in Fine Watchmaking for - Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Transcription

in Fine Watchmaking for
HAUTE HORLOGERIE JOURNALS
Introduction
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) takes pleasure in presenting this latest
Haute Horlogerie Journal - Trends and New Models, now a fixture in its calendar of
publications. Indeed, this third edition comes buoyed by the success of its two predecessors. No other publication offers an exhaustive and independently compiled
inventory of the emblematic timepieces proposed by the Maisons in the Fine Watch
segment. As in previous years, certain conditions have guided this selection, such as to
include a maximum of four watches per brand, and to feature only those which display
genuine innovation in their mechanisms or aesthetic. The result is a no less reliable view
of advances made in the industry as a whole.
Nomenclature is also respected. All the watches in these pages are presented with a list
of technical criteria which, as far as possible and based on available information, details
the same specifications for each. A brief commentary further describes the reasons for
their presence in this Haute Horlogerie Journal. In addition, each timepiece is assigned
to one of four categories, identified by a colour: Classic, Design, Technical and Women's.
All that remains is to wish you, the reader, the same enjoyment in browsing these pages
as their authors had in writing them!
CHRISTOPHE ROULET
FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE
Contents
INTRODUCTION
2013, a year of consolidation
4
Trends for 2014
6
Definition of a new model
8
BRANDS
A. Lange & Söhne 10
IWC 63
Andreas Strehler
12
Jaeger-LeCoultre 65
Armin Strom
13
Jaquet Droz
67
Audemars Piguet
14
JeanRichard
69
Baume & Mercier 16
Kari Voutilainen
70
Beat Haldimann
18
Louis Vuitton
71
Blancpain
19
Maîtres du Temps
73
Boucheron 21
MB&F
74
Bovet 1822
23
Montblanc
75
Breguet
25
Omega
77
Breitling
27
Panerai
79
Bulgari
29
Parmigiani Fleurier
80
Cartier
31
Patek Philippe
82
Chanel
33
Paul Gerber
83
Chopard 35
Perrelet
84
Christophe Claret
37
Piaget
85
Corum
39
Pita Barcelona
87
De Bethune
41
Ralph Lauren
88
de Grisogono
43
Richard Mille
89
DeLaneau
45
Roger Dubuis
91
F.P.Journe 47
Rolex
93
Franck Muller
48
Romain Gauthier
94
Girard-Perregaux
50
Speake-Marin
95
Glashütte Original
52
TAG Heuer
97
Greubel Forsey54
Ulysse Nardin
98
H. Moser & Cie
55
Urwerk
100
Harry Winston
56
Vacheron Constantin
101
Hautlence
58
Van Cleef & Arpels
103
Hermès 59
Vianney Halter
105
Hublot 61
Zenith
106
2013, a year of consolidation
BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET
To imagine that Swiss watchmaking could carry on indefinitely with the same
meteoric growth as in the post-subprime crisis era would have been unrealistic.
Gaining 1.9% on 2012, 2013 was thus a year of "consolidation at a high level" (to
borrow a favourite expression when describing these cycles), though no less another
record year for Swiss watch exports which climbed to CHF 20.8 billion. Unsurprisingly, mechanical watches performed best and confirmed they are the front-runners
of time measurement. Representing some 25% of Swiss watch exports in quantity,
they account for close to 80% in value.
A foreseeable result of anti-corruption campaigns, Hong Kong and China weighed most
heavily on business performance last year, with respectively a 5.6% drop for the Swiss
watch industry's main export market and a 12.5% decline for its third biggest destination. Not that we should paint too bleak a picture. In the first four months of 2014,
the value of watches that travelled beyond Swiss borders posted a healthy increase of
almost 4%. Furthermore, the sector continues to take on new staff, creating an additional
1,500 jobs in Switzerland last year and probably as many again in the rest of the world.
Investment is also holding up well. Far from battening down the hatches, Swiss watchmaking is showing its confidence in the future.
This optimism is more than confirmed by the prolificacy of the sector, which is echoed
in these pages. For more than a decade, watchmakers have invested in the necessary
means to give ever greater scope to their collections, a direction further reflected in the
importance these Manufactures now attach to research and development. The growing
4
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
number of fairs intended to showcase the measurement of time offers yet another illustration of this forward march. Baselworld was the only real reference until it was joined,
some three decades ago, by the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, soon followed by
the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, which celebrates its silver
jubilee in 2015. A trio that must now accommodate the numerous other events to have
taken up residence in Mexico City (SIAR), London (QP), Munich (Inhorgenta), Paris (Belles
Montres), New York (TimeCrafters) or Hong Kong (Watches&Wonders), to name but the
most prominent.
Another sure sign is the value of Swiss timepieces, which continues on its upward
trajectory. Latest figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reveal
that the average price of a Swiss watch climbed to $791 in 2013. This is 5.9% up on 2012
and a figure that has more than quadrupled over twenty years. What's more, these are
export values for a market which in retail prices represents some $60 billion. By way of
comparison, the average price of watches exported from China in 2013 amounted to $3
and $21 for watches leaving Hong Kong.
Some see this as evidence of Swiss watchmaking's quasi unshakeable grip on the mechanical watch market. A matter of tradition, one might say, but this is only part of the
picture. Switzerland continues to leave an indelible mark on the measurement of time,
and leave the competition far behind, because it has shown itself able to adapt to
economic forces and become that unique junction between cutting-edge industry and
high craftsmanship. An alchemy borne out by the statistics of these past years.
5
Trends for 2014
BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET
No timepiece can be too beautiful to adorn a feminine wrist. Particularly now that women
make no secret of their love affair with the tick-tock of a mechanical watch. Watchmakers
needed no further encouragement to offer them their heart's desire, some with métiers
d'art, which certain Maisons master with ever greater perfection, some with creations
as technically astounding, if not baffling, as their futuristic inventions for men - with
an added dash of poetry of course - and others with collections imagined for her and
her only. Granted, this isn't a recent trend but it is becoming more entrenched. As
though watchmakers were realising they had forgotten something along the way.
Or rather someone!
Colour is conspicuously absent from the year's new styles. Black is back, beefing up
the contours of one or other sports watch or underscoring the virtues of a crisp, clean
line, as evidenced by ultra-thin timepieces. Year after year, watchmakers take thinness
to new record levels in a high-wire performance that is widely considered one of the
purest expressions of horological classicism. Such wafer-like watches are an expression
of sovereign luxury and mechanical mastery on an infinitely small scale. Indeed, with
components that barely exceed a few tenths of a millimetre in height and tolerances
measured in microns, hence their greater fragility compared with more generously sized
movements, these timepieces demand a rare level of expertise.
The same virtuosity is apparent in movements, now prominently positioned in the
horological spectrum. No efforts are spared in transforming these calibres into veritable
6
works of art. Dials are banished to make way for skeletonwork that will reveal the calibre
in its most essential attire. This trend is such that certain watchmakers now develop their
movements with the possibility of a later skeletonised version in mind. In a similar vein,
where dials do exist they too have likely been cut away to allow a glimpse of the vital
organs beating beneath. Thus the mechanics of time become a symphony written in
harmonies of art and technique.
Where art, and its applications, are concerned, the preservation of rare and ancient
crafts is now rivalled by a novel approach intended to introduce new techniques or
established skills which have yet to express themselves on a horological canvas. Rose
petal marquetry, bulino engraving, glyptic and millefiori crystal are just some examples.
These artistic crafts offer infinite scope for expression to watchmakers who no longer
conceive their activity in purely mechanical terms, but with a touch of poetry that renders
each timepiece all the more desirable.
Which leaves us to contemplate watchmaking's most compelling complications.
Striking watches this year come to the fore with an array of complex and innovative
minute repeaters. Originally designed to give the time in all circumstances, in particular after candles had been snuffed for the night, these dignified representatives of
another age have been reimagined for today. A reminder that watchmaking can never
fully pay its debt to its illustrious precursors. A reminder too that often, the pupil
outshines the master.
7
Definition of a new model
The four main categories of new model
At the beginning of each year, watch companies present their new products. The
distinction has clearly been made between watches that bring variants or a new design
feature to an existing collection, and new watches that fall into one or more of the
following categories:
WOMEN’S
A WOMEN’S watch is defined by the
following characteristics:
The characteristics of a DESIGN watch are as
follows:
• A woman’s watch is not a derivative of an
existing man’s watch
• Particular focus on design to enhance legibility
of the watch’s functions, provides genuine
added value and becomes an identifying
feature of the watch
• Mechanical watches are designed for
women
• The watch is specifically intended as a
jewel-watch
CLASSIC
A CLASSIC watch belongs to either of the
following two categories:
• One which emphasises a restrained aesthetic
and a smooth, flowing line, and whose
movement is without grandes complications.
This classic watch has enduring elegance and
the forgotten charm of an indefinable era.
• One whose original launch dates back at
least twenty years and therefore qualifies as
"vintage". It is often an iconic model from a
brand that wishes to perpetuate a defining
style. Vintage constitutes an important trend
in contemporary watchmaking.
8
DESIGN
• Original movement, case or dial structure
• Contributions from the métiers d’art such
as engraving, gem-setting, enamelling,
marquetry, engine-turning, mosaic and
sculpting
• Skeleton and openworked movements as
an embellishing feature
TECHNICAL
The characteristics of a TECHNICAL watch
are as follows:
• Any new calibre or original module equipping a "simple" or complicated watch
• Use of innovative materials or materials not
generally used in watchmaking
• Advances in high-frequency technology
• Extra-thin movements
2014 Trends
and new models
Alphabetical order by brand
9
A. Lange & Söhne
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
1815
1815 TOURBILLON
In Socrates' day, an inscription on the fronton of the
Temple of Apollo in Delphi read μηδὲν ἄγαν (mêdén ágan)
or "nothing in excess". A belief shared by Ferdinand
A. Lange, founder of the eponymous brand whose
year of birth is also the name of this collection. The
watchmaker from Glashütte embraces this principle
in the new 1815, a reminder that the measurement
of time has one of its most beautiful expressions in
an authentically classic watch.
When the crown on this new timepiece by A. Lange
& Söhne is pulled out, the tourbillon cage instantly
stops and the seconds hand returns immediately to
zero so that time can be set to the exact second.
Such a feat is made possible by the interaction
between two patented mechanisms: the tourbillon
stop, a prowess in itself, and the zero-reset. This
unprecedented function is further accentuated by
the watch's classic design. Limited edition of 100 for
the platinum version.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L051.1 calibre,
188 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour
power reserve
10
TECHNICAL
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with stop
seconds
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, one-minute
tourbillon with patented stop seconds and patented
zero-reset mechanism
Dial | silver-coloured solid silver
Case | rose gold, 38.5 mm ø, 8.8 mm high, sapphire back
Case | platinum, 39.5 mm ø, 11.1 mm high, sapphire back
A. Lange & Söhne
TECHNICAL
GRAND LANGE 1 MOON PHASE
The new Lange 1 from the Glashütte manufacture
turns all eyes on the moon-phase display which
features prominently on the main dial. As always,
precision is uppermost hence the Lange engineers
have developed a mechanism which requires a
single correction of the moon-phase display every
122.6 years. By way of comparison, a classic moon
phase will already be one day out after two and a
half years.
power reserve
TECHNICAL
RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
"TERRALUNA"
Whichever side is on view, this new Richard Lange
timepiece elicits admiration. On the front, a regulator
dial showing hours, minutes and seconds, perpetual
calendar and power reserve in an aperture; on the
back, an orbital moon-phase display which also
shows the position of the Moon in relation to the
Earth and Sun… this is the art of watchmaking from
Saxony at its very finest. As ever, there are to be no
concessions regarding precision, with a movement
that includes a constant-force escapement.
787 parts, constant-force escapement with remontoir
spring, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels,
14-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with stop
seconds, power-reserve indicator, large date, moon phases
Functions | hours, minutes, regulator seconds, perpetual
calendar with large date, day, month and leap year in
apertures, power-reserve indicator, orbital moon-phase
display with day/night indication on the movement side
Case | rose gold, 41.0 mm ø, 9.5 mm high, sapphire back
Case | white gold, 45.5 mm ø, 16.5 mm high, sapphire back
11
Andreas Strehler
TECHNICAL
SAUTERELLE À LUNE PERPÉTUELLE
To quote the judges of the Prix Gaïa, Andreas
Strehler conceives his minimalist movements like
living organisms; no doubt why in 2013 he took the
award in the Artisanat-Creation category. Equally
remarkable, this timepiece offers the most precise
moon phase ever built. Comprising just four parts,
it requires manual adjustment of one day every
14,189.5383 years. Based on the Sauterelle, its
mechanism includes Strehler's patented remontoir
d’égalité which delivers a constant supply of energy
to the escapement.
Movement | hand-wound with patented remontoir
d’égalité, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 78-hour
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, "perpetual"
moon phases
Dial | silvered
Case | 18k rose gold, 41 x 47.20 mm, 10 mm high
12
Armin Strom
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
ONE WEEK SKELETON
This One Week Skeleton is the realisation of Armin
Strom's longstanding dream to produce a skeleton
entirely in-house, and in the grand tradition of
the brand. The barrel springs, visible through the
winding wheels, the blued small seconds hand,
and the bridge cut-outs echo earlier creations. The
decoration afforded to the parts combines aesthetic
with functionality in a rarely achieved harmony.
Limited edition of 50.
Movement | hand-wound ARM09-S skeleton calibre,
146 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power
reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds,
power-reserve indicator
Dial | sapphire with founded appliques
Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 43.40 mm ø,
13 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
13
Audemars Piguet
WOMEN'S
14
DESIGN
CLASSIC
ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH
Audemars Piguet applies the magic of precious
stones to a generously sized sports watch. Each of
the rose gold surfaces, from the case to the lugs,
from the dial to the bracelet, have been paved
with diamonds: a total of 966 stones, graded IF, for
approximately 7.9 carats. Driven by a mechanical
movement, this timepiece is resolutely aimed at the
growing ranks of women for whom a watch can be
nothing but mechanical.
Audemars Piguet trains the spotlight on the Royal
Oak Offshore, a style that made its debut in 1993.
This year it comes as six new versions with a more
sculpted aesthetic and a design that emphasises
technique, evidenced by the crown-guard, and the
ceramic crown and pushers. A variant of the Navy,
this model from the new collection stands out for
its royal blue dial and rubber strap with contrasting
orange chronograph hands.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 2385 calibre,
26.20 mm ø (11½ lines), 5.50 mm high, 304 parts, 21,600
vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 3126/3840
calibre, 29.92 mm ø (13¼ lines), 7.16 mm high, 365 parts,
21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute
counters
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute
counters
Dial | diamond-paved, silvered counters, applied hour
markers
Dial | blue with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, silvered
counters
Case | 18k rose gold, fully diamond-set, sapphire crystal,
screwed crown, diamond-set bracelet, water-resistant to
50 metres
Case | stainless steel, sapphire crystal and sapphire
back, screwed crown, black ceramic pushers, 42 mm ø,
water-resistant to 100 metres
Audemars Piguet
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER
ROYAL OAK CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON
This new style completes the line-up of Royal Oak
Offshore Diver watches, all water-resistant to 300
metres and protected by an anti-magnetic inner
case. Audemars Piguet presents a version whose
bezel, case, crown and pushers are in white ceramic,
even more resistant than black ceramic to make this
watch virtually impossible to scratch. The unidirectional bezel for calculating dive time is operated by
a screw-locked crown at 10 o'clock.
After a 2011 version with titanium case paired
with a bezel, crown and pusher in black ceramic,
the Tourbillon Royal Oak Concept GMT introduces a chromatic change. This new Royal Oak
Concept, which debuted in 2002 to celebrate the
30th anniversary of this iconic Audemars Piguet
watch, opts for a bezel, crown and pusher in white
ceramic. This same ceramic also finds its way into the
movement, in the hourglass-shaped upper bridge.
26.60 mm ø (11¾ lines), 4.26 mm high, 280 parts, 21,600
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture tourbillon 2930
calibre, 35.60 mm ø (15¾ lines), 9.90 mm high, 291 parts,
21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 10-day
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, centre seconds, date, dive time
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, 24-hour GMT
display, day/night indication, function selection
Dial | light silver-toned with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern,
light silver-toned inner rotating bezel with diving scale
and zone from 60 to 15 minutes in blue
Dial | openworked, tourbillon and GMT bridges in black
anodised aluminium, upper bridge in white ceramic,
inner bezel in black anodised aluminium
Case | white ceramic, sapphire crystal and sapphire back,
screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, titanium
links, water-resistant to 300 metres
Case | titanium, sapphire crystal and sapphire back,
screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, white
ceramic pusher, water-resistant to 100 metres
15
Baume & Mercier
WOMEN'S
16
DESIGN
CLIFTON 30 MM
CLIFTON CHRONOGRAPH
Introduced in 2013, the Clifton collection takes its
style cue from a 1950s watch. Joining the range this
year are models with a 30 mm case. The silver-toned
dial displays the date in an aperture. Gold-toned
numerals and hour markers, along with the steel link
bracelet, make this a lively and at the same time
classic design.
A new addition to the Clifton family, this chronograph is driven by a Swiss-made, self-winding
mechanical movement with an established
reputation as a hard-wearing, reliable calibre. As
well as the chronograph indications, day and date
are displayed in a double aperture. Elegant and
cosmopolitan, this is a precision timepiece on which
time has no hold.
Movement | self-winding ETA 2671 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve
Movement | self-winding ETA 7750 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde data
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph
Dial | mother-of-pearl, diamond hour markers (0.06 carat)
Dial | satin-finish silver sunburst and snailed
Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 30 mm ø, 9.94 mm
high, water-resistant to 50 metres
Baume & Mercier
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
CLIFTON RETROGRADE DATE
CLIFTON 1892 FLYING TOURBILLON
The star of the 2014 launches, this watch confirms
Baume & Mercier's determination to give horophiles
a complication watch that is both functional and
affordable. The generous size leaves ample room
for hours, minutes and seconds, while the harmonious arrangement of the different indications adds
to legibility.
An exceptional timepiece in a limited edition of
30, this watch is driven by a hand-wound calibre,
regulated by a flying tourbillon and produced by
Manufacture ValFleurier. Superlative finishing and
the fact that each movement is assembled from
start to finish by the same watchmaker are signs
of masterful craftsmanship. Known for its complex
execution, the flying tourbillon allows a clear view
of its cage as it rotates once a minute, unobstructed
by any bridge.
Movement | self-winding SOPROD 9094 calibre, 28,800
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture ValFleurier P591
tourbillon calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day, retrograde
date, power-reserve indicator
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, flying
tourbillon
Dial | satin-finish silver sunburst
Dial | silvered opaline
Case | round, 18k red gold, sapphire back, 45.5 mm ø,
17
Beat Haldimann
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
H3 CENTRAL FLYING TOURBILLON AND
MINUTE REPEATER
True to form, Beat Haldimann confounds expectations with the H3, the first watch to combine a
central flying tourbillon, a feat in itself, with a minute
repeater. There is to be no "reading" the time - hands
are conspicuous by their absence. Instead, hours
and minutes are counted in chimes. In an additional
refinement, an auxiliary dial on the back allows the
wearer to correctly set the repeater mechanism and
thus rest assured that the chiming melody corresponds to the time that governs our days.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture H.Zen-C calibre,
flying tourbillon with three drums, 18,000 vibrations/hour
frequency
Functions | central one-minute flying tourbillon, minute
repeater, auxiliary dial for setting the time on the back
Dial | black
Case | platinum, sapphire back, 39 or 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres
18
Blancpain
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
VILLERET CARROUSEL MOON PHASES
VILLERET 8-DAY PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Blancpain's two iconic complications are brought
together for the first time, and in the splendid
company of a Grand Feu enamel dial. Long
overshadowed by the tourbillon, Blancpain restored
the carrousel to the spotlight in 2008 when it
unveiled the first ever flying carrousel to perform
a one-minute rotation. This mechanical prowess
returns alongside a moon-phase complication.
A serpentine hand points to the date around the
circumference of the dial.
This perpetual calendar displays its functions with a
pleasing symmetry that recalls the pocket watches
of days gone by. Blancpain's new self-winding
movement keeps track of the varying lengths of
the month and of leap years without any need
for adjustment until 2100. Calendar indications
and moon phases are easily adjusted by means
of correctors which, concealed under the lugs, are
invisible on the wrist.
Movement | self-winding 225L calibre, 281 parts,
Movement | self-winding 5939A calibre, 379 parts,
32 mm ø, 7.25 mm high, 192-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute flying carrousel,
date
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 8-day perpetual calendar, with date, day, month and leap year
indication, moon phases
Dial | white Grand Feu enamel
Dial | Grand Feu enamel
Case | 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 12.74 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres
Case | 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 13.5 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
19
Blancpain
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
VILLERET 12-DAY ONE-MINUTE FLYING
TOURBILLON
Twenty-five years after the launch of Calibre 25,
then the first and thinnest flying tourbillon on
a self-winding wristwatch, Blancpain returns to
this complication which it endows with greater
autonomy. A single barrel guarantees the exceptional 12-day power reserve of this self-winding
tourbillon, whose cage has been enlarged to allow a
clear view of the balance and escape wheel design.
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
BATHYSCAPHE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
New to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection,
this flyback chronograph resets and instantly restarts
at the push of a button. The new mechanism
incorporates a silicon balance spring whose antimagnetic properties dispense with the need for a
Faraday cage.
Movement | self-winding F385 calibre, 36,000 vibrations/
hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Movement | self-winding 242 calibre, 243 parts, 30.60 mm ø
6.10 mm high, 288-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon
Case | platinum, 42 mm ø, 11.65 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
20
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback
chronograph, date
Dial | black
Case | black ceramic, 43.60 mm ø, 15.25 mm high, unidirectional black ceramic bezel with ceramic insert and
Liquidmetal® hour markers, water-resistant to 300 metres
Boucheron
DESIGN
DESIGN
REFLET L
ÉPURE OURSIN
Boucheron returns to one of its iconic watches,
first imagined in 1947. In this new, larger interpretation, delicately polished vertical gadroons soften
the geometric case. The hour marker at 12 on the
white dial is symbolised by a blue sapphire. A selfwinding mechanical movement drives the hour and
minute hands.
Boucheron gives another lesson in rare crafts with
its Épure d'Art watches. Timekeeping functions,
courtesy of a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture calibre,
are pared to the strict essential, leaving pride of
place to gold and marquetry, a work reminiscent
of Florentine cabinets of the Renaissance. The
sea-urchin dial of this Épure d’Art Oursin is paved
with white diamonds, blue sapphires and lacquered
gold cabochons.
Movement | self-winding Girard-Perregaux Manufacture GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes
Movement | self-winding
Dial | white, blue sapphire cabochon
Case | rectangular, steel, 42 x 24 mm
Dial | sea-urchin design composed of six double
gadroons, set with diamonds and 19 lacquered white
gold cabochons in three different sizes in a bezel
setting. The rest of the sea-urchin is set with sapphires
in a gradient of blue. Total of 355 stones
Case | 18k white gold, non gem-set, sapphire back,
41 mm ø, 11.90 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
21
Boucheron
DESIGN
ÉPURE D'ART FLEUR DE JOUR
This watch from the Épure d’Art collection is a
composition of light and structure, thanks to
the flower that fills its dial. Each petal is crafted
from white mother-of-pearl and set on a bed of
diamonds, with more diamonds around the bezel.
The finished piece is a shimmering celebration of
the métiers d'art.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture Girard-Perregaux
GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Dial | marquetry of white mother-of-pearl on a bed
of diamonds. The mother-of-pearl is positioned at
different angles to catch the light and create an impression of volume
Case | 18k white gold, diamonds, sapphire back, 41 mm ø,
11.90 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres
22
Bovet 1822
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
RÉCITAL 12 « MONSIEUR DIMIER »
AMADEO FLEURIER TOURBILLON VIRTUOSO III
Bovet 1822 presents its first ever movement to be
entirely designed and manufactured in-house and
which is not regulated by a tourbillon. A full five years
of development preceded its debut inside the Recital
12 Monsieur Dimier where the magic of this calibre is
revealed, in particular the wheels, balance and triple
seconds hand. Two symmetrical openings allow a
view of the power reserve and a segment of the barrel
which guarantees seven days of autonomy. Limited
edition of 150 for each colour of the gold case.
Bovet 1822 completes its collection of "useful"
grandes complications with this Virtuoso III whose
timekeeping functions, rendered perfectly legible
on both sides by reverse hand-fitting, combine with
a retrograde perpetual calendar, all regulated by a
one-minute tourbillon. The movement finish is on a
par with these superlative mechanics. Every surface
of the bridges and plates has been hand-engraved
with the Fleurier pattern, a detail collectors will particularly appreciate. Limited edition of 39 for each
colour of the gold case.
Movement | hand-wound openworked Virtuoso II
calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power
reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve
Dial | skeleton, black or white lacquer for the offset hours
and minutes
Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 9.10 mm
Movement | hand-wound Virtuoso III tourbillon calibre,
656 parts, 38 mm ø, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency,
5-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,
day, month, retrograde date, leap year cycle indicator,
power-reserve indicator, reverse hand-fitting
Dial | lacquered white or black, openworked
Case | convertible Amadeo with secret opening, 18k red
or white gold, 46 mm ø, 18.30 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
23
Bovet 1822
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
BOVET BY PININFARINA "SERGIO"
AMADEO FLEURIER 36 "MISS AUDREY"
The Bovet by Pininfarina collection made its
debut in 2010 at the same time as the convertible
Amadeo case, and has already encompassed three
tourbillons (Ottanta, Ottantadue, Ottantatre) and
a chronograph (Cambiano). This latest addition
takes inspiration from the bodywork of the "Sergio"
Ferrari, designed by Italy's renowned Pininfarina
design company and named in honour of Sergio
Pininfarina who chaired the family firm for 40 years.
The dial of this split-seconds chronograph offers
ideal legibility with the additional feature of four
recessed areas. Limited edition of 250.
The Amadeo Fleurier collection welcomes the arrival
of a 36 mm diameter model in steel. Introduced in
2010 across the range, the Amadeo case converts
effortlessly from a wristwatch to a table clock or a
pendant watch, without any need for tools. The
Amadeo system was further miniaturised for the
"Miss Audrey" watch without compromising its
perfect functioning. The dial of this new timepiece
comes to life in pastel shades of turquoise or purple.
Movement | self-winding 13BA08-R calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds
chronograph, 30-minute counter, power-reserve
indicator
Dial | anthracite, black, blue or rhodium-plated
Case | convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, sapphire
back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
24
DESIGN
Movement | self-winding 11BA13 calibre, 26 mm ø,
Dial | guilloché and lacquered with four diamond hourmarkers
Case | convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, bezel set
with 60 round diamonds (0.68 carat), bow set with 43
round diamonds (0.21 carat), 36 mm ø, 11.25 mm high,
Breguet
DESIGN
CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON PERPETUAL
CALENDAR 3797
Joining the perpetual calendars already in the
Classique collection, this new version is fitted with
the Calibre 3797 which emphasises intuitive reading
of the many timekeeping and calendar indications.
To achieve this legibility, Breguet has played on
different depths, lifting the hours and minutes
chapter to the foreground in order to highlight this
essential display. A second look takes in each of the
remaining indications.
WOMEN'S
CLASSIC
CLASSIQUE DAME 9068
From its very beginnings, Breguet has taken care to
imagine timepieces specifically for women. Rather
than simply adding precious gems to existing
designs for men, in Breguet's day the company was
already crafting mechanical watches for its female
admirers. Carrying on in this vein, its collections
continue to propose timepieces of similar ilk, with
qualities such as a slender case, uncluttered dial or
delicate gem-setting. The Classique Dame 9068 is
a perfect example.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 558QP2 calibre,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the
tourbillon axis, perpetual calendar with day, month, leap
year and retrograde date
Dial | 18k rose gold, silvered and hand-guilloché with
four different patterns
Case | 18k rose gold, fluted caseband, sapphire back,
41 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 591A calibre,
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial | 18k gold, silvered and hand-guilloché
Case | 18k white gold, fluted caseband, bezel and lugs
set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.606 carat), sapphire
back, 33.50 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
25
Breguet
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
LES VOLANTS DE LA REINE
Breguet's watchmakers have frequently looked to
details from period costumes when creating their
jewellery timepieces for women. This year the
Manufacture captures in a jewelled watch the charm
of the bows and frills that adorned the gowns worn
by Queen Marie-Antoinette of France, Breguet's
first female customer. Les Volants de la Reine is a
fitting tribute to such finery.
Movement | self-winding 586 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/
Dial | natural mother-of-pearl set with 20 brilliant-cut
diamonds (0.02 carat)
Case | 18k white gold, bezel and caseband set with 146
brilliant-cut diamonds (2.848 carats), inner bezel set with
66 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.132 carat), frills set with 193
brilliant-cut diamonds (1.07 carats) in a snow setting,
11 baguette diamonds (0.35 carat) and 2 cushion-cut
sapphires (0.59 carat), crown set with a briolette diamond
(0.28 carat), lugs set with 61 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.478
carat) in a snow setting, sapphire back, 33 x 24.95 mm
26
Breitling
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
CHRONOMAT 44 AIRBORNE
BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04
Breitling marks the 30th anniversary of its Chronomat
with a special series that combines a technical look
with the performance professional users expect.
In the early 1980s, the company learned that the
Italian airforce's aerobatics team, Frecce Tricolori,
was inviting proposals for its official watch. Breitling
responded with a completely new aviation chronograph that was tailor-made to meet pilots' needs.
The elite team was won over by this original,
functional and stylish timepiece, and in 1983 the
Frecce Tricolori official watch took to the skies. The
following year, the Chronomat joined the brand's
regular collection.
"Bentley" for the quintessential British car. "GMT"
for the innovative dual time-zone adjustment
system. "Light Body" for the featherweight titanium
case. "B04" for the Manufacture calibre, entirely
developed and produced in the Breitling workshops.
A model of functionality, this travel chronograph is
distinguished by its ease of use: simply pull out the
crown and turn it forwards or backwards to adjust
the time zone in one-hour increments without losing
any precision in minutes. The date automatically
adjusts to local time, in both directions.
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture
Breitling 01 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second
chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date,
tachymeter scale on the inner bezel
second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, 24 time
zones on the ratcheted rotating bezel
Dial | Onyx Black or Sierra Silver
Case | steel, ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel,
41 or 44 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres (41 mm) or
500 metres (44 mm)
Dial | Royal Ebony or Tungsten
Case | titanium, sapphire back, 49 mm ø, water-resistant
to 100 metres
27
Breitling
CLASSIC
NAVITIMER GMT
Breitling enters a new chapter in the life of its famed
Navitimer aviation chronograph with a reinterpretation of the classic watch in a larger size, and a
travel version designed for ease of use. Proposed
with an impressive 48 mm diameter, this new GMT
model is equipped with the B04 calibre. The second
time zone is set forwards or backwards simply by
turning the crown, without losing track of minutes or
24-hour local time. The date automatically follows.
Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, tachymeter scale, slide rule on the rotating bezel
Dial | black or Mercury Silver
Case | steel or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 48 mm ø,
28
Bulgari
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
LUCEA
AMMIRAGLIO DEL TEMPO
Bulgari illuminates a woman's wrist with Lucea
whose name is derived from lux and luce, the Latin
and Italian words for "light". This new creation
commands admiration with an ageless elegance
coloured by the brand's style signatures. A round
case and supple construction are matched by the
Serpenti-inspired bracelet. Hinting at Bulgari's
jewellery origins, a warm pink cabochon gem
clinches the crown, adorned in its centre with a
solitaire diamond. Indeed, Lucea has no need for
further embellishment; in its most pared-down
version, it is already a classic.
Four hammers and gongs, a minute repeater and
Westminster chimes, and still the inventory of
functions proposed by Ammiraglio del Tempo goes
on, as this new timepiece also equips its sophisticated striking mechanism with an innovative
repeater slide. In addition, this new grande
complication from Bulgari is presented with a
detent escapement and a constant-force device, a
regulating organ which represents the highest level
of complexity in watchmaking. Limited edition of
20 in 18k rose gold and limited edition of 10 in 18k
white gold.
Movement | self-winding B77calibre, 77 parts , 26.20 mm ø,
3.60 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour
power reserve
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture calibre with detent
escapement, constant-force device and minute repeater,
516 parts, 38 mm ø, 9.38 mm high, 14,400 vibrations/hour
frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Dial | black, sunray guilloché
Case | steel, 18k rose gold bezel, 18k rose gold crown
with a pink cabochon stone set with a diamond, bracelet
with alternating 18k rose gold and steel links, 33 mm ø,
Functions | hours, minutes, Westminster chimes minute
repeater with four hammers and gongs
Dial | made from a gold plate with openings to show the
detent escapement, hammers and gongs
Case | 18k rose or white gold, repeater slide at 7 o'clock,
sapphire back, 50 mm ø, 14.09 mm high
29
Bulgari
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
DIVA
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON
The Diva watch is proud to proclaim its origins in the
jewelled values that founded the House of Bulgari. A
reference to the golden age of silver-screen legends,
it embodies the Dolce Vita days when Bulgari was
inseparable from the world of film. The collection
embraces multiple combinations of stones in every
colour. The epitome of feminine charm, it plays on
the modular geometric designs explored in the
jewellery collection of the same name.
Bulgari has created nothing less than the world's
thinnest flying tourbillon watch in a movement
that measures a mere 1.95 mm high. Innovative
solutions made possible this quest for ultimate
thinness. Firstly, ball bearings are used to pivot
the moving parts. The regulator assembly has also
been omitted to gain vital millimetres. Timing is
instead adjusted directly on the balance wheel.
The barrel is held in position and guided by three
peripheral ball bearings. This solution allowed
Bulgari to double the height of the mainspring for
a power reserve of 55 hours.
Movement | quartz
Dial | white mother-of-pearl
Case | 18k rose gold case and bracelet, 286 brilliant-cut
diamonds (5.67 carats), 8 rubellites and 8 amethysts
30
TECHNICAL
Movement | extra-thin, hand-wound Manufacture Finissimo calibre, 249 parts, 32.60 mm ø, 1.95 mm high,
Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon
Dial | polished black lacquer
Case | platinum, 40 mm ø, 5 mm high
Cartier
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROCALENDAIRE
Carrying on from the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Astrotourbillon, this watch transforms
its dial into an amphitheatre where a perpetual
calendar takes centre-stage. Set out in concentric
tiers, this innovative display resolves many of the
difficulties inherent in displaying simultaneously
and legibly the month, day and date, and leap or
ordinary year. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, the
Astrocalendaire is driven by Cartier's in-house 9459
MC calibre with flying tourbillon.
DESIGN
BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER FLORAL
MARQUETRY PARROT
This limited edition of 20 brings to light a craft
never before seen in watchmaking: floral marquetry.
Authentic, coloured flower petals are meticulously cut
into the desired shape using a marquetry scroll saw.
These tiny pieces become a living, precious material, here transformed into the parrot's exuberant
plumage. Onyx, emerald, diamonds and miniature
painting complete this stunningly lifelike tableau.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 9459 MC calibre,
tourbillon, perpetual calendar, 21,600 vibrations/hour
frequency, 50-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Movement | self-winding Cartier 049 calibre
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, perpetual
calendar with circular display
Dial | 18k rhodium-plated white gold and 18k rose gold,
floral and onyx marquetry, emerald eye
Dial | silvered
Case | round, 18k rhodium-plated white gold, 124 round
diamonds (1.80 carats), crown set with a cabochon blue
sapphire, 42 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to
30 metres
Case | round, platinum, sapphire back, 45 mm ø,
31
Cartier
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER
BALLON BLANC DE CARTIER
Introduced in 2010, the Calibre de Cartier now lends
itself to a dive version that is water-resistant to 300
metres. Each watch complies with ISO 6425 requirements and has been tested according to the eight
obligatory criteria for a dive watch as prescribed by
this international standard. Equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel, it is also one of the thinnest
mechanical dive watches on the market.
The coveted Ballon de Cartier case reinvents itself
as a sumptuous jewel-watch. The pebble shape
remains true to the Ballon spirit, while the Roman
numerals make a small detour from their circular
route to make room for a solitaire diamond. The
sinuous white gold bracelet is set with diamonds
for a total of 9.35 carats.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture 1904 MC calibre,
25.6 mm ø, 4 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Dial | black, partially snailed
Case | round, rhodium-plated white gold, 18k rose gold,
unidirectional bezel in 18k rose gold coated with ADLC,
crown set with a facetted sapphire, 42 mm ø, 11 mm high,
32
Movement | Cartier 056 quartz calibre
Dial | mother-of-pearl, flinqué
Case | round, 18k rose gold set with diamonds (0.70 carat),
24 mm ø, crown set with a diamond (0.20 carat), waterresistant to 30 metres
Chanel
WOMEN'S
TECHNICAL
TECHNICAL
J12 - 365
J12 MOONPHASE
While its spirit is unchanged, recognisable in the
round case, serrated bezel, Arabic numerals and
crown-guard, this new J12 has refined its look to
reflect a distinctly feminine sensibility. Notable
features include the smaller, 36.5 mm diameter
(hence the name), the diamonds which move from
crown to bezel, and the slender case which accommodates a self-winding movement. A serious
alternative to the original J12 with its more sportsstyled 38 mm case. Four of the eight renditions
have a case in 18k beige gold, an exclusive alloy
developed by Chanel.
Unlike the conventional moon phase complication
which is displayed in an aperture, moon phases on
the J12 Moonphase come to life on a deep blue
aventurine disc that is spangled like a summer night
sky. Positioned at 6 o'clock, it shows the four main
phases of the moon: new moon, first quarter, full
moon, last quarter. A serpentine hand in polished
steel indicates the current phase while an additional
hand points to the date.
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power
reserve
reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand,
moon phases
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date by hand
Dial | guilloché, black or opaline
Dial | satin-finish opaline or black (without diamonds),
guilloché opaline or black (63 diamonds on the dial, 54
diamonds on the bezel), aventurine moon-phase dial
Case | 18k beige gold, 36.50 mm ø, water-resistant to
100 metres
Case | case and bracelet in black or white high-tech
ceramic, 38 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres
33
Chanel
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ WITH
EMBROIDERED CAMELLIA
Since 1924, Maison Lesage has created elaborate
embroidery embellishments for haute couture and
ready-to-wear, each of which requires hours of work
and consummate expertise. Now and for the first
time, this talent lends itself to watch dials. Each
embroidered pattern is unique and can only be
created through precise and meticulous gestures.
The dial of this watch has been hand-stitched with
a camellia, Gabrielle Chanel's favourite flower,
using coloured silks and the "needlepoint painting"
technique. Limited edition of 18.
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ GOLD CAMELLIA
The Mademoiselle Privé jewellery watch collection
spotlights the symbols which Gabrielle Chanel
most cherished, and the objects that were a part
of her life: a glimpse of Mademoiselle in private.
Once again this year, Chanel uses this collection
to pay homage to the métiers d’art, specifically
engraving and chasing. Accordingly, the flowers
that adorn the gem-set dial of this Gold Camellia
watch are crafted from hand-polished, handengraved 23k yellow gold.
reserve
reserve
Dial | black, embroidered
Dial | mat black with 5 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.11 carat)
and 5 navette-cut yellow sapphires (0.09 carat), 23k gold
engraved camellias
Case | 18k white gold set with 562 brilliant-cut diamonds
(3.07 carats), 37.50 mm ø, 9.84 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
Case | 18k white gold, bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut
diamonds (1 carat), 37.50 mm ø, 9.85 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres
34
Chopard
CLASSIC
GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE
CHRONO
In 2014 and for the seventh time in a row, Chopard
was the official timekeeper and sponsor of the
Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, an event which
Chopard traditionally celebrates with the issue of
an original timepiece. This year the Maison has
chosen to develop a complete new collection, the
centrepiece of which is the Grand Prix de Monaco
Historique Chrono. This model, with its revisited
design and larger, mat titanium case, a new yellow
colour scheme and perforated strap, is expressly
designed for the racing circuit and as a tribute to
vintage Formula 1.
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding chronograph,
37.20 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date in an
aperture, chronograph with yellow centre seconds hand,
30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Dial | silvered, snailed
Case | beadblasted titanium, steel bezel with black
aluminium insert, 44.5 mm ø, 13.9 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
HAPPY SPORT TOURBILLON JOAILLERIE
Chopard introduced its Happy Sport, matching steel
with diamonds, in 1993. The first mechanically-driven
version came in 2013 to mark the 20th anniversary
of the collection. One year later, the Manufacture
takes another step forward with the addition of a
one-minute tourbillon which draws energy from
Chopard's very own Quattro technology, thus
ensuring a full nine days of power reserve. Certified
by the Poinçon de Genève, this Happy Sport
Tourbillon resides in a jewelled case as a reminder of
the company's gemmological expertise.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 02.16-L
calibre with COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, 29.70 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour
frequency, Quattro four-barrel technology delivering a
9-day power reserve
one-minute tourbillon
Dial | snow-set diamonds, diamonds on the tourbillon
bridge, 7 moving diamonds
Case | 18k white gold with diamonds, bezel set with
36 trapeze-cut diamonds, crown set with baguette
diamonds and one briolette diamond, sapphire back,
35
Chopard
TECHNICAL
L.U.C TOURBILLON QF FAIRMINED
L.U.C 1963
This nine-day tourbillon is the first timepiece for
which Chopard has worked with Fairmined gold, a
certification which guarantees the gold was mined
in a responsible way and that the miners receive fair
payment for their work, thus proving that this precious
metal can be sustainably extracted. The watch trains
the spotlight on the ongoing partnership between
Chopard and Alliance for Responsible Mining, the
South American NGO behind the Fairmined standard.
It has also been submitted to testing by the Fleurier
Quality Foundation. This independent body, which
marks its 10th anniversary in 2014, is unique in the
scope of its testing and certification is reputed extremely difficult to obtain. Limited edition of 25.
To mark the milestone of the Scheufele family's
50th anniversary at the head of Chopard, the
Manufacture presents the L.U.C 1963, a watch with
great emotional content and a natural descendant
of the great chronometers of the past. It comes as
a tribute to watchmaking's technical and aesthetic
genius, and to the high-precision timing to which
Chopard remains committed. Indeed, Chopard
submits many of its chronometers for certification
by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres
(COSC) and is one of the main beneficiaries of the
prestigious Poinçon de Genève. The L.U.C 1963
has been certified by both these bodies. Limited
edition of 50 in rose gold and limited edition of 50
in platinum.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 02.13-L1
calibre with COSC, Poinçon de Genève and Qualité
Fleurier certification, 224 parts, 29.70 mm ø, 6.10 mm
high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, Quattro fourbarrel technology delivering a 9-day power reserve
tourbillon, power-reserve indicator
36
CLASSIC
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 63.01-L
calibre, COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, 38
mm ø, 5.50 mm high, 21’600 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial | ruthenium, satin-brushed sunray
Dial | white, porcelain-type
Case | 18k Fairmined gold, sapphire back, 43 mm ø,
Case | 18k rose gold or platinum, sapphire back, 44 mm ø,
Christophe Claret
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
TECHNICAL
POKER
MARGOT
Another stroke of technical genius in the vein of the
21 Blackjack and Baccara watches, Poker contains a
full pack of 52 cards inside its 45 mm case so that
three players can indulge in an authentic game of
Texas Hold'em. It can propose 32,768 card combinations or 98,304 game plays for three players.
True to his reputation as a master of striking
watches, Christophe Claret has incorporated his
patented cathedral gong which sounds each time
a player presses either the flop or turn/river pusher.
Four limited editions of 20.
Margot is Christophe Claret's first ever watch
especially for women, and answers the eternal
question "does he love me?" with petals plucked
from a daisy. This unprecedented complication,
for which a patent has been filed, is reinforced by
chimes. A single press of a pusher and one, perhaps
two, petals disappear beneath the dial until a verdict
is reached. He loves me… a little, a lot, passionately, madly… or not at all. This mechanical magic
is brought to light by an association of precious
stones, mother-of-pearl and gold. Four limited
editions of 20.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture EMT17 calibre,
731 parts, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Movement | self-winding Manufacture PCK05 calibre,
665 parts, two barrels, four ball bearings including
one double, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, Texas Hold'em poker game
with chime, roulette wheel, patented cathedral gong
Dial | nickel silver, skeletonised card pattern
Case | 18k white gold and grade 5 titanium with black
PVD treatment, 45 mm ø, 15.95 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
Functions | hours, minutes, "loves me, loves me not"
game, "colours of love" on the rotor
Dial | blue mother-of-pearl, white gold prong set with
pear-cut diamonds, Christophe Claret logo in white
gold, daisy petals in white lacquer
Case | white gold (palladium alloy) with 68 baguette
diamonds (5.20 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds (3
carats), one hexagonal or snow-set diamond between
the lugs, 42.50 mm ø, 14.52 mm high, water-resistant to
30 metres
37
Christophe Claret
TECHNICAL
MAESTOSO
This new timepiece, which is equipped with a traditional pivoted detent escapement and constant
force, bears testimony to an important aspect of
horological history. This type of detent escapement first appeared in the eighteenth century and
was a common feature of marine chronometers. It
is considered as the quintessence of chronometric
precision. Transposing such an escapement to a
wristwatch is no small feat which Christophe Claret
has achieved thanks to a series of complex technical
solutions, three of which are patented. Maestoso's
two barrels are each fitted with two superimposed
springs. They release the energy required by the
escapement while optimising the watch's power
reserve of more than 80 hours. Three limited
editions of 20.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture DTC07 calibre,
301 parts, 14,400 vibrations/hour frequency, two parallelmounted barrels each with two springs, 80-hour power
reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, constant-force indication
Case | white gold and grade 5 titanium with anthracite
PVD treatment, 44 mm ø, 13.59 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
38
Corum
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 SQUELETTE
ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE DOUBLE TOURBILLON
Inside the grade 5 titanium case of the Admiral's
Cup AC-One 45 Squelette beats the self-winding
CO 082 calibre with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour. This is the first time that the movement,
which has a 42-hour power reserve, appears in a
fully skeletonised construction with resolutely
contemporary finishes. The absence of a dial draws
the eye further into these mechanical depths while
the transparent date disc adds to the visual effect.
A new movement makes its debut in the stylishly
sporting Admiral's Cup: the hand-wound CO 1008
calibre. This mechanism features a double tourbillon
as well as a retrograde date and an ingenious
time-adjustment system. A simple press on the
crown-pusher brings the minute hand instantly to
the twelfth hour numeral so it can be set at the
precise time, up to five minutes before and after
a full hour. This CO 1008 calibre resides inside the
immediately recognisable twelve-sided case of the
Admiral's Cup, imagined in 1960 and redesigned
in 2013.
Movement | hand-wound CO 1008 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Movement | self-winding skeleton CO 082 calibre,
Functions | hours, minutes, retrograde date by hand,
double tourbillon
Functions | hours, minutes, date
Dial | anthracite brass with "split pomegranate" pattern,
nautical pennants stamped on the inner bezel
Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 45 mm ø,
Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 45 mm ø,
39
Corum
DESIGN
40
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
GOLDEN BRIDGE DRAGON
FEATHER WATCH
Corum introduces the Golden Bridge Dragon to
its Bridge collection. The now famous baguette
movement merges with a gold sculpture of a dragon
which wraps itself around the calibre. It takes a full
two weeks to sculpt each of these fabulous creatures
in stunningly realistic detail.
The height of fashion in the nineteenth century,
plumasserie (feather ornaments) is no less a symbol
of elegance today. Corum chose this métier d'art
for two limited-edition timepieces whose dials are
decorated with peacock feathers. On one of the
two editions, limited to 25 pieces, the dial is framed
by 120 round diamonds. The classically sober outline
of the case is borrowed from a 1970s Corum design,
as are the skeleton dauphine hour and minute hands
which are driven by a self-winding CO 082 movement.
Movement | hand-wound CO 113 baguette calibre,
Movement | self-winding CO 082 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Dial | no dial, sculpted gold dragon around the baguette
movement
Dial | brass, 120 round diamonds (0.71 carat) and
peacock feather
Case | titanium or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 34 x 51 mm,
Case | 18k 5N red gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø,
De Bethune
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
DB28 DIGITALE
DB29 MAXICHRONO TOURBILLON
Finely-crafted, eighteenth-century timepieces such as
French Directoire clocks have never ceased to inspire
De Bethune. The DB28 Digitale, whose mechanism
powers multiple display modes - digital jumping
hours, analogue minutes and spherical moon phases,
precise to one day every 1,112 years - embodies a
contemporary vision of that era's aesthetic. The dial,
which has been hand-guilloché with a barleycorn
motif, the spherical moon and star-studded sky
are all classical references whose arrangement and
execution make a very modern statement.
The five central hands on this chronograph watch
serve to make elapsed times easier to read than on
a conventional chronograph display. An important
element of the watch's identity, they follow the
curves of the dial. They are each crafted from
blued steel, except for the chronograph minute
hand which is in rose gold. Seconds and minutes
are measured on a scale with 60 graduations, hours
on a scale of 24. All five hands are mounted on
co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system requiring
immense technical expertise.
Movement | hand-wound DB2144 calibre, 329 parts,
30 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power
reserve
Functions | jumping hours in an aperture, analogue
minutes on a rotating silvered disc, spherical moon
phases in the centre
Dial | silvered, hand-guilloché with a barleycorn pattern,
De Bethune starry sky in blued and polished grade 5
titanium, encrusted with white gold stars
Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 43 mm ø or
45 mm with the titanium bezel
Movement | hand-wound CB2039 calibre, 410 parts,
36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph with
three central hands, concentric circular second, minute
and hour counters, De Bethune silicon/titanium tourbillon
with 30-second indication on the movement side
Dial | silvered, curved structure on different levels
Case | 5N rose gold, 5N rose gold cover with invisible
hinge, sapphire back, 46 mm ø, 11.70 mm high
41
De Bethune
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
DREAM WATCH 5.2
The design of Dream Watch 5.2 owes much to that
of its predecessors, whose forms it revisits. The
cambered delta shape that is a visual hallmark of
De Bethune is present in the bridge, borrowed
from Dream Watch 1. The case of Dream Watch 4
is also in evidence, with taut lines pulling against
gentle curves. Ultimately, Dream Watch 5.2 is the
product of ongoing research into shapes, colours
and materials. This version comes cloaked in
blackened zirconium, a hard-wearing yet lightweight
metal whose black oxidised colour is impervious to
humidity and air.
Movement | hand-wound DB2144 calibre, 355 parts,
30 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power
reserve
Functions | jumping hours in an aperture, analogue
minutes on a rotating disc, spherical moon phases in
the centre
Dial | De Bethune spherical moon phases in blued steel
and palladium in the centre
Case | polished and blackened zirconium delta curve,
7.5 cm3
42
de Grisogono
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
ALLEGRA
GRAPPOLI
Originally a collection of jewellery, Allegra is now
also a watch, or more exactly a jewel that gives
the time. Indeed, this particular Allegra is as much
bracelet as timepiece, and a nod to the day when
the stars of the silver screen wore precious watches
threaded onto cords. De Grisogono has imagined
this new collection as a reminder of that golden era.
More than time, Allegra promises to bring joy to
women who live life in an allegretto mode.
Clusters of briolette-cut precious stones distinguish the watches in the Grappoli collection by de
Grisogono. They have been set around the case in
such a way that they quiver with the movements
of the wearer's wrist. The same stones in a snow
setting adorn dial and bezel to create an expanse
of precious colour, with contrast created by the
different volumes.
Movement | quartz
Dial | lacquered (black or white) or mother-of-pearl (pink,
orange, red or black)
Case | steel with PVD treatment or gold (rose or white,
with or without gems), gem-set bezel (diamonds,
emeralds, spinels, tsavorites, sapphires or amethysts),
custom-fit strap made from 20 woven leather cords in
different colours
Movement | quartz
Dial | orange or blue sapphires, emeralds or amethysts
Case | gold, briolette-cut precious stones coordinating
with the dial
43
de Grisogono
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
MECCANICO DG
With its patented analogue and mechanical-digital
dual display for two time zones, the Meccanico dG
brings a completely new concept to mechanical
fine watchmaking. Premiered in 2008, it returns this
year in a revolutionary carbon-fibre case that stores
light to then glow like a horological spaceship when
darkness falls.
Movement | hand-wound DG 042 calibre, 651 parts,
38.10 x 34.70 mm, 11.45 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Functions | analogue hours and minutes (top display),
digital second time zone (bottom display) by moving
micro-segments driven by 23 cams
Case | Case / luminescent carbon fibre, open back,
56 x 48 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres
44
DeLaneau
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
DESIGN
GRACE CABOCHON RUBIES
RONDO TRANSLUCENT
DeLaneau specialises in the creation of exceptional
timepieces in very small quantities, a vocation
confirmed this year with the Grace collection,
which is a celebration of gem-setting. These Fine
Jewellery watches are composed of a white gold
bracelet which has been completely covered in
precious stones surrounding a gem-set dial whose
colour is in harmony with these stones. This Grace
Cabochon Rubies is adorned with a rare gathering
of stones, set over the course of an entire year by a
master gem-setter.
DeLaneau's watches with translucent enamel dials
capture nature's colours through the power of light.
Before the translucent enamel is applied, a master
engraver decorates each dial with a guilloché
pattern. It is then enamelled using the Grand Feu
technique to ensure uniform colour and depth while
allowing the engraved pattern to refract light to
stunning visual effect. Once the required finish has
been achieved, a laser pierces a hole in the dial at
12 o'clock for a single precious stone to be set.
Movement | quartz
Movement | mechanical self-winding, 28,800 vibrations/
Dial | white gold with 268 diamonds, case included
Case | white gold with diamonds in a cuff bracelet
set with 214 cabochon rubies (222.28 carats) and 419
diamonds (5.29 carats), 25 mm ø, 6.85 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres
Dial | gold, translucent enamel on a hand-guilloché
pattern, one navette-cut diamond
Case | rose gold with diamonds, 36 mm ø, 10.33 mm high
45
DeLaneau
DESIGN
RONDO ICON
An independent brand whose production emphasises hand-crafting, DeLaneau offers its clients
the chance to own a watch that has been made
specifically to their requirements. The Rondo Icon
illustrates this possibility to perfection using a
technique in which the company excels: Grand
Feu enamel. Various enamelling skills (miniature
painting, cloisonné, champlevé and foil pailloné)
have been used in conjunction to produce this
timelessly beautiful, polychrome icon. It is set
against 302 diamonds which, together with the
diamonds adorning the case, illustrate DeLaneau's
equally impressive command of gem-setting.
Movement | mechanical self-winding
Dial | Grand Feu enamel, diamonds
Case | red gold, 36 baguette diamonds, 288 brilliant-cut
diamonds, 42 mm ø
46
F.P.Journe
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
ÉLÉGANTE
HISTORICAL TOURBILLON
After eight years of research, F.P. Journe presents
its first collection of women's watches, by the name
of Élégante. The Geneva-based watchmaker has
opted for an electro-mechanical movement which
provides 10 years of use when worn and 18 years
in standby mode. Indeed, the watch is designed to
stop when a motion sensor detects that the rotor
has been still for 30 minutes. When the mechanics
are stopped, a microprocessor continues to keep
time, hence as soon as the oscillating weight,
visible at 4 o'clock, detects movement, the hands
of the Élégante watch take the shortest path to set
themselves at the right time. As a further particularity, the entire dial is in Superluminova.
In 2013, François-Paul Journe celebrated three
decades of his eponymous brand. As a fitting
commemoration of this anniversary, at the end
of the year he unveiled the Historical Tourbillon
in a limited edition of 99. It re-interprets the very
first watch ever made by François-Paul Journe, a
tourbillon pocket watch, this time in the form of a
wristwatch. This "queen of complications" can be
admired by opening the hinged case back, a characteristic feature of an officer's watch.
Movement | electro-mechanical 1210 calibre, patented
bi-rotor motor, 32,000 Hz quartz frequency, 28.50 x 28.30 mm
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, standby
mode after 30 minutes of non-use, automatic timesetting when movement is detected via the oscillating
weight, visible on the dial side
Dial | white Superluminova
Case | tortue shape, titanium with rubber inlay, with or
without diamonds, sapphire back, 34 x 35 mm, 7.35 mm high
Movement | hand-wound 1412 calibre, 178 parts, 32.60
mm ø, 5.95 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency,
one-minute tourbillon on the movement side
Dial | grained silver with engraved filled Roman numerals
and hour ring
Case | 18k 4N rose gold and guilloché silver, double back
in sapphire and 4N gold or guilloché silver, 40 mm ø,
10 mm high
47
Franck Muller
CLASSIC
48
DESIGN
VANGUARD
7 DAYS POWER RESERVE SKELETON
Sporting a signature Curvex case, the new Vanguard
collection from Franck Muller adopts a sleek and
stylish dimension. The eye is immediately drawn
to the applied raised numerals, which are handpolished and brushed. Driven by a self-winding
movement inside titanium or red gold, the Vanguard
is proposed in classic and chronograph versions, all
with a distinctly masculine dynamic.
Late last year, Franck Muller unveiled its 7 Days
Power Reserve in a skeleton version that matches
aesthetic with tradition. The 1700 calibre, whose
two barrels deliver a 7-day power reserve, has been
reworked with particular emphasis on the movement
finish, including hand-chamfered bridges. Crafted in
a choice of 18k gold or stainless steel, this model
comes as two versions with a Cintrée Curvex or
round case.
Movement | self-winding FM 0800 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve
Movement | hand-wound 1740 skeleton calibre, 18,000
vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve
Dial | black, brushed, raised numerals
Dial | skeleton
Case | Cintrée Curvex, titanium or red gold, 44 x 53.70 mm,
12.80 mm high
Case | round or Cintrée Curvex, 18k gold or stainless
steel
Franck Muller
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
GIGA GONG TOURBILLON
INFINITY SUNRISE
In 2011 Franck Muller released the Giga Tourbillon
watch equipped with, as its name implies, the
biggest tourbillon on the market, measuring 20 mm
in diameter. Now the brand's watchmakers have
gone a step further and introduced a new complication to this skeleton watch to produce the Giga
Gong Tourbillon. The gong in question strikes the
hour to indicate time audibly. Four series-coupled
barrels provide a power reserve of six days or 40
hours, depending whether the strike function, which
is activated by a pusher, is operating or not.
The new Infinity Sunrise collection expresses Franck
Muller's vision of elegance and femininity. The dial,
which is crafted in-house, results from a lengthy
process whereby the "template" on which the
diamonds will be set is cut from a solid silver mass,
then adjusted to fit the mother-of-pearl dial. The
sparkle of the diamonds, extending outwards like
sunrays, is intensified by the shimmering mother-ofpearl. Both a jewel and a watch, the Infinity Sunrise
is the epitome of elegance every day.
Movement | hand-wound tourbillon calibre, 447 parts,
frequency, 6-day power reserve without strike, 40 hours
with strike
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,
power-reserve indicator, hour strike in passing, strike on/
off indicator
Movement | quartz
Dial | skeleton
Dial | mother-of-pearl, silver, diamonds
Case | Cintrée Curvex, 18k gold, 43.70 x 59.20 mm,
14 mm high
Case | 18k gold or stainless steel, bezel set with
diamonds
49
Girard-Perregaux
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TRI-AXIAL TOURBILLON
NEO-TOURBILLON WITH THREE BRIDGES
This new timepiece confirms Girard-Perregaux
as a specialist in high-precision mechanisms. As
the name suggests, the tourbillon in the Tri-Axial
Tourbillon rotates around three separate axes.
Incorporated into the sapphire crystal of the dial, a
domed sapphire lens surrounds the cage, allowing
it sufficient space in which to rotate. The dial is
constructed on multiple levels, with hours and
minutes on a smaller, offset dial featuring a Clou
de Paris design. The power-reserve indicator is
positioned for pleasing visual symmetry. Limited
edition of ten.
A concept imagined 150 years ago is given a
distinctly avant-garde face in this Neo-Tourbillon
With Three Bridges. While the original architecture
and codes are preserved, the shape of the now
skeletonised bridges, the form of the crystal and
the heart of the calibre itself have been redesigned
with a focus on three-dimensionality. The movement
is entirely new and larger than in previous versions.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GP09300-0001
calibre, 317 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency,
50
TECHNICAL
Functions | hours, minutes, tri-axial tourbillon, power
reserve
Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP09400-0001
calibre, 245 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency,
Dial | anthracite grey, offset silvered dial with Clou de
Paris decoration
tourbillon
Case | rose gold, 48 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Case | rose gold, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Girard-Perregaux
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
CAT’S EYE BLOOM
CAT’S EYE ANNIVERSARY
The coveted Cat's Eye collection welcomes a
timepiece with particular feminine appeal thanks to
the stylised peonies that blossom on its dial. These
delicately executed flowers are crafted to resemble
lace. They are set onto the hand-polished, motherof-pearl dial then finished with a mesh-like overlay.
Each of the flowers appears to have been embroidered. Instead they are fashioned from seven layers
of material which are successively applied to achieve
the desired volume and three-dimensional effect.
Girard-Perregaux's iconic women's collection
celebrates its 10th anniversary with an explosion
of precious stones. Rays dart across the dial, originating not in the centre but at the 9 o'clock position
for a visually dynamic effect. As well as resonating
with the oval form of the case, this asymmetry
allows the rays to be of different lengths to create a
dazzling "firework" impression.
calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power
reserve
reserve
Dial | mother-of-pearl
Dial | onyx
Case | oval, steel, 64 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.95 carat),
37.84 x 32.84 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres
Case | oval, white gold and diamonds, 35.44 x 30.44 mm,
51
Glashütte Original
DESIGN
CLASSIC
PANOMATICINVERSE
SEVENTIES CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE
Successfully introduced in 2008, the PanoInverse
was Glashütte Original's first watch to invert
the position of certain parts so that the duplex
swan-neck fine adjustment could be seen on the
dial side. This year the Saxon watchmaker presents
a second version, equipped with the self-winding
91-02 precision calibre offering a 42-hour power
reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds and Glashütte
Original's signature panorama date display inside
a 42 mm case. Here is a timepiece that matches
technical sophistication with an original design and
smart functionality.
Glashütte Original continues to embody highprecision, German mechanical watchmaking which
can be traced back to 1845 in the Saxon town of
Glashütte. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama
Date is the latest addition to the 20th Century
Vintage Collection. The brand is renowned for a
number of complications, including chronographs,
and the new 37-02 calibre, entirely developed and
made by Glashütte Original, is the first to be built
specifically as a chronograph.
Movement | self-winding 91-02 calibre, 38.20 mm ø,
power reserve
52
TECHNICAL
Movement | self-winding 37-02 calibre, 31.60 mm ø,
8 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour
power reserve
large date, balance/spring and duplex swan-neck fine
adjustment on the dial side
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with powerreserve indicator, large date, stop seconds, flyback
chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute
counter on a subdial, 12-hour counter in an aperture
Dial | rhodium-plated with gold appliques
Dial | ruthenium-plated, sunray pattern, gold appliques
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 40 x 40 mm, 13.50 mm
Glashütte Original
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
SENATOR CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE
Glashütte Original's new 37-01 column-wheel
chronograph, developed and built inside its
workshops, makes its debut in the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date. A landmark in the collection,
it borrows the signature, classic lines of the Senator
watch and is central to the Manufacture's "Art &
Technik" pillar.
Movement | self-winding 37-01 calibre, 31.60 mm
diameter, 8 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with powerreserve indicator, large date, stop seconds, flyback
counter, 12-hour counter
Dial | lacquered, grained silver
Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 14 mm
53
Greubel Forsey
Photo of the prototype and not the final version
TECHNICAL
QP À ÉQUATION
When Greubel Forsey "tackles" a complication, it is
always with the aim of delivering a result that is both
technically and aesthetically accomplished, as once
again confirmed by this year's perpetual calendar
model. Adjustable in both directions, it incorporates
an equation of time and the now famous 24-second
tourbillon inclined at 25°. The key to this innovation
is a coding mechanism which changes the different
indications on the front and back of the watch.
Simplicity itself to use, this is no less another tour
de force from the brand.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GF07 calibre with
patented 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°, perpetual calendar and equation of time, 570 parts, 37 mm ø,
9.55 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two
barrels, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-second
tourbillon, bi-directional perpetual calendar with
date, day and month, leap year indicator, day/night
indication (24h with red zone), power-reserve indicator,
function selection, equation of time on the back
showing seasons, solstices, equinoxes and current year
in four digits
Dial | gold, multiple tiers
Case | white gold, asymmetric convex sapphire crystal,
transparent back with asymmetric flat sapphire crystal
54
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES
CONTEMPORAIN SERTI
For its tenth anniversary, Greubel Forsey showers
precious stones on one of its iconic watches: the
Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain. The sparkle
of baguette diamonds - 272 in all for 9.71 carats
- on the bezel, lugs and part of the dial illuminates the tourbillon as it rotates, while an ocean of
blued titanium evokes a maritime mood, with the
diamonds suggesting the white caps of waves.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GF01c calibre
with patented 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°, 267
parts, 36.4 mm ø, 10.9 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour
frequency, two barrels, 72-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-second
tourbillon, power-reserve indicator, tourbillon rotation
indicator
Dial | blued titanium, partially set with diamonds, small
seconds dial and power-reserve sector in gold
Case | white gold with convex sapphire crystal, transparent back, screwed lugs set with 80 baguette diamonds,
bezel set with 60 baguette diamonds
H. Moser & Cie
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
VENTURER SMALL SECONDS
The Venturer Small Seconds is first in a new line-up
of watches from H. Moser & Cie. Taking its cue
from the company's historic pocket watches, the
Venturer collection is no less contemporary in style
with distinct references to the Bauhaus era. To
mark the event, H. Moser & Cie has equipped this
debut launch with a new Manufacture movement,
the HMC 327, which has been designed to fit
closely to the sapphire case back where it can
be viewed at leisure. H. Moser & Cie confirms its
return, with brio.
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL CALENDAR
BLACK EDITION
H. Moser & Cie instils new life into its perpetual
calendar, probably one of the most elegantly understated on the market and among the few which
can be adjusted forwards and backwards, at any
time. The case of this new version is in DLC-coated
titanium as a complement to the existing models
in gold and platinum. Confirming this more urban,
contemporary direction, this new Endeavour watch
has a sapphire back through which to admire the
mat black finish of the movement whose blackened
escapement bridge allows the Moser escapement
to shine through.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HMC 341 calibre
with hacking seconds, 34 mm ø, 5.80 mm high, 18,000
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HMC 327
calibre with hacking seconds, 32 mm ø, 4.40 mm high,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, powerreserve indicator on the movement side
Dial | fumé red gold, slate or silvered with sunray pattern
Case | 18k red gold, 39 mm ø, 12.50 mm high, sapphire back
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual
calendar with large instantaneous date in an aperture,
month by central hand, leap-year cycle indicator on the
movement side, power-reserve indicator
Dial | black
Case | titanium with DLC treatment, sapphire back,
40.80 mm ø, 11.10 mm high
55
Harry Winston
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
HISTOIRE DE TOURBILLON 5
PROJECT Z8
Since 2009, Harry Winston has pushed the
boundaries of the tourbillon, one of watchmaking's
major complications. The adventure continues this
year with Histoire de Tourbillon 5 whose movement
is structured on multiple levels like a mechanical
landscape, with a low-lying movement, bridges
placed just below the surface, and the tri-axial
tourbillon towering over the scene from inside its
dome. The skeletonised movement takes further
still this idea to totally expose the mechanics behind
the tourbillon. So as to counterbalance the extreme
lightness of the tourbillon carriages, which rotate in
45, 75 and 300 seconds, a gold bridge was created
that would maintain the subtle balance between
them, and make this fifth Histoire de Tourbillon a
very wearable watch. Limited edition of 20.
Project Z8 is the latest Project Z, a line of watches
crafted from Zalium, Harry Winston's exclusive,
zirconium-based alloy that is harder than titanium and
highly resistant to corrosion. This year's Project Z is a
dual-time model distinguished by clearly separated
functions and a notable feature concerning the retrograde dual-time display: while most can only be
moved forwards, this one can be adjusted, via the
crown, in both directions thanks to the additional
clutch system, for faster and easier setting of the
second time zone. Limited edition of 300.
Movement | hand-wound HW4303 skeleton calibre, 381
parts, 40.40 mm ø, 17.30 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour
Functions | offset hours on a disc at 2 o'clock, offset
minutes on a disc at 4 o'clock, seconds on the tri-axial
tourbillon at 9 o'clock, power-reserve indicator at 11
o'clock
Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 47 mm ø, 21.70 mm
56
TECHNICAL
Movement | self-winding HW3502 calibre, 281 parts,
silicon balance spring, 32 mm ø, 5.20 mm high, 28,800
vibrations/hour frequency
Functions | offset hours and minutes, day/night indicator,
date in an aperture, movement operating indicator,
retrograde hour for the second time zone
Dial | galvanic black, circular satin-finish, central disc with
reverse Clou de Paris
Case | Zalium, sapphire back, 42.20 mm ø, 11.60 mm high,
Harry Winston
WOMEN'S
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
MIDNIGHT DIAMOND SECOND 39MM
AVENUE C MINI ART DECO
Harry Winston has worked with Blancpain to develop
certain of its new mechanical watches whose
movements include a flat balance spring in silicon.
The Midnight collection is an excellent example,
with three models including this Diamond Second
39mm. Small seconds reproduce the floral motif of
the Lily Cluster jewellery collection and, with each
rotation, successively reveal three diamonds in a
circular segment. While a tourbillon may draw the
eye deeper into the movement, the fascination of
seeing the dial brought to life is the same.
The first rectangular watch from Harry Winston, the
Avenue collection finds inspiration in the Manhattan
skyline. The geometric case of the Avenue C Mini
Art Deco is recognisable at a glance. Diamonds
sparkle across its delicate proportions, carefully
studied to show off the slender lugs.
Movement | self-winding HW2201calibre, 214 parts,
26.20 mm ø, 4.47 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds
Dial | rosé champagne, sunray satin finish, 3 brilliant-cut
diamond hour markers
Case | 18k rose gold, 91 brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphire
back, 39.30 mm ø, 10.40 mm high, water-resistant to
30 metres
Movement | quartz
Dial | silvered, sunray guilloché, centre set with 66
brilliant-cut diamonds in a snow setting (0.17 carat)
Case | 18k rose gold with 47 brilliant-cut diamonds
(0,70 carat), 18k rose gold bracelet with 212 brilliant-cut
diamonds (2.18 carats), 15.60 x 32.30 mm, 7.80 mm high,
57
Hautlence
DESIGN
ORIGINE DESTINATION 04
Until now, Hautlence equipped all its watches with
movements that were developed and assembled
in-house under the Atelier name. While movement
development remains an integral part of its work,
the company has always made clear its interest
in collaborating with outside partners for certain
lines. Now the brand is proposing series-produced
models under the Signature label, fitted with externally sourced movements. Destination, driven by
a Soprod dual time-zone calibre, is the first line to
carry this new label.
Movement | self-winding Soprod 9351/A10-2 calibre,
Functions | hours, minutes, large date, second time
zone, day/night indicator
Dial | opaline brown with Clou de Paris decoration
Case | titanium with brown PVD treatment and 18k 5N
red gold, water-resistant to 30 metres
58
Hermès
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
CAPE COD TONNEAU SILVER
DRESSAGE L’HEURE MASQUÉE
A pillar of Hermès' watch collections since 1991,
Cape Cod has reinvented itself with infinite elegance,
all the while preserving its characteristic roundness and
distinctive lugs. New features include a redesigned dial
and interchangeable straps for the entire collection.
The case of this Tonneau model is proposed in Silver,
an exclusive silver alloy which lastingly preserves the
unique sheen of this precious metal.
The Parisian firm adds to its Le Temps de l'Imaginaire collection with a watch that again plays with
time: Dressage L'heure masquée. The hour hand is
hidden behind the constantly moving minute hand,
and appears only when the pusher in the crown is
pressed, at the same time revealing a second time
zone. When the pusher is released, the hour hand
and second time zone disappear again, and time
regains an air of mystery. The patented H1925
movement is by Vaucher Manufacture. Limited
edition of 500.
Movement | quartz
Dial | opaline silvered, stamped pattern in the centre
Case | Silver (Hermès' proprietary certified 925 sterling
silver alloy) with or without 64 diamonds (1.6 carats),
30 x 33.60 mm, interchangeable straps, water-resistant
to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding Manufacture H1925 calibre, 26
mm ø, 3.70 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, second time zone in an
aperture, "hidden hour" function by pushbutton to
show the hour hand and second time zone
Dial | opaline silvered, vertical guilloché in the centre
Case | cushion shape, 750 5N rose gold, sapphire back,
40.50 x 38.40 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres
59
Hermès
DESIGN
ARCEAU MILLEFIORI 41MM BLUE
FAUBOURG
Already in 2013, Hermès unveiled a muchcommented showcase for the expertise of Les
Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis, which has been
producing glass and crystal since 1586 and has been
part of the Hermès group since the late 1980s. One
expression of the Cristalleries' unique skill is glass
paperweights, crafted using a technique known
as millefiori. The first of these paperweights were
made in the middle of the nineteenth century. For
this Millefiori watch, successive layers of crystal are
applied to enamel to produce coloured rods, which
are sliced into wafer-thin sections then assembled
into richly embellished dials.
With a diameter of just 15.50 millimetres, the
Faubourg d’Hermès watch reduces time to its most
essential. Its delicate design has the elegance of a
miniature and the discretion of those very special
objects that are almost too precious to share.
Movement | self-winding H1837 calibre, 193 parts,
26 mm ø, 3.70 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Dial | millefiori crystal
Case | 750 white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres
60
WOMEN'S
Movement | quartz
Dial | white lacquer, diamond at 12 o'clock
Case | rose, white or yellow gold, with or without
diamonds, gold bracelet, leather strap or satin strap,
15.50 mm ø
Hublot
TECHNICAL
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
BIG BANG UNICO CHRONO BI-RETROGRADE
FIFA 2014
CLASSIC FUSION CATHEDRAL TOURBILLON
MINUTE REPEATER
This is the Official Watch of the 2014 FIFA World
Cup, as well as the first Big Bang Unico Chrono
Bi-Retrograde. The new, patent-pending movement
drives a central, bi-retrograde chronograph. The
chrono seconds and minute hands move left to
right across a circular arc of 45 minutes (half of a
football match) with an area for 15 minutes of extra
time giving a total of 60 minutes. Numbered and
limited edition of 100.
Hublot's second minute repeater combined
with a tourbillon has chosen a sapphire dial to
reveal the artistry of its movement in a striking
contrast of materials. There is a redesigned timesetting function and a traditional tourbillon inside
a 13.6 mm cage. The minute repeater sounds a
double cathedral chime.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture HUB1260 UNICO
reserve
central chrono with bi-retrograde minutes and seconds
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HUB8001 calibre,
Dial | black, yellow retrograde minute scale and minute
hand, green retrograde seconds scale and seconds
hand
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, minute repeater
with double cathedral chime
Case | round, 18k King Gold, 45 mm ø, carbon-fibre
bezel, water-resistant to 100 metres
Dial | sapphire
Case | 18k King Gold, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
61
Hublot
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON FIRMAMENT
SPIRIT OF BIG BANG
Never before seen in watchmaking and exclusive to
Hublot, osmium is one of the rarest metals on Earth.
As well as having exceptional hardness, it is also the
densest and heaviest metal at 22.6 g/cm3, heavier
even than platinum. In its compacted, crystallised
form, osmium becomes inalterable in air. It brings
its distinctive, blue-tinted sparkle to the dial of this
new Classic Fusion watch. Osmium is crystallised by
means of a highly sophisticated process which takes
it to its melting point of 3,033°C, thereby modifying
its structure to form osmium crystal.
One of a kind at Hublot, a tonneau case brings
its geometric form to this Spirit of Big Bang. The
brand's favourite "sandwich" construction enables
a fusion of materials. Inside the case beats the new
Hublot HUB4700 calibre, redesigned in close collaboration with Zenith and based on an El Primero
chronograph with date. Purists acknowledge this
movement as one of the best Swiss chronographs
ever made.
Movement | self-winding HUB4700 calibre on a Zenith El
Primero base, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour
power reserve
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HUB6017 calibre,
Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon
Dial | osmium crystal
Case | black ceramic, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
62
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 3-hour
counter, date
Dial | sapphire
Case | tonneau, titanium, titanium ceramic and 18k King
Gold, 51 x 45 mm, water-resistant to 100 metres
IWC
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC
AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC 2000
The new Aquatimer Automatic from IWC makes no
secret of its vintage inspiration. The purist dial and
dive time scale with 15-minute graduations on the
internal rotating bezel recall the very first Aquatimer
from 1967, while the narrow, sloping external
rotating bezel and the rounded, recessed grips refer
back to the Ocean 2000, a 1982 model designed by
Ferdinand A. Porsche. The external/internal rotating
bezel is an innovative new feature.
Water-resistant to 2,000 metres, this new Aquatimer
is built for professional divers. Like all the new
dive watches in IWC's 2014 collection, it comes
equipped with the new system of external and
internal rotating bezels; the internal bezel can only
be turned counter-clockwise as an additional safety
guarantee for the diver. A clutch, concealed by
a cover at 9 o'clock, transmits the rotation of the
external bezel to the interior of the case and the
internal rotating bezel, a much easier system than
by the crown.
Functions | hours, minutes, central hacking seconds,
date
Functions | hours, minutes, central hacking seconds, date
Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with
SafeDive system
SafeDive system
Case | stainless steel, 42 mm ø, 14 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres
Case | titanium, 46 mm ø, 20.5 mm high, water-resistant
to 2,000 metres
63
IWC
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
AQUATIMER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
DIGITAL DATE-MONTH
AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH EDITION
"GALAPAGOS ISLANDS"
IWC's speciality perpetual calendar featuring a large
digital date and month with jumping mechanism
makes a new addition to the Aquatimer range. The
date and month discs are covered with mesh grilles
that offer a view of the jumping mechanism. Limited
edition of 50.
IWC confirms its commitment to the preservation
of the threatened Galapagos Islands with this first
edition to be driven by the IWC-manufactured
chronograph movement. Part of the proceeds from
sales benefit the Charles Darwin Foundation. The
mat black rubber coating on the stainless steel
case, a particular feature of this watch, is applied in
a complex vulcanisation process during which each
case is placed in a mould and bonded to the rubber
by pressure.
perpetual calendar, chronograph, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Functions | hours, minutes, small hacking seconds,
perpetual calendar with jumping mechanism, large
date and month, leap year display, flyback chronograph
with hours and minutes in a counter at 12 o'clock, centre
seconds
SafeDive system
Case | rubber-coated titanium casing ring, external
bezel and case back in 18k red gold, 49 mm ø, 19 mm
64
chronograph, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, date,
flyback chronograph with centre seconds and minutes
at 12 o'clock
SafeDive system
Case | rubber-coated stainless steel, 44 mm ø, 17 mm
Jaeger-LeCoultre
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
HYBRIS MECHANICA 11 − MASTER
ULTRA THIN MINUTE REPEATER FLYING
TOURBILLON
The eleventh opus in the Hybris Mechanica collection
and the first ultra-thin grande complication, this
is the thinnest minute repeater ever made with a
height of just 7.9 mm. An ingenious system reduces
the silent time lapses between chimes. Drawing
on eight patents of which six are new, this watch
also includes a novel flying tourbillon with a flying
balance, a new high-performance balance spring,
a peripheral self-winding system and a retractable
monopusher. Limited edition of 75.
TECHNICAL
MASTER COMPRESSOR CHRONOGRAPH
CERAMIC
A chronograph and a GMT function with day/night
indication cohabit inside the imposing case of this
new launch. A patented compression key offers an
additional security in terms of water-resistance. The
supremely legible dial is cased in ceramic, a material
known for its exceptional scratch-resistance. As
for the movement, it benefits from the very latest
technological innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Limited edition of 500.
Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 362 calibre
with peripheral oscillating weight, tourbillon, minute
repeater, 33.3 mm ø, 4.8 mm high, 471 parts, 21,600
Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 757 calibre,
chronograph, GMT, 300 parts, 6.27 mm high, 28,800
Functions | hours, minutes, flying tourbillon with flying
balance, minute repeater reducing silent time lapses
between chimes
Functions | hours, minutes, date, chronograph,
movement operating indicator, second time zone with
day/night indicator
Dial | silvered, grained
Dial | semi-mat black
Case | round, 18k extra-white gold, sapphire back,
Case | round, ceramic, 46 mm ø, water-resistant to
100 metres
65
Jaeger-LeCoultre
TECHNICAL
66
CLASSIC
CLASSIC
WOMEN'S
MASTER ULTRA THIN GRAND FEU
RENDEZ-VOUS DATE
True to the Master Ultra Thin spirit, this new launch
highlights the beauty of enamel, one of the oldest
crafts in the Manufacture's repertoire of skills. The
white gold dial is covered with grand feu enamel,
in the purest tradition of this age-old technique
which only a small circle of craftsmen still master. It
imparts a noble elegance to a watch whose beauty
is underscored by simplicity of expression.
Jaeger-LeCoultre's leading lady adopts a new size
that will delight the most slender wrists. The rose
gold case, which is circled by a diamond-set bezel,
encloses the Jaeger-LeCoultre 966 calibre, one of
the smallest self-winding movements there is. The
subtle ribbing of the finely crafted guilloché on the
dial suggests the delicate texture of wild silk.
Movement | hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre 849 calibre,
power reserve
Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 966 calibre,
Dial | white Grand Feu enamel
Dial | silvered, guilloché
Case | round, 18k white gold, 39 mm ø, 4.05 mm high,
Case | round, 18k rose gold, diamond-set bezel (0.42 carats),
sapphire back, 27.5 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Jaquet Droz
DESIGN
CLASSIC
GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIÈME IVORY
ENAMEL
Three years after its launch in 2011, the Grande
Seconde Quantième returns with a dial and a
movement that bring new vitality to the codes of
Jaquet Droz. In a major evolution, a silicon balance
spring and pallet fork with inversed horns have
been added to the movement. Insensitive to shock,
variations in temperature and pressure, silicon is
also immune to the influence of magnetic fields and
maintains perfect stability over time. The dial is now
double enamelled using the Grand Feu technique.
Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2660Q2.P calibre,
silicon balance spring, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/
Functions | offset hours and minutes, large seconds,
date
CLASSIC
GRANDE SECONDE SW STEEL
In 2008 Jaquet Droz launched the Grande Seconde
SW, a sporting interpretation of its iconic timepiece.
This year the line is joined by the first version to
measure 41 mm in diameter. The serrated bezel is
unchanged while the Côtes de Genève pattern on
the dial links this modern watch back to tradition.
Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2663A-S calibre,
two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour
power reserve
Functions | offset hours and minutes, large seconds
Dial | ivory Grand Feu enamel on two levels
Dial | anthracite grey, Côtes de Genève
Case | red gold, 39 mm ø, 12.13 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
Case | steel, rubber-moulded crown, 41 mm ø, 10.89 mm
67
Jaquet Droz
DESIGN
PETITE HEURE MINUTE PAILLONNÉE
An ornamental art originating in the eighteenth
century, paillonnée enamel brings aristocratic
beauty to this watch. Based on the Grand Feu
technique, gold motifs are meticulously applied
on blue enamel over the course of successive
firings at temperatures approaching 1,000°C. Only
a rare few craftsmen still master this technique. The
blued steel hands echo the ultramarine dial, while
the warm glow of the red gold case reflects the
gleaming gold paillons.
Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2653 calibre, two
barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power
reserve
Dial | blue Grand Feu enamel with paillons
Case | 18k red gold, 39 mm ø, 11.52 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres
68
JeanRichard
CLASSIC
DESIGN
AEROSCOPE
TERRASCOPE
In the Aeroscope family, three-hander models are
able co-pilots to the chronograph versions. Engraved
minutes around the bezel, Arabic numerals, and
luminescent hour-markers and skeleton hands make
for excellent legibility thanks to which the essence
of time – hours, minutes and seconds – can be read
at a glance. The new Aeroscope watches come in a
variety of dial colours, with a case in natural titanium
or titanium with a black DLC coating.
JeanRichard presents a new extension to the range,
led by models showing hours, minutes, seconds
and date. This colourful version contrasts a vertical
satin finish on the flat case middle and sides with a
polished finish on the sloping edges. A stylish watch
for the urban explorer.
Movement | self-winding JR60 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/
Movement | self-winding JR60 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/
Dial | white, blue hour-markers with luminescent orange
coating
Dial | green
Case | titanium with black DLC treatment, 44 mm ø,
Case | aluminium, red case middle, blue case sides,
green bezel, 44 mm ø, 12.60 mm high, water-resistant
to 100 metres
69
Kari Voutilainen
TECHNICAL
TOURBILLON 6
VINGT-8 GMT
This limited edition of six brings further confirmation of master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen's
command of his craft, from the new construction of
the in-house tourbillon to the outstanding quality
of finish applied to each of his timepieces. Apart
from the mainsprings, balance springs, jewels, cases
and buckles, every single component including dials
is produced in-house. Such an uncompromising
approach undoubtedly represents the summit of
Fine Watchmaking.
Kari Voutilainen adds to the range of timepieces
fitted with his famous Vingt-8 calibre which incorporates an additional 70 parts to propose a second
time zone with day/night indication on a disc inside
the subsidiary seconds. This watch, only a handful
of which are made each year, always to order, is
a chance for the master watchmaker's atelier to
demonstrate its complete command of watchmaking's métiers d'art. On the movement side, the
imposing, 13.60 mm balance wheel is prominent at
4 o'clock.
Movement | Manufacture tourbillon calibre, directimpulse escapement with two escape wheels, 30.50 mm
diameter, 6 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency
Functions | offset hours and minutes, seconds on the
large one-minute tourbillon, 14 mm tourbillon carriage ø
70
TECHNICAL
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 28 calibre, 18,000
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, second time
zone with day/night indication, adjusted by pushing
the crown
Dial | blued silver, hand-guilloché
Dial | Manual engraving "Swiss Mountain" - day/night
indicator in rose gold and white gold, manually engraved
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø
Louis Vuitton
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
ESCALE WORLDTIME
EMPRISE YELLOW GOLD
Louis Vuitton offers its personal interpretation of
the world time function. The dial is formed by three
rotating discs, adjusted via the crown. The external
disc, in colour and on two levels, bears the initials
of cities around the world. The wearer rotates it until
the reference city aligns with the yellow arrow at 12
o'clock. The central disc, which permanently rotates,
is divided into two half-circles, one white and one
black to differentiate between day and night hours.
In its centre is a smaller disc, also in constant rotation,
which carries the minutes.
Louis Vuitton captures a hint of Paris in the Emprise
watch. The symmetrical square case, whose horns
suggest the corner pieces on a Vuitton trunk, offers a
crisp silhouette against the bevelled contours of the
double facetted crystal. The strap can be in satin, or
in leather embossed with a grosgrain pattern, two
references borrowed from the world of couture. The
dial of the gold version recreates the quilted fabric
used to line the inside of steamer trunks.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture LV106 calibre,
218 parts, 37 mm ø, 6.65 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour,
Movement | quartz
Functions | world time on discs
Dial | rotating discs with hand-painted city initials
Dial | opaline silvered, quilted pattern
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 9.75 mm
Case | yellow gold, 23 x 23 mm, water-resistant to
50 metres
71
Louis Vuitton
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
TAMBOUR MONOGRAM INFINI
The design on the dial of the Tambour Monogram
Infini, crafted by Louis Vuitton's artisan-dialmakers,
originated in the Voyage dans le Temps fine jewellery
collection, introduced in 2012, which in turn is a
contemporary interpretation of a Tibetan mandala
made from Monogram flower petals repeated over
and over in an endless circle to symbolise infinity.
WOMEN'S
DESGN
DENTELLE DE MONOGRAM WITH
POLYNESIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL
Delicacy and refinement define the Dentelle de
Monogram watch. Enclosed in a minimalist, white
gold case measuring 30 mm in diameter, the dial
reproduces the Dentelle de Monogram motif that
was introduced with the Voyage dans le Temps
fine jewellery collection in 2012. A design that slips
effortlessly from jewel to watch, here reinterpreted
on Polynesian mother-of-pearl and framed by the
sparkle of diamonds on the bezel.
Movement | self-winding calibre
Dial | sunray opaline silvered, 12 petals in 18k rose gold
and diamonds, mother-of pearl Monogram flower in the
centre
Case | 18k rose gold, diamond-set bezel, 35 mm ø,
72
Movement | quartz
Dial | Polynesian mother-of-pearl, Dentelle de
Monogram pattern
Case | 18k white gold, diamond-set bezel, 30 mm ø,
Maîtres du Temps
TECHNICAL
CHAPTER 1 TONNEAU TRANSPARENCE
TITANIUM
Maîtres du Temps returns to its Chapter One with
this limited edition of 11 in titanium with a sapphire
dial. Its vast transparency is a match for this grande
complication watch whose movement, the work of
Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, lays bare
its secrets and a rarely achieved quality of finish.
Movement | hand-wound SHC02.1 tourbillon calibre,
558 parts, 51 x 32 mm, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph
with central hand and 60-minute counter, retrograde
date, retrograde GMT, one-minute tourbillon, day of
the week and moon phases on rollers
Dial | sapphire
Case | titanium, sapphire back, 62.60 x 45.90 mm,
18 mm high
73
MB&F
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
LEGACY MACHINE 101
Legacy Machine 101 is driven by the very first
MB&F movement to have been entirely developed
in-house by Guillaume Thévenin, with the help of
Kari Voutilainen for the shape and finishing of the
parts. Eric Giroud is once again in charge of design.
As on LM1, the 14-mm balance wheel of the LM101
hangs majestically from twin arches, allowing a view
of the escapement at the same time. As well as its
smaller case, the LM101 stands out from its predecessors for its more conventional power-reserve
indication, shown by a hand on a subdial.
Movement | hand-wound, three-dimensional calibre,
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator
Dial | balance wheel suspended above the movement,
white lacquered hour/minute and power-reserve
subdials
Case | 18k red or white gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø,
16 mm high
74
Montblanc
TECHNICAL
COLLECTION VILLERET 1858
EXOTOURBILLON RATTRAPANTE
The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante displays an unprecedented combination of complications in the finest
tradition of Montblanc's Manufacture Montblanc
Villeret. First a tourbillon, whose large balance is
positioned outside the tourbillon cage. The different
time indications, complete with a second time zone,
are shown on a regulator dial with central minutes,
small seconds at 9 o'clock, and the hour in both
time zones at 6 o'clock. The split-seconds chronograph displays centre seconds with minutes at
3 o'clock. Limited edition of 18.
CLASSIC
MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE MOONPHASE
With a name that alludes to the fountain pen launched
in 1924, and which has since become an icon of the
brand, the Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase is
Montblanc's supremely classic interpretation of the
moon-phase watch. These moon phases are shown at
6 o'clock inside a display that also indicates the date
by means of a hand. These new horological masterpieces are distinguished by craftsmanship, timeless
design and perfect functionality.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture MB M16.61
calibre, split-seconds chronograph, GMT, four-minute
tourbillon, 436 parts, 38.4 mm ø, 11.9 mm high, 18,000
Functions | hours and local hour at 6 o'clock, central
minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, day/night indicator
at 4 o'clock, monopusher split-seconds chronograph
with seconds and split-seconds in the centre, 30-minute
counter at 3 o'clock, 4-minute tourbillon at 12 o'clock
Dial | 18k gold with applied scales in Grand Feu enamel
for seconds, hours, 24-hour display and 30-minute counter
Case | 18k white gold, convex sapphire crystal, sapphire
back, 47 mm ø, 18.20 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Movement | self-winding mechanical MB 29.14 calibre,
moon phases, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, large seconds, date by hand,
moon phases
Dial | sunburst silvery white, slightly cambered
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.24 mm
75
Montblanc
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE
PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Montblanc gives watchmaking's grandes complications their most classic expression in the new
Meisterstück Heritage collection. This perpetual
calendar is a perfect illustration, with the harmonious arrangement of its different displays within a
timelessly restrained design. The 39 mm diameter
of the case is further evidence that this collection
banishes the superfluous. Every detail has been
carefully considered to seduce admirers of a
perfectly "measured" measurement of time.
Movement | self-winding mechanical MB 29.15 calibre,
perpetual calendar, moon phases, 28,800 vibrations/
Functions | hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with
date, day and month by hands, leap-year cycle shown
by an arrow inside the month display at 12 o'clock, age
and phases of the moon
Dial | sunburst silvery white, slightly cambered
76
TECHNICAL
TIMEWALKER CHRONOGRAPH 100
Montblanc is one of the few Manufactures to have
accomplished the feat of producing a mechanical
chronograph which measures hundredths of a
second. This new TimeWalker is equipped with two
"hearts": one for the time indication and one for
the chronograph whose hand sweeps the dial in one
second. Limited edition of 100.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture MB M66-25
calibre, chronograph, two balances, 377 parts, 38.4 mm
diameter, 7.63 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency
for the time indication, 360,000 vibrations/hour frequency
for the chronograph, 100-hour power reserve for the time
indication, 45-minute power reserve for the chronograph
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock,
monopusher chronograph (pusher at 12 o'clock between
the lugs) with central 1/100th of a second (1 revolution/
second), concentric 60-second and 15-minute counters
at 6 o'clock
Dial | sapphire crystal with several functional levels,
continually running seconds on a sapphire crystal disc at
9 o'clock, inclined flange with 1/100th of a second scale
Case | material mix of titanium, stainless steel and
carbon fibre, sapphire back, 45.6 mm ø, 15.48 mm high,
Omega
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
DE VILLE TRÉSOR
SPEEDMASTER MARK II
The De Ville Trésor, a new take on a classic Omega
watch from 1949, resides in an elegantly slender,
40 mm case in Omega Sedna gold. A domed
sapphire crystal protects an opaline dial, also
domed, as are the 18k gold hour markers. Arched
minute and second hands complement these
curves. The calibre that brings them to life – the
Master Co-Axial Chronometer – is inscribed on
the dial. It is protected against magnetic fields
greater than 15,000 gauss thanks to breakthrough
technology from Omega.
1969 was the year of a giant leap for mankind.
The astronauts from the history-making Apollo
11 mission had all been issued with Omega
Speedmaster Professional chronographs. That
same year, Omega presented its Speedmaster
Mark II. Its innovative, aerodynamic case housed
the hand-wound Calibre 1861 which had already
proved its worth inside the famous "Moonwatch".
Now in 2014, Omega has revisited the Speedmaster Mark II, equipping it with a self-winding
movement and a tachymeter scale that can be
read in complete darkness. A first for the Speedmaster collection.
Movement | COSC-certified, hand-wound Master
Co-Axial 8511 calibre with silicon balance spring,
protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000
gauss, 60-hour power reserve
Movement | self-winding Co-Axial 3330 calibre with Si14
silicon balance spring, 52-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date with
corrector, chronograph with centre seconds hand,
30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, luminescent tachymeter scale
Dial | domed, opaline silvered, Clou de Paris
Dial | grey or mat black
Case | Omega Sedna gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø,
Case | tonneau, stainless steel, satin-brushed and
polished, 42.40 x 46.20 mm, water-resistant to 100 metres
77
Omega
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
SEAMASTER 300 MASTER CO-AXIAL
In 1957, Omega released its Seamaster 300,
designed specifically for professional divers.
Now it returns, with the benefit of the very latest
technological developments from the brand. First
the outside: the steel version is equipped with
a polished black ceramic bezel incorporating a
dive scale in Liquidmetal. For the gold versions,
Omega has used its patented Sedna alloy of gold,
copper and palladium for even greater durability,
along with Ceragold technology which bonds gold
to ceramic for the bezel. Inside beats the Master
Co-Axial 8400 calibre which resists magnetic fields
greater than 15,000 gauss.
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Master
Co-Axial 8400 calibre with silicon balance spring,
protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000
gauss, 60-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds
Dial | black ceramic
Case | case and bracelet in titanium, Sedna gold or
bi-colour, black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel
with Ceragold or Liquidmetal technology, sapphire
back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres
78
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA 150M MASTER
CO-AXIAL 34 MM
Omega extends its Seamaster Aqua Terra line with,
among others, two versions for women including
a 34 mm model. Powered by the Master Co-Axial
8520 movement, it drives home the brand's
determination to win over its female customers
to the intricacies of mechanical timekeeping. This
"engine" is, furthermore, immune to the negative
effects of magnetic fields, the focus of Omega's
latest technology. After the precision of its co-axial
escapement, Omega is investing itself fully in
guaranteeing its movements' reliability and stability.
Movement | self-winding Master Co-Axial 8520 calibre
with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic
fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve
Dial | white mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond hour markers
Case | bi-colour in stainless steel and yellow gold, or 18k
Omega Sedna gold, or smooth stainless steel, polished or
diamond-set bezel, 34 mm ø, water-resistant to 150 metres
Panerai
CLASSICAL
LUMINOR 1950 LEFT-HANDED 3 DAYS – 47MM
Panerai endlessly demonstrates the pioneering
spirit of a brand that equipped the Italian Navy's
first combat divers in the 1940s, evidenced by this
Luminor 1950 in a left-handed version, meaning
the crown and its protection are positioned at 9
o'clock. Left-handed watches such as this are part
of Panerai's history, as certain marine commandos
preferred to wear their watch on their right wrist and
keep their left wrist free for a compass and depth
gauge, hence this unusual configuration.
Movement | hand-wound mechanical P.3000 calibre,
16½ lines, 5.3 mm high, 160 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour
frequency, two barrels, 3-day power reserve
Dial | black, sandwich structure with two plates on each
side of a layer of Super-LumiNova®, protected by a
Plexiglas® plate
Case | AISI 316L polished steel, 47 mm ø, water-resistant
to 100 metres
79
Parmigiani Fleurier
DESIGN
TONDA METROPOLITAINE
TORIC RESONANCE 3
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces Metro, a new
collection for 21st-century city life. The lady's watch
comes in the lineage of the Tonda 1950, a slimmer
design than other Parmigiani watches. The subtle
asymmetry of the left and right sides of the case
adds a playful touch. Small seconds circle a date
window on the white mother-of-pearl dial, while
rounded numerals and hour markers stand out in
rounded relief.
While the minute repeater is one of the ultimate
complications, here pride of place goes to the large
date display, a watchmaking challenge given the
imposing size of its discs. Indeed, Parmigiani Fleurier
first had to develop a sophisticated mechanism to
harness the energy required for them to instantaneously jump. The dial is designed to draw the eye
to this giant-sized date in an aperture whose depth
is accentuated by a guilloché pattern.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture PF310 calibre,
80
TECHNICAL
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture PF359 calibre,
minute repeater, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Functions | hours, minutes, minute repeater, instantaneous large date with energy-accumulating mechanism
Dial | white mother-of-pearl
Dial | silvered
Case | round, 18k white gold, sapphire back, 45 mm ø,
Parmigiani Fleurier
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
TONDA POMELLATO ROSE GOLD SET
TURQUOISE
Sealing the partnership between Parmigiani Fleurier
and Pomellato, this watch takes inspiration from the
Italian jeweller's Capri collection. The turquoise dial,
a feat in itself, takes up residence in a rose gold case
that is entirely covered in diamonds. The slender
contours of the "sage" hands are in harmony with
the applied hour markers in rose gold. An exceptionally feminine watch.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture PF701 calibre,
Dial | turquoise opaline
Case | round, 18k rose gold, 112 diamonds (1.085 carats),
sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 8.4 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
81
Patek Philippe
TECHNICAL
82
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
ANNUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH
REF. 5960/1A
NAUTILUS TRAVEL TIME CHRONOGRAPH
REF. 5990/1A
When Patek Philippe introduced its Annual Calendar
Chronograph in platinum in 2006, it also introduced
its first self-winding chronograph. This new style
instantly made its mark with its monocounter and
three large calendar apertures. Further versions
followed in platinum and rose gold. Now the
Manufacture returns with a new interpretation,
Reference 5960/1A, with the A standing for "acier"
or steel. A single letter that marks a revolution at
Patek Philippe, particularly as this steel model will
replace all current versions in platinum and gold.
For close to forty years, the casually elegant
Nautilus has enjoyed iconic status, matching firstclass functionality with durability inside an original
case. The introduction of complications such as date
and moon phases has only added to its success, a
fact made clear by the first Nautilus Chronograph
in 2006. Patek Philippe now enhances the chronograph's already vast appeal with the addition of a
Travel Time function to display two time zones.
Movement | self-winding CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H
calibre, 456 parts, 33 mm ø, 7.68 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve
Movement | self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS calibre, 370
parts, 28 x 31 mm, 6.95 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Functions | hours, minutes, chronograph with centre
seconds hand, monocounter with 60-minute counter
on two concentric scales and 12-hour counter, powerreserve indicator, annual calendar with day, date and
month, day/night indication
Functions | hours, minutes, chronograph with centre
seconds hand, 60-minute counter, second time zone,
double day/night indication for local and home time,
date by a hand
Dial | ebony or opaline silvered
Dial | brass base, black with light to dark gradation,
embossed horizontal stripes
Case | steel, sapphire back, 40.50 mm ø, 13.55 mm high,
Case | steel, sapphire back, 40.5 mm ø, 12.53 mm high,
Paul Gerber
DESIGN
ARITA PORCELAIN
Watchmaker Paul Gerber, who is often referred
to as the master of miniaturisation, and Japanese
porcelain manufacturer Arita have combined their
talent to propose a limited edition of watches
whose porcelain dials are crafted using ancient
techniques. Delicately painted motifs of stylised
flowers and creatures embellish each one.
Paul Gerber rose to the challenge of creating
a floating suspension to prevent these beautifully executed dials, a mere 0.60 mm thin, from
breaking. All these watches are driven by his
Calibre 42 with synchronised triple rotors.
Movement | Calibre 42 with synchronised triple rotors
on an ETA 2824-2 base, 36 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800
Dial | painted porcelain
Case | 18k red or white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø
83
Perrelet
CLASSIC
TURBINE PILOT
Taking aeronautics as its cue, Perrelet's new Turbine
Pilot collection associates the Turbine concept with
a circular aviation slide rule. The bidirectional inner
bezel is actuated by the crown at 3 o'clock while
time is set by an integrated crown at 9 o'clock.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture P-331 calibre,
hollowed oscillating weight
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, bidirectional
rotating inner bezel, circular slide rule
Dial | black turbine (12 titanium blades), sapphire dial
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 48 mm ø, 13.65 mm
84
Piaget
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
ALTIPLANO 38MM 900P
LIMELIGHT BLOOMING ROSE
The thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this
Altiplano celebrates the 140th anniversary of Piaget
and its expertise in ultra-thin watches. A tribute
to its 23 extra-thin movements, including the
legendary 9P and 12P, and to twelve world records
for thinness, this new model fuses movement
and case, even using the back of the case as the
mainplate. Shaving off vital millimetres, the entire
mechanism and hands do not exceed the thickness
of the balance, while the offset dial showing hours
and minutes is set in the bridges.
This creation offers a new interpretation of the rose,
Yves Piaget's favourite flower whose scent perfumes
the history of the brand. Like a rose in first bloom, as
the case turns 45° the petals are revealed, first four
then eight. This invisible mechanism recalls other
Piaget timepieces, such as the Limelight Magic Hour.
The black lacquered dial coordinates with the satin
strap that is held by a pin buckle set with 13 diamonds.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 900P calibre,
Functions | offset hours and minutes
Dial | open
Case | round, 18k rose gold, 38 mm ø, 3.65 mm high
Movement | quartz Manufacture 56P calibre
Dial | black
Case | rotating, 18k white gold, 256 diamonds (2.4
carats), 34 mm ø
85
Piaget
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
PIAGET ROSE PASSION SECRET WATCH
This secret watch by Piaget is a horological gem,
paved with diamonds in a snow setting. Each stone
is individually cut and adjusted to conceal every
millimetre of metal. The white gold petals cluster
together to form a sparkling bloom with a sapphire
at its centre. The satin strap fastens with a folding
clasp set with 40 diamonds.
Movement | quartz Manufacture 56P calibre
Dial | silvered
Case | rose-shaped, 18k white gold, 667 diamonds (8.3
carats) and a sapphire (0.4 carat)
86
Pita Barcelona
Presentation of the model in computer graphics.
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
ROADSTER CHRONOGRAPH
Aniceto Jiménez Pita, a self-taught watchmaker with
a number of patents to his name, took inspiration
from car racing for his Roadster Chronograph. The
bullhead case, minimalist dashboard dial, oversized,
integrated pushers, and the use of high-tech
materials generally reserved for Formula 1 cars in
a case that weighs a mere 15 grams set this watch
apart. Limited edition of 99 per year.
Movement | modified Valgrange chronograph calibre,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on a disc at
5 o'clock, date in an aperture at 4 o'clock, chronograph
with centre seconds, 30-minute counter and 12-hour
counter
Dial | multi-layer construction
Case | aluminium-lithium alloy, closed back or sapphire
back, 44 mm ø, 13 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
87
Ralph Lauren
WOMEN'S
88
DESIGN
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
867 DIAMOND
STIRRUP PETITE LINK DIAMOND FULL PAVÉ
Named after the brand's New York flagship
store at 867 Madison Avenue, the Ralph Lauren
867 collection offers a modern interpretation of
glamorous Art Deco. This year's Ralph Lauren 867
Diamond is reinterpreted with a diamond-laden
bracelet. With its distinctive arabesque-inspired
architecture and an abundance of precious stones,
this horological gem scintillates in an ocean of more
than 400 diamonds.
Stirrup, the iconic Ralph Lauren collection, brings
the equestrian world to watchmaking. The new
line within the collection, Stirrup Petite Link, with
cases measuring just 23.30 by 27 mm, borrows the
flowing, feminine aesthetic of a bracelet with interlocking links. The Diamond Full Pavé model is fully
set with diamonds on its case and bracelet for a
most precious Fine Jewellery vision of the measurement of time.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RL430 calibre,
power reserve
Movement | quartz
Dial | white lacquered
Dial | white lacquered
Case | white gold with diamonds, diamond-set bracelet
and clasp, 27.50 x 27.50 mm, 5.70 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres
Case | white gold with diamonds, diamond-set bracelet
and clasp, 23.30 x 27 mm, 6.70 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
Richard Mille
WOMEN'S
TECHNICAL
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
RM 07-01 LADIES
RM 19-01 TOURBILLON NATALIE PORTMAN
Richard Mille puts women in the spotlight for
2014. One of the year's new launches, this watch
is the mechanical synthesis between Haute Horlogerie elegance and the innovative materials the
brand so loves. The new skeletonised in-house
calibre features a mainplate and bridges in grade
5 titanium, in addition to a variable-inertia balance
and a variable-geometry rotor. The patented crown
construction ensures additional protection against
shocks. An openworked dial with diamond-set
centre adds a final flourish of exclusivity.
Actress Natalie Portman has been a partner to the
Richard Mille brand since 2011. This is her first
collaboration with the watchmaker, focused on the
mystical image of the spider. Accordingly, a spider
in rhodium-plated white gold, set with diamonds,
forms an integral part of the movement as its
abdomen supports the tourbillon bridges while its
legs support the two barrels. Visible through the
sapphire back, the calibre is assembled on a black
rhodium-plated white gold mainplate, set with black
sapphires. Limited edition of 20.
Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture CRMA2
calibre, 29.90 x 22.00 mm, 4.92 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RM19-01
calibre, black sapphires on the mainplate, tourbillon,
Functions | offset hours and minutes, tourbillon, powerreserve indicator
Dial | open-worked, gem-set
Dial | open, diamond-set spider
Case | tripartite tonneau, red gold and white ceramic,
sapphire back, 45.66 x 31.40 mm, 11.85 mm high, waterresistant to 50 metres
Case | tripartite tonneau, rose gold, diamonds on the bezel,
caseband and crown, sapphire back, 46.40 x 38.30 mm,
89
Richard Mille
TECHNICAL
90
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
RM 35-01 RAFAEL NADAL
RM 63-01 DIZZY HANDS
Rafael Nadal again provides inspiration for a new
timepiece which matches the spirit of the legendary
RM 027 with a case in NTPT® carbon, a recent breakthrough by Richard Mille. This distinctive, high-tech
material consists of layers of carbon filament, impregnated with resin and positioned at 45° angles. The
result is an incredibly durable material. The new
RMUL3 calibre offers the same exceptional shockresistance thanks to grade 5 titanium.
A new complication in watchmaking, these dizzy
hands transform time into a mesmerising display.
When the crown is depressed, the hour numerals
on a sapphire crystal disc rotate counter-clockwise
while the hour hand continues to turn clockwise,
but at a different speed. Order is restored when the
crown is pressed a second time. The completely
new calibre is a marvel of mechanical complexity
and an object of great beauty.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RMUL3 calibre,
Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture CRMA3
calibre, 31 mm ø, 6.67 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Dial | open
Dial | open
Case | tripartite tonneau, NTPT® carbon, 49.94 x 42.00 mm,
Case | round, 18k red gold and titanium, sapphire back,
42.70 mm ø, 11.70 mm high
Roger Dubuis
CLASSIC
CLASSIC
HOMMAGE AUTOMATIC
HOMMAGE CHRONOGRAPH
2014 is the year of the Hommage collection at
Roger Dubuis. Hallmarked with the Poinçon de
Genève, as is the brand's entire production, these
timepieces are a tribute to fine watchmaking and
to Roger Dubuis himself, the "soulmaker" of the
Manufacture who launched a first Hommage watch
in 1995. This self-winding version lends a contemporary touch to this classic collection which takes its
rightful place in the Roger Dubuis catalogue.
This chronograph from the new Hommage
collection is Roger Dubuis' unique interpretation of
a classically styled watch. Elegant and functional, it
retains the powerful aesthetic for which the brand
is renowned. Rectangular pusher, sunray guilloché
dial, a concave bezel juxtaposed with the flange,
sleek Roman numerals… all these elements allude
to a watchmaking heritage which Roger Dubuis
skilfully engineers for the future.
Movement | self-winding Manufacture calibre RD620
with micro-rotor, 13¾ lines, 4.50 mm high, 184 parts,
28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power
reserve, Poinçon de Genève
Movement | self-winding Manufacture RD680 calibre
with micro-rotor, 13¾ lines, 6.30 mm high, 261 parts,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock,
chronograph with centre seconds and 30-minute
counter at 3 o'clock
Dial | sunray guilloché, silvered and charcoal grey
background
Dial | sunray guilloché, silvered and charcoal grey
background
Case | white gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 42 mm ø,
Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised
on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres
91
Roger Dubuis
CLASSIC
HOMMAGE DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON
The double flying tourbillon is a signature of Roger
Dubuis, already presented in the Excalibur range
and in particular as a skeleton model. This year
the brand introduces the double flying tourbillon
to its Hommage collection. So as to emphasise its
mechanical beauty, the display is deliberately simple
while the hand-cut, guilloché dial accentuates the
double escapement with differential. Furthermore,
the hand guilloché is unique to each piece, making
every watch one of a kind.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RD102 calibre in
rose gold, hand-guilloché front and back, double flying
tourbillon, 16 lines, 8.80 mm high, 452 parts, 21,600
vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve,
Poinçon de Genève
Functions | hours, minutes, double flying tourbillon with
differential
Dial | the hand-cut, deep guilloché mainplate replaces
the dial
Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised
on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 45 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres
92
CLASSIC
HOMMAGE FLYING TOURBILLON TRIBUTE
TO MR ROGER DUBUIS
This is Roger Dubuis' tribute to its founding father,
Mr Roger Dubuis, maker of the very first Hommage
watch in 1995. As such, it shares the same functions
as a watch which Mr Dubuis launched in 2003,
namely a flying tourbillon – a complication for which
the brand is renowned – with a power reserve and
a large date in a window. The result is a watch of
great elegance, distinguished by the contrast of
alternating circles on the dial. A limited edition of
208, in reference to Mr Dubuis' registration number
when a pupil at the Geneva Watchmaking School.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture calibre RD540,
flying tourbillon, 15 lines, 5.70 mm high, 293 parts,
Functions | hours, minutes, instantaneous large date,
power-reserve indicator, flying tourbillon
Dial | lacquered white, powder minute circle and Roger
Dubuis transfers
Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature engraved
on the case back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres
Rolex
CLASSIC
CELLINI DUAL TIME
The new Cellini collection celebrates Rolex's watchmaking tradition. In a single glance, the owner of this
Dual Time model takes in time at home and time
elsewhere in the world. The gold-rimmed subdial
at 6 o'clock shows minutes and hours in a second
time zone, while a sun or moon symbol transits an
aperture to indicate day or night. On the main dial,
large sword-shaped hands give local time, which can
be independently set in successive jumps without
disturbing the chronometric precision of the selfwinding movement.
calibre with Parachrom balance spring, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone
at 6 o'clock with day/night indication
Dial | guilloché silver
Case / 18k white gold, 39 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres
TECHNICAL
WOMEN'S
OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST
PEARLMASTER 34
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34
watches are the first to be equipped with the new
2236 calibre with Syloxi silicon balance spring for
improved chronometric performance. Entirely
developed in-house, this movement marks the
beginning of a new generation of lady's watch
calibres from Rolex. Like all its Perpetual movements,
the 2236 is a certified Swiss chronometer, having
passed the tests of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des
Chronomètres (COSC).
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture 2236 calibre with Syloxi silicon balance spring with
patented geometry, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, instantaneous date,
stop seconds
Dial | 18k yellow gold, 455 diamonds
Case | Oyster, 18k yellow gold, bezel set with 12 baguettecut pink sapphires and 24 baguette-cut light pink sapphires,
93
Romain Gauthier
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
LOGICAL ONE SECRET
Romain Gauthier's Logical One was a much talkedabout launch in 2013. Featuring a constant-force
fusee-and-chain transmission with ruby chain links,
push-button winding and sapphire inserts in the
barrel, it has four patents to its name. Now the
Logical One returns with a hinged cover which
reveals hours and minutes, and seconds, through an
opening. A cover that offers a fabulous blank canvas
for the different métiers d’art such as gem-setting.
Movement | Manufacture calibre with push-button
winding and fusee-and-chain constant-force mechanism, 333 parts, 35.50 mm ø, 10.50 mm high, 28,800
Functions | offset hours, minutes and small seconds
Dial | fusee-and-chain mechanism and balance on the
front with time indications on two offset subdials
Case | 5N red gold, fully gem-set cover with opening,
94
Speake-Marin
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
SPIRIT SEAFIRE CHRONOGRAPH
MAGISTER TOURBILLON
Peter Speake-Marin fills a chronograph-shaped
gap in his collections with the new Spirit Seafire.
It is named after the Supermarine Seafire, a naval
version of the Spitfire and the first plane to defend
the British Royal Navy fleet, as of 1942. Its titanium
namesake is equally at home with casual attire and
more formal wear, and stands out for its exceptionally legible dial.
Peter Speake-Marin's first ever timepiece was a
pocket watch with tourbillon, a complication which
has since become one of the master watchmaker's
signatures. This Magister Tourbillon wristwatch
incorporates a titanium case and is automatically wound by micro-rotor. Whereas a traditional
Haute Horlogerie tourbillon takes two weeks to
assemble, the movement of the Magister Tourbillon
is designed to be assembled and regulated in just
two days. A feat of technique that is set to make
its mark.
Movement | self-winding C99001-D chronograph
reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on a disc at 9
o'clock, date, chronograph with centre seconds, minute
and hour counters
Movement | self-winding SM3 calibre with micro-rotor,
30.40 mm ø, 5.40 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour
tourbillon
Dial | mat black, resin base
Dial | white lacquered, multi-level
Case | Piccadilly, grade 5 titanium, 42 mm ø, 15 mm high,
Case | Piccadilly, grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 42 mm ø,
95
Speake-Marin
DESIGN
VELSHEDA
The Velsheda is a completely redesigned version
of the Shimoda with a single hand. The rotation of
the central seconds wheel provides a visual contrast
with the slow sweep of the solitary, double-ended
hand which points to hours and minutes on the
compass-like dial. This is a minimalistic display of
time, considered as much in terms of aesthetic as
functionality. The back view reveals the movements
of Speake-Marin's signature "mystery" rotor.
Movement | self-winding Eros calibre, 30.40 mm ø,
4.35 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours and minutes by a single hand, seconds
on a central wheel
Dial | white lacquered, multi-level
Case | Piccadilly, stainless steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø,
96
TAG Heuer
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
MONACO V4 TOURBILLON
CARRERA CALIBRE 5 DAY-DATE AUTOMATIC
TAG Heuer has moved to the next level and
combined drive belts that are no thicker than
a human hair – a technology that took years to
develop – with watchmaking's most iconic complication: the tourbillon. The result is the Monaco V4
Tourbillon, the first ever tourbillon with micro-belt
transmission. It marks the tenth anniversary of the
original V4, presented to the world as a concept
watch with belt-drive transmission, a linear mass
and ball bearings. Once again, TAG Heuer breaks
with established watchmaking conventions.
The newcomer to the Carrera Calibre 5 range, this
Day-Date comes in a 41 mm diameter case that
captures the very essence of the Carrera. The hour
markers, hands, date aperture and logo, all rose
gold-plated and hand-applied, accentuate this classic
touch while ensuring the dial is perfectly legible, a
trademark of the Carrera and a loyal tribute to Jack
Heuer's original design.
Movement | self-winding linear tourbillon calibre, 214
parts, 31.50 x 35 mm, 9.26 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/
Movement | self-winding 5 calibre, 26 mm ø, 28,800
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock
on the second wheel, belt-driven one-minute tourbillon
Case | polished grade 5 titanium with black titanium
carbide coating, sapphire back, 41 x 41 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres
Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day and date in
apertures
Dial | silvered opaline
Case | polished steel, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, waterresistant to 100 metres
97
Ulysse Nardin
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
DUAL TIME MANUFACTURE
CLASSICO HORSE
From the time it was launched, the Dual Time
Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin made its mark.
This was the first time a second time zone could
be adjusted both forwards and backwards. Today
it returns, driven by a self-winding movement which
has been designed, developed and manufactured
entirely in-house: the UN-334 calibre. In addition to
a large date in two apertures, also adjustable in both
directions, it benefits from a silicon escapement.
Indeed, Ulysse Nardin was one of the first to master
silicon technology in watchmaking.
Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to the horse's
independent spirit with this Classico Horse. The
Manufacture has applied the complex technique
of champlevé enamel, where cavities are chiselled
directly into the dial before filling them with enamel.
The earth-tone palette of blacks, whites, browns,
greys and greens, created from different metal
oxides, magnificently brings to life the landscape
and the galloping horses. The dial is fired to fuse the
enamel to the metal, allowed to cool then polished
by expert hands. The result is breathtaking. Limited
edition of 88.
Movement | self-winding UN-334 calibre, silicon
escapement and balance spring, 28,800 vibrations/hour
Functions | local hours and minutes in the centre, second
time zone (home time) over 24 hours in an aperture,
oversized small seconds, large date in a double aperture
98
Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding UN-815
calibre, 42-hour power reserve
Dial | black
Dial | horse in champlevé enamel
Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres
Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, waterresistant to 50 metres
Ulysse Nardin
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
IMPERIAL BLUE
Boasting a sapphire mainplate and bridges to show
off the full beauty of the tourbillon, this "luminous"
watch contains a grande sonnerie with Westminster
chimes that sounds the hours in passing on four
notes, but also the hours, quarters and minutes
on demand. Controlling the energy supply was
undoubtedly the major difficulty when crafting this
Imperial Blue. The sounding of the passing hours
and of hours, quarters and minutes on demand is
powered by the same barrel, which is either partially
wound by activating the repeater slide at 9 o'clock
on the caseband, or fully wound by turning the
crown anti-clockwise. Turning the crown clockwise
winds a second barrel which supplies energy to the
movement with its 50-hour power reserve. Limited
edition of 20.
Movement | hand-wound UN-970 calibre, 50-hour
power reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, date, one-minute flying
tourbillon, grande sonnerie with Westminster chimes
Dial | sapphire plate and bridges
Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 46 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres
99
Urwerk
TECHNICAL
EMC
EMC, short for Electro Mechanical Control, is the
first precision mechanical watch whose chronometric performance can be monitored and adjusted
by the wearer. At the touch of a button, the owner
of the watch has access to information previously
reserved for professional watchmakers. This data
can then be used to fine-tune the mechanism in
complete security. The EMC has a triple objective:
to show how external factors (positional changes,
temperature and pressure) influence the balancespring assembly, to enable the wearer to adjust the
movement themselves, and to encourage interactivity between the timepiece and its owner.
Movement | hand-wound UR-EMC calibre, linear
balance coupled to an optical sensor, 28,800 vibrations/
hour frequency, 80-hour power reserve. Artificial intelligence: Maxon generator with manual winding, optical
sensor linked to the mechanical balance, 16,000,000 Hz
electronic oscillator
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, precision
delta, power-reserve indicator, timing adjustment screw
Case | titanium and steel, sapphire back, 43 x 51 mm,
100
Vacheron Constantin
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
MALTE TOURBILLON OPENWORKED
Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, this new timepiece
presents a tourbillon within a completely skeletonised form movement. Demonstrating the full
extent of their skill, the Manufacture's craftsmen
have transformed the surfaces of the different parts
of the movement. Depending how it is angled,
contrasts of dark and light appear in the depth of
the mechanism, further accentuated by the threedimensional effect of the architectural decor that
stems from a new approach to hand-engraving.
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE 14-DAY
TOURBILLON OPENWORKED
This watch weaves a bond between past and
present, as the tourbillon complication and the art
of skeletonisation, both of which originated in the
early nineteenth century, take on new life inside
a resolutely contemporary design, accentuated
by the three-dimensional effect of the movement
architecture and the Gothic-inspired decoration. An
elegant slate-grey ring carries the white gold hour
markers. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève.
Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 2790
SQ calibre, 27.37 x 29.30 mm, 6.10 mm high, 246
parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power
Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture 2260
SQ calibre, tourbillon, 29.10 mm ø, 6.80 mm high, 231
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power
reserve, date, tourbillon
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power
reserve, tourbillon
Dial | skeleton
Dial | skeleton
Case | tonneau, 950 platinum, sapphire back, 38 x 48.24 mm,
Case | round, 950 platinum, sapphire back, 42 mm ø,
101
Vacheron Constantin
DESIGN
MÉTIERS D’ART MÉCANIQUES AJOURÉES
Built around one of Vacheron Constantin's iconic
movements, the 4400 calibre, this sculptural watch
with its transparent and arched construction evokes
the major European railway stations from the
golden age of the industrial revolution. The skeletonised mechanism – almost half the material has
been removed compared with the solid movement
– is further embellished by the stunning handengraving, then accentuated by the outer ring
in opaque Grand Feu enamel. The Roman hour
numerals are inspired by the shape of those on
nineteenth-century station clocks.
Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 4400
SQ calibre, 28.60 mm ø, 2.80 mm high, 127 parts, 28,800
Poinçon de Genève
DESIGN
MÉTIERS D’ART FABULEUX ORNEMENTS
OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE
A tribute to the métiers d'art that reign within the
Manufacture, and bearing the Poinçon de Genève,
this watch sets its extra-thin, skeletonised and
engraved movement inside a decor inspired by
Middle Eastern ornamentation. The hand-bevelled,
rose gold dial borrows the form of a moucharaby
(lattice window), studded with pearls and delicately
set against white mother-of-pearl. The milgrain
decoration on the rings is unprecedented in watchmaking. Limited edition of 20.
Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 1003SQ
calibre, 21.1 mm ø, 1.64 mm high, 117 parts, 18,000
Poinçon de Genève
Dial | open, opaque grey Grand Feu enamel ring
Dial | open, hand-bevelled, natural white motherof-pearl under an openworked gold plate set with
half-pearls
Case | round, 18k white gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø,
Case | round, 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 37 mm ø,
102
WOMEN'S
Van Cleef & Arpels
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
DESIGN
POETIC COMPLICATION MIDNIGHT
PLANETARIUM
EXTRAORDINARY DIAL MIDNIGHT
NUIT BORÉALE
A wrist-borne universe: this new Poetic Complication replicates the position of six planets and
their movement around the Sun in the same time as
their heavenly counterparts. Earth, Mercury, Venus,
Mars, Jupiter and Saturn are each represented by
a hand-carved hard stone, and brought to life by
an extraordinarily complex mechanism. While Mars
takes 687 days to orbit the dial, Mercury does so in
just 88 days. Time is shown by a shooting star which
circles the edge of the dial. Day, month and year are
displayed in two apertures in the back of the case.
Imagined as a picture of the heavens in miniature,
this extraordinary dial offers a lesson in Greek
mythology. A fearsome creature watches over the
Golden Fleece; Cassiopeia makes a proud figure;
Zeus takes the form of a swan to seduce Leda; the
Great Bear and the Little Bear evoke Callisto, the
nymph transformed by Hera, and her son Arcas.
They are portrayed in grisaille enamel, a technique
which creates dramatic effects of light and shadow,
spotlighted with dots of yellow gold.
Movement | self-winding mechanical movement with
module by Christiaan van der Klaauw, developed for
Van Cleef & Arpels, totalling 396 parts
Functions | hours, minutes, day, month, year, movement
of six planets around the Sun reproduced in real time
Dial | rose gold, aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite,
turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite
Case | round, 18k rose gold, 44 mm diameter
Movement | self-winding mechanical
Dial | grisaille enamel, yellow gold
Case | round, 18k white gold, 42 mm ø, crown set with
an enamel cabochon
103
Van Cleef & Arpels
WOMEN'S
DESIGN
TECHNICAL
CLASSIC
EXTRAORDINARY DIAL LADY ARPELS
ZODIAC LEO
PIERRE ARPELS HEURE D’ICI ET
HEURE D’AILLEURS
This new timepiece is one of twelve that echo a
collection of medallions depicting the signs of the
zodiac, which Van Cleef & Arpels proposed in the
1950s. With Fire as its element, this Leo watch is
hand-engraved then covered with translucent red
enamel. Diamonds and inlay of sculpted mother-ofpearl join the gold appliques to complete the dial
to perfection. The corresponding constellation is
engraved on the back of the case.
The Pierre Arpels collection welcomes its first
complication watch. It has the restrained elegance
that distinguishes the Pierre Arpels line, but beneath
lies the complexity of a dual time zone display, and
an original indication of time by means of double
jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The Heure
d’ici – home time – appears in an aperture at the
top of the dial. The Heure d’ailleurs – the second
time zone – is shown in an aperture lower on the
dial. They simultaneously jump thanks to a single
sector that synchronises the two hour discs and the
retrograde minute hand. With the same concern for
crisp elegance, a single crown winds the movement,
and sets both time zones and the minutes.
Movement | hand-wound mechanical
Movement | self-winding mechanical, developed by
Agenhor for Van Cleef & Arpels
Functions | double jumping hours, retrograde minutes
Dial | yellow gold, white gold, yellow and white
diamonds, translucent enamel, mother-of-pearl
Dial | white lacquer, piqué motif
Case | round, 18k white gold set with diamonds, 38 mm ø
104
Case | round, 18k white gold, 42 mm ø, crown set with
diamonds
Vianney Halter
TECHNICAL
DESIGN
DEEP SPACE TOURBILLON
Vianney Halter takes watchmaking to the final frontier
with the Deep Space Tourbillon. Protected beneath
a sapphire dome, a triple-axis tourbillon spins in the
centre of the watch, circled by a classic "railroad"
scale. Two hands in blued steel emerge from the
edge of the watch to curve above the tourbillon
which spins once in 40 seconds. It is mounted in an
ultra-lightweight structure that rotates in six minutes
around a second axis, perpendicular to the tourbillon
carriage. The entire mechanism is mounted in a
cradle that spins horizontally in 30 minutes.
Movement | hand-wound Manufacture VH 113 calibre
with triple-axis tourbillon, 21,600 vibrations/hour
Functions | hours, minutes, triple-axis tourbillon
Case | titanium, 46 mm ø, 19 mm high, water-resistant
to 30 metres
105
Zenith
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
EL PRIMERO 410
EL PRIMERO LIGHTWEIGHT
Collectors are well-acquainted with the movement
that beats inside this latest model from Zenith: the
Calibre 410. Launched in 1969 as a variation on the
legendary El Primero, it combines the performance
of one of the most precise series-produced, selfwinding chronographs with a triple calendar and
moon phases. This new interpretation of an eternal
favourite matches past with present: the dial layout
is true to the vintage model while the case can claim
an undeniably contemporary design.
Zenith has chosen high-tech materials for this sportsstyled version of the legendary El Primero chrono
with the aim of shedding weight and boosting
performance. Firstly, the movement bridges are
machined from lightweight but also hard-wearing
titanium. The lever and escape wheel are in silicon,
which has anti-magnetic properties, is three and a
half times lighter than conventional alloys, harder
than steel and delivers excellent performance. As
for the carbon and aluminium case with titanium
pushers and crown, it reveals the true nature of this
ultra-sporty chrono. Limited edition of 250.
Movement | self-winding El Primero 410 calibre, 390 parts,
30 mm ø, 6.60 mm high, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency,
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, full calendar
with day, date and month, moon phases, 1/10th-second
counter, 12-hour counter, tachymeter scale
Dial | sunray silvered
Case | steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.75 mm high,
106
Movement | self-winding El Primero 400B calibre,
328 parts, 30 mm ø, 6.60 mm high, 36,000 vibrations/
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date,
1/10th-second chronograph with centre seconds hand,
30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Dial | skeletonised on a titanium plate, counters in three
colours
Case | carbon, 45 mm ø
Zenith
DESIGN
CLASSIC
TECHNICAL
PILOT TYPE 20 GRAND FEU
EL PRIMERO SYNOPSIS
The new Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is powered by
Calibre 5011K, a movement that made history in
the 1960s by beating every record for precision in
its category. The transparent case middle and back
allow a clear view of this hand-wound mechanical
movement. The 60 mm diameter offers ample scope
for exceptional finishing. The sides and back of the
movement, as well as the gold lugs and bezel, are
hand-engraved and chased across their entire surface
with scrolls and garland patterns in the spirit of traditional fine watchmaking. Limited edition of 10.
The El Primero Synopsis capitalises on a legendary
movement and stays true to several Zenith style
signatures. Hours, minutes and small seconds, at
9 o'clock, are precisely displayed thanks to the El
Primero 4613 calibre which beats at a frequency
of 36,000 vibrations/hour. The regulating organ,
driven by a silicon escapement, is visible through an
opening in the dial. Avant-garde silicon represents
a major breakthrough in mechanical watchmaking's
quest to eliminate the need for lubricant.
Movement | hand-wound El Primero 5011K calibre, 134
reserve
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, powerreserve indicator
Movement | self-winding El Primero 4613 calibre, silicon
lever and escape wheel, 160 parts, 36,000 vibrations/
Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with trident hand
Dial | silvered, open on the regulating organ
Case | sapphire case middle and back, bezel, lugs and
crown in hand-engraved and chased white gold, 60 mm ø
Case | steel, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, water-resistant to
100 metres
107
Impressum
Avenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | Switzerland
Tel +41 22 705 83 00 | Fax +41 22 705 84 95
hautehorlogerie.org
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie research and study centre
Grégory Gardinetti, Christophe Roulet, Emmanuel Schneider, Fabio Teta
Contributor | Anne-Marie Belcari
Publication coordinator | Julien Pfister, Déborah Godat
English translation | Sandra Petch
Graphic design | atelier zuppinger
Printing | Graphic Services SA
108
Avenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | Switzerland
Tel +41 22 705 83 00 | Fax +41 22 705 84 95
hautehorlogerie.org

in Fine Watchmaking for - Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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