Alternator - Removal How-To PICS

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**Alternator - Removal How-To PICS ** - SVTPerformance
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05-07-2005, 12:12
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#1 (permalink)
AM
BLK_03
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**Alternator - Removal How-To PICS **
Insane SVT Poster
Ok, so my alternator just went south. I am at 37K , so Ford told my to stick it. Lower pulley has been on with stock alt.
pulley for about 6K. Upon my search for a good replacement alternator, I found many people asking how to remove the
alternator. So here it is... BTW, I'm replacing with a PA performance unit...
First remove the belt.
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I next placed the car on jackstands, to have good access to the bottom of the car.
Next, remove the 8mm, battery retaining bolt.
Lift and remove the battery, leaving you access to the tray. Remove the other 8mm bolts and remove the tray. This will
leave you with plenty of access to the top of the alt.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/182632-alternator-removal-how-pics.html 4/12/2009
Page 2 of 13
Now unbolt the 15mm alt. retaining bolt.
From the bottom locate the two wiring harnesses. One unclips, one unbolts after removing the protective rubber boot.
Page 3 of 13
Next you will have to create room for the alternator to move. This is accomplished by removing one bolt, and loosening one
bolt from the alternator bracket.
Page 4 of 13
Loosen the one on top: (this is tricky as there is not much room)
And remove the one on the bottom (don't lose the Metco spacer)
Page 5 of 13
Now the alt. can be set free. Using a long object and a hammer, tap the alternator DOWN, and toward the PASSENGER side
of the car.
Should look like this...
Page 6 of 13
Now from the bottom, wiggle/dance the alternator out of the car. I found the easiest way was to walk the alt. toward the oil
filter. I messed with it for a while and once I moved the alt. toward the back of the car, it came right out by the oil filter...
One last shot showing the new Metco compensating pulley, against the stock alt. pulley.
____________________________________
It was a Sprayton car, NOW:
-HPP Twin 61mm-Built Teksid by Boss 330 Racing
-945RWHP/836RWTQ @6K 14deg and 27psi MustangDyno
-Tuned by Lund Racing
Last edited by BLK_03; 05-07-2005 at 12:13 AM.
05-09-2005, 02:21 PM
Wings65288
SVT God
#2 (permalink)
nice pictures man, even better write-up
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Sport Springs (1 set of stock iso's up front and in back) - BF IRS Brace - and 275 MT DR's. 1/4: 11.90 @ 117.22
(Best 1/8: 7.63 @ 93.27)
SOLD - 2003 Metallic Silver Cobra: Pullied w/Built SRA
Vehicle: 2003 Cobra
1/4 Mile: 11.90@ 117.22
05-09-2005, 08:12 PM
SVT4ME
#3 (permalink)
Great write up! Thanks
SVT God
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05-09-2005, 10:58 PM
Wings65288
#4 (permalink)
may i ask what kind of camera you used and what pixel it is?
SVT God
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05-10-2005, 07:10 AM
traktrbeam
Rabid Photog
#5 (permalink)
Awesome! Added to my How to Do files
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Unknown:
your face annoys me for some reason o.o, its weird actually, the whole Gnome-ish facial structure + the G@Y little
strands of hair glued to ur forehead make me cringe...
05-10-2005, 09:53 AM
#6 (permalink)
BLK_03
Insane SVT Poster
Page 8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wings65288
may i ask what kind of camera you used and what pixel it is?
Kodak DX7590. 5.0 megapixel. I think it's a great camera for being off the shelf and non-SLR.
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05-10-2005, 01:41 PM
alanw6
The gauge pod guy
#7 (permalink)
Another great writeup Tony! Look me up at WFC 8 this weekend if you are going to be there.
Alan
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06-05-2005, 02:18 PM
LTHL VNM
Online Poker pays for it
#8 (permalink)
can you rehost the pics please, i'm gonna need to do this
thanks
-tony
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06-10-2005, 05:08 PM
#9 (permalink)
Yes .. I miss the cobra!
So what size altenator pulley did you go with and if you would have had one from the begining do you think that
would have saved your stock unit?
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thanks,
Crowley
____________________________________
08 BMW 135i
Crowley
06-10-2005, 05:57 PM
BLK_03
Insane SVT Poster
#10 (permalink)
It's a 3 3/8" pulley.
Would it have prevented the stock one from going bad? Who knows... They have been known to fail on stock cars.
The stock alternator from Ford has been problematic for years.
Page 9 of 13
If I knew what I know now, the alternator pulley would have been done at the same time I changed the lower crank
pulley. It's not fun to be stranded, or leave your car somewhere you don't feel comfortable leaving it.
* pics should be working now *
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Last edited by BLK_03; 06-10-2005 at 06:00 PM.
06-30-2005, 06:40 PM
#11 (permalink)
Cobra Nate
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Wings65288
nice pictures man, even better write-up
.
08-04-2005, 06:47 AM
CobraVertWV
Gotta have more
#12 (permalink)
Great writeup, thanks!
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08-10-2005, 05:40 PM
Slow04Cobra
#13 (permalink)
I'm doing this right now.......it's not as easy as he makes it look
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08-17-2005, 05:46 PM
badboy
Done with it!
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#14 (permalink)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow04Cobra
I'm doing this right now.......it's not as easy as he makes it look
I found it to be more of a PITA than installing the 6# lower kit. Couldn't get the stock pulley off.
Question: I'm replacing my 6# lower with a 2# (KB install). Do I need to go back to the stock alternator pulley or is
the 3.2 OK to leave on?
Last edited by badboy; 08-17-2005 at 05:49 PM.
08-26-2005, 09:06 AM
BADBOYSPACK
#15 (permalink)
now you understand why us Ford techs tend to make a few $$$, the designs of some of these cars is so f**cked up,
make things that will need to be changed more accessible
Ford Tech
Page 10 of 13
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09-09-2005, 02:35 PM
AllVenom
#16 (permalink)
Quote:
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Originally Posted by BADBOYSPACK
now you understand why us Ford techs tend to make a few $$$, the designs of some of these cars is so
f**cked up, make things that will need to be changed more accessible
Yep, you go and try to make a design that will both be practical and easy to do maintenance on. Go ahead, I
challenge you. This problem transcends every engineering marvel we have. If space was an endless commodity,
then you and I would have room to do just about anything. But, since the front of the car is what it is, it would be
impossible to design an engine where every component could be accessed easily. I used to be an electronics tech in
the marines and would say the same things about the equipment being a f'd up design. Its not easy from their point
either.
In any case, you make good money, so quit your whining!
____________________________________
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Fidanza DFX, Fidanza Flywheel
09-20-2005, 04:59 PM
WOMACK03
Whipple Powered
#17 (permalink)
I ordered a PA today. I have 26XXX miles and if I turn on the A/C my cars voltage takes a poop. The Alt. is only
making 13 volts max. I still have a warranty but I dont want to have to do this again, so 269.00 shipped for the PA
70/130 is worth it.
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06-18-2006, 01:29 PM
RookieVenom
#18 (permalink)
thx
New SVT Poster
thx dude. Hopefully i dont have any problems.
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10-08-2006, 03:52 PM
silvercoffin
#19 (permalink)
MINE WENT BAD...at 14,500
SVT God
Thanks for this write up.
MY QUESTIONS ARE:
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Page 11 of 13
How do you get the stock pulley off? and if you get an OEM replacement alternator does it come with the stock
pulley?
Mine just went bad last night leaving me stranded on the side of a highway at 1am. My girl friend wanted me to pick
her up from a Bridal Party in the Mustang instead of my VOlvo! So I actually took the stang out for a drive..usually
just race it.. Figures it would wait to go bad on the way home from Seaside Heights. AAA took about an hour to get
to us.
My girl friend was cool about it lol.... I reminded her that if I had taken the 89 Volvo with 260,000 miles on it we
would have made it home just fine!
I was thinking mine probably went bad because I just race the car and I run the pump for the intercooler a lot. I
figured the alternator is working extra hard because of that. I have 14, 500 miles on my car.
____________________________________
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11.40@121mph
2004 DSG F-150 FX4
10-08-2006, 06:28 PM
silvercoffin
#20 (permalink)
info
SVT God
ok i tried it and failed! lol well I was running low on day light and I couldnt get the electrical connecting off..
Its easy to get the alternator loose but I wasnt sure how to get the one electrical connector off. The one that clips
on. How does it come off?
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I didnt bother unbolting the other one maybe then it will be more obvious how its possible to get it out? There didnt
seem to be anyway to get it out even ocne those connections were removed. The side of the car, the sway bar? and
some sort of bracket was in the way. Im hoping that once the electrical connections are removed there will be more
freedom of movement.
How do you unclip the other connector?
Im hoping I can still do this myself. Its really ffed up how ford designed this. Im not paying someone hundreds of
dollars in labor to do something that should be so simple
Last edited by silvercoffin; 10-08-2006 at 06:34 PM.
10-08-2006, 06:29 PM
427Windsorman
2007 F150 Lariat SCrew
#21 (permalink)
Mine died at 47K miles yesterday. I really appreciate this write up since I will be doing this replacement as soon as I
can procure a new alternator
____________________________________
Doug
2003 Oxford White Cobra #283 of 8394, DOB 5/31/02 -SOLD
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10-08-2006, 11:16 PM
silvercoffin
#22 (permalink)
ok
SVT God
OK I got the two wires off..just had to be more patient.
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YOU REALLY DIDNT TAKE ANYTHING OFF TO GET THE ALTERNATOR OUT? I JUST CANT SEE HOW IT COULD
POSSIBLY COME OUT. THE SWAY BAR, RADIATOR HOSE, OIL FILTER AND A HOLE ASSORTMENT OF OTHER HOSES
AND PIPES ARE IN THE WAY.
I'm gonna try again tomorrow.
Page 12 of 13
10-15-2006, 04:01 PM
#23 (permalink)
If this is too late to help you sorry, just saw this. It will honestly come out without removing any bars or anything. It
comes out RIGHT next to the oil filter, ie barely touching it. The only thing I can think of to make it easier is to
remove the lower moter mounts and jack the engine up a little to make more room between it and the fender. If you
could, could you measure the length if the bolt that connects to the bottom of the alternator? I have two bolts and
they both fit in the two holes i have left. Thanks
Adam
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10-15-2006, 05:47 PM
#24 (permalink)
infoq
silvercoffin
SVT God
sorry I never posted this here. THESE DIRECTIONS ARE RIGHT ON THE MONEY! THANKS!
I was missing the part about loosenign the bracket that holds the alternator. Once I loosened that it came out pretty
easily. Its probably a 30-45 min job now that i know how to do it. It only takes that long because it is a bitch to get
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to the bolts. TOO MUCH SHIT in our engine bays...NOW I NEED A FREAKIN NEW CLUTCH FFFF
10-17-2006, 01:47 PM
#25 (permalink)
I took mine out through the top. Only had to take the battery and upper alternator bracket out! It was a tight fit but
worked fine!
svtguy22
SVT God
Good luck!
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Alternator - Removal How-To PICS

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