Good Housekeeping
Transcription
Good Housekeeping
LOOK GOOD* PENELOPE: I've erased my forehead lines rid Phot og raphs by SllANNON GREER Janu ary 2013 GOOD HOU SEKEEP ING 49 *LOOK GOOD Sun Smarts Penelope Kulko ''My crow'sfeet,forehead lines, and the lip lines that ruin my lipstick ove1· the cou1·se ofthe day," said Kulko. '?it 50, I began enjoying life more than ever, and I embmced my white shock ofhair. But I notice my wrinkles more now, and others probably do, too! I've used serums, but I've never really sensed that any ofthem were doing much." THE PROBLEM • THE FIX Fractional laser, specifically Fraxel Dual, for three sessions (about $1,000 each). The laser heats skin deep down in a pixelated pattern, stimulating collagen synthesis. Side effects are minimal: a sunburn-like redness for a few days, and flaking for up to a week. • HER EXPERIENCE New York City dermatologist Anne Chapas, M.D., treated Kulka's skin. After numbing the area with a lidocaine gel, Dr. Chapas ran the handheld laser device all over Kulka's face, targeting spots and lines. Kulka's skin was a bit red afterward, but not WRINKLES SPOTS bad enough to prevent her from attending her daughter's trumpet recital that night. Dark spots flaked off within a few days (building up collagen to minimize wrinkles takes at least four weeks). A month after Kulka's second treatment, many of her spots had returned, though she diligently used sunscreen and wore a hat. "She came to the office for her third treatment, and she was tan!" says Dr. Chapas. "The sun's a no-no. I decided to postpone her last treatment till after summer was over." • TESTING TIME 16 weeks PORES ROUGHNESS A LOOK AT LINES The Visia Skin Analyzer marks wrinkles with green lines. Kulko's "after" shows improvement after 16 weeks. 50 GOOD 1-lOU SEKEEP ING J anuary2013 l;flf1i!Uj "My crow's feet disappeared," says Kulko. "Frankly, I saw a dramatic difference after just the first treatment, but after three, the change is wonderful: My skin is smoother and more even in tone. It's softer and firmer to the touch. I am thrilled, in large part because Fraxel is based on the skin doing the repair work itself, without surgery or injections:' • PRO'S TAKE "Kulko had the most dramatic improvements;' says Mary Clarke, senior product analyst at the Good Housekeeping Research Institute. "Her forehead lines are practically gone." The testers who tried all-over face treatments used an Aveeno daily moisturizer with SPF 30 ($15, drugstores) daily, and a few even upped coverage to a La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF so sunscreen ($33, CVS). Some still got more spots, showing the power of incidental sun exposure during the summer (our testing period). Renova and Fraxel were the most successful at reversing spots and evening skin tone. 0 0 ~ ...-'0. u "' :::) :I -, ......Ci a l.? z z z 0 4 ::t "'ii_ .e E J LOOK GOOD* MARIA: Botox, yes. Frozen face, nope! Maria . Morningstar u 0 .. . I ci Ul Ul ""'0z z z ~ I "' l;!fjl!§lti "llike the sub- "My.furrow. I'm a very happy person, but it makes me look angry," said MoTningstaT. 'T can be smiling.from eaT to eaT, and people will ask me ifI'm upset. The only thing upsetting me is this.furmw!" THE PROBLEM • THE FIX Botulinum toxin A, or Botox (about $400) is injected into muscles to block nerve impulses and impede contractions. Results typically last three to four months. • HER EXPERIENCE Dr. Chapas treated the "elevens" between Morningstar's eyebrows with five injections. "They felt like small pinches;' says Morningstar. Bruising is possible, but she had none. Botox takes a week to kick in, with a one- to two-week follow-up to check results. At Morningstar's second appointment, Dr. Chapas injected Morningstar's forehead twice to soften those lines as well-an extra youthrestoring boost. • TESTING TIME One week tlety," says Morningstar. "I even fooled my 15-yearold daughter's dermatologist, who treats her acne. My daughter told the doc she suspected I'd had Botox. The doc studied me and said, 'Your mom has too much facial expression to have had Botox."' THE PRO'S TAKE When Morningstar's face is at rest, the furrow is gone, but she can still frown if she wants to. "I think this is the ultimate Botoxnot that frozen Hollywood look;' says Dr. Chapas. Janu ary 2013 GOOD HOU SEKEEP ING 53 *LOOK GOOD Natalie Neusch '1 grew up in South Florida and was a sun baby," said Neusch. "The damage I did in my youth is now making its gmnd appeamnce, especially in the crow'sfeet around my eyes." THE PROBLEM • THE FIX A prescrip- tion retinoid- Renova .02% (by prescription, up to $300; generic, in varying concentrations, costs less than $100). It's the gold standard of topical wrinkle fighters, a vitamin A derivative proven to build collagen. It r educes spots, too. Daily sun protection is required ; retinoids increase skin's sun sensitivity. • HER EXPERIENCE It's customary to begin by using this potentially irritating treatment every other night, which acclimates the skin to it. Neusch used the lotion nightly and had no redness or flaking. Applying a moisturizer on top of Dolores Hennessy '1 have deep-set lines around my mouth that make my cheeks look like they are sagging/' said Hennessy. ''My husband calls them laugh lines from 23 years of blissful marriage-sweet, but not so funny!" THE PROBLEM the retinoid helped with the dryness she felt now and then. She used sunscreen every morning. • TESTING TIME 12 weeks Hennessy's upper cheeks with Restylane- L. "I call this the trifecta: It lifts the lower eyelid, boosts the jawline, and flattens the nasolabial fold:' Since Hennessy's left one was deeper, Dr. Brandt injected it directly with Belotero, a softer filler. Hennessy was sore for about 36 hours. i;j@IIUj "My crow's feet look less noticeable," says Neusch. "I hadn't realized how many sun spots I h ad until they started fading, and then the change was obvious. I got a number of compliments out of the blue, including one from my mom-she said my skin looked great and asked what I was using!" • PRO'S TAKE The wrinkles around Neusch's eyes, which the Visia marked with green lines below, have softened. • TESTING TIME One visit; immediate. 54 G 0 0 D 1-l 0 USE KEEPING J anuary PORES 201 3 ROUGHNESS <I "' Ul Ul "'~ ....1 u N 0 0 '0 ~ v; z <I l: Ul fillers made from hyaluronic acid. They fill out fine lines and add back volume to areas like lips. Results last six to nine months, depending on the filler (typically $500 to $700 per syringe). l;)ilfiiiUj "I thought • HER EXPERIENCE is plumped up;' says Clarke. "Her eyes also look significantly younger; the fine lines underneath are smoother." the lines around my mouth would be entirely gone;' says Hennessy. "The treatment's not a magic wand." a ,....::::; ,.::t ~ ·c "' E 2 0 ..0 E • PRO'S TAKE "The area TREAT YOURSELF SPOTS ,."'"' 0 • THE FIX Inject able Cheek sagging does contribute to those nose-tomouth creases, explains New York City dermatologist Fredric Brandt, M.D., who injected WRINKLES vi 0 For more science·backed tips on how to turn back the clock, buy our new book, 7 Years Younger, a seven·week DIY program of skin c are, diet, and more. Available wherever books are sold. Find out more at lyearsyounger.com. 1 ~ ~ 0 u ,; ~ g. io 0 0 ~ Cl. LOOK GOOD* Sherry Terrell 'T'd like to work on my craw's feet," said Terrell, who began the test with significant wrinkling-she ranked in the bottom 20%joT heT age group. THE PROBLEM Karen Gershenhorn 'Tn ordeT ofimportance: lip lines, cmw sfeet and the fine lines under my eyes, the lines between my eyes, and the lines acmss my forehead," said Gershenhorn. THE PROBLEM • THE FIX A retinol se- WRINKLES ci 0 , 'ii Vl z 4 2: 0 ~ "' LL c. :J :rc. 0 4 "'4z 4 ~ ::t "';; . ..r:; a. :;, SPOTS • THE FIX SkinMedica 1NS Essential Serum ($260 , skinmedica.com for physicians' offices and spas). It contains growth factors, proteins taken from cell cultures that induce collagen production. The formula also relies on peptides and protective antioxidants to target skin renewal. • HER EXPERIENCE Terrell applied the treatment twice a day, morning and evening. In the A.M., she followed up with an SPF 30 sunscreen. In the P.M., she applied a plain moisturizer over the serum. • TESTING TIME 12 weeks 0 0 ..r:; a. a. ,9 l;jif"JIIUi "The sm ell of the serum is a bit PORES ROUGHNESS medicinal;' says Terrell. "It didn't bother me, but my husband didn't like it. After 12 weeks, my skin looks better and more youthful, and my craw's feet have improved. My sister-in-law, who knew I was trying a new product, observed that my skin was smoother." • PRO'S TAKE "The lines around her eyes are less prominent;' says Clarke. The Visia shows this with fewer- and shortergreen lines (representing wrinkles) in the "after" image. In addition, ''her skin's texture has become more even. Her spots and visible pores worsened, though, the spots likely from summertime sun;' Clarke adds. rum: Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM ($65, Sephora). Unlike most of its competitors, this one specifies the concentration of its main anti-ager, retinol (1.5%). It's milder than the Rx, but it, too, revs up collagen production, reduces spots-and makes skin more sensitive to the sun. • HER EXPERIENCE In the evening, Gershenhorn applied a few drops all over her face, followed by a moisturizer. In the morning, she put on a moisturizer with SPF 30. • TESTING TIME 12 weeks I say younger? A new acquaintance said, 'No, you are not 54 !'" More than one friend told me I looked well-rested, and the verdict from my group of girlfriends was that I certainly did not need the chemical peel they all planned on getting." • PRO'S TAKE "Gershenhorn really had a reduction in the fine lines under her eyes; the area looks smoother. And her forehead lines are fainter;' says Clarke. GH l;jif111Ui "I tend to get redness, so I was a bit wary of using retinol for this length of time, but I didn't h ave any problems;' says Gershenhorn. "The serum felt comfortable, not too oily, and my skin absorbed it easily. My skin looks brighter and fresher-dare WRINKLES SPOTS PORES ROUGHNESS Janu ary 2013 GOOD HOU SEKEEPING 57