Tucson - American Gem Trade Association
Transcription
Tucson - American Gem Trade Association
Summer 2011 AGTA gemfair ™ tucson sparkling sapphires made in america member profile : yehouda saketkhou media exposure for color 1 AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 AGTA BOARD OF DIRECTORS PR E SIDEN T Benjamin Hackman Intercolor, Inc. VICE PR E SIDEN TS Robert Bentley Robert Bentley Company, Inc. Kambiz Sabouri Gem 2000, Inc. SECR ETA RY John Bachman John M. Bachman, Inc. M E M B E R S H I P B E N E F I T S The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of United States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls. Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members representing leading colored gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, designers, colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals. AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing to the TR E A S U R E R Sampat Poddar Byrex Gems, Inc. DIR ECTOR S Peter Bazar Imperial-Deltah, Inc. Ruben Bindra B & B Fine Gems Sushil Goyal Liberty Gems, Inc. Betty Sue King King’s Ransom Bill Larson Pala International, Inc. Association’s strict Code of Ethics & full disclosure of gemstone enhancements. Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services: Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show, and AGTA Pavilions at the JA New York Show & The Smart Jewelry Show in Chicago. Members are featured in the printed AGTA Source Directory and online version. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network of fellow gemstone professionals. Over 15,000 copies are distributed! Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry, gemstone & jewelry fashion with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism. Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Declared Value, FedEx Kinko’s, GE Money Luxury Program, insurance programs through Glenn Lehrer Lehrer Designs, Inc. Association Health Programs, the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program Gerry Manning Manning International, Inc. Members can also access our Members Only Forum and gain valuable knowledge Niveet Nagpal Omi Gems, Inc. Joe Orlando Stuller, Inc. Ambrish Sethi Manak Jewels and car rental services through Avis and Budget. from our GemFair Tucson Seminar DVD and eLearning Platform. The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from the competition.p PR ISM is distributed quarterly for American Gem Trade Association Members. Fo r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t : Lois Wacholtz Christopher’s Fine Jewelry Joshua Garcia American Gem Trade Association John “Bear” Williams Bear Essentials 3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234 Cynthia Zava Cynthia Rénee Company www.agta.org www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com 800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX ON THE COVER: PA S T P R E S I D E N T Barbara Lawrence Boston Gems & Findings, Inc. 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning star sapphire ring by Schmitt Jewelers and agate and lapis lazuli cufflinks by Mark Michael Designs. Photographed by Jack Deutsch. CHIEF E X ECUTI V E OFFICER Douglas K. Hucker American Gem Trade Association AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 2 L e t t e r F r o m t h e newest offerings, our colored gemstone & cultured pearl eLearning Platform www.agta.org/education/elearning & our social networking site AGTA Community www.agtacommunity.ning.com. Time and again as I talk to jewelers across the country, whether it is in seminars or just casual business discussions, I hear similar concerns about their businesses and their ability to maintain profitability. As you would expect, my initial response is to encourage them to grow their colored gemstone and cultured pearl departments. It is no secret that these categories continue to produce the greatest margins of any other department and can be the catalyst to continued success and heftier profits. Improving these departments, however, is not without challenge, and like any other segment of your business, needs a firm commitment and careful planning. The two greatest concerns that jewelers share with me are: 1. Getting their staff up to speed on colored gemstone product knowledge and pumping up their confidence during the presentation. 2. The ever present concern over the quality and value of the gemstone and cultured pearl purchases. This concern includes their desire to have complete confidence in their vendors, and that the materials they are purchasing are accurately represented with respect to treatments. In short, they would like their staff to be more comfortable and capable at the counter when making a presentation and they need to know that they are doing business with suppliers who provide honest products at a good value. If this sounds like where you are in your business, then check out AGTA’s 3 AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 eLearning Platform AGTA has created an online eLearning platform to provide quality, affordable educational modules on colored gemstones and pearls. The eLearning Platform is webbased, and allows associates to work at their own pace at work or from home. The lessons are 10 -15 minutes each, so associates can take a short break from the floor each day to complete a lesson or two or access the content at their leisure from their home computer. The content of the courses provides solid information to build confidence through product knowledge. The gemstone modules give the associate key selling points on quality factors, origin, history, lore, care & cleaning and more. Content will continue to be added to the platform, so this is not a single static course, but a continually evolving learning resource. It is also very affordable. Your first five associates are free if you are an AGTA Member, or become an AGTA Member. Additional associates are just $25 a person for Members. For non-Members, the annual license fee is $350 for up to five associates and $75 per person for each additional associate. AGTA Student Members may access to the eLearning platform FREE for one year. Current modules include: Introduction to Color • AGTA: The Authority in Color • Color, Life, Gems and You • A Gemstone’s Value • A Gemstone’s Appeal AGTA Cultured Pearls • Pearl Basics - Exotic • Pearl Basics - Organic • Pearl Basics – Rare The Classic Gemstones • Blue Sapphire • Ruby • Emerald AGTA GemFair™ Tucson Seminars • 27 sessions from the 2011 Show CEO • Trends, Business, Travelogs, Appraisals, and Sales & Marketing For stores with large numbers of staff or multiple locations, please contact Adam Graham at adam@agta.org for volume pricing. You can sign up today by calling 800-972-1162, emailing info@agta.org or going to www.agta.org/education. AGTA Online Community One of the primary reasons that thousands of jewelers make an annual pilgrimage to Tucson each year to attend the AGTA GemFair™ is their appreciation of working in a comfortable environment, working with suppliers who they respect and trust, and the ability to access an incredibly comprehensive selection of colored gemstones, cultured pearls and exquisite new designs in colored gemstone jewelry. Now AGTA brings this marketplace to you, in our new online social networking site, AGTA Online Community. Looking for ideas to boost sales? Have questions about specific gemstones? Looking for a rare gemstone? Just want to meet more like-minded businesspeople? Then try the AGTA Online Community. With the importance of social media today, AGTA has created this online community strictly for its Members. This platform was designed to help Members network and communicate with the intention of helping grow their businesses, especially in the colored gemstone and pearl categories. It essentially recreates the comfortable and risk free atmosphere people enjoy at GemFair Tucson and our pavilion at the JCK Las Vegas Show. Access to the AGTA Online Community is completely FREE to all AGTA Member companies and their employees. To register log on to www.agtacommunity.ning.com. Sincerely, Douglas K. Hucker Chief Executive Officer Y ou see it everywhere…television, magazines, movies, billboards… models, celebrities, royalty— they’re all wearing colored gemstones and pearls. The American Gem Trade Association is here to help you turn this opportunity into successful, sustainable business! At the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, from January 31 to February 5, Interested in Exhibiting? 2012, in the safe, secure comfort of the Tucson Convention Center, We had an excellent show in 2011 and all signs point to another great your experience will range from a “focus-and-find” assignment to an show in 2012. If you have not exhibited with us in the past, or it has adventurous treasure hunt. You’ll network with U.S.- and Canada- been a few years since you last exhibited with us, make plans to join based professionals who adhere to a strict ethical code that supports us in Tucson for the best trade show experience in the industry. quality, value and selection—sources you can trust! Plus, the seminars and workshops will educate and inspire! We bring in thousands of qualified buyers with fantastic networking events, a free seminar program and the promise of ethical exhibitors Success comes in many colors. Discover them all at the AGTA with beautiful products at competitive prices. AGTA GemFair™ GemFair™ Tucson. Tucson is the buyers’ first opportunity to refresh their inventory after the holiday season, so they are serious buyers! Shop for all your needs under one roof! All the components you need to sell color in one convenient place. AGTA GemFair™ Tucson AGTA GemFair™ Tucson - By the Numbers offers you first-rates exhibitors. Meet the people that mean the most • 8,600 Qualified Buyers to your business – the world’s top suppliers: • 5,200 Buyer Companies • 28:1 the Best Buyer to Exhibitor Ratio in the Industry • 300+ Exhibitors • Natural Colored Gemstone and Cultured Pearl Suppliers • Designer Jewelers • Antique & Estate Dealers Standard 10’ x 10’ Booth includes: • Tools and Equipment Professionals • Show Directory Listing (printed and online) • Colored Diamond Dealers • 500 Watts of Power • Colored Gemstone Jewelry Manufacturers • FREE Promotional Opportunities! • Industry-Related Service and Supply Companies • 6’ Draped Table and Two Chairs • Company Signage Check out www.agta.org for a current list of current 2012 exhibitors • Carpeting and up-to-date information. • Lights & Electricity • Free Wi-Fi Registration Remember, AGTA Members of Record will automatically be AGTA invests in an extensive marketing and promotion campaign to preregistered for the show. Also, any staff who attended the show make your experience successful: in 2011 will be preregistered. To add additional staff, please fax the • Over 90,000 pieces of direct mail. request on company letterhead to 972-620-2452. • AGTA’s weekly newsletter to 12,000 people. • Targeted eblasts to over 19,000 Buyers. If you attended the GemFair in 2011, you will automatically be preregistered for the 2012 show. If you did not attend last year, you For more information, please conatct Mary Lou Keen, Trade can register here: http://www.agta.org/tradeshows. Show Manager, at 800-972-1162 or at marylou@agta.org. AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 4 www.diamondgraphics.com 5 AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 Hotel Reservation Website Open T he hotel reservation website for the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson is now open at http://www.agta.org/tradeshows/gft-travel.html. AGTA negotiates preferred rates at several properties in Tucson for GemFair attendees. Make your reservations now to ensure that you get a room, as hotels sell out quickly. AGTA 2012 Preferred Hotels & Rates Country Inn & Suites $149.00 Courtyard by Marriott $159.00 Tucson International Airport Courtyard by Marriott Williams Center $159.00 Doubletree Tucson Reid Park $179.00 Embassy Suites-Paloma Village $179.00 Four Points by Sheraton $150.00 Hilton Garden Inn $159.00 Tucson International Airport Hotel Arizona $189.00 Marriott University Park $194.00 (AGTA headquarter hotel) Residence Inn Marriott $209.00 TownePlace Suites by Marriott $140.00 Tucson International Airport TownePlace Suites by Marriott $135.00 Williams Center Viscount Suite Hotel $170.00 Westin LaPaloma Resort & Spa Tucson $199.00 Call now and take advantage of special offers through the Housing Connection, the official travel agency for 2012 AGTA GemFair™. The Housing Connection http://www.agta.org/tradeshows/gft-travel.html Customer service: 888-665-1370 or 801-505-5265 (International) Hours: 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. CST, Monday through Friday Complimentary Shuttle Service Complimentary shuttle service will be provided from all AGTA Preferred Hotels to the Tucson Convention Center EXCEPT the Embassy Suites Paloma Village, Hotel Arizona, The Country Inn & Suites and The Westin La Paloma. Service begins at 7:30 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. and resumes at 3:00 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. Schedules will be posted in the lobby of each AGTA Preferred Hotel during the show. The AGTA GemFair™ Tucson opens Tuesday, January 31, and closes Sunday, February 5, 2012. If you have any questions about the AGTA GemFair Tucson, please email shows@agta.org or call 800-972-1162.p AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 6 S S p a r k l i n g b y l o r r a i n e a p p h i r e s d e p a s q u e W ith fashion’s brilliant comeback of all-things-colorful, it’s blue). But as L.A. jewelry designer and AGTA Member, Dallas Prince not surprising that fancy sapphires have fast-become jewelry’s must- explains, “No other gemstone has the elegant beauty and vibrant have. From a kaleidoscopic palette of intense pinks, purples and color palette as the sapphire.” With a strong celebrity clientele, many oranges to pastel greens, yellows and lavenders, there’s a sapphire shade for everyone—whatever your favorite color happens to be! choose Prince’s jewelry to wear at various red carpet events. Speaking of red carpets, at the 83rd Annual Academy Awards®, When you see this gemstone (which also holds the honor of being fancy sapphire style was a popular choice among Hollywood’s September’s birthstone) in any color other than blue, it is called, glitterati. Remember Penelope Cruz’s dazzling 10-carat pink quite fittingly, “a fancy sapphire.” sapphire ring? And Marisa Tomei’s bold yellow sapphire “Oscar earrings”? “In my opinion, sapphires have become the new diamond,” The Key Fashion Colors says Prince. That said, all through next year, “On the runways, the ‘hot spice’ colors will be particularly hot—curry, paprika, cayenne, pimento and The Allure, Attraction, and Attributes cinnamon,” says David Wolfe, creative director of the international “Well, sapphires are more rare than diamonds,” says jewelry fashion color and trend forecasting agency, The Doneger Group in designer and AGTA Member Jeffrey Bilgore, “and they absolutely New York City. Subsequently, fancy sapphires in vivid pinks and offer a purer color than natural colored diamonds.” Bilgore, who’s oranges are really set to sizzle! But side-by-side, so, too, are some of won 18 awards in AGTA’s annual Spectrum Awards™ competition the softer, more delicate sapphire hues, those coordinating with what for jewelry design and gem cutting, adds, “The richer hues of fancy Wolfe calls fashion’s “powder-puff pales--like baby pink, salmon, color sapphires exceed the saturation of natural colored diamonds— tea rose, pastel lilac and lemon icing.” Hence, fancy sapphires in and at a fraction of the cost. Even the pastels in fancy sapphires are cake-frost pinks, peaches, lavenders, yellows and greens will be better than the pastels in colored diamonds. In the intense shades, the perfect fashion accessories. top color in a vivid pink diamond doesn’t look anything like a high- Did jewelry designers have a crystal ball? If not, how did so quality vivid pink sapphire.” many know to focus their newest collections on sapphire’s sparkling Another award-winning jewelry designer and AGTA Member, spectrum? When asked, most say they’ve always been dazzled by Jane Taylor, known for her versatile everyday jewelry for women, sapphire—and not only the rich and velvety blue variety that most says, “Sapphires are sparkly like diamonds, too.” Many pieces in of us “mere mortals” think of when we hear the gemstone’s name Taylor’s newest collection, “Color Candy”®, show off the multi- (understandable, since its name in Latin, Sapphiru, actually means hues of sapphire, and the designer emphasizes that “sapphires are so 7 AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 much more affordable than diamonds”--making sapphire jewelry the Creative Cuts for Individual Style perfect jewelry accessory for a woman to buy for herself this year, When talking about individuality, Nagpal says more people are but not break the bank in doing so. asking for the out-of-the-ordinary fancy-cut sapphires, too. “For very How much more affordable? “A top-quality pink sapphire costs less than one-fifteenth—yes, 1/15th—than the cost of a pink expensive jewelry, traditional ovals, cushions and rounds are still the diamond,” explains AGTA Member Jack Abraham, a supplier more fancy sapphires in rose-cuts, briolettes, slices and rough cuts, of gemstones to top designers, manufacturing companies and too. Contemporary designers are using them more in their collections retail jewelers. for a generally more organic and freeform look—less formal.” most popular fancy sapphires but, over the last year, people want Add to that, since a sapphire is so durable, it’s the perfect AGTA Member Diana Widman is one of those designers. Her gemstone for bracelets and rings—great for fashion’s stackable “Big Sky Collection” is based on non-uniform-shaped raw sapphires bangles and bands, where you can layer on pieces in multi-colors from Montana in a palette that mixes complementary combinations of sapphires to create different and individual looks. The gem is of shades of slate, teal, mauve and sage. “Most people think sapphire ranked 9 on the Moh’s Scale of hardness, with only the diamond is dark blue only,” she says, “so when a woman sees the wide array being harder with its 10 ranking. “Still,” Abraham adds, “because of colors, there’s always that element of surprise. It’s different and sapphires are denser, they’re actually less brittle than diamonds. This fun and definitely for the woman who wants something unusual, not combination of hardness and lack of brittleness makes your sapphire what everyone else is wearing.” jewelry very easy to care for.” . . . And the perfect choice as a center gemstone for an engagement ring. According to AGTA Board Member Niveet Nagpal To see the hautest looks visit addmorecolortoyourlife.comp Top from left to right: And not just blue sapphire, a la Kate Middleton, the new Duchess Jane Taylor’s Color Candy® Collection orange and pink sapphire bangle. Jane Taylor’s Color Candy® Collection orange sapphire ring. Diana Widman’s Big Sky Collection 20 cts. Montana sapphire slices pendant. Diana Widman’s Big Sky Collection 40 cts. Montana sapphire slices pendant. of Cambridge. “Brides are showing more interest in yellow and Bottom from left to right: pink sapphires, too. They’re for a woman who wants something Ray Griffith’s Disco multi-colored sapphire (6.30 ct.) ring. Omi Gems 5.14 ct. pink sapphire ring. Richard Krementz Gemstones 19.71 cts. natural sapphire bracelet. Richard Krementz Gemstones 7.30 ct. yellow sapphire ring. of Omi Gems in Los Angeles, who also supplies some of the finest gems in the world to the jewelry industry, “I’m seeing now more modern-thinking brides choosing sapphires for engagement rings.” of great value but who also wants something special that shows her individuality.” AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 8 M b y a d e i n d e b o r a h a M e r i c a y o n i c k C olored gemstones like sapphire, opal and peridot are as American as baseball and apple pie. In fact, at least 60 different gemstone types have been/and are currently found in the United States; 80% of which come from about a dozen states mainly in the West—with the most important gemstones including agate, coral, feldspar, garnet, jasper, pearl, quartz, shell, tourmaline and turquoise. While exotic, remote places in Africa, India, Australia and Brazil quartz from the original Sixteen to One Mine in California. may come to mind when thinking of these gems, they’re actually A look at what the leading gem-producing states are bringing found in our own backyard. Historically, gemstones have been to market provides an overview of what’s available in American produced in what is now the United States for thousands of years. gemstones. Native Americans produced turquoise, flint, amber, shells, obsidian and other materials for use in jewelry, beads, carvings and tools. Arizona is a top producer of gem quality turquoise and peridot. Turquoise, the official state gemstone, is produced as a by-product “The U.S. is highly mineralized,” described Bill Heher of of copper mining in various locations throughout the state, and some Rare Earth Mining Co., Trumbull, Connecticut, and Member of the production is a result of continuous mining efforts. Labor intensive, American Gem Trade Association. “American gem offerings have material must be hand-extracted. Colors and matrix patterns vary by expanded with production of gems like agate, sunstone, chrysocolla, deposit—Bisbee turquoise is deep blue with chocolate brown matrix; tourmaline, hematite, lapis, opal, red beryl, jade, azurite, and opalized Kingman is bright blue with black matrix; and Sleeping Beauty, from fluorite, even “Herkimer” diamonds from New York and coral from the largest producing turquoise mine in North America, is a dark blue the southern states. A friend recently told me about a new jade from with no matrix. Alaska. The list is huge and growing, [albeit] not as exponential as the earlier days.” Mined on Apache reservations, peridot is mostly from the San Carlos Mesa and Buell Park areas of the state. Mesa mining is open- In his 30+ years in business, Heher said the American gem market face, with explosives and earth-moving equipment brought in only has matured, solidly competing against at least 100 other nations when needed. Peridot occurs primarily in basalt, or lava rock, and who export rough and cut gemstones, as well as finished gemstone can be found in several locations. San Carlos is called the most highly jewelry. However, gemstone mining is conducted, predominantly concentrated deposit of gem-quality peridot in the world. on a small scale, either as a byproduct of big ore mining, or small Amethyst is found in several locations in Arizona, but some operations. He expects that to remain the same, until a well-funded of the highest quality material in the world comes from high atop producer comes on the scene, able to meet the high costs of mining Four Peaks in the Tonto National Forest. Access is by helicopter in the U.S. today. or harrowing trails. Deposits occur in quartzite faults so blasting Heher said many gem savvy wholesalers have amassed large is impossible; hand extraction is the only method used. In the last collections over the years and they bring material out as market century, the mine has changed hands many times, with its current demand dictates. At the AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas owner biologist Kurt Cavano running things since 1997. An AGTA Show in June, he sold out of 20-year-old stock he had of golden Member, Commercial Mineral Company (CMC), handles its cutting 9 AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 and marketing. It’s believed the mine has decades of amethyst left. While many of these deposits are no longer active, several maintain Colors range from pink and lilac to violet and rich purple with red limited production, mainly done by hand. glints—comparable to fine Siberian. CMC’s Mike Romanella said Unique to California is a rare bright blue barium titanium silicate, production is minimal, but is hopeful it will resume later this year. benitoite. While the mineral occurs in other places, only California Fortunately, CMC bought substantial rough mined in the 70s, cutting produces gem quality gemstones. Discovered in San Benito County a nice selection of gemstones from 5-25 carats. in 1907, benitoite is the state’s official gem. Arizona also produces agate and jasper, and gem quality garnets Montana is sapphire country. Yogo Gulch is the most famous, can be found scattered throughout the northeastern part of the state, producing a variety of colors including blue, blue-green, green, pink, in what is called the Four Corners, where Arizona, New Mexico, purple, yellow and orange. The gravel bars along the Missouri River Utah and Colorado meet. The garnets, which are petite pea-size, north of Helena produce sapphires and gold, as well as a small deposit smooth and round are collected by the Navajo and sold in bulk to the at Dry Cottonwood Creek near Deer Lodge. But the quiet giant of all gem trade. Often they’re referred to as “Anthill” garnets because tiny the deposits is Gem Mountain. Mining there started in 1892, with crystals are thrown out on the surface of the ground as ants excavate large-scale commercial operations selling production of small, round their nests. Ninety percent of the material is the deep ruby red color sapphire rough to the Swiss watch industry for bearings until the of pyrope garnet with its brightest colors in sizes under 2 carats. late 1920s when synthetic sapphire was invented; Gem Mountain Recently, new opal material was found in Arizona’s Santa Rita Mountains. Heher debuted it at the AGTA GemFair™ at JCK Las is currently a dig-for-fee operation. State gems are sapphire and Montana agate. Vegas in June. The claim, which extends into Mexico, has been Idaho produces almost every important mineral except oil, gas, mined on a small level, by hand for 20 years, and likely holds at least and coal—establishing the territory in 1863 with the discovery of another 20 years of material. “Jasper and other gems are found with gold. In gemsstones, Idaho is known as the Gem State producing an it, so gemstones display a candy stripe effect in a variety of shades array of gemstones including agate, jasper, quartz, almandite garnet, including blue, which carries small flashes of full color fire.” Found jade, topaz, zircon, tourmaline and opal—some in yellow or blue in geodes, about 5% of the material yields picture jasper landscapes. facet grade and fire opal varieties. The Coeur d’Alene area is known California is best known for tourmaline and turquoise. Pala, as one of the world’s richest mineral areas. The star garnet—in dark a small, mostly Native American community in San Diego County, purple or plum colors, with four rays in the star, sometimes six as in has been producing tourmaline since the late 1890s, yielding more sapphire – is also found here. gemstones than any other deposit in the northern hemisphere, with Maine boasts many pegmatite quarries that have long been pink the regional specialty. It also is the area where morganite was important as commercial sources of industrial minerals, gem stock, discovered, as well as the first significant site of kunzite. and specimens interesting to collectors. Yet none is more famous The production of turquoise in the state can be traced back to than Mount Mica in Paris, America’s first gem pegmatite. Gem- pre-Colombian Native Americans in what is now San Bernardino quality tourmaline was discovered there in 1820 and has been found County. It has also been produced in Imperial and Inyo Counties. sporadically ever since. Tourmaline is the state gem. The best Maine AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 10 tourmalines rival those from renowned locations like California, was not until 1985 that the company succeeded in cultivating on a Brazil and the Himalayas. Crystals from the state range from large scale. The shell company was sold in 1991, and two years ago, microscopic to over a foot long. his daughter and company president, Gina Latendresse sold the farm Nevada is a major producer of turquoise, next to Arizona, with to a promoter of cultured pearl tours. “They harvest pearls on the more than 120 mines, yielding significant quantities. Unlike elsewhere farm, but in limited production. Our supply of pearls is substantial, in the U.S., most Nevada mines have been worked primarily for their and built over the years.” gem turquoise and very little has been recovered as a byproduct Also recognized for his contributions to America pearl cultivation of other mining operations. Nevada turquoise is found in nuggets. and shell production is James Peach, United Pearl Co., Camden. He Because of the geology of the state’s deposits, a majority of material said the “shell rush” initially centered in the Tennessee River Valley, is hard and dense, and comes in a bevy of colors and matrix patterns, but spread throughout the Mississippi River systems. He described enhancement not required. While nearly every county in the state 1960 to 1990 as the greatest production period for natural American has yielded turquoise, the main sources are in Lander and Esmeralda pearls. He does not see those levels achieved again, in part, because counties. Nevada also is known for its intense black fire opal, the of the dramatic decline of Japanese akoya production, a major user state gem, from the Virgin Valley. of shell bead, and increased production of Chinese freshwaters that Oregon is internationally known for producing some of the best do not use beads. “Because demand for American shell is gone, it has gem-quality feldspar in the world. One of the most popular gemstones impacted secondary production of American pearls. But this will just of the state, and the state gemstone, is red labradorite, also known as enhance their value.” sunstone. Sunstone occurs in a variety of colors including yellow, National Treasures pink, red, salmon, green and blue-green, and contains microscopic AGTA Member Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House, copper platelets that yield a golden-red play of color. Production is Vancouver, Washington, sees this translating in growing sales for his labor intensive, screened by hand from soils that have formed above latest Gem America collection, featuring 19 gemstones that adhere to the basalts. The state is also known for producing a variety of agates, its fair and transparent mine-to-market protocols. jaspers and obsidians. Besides various agate, jasper and quartz, the line includes such Tennessee has a global reputation for its lustrous, organically unique gemstones as bertrandite (lavender to purple opalized fluorite shaped river pearls, and shell sold as seed material to the cultured from Utah), rhodonite (rose to red silicate mineral from Colorado), pearl industry, thanks to the industry’s two leading pioneers, the late and variscite (green to light blue mineral from the phosphate group John Latendresse and James Peach. that looks similar to turquoise and is found in Utah.) Latendresse, after starting the Tennessee Shell Company in Today excitement over American gemstones is on an upswing as Camden in 1954, founded the American Pearl Co. in 1961, bringing the “Buy American” mantra continues to pick up speed. A July 2010 pearl cultivation to the Tennessee River. After spending over $5 Adweek Media/Harris Poll indicates that three in five Americans (61 million and 20 years developing new techniques for domestic percent) say they’re more likely to purchase something identified as mollusks, the first marketable pearls were harvested in 1983, but it “Made in America."p 11 A G T A P R I S M | S U M M E R 2 0 1 1 “The primary goal of education is not only to increase product knowledge, but to increase sales! That is the difference with DCA’s Advanced Jewelry Sales Course.” – Terry W. Chandler, President/CEO, Diamond Council of America Praise for Advanced Jewelry Sales “The Advanced Jewelry Sales Course is like nothing else that exists in our industry. It is complete and thorough, yet current, interesting and exciting for sales people. There’s not a sales person out there – even the most experienced – who wouldn’t benefit from taking this course.” — Kate Peterson, President and CEO, Performance Concepts “The DCA course bridges the critical gap between understanding the concepts of selling jewelry and the ability to practically apply these concepts at the sales counter.” — David Peters, Director of Education & Member Services, Jewelers of America “Take this course. Sell more jewelry. It’s that simple.” — Shane Decker, President & CEO of Ex-Sell-Ence Sales Academy FREE TRIAL! Contact us for your FREE preview chapter. Call 615.385.5301 or visit www.advancedjewelrysales.com. See Us At: JCK - Booth #L112 June 3-6 www.diamondcouncil.org AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 12 Member Profile: Yehouda Saketkh o u Y ehouda Saketkhou has grown up in the jewelry world from when he was a teenager. He became serious about designing and building his own brand in 2001. Saketkhou officially opened the doors of YAEL Diamonds for business on May 14, 2001. The company since then has rapidly grown and is now headquartered in beautiful downtown San Francisco. In 2007, YAEL Diamonds officially changed names to YAEL Diamonds DBA YAEL Designs, as its flagship branded name. YAEL Designs is a design center for cutting edge, elegant and expressive jewelry. They offer unique one-of-a-kind pieces that exemplify excellent craftsmanship, quality and design. Their vision, to be one of the most desired providers of fine jewelry, has pushed them to be adaptive and responsive to an ever changing industry. “The internet and social media have transformed the competitive landscape of the fine jewelry industry dramatically, allowing boutique designers like ours to compete on equal footing with well-established brands. Aside from showcasing our designs online and telling our story, we are actively building a community via our blog and Facebook page. Facebook allows us to connect and engage luxury consumers directly and get instant feedback on the designs even before they “After we entered the first Spectrum Awards, AGTA had the biggest impact on our business. For a young designer, AGTA did a tremendous job helping us grow and we enjoy working with AGTA to this day.” Ring in 18K white gold featuring a 6.47 ct. fire opal and 0.85 ctw. of diamonds. 13 A G T A P R I S M | S U M M E R 2 0 1 1 Bracelet in 18K two tone gold with 3.98 cts. of tsavorite garnets, 4.43 ctw. of black diamonds and 1.10 ctw. of white diamonds. are manufactured.” Their “Fancy Yourself a Designer” Facebook he resides in, San Francisco. Many of his designs are often inspired challenge is interactive and clever. It asks for their “fans” to select by the surrounding nature, whether it’s the Pacific Ocean, the fog from various sketches and vote. The winning design is then produced or the surrounding redwood forests. Saketkhou’s love of travel and in an upcoming collection inspiration from historical architecture also heavily influences his In 2008, YAEL Designs won the distinguished AGTA Spectrum designs, including his native country of Iran. Awards™ for Manufacturing Honors for their 18K rose gold ring Each collection is designed to celebrate life and the bounty featuring a 12mm black Tahitian cultured Pearl accented with of beauty that this world has to offer. “This is what inspires us. Diamonds (.51 ctw.). This is what ignites our passion. This is what drives us to deliver “After we entered the first Spectrum Awards, AGTA had the unforgettable pieces that exude intrigue and extraordinary quality.” biggest impact on our business. For a young designer, AGTA did a YAEL Designs guarantees the very best in quality craftsmanship tremendous job helping us grow and we enjoy working with AGTA through the level of care that goes into every piece that is produced. to this day.” Most designs are set in platinum and white or rose gold. When YAEL Designs first entered, it was clear that given the Saketkhou prefers working with beautiful, bold gemstones like high quality of entrants and judges in this prestigious competition, tanzanite, turquoise, tourmaline, black opal, fire opal, emeralds, winning an award would put their brand on the map. According natural colored diamonds and sapphires. to Saketkhou, “The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ inspire us to create His advice for entering the upcoming AGTA Spectrum Awards™ unique pieces of jewelry and we often turn the winning designs into a competition; “Forget what the ‘trend’ is and don’t look at anyone seed for a whole collection.” Having now won the AGTA Spectrum else. Just do what inspires you and follow your own path.” Awards™ for four years in a row, the designer cannot be happier with the publicity and brand recognition that has resulted. For further information about Yehouda Saketkhou and his designs, visit him at www.yaldesigns.com and at the upcoming 2012 The design process for this artist begins in the picturesque city AGTA GemFair™ Tucson.p Calla Lilly earrings in 18K white gold with 5.54 cts. of tanzanite and 2.01 ctw. of diamonds. Magic Mushroom ring in 18K white gold with 1.05 ctw. of black diamonds, 0.81 ctw. of white diamonds and 0.70 cts. of rubies. AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 14 m e d i a e X p o s u r e F o r c o l o r O ne of the primary missions of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) is the promotion of colored gemstones and cultured pearls. AGTA’s ongoing efforts showcasing colored gemstone and pearl jewelry has been paying dividends with continued support from stylists and the media. “We are building momentum for color through AGTA programs specifically created to produce media exposure,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. “The coverage as a result of our American Gem Trade Association Collection™ at Red Carpet events and other media events really helps keep colored gemstone and pearl jewelry highly visible in the trade and to the consumer.” Colored gemstone and pearl jewelry showcased in the AGTA Red Carpet Collection is seen by celebrities, stylists and the media. The purpose of the Collection is to introduce trend-setters to the universe of color and jewelry design America’s Got Talent judge Sharon Osbourne wearing a black diamond ring by JR Dunn Jewelers. being done by AGTA Members. Not only is the jewelry borrowed and worn on the Red Carpet, but AGTA develops relationships with editors, stylists and production companies that result in placement opportunities for Members throughout the year. Currently AGTA Members’ jewelry is being worn weekly by Sharon Osbourne and Nick Cannon on America’s Got Talent, the number one show on television with 10– 15 million viewers each week. Emeralds, fancy-colored diamonds and sapphires have all been showcased in the jewelry worn. Jewelry and watches from AGTA Members Dena Kemp, Kazanjian Brothers, Alan Friedman, Le Vian, Sethi Couture, JR Dunn Jewelers, Omi Gems, Yael Designs and Jack Abraham have all been featured this season. “Becoming an AGTA Member was really important to me to support their work in the industry,” said designer Dena Kemp. “But being a Member has also provided me with great opportunities to showcase my jewelry designs on television programs like America’s Got Talent and on the Red Carpet – the exposure has been priceless.” One of this summer’s top movies, Crazy, Stupid, Love features jewelry from AGTA Member Kimarie Burnette of Kimarie Designs, also a result of AGTA’s outreach efforts. The jewelry is worn by the film’s stars, Julianne Moore and 15 A G T A P R I S M | S U M M E R 2 0 1 1 “We are building momentum for color through AGTA programs specifically created to produce media exposure.” —Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO r Emma Stone, as well as other cast members. “Adam Graham from AGTA called me and said that a movie featuring Julianne Moore and Steve Carell needed delicate, layered gold jewelry, which is what I do,” says Kimarie Burnette. “So I jumped on a plane right away and flew down to meet with the stylist at Warner Brothers. She selected over forty of my pieces to be used while shooting the movie.” It took about three months to shoot the film, but the jewelry was called back to the studio several times for re-takes. Warner Brothers ended up using 16 pieces of jewelry from Kimarie Designs in the movie’s final cut. Crazy, Stupid, Love was released July 29th, 2011, a little over a year from the time production started. “It was a great experience and I am happy it turned out to be such a good movie, too! I think my advice to others would be to just be ready to take advantage of the opportunities that come your way on a moment’s notice.” says Burnette. Baroque strand of pearls by Elyria Pearls, shown at the JIC Event. AGTA also works with the print and online media, both trade and consumer, to deliver gemstones, jewelry and information when needed. Recently, AGTA arranged a variety of loose gemstones for a photo shoot by Conde Nast Traveler for their October issue. Members Robert Bentley, AF Greenwood, Atlantic Gem Corp., Richard Krementz Gemstones and Eternity Natural Emerald all participated in the effort. The AGTA Collection™ was also represented at the recent JIC Annual Jewelry Preview in New York City, where editors from all the major consumer and trade publications gathered to see the latest in jewelry design. Colored gemstone and pearl jewelry designs from a dozen AGTA Members, with price points ranging from $500 to $325,000, were on display for the press to view. “The amount of coverage that we are getting in television, movies, online and in print for colored gemstones and pearls is really unprecedented,” says Hucker. “Consumers today are really swayed by what they see celebrities wearing and what is featured in fashion articles and blogs. We definitely feel like we are getting color and pearls this kind of exposure and are becoming a key resource for stylists and editors when sourcing great jewelry.” If you would like to participate in the AGTA Collection™ at upcoming events, including the Primetime Emmy® Awards, Golden Globes or Academy Awards®, please contact Adam Graham at adam@agta.org.p Kazanjian Brothers emerald and diamond earrings worn by Sharon Osbourne from America’s Got Talent. AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 16 From Rock Hound Rock Star—Augus b y f r a n m i l s o p t o t V o s s allowed him to work with their equipment and some of their materials like fire opal, quartz, garnet and agate. After a year of working in their shop, he was re-hooked and committed. Voss started carving with a dental lab hand piece, some old second-hand tools and a diamond trim saw. He even managed to fabricate some other tools he needed on his own. “I guess you could say I was the typical ‘starving artist’ at that point,” states Voss. “In fact, if it hadn’t been for my mom and dad, I probably would have starved. But they understood that my passion to carve and my desire to learn everything I could was what A drove me.” ugust Voss, recent recipient of an AGTA Spectrum Award™ Every day, from 2000 until visiting the 2011 presented this year by the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) at Tucson GemFair™, Voss spent at least two the 2011 Tucson GemFair™, came upon gemstones and carving under to four hours (sometimes more) working on unusual circumstances: He discovered a box of rocks in the basement pieces. He was obsessed. When the kids of a house he rented and when he put a hammer to one of them, he was amazed by what he found. went to bed, he started working – sometimes until the sun came up. “Breakfast with them was a challenge some days, but we made it,” As he put it, “They all just looked like the state, if one had a mind to go hunting for says Voss. “I was very lucky that both of my rocks to me, until I cracked one open. them. I was hooked. kids understood what I was trying to do.” material and since I didn’t know what it Voss thought he could just ‘go out and mine’ Voss worked with what he had, learned was, I took it to an old gem guy I knew. He but once he investigated that, he learned that about the materials and what he could and told me the rock was an Idaho opal. Then, not only would this endeavor be a lifetime could not do with them, as well as the tools he asked me if I had just moved to the commitment, it would cost a lot of money he had on hand. He tried carving a variety area. I thought this was strange and told for the specialized equipment he would of materials and that was how he discovered him that I had been born and raised here. need, which he didn’t have at the time. He so much about the gem minerals that came let his curiosity go dormant for about seven his way. He is definitely self-taught and years partly because and he was a single dad discovered fairly quickly that there was a raising a son and a daughter. niche market out there for his precious and Inside was the most unbelievable sky blue “Well,” he said, “Why do you think they call Idaho the gem state?” semi-precious carved skulls. Voss occasionally carved skulls out of exotic hardwoods and soft stone, like alabaster and “I think it’s really hard to find a particular Instead, soap stone, but it wasn’t until 2000 that he study form that hasn’t been extensively he proceeded to tell me all about the opal, ended up meeting another person who had explored in gem or Chinese jade carving. garnet, opal, jasper and other gems that a grandfather who had been a miner in the With the skull art I was doing, I was able to were located in various areas throughout area. He became reengaged with people who compete and actually sell my work because He didn’t wait for my answer. 17 A G T A P R I S M | S U M M E R 2 0 1 1 nobody else was really filling that gap. stated Voss. “The whole experience Plus, it kept the lights on and the was so powerful, and the energy was so grinder wheels turning,” he quips. high. I don’t think anything I had seen before compared to the level of art and creativity I saw at the AGTA event.” “When people ask me if I can identify a turning point in my career, I always say it was when I joined the Gem Stone Artists of Voss’ attitude about his art and carving was North America (GANA) in 2008. I met some permanently altered – in a good way – by this incredibly interesting, open and talented event and his commitment is even greater people through that organization. One of now. A lot of doors have been opened for them was located in Chicago and I ended up The AGTA Spectrum is him as a result of this event and it helped communicating with her about techniques the premiere jewelry design and gemstone him solidify his belief that he is capable of and research. Over time, she offered me cutting competition in the world. It is the doing professional work – due to the many the opportunity to spend time at her studio benchmark for designers and cutters to use to affirmations and comments people made assisting with putting a piece together that measure themselves against the best. Each about his piece in Tucson. would ultimately be submitted to the AGTA year, an exclusive panel of industry experts has to eat peanut butter for a year, he knows Spectrum Awards™, but I didn’t think I was judge upwards of 500 entries. The results are he can do this, and that it’s just a matter of ready to submit my own work.” announced at a major media event in New time before there is a bigger demand for York City, where editors from publications his work. Awards™ So, even if he In 2010, however, the offer came up again, like Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and and Voss went to Chicago and worked with Vanity Fair come to see the latest creations “I’ve already gotten feedback from the his mentor. He not only learned about how from the top designers in the world. outside world as a result of this event – and these comments have been on my older different artists work, but how they handle their career, their artisitic growth, and how “I had no expectation of placing in the pieces that are posted on Facebook. People their work evolved. This was an enlightening competition, I was just happy to have reached respond to my work. It seems to resonate experience for him. He returned to Idaho a point where I felt confident enough to be with them but this input was always difficult with a lot more information and confidence, able to enter my work. So, it was a huge to come by – especially from professionals - as well as a commitment to make a piece that surprise when I got a call from AGTA saying because it is a hard field – no pun intended he felt would be worthy of submission to the that my piece had taken first place in the – to break into”, he says. “I think you can AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition. He Carving category,” recalls Voss. become a doctor or a lawyer easier than you can become a respected gem artist. It’s like was ready. Voss began to research the level of detail he would have to commit to be able to successfully compete with other submissions and then began to work on the quartz piece he ultimately submitted. As the deadline for “I was amazed and thrilled because it is one of the most prestigious awards in the world to receive.” being dropped on an island and being told to figure out how to survive and, at the same time, be creative!” Who knows, maybe the saying, ‘the sky’s the limit,’ applies. At least now, because of the exposure and the chance to meet so many submissions for the competition approached, he had less than an hour to get his piece into “The winning of that prize not only allowed people, Voss’ resources, and ability to have a FedEx box and labeled for New York. me ‘an all access pass’ to all of the vendor conversations about his art, have increased The only reason he made the deadline was events and lectures at the AGTA GemFair™ tremendously and, for that, he is grateful. because of an acquaintance of a friend, who in Tucson, it also allowed me to meet some of It’s totally up to him how much farther he told me they would hand-deliver the box to the best and most amazing gem professionals climbs in this very exclusive world of top the AGTA office. in the world. I was – literally – in heaven,” gem carvers.p AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 18 Shoot for the Stars The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ is considered the most Cutting Edge Categories include: respected and prestigious design competition for the • Classic Gemstones jewelry industry. AGTA Spectrum Awards™ honors, recog- • Other Faceted Gemstones nizes and promotes designers whose work utilizes natural • Pairs & Suites colored gemstones and cultured pearls in finished fine jewelry • Phenomenal Gemstones design. The Cutting Edge Awards honors creativity in lapi- • Innovative Faceting dary arts, including faceted gemstones, carvings and objects • Carving of art. Both set the benchmark for workmanship, creativity • Objects of Art and innovation. AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Categories: • Bridal Wear • Business/Day Wear • Classical • Evening Wear • Men’s Wear • Fashion Forward Honors • Manufacturing Honors Platinum Honors™ and Entry Platinum Innovation sponsored by From the judges’ table to the Red Carpet, winners and entrants have been propelled into the spotlight. Our annual Editor’s Event in New York City brings in dozens of fashion and style editors from publications like Vogue, InStyle, Elle and Cosmopolitan. Spectrum winners and entrants receive priceless exposure in magazines, blogs, television and movies. Entries are due to the AGTA office in Dallas by Friday, September 23, 2011. New York Drop-Off entries are due Tuesday, October 4, 2011. If you plan to hand-deliver your piece on this date, all paperwork and payments are due to the Dallas office September 23. Entry forms can be found at www.agta.org/awards. NEW! Palladium Prestige™, sponsored by Model is wearing AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning opal ring by Samuel Getz Designs and tourmaline necklace by Cynthia Renée, Inc. 19 A G T A P R I S M | S U M M E R 2 0 1 1 AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 20 21 A G T A P R I S M | S U M M E R 2 0 1 1 p r o d u c t s i n s p a n i s h The American Gem Trade Association is now offering its GemCards and Guide to Colored Gemstones brochure in Spanish. “We’ve had many requests for Spanish materials from retailers, especially in stores in the southern states and Mexico,” Douglas Hucker, AGTA CEO, said. GemCards include images of specific gemstones on the front with several paragraphs of information on the back. The content is written with the consumer in mind, and discusses the key quality factors of each gemstone, along with history, lore and advice on proper care. There are 12 different GemCards available: amethyst, aquamarine, garnet, sapphire, emerald, ruby, opal/tourmaline, tanzanite/turquoise/ zircon, citrine/topaz, peridot, alexandrite/moonstone/pearl, and diamond. The Guide to Colored Gemstones showcases colored gemstones and cultured pearls with photographs and text, discussing purchasing guidelines to help the consumer make informed choices by building confidence in the buying decision. To find out about other AGTA products, log onto www.agta.org.p n e W M Firm Members e M b e r s Jewelers Workshop Jason Braden The Birds and the Beads Donna Raskin Samuel Designs, Inc. Samuel Behnam Keepsakes dba M. K. Winston Jewelers Matt Khatib The Goldmine Jewelers David Fishman William Henry Studio Dave Boeckel Kennedy’s Custom Jewelers Trisha Kennedy Crystal Gem Corp. Gregory Reaver Pam Huizenga Enterprises, Inc. Pamela Huizenga Evan Caplan Fine Gemstones Evan Caplan Ivey Gemstones Kenneth Ivey Jewels by Viomo, Inc. Moses Hajibai Prima Gems USA, LLC Jaimeen Shah Spectrum Source Corp. Isaac Aharonoff Associated Industry Professional Members Joy Aiken Jewelry Appraisals Joy Aiken Manufacturing Members btwisted, Inc. Dan Johnson Retailer Members Amy Ming Amy Ming Anne Dale Jeweller, LLC Anne Dale Cloverleaf Jewelers Christina Pippin Conti Jewelers Ellen R. Conti Craig’s Fine Jewelry Bill Craig Dream Weavers dba Cecil’s Fine Jewelry Rebecca Whelan Gem Art Center / Helen Serras-Herman Helen Serras-Herman Garrick Jewelers Rick Foye Nini Collection Worthington Hale Huck Jewelers Steven Huck Kim Wheeling & Co. Kim Wheeling The Santa Fe Design Co. Saritha Nagendran Trassare Jewelers Thomas Trassare Marshman Jewellers Karol Marshman Treasures Custom Jewelers & Diamond Brokers Scott Bohall Marthaler Jewelers Andy Marthaler Weber Goldsmith Gallery Bradley Weber Mikesell’s Fine Jewelry Cindy Mikesell William Carreras Diamonds, Ltd. dba Carreras, Ltd. William Carreras Newton’s Jewelers, Inc. Kelly Newton Otto Jewelry & Service, Inc. Michael Rezac Peter Indorf Jewelers Peter Indorf Student Members Dwayn Hairston Kristin Edrington Nancy Zacco Joys Nikita Jackson Suzanne A. McCue The Anena Corporation Merritt N. Bears AGTA PRISM|SUMMER 2011 22 3030 LBJ Fwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234 You see it everywhere… television, magazines, movies, billboards… models, celebrities, royalty—they’re all wearing colored gemstones and pearls. The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) is here to help you turn this opportunity into successful, sustainable business. At the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, from January 31 to February 5, 2012, in the safe, secure comfort of the Tuscon Convention Center, your experience will range from a “focus-and-find” assignment to an adventurous treasure hunt. You’ll network with US- and Canada-based professionals who adhere to a strict ethical code that supports quality, value and selection — sources you can trust! Plus, the seminars and workshops will educate and inspire! Success comes in many colors. Discover them all at the AGTA GemFair Tucson.