Swimming Pool

Transcription

Swimming Pool

67 Illustrated Pages
Over 100 Manufacturer Toll Free Numbers
& Website Links
The Complete
Swimming Pool
Owners Manual
Everything You Need to Know About Your Pool
By: Larry Couture, Jeff Grotte and Michael Dewar
Copyright © 2009-2011 • All Rights Reserved • www.ecosmarte.com
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………..
FIGURING OUT WHAT YOU OWN……………………………..
• Equipment Sheet……………………………………...
• Chemicals on Hands…..……………………………..
POOL VOLUME……………………………………………………
POOL TALK (Size & Turnover)…………………………………
TESTING YOUR WATER………………………………………...
UNDERSTANDING COMPUTERIZED WATER ANALYSIS…
PHOSPHATES……………………………………………………..
DOES MY POOL LEAK…………………………………………..
TYPES OF IN-GROUND POOLS………………………………..
• PLASTER……………………………………………….
• VINYL……………………………………………………
• FIBERGLASS…………………………………………..
NEGATIVE edge, Infinity or Bladder Tank Pools.…………..
MAINTENANCE ITEMS…………………………………………..
FILTERS: Sand, Diatomaceous Earth, Cartridge……………
PUMPS: Sizing…………………………………………………….
VACUUMS………………………………………………………….
POOL LIGHTING…………………………………………………..
INSTALLING NEW MEDIA……………………………………….
BACKWASHING YOUR SAND FILTER………………………..
DE BACKWASHING………………………………………………
SALT POOLS or FRESHWATER POOL….……………………
ALTERNATIVE SANITIZERS…………………………………….
ALTERNATIVE SANITIZING DEVICES………………………...
AUTOCOVERS…………………………………………………….
WINTER CLOSING………………………………………………..
SOUTHERN CLOSING.…………………………………………..
SAFETY OPTIONS………………………………………………..
POOL GAMES and TOYS………………………………………..
GLOSSARY OF SWIMMING POOL TERMS…………………..
MANUFACTURERS………………………………………………
WEB URLS…………………………………………………………
TOLL-FREE SUPPORT LINES…………………………………..
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Copyright © 2011 · All Rights Reserved · www.ecosmarte.com
2
INTRODUCTION
Some of the best childhood memories, or the longest ones retained, will typically revolve around
the family swimming pool. In many areas a swimming pool is needed just to cool off. Lately
swimming pools have become an integral part of fitness or therapy.
This book is an attempt to save the reader numerous hours of time and frustration in the
operation of their pool and is the collaborative effort of over 10 pool professionals with a
combined 200 years and 20,000 swimming pools built and supported. This pool experience has
come in the vinyl markets in the north (Minnesota), the gunnite markets in the desert (Arizona),
and the moderate climate, service oriented geography of California. The book reflects, in every
case, the swimming pool owner’s perspective. As with all works of this nature, the information
includes some philosophy but the reader can be assured the books main purpose is to encourage
swimming pool ownership and provide the first comprehensive guide to owning a swimming
pool. We have looked for a document of this nature and it did not exist.
Whether you are a do-it-yourself or a hands free pool service client, we are sure – information in
this book will make your swimming pool ownership a very pleasant experience.
3
FIGURING OUT WHAT YOU OWN: SWIMMING POOL OVERVIEW
Equipment Sheet (Circle or Fill-in)
NAME:
Phone
SITE ADDRESS:
Street
SURFACE TYPE:
City
PLASTER
VINYL
State
Zip
FIBERGLASS
Finish Type
DIMENSIONS:
IF FREE FORM:
GALLONS Est.:
Perimeter (in ft. or m)
MAX DEPTH:
FILTER TYPE:
FILTER SIZE:
SAND
200 300 500 900
D/E
24 36 48 60 72
CARTRIDGE(S)
75 150 200 Other:_______________
PUMP TYPE:
¾ HP
1.0HP
1½HP
2.0HP
Other:__________
# SKIMMERS:
1
2
3
4
Other:__________
# JETS:
1
2
3
4
Other:__________
VACUUM TYPE:
Skimmer
Robot
Pressure Side Sweep
Hand Vacuum Only
VACUUM BRAND:
_________
___________
____________________
___________________
COVERS:
HEATER/HEAT PUMP:
HEATER SIZE IN BTU:
Solar
Winter
Safety
Automatic
With Reel
With Waterbags
Open Mash
Below Track
Natural Gas
120
180
Propane
265
325
Solid Mesh
Above Track
Electric
400
HEAT PUMP
Other:__________
Brand
MAIN DRAINS:
LIGHTING:
YES
IN-POOL
NO
Antisuction
PERIMETER
AUTOMATED CONTROLS:
JANDY
COMPOOL
ALTERNATIVE SANITIZERS:
SALTWATER
GENERETOR
OZONE /
OXYGEN
SPA
WATERFALL
2 Main Drains
LED
FIBEROPTIC
PENTAIR
IONIZATION
INTERMATIC
IONIZATION /
OXYGEN
Brand:
ATTACHED WATER
FEATURE:
BUILDER (If Known):
DIVING
BOARD
SLIDE
PHONE:
OTHER NOTES:
Complete this form before seeking advice or quote and bring to counter for
computerized water analysis.
4
Inventory Your Pool: Chemicals on Hand
As you calculated the number of gallons in your pool, a complete overview form for the pool is
found on the following page. Included are the most common sizes, styles, and brands. This form
will be the most helpful when buying water in for testing or making upgrades to the pool.
TEST KITS:
Please circle if applicable
pH Phenol Red
Alkalinity
Sanititizer
Cl
Br
Calcium Hardness
YES
YES
Cyanuric Acid
YES
NO
Meters (if any)
Bromethyl Blue
Cu
YES
NO
NONE
NONE
NONE
NONE
CHEMICALS:
pH UP Sodium
Bicarbonate
Soda Ash
pH DOWN Sodium Bisulfate
Muriatic Acid
Brand
ALGAECIDE
Chlorine
Bromine
Bacquacil
Other
SANITIZER
SHOCK
Chlorine
Non-Chlorine
Brand
Circle
SCALE CONTROL
Brand
METAL REMOVER
Brand
CLARIFER
Brand
HARDNESS INCREASER
BALANCE PACK
5
POOL VOLUME
To calculate the amount of water in your pool,
insert the requested measurements in the correct equation.
*You will use this number to calculate your CYCLE TIME
Rectangular Pool:
LENGTH
WIDTH
X
AVG. DEPTH
X
GALLONS
X
7.5 =
Circular Pool:
DIAMETER
AVG. DEPTH
DIAMETER
X
X
GALLONS
X
5.9 =
Oval Pool:
MAX
WIDTH
MAX
WIDTH
X
X
AVG. DEPTH
X
5.9 =
GALLONS
CYCLE TIME CALCULATION
GALLONS
=
PUMP GPM*
THIS IS
YOUR
CYCLE TIME
X 60
EXAMPLE
• To calculate your cycle
time, enter the appropriate
measurements into the
equation.
* Gallons Per Minute
(GPM) can be found on
the side of filter pump or
written within pump
instruction manual.
Usually 55 or 70 GPM.
If my pool is 40` x 20` with an average depth of 5`, and a GPM of 70, then…
40 x 20 x 5 x 7.5 = 30, 000 gallons (use this number…)
30,000 / (70 x 60) = 7.14 hour cycle (about 7 hours, 8 minutes)
6
POOL TALK: GETTING READY TO SPEAK WITH PROFESSIONALS
Turnover Cycles
Use the conversion charts on the following page to determine the time necessary for your
pump and filter to completely cycle the water in your pool once. The sanitizer requires at
least one complete cycle per day in order to maintain crystal-clear water. The time
required for one complete cycle varies among pools and setting your pump and filter to
run 1½ cycles (See Cycle Time Calculation). Running the pump during daylight hours is
necessary to achieve good results.
What Causes Algae Problems?
There are over 21,000 known varieties of algae! Algae spores constantly enter the pool,
brought in by wind, rain or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions
are right, an algae bloom can occur seemingly overnight. These conditions include
imbalanced water, warm temperatures, sunlight, and the presence of nitrates. Of course
lack of proper filtration, circulation, and sanitation may be the primary causes of algae. A
suction vacuum is highly recommended by most manufacturers, as is backwashing only
after pressure rise.
Algae are living aquatic creatures that multiply rapidly in warm, sunny conditions.
Containing chlorophyll, algae utilizes photosynthesis to grow. That is, they take in carbon
dioxide and expend oxygen as a byproduct.
The two main problems with algae are, first, people do not want to go swimming, and
second, it takes time and money to rid the water completely of algae. Algae itself is not
harmful to swimmers, but pools with algae may also be residence to other pathogens.
Proper water balance and filter maintenance are necessary to prevent algae growth. Also
regular brushing prevents dirt from harboring in the pores of your pool surface, where
algae colonies like to start. The use of specialty chemicals or algaecides may be
necessary as a back up to the sanitizer and existing filtration. Filtration upgrades will
solve 99% of these problems.
Confirming Your Cycle
Once you have calculated your turnover time you can confirm the number of operating
daylight hours needed to properly filter your pool. Whenever the swimming pool does not
look right, your pump and filter must operate 24/7 until the pool looks crystal clear. This
assumes of course that your pump and filter are properly sized.
Visiting Your Pool Store
We have enclosed pages four and five two comprehensive forms to give all of the
information you need to visit a pool store. A completed form will allow the swimming
pool professional to give you the proper advice.
7
TESTING YOUR WATER: WEEKLY TESTING IS REQUIRED
Regardless of what sanitation method you choose, you must test the water every week
and in desert climates at least twice per week between May and September if you wish to
operate a crystal clear pool. The number of swimming pools that operate crystal clear 52
weeks in southern climates or 26 weeks in northern climates may be zero, but certainly
95 percent of them experience six to eight consecutive week runs of crystal clear water
on a regular basis.
Unfortunately during these six to eight week periods both homeowners and pool services
become complacent, particularly in the area of water testing. You must own and perform
the following weekly tests if you seek the 52 week elusive goal of crystal clear pool
water. Categorized by sanitizer and frequency of the test per their manufacturers.
To Achieve 52 Weeks Crystal Clear:
Chlorine/
Bromine
SALTChlorine
Ionization
Ozone
FREE CL/BR
Daily/Weekly
Weekly
NA
Weekly
TOTAL CL/BR
Daily/Weekly
Weekly
NA
Weekly
pH
Weekly
Weekly
Weekly
Weekly
CH
Quarterly
Quarterly
Annually
Quarterly
aK
Weekly
Monthly
NA
Weekly
Cyanuric acid
Monthly
Monthly
NA
Monthly
Total Salinity
NA
Monthly
NA
NA
Semi-Annually
Annually
Annually
Annually
Annually
(to remove)
NA
Weekly
Annually
Phosphates
Copper
If you employ a pool service it is reasonable to request your weekly water test results,
particularly if extra charges apply for chemical or extra maintenance issues. It is not
reasonable to expect 365 days of crystal clear water, regardless of the price paid for
weekly pool services or the sanitation method used.
If you seek the elusive 365 days be prepared to learn your pool, help your service, pay for
or perform preventative maintenance and communicate with your suppliers regularly, not
just when issues arise. The swimming pool industry has invested in water testing services
which are excellent for problem solving but requires a weekly visit to the pool computer
for best results. Use the inventory sheets in this book to receive the best advice and
materials.
8
UNDERSTANDING YOUR COMPUTERIZED WATER ANALYSIS
There are several factors for running a swimming pool that is balanced.
PH: Potential hydrogen is important for sanitation to work properly. For chlorine or
bromine pools the ph needs to be maintained between 7.4 and 7.8. For Bacquacil the ph
needs to be between 7.2 and 7.6. For alternative sanitizers like ionization 6.8 to 7.2 is
appropriate. In all three of these cases you are actually running at neutral as chlorine
raises the neutrality to 7.4.
Calcium Hardness: Calcium is also very important to running a swimming pool. For
this reason, pools should not be filled with soft water. All pools should maintain a
minimum of 200 ppm, with 400 ppm being ideal for ionization.
Chlorine/Bromine: Chlorine/Bromine needs to be measured for a chlorine/bromine
based pool. The ideal level of sanitation is 1.5 ppm (one important note, chlorine loses
its effectiveness if the temperature goes over 90 degrees).
Copper: Copper needs to be measured for ionized pools. The ideal level of sanitation is
between 0.4 and 0.7 ppm if there is zero chlorine can be maintained at 0.4 ppm if free
chlorine is 0.5ppm. Either number being higher can result in staining of the pool.
Biguanide: The ideal level of Biguanide for a Bacquacil pool is 30 to 50ppm.
Hydrogen peroxide shock and algaecide also need to be added weekly.
Alkalinity: Alkalinity is a factor for chlorine, bromine or bacquacil pools. Proper
alkalinity levels can help to stabilize the ph of the pool. Typically, this should measure
between 80 and 120ppm.
Phosphates: Phosphates these can cause significant problems to running a pool
properly. They ideally should measure 0ppm. If they measure less than 1000ppm then a
product like Zero-Phos is effective at removing them. If over 1000ppm, then aluminum
sulfate should be used to remove them. (See page 10.)
TDS: Total Dissolved Solids are measured as anything solid that can dissolve in water.
If this level reaches a level of over 2000ppm then the pool needs to be drained and
refilled.
CYA
Cyanuric Acid (cyanide) is a stabilizer used to extend the life of chlorine. 35 is the ideal
level. Not compatible with ozone or oxygen based sanitation. At a level of 100ppm there
can be significant health effects so level should be monitored.this
SALT
Sodium is often measured as a function of your TDS. Levels over 3000 can pit your
concrete, ruin landscaping and give bacteria a place to hide as with high TDS levels
generally.
9
PHOSPHATES: WILL FERTILIZE YOUR POOL -The proper procedure for using aluminum sulfate on phosphate removal when levels are
over 1000 is as follows:
The ph must be at 7.4 or higher. Add 5lbs of aluminum sulfate per 10,000 gallons of
water. Recirculate the water for 2 to 3 hours. Allow the pool to settle (approximately 18
to 36 hours), when the water is clear, vacuum to waste. Then rebalance your pool. This
will knock the phosphates down to about 200 ppm so Phos Free will still need to be
added when rebalancing.
They typically come from fertilizers in a variety of ways. They can be tracked into the
pool by walking across a chemically treated lawn. They can blow into the pool from an
airplane that is spraying a farmer's field. With the new eased up restrictions on water
quality, they can even be found in your water supply that you are refilling the pool from.
In recent years the new “clean air act” has changed air quality requirements for burning
coal or refining petroleum.
Phosphate will create all kinds of issues for the pool that may seem unexplainable. A
murkiness to the pool that won’t go away, a fluorescent green pool, proper sanitation
levels impossible to maintain, come and go algae blooms, these are all signs of
phosphates in the pool.
Phosphates act as a food source for algae and will counteract all known sanitation
methods. They also tend to load in certain types of Medias, like Zeolites, and can be very
troublesome to remove. If you can locate the source of them, you have a chance of being
able to eliminate them.
If they are found in your water supply, a carbon filter on the end of the hose, will keep
them out of the pool. Avoiding walking on lawns that have been sprayed or covering the
pool when fields are being sprayed will also help.
Whether your pool uses conventional chlorine or an alternative sanitizer, you must
confirm phosphates at zero. There are 2 methods of removing phosphates from the water
based on the level found. Phosphates are measured in parts per billion. At 1000 or less, a
product like Phos Free will work on them. If they are over 1000 then aluminum sulfate
will be required to knock them down to a level where Phos Free will work.
PHOSPHATES OVER 2,000 PPB – STEP 1
Procedure for aluminum sulfate removal:
Ph must be 7.4 or higher
Add 5 lbs. aluminum sulfate per 10,000 gallons of water
Let pool run in recirculate mode for 2 to 3 hours
Shut the pool off and allow it to settle until water is clear (18 to 36 hours)
Vacuum pool to waste
Add liquid phosphate remover to get them to zero, backwashing within 24-48 hours.
10
PHOSPHATES… THE NEW POOL INDUSTRY BUZZWORD.
Author: Natural Chemistry® Newsletter – Vol. 11, March 2007, p. 2)
Phone: 1-800-753-1233
URL: http://www.naturalchemistry.com/
What is a phosphate?
Phosphates have been around since long before any pools or spas were built.
However, recently the detrimental impact of phosphates on pool and spa water has
been proven, making phosphates the "buzzword" in the industry. Two of the most
frequently asked questions on Natural Chemistry's pool tech line … are, "what is
phosphate and "how do phosphates get into my pool or spa?"
How are phosphates introduced into pools and spas?
Some of the more common sources of phosphate contamination are:
SOURCE WATER - many municipalities are now using varying forms of
phosphate based chelating agents in an effort to preserve the water main lines
from corrosion. These added chemicals will increase phosphate levels.
POOL CHEMICALS - many of the stain and scale inhibitors, as well as metal
sequestering agents are phosphonic/phosphoric acid based. This can be confirmed
by checking MSDS sheets and product labels. Once these products are added to a
pool or spa they begin to deteriorate and will increase phosphate levels.
ENVIRONMENT - debris such as dust, pollen, dirt and leaves will contribute to
phosphate levels in pool and spa water.
FERTILIZERS - both lawn and general agricultural fertilizers will increase
phosphate levels.
REMEMBER! - Although phosphates from these sources are usually polyphosphates or organically bound, all will degrade to "ortho" or reactive
phosphates with time.
11
DOES MY POOL LEAK?
The water for your swimming pool must always be above your skimmer inlet. While this
may be stating the obvious some not so obvious issues can occur.
Autofills
Automatically introduce water to the pool, often tapped into the irrigation or misting
system. If a leak is suspected the first step is to disable the autofill by unplugging it or
turning the valve.
Evaporation
Based on an eight five foot perimeter pool, a week without rainfall, with high heat of
100°F-120°F (TX, AZ, and NV), and a 3" minimum – 6" maximum water loss. Without
an autofill, add one or two inches of water. With moderate heat of 95°F-100°F the water
loss is ½" minimum to 1½" maximum. With low heat of 70°F to 90°F the water loss is 0"
minimum to ½" maximum.
A daily loss of ⅛" or less is hard to qualify but if the pool requires hose filling in
moderate temperature or rainfall weeks it is likely leaking.
Plaster Pool: Look for holes, they often have brown/black stains
Fiberglass Pool: Look for cracking
Vinyl Pool: Watch for stair frame screws, skimmer, light gasket, and main drain
gasket
Leak to Level
In freeze climates the owner is logically afraid of a broken underground pipe. These are
relatively rare and can be confirmed by allowing the pool to leak to level, with and
without the pump running. A pressure test is ordered from a pool company after it is
determined the pool will leak below the skimmer.
Money saving search for leaks
Raise pool water two inches per day after allowing it to leak to level. Using your liquid
Phenol red from your pH kit, squirt a few drops at any jet rings, ladder, stair step or
skimmer trim. The red liquid will be drawn to leak.
Sonic Leak Detection
If you fail to find the leak yourself using the above methods, sonic leak detection through
the nearest American Leak Detection local franchise is your next best move.
12
TYPES OF IN-GROUND POOLS: PLASTER / VINYL / FIBERGLASS
Plaster Pools or Pools with a Stone Finish
These pools are also referred to as plaster, granite, concrete, pebbletech, marble light,
marcite, or diamondbrite pools. The dominant form of pool, particularly in the southern
US and Europe is a rebar reinforced, plaster or concrete based shell and a top finish. The
terms granite, pebbletech, marble light, and diamondbrite apply to the finish. Absent one
of these finishes, a ceramic tile or glass pool should be cared for in the same manner. A
growing trend to resurface these pools with fiberglass finish has been noticed over the
last 12 years.
Plaster Types:
• Grey or White – These are the least expensive, least life and highest maintenance
surfaces. Basically, they are portland cement with or without a tint additive. For,
longer life stone, glass accents and other durable items have raised the life of the
finish and widely expanded the color choice.
• Pebble Tec® (Small stones in plaster) – The developer of the imitated small
stone in the plaster has been Pebble Tec®. Offering a multi color, more water
resistant finish. These finishes are more stain resistant and cost the builder at least
three times more in terms of material and labor and are absolutely reflected in the
cost of the pool or replaster work.
Examples of Pebble Tec® Finish
Operating Issues:
1. These pools must never allow calcium hardness to fall below 200 ppm.
2. These pools must be brushed weekly in high season or employ a suction vacuum.
3. These pools will stain or bleach, require 7 to 10 year reapplication of the finish,
and are the most amicable to attached custom water features.
4. These are the only pools which allow large, free form designs and multiple water
features attached with one filtration and purification system.
Because they lend themselves to free form design, plaster pools will always be a
dominant force in the swimming pool industry. In northern markets they are significantly
more money to construct.
13
Vinyl Pools
Since 1980, the vinyl liner has made substantantial inroads to the swimming pool and has
become the dominant choice. In the northern seasonal markets some have argued vinyl
pools are crack resistant during a freeze, their 7 to 15 year window on vinyl replacement
is less expensive than a replaster project and the vinyl surface is always friendly to the
swimmer. Liner replacement is typically $3000 to $4000, less than a replaster in every
North American market.
A growing number of vinyl builders have been found in Texas, California and Florida
although the Fiberglass builders have made in-roads in the desert pools of Arizona and
Nevada. Ninety plus percent of the Northern U.S. pools are lined with vinyl and these
pools have begun showing up in Texas, Florida, and California.
Operating Issues:
As with plaster pools the calcium hardness should be maintained above 200ppm and pH
above 6.6 (7.2 if using chlorine or bromine). Sanitizer levels above 5.0ppm free chlorine
can bleach the liner as can improper handling of chlorine or acid. They are more resistant
to stains, less resistant to mold underneath the pool or damage from concentrated
chemicals. Confirm all drainage flow from the house is directed away from the pool.
Maintenance Issues:
Vinyl pools require little maintenance and have a 6 to 20 year life dependant on water
chemistry. Liners are replaced at a cost of $3,000 to $4,000 and come in hundreds of
colors. If your liner pool is built in clay (vs. sand) soil environment, proper back filling
and drainage are needed to keep water from forming under the liner and giving you water
mold issues.
Make certain ALL drainpipes are pointed away from the pool. If water is running toward
your pool from the neighbor's higher elevation house, installing a French drain system
may be necessary.
Vinyl pools do not require weekly brushing to avoid algae in high season but do have
other issues. Shocking the pool with chlorine must be done with care to avoid bleaching
and spotting. Distribute shock (liquid or solid) around the pool and emphasize the deep
end. Dilute liquid acid with water in five gallon bucket and "pool" it in the deep end of
the pool when adjusting pH down. Keep calcium above 200 ppm and pH above 6.6 to
avoid the liner becoming brittle before its ten year life.
14
Fiberglass Pools
Perhaps the fastest growing surface choice is a fiberglass pool. This trend is consistent
with pools in general getting smaller and not having diving boards or deep ends. The
entire shell has been trucked in as one piece so the size is predetermined and freight
expenses along with road restrictions limit the size.
Operating Issues:
The fiberglass pool will generally require less maintenance if it has been properly
installed, whether it is an entire fiberglass shell or fiberglass applied over plaster. The
smooth source will not usually require brushing.
Maintenance Issues:
Keeping calcium above 200 ppm and avoiding high sanitizer levels will keep this surface
from staining or spotting. Fiberglass owners with well water may wish to put an iron
filter on their outdoor swimming pool feed line. Use Vitamin C tablets to remove spots or
granular ascorbic acid if it is available, no more than one kilogram per 10,000 gallons.
Stain Spot Removal:
Ascorbic acid or pure vitamin C is the best method to remove black or brown spots from
any fiberglass surface. The proper dosage is one kilogram per 10,000 gallons or a small
quantity located at the spotted area.
Note: Any pool using carbon dioxide for pH control must stop the CO2 for three days
prior to using ascorbic acid.
15
NEGATIVE edge, Infinity or Bladder Tank Pools (Pictured Below)
Although pools with water spilling over an edge have been built for decades, the concept
is still new to many homeowners and even some builders. And where there are novel
building concepts there is the possibility of calamity and a need for professional support
after the build.
Such calamity can take the form of angry, vengeful customers and actual litigation. Lew
Akins has seen plenty of it. As a 35-year veteran of the business with experience in
different kinds of pool construction, he serves as an expert witness in pool building
lawsuits around the country — many of them involving vanishing-edge construction. As
a relatively new type of construction, Akins says, vanishing edges have seen more than
their share of legal action.
Akins is president of Ocean Quest Pools by Lew Akins in Belton, Texas, and has
authored many articles and seminars on vanishing-edge construction. His insights into
what has gone wrong focus attention on the trouble spots and can help builders avoid
similar mistakes.
Sophisticated Engineering is Required
The No. 1 cause of disaster in the construction of a vanishing-edge pool, according to
Akins, is poor communication. It’s simple, it costs nothing, and yet it remains the root
source of ultimate failure.
“A lot of times there’s a simple absence of understanding from homeowners of what to
expect from a vanishing-edge pool,” Akins says. “Either that or the things they do expect
are just wrong.”
This is because the technology remains unfamiliar to the general public. Most people
have an understanding of the basic workings of a standard 16-by-24-foot fiberglass pool,
but the workings of a vanishing-edge pool are new to them.
“The problem is usually that the guy that sold it hasn’t really explained up front the
ramifications of buying a vanishing-edge pool,” he says.
16
One issue in particular comes up again and again with new vanishing-edge pool owners
— an apparent leak in the catch pool.
“They think that they have a leak because the level of water in the catch pool drops a
certain distance on a daily basis. But that’s simply the fact that the evaporative loss in the
main pool is reflected in the catch pool.”
In a standard pool, evaporative loss is reflected in the slight lowering of its water level.
But the water level in a vanishing-edge pool remains constant; losses there are
concentrated in the catch pool, which is used to refill it and keep its level constant.
So water losses in the catch pool reflect evaporation not only from its own surface, but
the surface of the main pool, as well.
What makes the effect more dramatic is the smaller surface area of the catch pool. If the
area of the main pool is 500 square feet and it loses a volume of water that would
normally make its level drop 1 inch, the apparent loss of water in its catch pool of 50
square feet (a tenth of the main pool’s area) will be 10 times as great, or 10 inches — a
shocking amount in a short time.
“And there’s nothing wrong,” says Akins, “but the customer perceives that there is
something wrong, and that becomes a sticky point for the builder because he hasn’t
explained it. And explaining it after the fact doesn’t have nearly the credibility of telling
the client ahead of time.”
The Weir Wall: Water on Both Sides
Another trouble spot is the weir wall, which, unlike the side of a standard pool, has water
in contact on both sides.
Akins asserts that a builder cannot count on a plaster surface to waterproof the weir wall,
but must use a waterproofing product on the concrete wall before it’s plastered. And on
both sides.
“You really have to waterproof both sides of the weir,” he says, “understanding that there
are different waterproofing products for the positive side and negative side, and you must
use products that are specific to the side you are waterproofing.
“Some products waterproof the positive (pool) side, and some waterproof the other
(negative) side. Some even work on both sides, but most will not, so it’s critically
important that the label instructions be followed to the letter.”
In any case, without a good seal on the concrete, water will work its way down into it,
and degradation of the weir wall will follow — rapidly if it has not been formed properly.
17
A forming method that is particularly at fault, Akins says, is the tying of pegboard
directly to the steel. “That does not allow for a full complement of concrete around the
steel, which creates potential water penetrations and compromises the strength of the
wall. It’s just a bad construction practice, period.
“And if you’re not forming from the ground up, you need to make sure you have dobies
in place to hold the form off the steel so you can get a good complement of steel around
it.”
Akins has seen the same construction problem in raised spas, often from inexperienced
builders, he says, “and they end up with the same exact issues.”
Depending on the climate, surface waterproofing on the weir can also be a trouble spot,
says White: “If water is able to penetrate the veneer or tile, when a freeze hits, that water
expands and sometimes it will pop the tile up, or whatever the veneer happens to be.
“We haven’t had too much of a problem with that until this year; it’s been a long time
since we had weather like this in Oregon. Most of the surface finishes are tile, and you’ve
got water running over that edge most of the time, and it soaks up moisture.”
Any damage or disfiguring of the weir edge will have a noticeable effect on the look of
the feature, of course. Building and maintaining that edge within a tight tolerance is
essential to building an energy-efficient pool. That’s because the smaller the total
variation in edge height, the smaller the amount of water that is needed to produce the
desired negative-edge effect.
“You don’t need much,” says Akins. “If you are level at the edge, you can keep it full and
flowing with hardly any water. You can literally create flow across a negative edge with a
garden hose.
“That’s a fairly common mistake guys make when they’re guessing. They don’t know for
sure, and they want to cover their asses, so they put a great big pump on it. That’s
because they’re worried about not being level at the edge, and they feel they may need
more flow to make up for that. Of course, it adds a significant amount of cost to the job
upfront, and also to the operation of the pool.
“If you’re suspect of your ability to hit a tight tolerance across the edge, you can use a
building material that you can modify in the field.”
Check Valves – Owners Must Identify Them On An Edge Or Overflow Pool
A final, but no less important trouble spot is the plumbing between the catch pool and the
main pool, through which water is pumped to keep fluid spilling over the edge and back
into the catch pool.
18
Since the catch pool is located below the main pool, when that pump is switched off,
nature would like to drain all the water from the main pool down into the catch pool. A
check valve in the line prevents this; unless it fails.
“That’s not pretty when that happens,” says Akins. “All the water drains out of the pool,
and it floods down below and into the neighbor’s yard, and they are usually just delighted
with that.”
Everything fails eventually, so it’s essential to have a vacuum breaker built into the
system as a backup to prevent equalization of the water level when, inevitably, check
valves fail, too.
Most of these problems tend to occur when a builder tries to guess at the solution of a
building challenge, Akins says.
“Guessing is such bad form when it comes to vanishing-edge pools, I can’t begin to tell
you. I used to see a lot of that, but I don’t see as much of it anymore. There aren’t nearly
as many nightmares as there used to be,” he says.
Lew Akins, is the leading expert, he offers both design & build consulting as well as
repair & remodel consulting and expert witness testimony.
Get Lew Akins’ “Negative Edge Pools” Seminar on CD!
A subtle four-sided edge pool (left) is commonly referred to
as “an equalizer tank pool” or a gutter pool. Increasing the
tank size and adding pre-filters to the tanks improved the
performance of this pool which is 80,000 gallons and can
demand 10,000 gallons per day of water.
19
MAINTENANCE ITEMS: REGARDLESS OF POOL SURFACE
Weekly Tasks for All Pools
•
•
•
•
•
•
TEST PH
TEST SANITIZER
EMPTY SKIMMER BASKET
EMPTY PUMP BASKET
VACUUM ALL LEAVES
CONSIDER BACKWASH if pressure has risen on filter. Clean the
cartridge.
Annual Maintenance Items: Tests
• TEST PHOSPHATES AND REMOVE w/CHEMICAL.
• TEST CALCIUM HARDNESS AND ADJUST
• TEST CYANURIC ACID ON CHLORINE POOL
Annual Maintenance Items: Filter
• REPLACE CARTRIDGE (12 TO 24 months life)
• SOAK DE GRIDS IN ACID/WATER (5 parts water, 1 part acid)
• CHECK BED DEPTH ON SAND FILTER ANNUALLY (2-3 in Southern
markets, 1-2 times in Northern markets):
o Sand
o ZEOlite
o GLASS
(Filter bed depth should be six to eight inches from the top of the filter and, if short, will
result in murky water and/or increased chemical use.)
In southern pools these items will result in extra charges from the service. With northern
pools they can be ordered with an opening or closing and also involve charges.
20
FILTERS: THE KEY TO TIME and CHEMICAL SAVINGS
Three basic types of filters exist for both above ground and in-ground swimming pools:
• Sand Filter
• Diatomaceous Earth
• Cartridge
It is important to confirm the size of filter is adequate for your pool and your pool pump
is rated for your filter. Generally the filter cannot be oversized, in other words the bigger
the better. An undersized filter will easily double your chemical use, double your time
spent on water chemistry and give you many days of murky water. Very few above
ground pools are sold with an adequate filter.
Sand Filter Size
Maximum U. S. Gallons
180 LBS
9,000
200 LBS
12,000
300 LBS
26,000
500 LBS
36,000
600 LBS
50,000
900 LBS
75,000
Pools with inadequate filters can either add a second filter or increase the size by
replacing an existing filter. In the case of sand filters an upgrade in the media itself may
permit a marginally sized filter to successfully operate the pool. Media options will result
in a specific micron removal with a properly sized pump.
Sand Filter Media Options
Quartz Silica Sand
Microns Filtered
50
Zeolite
2 – 10*
Glass Media
2 – 5*
*With proper horsepower / filter size combination
21
In soft water areas and with pools using a mineral purifier, many zeolites sold will prove
incompatible. Only testing after purchase and install, many zeolites remove calcium
hardness or copper, silver or zinc from your pool. All zeolites are incompatible with
metal remover, flocculant, and clarifier and will load phosphate if it is contained in your
rainfall or source water. The manufacturers do not acknowledge these issues and they
do not accept returns.
The use of glass began around 2004 and is the most expensive option with both the
lowest micron rating and longest life of the media itself. Glass is available in either multi
color or white, and may or may not come pre-sterilized. Some of these manufacturers do
take returns and offer money-back guarantees.
SAND FILTER TROUBLESHOUTING CHART
PROBLEM
Valve handle is hard to move
Water trickles out backwash hose
Sand or media comes out jets
Sand or media comes out hose
Sand
PROBABLE FIX
Spider "O" ring
Spider "O" ring
Dirty filter / Broken distributor
Bent or Broken
Zeolite
Glass
If any of these Medias are found in the pool or backwash site glass; make sure that
certain media have been installed properly with a pea gravel bed fully covering the
laterals regardless of filter brand.
Glass Filter Media Sellers (Non Swimming Pool Industry Included)
NEW JERSY - South Jersey Water 856-451-0620
OHIO - JK Environmental Services 419-524-6476
KANSAS - LindySpring 785-640-2527
MINNESOTA – ECOsmarte Headquarters 612-866-1200
WISCONSIN - Pool Works 920-339-9765
TEXAS - Millenium Pools 512-266-9699
TEXAS - B2 Pools 979-450-9959
COLORADO – The Koi Lagoon 970-484-9162
ILLINOIS – Swim Shack 630-466-4854
ARIZONA – Control Systems 520-625-5100
NORTH CAROLINA – Rising Sun Pools 919-851-9700
MAINE – Glamour Pools 202-783-9107
CALIFORNIA - Sierra Pools 650-298-9162
CALIFORNIA - Spectrum Developers 951-776-1194
www.glasspackfilter.com
22
PUMPS
The 1 HP Rule
The HP rating of the swimming pool pump is most critical
in successful operation of the pool and specific accessories.
The most common misconception as consumers update
pools with aftermarket pumps is that a 2 HP pump is
superior to a 1 HP pump. A 2 HP pump will not function
with a 300 LB sand filter, a 48 sq ft DE or a 53 square foot
cartridge, the most popular builder sizes.
All pumps have a GPM rating as do the filters. A 72 GPM 1 HP pump is the proper rating
for the aforementioned filters and a 96 GPM 2HP pump will require at least a 600 lb sand
filter (or a 72 square feet DE filter with conventional diatomite, sand, zeolite or glass).
While subtle issues exist related to the plumbing manifolds (1.5” pipe vs. 2” pipe), total
feet of pipe between skimmer and the pump is also a consideration.
The exception to this are accessory water features and in floor cleaning systems, usually
new construction issues only. The trend is to incorporate both a separate pump and in
many cases a separate filter, always required for more in floor cleaning systems.
Variable flow pumps, “Intelligent” engineering as the manufacturers call it, are now
being marketed all through the U.S. mechanical track record and claimed energy savings
are nebulous at best.
Two operating issues need to be considered beyond HP and variable speed or flow
analysis:
1) The pool must circulate during daylight hours since algae are dormant at night.
2) Timing systems require the pool owner to be able to reprime their pump on
occasion or pay for a service call if the pool fails to restart.
Many builders run the pump and filter 24 hours to avoid these issues. This “off peak”
circulation adds between $10 and $20 per month to the monthly electric bill at average
U.S. rates.
The leading North American swimming pool pump manufacturers are Hayward, Sta-Rite,
Pentair, Jandy and Jacuzzi, all with service and parts networks to support their customers.
A pump failing normally overheats (shutting the pool off), trips the breaker or cavities the
flow. Normally this gives homeowners some advance warning. The pump consists of an
electric motor, wet end and basket. Because rebuilding the motor requires two trips and
usually an outside vendor and those two trips, most pool professionals will recommend
replacement of the pump, or at least a brand new motor. Do it yourselfers may save half
of their money or more with a motor rebuild only. They are unlikely to get the same
useful life of replacement.
23
VACUUMS
Hand Vacuum:
Skimmer mount: TOP
Suction Side:
Skimmer Mount: FACE
Pressure Side Sweep: Separate Pump
If your pool has one skimmer only, vacuums such as Baracuda this is not the vacuum for
your pool. If you have a DE filter this is not the vacuum for your pool.
Robotic with Countdown Timer:
These DC voltage driven vacuums are the most expensive and arguably the best.
In-Floor and Pop-Up:
Proper filter to pump ratios must be checked on any inFloor system or “pop up cleaning.”
Operation
Hand Vacuum:
Set up: The pool pole attaches to the vacuum head; the
head is attached to one of skimmers. Enough hose is
required to reach the longest end from the skimmer, or
you may move from one skimmer to the other. You must
partially close the skimmer you are not mounting the
vacuum to for the best results. Vacuum through a filter.
Vacuum to waste.
If your pool has two skimmers, close the one not
supporting the vacuum one half turn to maximize your
suction.
Pool Vac Set-Up
1. Attach vac head to pole and hose to vac head. Set this up in the shallow end by a pool return.
2. With all of this on the deck, take the free end of the hose and walk to the skimmer, untwisting
the hose so that it's straight.
3. Take out the skimmer basket (unless you use a vac plate) and push the free end of the hose
through the skimmer and up through the deck hole a foot or so.
4. Walk over to your pool pole/vac head and place the hole in the vac head directly over the
running pool return. This will force water through the hose. When you see it come out of the
end at the skimmer, you've gotten all the air out. If this is a sand filter, now is the time to
switch the multiport from filter to "waste" or "drain", and have your backwash hose rolled
out. Always turn off the pool pump when you swap positions on the multiport, never do it
while the pump is going, you can blow the keystem gasket. When it's in the new position, turn
it on, head back to the pool and plug in your hose to the back hole of the skimmer or the vac
plate if you're using one.
24
POOL LIGHTING:
Fiber Optics
Light with no electricity or heat
Fiberstars fiber optic lighting systems are safe and affordable. Featuring metal halide technology,
their fiber optic lighting systems offer you the same lamp technology you find in many luxury
cars today. Fiberstars – now part of Energy Focus Incorporated – offers the utmost quality in
manufacturing, engineering and safety.
Fiberstars offer synchronized fiber optic units for multiple light installations. They also have the
ability to combine our exclusive line of fiber optics with their new JAZZ® light. Run the two
systems independently for a dramatic, multi-colored effect or synchronize them to enjoy the full
ambiance of each color. Add Water Features for an even more impressive creation.
The first, brightest and world's number one choice for automated colorchanging spa lights
Automated color in a compact package? Now you can
enjoy the dramatic color lighting effects of SAm® in your
spa. SAL® Spectrum AquaLight® produces the same
revolutionary 7-color spectrum as the SAm light, but it
comes in a compact package. Especially designed for spas,
SAL provides breathtaking color at the flip of a switch just
like SAm. And if you have a pool/spa combination, you'll
be glad to know that SAL easily synchronizes with SAm
and PG2000® FreedomSync models to provide a uniform
display of ever-changing aquatic color.
25
INSTALLING NEW MEDIA
Many brands of sand filters require a pea gravel base to cover the water distribution
laterals (or fingers) and this is not well documented by various replacement media sellers.
Failure to cover the laterals with gravel on all Pentair, Jacuzzi or Sta-Rite filters will
result in the sand, zeolite or glass plugging the razor like openings and after two or three
months media will pass to the pool, filter bed depth will fall, the filter media will channel
NO AMOUNT of chemical will clear the pool for more than a few days.
SAND FILTER LATERAL
Pea Gravel Must Cover All Laterals Fully
with Glass or Zeolite.
Glass manufacturers, even though their material is machined to a sugar-like consistency
are universal in their pea gravel bed requirement. U.S. ZEOlite supplies do not document
their gravel. Only the British and Australian ZEOlites come with a stone size large
enough to cover the laterals on every brand.
REPLACING THE SAND
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1.
Remove tank
cover. Cover the
exposed vertical
pipe.
2.
Remove the
sand; use of wet
vacuum is
helpful.
3.
Check all
piping or
correct fit and
defects. Cover
laterals w/pea
gravel or glass
bead base.
4.
Add balance of
fine glass media.
Put back the tank
cover and
introduce water.
5.
Backwash
until water is
clear; much
less time than
sand or
ZEOlite.
OR just put
filter in
service if you
are using
sterile glass.
TOLL FREE SUPPORT AT 1-800-ION-SWIM
Video Testimonials at www.ecosmarte.com
GLASS, ZEOlite OR 20 Quartz Silica Sand (Regular Sand Will Not Work)
Sand
Every 3 yrs (Acid wash each year)
ZEOlite Every 3 to 5 yrs (Bed depth check each year)
GLASS Every 5 yrs (Backwash w/ pressure rise or every 5 weeks, whichever is first.
(Bacquacil users will need to change sand or Zeolite every year)
26
BACKWASHING YOUR SAND FILTER
Sand filters must plug and have pressure rise on their gauge to remove small particles
from the pool. A functional pressure gauge is necessary to successfully operate the pool.
Pools with 1970 to 1980 slide valves instead of multiport valves should upgrade the slide
valve to a 6 way multiport as their most cost effective pool purchase they can make.
Without a rinse feature the slide valve is incapable of removing algae spore, phosphate,
and human cells from water. Many slide valve owners report "dog breath" odors near
their filter or eventually in the entire pool.
Backwashing the pool should occur after 6 lb pressure rise on the gauge and prior to a 10
lb rise over starting pressure. The starting pressure must be recorded after a proper
backwash. The gauge can be marked with a waterproof marker so any pool professional
or family member will know the operating status of your filter.
The proper method is 2 minutes backwash followed by 30 seconds rinse AND a
second 2 minute backwash followed by rinse to clear in the small site glass at the top
of your filter. YOU MUST TURN THE PUMP OFF between each movement on the
multiport valve or you will damage the “spider” o-ring inside the valve. The multiport
valve should easily and distinctly lock into position.
When finished with the second backwash/rinse cycle the pump should be turned off and
the valve returned to the “filter” position. The pool should be operating at your starting
pressure. The “recirculate” and “waste” settings are covered under “Problem Solving”
and vacuum chapters of this book.
Backwashing too frequently will result in more chemical use and less water clarity with a
sand filter, especially if zeolite or glass media is used. Any sand filtered pool that has
gone four weeks without a pressure rise should backwash the pool regardless of pool
clarity.
TWO COMPLETE CYCLES: FULLY PURGE THE MEDIA
1. Turn off pool pump
2. Set multiport valve to
"Backwash"
3. Turn on pool pump for 2½
minutes
4. Turn off pool pump
5. Set multiport valve to
"Rinse". Rinse to clear in
site glass (15 to 45 seconds)
6. Repeat the process
27
DE BACKWASHING: A DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FILTER
The diatomaceous earth filter for backwashing purposes operates on a similar principle to
sand but will not require a pressure rise. The maximum pressure rise, usually 12-16 lbs is
more important with this platform to avoid damage to the filter itself and early
backwashing will not hurt the overall filter performance. It may be prudent, for example,
to backwash the filter if the gauge has a 4 lb rise and the owners or pool service will be
gone for several days.
The use of the multiport valve is identical to a sand filter; you must turn off the pump
between each valve handle movement. The DE platform requires three two minute
backwashes followed by rinse to clear, usually less than 30 seconds.
The backwash of a DE filter is designed to knock down all powder and contaminant from
the grids and slapping (like the bottom side of a newborn infant) the side of the filter after
each rinse cycle will yield optimum results as dirty powder drops to the bottom of the
filter to be rinsed out.
D/E FILTER TROUBLESHOOTING
CHART
SYMPTOM
CAUSE
•
•
Powder in the pool:
•
•
•
"Murky" water or oil slick:
•
•
Hole in grids
Valve to separation
tank is faulty or open
To much powder put
in the filter
Not enough powder
Grids need to be
cleaned
Grid assembly is
cracked
Breather cap plugged
Pentair Multiport Valve
Failure to get all used powder to the bottom of the filter will not allow new powder to
coat the grids evenly. At least twice per year the grids must be removed and soaked for
trouble free performance. A one hour soak in five parts water, one part muriatic acid and
1 LB TSP (Trisodium Phosphate). It is usually a good idea to hire a pool professional if
this is your first swimming pool on your first D/E filter.
The 60 sq. ft. DE Filter typically contains
six or seven fabric "grids" that must be
perfectly maintained with the carriage
assembly and grids soaked. The filter must
be reassembled squarely and with even
tension on the cartridge.
28
A Salt-Water Pool is a Chlorine Generating Device
It can be complicated deciding which pool is best for your family. Many questions revolve around
salt-water pools or chlorine free pools. Salt-water pools are NOT chlorine free pools. A salt-water
pool is simply one that utilizes a chlorine generator. Chlorine generators have been around for
decades. As technology and materials continue to evolve, chlorine generators continue to improve
in performance. All chlorine generators will require the regular use of muriatic acid, cyanuric
acid, zero phos and algaecide. Those salt to chlorine generator pools with cartridge filters will
need regular shocks to remove skin cells from the pool and filter. The water chemistry is
managed the same as a “chlorine puck” pool.
Why Salt-Water?
Ocean water has a salt content of around 35,000 parts per million ("ppm"). Humans have a salt
taste threshold of around 3,500 ppm. Most chlorine generators require a salt content of 2500 6000 ppm in the pool. A unit that needs less than 3500 ppm to operate effectively is optimal. If
the salt content is higher, that warm, salty water will be pretty distasteful!
Swimming in a mild saline solution is much like taking a shower in soft water. Generally, when
people swim in a non-chlorine generator pool (a pool with no salt water in it) they feel like their
skin dries quicker upon exiting the pool. In a salt-water pool (one with a chlorine generator) the
water feels smooth, although an attached hot water spa may have odor issues.
What Does a Chlorine Generator Do?
A chlorine generator's main function is to produce chlorine for the pool so you do not have to buy
it, store it or handle it. These are big advantages for many pool owners. Chlorine generators,
when functioning correctly, produce chlorine constantly (when the pump is running) with most
units. This keeps a residual of chlorine in the pool that prevents algae from growing. The secret is
keeping the cell free of calcium and mineral deposits--the cell itself is made up of precious
metals-it must be maintained so it can continue to make chlorine. The cell should be acid water
washed 3 times per year.
Through the process of electrolysis, water passing over the chlorine generator cell produces
chlorine that is instantaneously transformed into Hypochlorous acid. When any type of chlorine is
added to water it ALL makes the SAME thing: Hypochlorous acid. It does not matter if it is
Sodium Hypochlorite (liquid chlorine), Tri-chlor and Di-chlor or Lithium based, Cal-hypo or
even gas chlorine--it all makes Hypochlorous acid. Hypochlorous acid is the active sanitizer; this
is what kills algae and other harmful stuff in the water. Its effectiveness is totally predicated on
balanced water conditions and, more importantly, proper pH. So, with a salt water system or
chlorine generator, you still must maintain your water balance (pool chemistry) properly.
Over 40 manufacturers now sell salt to chlorine generators for between $599 and $1,699; often a
replacement cell for the less expensive units will price at $600 to $800 so buyers should exercise
caution and price out the replacement cells. Salt cells have a 2-3 year life span in southern
climates and 4-6 years in northern pools.
29
ALTERNATIVE SANITIZERS
Chemicals
Chlorine is the dominant form of pool sanitation but Bromine, Bacquacil, and Sodium
Tetraborate sanitation has a statistical presence.
Those pools using an alternative form of chemical sanitation will most likely be required
to drain the pool to convert back to chlorine or install an alternative sanitizing device.
The number of alternative chemical pools is falling dramatically while the percentage of
pools with a device is increasing.
Bromine users will operate the pool testing free bromine, total bromine, pH, calcium
hardness and total alkalinity, all critical as with chlorine.
Bromine users will typically use non-chlorine shock to respond to cloudy water and often
need weekly algaecide treatment.
Bromine salts themselves typically cloud water and movement to a copper sanitizing
device will require draining the pool to avoid copper salts which can be toxic as well as
cloud the water.
Bromine has better microbe kill rates on hot water (versus chlorine), has become the
dominant sanitizer for spas but very few pool companies inventory the larger packaging
to support a swimming pool or employ the expertise to operate one.
Bacquacil (and private label bioguanides such as Soft Swim)
By far the dominant chemical other than chlorine in swimming pools is Bacquacil. The
sanitation chemical itself (and the shock) is considerably less irritating and is more
expensive than chlorine, requires regular algaecide supplement and annual filter media
change out but does provide some economies on alkalinity up and calcium hardness
increase. Bacquacil is much less corrosive than chlorine or bromine, although some
evidence exists that each year the pool water is in the pool, the more sanitation chemical
is required regardless of weather. Baquacil users should consider draining and refilling
the pool (in addition to filter media change out) every 3 to 5 years instead of the 7 to 10
year window with chlorine.
Sodium Tetraborate Pools: PROTEAM
These pools are referenced because a statistical presence exists. The manufacturer of this
patented system, The John Girvam Company in Florida should be contacted directly for
assistance in operating these pools and updating proprietary test kits. Materials are
generally shipped from Florida.
30
ALTERNATIVE SANITIZING DEVICES
Numerous alternative devices, many dating back to the late 1980s exist to reduce or
eliminate the use of certain pool chemicals. Many of them completely eliminate the use
of chlorine stabilizer, (cyanuric acid) and the obvious human health issues.
Ionization
The oldest methods involve copper or copper/silver ionization using ionic metals to kill
algae, bacteria and virus. Early Roman fountains and modern day wishing wells easily
demonstrate the water clarity achieved from the stable part per million metal residuals.
NASA legitimized this science in the 1960s by using ionization on three week Apollo
missions to the moon when fear of moon microbes was tantamount. Since 1999 have
efficacy studies confirmed superior kill rates on Legionella, Cryptosporidium, Polio
Virus, Ecoli and Coliform with the use of ionization. The issues, however, revolve
around staining and the need for oxidation with the majority available systems.
Ionization / Oxygen and Ionization / Ozone and Active Oxygen
The problem in swimming pool applications however is that ionization alone does not
address body oils, uric acid, and other organics brought into the water by swimmers.
Therefore an oxidation supplement or method is required.
The less expensive ionization products ($800-$1400) recommend the use of household
bleach or non- chlorine shock on a regular basis to accomplish the needed oxidation
(Caribbean Clear, Pioneer, Sigma, Challenger, Lifeguard). The more sophisticated and
successful manufacturers will incorporate a second device (ozone or oxygen generators)
to eliminate the regular use of halogen chemicals (Clearwater, Superior Aqua,
Ecosmarte). These Dual systems, while not necessarily doubling the cost ($1900-$4500)
should be scrutinized, particularly if ozone is used to ensure proper sizing based on both
the size of the pool and projected swimmer volume. Tens of thousands of pools operate
without regular chemical to the pool a fact that North
American pool professionals have acknowledged only
after Wal-Mart, Sam’s Club and Canadian Tire garnered
over 30% of the swimming pool chemical business.
Ozone
Has been accepted chemical reduction standard in water treatment since the early 1900's.
The short life of the ozone, however, makes both oxidation supplement and algaecide use
a necessity. The main problem with ozone generators in residential applications is the
cost of electricity and element replacement. (Residential ozone generators require 24 hour
circulation and annual bulb/element replacement)
Ozone generators are rated in grams per hour and a 2-3 gram output is required to have
an impact on the chemical demand of the pool. As with salt chlorine generators, ozone
devices require high amperage AC voltage to operate and require change-out of bulbs
every year or two.
31
AUTOCOVERS: TURN THE KEY and POOL IS COVERED
A growing trend to cover pools with a retractable cover has occurred in North America. If
your pool has such a cover and you are experiencing issues the following troubleshooting
guide has been compiled using information from manufacturers.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE: AUTOCOVERS
Symptom
Cover will not move
forward or will not reverse
Water leaking onto cover
Cover retracts out of square
(Some unevenness may be
unavoidable due to pool
configuration)
Cover not even at end of
pool
Cover seems to be running
under stress
Problem
1. Circuit breaker or GFI
is tripped
2. Water on cover
3. Water accumulated
between roll-up tube
and pool
4. Cover adhering to
deck
5. Torque limiter loose
6. Motor needs service
1. Cover caught on
something sharp
2. Abrasion pinhole
1. Rope length is
unequal
2. Uneven drag on cover
as it retracts off pool
Solution
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
1.
1.
2.
1. Rope length is
unequal
1.
1. Excess friction during
operation
2. Cover adhering to
deck
3. Debris in housing
4. Cover too tight
5. Brake to tight
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Reset circuit breaker
Pump water from cover
Sweep water off cover
Lift cover and billow air
under cover. Use
replaceable welcome
mat, etc., to break deck
adhesion
Tighten both torquelimiter bolts ½
revolution until it
engages
Call for service
Remove sharp object
and use patch kit to
repair
Re-pin the rope onto the
rope reel so the extra
rope around the reels is
exactly the same on
both sides
Tighten rope reel brakes
slightly. Do not
overtighten
Re-pin the rope onto the
rope reel so the extra
rope around the reels is
exactly the same on
both sides
Clean guides with hose.
Clean all turning parts
Billow cover by lifting
fabric to break adhesion
Clean housing of debris
Raise water level to
mid-tile or replace cover
Loosen brake
32
Adding a retractable cover to an existing pool is expensive, although energy and water
chemistry savings can be achieved. There are two types of covers, each either electric or
hydraulic.
Top Track
Track is mounted in the concrete deck. This is the only retrofit option unless you are
prepared to replace your concrete deck.
Below Track
Track is built under the concrete deck with no exposed runners, over with a cantilevered
edge.
Without entering into the debate it is not wise to use these covers as winter covers in
northern freeze climate, despite manufacturers' claims. A fabric replacement due to an ice
tear is $3,500 to $5,000, excluded from their warranties. Investing $1,500 to $4,000 in a
true safety cover is the idea way to winterize an autocover pool, extending the life and
simplifying the maintenance. Leaf stains accumulated in the fall can also ruin the
appearance.
OPERATING ISSUES
Cover Pump
A small sump pump is required to pump water off of the cover, especially before opening
it. A leaf blower or pressure washer also simplifies clean up.
The manufacturers that recommend their autocovers for winter use expect the cover to be
regularly pumped as water accumulates and before ice forms. They also expect you to
pump it as ice melts. The fabric itself will become very dirty over winter month and must
be cleaned each spring.
Sun Light
It is a good idea to expose your pool to the UV frequently regardless of the sanitation
methods used. Saltwater chlorine generators and ozone generators will destroy both the
fabric and the track if the cover is not opened every day.
Heating the pool
Keep the cover closed and realize your energy saving benefit with the autocover.
Generally, two to four hours with a properly sized heater will raise the pool water
temperature for planned swimming events. This permits the heater to be turned off or
down on days when the homeowner knows there will be unlikely use of the pool.
Load Bearing Covers (major remodel)
A general contractor and removal of the entire concrete deck can result in an additional
room when an indoor pool is not in use. www.wutgroup.com
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WINTER CLOSING
Closing Northern Pools - Frozen Water
1. Test copper and pH. Lower pH to the lowest acceptable range. Raise sanitizer to the
highest acceptable range.
Day of Closing
1. Drain water below skimmer level. You can achieve this by running your pump to
waste through only the main drain.
2. Turn off pump. Disconnect power to Electronic Control Box and remove lead wires
from chamber. Store Box indoors for the winter.
3. Lay out all winterization hardware (caps, Gizmos, etc.).
4. Unscrew return jets, stand-by with jet plugs.
Return Lines
1. Twist off ECOsmarte Electrode Chamber (store indoors). The 12" gap will be your
"blow spot."
2. Using a shop-vacuum or other power blower, blow toward the return side of the
piping from the "blow spot" with all returns open.
3. Close all return valves. Using the winter plugs, plug all jets finger tight except the
nearest jet to the pump. Open return line nearest pump and blow air through that line,
from the "blow spot." Repeat this procedure for each return line, re-plugging each jet
after water is purged.
4. Carefully pour one gallon RV Anti-Freeze into the return side of the piping (most
likely from the "blow spot"); blow Anti-Freeze through with shop-vacuum until you
can see anti-freeze come out of the intended jet. Repeat this procedure for each line
starting with the furthest jet and working toward the pump.
Prior to Suction Side Winterization
1. Remove drain plug from hair and lint basket (sump). Allow to drain completely.
2. Remove drain cap from filter (if sand filter, remove smaller of two caps).
Skimmers
1. Close skimmer and main drain valves.
2. Working from the suction side of your pool piping, open and blow out skimmers, one
at a time, from the nearest skimmer to the furthest. Close skimmer valves after
blowing.
3. Pour one gallon RV Anti-Freeze directly into each skimmer.
4. Plug skimmers. If Gizmo is not used, leave an empty plastic Anti-Freeze jug in
skimmer cavity (plastic jug will absorb winter expansion).
Main Drain
1. With skimmer valves closed, open main drain valve.
2. Open hair and lint basket (sump) at pump. Remove basket. Replace drain plug.
3. Pour approximately two gallons of RV Anti-Freeze into hair and lint basket. Close
basket cover.
4. Blow from suction side of "blow spot" with main drain valve open, until you can see
small trace of Anti-Freeze entering the pool.
5. Close valve quickly.
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SOUTHERN POOL CLOSING PROCEDURE
If you are located in a region where freezing water is not a concern, then lower pH to 7.2
(neutral) and raise sanitizer levels. There is no need to run the pump and filter everyday.
You must however run the pool if a frost warning is issued. Southern pool owners may
adjust pH every 2 or 3 weeks in a non-circulating pool for maximum control.
Southern Pool owners will use the auto cover in their winterization strategy. "Swamping"
a southern pool and cleaning it up in the spring makes little sense and annoys the
neighbors.
Miscellaneous
• Stuff rag or sock in each end of "blow spot". Rubber bind or duct-tape rags in place.
• If you have a slide, water-powered vacuum (Polaris, Kreepy Krauly, etc.), or waterfill hose installed on your pool they will need to be blown out and filled with AntiFreeze. Use above procedure in most cases. Some slides, however, may need to be
blown from the spot of disconnection.
• Set sand filter 7-way Valve to the "Winter" or "Closed" position.
• Remove ladder and railings. Lift cover plate and unfasten 7/16" or 1/2" bolts.
• If diving board is greater than 8' long and snow is expected, remove and store inside
for the winter.
• Cover pool with winter cover. If water bag cover is used, fill water bags half-full to
prevent winter cracking. Also, allow cover's slack to fall into pool and anchor with as
little on deck as possible (1 to 2 feet is ideal). This will prevent the cover from
collapsing into the pool under a load of snow.
Covering with a solid surface will save
countless hours of spring cleanup.
An inexpensive winter cover can be achieved with water
bags available in 4, 6 and 8 foot lengths.
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SAFETY OPTIONS
A safety cover, capable of supporting a deer, child, or moose can be starched. Merlin
Industries® Smart Mesh™ allows only water to pass through the cover. The straps allow
the cover to rise if the ice rises and the anchors mount flush to the deck during swimming
season.
Winterizing: Autocovers are not true safety or winter covers
Regardless of whether you own an above or below track auto cover you do not want the
cleaning, fabric or track replacement that occurs in northern climates from ice damage.
Even those manufacturers who recommend this usage expect you to pump off surplus
water. An ice tear in the fabric sells for $4,000, cleaning the cover without the winter
accumulated dirt and tree tannins is also an easier plan for owners.
TOP TRACK REQUIRED ON FREE FORM POOLS
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BELOW TRACK IS OPTIMUM FOR RECTANGULAR POOL
Attractive cantilever decking as well as a concrete lid system to hide the tracks. Below
track autocover models permit retrofitting. This can occur with a liner and or concrete
deck replacement. AQUAMATIC is the world leader in below track, turn key autocovers.
A load bearing pool cover turns the pool room into a family room when the pool is not in use.
Wut Pool in Minneapolis manufactures load bearing covers for both residential and commercial new
construction and major remodel projects www.wutgroup.com
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POOL GAMES – without owning them.
ATOMIC WHIRLPOOL
Have everybody get in the pool and line up single file along the edge with very little
space between them. Have everyone walk for a couple of minutes, then jog another
couple of minutes, then "run" around the edge another couple of minutes.
If done right the water will "carry" them around the pool. Finally, tell them to turn around
and go the other way. It is almost impossible to go against the current, so it's a lot of fun
to watch the students struggle!
BELL FLOP CONTEST
When you've got your group at the pool, and everyone's kind of doing their own thing,
nothing brings everyone together quite like a belly flop contest. Get your contestants,
find a prize for the winner, and have the audience judge by applause, according to:
Judge on 3 catagories:
1. Form/Creativity
2. Pain
3. Air
BOTTLE
If done correctly, this is like a “covert operations” version of Steal The Bacon. You’ll
need a CLEAR plastic 2 liter bottle...and a swimming poool. Make sure the
Coke/Mountain Dew/etc wrapper is peeled off the bottle! Here’s what you do.
The game leader fills the 2 liter all the way to the top (with pool water) and puts the cap
on very tightly. Then the game leader divides the group into two teams. Also, assign each
team an “end” of the pool. Finally, a chair is placed on either end of the pool as the
“goal.” You’re ready!
Have the teams lined up on different sides of the pool. The players need to be facing
AWAY from the pool WITH their eyes closed. The game leader then throws the bottle
into the pool. When it splashes in the pool, players can turn around, open their eyes, and
jump in after it!
The object is to get the bottle to the other’s teams’ chair (goal). If they can put it in the
chair, they get a point. (After each point is scored, the players must exit the pool, and the
game leader starts the second round the same way he/she started the first round.) First
team with 3 points wins.
Here’s the trick, though. The 2 liter is hard to see if it is totally filled with water! The
players are allowed to be “sneaky” with the bottle if they have it. Many times, a team
scores while the other team is trying to figure out who has it!
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CHICKEN
This is a swimming pool classic.
In Chicken, you need at least 4 players, but it can be as many as you want as long as it’s
an even number. Have all the players pair up, with one sitting on the shoulders of the
other. (Duh! Make sure that girls are ONLY sitting on the shoulders of other girls!!)
When the game leader says go, it’s every team for themselves. The team’s objective is to
knock the other teams over. The last pair standing is the winner.
NOTE: Be safe!
Make sure to play this in an area AWAY from the sides of the pool. You don’t want
somebody crashing their head into the concrete rim!
Also, you may want to have a couple of adult leaders walking through the fray to make
sure nobody gets pinned down under water (if you have a really big group.)
DIVING BOARD PIG
Line up kids behind the diving board. Just like the basketball game "PIG" (or HORSE)
the first person says what they are going to try to do. If they do it the next person has to
do the same dive, flip, or whatever they did. If they also do it correctly then the next
person has to do it as well. As soon as someone messes up they get a letter and then the
next person in line calls what they are going to attempt. This continues until all but one
person is eliminated by spelling "PIG".
Rule: You can only use the same dive once per game. (Otherwise you will have one
person just keep doing the same double flip that no one else can do.)
Pick a judge or vote to decide if they get a letter or not.
JUMP OR DIVE
A classic pool game fun for crazy participants but slightly more entertaining for the
onlookers.
Must have a pool with a diving board and is large enough for people to dive into.
1. Whoever wants to play lines up outside the pool.
2. Going one at a time, the player must get a running start and get a good bounce off
the board. Then, at the last second, the leader either yells JUMP or DIVE.
3. The player must quickly react and make the necessary adjustments. It begins to
get hilarious when players start anticipating the call and try to adjust but end up
with very painful belly flops.
One way to keep the game moving is to have elimination.
For added fun: Yell JUMP or DIVE just a little too late!
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JUMP THE NOODLE
All you need is one of those pool noodles and a leader who can tread water. Simply
position a leader in the pool and have them hold the noodle at a predetermined distance
from the diving board. Then one by one have the students jump over noodle (from the
diving board into the water). After reach round the leader moves the noodle (1 foot is a
good distance) making it more and more difficult to clear the noodle.
KING OF THE TUBE
Pool game where teams compete for best time. Each team selects a champion who can
stay on a tube the longest.
One at a time, a champion sits in a tube, and when the timer starts, the opposite teams all
try to tip over the champion WITHOUT TOUCHING HIM, only the tube.
Time each champion, see who stays on the longest.
Safety Note: Have adult spotters around the sides of the pool.
POOL CHANGE DROP
Dump between $20 & $100 in change (depending on the number of students & your
budget!) in a pool. At the whistle everyone jumps in and goes crazy trying to collect as
much as possible.
You can do so many variations of this with tokens, toys, sea shells, items worth more
points, etc.
POOL-ATEGOIRIES!
First, chose a leader or student to be the “caller”. After you have chosen the caller, they
will think of a category (colors, animals, ice cream flavors, etc). People will line up at
the diving board. One person will jump off the diving board and the caller will say a
category as soon as they leave the diving board. The person who jumps off has to name
something in the category before they hit the water. If he or she does, they return to the
line. If they do not, they are out. Then the next person in line goes. The last person in the
game is the caller for the next round.
Hint: Jump high so you have time to think about the category.
WATER BALL
You can play this game like Dodge Ball or have wars using boxes as forts. Get a bunch
of pool water balls (the kind that are super absorbent or use water balloons. Water balls
save time and can be used over. Fill buckets with water and give each team a bunch of
balls or one ball each. Keep them far enough apart that it won't hurt and tell them no
head shots. When a player is hit, they are out.
Variations: You can also use this setting for a great game of Capture the Flag.
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WATER BALLET
Give each team of 4-8 people a certain amount of time to perform a water ballet that
involves EVERY team member. Play classical music through a boom box, if possible.
WATER COLORS
One person stands outside of the pool, with their back towards the water. Everyone else
stands along that same edge of the pool (in the water) and thinks of a color. When
everyone is ready the person standing outside of the pool shouts out different colors.
When your color is called you have to swim across the pool. When the person standing
outside the pool thinks someone is swimming they turn around and jump in and tag the
swimmers before they reach the other side. If the swimmer gets tagged they are the new
person to stand outside of the pool.
Note: Every time the person turns around and nobody is swimming or they didn't tag the
person, they take one step further away from the pool.
WET SWEATSHIRT RELAY
Supply two teams with a large or extra large sweatshirt. Half of each team will go to the
opposite end of the pool. At the whistle the first person of each team must put on the
sweatshirt (over their bathing suit of course) and swim to the other side where their
teammates are. Then they have to remove the sweatshirt and give it to the next person on
their team. Teammates can help remove and put on the sweatshirt. First team who gets
their whole team on the opposite side they started from wins.
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Glossary of Swimming Pool Terms
ACID: Liquid (muriatic acid) or dry granular (sodium bisulfate) substance used to lower the pool's
pH (toward a more acidic condition) or to lower total alkalinity levels.
ACID DEMAND: A titration test used to determine proper amounts of acid (or pH decreaser) to
reach correct levels. For example, to lower pH from 8.0 to 7.6, your pool may "demand" 2qts. of
acid.
AIR BLEEDER ASSEMBLY: Located on the top of the filter and sometimes accompanied by a
pressure gauge, the bleeder is opened to release air trapped in the filter.
ALGAE: Over 20,000 species known to exist. Algae may form on your pool surfaces or it may
bloom in suspension. We typically know algae to be green but it may also be yellow (mustard
algae), black, blue-green, or any shade in between. It may form separate spots or seem to grow
in sheets. Pink algae is not algae at all but a form of bacteria. Algae are living breathing
organisms that need warmth, sunlight, and CO² to thrive. Click here to learn more about algae
and how it affects your pool.
ALGAECIDE: Meaning, to kill algae. Algaecides perform best as a backup to a routine sanitation
program. They also help to kill airborne spores as they blow into the pool. A variety of algae
treatment products are available including copper and silver compounds, poly-quat compounds,
chlorine enhancers, and herbicides.
ALGAESTAT: An algaecide kills algae, while an algaestat retards and prevents its genesis and
growth.
ALKALINE: Alkalis are best known for being bases (compounds with pH greater than 7) that
dissolve in water. Alkaline is commonly used as a synonym for base, especially for soluble bases.
ALKALINITY: Alkaline refers to the condition where the water's pH is above 7.0 (neutral) on the
pH scale. It is the opposite of acidic. Alkalinity is the amount of carbonates and bicarbonates in
the water, measured in "parts per million" (ppm) of Total Alkalinity.
ALUMINUM: A silvery white and ductile member of the poor metal group of chemical elements
ALUMINUM SULFATE: Also known as "alum;" this product is used as a flocculent which attracts
suspended particles in the water together (green or cloudy pools). "Alum" sinks everything to the
bottom which is then vacuumed to waste. A small amount of "alum" can also be used as a sand
filter additive.
ANION: A negatively charged ion, which has more electrons in its electron shells than it has
protons in its nuclei, is known as an anion due to its attraction to anodes.
AUTOMATIC POOL CLEANER: A device which agitates or vacuums debris from the walls and
floor of the pool.
BACKFILL: The repositioning of the soil after construction of a pool.
BACKWASH: The process of thoroughly cleaning the filter medium and/or elements by
reversing the flow of water through the filter to waste.
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BACTERIA: From a health perspective, the most dangerous micro-organisms which may be
living in the pool water. Some are pathogens, which can cause infectious diseases.
BACTERICIDE: Kills bacteria. Chlorine is a bactericide and germicide. Silver algaecides are
actually more bactericide, and are useful on pink "algae."
BALANCED WATER: Balanced water is the result when all of your chemical parameters are
where they should be and thus balance each other. The key components of water balance are
pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Temperature; as measured using the Langelier Index
of water balance.
BALL VALVE: A device with a hollowed out ball inside which can be turned with an external
handle to decrease or increase flow.
BASE: Those chemicals of alkaline nature which will counteract the pH of an acid eventually
neutralizing at 7.0. Common bases used around the pool would include Soda Ash, Sodium
Bicarbonate, Sodium Carbonate, and Sodium Sesquicarbonate.
BASE DEMAND: A titration test used to determine proper amounts of base (pH increaser) to
reach correct levels. For example, to raise pH from 7.2 - 7.6, your water may need 2 cups of
soda ash.
BIGUANIDES: The name for a certain class of sanitizers using the polymer PHMB, the only nonhalogen sanitizer available for pool and spa use. "Soft Swim" and "Baquacil" are manufacturers
of this technology.
BICARBONATE: An intermediate form in the deprotonation of carbonic acid.
BLOWER: Plumbed into the spa return line, air is injected to produce fun bubbles and a
hydrotherapy effect in the spa.
BOOSTER PUMP: Secondary to the filter pump, a booster pump is used to power an automatic
pool cleaner such as Polaris or Letro.
BREAKPOINT CHLORINATION: When you shock your pool, the goal is to reach a high enough
level of free-chlorine, measured in ppm, to break apart molecular bonds; specifically the
combined chlorine molecules. When breakpoint is reached with sufficient additions of chlorine,
everything in the pool is oxidized.
BROMAMINES: A combined bromine - ammonia molecule. Unlike chloramines, which are
strong smelling and offer no sanitizing properties, bromamine compounds continue to sanitize.
BROMINE: A member of the halogen family, commonly used as a sanitizer in spas, because of
its resistance to hot water with rapid pH fluctuations.
BTU: British Thermal Unit. A unit of measurement for the use of gas by a gas appliance. Pool
heaters are rated by their consumption.
BUFFER: A base such as Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda), added to your pool will increase
alkalinity which increases the buffering capacity of the pool; your pool's resistance to pH change.
BUFFERING CAPACITY: The ability of the pool to resist changes in pH, which prevents water
balance. The buffering capacity is given by the alkalinity, a close cousin to pH. If your pH
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bounces, or resumes previous levels soon after adjustment your buffering capacity is too low.
Check your total alkalinity.
CALCUIM: Calcium is a soft grey alkaline earth metal. It is the primary component of water
hardness.
CALCIUM CARBONATE: Known as scale, crystalline deposits of calcium may form on your pool
surfaces, equipment, or even line your pipes like cholesterol in your arteries. Properly balanced
water can prevent this.
CALCIUM CHLORIDE: The flaked calcium salt used to raise levels of Calcium Hardness in your
pool water. Also good for snow melting.
CALCIUM HARDNESS: A titration test is used to determine levels of the mineral calcium
dissolved in the pool water. More recently paper test strips can be accurate.
CAPACITY: The total number of gallons of pool water your pool contains (gallonage).
CAPACITOR: The Capacitor is the battery for your pool motor. It provides the energy needed
while starting, to reach 3450 rpm quickly. Replace your capacitor when the shaft can be spun
freely with a wrench or by hand, and when powering the motor, you hear a 'buzz' or a 'hum' from
the motor, but no impeller movement. Replace your old capacitor with an exact match to the
'MFD' number on the new capacitor.
CARBON DIOXIDE: A gas, delivered from a low or high pressure tank creates a soft pH down
as carbonic acid.
CARBONATE: Primary in the make up of total alkalinity and TDS.
CARCINOGEN: Any substance, radionuclide or radiation which is an agent directly involved in
the promotion of cancer or in the facilitation of its propagation
CARTRIDGE: One type of filtration, the cartridge is a pleated, porous element through which
water is passed through. Generally rated at 40 micron.
CATION: A positively-charged ion, which has fewer electrons than protons, due to its attraction to
cathodes.
CAVITATION: A general term used to describe the behavior of voids or bubbles in a liquid.
Cavitation is usually divided into two classes of behavior: inertial (or transient) cavitation and noninertial cavitation. Inertial cavitation is the process where a void or bubble in a liquid rapidly
collapses, producing a shock wave. Such cavitation often occurs in pumps and impellers Noninertial cavitation is the process where a bubble in a fluid is forced to oscillate in size or shape
due to some form of energy input, such as an acoustic field. Such cavitation can be observed in
pumps.
CHANNELED SAND: When water has worked open "holes" in the sand and is streaming right
through (without really going through the sand).
CHECK VALVE: A one way flow device that prevents water from running against the pump flow.
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CHITIN: A naturally occurring polymer found in the shells of crabs and lobsters. Contained in the
product "Sea-Klear." Chitin acts as a coagulant and flocculent for oils, metals, and organic
materials.
CHELATOR: A chelating agent is a water soluble molecule that can bond tightly with metal ions,
keeping them from coming out of suspension and depositing their stains and scale onto pool
surfaces and equipment. Similar to sequestering agents, chelators are found in such products as
"Resist" and "Sea-Klear."
CHLORAMINES: The chlorine molecule is strongly attracted to nitrogen and ammonia. When
these two combine they form a chloramine, which are undesirable, foul smelling, space taking,
compounds that require shocking the pool water to get rid of.
CHLORINE: A member of the halogen family of sanitizers, it's use in swimming pools is in the
elemental form of a gas, liquid, granular, or tablet compound. When added to water it acts as an
oxidizer, sanitizer, disinfectant, and all around biocidal agent.
CHLORINE--FREE AVAILABLE: Free Available Chlorine is that which is active, not combined
with an ammonia or a nitrogen molecule, and ready to react to destroy organic material.
CHLORINE COMBINED: That portion of total available chlorine left over when free available is
subtracted. The measure of chlorine which has already attached itself to other molecules or
organisms. Most of this is made up of chloramines.
CHLORINE TOTAL AVAILABLE: The sum of combined and free chlorine levels. With a DPD
test kit, one determines free available level, then total available. The difference, if any, is the
level of combined chlorine.
CHLORINE GENERATOR: A miniature chlorine factory. This device creates its own sanitizer for
your pool.
CHLORINATOR: Devices which allow for the safe controlled introduction of chlorine into the
water.
CHLORINE DEMAND: The quantity of free available chlorine removed during the process of
sanitizing. The amount of organic and non-organic material contained in the water will demand a
certain level of oxidizer to be destroyed.
CIRCUIT BREAKER: A switch which allows manual override of an electrical circuit. It also
automatically breaks the circuit when current fluctuations are detected.
CIRCULATION SYSTEM: The circuit of plumbing which continuously carries the water out of the
pool, through the pump and filter then returns it to the pool. One side of the line is suction to the
pump, the other pressure from the pump.
CLARIFIER: A clarifier is a chemical used as a coagulant of suspended micro particles. It helps
the filter by clumping smaller particles into filterable sizes.
COAGULANT: The properties of a chemical used in the assemblage and precipitation of
suspended material which may make the pool appear cloudy.
CONDUIT: A pipe, usually gray PVC or flexible PVC designed to carry wires from a source (i.e.
time clock) to a load (i.e. pump motor).
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CONTAMINANTS: Any micro-particle or organism which reduces water clarity or quality and
may present a health hazard. All filtering, circulating, and sanitizing is designed to eliminate
contaminant levels.
COPING: The capstone on top of the bond beam which finishes the edge around a pool or spa.
It may be pre-cast concrete or brick. On vinyl liner pools pre-fabricated coping is usually part of
an integrated system for the wall, vinyl liner, and deck.
COPPER: An effective algaestat and algaecide. Copper as elemental is used in many pools in
products such as ionizers.
COPPER SULFATE: Similar to aluminum sulfate, this chemical provides a coagulating and
flocculent function in water. Used mainly in ponds, a large amount of copper sulfate would stain a
swimming pool.
CONDITIONER: Also called Cyanuric Acid (CYA) or a stabilizer, this chemical provides a shield
from the sun around the chlorine molecule, extending the efficacy; saving you money.
CORONA DISCHARGE: An electrical discharge brought on by the ionization of a fluid
surrounding a conductor, which occurs when the potential gradient (the strength of the electric
field) exceeds a certain value, but conditions are insufficient to cause complete electrical
breakdown or arcing.
CORROSION: The effects of an acidic pool environment or residual sodium from a salt-tochlorine generator.. One in which the pH AND the total alkalinity are very low. Corrosion in the
form of etching, pitting, or erosion of pool equipment and surfaces including the concrete deck.
COUPLING: A plumbing fitting designed to join two pieces of pipe.
COVER AUTOMATIC: Solid reinforced vinyl which rolls onto a reel on one end of the pool and
attaches on the sides into small aluminum tracks. It can be be motorized or hand-crank style.
Some models may snap the sides into small anchors placed into the deck providing more shape
flexibility. Provides safety (with water pumped off - cover pump), debris protection, and
heat/chemical/water retention.
COVER HARD: A cover which rests on the edge or coping of the spa or small pool. Provides a
barrier to debris and possibly people, while keeping the heat trapped in.
COVER SOLAR: Sometimes called a thermal blanket, this cover floats on the surface
magnifying the sun's rays to warm the water and also prevents chemical/heat/water evaporation.
COVER WINTER: A barrier to sun and debris, winter covers secure the pool from
contamination.
COVER MESH: These stretch tightly across the pool like a trampoline. They are the only covers
which can be called "safety covers" in that the mesh polypropylene allows precipitation to pass
through. An open mesh is slightly less expensive than the newer solid mesh styles.
COVER SOLID: These are usually made of some form of plastic or vinyl and are secured around
the edges either by aqua blocks, similar weight, or the edges attach to anchors set in the
concrete or wood deck. Water bag style solid covers are the least expensive.
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CYANURIC ACID: A granular chemical added to the pool water which provides a shield to
chlorine for protection from UV radiation, which disrupts the molecule, destroying its sanitizing
ability.
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH: The filtering medium of the DE filter, this dry powder is the fossilized
remains of the ancient plankton; diatom.
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FILTER: A filter tank containing fabric covered grids which hold the
DE powder up against the flow of the water.
DICHLORO-S-TRIAZINETRIONE: a chemical compound. It is a chlorine oxidizer, bacteriocide,
algicide, and cleaning agent that reacts with water to form hypochlorous acid, which is related to
chlorine.
DISINFECTANT: Chemicals or processes which work to destroy vegetative forms of
microorganisms and other contaminants. Examples are chlorine, bromine, Soft-Swim, and
ionizers; also included are copper and silver algaecides.
DIRECTIONS: Important to read before using any chemicals.
DIRT DEMAND: The demand that your pool has for dirt. This level is inversely proportional to
available time for cleaning. If you remove the dirt from the pool, you have created a dirt deficit,
and the pool will actually suck dirt out of the air to maintain its dirt demand.
DIVERTER VALVE: Used in a twin port skimmer, a diverter allows the operator to manipulate
the amount of flow from the main drain and skimmer to the pump.
DPD: A method of testing for chlorine levels in the pool water. Unlike OTO, DPD testing allows
determination of total and free available chlorine levels which through subtraction gives us
combined levels.
DRAIN: Also called the "main drain," this plumbing fitting is the start of one suction line to the
pump and is usually situated at or near the center bottom of the pool.
DRY ACID: Sodium bisulfate, a granular form of acid used to lower pH and alkalinity in the
water. It is safer and less caustic than muriatic acid. Usually available as a "pH decreaser."
EFFICACY: The power to produce a sanitation effect. Chlorine's efficacy is affected by many
factors, including the sun, water balance, and the water's chlorine demand.
EFFLUENT: The water that flows out of the pump on its way through the filter, heating, treating
equipment, and then returning to the pool. Also known as the pressure side.
ELBOW: A 90 or 45 degree plumbing fitting. Used where your pipes change directions.
ELECTROLYSIS: A method of separating chemically bonded elements and compounds by
passing an electric current through them. Electrolysis is used in ionization and salt-to-chlorine
generators.
47
ENZYMES: Used in swimming pool formulations designed to break down and digest oils in a
pool or spa similar to the way enzymes are used in oil spill clean-up efforts.
FILL WATER: Used in filling or adding to the water level. Whether from the city or from a well,
your fill water brings its own chemical make up and water balance (or lack thereof).
FILTER: A device used to remove particles suspended in the water by pumping water through a
porous substance or material.
FILTER ELEMENT: A device inside a filter tank designed to entrap solids and direct water
through a manifold system to exit the filter. Cartridge filter elements and DE filter grids are two
examples.
FILTER MEDIUM: A finely graded material such as sand, diatomaceous earth, polyester fabric,
or anthracite coal that removes suspended particles from water passing through it.
FILTER PUMP: The device that pulls water from the pool and pushes it through the filter on its
way back to the pool.
FILTRATION RATE: The rate of water pumped through a filter, in gallons per minute (gpm).
FILM-X: A compound of citric acid used in cleaning plaster and other pool areas. Safe
replacement for muriatic acid.
FOAMING: A term used to describe surface foam on your water, esp. in spas/hot tubs. Foaming
is caused by high TDS levels working in combination with soft water and oils. Certain low grade
algaecides can foam when added to pool or spa. Use enzymes for foam control.
FLOCCULENT: Essentially the same as a coagulant, this chemical (such as alum) is used to
combined suspended alkaline material and/or algae into a heavy gel, which sinks to the bottom
for vacuuming to waste.
FLOW RATE: The quantity of water flowing past a specific point in a specified time (e.g. the
number of litres flowing through the filter in 1 hour).
GATE VALVE: The type that spins left to loosen and right to tighten.
GAS VALVE: An electronic valve in the pool heater that directs gas flow from the meter to the
pilot and the burner tray.
GASKET: A gasket is a mechanical seal that fills the space between two objects, generally to
prevent leakage between the two objects while under compression. Gaskets are commonly
produced by cutting from sheet materials, such as gasket paper, rubber, silicone, metal, or a
plastic polymer.
GROUND-FAULT CIRCUIT-INTERRUPTER: A GFCI device protects a circuit from branching off
by de-energizing the path of electricity very quickly when it senses current loss. An important
safety device around water (the pool?).
48
GROUT: a construction material used to embed rebars in masonry walls, connect sections of precast concrete, fill voids, and seal joints (like those between tiles). Grout is generally composed of
a mixture of water, cement, sand and sometimes color tint which is applied as a thick liquid and
hardens over time, much like mortar.
GUNITE: A dry mixture of cement and sand mixed with water at the "gun"; hence the name. A
gunite operator "shoots" the pool's rough shape, while finishers trowel after.
HALOGEN: A member of the family of elements fluorine, bromine, chlorine and iodine.
HARD WATER: That water which is high in calcium hardness and other salts which, as such,
resists soap being lathered.
HAZMAT: A hazardous material, a term used almost exclusively in the United States, is any
solid, liquid, or gas that can harm people, other living organisms, property, or the environment.
Hazmats may be radioactive, flammable, explosive, toxic, corrosive, biohazardous, an oxidizer, a
pathogen, an allergen, or may have other characteristics that render it hazardous in specific
circumstances.
HEATER: A device used to heat the water. It may be electric, fuel operated or solar powered
heat.
HEAT EXCHANGER: A set of 8 or 10 ribbed copper tubes that absorb the heat produced below
it and transfer it to the water cycling through its tubes.
HEAT PUMP: The antithesis of the air conditioner, the heat pump's cooling coil removes heat
from the air while the condenser coil transfers it to water cycling through it.
HOT TUB: Usually considered a circular, wooden vessel filled with heated and circulated water.
HP: Horsepower (hp) is the name of several non-metric units of power. The most occurring
conversion of horsepower to watt goes 1 horsepower = 745.7 watts.
−
HYDROXIDES: the most common name for the diatomic anion OH , consisting of oxygen and
hydrogen atoms, usually derived from the dissociation of a base. It is one of the simplest diatomic
ions known.
HYPOCHLORITE: A family of chlorine compounds such as Calcium Hypochlorite and Lithium
Hypochlorite, both granular, and the liquid Sodium Hypochlorite. When these compounds contact
water, they release Hypochlorous Acid, the active sanitizing agent.
HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE: A force involving built up ground water which creates upward
pressure beneath the pool shell.
HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE: Fitting(s) installed in the floor of the pool designed to manually
or automatically release hydrostatic pressure beneath the pool by allowing ground water into the
pool preventing damage from a high water table.
IMPELLER: The rotating vanes of a centrifugal pump; its action creates the flow of water. The
impeller is shaft driven by an electric motor.
49
INFLUENT: The water coming into and up to the impeller from the suction lines. These pipes are
under vacuum pressure.
ION: An atom, or group of atoms that possess a positive charge.
IONIZER: An ionizer is a device mounted on your return line, and through which water flowing
will receive charged metal ions. Manufacturers may use a copper anode and/or silver. Copper is
an algaecide and algaestat.
IRON: Usually introduced into the water from iron plumbing or from well water, Ferric Iron can
stain surfaces, while Ferrous Iron will turn your water a clear green color.
JANDY VALVE: A brand name of a three way valve, which has simplified pool plumbing.
JET PUMP: Used in spas to provide additional thrust into the hydrotherapy jets.
LADDER BUMPERS: Rubber caps or inserts which protect the pool plaster or vinyl liner from
the sharp steel ends of the ladder.
LANGELIER INDEX: Also called the Saturation Index, Mr. Langelier devised a system to
determine water balance by assigning values to levels of pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness
and water Temperature. When all parameters are in balance, the water will neither be corrosive
or scaling. The formula is "SI = pH + TF + CF + AF - 12.1."
LATERALS: Elongated, capped plastic nipples at the bottom of a sand filter which are slotted to
allow for water passage while keeping the sand in the filter tank. Pea gravel often covers them.
LIGAND: An atom, ion, or molecule that generally donates one or more of its electrons through a
coordinate covalent bond to, or shares its electrons through a covalent bond with, one or more
central atoms or ions (these ligands act as a Lewis base).
LOAD: An electric device which consumes energy, placing a load on the source.
LOW WATER SUCTION: An influent fitting, typically low on the wall in the deep end of a vinyl
liner pool. A cheaper alternative to a main drain.
MAGNESIUM: A light, ductile, silver-white, metallic element. Its presence in high non-chelated
concentrations can lead to stains & scale when conditions are right
MINERALS: Such as Calcium, Manganese, Magnesium, Nickel, Copper, Silver, Iron, Cobalt or
Aluminum. Their presence in high non-chelated concentrations can lead to stains & scale when
conditions are right.
MICROORGANISM: A living, breathing small life form in your pool. The purpose of disinfectants
are to remove such "infectants."
MECHANICAL SEAL: A seal behind the impeller which prevents water from running out along
the shaft of a motor. aka; pump seal.
50
MOTOR: A machine for converting electrical energy into mechanical energy. Your motor is
known as the dry end of the filter pump. It drives the impeller, which moves the water.
MPV: A Multiport valve. (See Below)
MSDS: Material Safety Data Sheet is a form containing data regarding the properties of a
particular substance. An important component of product stewardship and workplace safety, it is
intended to provide workers and emergency personnel with procedures for handling or working
with that substance in a safe manner, and includes information such as physical data (melting
point, boiling point, flash point, etc.), toxicity, health effects, first aid, reactivity, storage, disposal,
protective equipment, and spill handling procedures. The exact format of an MSDS can vary from
source to source.
MULTIPORT VALVE: A 4 or 6 position valve combining the functionality of several valves into
one unit, revolutionizing pool plumbing. The six common functions are described below:
1. FILTER: Keep it here 99%, except when backwashing, rinsing or wasting
RINSE: Use this setting for 20 seconds after backwashing to rinse tank
RECIRCULATE: Use this if the filter's broken; at least you're circulating.
BACKWASH: Use this setting to reverse the flow in the filter and send water out of the
waste line. Make sure valves are open or hoses rolled out
CLOSED: Put here to close off flow from the pool, usually to work on the equipment. Do
not operate pump with valve in closed position
2. WASTE/DRAIN: Another filter bypass setting, but this setting sends the water out of the
waste pipe (hose), instead of returning it to the pool. This setting is used to lower pool
water level or to vacuum to waste.
MURIATIC ACID: The liquid dilution of Hydrochloric Acid used to lower pH and alkalinity, and to
remove mineral stains and scale. Extremely caustic and corrosive, 33 Baume is typically used.
NASCENT OXYGEN: A single oxygen atom, not yet bonded to anything. Extremely powerful
oxidizer when harnessed.
NITROGEN: When combined with chlorine, nitrogen creates chloramines, which do not belong in
our pool. Nitrogen can be found in many swimmer wastes (perspiration, suntan oil, hair tonics,
etc.) or be introduced by other means.
NON-CHLORINE SHOCK: A granular form of potassium permonosulfate, used to oxidize
materials such as microorganisms, contaminants or chloramines.
O-RING: A loop of elastomer with a round (o-shaped) cross-section used as a mechanical seal or
gasket. They are designed to be seated in a groove and compressed during assembly between
two or more parts, creating a seal at the interface.
OTO: Another method of testing for free available chlorine levels in your pool, as in an OTO test
kit.
OXIDATION: The "burning up" of organic waste and compounds in the pool water. It also refers
to what you may see on your metal pool surfaces if your water is corrosive. Rust is a form of this
kind of oxidation.
51
OZONE: The molecule containing three atoms of oxygen; known to be a very powerful sanitizer.
Ozone producing equipment creates this molecule by UV radiation or corona discharge
generators.
pH: The scale of relative acidity or alkalinity, expressed in logarithmic numbers from 0 - 14, with
6.7-7.2 being neutral, depending on water temperature. What's really being measured is the
hydrogen ion concentration.
PLASTER: A common type of interior finish applied over the concrete shell of an in-ground
swimming pool.
PLUMBER'S SNAKE: Sometimes known as a "toilet jack," is a flexible auger used to remove
clogs in plumbing that cannot be loosened with a plunger. Most devices consist of a coiled metal
wire with space between the coils at the end. The other end is attached to a device with a crank
that rotates the wire as it moves down into the pipe. Drains are cleared by one of several
mechanisms:
•
The auger end of the wire digs itself into the clog much like a corkscrew, allowing
retrieval of the object causing the clog when the snake is pulled out. (Commonly hair,
combs, small toys, cloth.)
The end of the snake breaks up the object, allowing it to pass through the drain.
(Commonly tree roots, foam insulation, plastic objects.)
• The snake flails around the inside surface of the pipe, scraping off accumulated matter
(ranging from mineral deposits to bacon fat) which was reducing the effective interior
diameter of the drain pipe.
The auger should be turned clockwise only, unless it has become jammed in the drain. Not only is
this essential for retrieval of foreign objects, but for the longevity of the cable.
PLUNGER: The sliding disc assembly that changes valve position in a push-pull valve. For
example; up for backwash, down for filtration.
POTASSIUM PEROXYMONOPERSULFATE: See non-chlorine shock. Encapsulates oxygen,
raises the dissolved oxygen in the pool.
POLYMER: An algaecide / algaestat made up of repeating polymer molecules. Used for green
algae and available in varying strengths.
PPM: Parts per million. A method of assigning value to certain concentrations of chemicals in the
water. For example, alkalinity should be kept at 80-120 parts per million, by weight and in relation
to the water it's dissolved in.
PRECIPITATION: To precipitate is to come out of solution; become insoluble by result of
chemical action. Material forced out of solution, purposefully or accidentally, will then settle, stain
or scale, or remain suspended in the water.
PRESSURE CHECK: A test for the rate of water flow; also a test for leaks in plumbing by placing
a line in question under pressure and waiting for the pressure to drop.
PRESSURE GAUGE: A device indicating pressure in a filter system. Provides a determination of
how the system is operating, and informs us when service is required.
52
PRESSURE SIDE: The return side of the plumbing. The section from the pump impeller towards
the pool.
PRESSURE SWITCH: A switch used in pool heaters which opens when the flow rate is
insufficient for safe heater operation. This disrupts the circuit in the heater, preventing it from
firing.
PUMP: A mechanical wet-end, powered by an electric motor, which causes hydraulic flow and
pressure for the circulation of the pool water.
PUMP STRAINER BASKET: A device placed on the suction side of the pump, which contains a
removable strainer basket designed to trap large debris in the water flow without causing
restriction. Sometimes called a Pump Leaf Trap.
PUSH-PULL VALVE: A two position valve used for backwashing sand or DE filters.
PVC: Polyvinyl chloride, which is used to make flexible and rigid PVC pipe used for pool
plumbing.
QUATERNARY AMMONIUM COMPOUND: A type of algaecide composed of ammonia
compounds. Quaternary Ammonium Compound is an effective algaestat for green and blue/green
algae. Commonly referred to as POLYQUAT.
RATE OF FLOW: Quantity of water flowing past a designated point within a specified time
period, measured in gallons per minute (gpm).
REAGENT: The chemical indicators used in testing water balance. (All the little bottles or tablets
in your test kit).
RE-BAR: Reinforcement bar, used to add strength to a concrete. After excavation of an in
ground pool, a steel cage is formed out of re-bar, and the gunite shell is shot over and
surrounding it.
RESIDUAL: Usually refers to free available chlorine levels remaining in the pool after initial
treatment or activity with contaminants.
RESTRICTED FLOW: The term used to describe a condition preventing full flow of water.
Restriction can occur with full skimmer or strainer baskets, obstructions in the plumbing, dirty
filter, undersized plumbing or equipment , or placing devices like, heaters, cleaners or fountains in
the circulation system. Restriction on the suction side creates higher vacuum, (or suction) while
on the pressure side creates higher pressure.
SALT POOL: An electrolysis device that generates chlorine by adding 3,000ppm or higher
sodium to the pool water. Requires a fifth test for salinity.
SAND FILTER: A filter tank, usually fiberglass or ABS plastic, filled with sand and gravel. The
pump diffuses water over the top of the sand bed, and forces it through the sand and into the
laterals on the bottom.
53
SANITIZER: The residual agent used to remove unwanted contaminants from the main pool.
SCALE: Usually whitish in color, scale forms on pool surfaces and equipment when mineral salts
are forced out of solution. A scaling condition is one in which calcium hardness, pH and/or
alkalinity levels are out of balance.
SEQUESTERING AGENT: A sequestering agent ties-up minerals tightly in solution, preventing
their precipitation, which colors the water and/or stains the pool. Synonymous to chelators, these
are commonly called stain & scale chemicals and may not be compatible with all sanitizers.
SKIMMER: A surface skimmer is a plumbing fitting set at water level, containing a weir
mechanism and a debris basket. The skimmer is part of the suction side circulation system.
SKIMMER BASKET: Beneath the lid, the basket strains debris, as the first line of defense in
filtering the water.
SKIMMER NET: Attached to a telescopic pole, a leaf rake is a very useful tool in keeping the
pool clean. Also called a skimmer net are the flat, "dip and flip" nets, which aren't so useful.
SHOCK: As a noun it loosely describes the products used in shocking, such as hypochlorites,
potassium peroxymonopersulfate or liquid hydrogen peroxide. As a verb it describes the act of
bringing the sanitizer level up so high that breakpoint chlorination is reached. When breakpoint is
reached, a "shock" or perhaps a "lightning bolt" is a better analogy, is sent through the water,
tearing apart molecules and slashing through cell walls.
SHOTCRETE: A different type of application of the concrete and sand mix which is used to
"shoot the shell". Gunite is pumped dry and mixed with water at the gun, whereas shotcrete is
pumped wet.
SNOWBELT: The northern half of the United States where freezing temperatures are particularly
common and swimming pools winterize for five to seven months.
SODA ASH: A base, used to counteract an acidic condition by raising pH (will not raise
alkalinity).
SODIUM BICARBONATE (baking soda): Another base, however its properties will increase
alkalinity more than pH. Used to raise Total Alkalinity levels. pH and Alkalinity up.
SODIUM BISULFATE: A granular form of acid, used to counteract a scaling condition by
lowering pH and/or alkalinity. Known as DRY ACID.
SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE: Liquid chlorine used in pools, identical but twice the strength of
Clorox bleach.
SODIUM TETRABORATE: New technology that renders algae incapable of processing carbon
dioxide, which they need to live.
SODIUM DICHLOR: A granular form of chlorine that is stabilized with cyanuric acid. Used for
shocking and super-chlorination.
SOFT WATER: Water that has low calcium and/or magnesium content. Soap lathers easily in
soft water.
54
SOLAR SYSTEM: Black mats of miniature plastic tubes through which water is pumped,
absorbing the heat as it passes through. These mats are roof mounted with up & down plumbing
connecting it.
SOURCE: Refers to the origination of electrical power. The source for your filter pump (load) is
probably a timer clock.
SPA: A filtered, hot water vessel with hydrotherapy jets and air induction. Can be portable or
installed permanently. Jacuzzi is a brand name.
STABILIZER: See Cyanuric Acid. Stabilizers, also called conditioners, can be added directly to
your pool to extend your chlorine efficacy. Cyanuric acid is already added to certain "stabilized"
products such as Trichlor tablets and Sodium Dichlor.
STANDPIPE: Vertical pipe that carries water from the hub and lateral assembly to or from the
multiport valve on a top mount sand filter.
STRAINER BASKET: The second line of defense is a basket at the pump. The holes in this are
smaller than those in a skimmer basket, and prevent the pump impeller from clogging up.
STRATOSPHERE: The second layer of Earth's atmosphere, just above the troposphere, and
below the mesosphere. It is stratified in temperature, with warmer layers higher up and cooler
layers farther down. This is in contrast to the troposphere near the Earth's surface, which is
cooler higher up and warmer farther down.
SUCTION SIDE: The plumbing prior to and carrying water to the pump. This side is under
vacuum pressure.
SUNBELT: The southern half of the United States where freezing temperatures rarely occur, and
high temperatures are particularly common.
SUPER-CHLORINATION: Applying 7 - 10 times the normal amounts of chlorine to the pool as
an added "boost" for contaminant removal. Some refer to super-chlorinating as being less than
shocking, in that breakpoint thresholds are not reached, or the terms may be used
synonymously.
TDS: See Total Dissolved Solids; Water conductivity.
TEE: A plumbing fitting used to bring two pipes together into one, or vice-versa.
TEST KIT: A method used to test the water balance and sanitizing level of your pool water.
TIME CLOCK: A mechanical device that controls the timed operation of your electrical
equipment, primarily your filter and booster pumps.
TITRATION: A method of testing for total alkalinity, calcium hardness and acid/base demand by
adding a titrant, drop by drop until a color change is observed.
TOTAL ALKALINITY: The ability of the pool water to resist changes in pH. The "buffering"
capacity of the water. Additions of Sodium Bicarbonate will increase the levels, expressed in ppm.
TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (TDS): A measure of everything that has ever dissolved in the
water; all the matter that is in solution. High TDS levels can oversaturated your water, causing all
sorts of reactions.
55
TRICHLORO-S-TRIAZINETRIONE: A chemical compound used as an industrial disinfectant,
bleaching agent and a reagent in organic synthesis. This white crystalline powder, which has a
strong "chlorine odor," is sometimes sold in tablet or granule form for domestic and industrial use.
TROWEL: A pool trowel is a flat-bladed tool with rounded ends used to apply viscous or
particulate material coatings to concrete, especially on pool decks.
TURBIDITY: Cloudy, dull, hazy water, due to micro particle suspension.
TURNOVER: The amount of time it takes your pump to move all the water in your pool through
the filter and back again. Usually, pools are designed for an eight hour turnover.
ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT: Ultraviolet (UV) light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength
shorter than that of visible light, but longer than soft X-rays. It is so named because the spectrum
starts with wavelengths slightly shorter than the wavelengths humans identify as the color violet
(purple).
ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT TREATMENT: Using UV wavelength radiation to destroy contaminants
in water. UV light is also used to create ozone molecules for the same purpose and is used in
ponds for algae control without pH control.
UNDERDRAIN: The lower collection system in a filter which directs filtered water back towards
the pool. It also distributes water in reverse during backwashing. See laterals.
VACUUM: Refers to the low pressure condition created in the suction line. Also refers to the
cleaning process of sucking leaves, algae and debris from the pool floor.
VALVES: A device placed in the plumbing line which restricts or obstructs water flow to create
desired hydraulics, or may permit flow in one direction only (as in a check valve).
VERMICULITE: A natural mineral that expands with the application of heat. The expansion
process is called exfoliation and it is routinely accomplished in purpose-designed items.
Vermiculite is formed by hydration of certain basaltic minerals.
VENTURI: Increasing water velocity by restricting pipe size usually accomplished by a spa jet.
VOLUTE: A volute is a curved funnel increasing in area to the discharge port. It is often used with
impeller pumps. As the area of the cross-section increases, the volute reduces the speed of the
liquid and increases the pressure of the liquid. One of the main purposes of a volute casing is to
help balance the hydraulic pressure on the shaft of the pump. However, this occurs best at the
manufacturer's recommended capacity. Running volute-style pumps at a lower capacity than the
manufacturer recommends can put lateral stress on the shaft of the pump, increasing wear-andtear on the seals and bearings, and on the shaft itself.
VINYL LINER: One type of interior pool finish. The liner is draped over a sand or cement floor,
and locked into the top of the pools wall with a liner track.
WEIR: The device in a skimmer that controls the amount of water coming into the skimmer, and
keeps debris inside. That "flapper-gate" is the weir.
56
MANUFACTURERS and THEIR CONTACT INFORMATION
Manufacturer
3M/Industrial Business
Phone: (651) 733-6486
A.O. Smith
Phone: (937) 667-2431
www.aosmithmotors.com
ABER Hot Tub Mfg.
Phone: (800) 263-7727
www.aberhottubs.com
Acu-Trol
Phone: (800) 273-4667
www.acu-trol.com
Acura Spa Systems, Inc.
Phone: (951) 684-6667
www.acuraspa.com
Air Energy Heat Pumps
Phone: (800) 334-4328
www.air-energy.com
Alden Leeds, Inc.
Phone: (800) 822-5387
www.aldenleeds.com
Aldrich Co.
Phone: (309) 695-2311
www.aldrichco.com
All Valley Solar
Phone: (323) 850-0720
www.allvalleysolar.com
ALL-PRO a Scheu Co.
Phone: (800) 325-7057
www.allpro-heaters.com
ALPS Spas
Phone: (800) 733-7665
www.alps-spas.com
American Leak Detection, Inc.
Phone: (800) 755-6697
www.americanleakdetection.com
Aqua Creek Products, LLC
Phone: (888) 687-3552
www.aquacreek.com
Product Categories
Adhesives,
Concrete
Pump Motors
Spas
Chemical Controllers,
Controls,
Programmable Controls,
Flow, pH ORP Meters
Electromechanical Controls,
Spa Heaters,
Spa Pillows,
Spa Pumps
Heat Pumps,
Above-Ground Pool Heaters,
Spa & Hot Tub Heaters
Algaecides,
Antifreeze,
Bromine,
Pool & Spa Chemicals
In-Ground Pool Heaters,
Spa & Hot Tub Heaters
Solar Equipment
Heaters Accessories
Above-Ground Pool,
In-Ground Vinyl Liner,
Portable Spa
Leak Detection,
Leak Repair
Grate Drain Covers,
Pool Filters,
In-Ground Pool Steps
57
Aqua Jet, LLC
Phone: (800) 337-5032
www.aquajet.cc
Aqua Products, Inc.
Phone: (800) 221-1750
www.aquaproducts.com/aqua
Aqua Vac Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 327-0141
www.aquavacsystems.com
AquaCal, Inc.
Phone: (800) 786-7751
www.aquacal.com
AquaCheck Pool and Spa Test Strips
Phone: (800) 548-4381
www.aquacheck.com
Aquamatic Cover Systems
Phone: (800) 262-4044
www.aquamatic.com
Aquascape Design, Inc.
Phone: (800) 306-6227
www.aquascapedesign.com
Aquatemp Products Corp.
Phone: (310) 225-3333
www.aquatemp.com
Aquatherm, Inc.
Phone: (800) 535-6307
www.warmwater.com
Arch Chemicals. Inc.
Phone: (800) 478-5727
www.archchemicals.com
Automatic Pool Covers, Inc.
Phone: (800) 878-5789
www.automaticpoolcovers.net
AutoPilot Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 922-6246
www.autopilot.com
Bio-Dex Laboratories
Phone: (800) 617-3477
www.bio-dex.com
Automatic Pool Cleaners,
Robotic
Robotic Pool Equipment
Robotic Pool Equipment
Heat Pumps,
Spa & Hot Tub Heater
Test Kits,
Water Analysis
Pool Covers,
Spa Covers
Water Gardens/Ponds,
Waterfalls
Air Blowers,
Ozone Generators,
Spa & Hot Tub Heater,
Spa Lights,
Underwater Lights
In-Ground Pool Heaters,
Solar Heaters
Algaecides,
Pool Chemicals,
pH Adjusters,
Winterizing Products
Automatic Pool Covers,
Safety Pool Covers
Bromine Generators,
Chlorine Generators
Algaecides,
Acid Washing Equipment,
Clarifiers,
58
BioGuard Pool & Spa Products
Phone: (800) 859-7946
www.bioguard.com
BioLab, Inc.
Phone: (678) 502-4000
www.biolabinc.com
Blue Hawaiian Fiberglass Pools
Phone: (888) 840-7699
www.bluehawaiianfiberglasspools.com
Cantar/Polyair Corp.
Phone: (800)448-2343
www.cantar.com
Carefree Clearwater, Ltd.
Phone: (800) 364-5710
www.carefreeclearwater.com
Caretaker Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 762-0647
www.swimcsi.com
CCSI International, Inc.
Phone: (800) 537-8231
www.ccsiusa.com
Chemical Automation Technology
Phone: (800) 657-2287
www.chemauto.com
Chemtrol, Div. of Santa Barbara
Control Systems
Phone: (800) 621-2279
www.sbcontrol.com
Clayton & Lambert
Phone: (800) 626-5819
www.claytonlambert.com
ClearWater Enviro Technologies, Inc.
Phone: (800) 756-7946
www.clearwaterpoolsystems.com
ClearWater Tech, LLC
Phone: (800) 262-0203
www.cwtozone.com
Algaecides,
Chlorine Shock,
Clarifiers,
Algaecides,
Chlorine Shock,
Clarifiers,
Fiberglass Pools,
Wading Pools,
Swim Spas
Fences,
Winter Covers
Algaecides, Anodes,
Sacrificial Catalytic Purifiers,
Ionizers, Mineral Purifiers
Alarms, Gate Doors,
Pool Plans, Fittings
Sun Rooms,
Pool & Spa Enclosures,
Skylights
pH Meters & Controls,
Water Chemistry Sensors,
Water Analysis Equipment
Water Analysis Equipment,
Water Analysis Software,
pH Meters & Controls,
Water Chemistry Sensors
Stainless Steel/Steel Pool Walls,
In-Ground Spas,
In-Ground Vinyl Liner Pools
Antiscale, Water Conditioner,
Ionizers, Ozone Generators,
Scale Controls
Ozone Generators,
Ozone Injectors
59
ClorMatic
Phone: (800) 548-7883
www.clormatic.com
Cover-Pools, Inc.
Phone: (800) 447-2838
www.coverpools.com
Coverstar, Inc.
Phone: (800) 617-7283
www.coverstar.com
Covertech
Phone: (800) 837-8961
www.covertechfab.com
Del Ozone
Phone: (800) 676-1335
www.delozone.com
Doughboy Recreational
Phone: (662) 536-4333
www.doughboy-pools.com
Earth Science Laboratories, Inc.
Phone: (800) 257-9283
www.pristineblue.com
Eco-Matic Salt Water Pool Systems
Phone: (800) 881-2284
www.ecomatic.com
ECOsmarte Planet Friendly, Inc.
Phone: (800) 466-7946
www.ecosmarte.com
Enersol Solar Products
Phone: (800) 884-6444
www.enersol.com
Environmental Pool Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 671-9629
www.dry-air.com
Esther Williams Swimming Pools,
Div. of Delair Group
Phone: (800) 235-0185
www.estherwilliamspools.com
Feherguard Products, Ltd.
Phone: (905) 876-4766
www.feherguard.com
Chlorinators, Chlorine Generators,
Heat Exchangers,
Commercial Pool Equipment
Pool Enclosures,
Above-Ground/In-Ground
Automatic Pool Covers,
Vinyl Repair Kits
Automatic Pool Covers
In-Ground Pool Covers
Spa Covers
Insulation,
Above-Ground/In-Ground Pool Covers,
Solar Blankets, Water Bags
Air injectors, Clarifiers, ORP Meters,
Ozone Generators,
Automatic Suction Pool Cleaners,
Filters, Cartridges,
Above-Ground Pool Ladders, Liners
Algaecides, Pool & Spa Chemicals,
Scale Control, Test Kits,
Nonchlorine Shocking Agents
Algaecides, Bromine Generators,
Chlorine Shocking Agents,
Chlorine Generators
Ionizers, Oxygen Generators
Solar Heater, Solar Collectors,
Solar Equipment
Dehumidifiers, Pool Enclosures,
Above-Ground Pools, Decking, Ladders,
Fiber-Optic Lights,
Tile & Vinyl Adhesives,
Pool & Spa Ladders, Repair Kits
60
Fiberstars
Phone: (800) 327-7877
www.fiberstars.com
Fibre Tech, Inc.
Phone: (800) 393-7283
www.poolpreserver.com
Focus Temp International
Phone: (450) 796-4333
www.focustemp.com
Fort Wayne Pool, Inc.
Phone: (219) 432-8731
www.surfthepool.com
Garrett Liners, Inc.
Phone: (800) 222-3650
www.garrettliners.com
GLB Pool & Spa
Phone: (800) 445-2059
www.GLBPoolSpa.com
Goldline Controls, Inc.
Phone: (800) 343-0826
www.goldlinecontrols.com
Guardian Pool Fence Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 366-7233
www.guardianpoolfence.com
Hanna Instruments, Inc.
Phone: (800) 426-6287
www.hannainst.com
Hayward Pool Products, Inc.
Phone: (888) 429-9273
www.haywardnet.com
Heliocol Solar Pool Heating
Phone: (800) 797-6527
www.heliocol.com
Hydrotech Pool & Spa Products
Phone: (800) 959-7946
Inter-Fab, Inc.
Phone: (800) 737-5386
www.inter-fab.com
Jack's Magic
Phone: (800) 348-1656
www.jacksmagic.com
Jacuzzi Pool Equipment
Phone: (866) 370-2664
Fountains, Lights, Waterfalls
Pool Coating, Pool Finishes,
Resins
Heat Exchangers,
Heat Pumps
Aluminum Coping, Cover Fabrics,
Injection Molding, Foam Pool Walls,
Steel Pool Walls, Steps
Garden/Ponds Water,
Hot Tub & Pool Liners,
Vinyl Repair Kits
Algaecides, Pool & Spa Chemicals,
Enzymes, Winterizing Products
Chlorine Generators,
Freeze-Protection Controls,
Programmable Controls
Pool Enclosures, Fences
Programmable Controls, ORP Meters
Water Analysis Equipment
Automatic Suction Pool Cleaners,
Filters, Heaters, Pumps
Heat Exchangers,
Above-Ground/In-Ground Pool Heaters,
Spa & Hot Tub Heaters, Solar Equipment
Algae & Spot Remover, Algaecides,
Pool & Spa Chemicals, Filter Cleaners
Benches, Water Garden/Ponds,
Fountains, Handrails, Waterfalls,
Ladders, Slides
Algae & Spot Remover, Algaecides,
Chlorine Removers, Rust Stains
Removers, Concrete Cleaners
Cartridge , D.E. Pressure, & Gravel/Sand
Filters, Lights, Pumps, Tanks
61
Kafco Manufacturing Limited
Phone: (888) 721-7665
www.kafko.com
King Technology, Inc.
Phone: (800) 222-0169
www.kingtechnology.com
LaMotte Co.
Phone: (800) 344-3100
www.lamotte.com
Life Saver Pool Fence Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 282-3836
www.poolfence.com
Lifeguard Purification
Phone: (800) 678-7439
www.lifeguardsystems.com
LOOP-LOC, Ltd.
Phone: (800) 562-5667
www.looploc.com
Mazzei Injector Corp.
Phone: (661) 363-6500
www.mazzei.com
Merlin Industries
Phone: (800) 289-1836
www.merlinindustries.com
Miami Filter
Phone: (888) 642-6482
www.miamifilter.com
Micro Pure
Phone: (780) 452-1577
www.micropure.com
N. Jonas & Co., Inc.
Phone: (800) 523-6533
www.njonas.com
Nature2
Phone: 1-800-416-7665
www.nature2.com
Natural Chemistry, Inc.
Phone: (203) 295-2300
www.naturalchemistry.com
Pacific Industries, Inc.
Phone: (800) 833-3800
www.pacificpools.com
Pebble Technology, Inc.
Phone: (800) 937-5058
www.pebbletec.com
Aluminum Coping, Pool Covers,
Skimmer Baskets, Steps
Floating Chemical Feeders,
In-Line Chemical Feeders, Pool & Spa
Chemicals, Chlorinators
Water Analysis Software, ORP Meters,
pH Controls & Meters, TDS Meters, Test
Kits, Labs
Pool Alarms, Fences
Catalytic Purifiers, Programmable
Controls, Ionizers, pH Adjusters,
Controls, Meters
Cover Fabrics, Pool Covers, Safety
Covers
Ozone Injectors,
Venturi Injectors
Covers, Fences, Liners, Swim Training
Equipment, Safety Covers
Pool Filters, Commercial Pool
Equipment
Filter Bags, Cartridges, Media, Zeolite,
First Aid Equipment
Algae & Spot Remover
Algaecides, Antifreeze, Antiscale, Pool
& Spa Chemicals
Pool and Spa Products
Pool & Spa Chemicals, Controllers,
Enzymes, Test Kits
Aluminum Coping, PVC Coping, Pool
Covers, Walls, Safety Covers, Diving
Towers & Stands, Overflow Systems
Chlorinators, Pool Coating & Finishes
62
Pentair Pool Products, Inc.
Phone: (800) 831-7133
www.pentairpool.com
Plastimayd Corp.
Phone: (800) 348-2600
www.plastimayd.com
Polaris Pool Systems
Phone: (800) 822-7933
www.polarispoolsystems.com
PoolGuard Pool Alarms
Phone: 1-800-242-7163
www.poolgaurd.com
PoolMaster Pool Toys
Phone: 1-800-854-1776
www.poolmaster.com
Pool Cover Specialists Nat.'l, Inc.
Phone: (800) 369-5152
www.powertrackcovers.com
Protect-A-Child Pool Fence Systems
Phone: (800) 992-2206
www.protectachild.com
Raypak, Inc.
Phone: (805) 278-5300
www.raypak.com
S.R. Smith
Phone: (888) 677-7776
www.srsmith.com
San Juan Products, Inc.
Phone: (800) 535-7946
www.sanjuanpools.com
Sentry Pool, Inc.
Phone: (800) 443-8625
www.sentrypool.com
Silbrico Corp.
Phone: (800) 323-4287
www.silbrico.com
SmartPool, Inc.
Phone: (888) 560-7665
www.smartpool.com
Speck Pumps
Phone: (800) 223-8538
www.usa.speck-pumps.com
Splash SuperPools
Salt Water Chlorinators, Programmable
Controls, Filters, Heat Pumps, Heaters,
Pumps, Lights, Skimmers
Vinyl Adhesives, PVC Coping, Domes,
Liners, Covers, Repair Kits
Air Blowers, Automatic pool Cleaners,
Chemical Controllers, Spa Chemicals,
Chlorinators, Fountains, Spa Vacuums
Security
Pool Toys
Covers, Cover-Removal Systems, Safety
Covers, Spa Covers, Pumps
Fences
Electromechanical Controls,
Heat Pumps, Heaters
Anchor Sockets, Diving Stands, Boards,
& Towers, Slides, Pool Toys & Games,
Ladders, Rail Goods
Fiberglass Pools, Spa Shells, Spa
Gelcoat, Swim Spas
Aluminum Coping, PVC Coping, Pool
Walls, Swim Spas
D.E. Alternative Filter Media,
Perlite Filter Media
Gate/Door Alarms, Pool Alarms, Solar
Heaters, Lights, Solar Equipment
Pool & Spa Equipment Packs, Spa
Filters, Swim Jets, Pumps, Skimmers,
Multiport Valves
Pool Decking, Ladders, Portable Pools &
63
Phone: (800) 927-7527
www.splashpools.com
Sta-Rite Pool & Spa Group
Phone: 1-800-752-0183
www.staritepool.com
Teledyne-Laars / Jandy Heaters
Phone: 1-800-227-1442
www.jandy.com
Trevi Pools, Inc.
Phone: (888) 777-0447
www.etrevi.com
Unicel Filter Cartridges
Phone: 1-818-678-0400
www.unicelfilters.com
United Chemical Corp.
Phone: (800) 524-5550
www.swimpool.com
Viking Pools, Inc.
Phone: (800) 854-7665
www.vikingpools.com
Waterpik Technologies
Phone: (800) 227-1442
www.jandy.com
Waterway Plastics
Phone: (805) 981-0262
www.waterwayplastics.com
Zeotech Corp.
Phone: (800) 575-7887
www.zeotechcorp.com
Spas
Swimming Pool, Spa and Aquatic
Equipment
Swimming Pool, Spa and Aquatic
Equipment
Pool Liners, Walls
Canada's Largest
Pool Filters
Pool Chemicals, Algaecides, Alkalines,
Bromine, Clarifiers, Filter Cleaners pH
Adjuster, Scale Controls
Fiberglass Pools, Spa Shells, Swim Spas
Chlorine Generators, Programmable
Controls, Filters, Heaters Lights, Valves,
Waterfalls
Air Blowers, Filters, Injection Molding,
Spa Lights, Main Drains Spa Jets, Pump,
Skimmers
D.E. Alternative Filter Media,
Zeolite Filter Media
64
WEB URLs
www.ecosmarte.com
Aquamatic Cover Systems:
www.aquamaticcovers.com
Dolphin Pool Cleaner:
www.dolphin-swimming-pool-cleaners.com
Hayward Pool Products:
www.haywardnet.com
Inter-Fab, Inc.:
www.interfab.com
Jandy Pool Products, Inc.:
www.jandy.com
Jacuzzi Pool Products:
www.jacuzzipoolproducts.com
Merlin Industries:
www.merlinindustries.com
Pentair Pool Products:
www.pentairpool.com/poolproducts.htm
Sta-Rite:
www.starite.com
Cantar Pool Products
www.cantar.com/home.asp
Plastimayd Corp.:
www.plastimayd.com
Protect-A-Child Pool Fence Systems:
www.protectachild.com
S.R. Smith:
www.srsmith.com
The Pool Tool Co.:
www.pooltoolco.com
Waterway Plastics:
www.waterwayplastics.com
ZEOBrite:
www.zeobrite.com
65
TOLL-FREE SUPPORT LINES
In this day of on-line emphasis it is difficult to bring your computer to the pool. The
following toll-free support lines are offered by manufacturers to encourage successful
pool ownership and safety.
American Association of Poison Control Centers: 1-800-222-1222
ABER Hot Tub Mfg.
Phone: (800) 263-7727
Aquamatic Cover Systems
Phone: (800) 262-4044
CCSI International, Inc.
Phone: (800) 537-8231
Acu-Trol
Phone: (800) 273-4667
Aquascape Design, Inc.
Phone: (800) 306-6227
Chemical Automation Technology
Phone: (800) 657-2287
Air Energy Heat Pumps
Phone: (800) 334-4328
Aquatherm, Inc.
Phone: (800) 535-6307
Chemtrol, Div. of Santa Barbara
Control Systems
Phone: (800) 621-2279
Alden Leeds, Inc.
Phone: (800) 822-5387
Arch Chemicals. Inc.
Phone: (800) 478-5727
Clayton & Lambert
Phone: (800) 626-5819
ALL-PRO a Scheu Co.
Phone: (800) 325-7057
Automatic Pool Covers, Inc.
Phone: (800) 878-5789
ClearWater Enviro Technologies, Inc.
Phone: (800) 756-7946
ALPS Spas
Phone: (800) 733-7665
AutoPilot Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 922-6246
ClearWater Tech, LLC
Phone: (800) 262-0203
Aqua Creek Products, LLC
Phone: (888) 687-3552
Bio-Dex Laboratories
Phone: (800) 617-3477
ClorMatic
Phone: (800) 548-7883
American Leak Detection, Inc.
Phone: (800) 755-6697
BioGuard Pool & Spa
Products
Phone: (800) 859-7946
Cover-Pools, Inc.
Phone: (800) 447-2838
Aqua Jet, LLC
Phone: (800) 337-5032
Blue Hawaiian Fiberglass Pools
Phone: (888) 840-7699
Coverstar, Inc.
Phone: (800) 617-7283
Aqua Products, Inc.
Phone: (800) 221-1750
Cantar/Polyair Corp.
Phone: (800)448-2343
Covertech
Phone: (800) 837-896
Aqua Vac Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 327-0141
Carefree Clearwater, Ltd.
Phone: (800) 364-5710
Del Ozone
Phone: (800) 676-1335
AquaCal, Inc.
Phone: (800) 786-7751
Caretaker Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 762-0647
Earth Science Laboratories, Inc.
Phone: (800) 257-9283
AquaCheck Pool and Spa
Test Strips
Phone: (800) 548-4381
Inter-Fab, Inc.
Phone: (800) 737-5386
Polaris Pool Systems
Phone: (800) 822-7933
Eco-Matic Salt Water Pool
Systems
Phone: (800) 881-2284
Jack's Magic
Phone: (800) 348-1656
Pool Cover Specialists Nat.'l, Inc.
Phone: (800) 369-5152
66
Phone: (800) 466-7946
Jacuzzi Pool Equipment
Phone: (866) 370-2664
Protect-A-Child Pool Fence Systems
Phone: (800) 992-2206
Enersol Solar Products
Phone: (800) 884-6444
Kafco Manufacturing Limited
Phone: (888) 721-7665
S.R. Smith
Phone: (888) 677-7776
Environmental Pool Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 671-9629
King Technology, Inc.
Phone: (800) 222-0169
San Juan Products, Inc.
Phone: (800) 535-7946
Esther Williams Swimming Pools,
Div. of Delair Group
Phone: (800) 235-0185
LaMotte Co.
Phone: (800) 344-3100
Sentry Pool, Inc.
Phone: (800) 443-8625
Fiberstars
Phone: (800) 327-7877
Lifeguard Purification
Phone: (800) 678-7439
Silbrico Corp.
Phone: (800) 323-4287
Fibre Tech, Inc.
Phone: (800) 393-7283
Life Saver Pool Fence Systems, Inc.
Phone: (800) 282-3836
SmartPool, Inc.
Phone: (888) 560-7665
Garrett Liners, Inc.
Phone: (800) 222-3650
LOOP-LOC, Ltd.
Phone: (800) 562-5667
Speck Pumps
Phone: (800) 223-8538
www.glasspackfilter.com
Phone : (800)-466-7946
Miami Filter
Phone: (888) 642-6482
Splash SuperPools
Phone: (800) 927-7527
GLB Pool & Spa
Phone: (800) 445-2059
Phone: (800) 937-5058
Trevi Pools, Inc.
Phone: (888) 777-0447
Goldline Controls, Inc.
Phone: (800) 343-0826
Phone: (800) 833-3800
United Chemical Corp.
Phone: (800) 524-5550
Guardian Pool Fence Systems
Phone: (800) 366-7233
N. Jonas & Co., Inc.
Phone: (800) 523-6533
Waterpik Technologies
Phone: (800) 227-1442
Hanna Instruments, Inc.
Phone: (800) 426-6287
Phone: (800) 833-3800
Zeotech Corp
Phone: (800) 575-7887
Hayward Pool Products, Inc.
Phone: (888) 429-9273
Phone: (800) 937-5058
Waterway Plastics
Phone: (805) 981-0262
Heliocol Solar Pool Heating
Phone: (800) 797-6527
Pentair Pool Products, Inc.
Phone: (800) 831-7133
Viking Pools, Inc.
Phone: (800) 854-7665
Hydrotech Pool & Spa Products
Phone: (800) 959-7946
Plastimayd Corp.
Phone: (800) 348-2600
67

Swimming Pool

Transcription

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