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Ouro Preto [Itineraries – Inconfidência Mineira]
Various attractions in Ouro Preto are related to the Inconfidência Mineira.
Those with a special interest in the movement can organize an itinerary that
begins at the praça Tiradentes, the main square of the city, and the main
visitor arrival point. The Tiradentes monument stands in this square, marking
the place where his head was put on display, to the population of Vila Rica in
1792, as a form of exemplary punishment.
Tiradentes Monument
Upon arrving at the praça Tiradentes, the visitor's eye is attracted to the
imposing monument of Joaquim José da Silva Xavier, which is currently a
landmark on the Ouro Preto landscape.
With the Proclamation of the Republic, the First Mineiro Congress deliberated
the erection of a monument in honour of Tiradentes at the praça da
Independência as a substitute to the Saldanha Marinho Pillar.
On the 21st of April 1892, the monument's cornerstone was laid; the event
was the commemoration of the 100 year anniversary of the execution of
Joaquim José da Silva Xavier. Two years later, the monument was solemnly
inaugurated by Dr. Affonso Augusto Moreira Penna, President of the State of
Minas Gerais. From then, the square became known as Tiradentes.
Foto capa: Maria Lucia Dornas
1.
With a total height of 19 metres, the monument was made of granite
extracted from the Widow's Peak, in Rio de Janeiro. The Tiradentes
statue, with its 2.85 metres, was cast in Italy, and the 24 decorative pieces
were cast in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
The person responsible for the statue was the Italian artist Virglio Cestari.
Born in Ferrara, he earned a diploma in architecture and sculpture from
the “Régio Instituto de Bellas Artes”, in Florence. Throughout his career,
he received many awards in Milan, Florence and Rome.
In keeping up tradition, the statue was purposely placed backing the
Governor's Palace, this made it so that Tiradentes would face the former
Casa de Câmara e Cadeia (House of Chambers) and Jailhouse, the current
Museu da Inconfidência.
The monument contains the following inscriptions:
In the front: “To the martyr of national freedom” – Tiradentes and the
triangle with the phrase “Libertas quae será tamen”.
On the left side: “It was here that his head was ignomiously put on
display.”
On the right side: “7th of September 1822 – 15th of November 1889 – 7th
of April 1831 – 15th of July 1891”
Mandate drawn up by the First Congress of the State of Minas Gerais –
Law nº 3, dated the 25th of September 1891.”
At the back: “21st of April 1792 – 21st of April 1892”
Foto: Henry Yu
Location: praça Tiradentes
Fotos: Maria Lucia Dornas
Foto: Sérgio Freitas
The Museu da Inconfidência with its priceless collection and fundamental
documents of the movement is also located in the square. On the first floor
of the building, there is the Pantheon, which is the final resting place of
various conspirators.
Pretende, Doroteu, o nosso Chefe
Erguer uma Cadeia majestosa,
Que possa escurecer a velha fama
Da Torre de Babel, e mais dos grandes
Custosos edifícios, que fizeram,
Para sepulcros seus os Reis de Egito.
Um soberbo edifício levantado
Sobre ossos de inocentes, construído
Com lágrimas dos pobres, nunca serve
De glórias ao seu autor, mas sim de
opróbrio.
Desenha o nosso Chefe sobe a banca
Desta forte Cadeia o grande risco
À proporção do gênio, e não das forças
Da terra decadente, aonde habita.
Ao bando dos cativos se acrescentam
Muitos presos já livres, e outros homens
Da raça do País, e da Européia,
Que diz ao grande Chefe são vadios,
Que perturbam dos pobres o sossego.”
Cartas Chilenas
4.
Museu da Inconfidência
The Museu da Inconfidência is one of the most important history
museums in Brazil. It is installed in the former Vila Rica House of
Chambers and Jailhouse; the imposing building is the highlight of
the praça Tiradentes. A visit to the Museu da Inconfidência is
definitely a must in Ouro Preto.
In 1785, Luís da Cunha Menezes, governor of the Captaincy of Minas
Gerais, decided to build another Casa de Câmara e Cadeia for Vila
Rica, since the one at that time was in a terrible state of
conservation. A lottery was organized in order to ascertain
resources. The labour involved was made up of slaves and
unqualified persons who, in a rather arbitrary form, were forced to
work. In the book Cartas Chilenas, attributed to Tomaz Antônio
Gonzaga, this episode was harshly criticized.
The governor himself was the plan’s author. “The building reveals
the classic style that superposes persistent Baroque and Rococo
elements” (Dora Alcântara). Construction was concluded in 1863. On
the façade, figures placed in each of the four corners attract
attention. These figures represent the four cardinal virtues: justice,
temperance, strength and prudence.
Fotos: Maria Lucia Dornas
5.
By the Law Decree nº 144 from the 2nd of December 1938, the building was
donated to the Union by the State of Minas Gerais and by the Law Decree
nº 965 from the 20th of December of the same year, the Museu da
Inconfidência was founded, with the recently-formed Historic and Artistic
Heritage responsible for its organization and direction. The finality of the
museum’s founding, in accordance with the Law Decree, was “to collect
things of various natures, related to the historic facts of the Inconfidência
Mineira and its protagonists, along with works of art and pieces of historic
value which constitute documents expressive of the formation of Minas
Gerias”.
Foto: Maria Lucia Dornas
Foto: Robson Oliveira
Work to restore and adapt the building began in 1940. On the 21st of
April 1942, the Pantheon was inaugurated, creating the launch point
for the museum’s organization. The mortal remains of the
conspirators who had been exiled to Africa were transferred to the
Pantheon. The remains had been repatriated in December of 1936, by
order of President Getúlio Vargas. In that year, the 150th anniversary
of the conviction of the conspirators was commemorated.
The museum was officially opened on the 11th of August 1944,
commemorative date of the bicentenary of the Tomas Antônio
Gonzaga’s birth.
Location: praça Tiradentes
After visiting the Museu da Inconfidência, continue on to the Teatro
Municipal which is just one block away.
Teatro Municipal de Ouro Preto
Ouro Pretro Municipal Theatre
The Teatro Municipal, known in the 18th and 19th Centuries as the Opera
House, is considered by many to be the oldest in South America. It is the
oldest functioning theatre in Brazil, to be sure. It also possesses a
differential in that it was the first theatre where women, stepped on
stage in Brazil. It is one of the most charming attractions of Ouro Preto.
7.
It was in this theatre that Dr. Tomas Antônio Gonzaga recited his
verses, much like Dr. Cláudio Manoel da Costa. “[…] Cláudio believed
himself to be linked to the local history of the theatre, be it as an
author or translator, be it as one of those who provided incentive to
the Casa da Ópera (Opera House), in Souza Lisboa’s time” (Afonso
Ávila).
The audience section of the theatre is in the shape of a lyre, and its
box seats are divided in two levels. In the centre, the principal box
seat was reserved for the governor. Reforms began in 1861, when the
wooden balconies of the box seats were replaced with iron.
Modifications on the ceiling and the wooden floor were also carried
out. In 1985, the theatre was restored. During these modifications,
paintings which represented drama and comedy were discovered
above the curtain. The theatre has a capacity of 300 people.
Address: rua Brigadeiro Musqueira
After being in the ambiance of the sober elegance of the former
Casa da Ópera, one can return to praça Tiradentes and go down on
the left along the rua Conde de Bobadela, in the direction of the
Casa dos Contos. On the way, you will pass in front of the house of
one of the participants in the Inconfidência Mineira.
Rua Direita
Casa do tenente-coronel Francisco de Paula Freire de Andrade
House of Lieutenant-Colonel Francisco de Paula Freire de Andrade
An elegant multi-story house located at nº 55, rua Conde da Bobadela.
At the end of the rua Conde de Bobadela, you arrive at the praça
Reinaldo Alves Brito; on the other side is the magnificent residence of
João Rodrigues de Macedo, which served as a prison for various
participants of the Inconfidência Mineira.
Casa dos Contos
The lofty and imposing Casa dos Contos presents itself among the Ouro
Preto landscape as the most beautiful example of civil colonial
architecture of the 18th Century, leaving many a wonderful impression
on its visitors. Its tracing was made by the mester Antônio de Souza
Calheiros.
It was the residence of the powerful contractor João Rodrigues de
Macedo, who had acquired from the Portuguese Court the right to
charge various taxes. The house had two functions: the contractor’s
residence and his workplace. Between 1784 and 1789 João Macedo
resided there, carrying out his financial activities. The house was
frequented by the Vila Rica elite, which gathered at the residence for
card games and social encounters. Included in this group was Inácio de
Alvarenga Peixoto with whom João Macedo was good friends.
However, after the opening of the Vila Rica Investigation to hone in on the
denouncements made by Silvério dos Reis, the house sheltered the
viceroy’s troops that had been sent to Minas. It also served as a prison for
the conspirators until the 18th of November 1789, when they were all
transferred to Rio de Janeiro: Luís Vieira da Silva, Dr. José Álvares Macial,
Priest Rolim and Dr. Cláudio Manoel da Costa, who passed away in the
house, after a few days in prison, under strange circumstances.
Address: rua São José, nº 12
Leaving the Casa dos Contos, follow rua São José, the principal commercial
thoroughfare in the city, to see the place where Tiradentes’ house existed.
Casa de Tiradentes
Tiradentes’ House
Second Lieutenant Joaquim da Silva Xavier resided in a rented property,
which belonged to Father Joaquim Pereira de Magalhães. According to
the sentence, the house was demolished, and the land became somewhat
infamous. In October of 1792, the father received 410$000rs in damages.
The site functions currently as the Ouro Preto Commercial Association.
Address: rua São José, nº 132
Going back to praça Tiradentes, enter rua Cláudio Manoel where the
former residence of Tomas Gonzaga is located.
Casa de Tomas Antônio Gonzaga
Tomas Antônio Gonzaga’s House
This large and beautiful house which was once home of the conspirator Dr.
Tomas Antônio Gonzaga is nowadays the Secretary of Tourism, Industry and
Commerce. For those interested in visiting an 18th Century house, this
former residence is a great opportunity, since it is possible to visit it during
the working hours of the Secretary.
These houses are surprising, since the width proportion of the façade,
always narrow, contrasts with deeper areas. This house even possesses a
so-called “hanging garden”. Its location is also very strategic. From the
balconies on the second floor, one has an excellent view of the famous
Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco de Assis (Church of the Third
Order of Saint Francis of Assisi) and of the Igreja de Santa Efigênia (Saint
Ephigenia Church). It is an excellent angle for taking photographs.
12.
Dr. Tomas Antônio Gonzaga lived in this house only for the period of time
that he held the position of judge. By the time he was arrested, Vila Rica
had already gotten another magistrate, who occupied the property which
was designated for judges. It is known that the conspirator continued to
live on the same street, but no one is sure as to which house. Dr. Tomas
had already been selected for the position of magistrate for the Captaincy
of Bahia.
Address: rua Cláudio Manoel, nº 61
Located in front of the house is the notable Igreja da Ordem Terceira de
São Francisco de Assis.
Igreja São Francisco de Assis
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Masterpiece of Brazilian colonial art, the Igreja São Francisco de Assis is a
must-visit in Ouro Preto. Here two of the great mineiro masters, Antônio
Francisco Lisboa and Manoel da Costa Ataíde left behind impeccable works
of art that truly deserved the verses of the epic poet Carlos Drummond de
Andrade.
Não entrarei, senhor, no templo,
seu frontispício me basta.
Vossas flores e querubins
são matéria de muito amar.
Dai-me, senhor, a só beleza
destes ornatos. E não a alma.
Pressente-se dor de homem
paralela à das cinco chagas.'
Carlos Drummond de Andrade
13.
The Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco de Assis housed the
elite of the Captaincy of Minas Gerais in the second half of the 18th
Century. Dr. Cláudio Manoel da Costa was a lawyer hired by the
Third Order and received, for that function, 60 eighths of gold per
year, according to reports of a meeting on the 24th of November
1771. Dr. Cláudio’s mother, Dona Thereza Ribeiro de Alvarenga
held the position of minister in the Order.
The beautiful pulpits made from soapstone by Antônio Francisco
Lisboa were inaugurated on the 5th of September 1771 with the
sermon of the conspirator Canon Luiz Vieira da Silva.
Address: praça Coimbra
Um quarteirão abaixo, encontra-se a casa de Cláudio Manoel da
Costa
Located one block below is the house of Cláudio Manoel da Costa.
Casa de Cláudio Manoel da Costa
Cláudio Manoel da Costa’s House
In a large corner mansion, in front of the Antônio Dias fountain, is the
residence of Dr. Cláudio Manoel da Costa, which was auctioned off and its
belongings taken by the lawyer Diogo Pereira de Vasconcelos. In the
Imperial Period it served as residence of the President of the Province,
Bernardo Pereira de Vasconcelos.
It was nominated a Heritage Site by the IPHAN on the 20th of April 1938.
Address: rua Bernardo Vasconcelos, nº 2
Follow Bernardo de rua Vasconcelos, pass the Igreja Matriz de Nossa
Senhora da Conceição (Church of Our Lady of the Conception) in order to
arrive at the Ponte de Antônio Dias (Antônio Dias Bridge).
Ponte de Antônio Dias
Antônio Dias Bridge
Work on this bridge was auctioned by Manoel Francisco Lisboa in 1755.
Later on, due to a sign over, the auction right was transferred to Antônio
da Silva Erdeiro.
It is popularly known as the Ponte dos Suspiros (Longing For Bridge) or
Ponte de Dirceu (Dirceu Bridge), due to the stories that are told about the
relationship of Tomas Antônio Gonzaga, known as Dirceu, and Maria
Joaquina Dorotéia de Seixas, known as Marília. Dirceu would sit by the
bridge, waiting for Marília to fetch water at the nearby fountain, always
accompanied by a maid, and so in the vain hope for love, he stayed there
“longing for” her.
15.
“The Ponte Antônio Dias is composed of two thick walls interrupted by
a two plain arches, with a circular patch of dirt in the middle and a
stone cross placed upon a complex pedestal. The low wall is made of
stone blocks. Water runs below just one of the two arches.” (IPHAN)
Address: largo de Dirceu, above the córrego da Sobreira.
Located very near the bridge is the Chafariz de Marília (Marília
Fountain).
Chafariz de Marília
Marília Fountain
This fountain is one of the most beautiful of Brazil and is also linked to
romantic stories, since its name is related to Maria Dorotéia Joaquina
de Seixas, the famous Marília of the lyres of Tomas Antônio Gonzaga,
which make up one of the classics of Brazilian literature – Marília de
Dirceu.
Manuel Francisco Lisboa, Aleijadinho’s father, was selected to
construct this fountain, for which a public contest was opened in the
Chamber of the Senate of Vila Rica. In 1759, its construction began
along with two co-constructors, Antônio Moreira Duarte and Miguel de
Oliveira. “Aleijadinho’s participation in the soapstone ornaments that
adorn is noticeable and recognized” (IPHAN). The decoration consists
of helixes, curved ornaments and four figureheads.
In the 1850’s, nearly all the fountains suffered reforms. The Chafariz de
Marília was, probably, in this group. In the 20th Century, work was also
carried out in 1928, 1936 and 1954. On the later dates the work was
under the supervision of the IPHAN.
The fountain is registered in the IPHAN’s Book of Visual Arts under the
name “Chafariz da Praça de Marília” (“Marília Square Fountain”).
Address: largo do Dirceu
16.
Located directly behind the fountain is Casa de Marília (Marília’s House).
Casa de Marília
Marília’s House
The former Ferrões manor house was destroyed and in its place a public
school was constructed.
Address: largo de Dirceu
Passing once again by the Ponte Antônio Dias, go onto the rua Dr.
Antônio Martins dos Santos and continue along the rua Antônio Martins
until getting to the praça da Barra.
Coluna Saldanha Marinho
During the Second Imperial Period, 1862, the President of the Province
of Minas Gerais, Councilman Saldanha Marinho, organized a popular
donation to collect money with the intention of erecting a monument in
honour of the conspirators. It was the first explicit honour to the group.
The Emperor at the time was the great-grandson of Dona Maria I, the
Queen who had condemned the conspiracy group.
“Brazil was a monarchy governed by the House of Bragança, whereas
the conspirators had preached of an American-like Republic. It wasn’t
easy to exalt the conspirators and Tiradentes in particular, without in
some way condemning their executioners and valid political system.”
(José Murilo de Carvalho)
The pillar was exhibited at the praça da Independência, nowadays praça
Tiradentes, until 1892, when the present monument was inaugurated in
honour of the centenary of Joaquim José da Silva Xavier’s death.
17.
The Coluna dos Inconfidentes (Conspirators’ Pillar), which became
known as the Coluna Saldanha Marinho (Saldanha Marinho Pillar), was
taken to Gonzaga’s House. For the 50th Anniversary of Belo Horizonte,
Professor Vicente Racioppi, president of the Ouro Preto Historic
Institute, sent the pillar to the capital for the celebrations. It remained
in the Belo Horizonte City Hall warehouse until 1980 when it was
returned to Ouro Preto.
Address: praça Amadeu Barbosa, popularly known as praça da Barra.
Tip!!!!
For complete information about the monuments and
services
check out the page of Ouro Preto on
descubraminas.com
Stay Tuned!!!!!
Few attractions open on Mondays. In the months of January and
July some churches open on Monday.
Wear comfortable shoes, these sites have many steep streets and
uneven pavements.
In almost all the attractions you need to save the bags and is not
allowed to photograph the interior.
Visitation rates are charged.
Always check the work hours of the attractions.

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