summer 2012 • vol. xlv no. 4
Transcription
summer 2012 • vol. xlv no. 4
SUMMER 2012 • VOL. XLV NO. 4 Oceania Cruises Notes from the Editor: Ed Kirk Editor Features 1 Oceania Cruises: The Golden Age of Cruising is Alive Aboard the Marina 5 Star Clippers: The Pacific Coasts of Costa Rica, Panama & Nicaragua Aboard the Star Flyer 7 Travel Dynamics International: Cruising the Great Lakes By Small Ship 12 Antarctica: Traveling the Safe and Environmentally Responsible Way Special Departments 1 Notes from the Editor 13 Freighter Listing 15 TravLtips Cruise Calendar & Small Ship Listing The Golden Age of Cruising is Alive Mayan Mystique Aboard the Marina Story and photos by Philip Shart PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANIA CRUISES. Most travelers prefer to pay for their cruise arrangements with a credit card, and we recommend that you do so whenever possible; it offers a measure of protection for your travel investment and is easier for us, or any travel agent, to process and administer with Ed Kirk the cruise lines. Certain specialty cruise products, most notably freighters, do not offer the option of credit card payments. And on a few that do, there may be an extra cost to be considered. Many credit card companies now impose a “foreign transaction fee” on any charge that is processed offshore—even if the transaction is in U.S. dollars and involves no currency conversion. To date, the fee is occurring on bank-issued credit cards (Visa and MasterCard) and is usually equal to about three percent of the transaction amount. The banks’ explanation is the fee is imposed because the purchase is considered to take place outside the U.S. So far, we have not heard of American Express charging a fee if the transaction was processed in U.S. funds, even if overseas. TravLtips is aware of the fee occurring on transactions initiated by foreign-based cruise operators such as Hurtigruten, promoters of the popular Norwegian Coastal Voyage; Paul Gauguin Cruises, operator of deluxe small cruise ships in the South Pacific and Caribbean; and Viking River Cruises, who maintains a large fleet of river cruise vessels in several markets. All three currently process credit card charges offshore that may be subject to a foreign transaction fee. The cruise lines all state in their “fine print” that this fee is not charged by them, that they receive no benefit from it and accept no responsibility for it (i.e. they are not reimbursing passengers for the fee). We urge passengers to check with their credit card company (even American Express) to find out if they charge fees on U.S. dollar transactions processed outside of the United States before authorizing your cruise payment. There is some evidence that the fee may be somewhat arbitrary and even negotiable with the cardholder and their bank—but you should establish that before your payment is processed. Your TravLtips cruise consultant will alert you if we hear of any other operators utilizing offshore processing. I The 65,000-ton Marina and Riviera (pictured) are the two newly built ships of Oceania Cruises. Each accommodates up to 1,250 guests and offers a sophisticated, convivial and uncrowded cruise experience. t all started when I received an offer that you couldn’t refuse. It was from TravLtips: A ten-day cruise on the Marina through the Western Caribbean with discounted rates on cabins, all gratuities paid, $50 on-board credit, and free airfare (which I wouldn’t need). I booked the February 26, 2012 sailing, inside cabin. I always go for the lowest fares as I make several trips a year and resent the single supplement. I have been on 90 ships but still get the adrenaline rush when I arrive at the pier and see the ship. It has been a long time since I’ve been overwhelmed by a ship but the Marina sure did it. Oceania Cruises was founded in 2002 when they purchased two of the Renaissance cruise ships from the bankrupt company. In 2005 they purchased the third ship. In 2007, prompted by their success, they obtained an 850 million dollar capital investment loan from Apollo Management group, which also includes Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Instead of purchasing existing ships, the company announced that it would build two ships, each about 65,000 tons, designed to carry about 1,250 passengers and which would set the standard for upper premium cruising for many years. Both ships would be built at Fincantieri’s Sestri Ponente Shipyard in Genoa, Italy. The Marina was delivered in 2011. The sister ship, Riviera was to be delivered in early 2012. The Marina is registered in the Marshall Islands. The maximum speed is 20 knots, gross tonnage is 66,084, accommodations are for up to 1,250 passengers and an international crew of 800 is aboard. The ship’s length is 785 feet, the beam is 106 feet and the draft is 24 feet. There are ten passenger decks. The number of suites and cabins (both inside and out) is a total of 625. There are three shops featuring clothing, jewelry, cosmetics, a spa, casino, and library. Dress on board is country club casual with no formal nights. There is no charge for water or soda. No smoking is allowed in the public areas, only in designated outdoor areas. The ship is geared for grown-ups and there is no program or facilities set aside for children. There are ten places to eat, each a gourmet delight. These places have open sitting and it is suggested that reservations be made. There is no extra charge for most of them. The only two that charge are La Reserve, with a cost of $95.00 per person plus an l8% tip for a seven-course meal paired with wines (well worth it), and The Privee, which can host a private party of up to ten Cover Photo: The mid-size Marina debuted in January 2011. TravLtips is the official publication of the TravLtips Cruise & Freighter Travel Association (a subsidiary of TravLtips, Inc.) combining features on small ships, freighters, traditional cruises and unusual cruises, TravLtips Freighter Listing, and TravLtips Cruise Calendar. Copyright © 2012 by TravLtips, Inc. TravLtips (ISSN 0162-9816) is published quarterly by TravLtips, Inc., 25-37 Francis Lewis Blvd., Flushing, New York, 11358. Periodicals Postage paid at P.O. Flushing, New York and at additional mailing offices. Printed in the U.S.A. Postmaster: Send address change to TravLtips Circulation Department, P.O. Box 580218, Flushing, New York, 11358-0218. Subscription rate: $40 per year in U.S. Funds includes membership in TravLtips Cruise & Freighter Travel Association. Add $5.00 per year for Canada and Mexico. Write us for rates to other countries. Change of Address must be made six weeks in advance. Send both old and new address. Publication and Executive Offices: P.O. Box 580188, 25-37 Francis Lewis Blvd., privileged passengers for just $250.00. The no-charge restaurants include the Grand Dining Room (Deck 6) offering courses of European Continental cuisine and Canyon Ranch Spa selections. The Toscana, on Deck 14, offers wonderful Tuscan cuisine. (A word of advice: when you dine there, have a light breakfast and skip lunch.) The Polo Grill on deck 14 has all the elements of a steakhouse; it offers fish and beef dishes, which all are USDA Prime and dry aged for 28 days to insure tenderness. Jacques on Deck 5 contains art from Chef Jacques Pepin’s private collection; it is pure French cuisine. On Deck 5 there is a Red Ginger offering all the Asian classics. The Terrace Café is a two-buffet delight for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; they have an extensive menu and you can dine indoors or outside at one of the teak tables. Located in a shaded area near the pool is Waves Grill, which offers five kinds of hamburgers (one is made with Kobe beef ), three kinds of hot dogs, wonderful seafood and healthy salads. (Make sure you try their homemade ice cream and milk shakes.) At four o’clock there is an elegant tea served in the Horizons on Deck 14. There are several bars located through out the ship. I was wondering how they would handle the Captain’s Reception with people eating at different times. The night of the Reception it was open bar at all the bars from 6:30 to 9:00 p.m. Daytime activities included lectures, bingo, culinary lessons (A La Carte classes $69 per person), arts and crafts, miniature golf, jogging, and photo and camera sessions. There was a computer room so you could stay in touch on the Internet. There was always the pool and two hot tubs. With ample deck chairs and free Balinese Day Beds there was always room at the pool. Each night you received a copy of the next day’s program, a piece of chocolate and a summary of the world news. In case you forgot what was going on there was always the nine o’clock morning announcements, and the noon announcements after the captain’s daily report of weather and location and the course to be followed during the next 24 hours. At six o’clock in the evening there was a recap of the evenings events. Of course you could always stop by the reception desk on Deck 5 and get another copy of the daily program. In the evening there was a trio that played semi-classical music in the Long Bar, a wonderful pianist at the Marina Bar, late night Continued on page 2 PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANIA CRUISES Flushing, New York, 11358-0188. Telephone: 718-224-0435. Publisher: TravLtips, Inc.; Editor: Edmund M. Kirk.; Design: Leith Chamberlain. Circulation Department: 25-37 Francis Lewis Blvd., P.O. Box 580218, Flushing, New York, 11358-0218. Manager: Pat McGowan. Ass’t Manager: Agnes Sullivan. Cruise Reservations: 25-37 Francis Lewis Blvd., P.O. Box 580188, Flushing, NY 11358-0188. Telephone from US and Canada: 800-872-8584. Fax: 718-224-3247. Specialty Cruise Consultants: Patricia Buchholz, Michael Muldowney (lead consultant), Krista Raccuglia. Traditional Cruise Consultants: Nicole Barsa, Diana Peek (lead consultant). Manager: Brian McLaughlin CST#2022354-40. Editorial & Circulation Dept. E-mail address: info@travltips.com Cruise Reservations E-mail address: cruises@travltips.com Web Site: http://www.travltips.com TravLtips 1 Clockwise from Above: Philip Shart opted for an airboat excursion of Almond Hill Lagoon and Indian Creek while in Belize. “We were given ear covers to protect our hearing when the motor was on. The airboat travels at 40 mph. We saw pristine mangroves, water lilies, turtles, and a variety of birds.” The Discover Mexico Park in Cozumel has tropical gardens with scale model replicas of the country’s most popular attractions from important Mayan temples to historical Mexico City. One of the many Mayan stelae protected at Quirigua Archaeological National Park, located about a oneand-a-half-hour ride from the port of Santo Tomas, Guatemala. Iguana Hideaway on Roatan is a sanctuary where you can see the prehistoric-looking reptiles up close. “The walkways were covered with them. We were warned not to step on their tails as they could turn quickly and take a nip at your ankles. dancing in the Horizons or some nights under the stars on the pool deck. They had outdoor movies with popcorn and of course professional entertainment. On my cruise we had a singer from West End London, a comedian, guitarist, a magician, and three productions by the singers and dancers of the ship. These were good but without the glitz of Vegas shows. And don’t forget there was always the casino. The shore excursion office was on Deck 5 and they offered to help you decide what to do. My cruise was “The Mayan Mystique” and many visits to Mayan ruins were offered. However these excursions were not for people with wheelchairs or those who had difficulty walking. I had taken this cruise route before, actually three other times, and booked the Marina for a quick getaway and because I wanted to try this ship and this company. During the summer of 2011, I was on the Prinsendam at Copenhagen and the Marina was tied up ahead of us. I asked passengers what they thought of the ship and all had rave reviews. The ship looked so large and I was surprised that she carried only 1,250 passengers. With all the open space I found during my cruise there were times when you thought it was empty. Origins & Empires Enrichment Voyage Central, South America and Panama Canal aboard the MV Explorer Holiday Sailing • December 8, 2012 – January 2, 2013 for 25 days D eveloped by the cruises experts and study-abroad team at the Institute for Shipboard Education, this “Enrichment Voyage” combines cruise ship amenities with a unique perspective of different parts of the world. You’ll sail with leading academics, scientists, authors and artists who will share their knowledge, insights and expertise with you. When a passenger boards an Enrichment Voyage, they enjoy a modern cruise experience on MV Explorer—a 25,000-ton, 800-passenger contemporary vessel with open seating dining, a full-service spa and fitness center, pool and sun deck—combined with supplemental enrichment sessions and optional field programs not found on other cruise ships. Guests will also have access to the resources of a floating university including a 9,000-volume library, a 20-station computer lab and Wi-Fi Internet access. ITINERARY: You will embark and sail from Nassau to Montego Bay, Cartagena, Colon, transit Panama Canal, Guayaquil, Callao, Manta, Puntarenas, Corinto, Puerto Quetzal, Cabo San Lucas and San Diego where you will disembark. As you travel to both familiar and off-the-beaten-path destinations, you have a variety of optional shore excursions to choose from including multi-day overland tours to Macchu Picchu or the Galapagos Islands. Rates from only $2,199! TravLtips guests receive up to $200 ship credit! Above rate quoted in US$ per person double occupancy for an inside stateroom. Single occupancy is 150%. Government taxes $280 additional. Rates subject to change and availability. 2 Summer 2012 TravLtips P.O. Box 580188 • Flushing, NY 11358 800-872-8584 e-mail: cruises@travltips.com Cruise Summary Feb. 26, 2012. The cruise embarkation in Miami was easy and fast. My cabin, number 8092, was an inside with a queen-size bed, a flatscreen television, a refrigerator, mini-bar, vanity desk, two chairs, breakfast table, and a marble and granite bathroom with shower. There was ample closet space but drawer space might be a problem for two people as some of the drawers are triangle shaped. There was the mandatory boat drill and a singles cocktail get together right after sailing. (A singles dinner was held later in the voyage.) Feb. 27. The ship arrived at Key West at nine in the morning. Key West is the southernmost point of the continental U.S. located about 160 miles south of Miami. The early inhabitants were the Tequesta and Calusa people. The first European to visit was Ponce de Leon in 1521. On March 25, 1822 Mathew C. Perry sailed the Shark into Key West and claimed it for the U.S. It remained isolated until 1912 when it was connected to mainland Florida by the Over-Sea Railway. Much of the railway was destroyed by the disastrous Labor Day Hurricane of 1938. The Overseas Highway later followed the route of the railway. The “old town” comprises the major tourist attractions such as Mallory Square and Duval Street, which is an eclectic array of shops, restaurants and bars. There’s also Fort Zachary Taylor, Hemingway’s House, Truman’s Winter White House, the building that housed the office of the first Pan American Airways office for flights to Cuba, the old railway station, the former Customs House, and Audubon’s House. The ship docked at Navy Mole Pier and a free shuttle service was offered to the historical district. The ship offered a total of eight tours. The range was a walking tour, to a glass-bottom boat, to the more strenuous catamaran with snorkeling. Depending on the tour, the prices ranged from $65 to $150. As I live in Florida and have been to Key West many times, I took the shuttle bus in and walked around and PHOTOS COURTESY OF OCEANIA CRUISES Clockwise from Left: “With ample deck chairs and free Balinese Day Beds there was always room at the pool.” Mr. Shart opted for an inside stateroom with queen-size bed, a flatscreen television, a refrigerator, mini-bar, vanity desk, two chairs, breakfast table, and a marble and granite bathroom with shower. Many guests choose a deluxe oceanview stateroom with floor-toceiling panoramic windows or one of the very spacious veranda staterooms (shown below). Many premium restaurant venues are available on the Marina and Riviera at no additional charge. Jacques, with art from Chef Jacques Pepin’s private collection, resembles a classic Parisian bistro. The comfortable Horizons lounge located on Deck 15 for picturesque views. had a lunch of conch salad and, of course, key lime pie for dessert. On the trip back to the ship we had to show proof of citizenship to enter the naval dock area. We sailed at four that afternoon. Feb. 28. A restful day at sea. A time to enjoy the facilities of the Marina, which according to readers of Cruise News Magazine, was just voted the Ship of the Year. Feb. 29. Costa Maya, Mexico. Ten hours in port. Fifteen tours were offered including visits to ruins, snorkeling and scuba diving. Tour prices range from $65 to $205. Having visited the ruins of Kohunlich and Dzibanche on previous trips I took the tour to Uvero Beach Club, which included an open bar, beach chairs and changing facilities. The ship supplied us with towels. The club had a small souvenir shop. It was almost an hour’s drive passing low-lying forests and mangroves. The club had a white sandy beach surrounded by palm tress and the turquoise water of the Caribbean, but I found the water was too cold for swimming. They offered continuous shuttle services back to the ship. March 1. Roatan, Honduras. We had ten hours in port during which 11 tours were offered, including such activities as deep sea fishing, off-road buggy riding and snorkeling. Tour prices ranged from $55 to $299. Roatan is the largest of three islands that make up Islas de la Bahia; the other two islands are Utila and Guanaja. We docked at the Mahogany Bay Cruise Pier, which offers a large shopping center right at dockside. I took the island tour. Following our departure from the ship we drove through the lush countryside and headed to Iguana Hideaway. It is a sanctuary where you can see the prehistoric-looking reptiles up close. When we got there we were given leaves for these creatures to chew. The walkways were covered with them. We were warned not to step on their tails as they could turn quickly and take a nip at your ankles. Some of the iguanas were over three feet long. From there we continued onto Pirate Bay. After some refreshments we visited the outdoor museum, which housed native huts, flora and fauna indigenous to the area. There was time to shop and enjoy the beautiful beach before returning to the ship. March 2. During the night we sailed the 150 nautical miles to Santo Tomas, Guatemala. The time in port would be ten hours. I have been to Tikal three times so I didn’t sign up for that tour. Instead I booked the tour to Quirigua Archaeological National Park. The one-and-a-half-hour ride on smooth roads was broken by a visit to a banana plantation. Quirigua was once a com- ANCIENT SITES, RAIN FORESTS & CORAL REEFS Exploring the Natural & Archaeological Treasures of Belize and Guatemala Aboard the American Small Ship Yorktown • January & February 2013 • Includes tours, excursions & lectures • FREE round-trip air to Belize City from Miami, Atlanta, Houston, DFW* • No Single Supplement* 7-night cruise fares from $3795 Cruise to Belize’s remarkable Barrier Reef. Discover magnificient ancient cities of the Maya. Delight in the exotic birds and wildlife of the cayes and jungles. Swim, snorkel or kayak. All on this remakrable close-to-home voyage! * Fare is per person, double, Cat. E. No single supplement offer for Cats. B ($5595) & C ($4995), subject to availability. Free air offer is economy from 4 gateways listed; add-ons from select US gateways, $295 pp. TravLtips: 800-872-8584 • cruises@travltips.com 138-guest Yorktown mercial center for the Mayans around 426 AD. The estimated 100,000 people lived in an area of about l8 square miles. As we strolled we saw many stelae; the tallest stela in the Mayan Empire is located here. We also visited the courtyard where they played their ball games. There was spectacular scenery as we headed back to the Commercial Pier where we had time to shop for souvenirs. March 3. We anchored at Belize City, Belize. The tender ride to the center of the town was 20 minutes. Tours offered included SAVE with our Air-Sea-Land Package! The Freighter to Paradise Aranui 3 2012 cruise fares starting from $3,827 pp* Limited Fall Space Available! 2013 now booking! Call today for details. Cruise aboard “the lifeline of the Marquesas!” The Aranui 3 offers fascinating 14-day voyages round trip from Papeete, Tahiti to the famed Marquesas and Tuamotus. A variety of accommodations are available from standard cabins to deluxe suites with balconies. The ship has an outdoor pool, dining room, two lounges, two bars, a library, and a gym. Learn Marquesan history and culture from guest lecturers. And have fun with the spirited crew! “Air-Sea-Land” Package includes: • Round trip scheduled air service from Los Angeles to Papeete • 3-night hotel stay in Papeete, before and/or after cruise. • 13 nights in category A double cabin (two lower berths, private facilities) aboard Aranui 3. • Airport-hotel-ship Papeete transfers. *Rate is per person, double occupancy, Cat. A, cruise-only. Taxes additional. Call for details & brochure: TravLtips 800-872-8584 www.travltips.com/cruises/freighter/aranui3.php TravLtips 3 PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEANIA CRUISES If you want a cruise with friendly, wonderful service, good food, and informal, yet luxurious elegance then this is the one. The sister ship, Riviera, will be operating the Mayan Mystique itinerary in 2013. p —Philip Shart, Tamarac FL The club-like library, a distinctive Oceania feature. zip-line, hiking, floating through caves (cave tubing), snorkeling, scuba diving and a visit to Lamanai Mayan Ruins. Prices ranged from $105 to $l25. I decided to take the airboat excursion, as I had never been on one. We drove through the town, which was established in 1683 by shipwrecked British sailors. Saint John’s Cathedral is the oldest cathedral in Central America. We arrived at Almond Hill Lagoon where we were given a safety briefing about travel on an airboat. We were also given ear covers to protect our hearing when the motor was on. The airboat travels at 40 mph. We entered the lagoon in search of manatees but these shy, docile creatures didn’t appear. Next we continued onto Indian Creek where we saw pristine mangroves, water lilies, turtles, and a variety of birds. We each held a chart showing birds; when we saw a bird the guide pointed to the chart so we could see which bird it was. Each time I’ve cruised to Belize we’ve had to tender. Ships anchor outside the harbor to prevent destroying the barrier reef that scuba divers enjoy. We sailed having had ten hours in the port. March 4. We had showers throughout our eight hours in Cozumel. Nine excursions ranging in price from $105 to $l80 included speedboat tours, scuba, snorkeling and an ATV adventure. I decided on Cozumel Highlights and shopping. We arrived at the Discover Mexico Park and viewed a ten-minute film about the diversity of Mexico. We then moved out into lovely gardens with replicas of popular Mexican attractions from the Mayan temples to historical Mexico City. The indoor museum housed work of local artists and a small shop. The next stop was El Cedral, once the hub of Mayan life, which is believed to have been founded by the Spaniards around 1518. The original buildings have been destroyed or fallen into ruins. I felt this stop had been overhyped. We motored next to the eastern side of the island for the limestone formations, blowholes, and natural arches formed by the pounding waves. I am Cancerian and am ruled by the sea. It was paradise to watch the waves hit the rocks with the spray leaping up into the air. We then headed to the downtown area for shopping. However, it was Sunday and the majority of the stores were closed, so most elected to return to the ship. March 5. Our last port of call was George Town, Grand Cayman. It was a windy dull day, with waves of five to eight feet; it was an adventure getting out of the tender. It was a bouncy 15-minute ride to the dock in town. Ten excursions including a helicopter tour, a visit to stingrays, and an Atlantis Submarine ride were offered ranging in price from $105 to $205. I took The Cultural Express. Following the coast road we headed to Pedro St. James National Historic Site. We toured Pedro’s Castle, which was really a three-story building and walked around the lush gardens. This was the birthplace of Democracy for the Cayman Islands. The tour continued through Bodden Town with many colored traditional Cayman homesteads. Before returning to the ship we made a stop at the Botanical Gardens where we strolled around looking at the exotic plants and got a look at the endangered blue iguana. March 6. This was the last day of the cruise. It was overcast and the Marina lumbered through heavy seas. It was a great day for packing. Bags had to be out by ten that night. March 7. We arrived back at Terminal J in Miami. The first group was called to leave the ship at 8:00 a.m. and the last group was called at 9:15. Current Data: Oceania Cruises was formed in 2002 by luxury cruise industry veterans Joe Watters and Frank Del Rio and is the world’s only upper premium cruise line. Cuisine, comfort, service and outstanding value are the pillars that define Oceania Cruises’ five-star product and have positioned the line as the cruise company of choice for travelers seeking a truly refined and casually elegant travel experience. Judging from TravLtips passenger feedback and from the industry in general, that is exactly what they have accomplished in their almost ten years of operation. As the leader in destination cruising sailing to more than 330 ports around the globe, Oceania Cruises’ intimate and luxurious ships allow you to explore the world in unequalled style and comfort. Itineraries are unique in that they call on the a mix of must-see marquee and off-the-beaten-path ports. Multiple overnight calls afford an in-depth, enriching destination experience and allow travelers to immerse themselves in the cuisine, culture and history of the ports visited. Oceania Cruises appeals to discerning, sophisticated travelers in search of world-class cuisine, unparalleled personal service, and an enriching, in-depth, destination-oriented experience. The 1,250-guest Marina debuted in January 2011 and her sister ship, Riviera, debuted in May 2012. Sophisticated, stylish and distinctly mid-size, you’ll find the onboard atmosphere is extremely convivial, and with an unrivaled level of personalized service as a result of having two staff members for every three guests. They join Oceania’s acclaimed, award-winning sister ships Regatta, Insignia and Nautica in offering the finest cuisine at sea, warm and personalized service and a destination experience that is second to none. TravLtips is again offering a variety of sailings as well as longer exotic voyages on all Oceania vessels. The “Mayan Mystique” itinerary described in Philip Shart’s preceding story is offered March 18 – 28, 2013 aboard Marina’s sister ship, Riviera. TravLtips rates include air, prepaid gratuities, $100 ship credit and taxes; space is limited on this popular sailing. A few other voyages to consider: “Enchanted Amazon” November 2 – 27, 2012 for 25 days aboard Regatta sailing round trip from Miami including air, prepaid gratuities, $100 ship credit and taxes. “Passage to Panama” December 4 – 20, 2012 for 16 days aboard Regatta from Miami to Los Angeles including air, prepaid gratuities, $200 ship credit and taxes. “Southern Gems Grand Voyage” December 10, 2012 – January 16, 2013 for 20 days aboard Marina from Rio de Janeiro to Papeete including air, prepaid gratuities, $250 ship credit and taxes.”Route of Great Traders” April 4 – May 20, 2013 for 46 days aboard Nautica from Bangkok to Civitavecchia (Rome) including air, prepaid gratuities, $250 ship credit and taxes. For our updated Oceania Cruises 2012/2013 “Connoisseur Voyages” flyer or information on any of the preceding cruise programs mentioned, call us at 800-872-8584 or e-mail cruises@travltips.com. Exploring the Treasures of Amazon Adventure Africa Aboard Oceania Cruises Regatta round trip from New York to Miami November 2 – 27, 2012 for 25 days Fares from only $4999* T his perennial favorite will visit select stops in the Caribbean and West Indies not often found on the standard cruise itinerary then sail into the mysterious and diverse biosystem know as the Amazon basin. The featured ship is the elegant Regatta of Oceania Cruises, an innovative company with a desire to provide an extremely high level of food and service in an informal setting that is at once elegant yet comfortable. The 684-passenger Regatta was one a series of eight almost identical mid-size ships, originally built by the former Renaissance Cruises. The respected cruise reference, Berlitz Ocean Cruising and Cruise Ships, feels the Oceania ships are “best suited to couples who like good food and style, but want informality with no formal nights on board and interesting itineraries, all at a reasonable price below what luxury ships charge.” Itinerary: Fly to New York embark and sail to Bermuda, St. Barts, St. Lucia, Trinidad, Santarem, Boca da Valeria, Manaus (2 days), Parintins, Devils Island, Barbados, Martinique, Virgin Gorda, San Juan and return Miami. Rates include round trip air, prepaid ship gratuities and $100 ship credit per stateroom! *Fare quoted per person, double occupancy for category “G” stateroom and includes air from select gateways, prepaid ship tips, $100 ship credit. Government taxes of $425 and transfers of $158 are additional. Fare subject to availability. TravLtips 800-872-8584 P.O. Box 580188, Flushing, NY 11358 e-mail: cruises@travltips.com 4 Summer 2012 January - March 2013 Free Round-Trip Air!* No Single Supplement!* Program Inclusions: • Cruise aboard all-suite, 100-guest Corinthian • Welcome & farewell cocktail receptions aboard ship • All meals aboard ship, including house wine, beer, & soft drinks with lunch & dinner • Open bar aboard ship • Complete program of tours and excursions • Enrichment program by guest lecturers & naturalists • Professional Travel Dynamics International tour staff • Pre-departure materials • Baggage handling & transfers on arrival & departure dates • Port & embarkation taxes • Gratuities to porters, guides, drivers View the brochure: www.travltips.com/africa.pdf * No Single Supplement, Cats C-A, limited to availability. Discover the Unknown Shores of Africa! From the Strait of Gibraltar to Ghana’s Gold Coast Malaga to Accra Jan. 14 - Feb. 2, 2013 Mar. 5 - 24, 2013 (reverse) Ghana’s Gold Coast to Cape Town Jan. 30 - Feb. 19, 2013 Feb. 17 - Mar. 8, 2013 (reverse) Grand African Odyssey: Malaga to Cape Town Jan. 14 - Feb. 19, 2013 Feb. 17 - Mar. 24, 2013 (reverse) * Free air is economy from New York. Add-ons from US gateways, $99-199 p.p. The elegant Corinthian has 50 beautiful suites, an exquisite restaurant, two comfortable lounges, library, gym and a sun deck with a Jacuzzi. Her small-ship intimacy is like a private yacht. TravLtips: 800-872-8584 • cruises@travltips.com Star Clippers The Pacific Coasts of Costa Rica, Panama & Nicaragua Aboard Star Flyer Story and photos by Mary R. Hiller I n November 2010, the Star Flyer initiated completely new itineraries in Central America featuring the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Like many Star Clippers ship devotees, we had never been to that area so we decided to give it a try. We started off early from Boston, arriving in San Jose, Costa Rica around 2:00 p.m. Central Standard Time. We had a short wait in the Intercontinental Hotel while other passengers gathered and then a bus took us across the high midlands of Costa Rica and down to the port of Puerto Caldera. Puerto Caldera is an industrial port in the Central Pacific coast area. The Island Princess (2,500 passengers) was moored behind a freighter and the Star Flyer was anchored off, lights ablaze, looking very inviting. After the paperwork of turning in passports and credit card details, we received our room keys and boarded the tender for the five-minute ride out to the ship where there was a good landing platform and a gangway to the upper deck. Our cabin was all the way forward on the starboard side. It was relatively roomy with plenty of shelves and hanging lockers. Our large suitcase was waiting for us and our swim fins, in their net bag, arrived soon after we did. We changed into something cooler and went up for an orientation talk by Ximena, the cruise director (who had been cruise director when we were on the Royal Clipper last year). Dinner provided the opportunity to meet some of the many interesting, knowledgeable and fun passengers who were joining us on our voyage, which was the second Costa Rican passage for Star Flyer. The basic route was south to Panama the first week, and then we would make our way slowly back to Puerto Caldera and head north the second week to Nicaragua before returning to Puerto Caldera. Because the whole itinerary was new and untested, there was much to learn along the way. For example, the first stop was to have been Isla de Coiba in Panama, but Star Clippers had learned that this island was now fairly overrun by large cruise ships, so they changed the call to a small, private, secluded island of Panama, which was much more to the pleasure of our small group of 90 passengers. That first stop, Isla Parida, was part of an idyllic protected group of islands forming the Parque Nacional Marino Golfo de Chiriquí. The tenders took us to one island with a lovely crescent bay of white sand, tall palms, and blue water. We ignored the gentle rain that came down, flipped around our brass room number signal on the board by the gangway, to indicate we had left the Star Flyer, and boarded the tender headed for the beach where we enjoyed a warm, rainy swim and a good look around. Because of the rain, the sports crew did not set up boats and waterskiing, but the area looked like it would be excellent for watersports. The next stop was Golfito, an old United Fruit Company port in Costa Rica. Here we had the good luck that sometimes occurs when one is on one’s own. We found a boat driver happy to take four of us touring the mangroves and then to the beach at Playa Zancudo. But as the day progressed, he offered us four hours of touring instead and suggested that the waves on the beach were not good for us and that rain was coming. We agreed, and had an unbelievable tour seeing a number of various herons (great blue, small blue, green, bare-necked tiger), white ibis, white egrets, whimbrels and willets, spotted sandpipers, a large dove, yellowbellied brown birds, several other small birds like the banded wren, a few capuchin monkeys, crocodiles (several small ones and one huge sunning monster), crabs, an iguana, a Jesus Christ lizard (Basilica basilica) that ran across the water very fast, lots of Above left: Mary and Edwin Hiller aboard the Star Flyer. Above: The 170-passenger Star Flyer was built long and narrow with extremely tall rigs, which enables her to carry 36,000 square feet of billowing sail. Above right: Isla Tortuga is an idyllic tropical isle with a magnificent white-sand beach located off Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula. “The sun now began to shine with wonderful vigor and brightness and every time we went swimming the snorkeling was better and better. Before the end of the cruise we had seen spotted morays, green turtles, schools of sergeant majors, blue damselfish, jacks and wrasses.” osprey, frigate birds, pelicans, cormorants, oystercatchers, black vultures, kingfishers (also human fishers, fishing for snapper), and finally, to cap it all off, three howler monkeys eating leaves from a tree by the bay. Our guide was a bit hard to understand and we were thoroughly drenched from the rain when we returned, but we had all been prepared to go swimming, so water didn’t hurt us. We were thrilled with our wonderful tour of the mangroves and the area around Golfito. This day was not topped for flora and fauna sightings, although we went on another mangrove tour the next day out of Drake’s Bay and again saw many birds as well as a twotoed sloth. The sun now began to shine with wonderful vigor and brightness and every time we went swimming the snorkeling was better and better. Before the end of the cruise we had seen spotted morays, green turtles, schools of sergeant majors, blue damselfish, jacks and wrasses. Although the visibility was not perfect because of the fine volcanic sand suspended in the water after the rainy season, the snorkeling was fun and the beaches were lovely even with grey or black sand. Since we were doing a back-to-back cruise, we had a day mid voyage back in Puerto Caldera to spend as we wished. We decided to take the offered ship’s excursion to Monteverde, located high in the cloud forest at 4,600 feet. We were taken by a small bus on a lovely tour, up into the interior of Costa Rica. Monteverde was settled by Quakers and pacifists avoiding the Korean War, many from Alabama, after Costa Rica gave up its army in 1948. The area is largely cattle farms and rain forest. There is a wonderful sense of saving everything from further development that is pervasive in Costa Rica. With the largest literacy rate in Central America, they have done an excellent job of persuading their citizens that the future is best served by preserving their ecology. After we departed from Puerto Caldera for the second week we had a day at sea as we headed to San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. Then we had a daylong tour of Nicaragua, with visits to a craft market, huge Lake Nicaragua, many steaming volcanoes and the old colonial town of Granada. We gained a lot of new knowledge during this infor- EXPLORE the Alaskan Wilderness Embark on an expedition un-cruise aboard the newly-refurbished 76-guest Wilderness Explorer Active 8 Day/7 night Juneau to Sitka adventures include hiking, kayaking, paddle boarding, whale watching, and skiff exploration Featuring 3 days in Glacier Bay For more details and brochures call 800-872-8584 info@travltips.com TravLtips 5 Clockwise from top left: The all-day tour in Nicaragua included Nindirí where visitors viewed a steaming volcanic crater from the overlook. Spotted sandpipers and a huge crocodile were just some of a multitude of diverse wildlife viewed by our authors during a tour of the mangroves and the area around Golfito. A breakfast buffet by the piano bar is provided for early risers. Morning exercise aboard Star Flyer. The 170-passenger Star Flyer. We decided to take the offered ship’s excursion to Monteverde, located high in the cloud forest at 4,600 feet. We were taken by a small bus on a lovely tour, up into the interior of Costa Rica. Winter Caribbean Combination Cruises Aboard MSC Cruises popular Poesia ~ 14 days round trip from Ft. Lauderdale Plus Spring 2013 Transatlantic Value Voyage! The MSC Poesia began passenger service in March 2008 and this 93,000-ton sized vessel has received many accolades. As with all MSC ships, Poesia reflects the atmosphere and service comparable to the best Italian hotels. She is an elegant vessel that offers Italian and continental cuisine served by an attentive international staff. Caribbean Departures: December 21, January 19 and February 16 Ports of call: Ft. Lauderdale, Falmouth ( Jamaica) Grand Cayman, Cozumel, Roatan (Honduras), Antigua, San Juan, Freeport, St. Maarten, St. Thomas, Nassau, Ft. Lauderdale (exact itinerary dependent on departure date) Rates from only $1199! Spring Transatlantic: April 20 – May 7, 2013 Sail for 18 days from Ft. Lauderdale to New York, transatlantic crossing, Ponta Delgada, Lisbon, LaCoruna, Dover and Kiel (Hamburg). Rates from only $949! TravLtips P.O. Box 580188 • Flushing, NY 11358 800-872-8584 e-mail: cruises@travltips.com 6 Summer 2012 *Above rates quoted in US$ per person double occupancy for an inside stateroom. Single occupancy is 150%. Government taxes additional. Rates subject to change and availability. mative excursion. The contrast between Nicaragua and Costa Rica was striking, but considering their different histories, not too surprising. Our second week continued with visits in northwest Costa Rica to the beach resort of Playas del Coco and Santa Rosa National Park. The latter protects a large area of savannah, deciduous forest, marshlands, and mangroves and is home to a large number of diverse animals including several monkey and large cat species. We also had a visit to Isla Tortuga, an idyllic tropical isle with a magnificent white-sand beach, and the Curu National Wildlife Reserve located on Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula. Curu is home to much assorted wildlife, including over 200 bird species, occupying habitats ranging from marine zones to dry and moist forest. “Our itineraries covered sailing distances of 413 nautical miles during week one and 439 nautical miles the second week. There are many tours of the national parks of Costa Rica with exotic flora and fauna, sky canopy tours, hikes, kayaking and river rafting as well as lovely beaches and snorkeling at some of the anchorages.” Our itineraries covered sailing distances of 413 nautical miles during week one and 439 nautical miles the second week. The captain of the Star Flyer, Mariusz Szalek, and all the members of his crew did all they could to make the new itinerary interesting and involving for the passengers. There are many tours of the national parks of Costa Rica with exotic flora and fauna, sky canopy tours, hikes, kayaking and river rafting as well as lovely beaches and snorkeling at some of the anchorages. All of the landings are “wet” and use either the tenders or the Zodiacs, but the crew is adept at helping the less than nimble handle these Star Flyer Continued from previous page obstacles. The meals are full of variety and the bar staff is not pushy. All in all, two weeks on the Star Flyer on the west coast of Costa Rica offers a unique and exciting experience and a new way to see this unusual area. p — Mary R. Hiller, East Andover NH ehiller@tds.net Current Data: The 170-passenger Star Flyer was built long and narrow with extremely tall rigs, which enables her to carry 36,000 square feet of billowing sail. Launched in 1991, she is a true re-creation of the historic 19th-century sailing clipper ships. Ambiance is intimate yet accommodations are surprisingly spacious for a sailing ship. Cabins are complete with telephone, TV monitor, marble-accented bathroom with shower, hairdryer, vanity and storage. Public areas include two small pools, the outdoor Tropical Bar area and inside Piano Bar. A beautiful and restful library is cozily designed with fireplace, marine paintings and rich wood paneling. The elegant dining room offers a mellow setting rich with warm woods and brass accents, all complementing the delicious cuisine. There are two opportunities for TravLtips members to save 60% on Star Clippers’ Central American itineraries aboard the Star Flyer this coming season. Both are back-to-back, 14-night cruises that explore the Pacific coasts of Costa Rica, Panama and Nicaragua, but with slightly different routes. The December 9, 2012 departure is from Balboa, Panama to Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica with calls at Isla Iguana and Isla Gomez, Panama; Golfito, Drake Bay, Quepos and Curu National Reserve, Costa Rica; San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua; Playa del Coco, Santa Rosa National Park, Flamingo Beach, Isla Tortugas, and Curu, Costa Rica. The January 20, 2013 departure is a round trip from Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica and follows the above itinerary from Isla Gomez. TravLtips two-week cruise-only discounted rates range from $2240 to $2800 per person, double occupancy. Port charges of $450 per person are additional. Star Clipper (sister ship of Star Flyer) explores the Leeward Islands and British Virgins round trip from St. Maarten. Members can save 60% on two 14-night back-to-back departures this winter season: December 1, 2012 and January 19, 2013. Sail from Philipsburg, St. Maarten with calls at Nevis, Dominica, Iles de Saintes, Guadeloupe, Antigua, St. Barts, Anguilla, Virgin Gorda, Norman Island, Tortola, Jost van Dyke and St. Kitts. TravLtips two-week cruise-only discounted rates again range from $2240 to $2800 per person, double occupancy, with port charges of $450 per person additional. The third ship in the Star Clippers fleet is the 439-foot Royal Clipper, which accommodates up to 227 passengers. This modern vessel is the largest five-masted fully rigged ship built since the legendary Preussen in 1902. TravLtips members can explore the Windward Islands and Grenadine Islands aboard the Royal Clipper, round trip Barbados, December 8, 2012 or March 23, 2013 for 14 nights and save up to 60%! Sail from Bridgetown, Barbados with calls at St. Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, St. Kitts, Iles des Saintes, Martinique, the Grenadines, Grenada, Tobago Cays, St. Vincent, Bequia and St. Lucia. TravLtips discounted fares range from $2320 to $2940 per person, double occupancy. Add $450 per person for port charges. Other Star Clippers itineraries with significant savings for TravLtips members include the Panama Canal (November 25, 2012 or March 30, 2013); Greek Isles & Turkey (October 6, 2012); Mediterranean (call for remaining late summer and fall 2012 availability); and transatlantic crossings (October 20 or 27, 2012 and spring 2013). Contact TravLtips for details and assistance on any Star Clippers voyage: 800-872-8584 or cruises@travltips.com. “Captain Mariusz Szalek and all the members of his crew did all they could to make the new itinerary interesting and involving for the passengers.” Travel Dynamics International Cruising the Great Lakes By Small Ship Story by Marcia De Fren • Photos by Burt De Fren A passenger takes the opportunity to shoot a lock on the Welland Canal before the gate opens to discharge the ship at a new level. O ur golden wedding anniversary was fast approaching in August, and we wanted to do something really special to celebrate the event. Europe is always an option; we’ve been there many times and may yet go back, but this year we decided to travel closer to home. We chose the Great Lakes trip from Toronto to Duluth operated by Travel Dynamics International, which we learned about through TravLtips, and began planning in July. At that time there was a wide array of educational theme choices for this package, replete with lecturers and specialists in the subject at hand. Besides family cruises (which we rejected because our grandkids weren’t available), photography, music, technology and health & wellness all seemed appealing. We finally chose the second of the two photographythemed trips, since my husband, Burt, has been an avid photographer for years. His hopes were that, by mid-September, fall foliage would be in full bloom and photo-ops would be plentiful. Little did we know that, at the time of booking, the Clelia II would not be plying the Great Lakes again. (Editor’s Note: TDI now operates the 138-passenger Yorktown on the Great Lakes and the Clelia II will be returning to TDI in 2013 and renamed Corinthian.) In a sense, this made our trip all the more special because we felt we were catching something before it disappears. As a retired social studies teacher, I have always been fascinated by the Great Lakes. I remember a rather large unit taught in the New York State Junior High School curriculum covering the Indian tribes that inhabited the region, the importance of the Lakes during the War of 1812, the spectacular canal era, and the emergence of modern commerce with the advent of shipping companies that linked the railroads and the ore mines. From a geographical standpoint, the Lakes are one of the great natural wonders of the world. The five Great Lakes— Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario—and their connecting channels form the largest fresh surface water system on Earth. If you stood on the moon, you could easily see the lakes and recognize the familiar shapes. They hold an estimated six quadrillion gallons of water, about one-fifth of the world’s fresh surface water supply, and almost nine-tenths of the U.S. supply. Lake Superior’s volume is so large that it could contain the water of all the other Great Lakes plus the volume of three additional lakes the size of Lake Erie. Four of the five Great Lakes are at different elevations, leading like a series of steps toward the Atlantic Ocean. The five individual lakes are connected to each other through channel ways, forming one system. Water continually flows from the headwaters of the Lake Superior basin through the remainder of the system. Niagara Falls were always an obstacle to navigation into the upper lakes until the TrentSevern Waterway, along with the Welland and Erie Canals, were built to allow ships to pass around this bottleneck. The TravLtips brochure assured us that The Falls and the Welland would be part of our educational experience. The Great Lakes watershed includes part or all of eight U.S. states (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York) and the Canadian province of Ontario. We were excited to begin our journey in the City of Toronto and gladly signed on for a trip extension of two days, so we could explore a part of Canada we had never seen before. We even added an extra day on our own, since we knew the first day was really devoted just to getting there. “From a geographical standpoint, the Lakes are one of the great natural wonders of the world. The five Great Lakes— Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario— and their connecting channels form the largest fresh surface water system on Earth.” Prior Great Lakes trip extension travelers had been housed at the Four Seasons Hotel but our trip extension put us in the Fairmont Royal York, a venerable hotel with a suite on top especially reserved for Her Royal Majesty. The room was cramped; the food (one dinner) was pricey. The extension did include a generous buffet breakfast that was excellent and one could pocket an apple or banana for later and skip lunch. During our stay there was a walkout staged by the help but we had enough towels, and turndown service isn’t that important to us, so we were hardly inconvenienced. We made a big mistake on our first day in Toronto. It is such a large city that one can scarcely see everything in a short period of time. What we should have done is purchase a ticket to the Step On/Step Off bus tour, which is reasonably priced at $29 Canadian (at this point the Canadian and US dollars were almost at par). Instead, we trudged off to see one of the famous sights: the St. Lawrence Market, a large, impressive emporium of gastronomic goodies. From there, we headed out for the Distillery District, an historic old brick-building area that now contains artists’ studios, galleries, cafes and retail shops. At this point Burt said, “I quit,” and returned to the hotel. We had walked too much for our first day. I trudged on alone and by the time I reached the Distillery, was too tired to gallery hop or shop. I took a cab back to the hotel with a charming Sikh TravLtips 7 Clockwise from top left: Photographers had a field day during the excursion to Niagara Falls. “The blue ponchos provided by the Maid of the Mist did little to keep us dry at Niagara, but the ride was exhilarating.” Marcia and Burt De Fren, standing at the overlook walkway, near Arch Rock, on Mackinac Island. PHOTO BY TABITHA. The Objibwe Cultural Foundation members treated passengers to a genuine powwow. cabbie who tried to point out all the sights I could have seen on the way. Another disappointment, over which we had little control, was that the ten-day Toronto Film Festival coincided with our stay. Most of the tickets were gone through advance sales and we were reluctant to queue up for hours to see a movie of unknown worth. Even legitimate theatres, for which Toronto is known, were not showing their productions and were being used as movie venues, so we missed a play we had wanted to see by the Ephron sisters. Nor did we spot any celebrities, who were closely guarded and surrounded by paparazzi. We were amused to see Martin Sheen and son Emilio Estevez on the TV news joining the picket lines in front of our hotel. Things looked up the next day when we were taken on a four-hour tour of the city (which included the St. Lawrence Market!). The driver/commentator, Fred, did an excellent job, giving us an extensive overview of the City. The highlight of the tour was a visit to the Art Gallery of Ontario. We had a private tour with a member of the staff who acquainted us with the magnificent building’s history, architecture, and art contents. After such a lengthy tour, we rested up before our next walk to the famous CN Tower for an early dinner. The Tower, like many others of its ilk, rotates 360 degrees in about an hour and a half, Transatlantic Ocean Crossings Under Sail! 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Call TravLtips 800-872-8584 8 Summer 2012 giving patrons a special view of the City that one can only get from on high. Our timing was excellent; we saw the City both before and after sundown, while we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner (that cost a king’s ransom!). During our last morning in Toronto, we explored the Underground, a vast labyrinth of shops under the City, which conveniently began at our hotel. It’s not a subway, although Toronto has one attached to it. In the early afternoon, our Travel Dynamics representative, Nina, efficiently dispatched our bags and escorted us on two buses that took us to the Clelia II. We had to go through a miniature version of airport screening, but soon were aboard, receiving our room keys while the ingratiating staff plied us with hors d’oeuvres and champagne mimosas. We love small ship travel, and have been on many. The Clelia II, a “luxury expedition cruise ship,” exceeded our expectations. She was originally launched as the Renaissance IV in 1990 and underwent a $19.2 million refurbishment and redecoration in 2009. After a stint with Orion Expeditions, as the Orion II, TDI will again operate her in 2013 as the Corinthian. Measuring a sleek 88 metres long, the 4,077-ton vessel boasts 50 luxury suites, each of which affords ocean views, either by porthole, window or sliding doors. Having sailed on other expedition cruise lines, and being used to dormitory-like efficiency spaces, we were overwhelmed when our housekeeper, Mary Ann, brought us to our cabin. There we saw a spacious room, appointed with a sitting area containing a couch and cof- fee table, two oversized twin beds, a long desk cum dressing table and (oh, be still my heart!) a large walk-in closet with a chest of drawers, two hanging bars and ample floor space for shoes and empty luggage. There were also plenty of other cubbies, lockers and shelves available throughout the room, convenient to stuff sundries such as ponchos, umbrellas, fanny packs, extra books and brochures. A small refrigerator was well stocked with a selection of sodas, water and beer. (The ship serves alcoholic beverages at all times of the day for no charge.) The bathroom was not cramped and the shower was self-contained. Top-of-the-line cosmetics were provided in large baskets. We were by no means in the highest category, but our cabin was similar to the luxury suites we’ve seen on other cruise ships. Suites on board range from 215 to 285 feet and the most deluxe veranda and penthouse suites boast a private balcony. Each cabin had a TV/DVD player, with one channel devoted to the view of the ship’s progress and another, a webcam view from the Bridge. We received news of the outside world via CNN. Movie reception was imperfect, but our history expert provided excellent documentary films that we enjoyed. Amenities included a well-stocked library with Internet access and the “Times Digest,” a small gym/spa, a Jacuzzi, a beauty salon, and an infirmary with a qualified doctor. (We were surprised that the doctor charged fees for service whereas other small ships we had been on provided doctors who were themselves traveling for free, but had office hours that were Left: Passengers enjoyed a narrated tour of Mackinac Island by horse-drawn carriages. Here Marcia De Fren poses with Tabby, their driver. Above: At Thunder Bay we were treated to a guided walking tour of Fort William, a replica of an old trading post. The guide roleplayed a courier de bois from back in the day.” gratis.) Two lounges—the smaller one used for afternoon tea and after-dinner schmoozing, and a larger one for lectures and briefings—were on separate decks. The vessel accommodates 100 passengers and is staffed by 70 officers and crew. On our trip, there were only 72 passengers, some of the singles having opted to room alone. It was a mixed group with passengers booked through many different sponsors and organizations. One would think that the disparate groups would cleave to their own, but the open seating at meals, the small ship setting and the outings encouraged mingling of fellow travelers. I can truthfully say that I have not met a more friendly, inquisitive, well-versed, or interesting group in a long time. The Daily Program listing all activities was delivered to our cabin every evening. Announcements regarding the schedule were made frequently over a PA system or at group gatherings. Cruise Director Luellen Hertel—a very capable and attractive woman assisted by her equally attractive son Stefan Hertel and Nina Padden as tour managers—ran a tight ship with efficiency and diplomacy. “Despite the free ponchos, our exciting ride on the Maid of the Mist was very wet, but exhilarating. Afterward, we saw the falls from another vantage point at Table Rock and photographers in our group had a field day.” the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries more comprehensible to the non-historian. Our first day onboard was given up to shipboard tasks including the mandatory safety drill that all seagoing vessels must impose on passengers. Because we would be traversing the U.S.-Canadian border several times, we had to relinquish our passports to the chief purser. Captain Andrey Domanin, who hails from Ukraine, introduced us to our onboard staff. His bridge officers were a mélange of mostly eastern Europeans from Hungary, Russia, Austria, Bulgaria, Romania and Greece. The service staff, housekeeping and dining room personnel were largely from the Philippines. Our second day had us traversing the eight locks of the 28-mile-long Welland Canal. It takes approximately 12 minutes to enter and leave each lock. We marveled at this engineering achievement, which opened in 1932, the latest of a series of canals originally built in the 19th century to solve the problem of transporting goods through the Niagara River. In the afternoon, we were treated to the famous Niagara Falls. Despite the free ponchos, our exciting ride on the Maid of the Mist was very wet, but exhilarating. Afterward, we saw the falls from another vantage point at Table Rock and photographers in our group had a field day. I have always wanted to visit Niagara Falls. My parents spent their honeymoon there, a popular trend during the 1920s. I still have pictures of this young poncho-bedecked couple having the time of their lives and here I was, finally, at the place where it all began for my family. We returned to the ship in time to dress up for the welcoming Captain’s Cocktail Reception in the lounge. A word about dress: but for the welcoming reception and the traditional Captain’s Farewell Cocktail Party, there was little impetus to dress for dinner. Some men chose to wear jackets Fall Colors Offers Now Available! When we signed on, we were promised two lecturers. One was to be David Graham, a renowned photographer whose work has been exhibited at MOMA in New York, the Art Institute in Chicago and other art institutions. Unfortunately, illness prevented his appearance and a last-minute switch was made that did not displease us. Rebecca Picard, a professional and commercial photographer who, for ten years, has traveled the globe to amass a portfolio that can be seen on book covers, Web sites and numerous magazines, became our photo expert. She was enthusiastic and readily available to help tyros as well as expert amateurs achieve satisfying results with their pictures. Her lectures included “Getting Started with Digital Photography,” “Beyond Auto-mode Settings and Exposure,” and “Editing, Archiving and Sharing.” Our other lecturer was Dr. Sally Reynolds, a tenured professor at the University of North Carolina. Fluent in French, she had researched original sources for her lectures on the explorer Champlain, the fur trading voyageurs, the friendly and unfriendly encounters between the Europeans and Native Americans, the battle for North America during the French and Indian War, and the Wars of Independence and 1812 between Britain and the colonies. Using numerous slides, portraits, maps and other illustrations, she made the Canadian worlds of TravLtips 9 Clockwise from top left: The spacious, attractive restaurant provides lunch buffets and served dinners. A suite similar to that occupied by our authors, appointed with a sitting area containing a couch and coffee table, a bedroom with a long desk cum dressing table and a large walk-in closet. “The food on board was abundant and well-prepared; in the afternoons at sea, there was tea and pastries or a special serving of ice cream and crepes!” PHOTO BY MARCIA DE FREN “Two lounges—the smaller one used for afternoon tea and after-dinner schmoozing, and a larger one for lectures and briefings— were on separate decks.” SHIP PHOTOS COURTESY OF TRAVEL DYNAMICS INT. we would take a catamaran ferry across the Straits of Mackinac. On the way, we were obliged to stop at the U.S. Customs depot, where we presented our passports, while a voluble agent engaged us in lengthy interrogations about our reasons for traveling, our professions and our place of residence. Your tax dollars at work! I was amused to be asked if I had attended the Fair in West Palm Beach, obviously a trick question. Mackinac Island is every bit as charming as reputed. While very much a tourist attraction, it avoids the Disney-like ambience that other places seem to acquire. No cars are permitted on the island, so transportation is either by bicycle or horsedrawn carriages. The homes are quaint Victorian-styled cottages and even the main drag, with its fudge and souvenir shops, avoids seeming honky-tonk. We first went by carriage to Fort Mackinac where we witnessed a re-enactment of the firing of muskets and an antique cannon. After viewing the barracks, schoolhouse, provisions stores, officers’ quarters, blockhouse and other buildings, we were again taken by carriage to the Grand Hotel for its infamous Grand Buffet lunch. Imagine ten wedding receptions in one room, with table after table of food, from appetizers to entrees, to carving stations, to endless high caloric desserts. One could go back for more and more and, of course, many did. for the latter, some women wore nice outfits, but the dress code was extremely casual. In fact, on several occasions, especially when we returned late from an excursion, I stayed in my sports clothes, adding a pin or scarf to change the look. There simply was no dress code per se and even “smart casual” was an exaggeration. After Niagara, we spent the next day at sea, which I always love. There’s something so relaxing about a “nothing-to-do day” at sea. Stefan conducted a yoga class in the lounge, our two lecturers began their series of informative talks, a bridge game was arranged after lunch, there was time for resting up and reading, and the weather was fine enough for a buffet lunch to be served on the deck. After a morning of lectures, our next day’s outing included a tour of Little Current, the largest settlement on Manitoulin Island. The Island is situated on the north shore of Lake Huron and is the world’s largest freshwater island. The weather up there was not to my liking. It was quite cold and, as a Floridian, I found I had not packed enough warm outerwear. We assembled under a tent at the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation and were treated to a genuine powwow with drumming, singing and dancing. They very graciously proffered a few blankets to block the cold wind, and I grabbed one for myself and two companions, in order to enjoy the show. Inside their museum, we viewed paintings and collages by some very talented native artists. We also took part in a “smudging ceremony” (basically a form of spiritual cleansing by burning natural elements such as sage, cedar, and sweet grass). Afterward, we visited the Immaculate Conception Church, with its unusual architecture in that it is circular and built into the ground. Many of the “First Nations” peoples, who comprise over a quarter of the island’s population, have converted to Christianity but, through rituals and metaphors, still adhere to the “old ways” in order to preserve their heritage. The sun shone more brightly the next day as we proceeded southward to Mackinac Island in Michigan. We had heard about Mackinac (pronounced mack-i-naw) for many years from friends who lived in Detroit, but never had managed to get there. We were delighted that this visit was one of the features of our tour. The U.S. Customs and Border Patrol had instituted a prohibition for cruise ships to anchor at Mackinac, so we started our day by docking at Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario. We then continued by bus over the U.S. border to the town of St. Ignace where Europe Four new revolutionary vessels will join our award-winning fleet in 2012 — the Viking Longships. State-of-the-art Viking Freya, Viking Idun, Viking Njord, and Viking Odin allow for full-size staterooms with full-size verandas and more. Russia The fully refurbished Viking Peterhof will debut with all-new Suites, Jr. Suites and Deluxe staterooms, joining sister ships Viking Surkov and Viking Kirov —the best fleet in Russia. China discover the best way to see the world. Nothing compares to the river. Where else but on the river can you journey into the heart of the world’s greatest cities and towns, and discover the true nature of the land? Comfortable and convenient, river cruising offers a greater variety of destinations than you could encounter any other way. Spend less time getting there and more time being there. Little wonder that river cruising is the fastest-growing segment of the travel industry. Sail aboard the newest ship in China, Viking Emerald — a state-of-the-art vessel with the largest suites in river cruising and all-veranda staterooms with sliding glass doors for the best views. 2012: Up toBooking 2-for-1 pricing! 2012 Early Discount 2-FOR-1 Cruise pricing! plus International Air Discounts. 2013: 2-for-1 TravLtips 800-872-8584 [Enter customized message • here] e-mail: cruises@travltips.com vikingrivercruises.com/myagent/travltips The world’s leading river cruise line...by far® 2-for-1cruise cruise requireairpayment in full by current expiration date; call for details. subject withdrawal any time. bookings only, subNote:* 2-for-1 andfares international discounts are considered a single offer. International air does not have Discounts to be purchased to getto cruise offer. Mustatrequest offer Valid EBD at on timenew of booking and pay in full by current date; calland for details. Valid new bookingswith onlyany as ofother 6/1/11,offers subjectexcept to availability and mayTravel not be Credit combinable any other offers except PastViking Guest Travel Creditthe and right Referral jectexpiration to availability may not beoncombinable Past Guest andwith Referral Rewards Credit. reserves to Rewards correct Credit. Viking reserves the right to correct errors and to change any and all fares, fees and surcharges at any time. Additional terms and conditions apply. For Passenger Ticket Contract and offer restrictions, errors change any anddetails. all fares, fees and surcharges at any time. Additional terms and conditions apply. contact yourand traveltoadvisor for complete CST#2052644-40 10 Summer 2012 “Mackinac Island is every bit as charming as reputed. While very much a tourist attraction, it avoids the Disney-like ambience that other places seem to acquire. No cars are permitted on the island, so transportation is either by bicycle or horse-drawn carriages.” We were invited to rest our bulging guts on the country’s longest porch as we awaited our next treat, a narrated tour of the island in a horse-drawn surrey. Tabitha (“call me Tabby”), a lovely young woman on recess from college, was a fount of information, clearly cared about her two horses (whom she grooms every day) and shared some of the gossip of the town. The weather was beautiful all day and Mackinac proved to be one of the highlights of our tour. Our experts’ lectures continued the next morning as we cruised for Red Rock, Ontario, a distance of 233 nautical miles. Once there, we were given three options: a strenuous rock-climbing hike to see Left: The Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island is the venue for an infamous luncheon buffet. Below Left: The Clelia II is a small luxury cruising ship that accommodates 100 guests. It will be re-named Corinthian for the 2013 season in West Africa and the Mediterranean. Below Right: The 138-guest Yorktown, specifically built for coastal cruising, will ply the Great Lakes and other eastern shores in 2013 for Travel Dynamics. PHOTO COURTESY OF TRAVEL DYNAMICS INT. 2013 schedule includes “The Inland Seas—A Voyage to the Five Great Lakes,” a ten-night route similar to that described in our story, between Duluth and Toronto departing August 8. Fares are from $4,995 per person, double. There will also be a series of seven-night Great Lakes voyages between Toronto and Chicago in July and August 2013. Fares are from $3,995 per person, double. The Yorktown will cruise the coast of New England and the Hudson River this October for a seven-night “Fall Splendor” program that should provide good foliage viewing along with the historic sites. The cruise is between Providence and New York City and departures are September 29 and October 13, 2012. Fares are from $3,995 per person, double occupancy. This winter TDI will cruise the coasts of Belize and Guatemala with the Yorktown; the seven-night program is called “Ancient Sites, Rain Forests & Coral Reefs” and has departures from January 12 through February 16, 2013. The Clelia II will be renamed the Corinthian upon her return to TDI and will operate inWest Africa (winter) and the Mediterranean breathtaking scenery (which few took); a photographic expedition to Eagle Canyon; or a bus tour of the town. Some of our intrepid travelers, paying an extra $55 for a one-minute thrill, took a zip-line ride from the cliff top to the bottom of the other side of the Canyon. The speed they traveled was 35 mph. Other less adventurous hikers walked the two suspension footbridges over the verdant canopy (one 300 feet and one 600 feet) that traversed the Canyon. Red Rock is the northernmost community on Lake Ontario. It was established in 1930 and during WWII served as a POW camp. It is situated on the “Mighty Nipigon” River and has some spectacular scenery surrounding the outskirts of the town. Burt took the Canyon tour hoping for some good photography. I took the town tour. The town of Red Rock has little to recommend it but the people. It is an area of extreme poverty, which is evident at every turn. The one paper mill, which supported the town, had been shut down causing extensive unemployment and the houses looked like shacks. But the people! They were the friendliest souls one could hope to meet. We arrived at the dock via Zodiacs and were greeted by town officials and a moose mascot we all called “Bullwinkle.” These ingratiating townsfolk did everything in their power to make us love them. Our tour included a smorgasbord of “show and tell” activities with our guide on the bus sending back an endless stream of old photos, samples of flora, rocks, fossils and other objects. We stopped at Bobby Bearman’s sculpture works to see his wood carvings (done with a chain saw), visited the Lake Helen Reserve to hear the Red Rock Indian Band, a group of elderly ladies who beat drums and sing native songs (and who plied us afterward with homemade bread and jam), went to a museum filled with every imaginable artifact a small northern community could amass: pictures, antimacassars, teapots, dolls, jugs, medals from the war, a canoe, Indian garb, tools, and an impressive collection of box cameras. The tour ended at the local meeting hall where we were given presents, small bags containing stones, pins of the trillium, the official flower of Ontario, and brochures extolling the Nipigon. The contrast between an impoverished community and the generosity of spirit of its inhabitants was extremely touching. Our last touring day was in Thunder Bay, Canada’s third largest freshwater port. Situated on the northern shore of Lake Superior, the town was originally a French trading post. We were treated to a guided walking tour of Fort William, a replica of the North West Company’s headquarters. Our guide, Josef, a role-playing coureur de bois, showed us through the fort, the fur storage room, the living quarters of a typical official, the infirmary with its old surgical tools, and the canoe workshop. A few passengers elected instead to visit the Boreal Forest Research Centre to see the Northwestern Ontario Fire Prevention Center. That evening, we had our Captain’s Farewell Dinner wherein we were shown a wonderful slide show of candid shots taken by Stefan and Nina, a pictorial compendium of the entire trip. We would be presented with a CD of these and a list of fellow travelers’ e-mail addresses as a present. Our trip ended the next day in Duluth, Minnesota where most of us would be flying home or starting new adventures. We had traveled a distance of 1,203 miles, met some wonderful people and learned much. The ship would turn around and make its last run through the Great Lakes, retracing its steps in reverse. In summary, there were few disappointments on this trip. The staff was top notch. Glitches, such as a bridge that wouldn’t open, were handled with aplomb by our cruise director and some activities were switched around, but we hardly felt inconvenienced. Our comfort and safety were always assured. (One passenger did take sick in the middle of the night and was dispatched to a local hospital without affecting the tour.) Burt never got his fall foliage—it was just a bit too early in the season—even that far north. But he got plenty of other photo opportunities and a chance to hobnob with other digital enthusiasts. Throughout the days, we were always well fed. Because of the cool weather, there were few alfresco lunches but the dining room always presented an ample buffet. I do feel that the evening dinner fare “missed.” There was plenty of it, with many options, and it was artfully presented (especially the desserts which were always plated on a beautifully decorated background of stained glass-like sugar coating). But, although always palatable and filling, the dinners, in my humble estimation, were not epicurean. My only other criticism, if one can call it such, was that the trip was too short. Not counting embarkation and disembarkation days, it really was a six-day cruise. I wanted more and, having paid a hefty price, felt there should have been more. Still, it was a memorable and exciting journey—one of the better small-ship adventures offerings I’ve experienced in quite some time. p —Marcia De Fren, West Palm Beach FL marciadefren@msn.com Current Data: Travel Dynamics International enjoys a reputation of excellence in small-ship cruising, established in over 40 years of operating and creating unique itineraries for the inquisitive traveler. They are dedicated to the exclusive use of small ships, which inspire an intimate learning experience among no more than 138 guests, and often fewer. TDI has become a leader in the field of “alumni travel” and more than 200 of America’s most prestigious universities, museums, cultural foundations and non-profit institutions sponsor their voyages. Each journey features scholars specially selected for their capacity as riveting lecturers, or top-name experts from various fields for guests’ enjoyment. TravLtips’ format as a membership organization has enabled members to participate in many exciting TDI programs. TDI now operates the 138-guest Yorktown in the Great Lakes. The Yorktown is a more traditional small ship, rather than an allsuite luxury vessel, but very comfortable and specifically built for coastal cruising. Clipper Cruise Line and Cruise West previously operated the ship. Travel Dynamics provides the same inclusive features, except for the open bar, as on their all-suite ships. The in 2013. She was built in Italy in 1990 as the Renaissance IV, and can accommodate 100 guests in 50 suites that, as described in our story, are truly luxurious. The public areas are comfortable and spacious to provide a truly deluxe cruise experience. Everything on board, including the food and program, is top-notch. The inclusive nature of the cruise—excursions, bar, transfers, taxes— provide good value for a high-end cruise product. The ship will initiate the “Into Africa” program January 14, 2013 sailing from Malaga down the West Coast of Africa to Cape Town. Guests may sail for 19 days to Accra, Ghana; 20 days from Accra to Cape Town; or opt for the entire 36-day “Grand Voyage.” Fares are from $14,995 and free round-trip air from New York is being offered along with no single supplement in select cabins. Contact TravLtips for details on any Travel Dynamics program—winter programs in Africa or Belize, summer in the Mediterranean and 2013 Great Lakes and East Coast voyages: 800-872-8584 or e-mail cruises@travltips.com. Experience the clean, fresh Norwegian air and the magic of the Midnight Sun! Hurtigruten takes you closer to The Real Norway. . . Hurtigruten— the best way to experience the Norwegian coast! Save up to 30% in 2012...2013 Now Available! Hurtigruten’s unique upscale cruises along Norway’s majestic, rugged coast and through its magnificent fjords, known as the “World’s Most Beautiful Voyage,” are legendary. Live the legend aboard one of their 12-day voyages visiting 34 inviting ports of call. Revel in once-in-a-lifetime sightseeing, sailing and soft adventure in amazing destinations across Norway. *Special rates are cruise-only, per person, double occupancy, capacity-controlled, available only on select sailings, subject to withdrawal without notice, and cannot be combined with other offers. Restrictions apply. Valid for North American residents only. Call for brochure & details: TravLtips travltips.com 800-872-8584 TravLtips 11 IAATO Antarctica: Traveling the Safe and Environmentally Responsible Way T ravLtips members have been visiting Antarctica since the 1970s and 1980s, when pioneering expedition ships like the Lindblad Explorer, Illyria and Society Explorer took intrepid travelers to the continent. Since those early days—when the total number of visitors amounted to just a few hundred a year—tourism has increased steadily, with more ships of all shapes and sizes, more departures and more than 46,000 visitors during the 2007-08 season alone. This number has decreased since then, to about 33,800 during the 2010-11 austral summer, mostly the result of the worldwide economic recession. And it fell even further for the most recent 2011-12 season, to 26,500 visitors. This latest decline was due to new maritime regulations prohibiting a type of fuel commonly used by larger cruise ships. More on that in a moment, but it should be said that in spite of fewer visitors recently, international demand to see Antarctica, the amazing wildlife and pristine landscapes that it offers, remains very strong. Americans continue to represent the lion’s share of visitors with nearly 9,000—about a third of the total— for the 2011-12 season. Australia took the number two spot, sending 2,900 travelers, or about 11%, compared with third place Germany with 2,300 (8.75%). Interestingly, China sent nearly 1,200 travelers last season, continuing the skyrocketing increase for this nationality over the past few years, and their citizens are expected to come in increasing numbers in the decades ahead. Economic concerns and nationalities aside, many visitors also wonder about the impact of tourism on Antarctic wildlife, how climate change is modifying the continent’s icescape, and whether regulations could make visiting Antarctica more difficult and more expensive. Fortunately, there is good news to report on most of these fronts. To date, there is no clear evidence that tourism is causing harm to the Antarctic environment. One of the primary reasons for this is a strong, self-regulating organization of Antarctica tour operators called IAATO. The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators began in 1991, when seven private tour companies joined together to practice and promote the highest possible standards of travel in this remote, wild and delicate region of the world. The overall governance of Antarctica, including tourism issues, lies within the power of the Antarctic Treaty, which was signed in 1959. The treaty, which formally designated Antarctica as “a natural reserve, devoted to peace and science,” now has 48 par- By Steve Wellmeier with each other so that not more than one vessel is at a landing site at any one time; that no more than 100 passengers are ashore at a landing site at any one time; and that a 1:20 guide-to-passenger ratio be maintained while ashore. And speaking of landing sites, IAATO has worked closely in recent years with the treaty parties to develop specific guidelines, with the 20 most frequented Antarctic sites now detailed. These guidelines are an important component of the IAATO Field Operations Manual, which all IAATO member-companies use at the Antarctic Peninsula, where 95% of tourism is focused. The guidelines ensure that expedition staffs are familiar with the idiosyncrasies of each place, the nesting areas, best spots for landing Zodiacs, or where dangerous crevices in the snow might be likely. IAATO’s role as an educator of best practices with its member companies carries over to the passengers themselves. IAATO has produced a new pamphlet, Steve Wellmeier enjoys a view of Paradise Bay above the Almirante Brown Station. “Don’t Pack a Pest,” meant to inform visitors about the dangers of introducing non-native species. These ties, 28 of which have consultative (or voting) status. Tourism can include insects, algae, seeds or even microbes that might be is a legitimate activity under the Antarctic Treaty, and its Envi- lurking in a bit of mud on the bottom of your wellington boots. ronmental Protocol—which was agreed to about the same time For a look at the pamphlet (just four languages so far), go to http:// that IAATO was founded—sets further standards for all human www.iaato.org/do_not_pack_a_pest.html. Surprisingly, recent activities, ensuring that they are planned and conducted in such studies have found that the potential for introducing non-native a way that limits adverse impacts. species appears to be a consideration with national program perIn 1994, the first of the visitor and tour operator guidelines sonnel at the scientific bases as much as with tourism, if not more. were introduced at the 18th Antarctic Treaty Consultative MeetClimate change, the result of human activity worldwide more so ing (ATCM), and subsequently adopted as Recommendation than in Antarctica, is something of a trickier matter. IAATO and XVIII-1. These were based on the IAATO Code of Conduct, and its member companies recognize that this is a significant threat to indicated a start in the collaborative effort between governments, the Antarctic environment and are moving forward to raise awarethe industry and environmental organizations to ensure good ness, motivate behavioral change and inspire others on this issue. regulation and management of Antarctic tourism. You can find This includes a recent collaboration with the Scientific Committee these recommendations (in nine languages!) at http://www.iaato. on Antarctic Research (SCAR) to produce an informational pamorg/visitors.html. phlet for travelers, “Climate Change in Antarctica—UnderstandIn 2009, the treaty parties codified Measure 15, which again ing the Facts.” For those interested in this topic, the pamphlet also was based on prescripts developed by IAATO and followed by its can be downloaded from the IAATO website: http://www.iaato. members for the ten prior years. This measure is a legally binding org/info.html. More needs to be done, so a working group of IAArequirement that tour operators refrain from making any land- TO members is undertaking a survey to develop baseline carbon ings in Antarctica from vessels carrying more than 500 passen- footprint information for analysis and possible future use in draftgers. The same measure requires that tour operators coordinate ing mitigation measures and guidelines for tour vessel operators. Finally, will future regulations make if even more difficult to visit Antarctica in the decades ahead? This is difficult to say, as the industry, governments and maritime bodies such as the International Maritime Organization (IMO) work together to ensure safety and minimize the potential for environmental damage. A new regulation came into affect in August 2011, for example, which prohibits the use and carriage of heavy fuel oil (HFO) in Antarctic waters. While the majority of traditional expedition vessels will not be significantly affected, large 500-plus passenger vessels—such as those operated by Princess Cruises, Oceania and Regent Seven Seas— are expected to withdraw from the marketplace, at least for the short term. Holland America, Celebrity and Azamara continue to operate to Antarctica, complying with the new fuel regulation. It should be pointed out that these vessels do not offer landings while in Antarctic waters, and instead provide a “cruise-only” type of experience, which is enjoyed by thousands of travelers annually. Similarly, IMO is currently deliberating revisions to the Polar Code, which could limit ship-based tourism in the Arctic and Antarctic alike. Ship owners and Antarctic tour operators are watching these discussions carefully, as the Polar Code could potentially dictate the types of passenger vessels that are suitable for operating in ice-covered waters, based on factors such as ice class, the experience of the bridge team, seasonal and geographic operation of the vessel and so forth. However, it is important to put all of these issues in perspective, with the expectation that factual evidence and pragmatism will prevail. Tourism will continue to be a driving force in Antarctic conservation in the years ahead. Firsthand travel experiences foster education and a better understanding of the destination; no one knows that better than TravLtips members! p Steve Wellmeier is the administrative director of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), based in Providence, RI. Total membership in IAATO stands at 106 companies and organizations around the world. IAATO now represents all SOLAS passenger vessels operating in Antarctic waters. Steve previously worked in marketing at Clipper Cruise Line, INTRAV, Elegant Cruises and TravLtips, and spent two years following 9/11 as a public affairs liaison with FEMA in New York City. For more information on IAATO’s mission of safe and environmentally responsible private-sector travel to the Antarctic, visit www.iaato.org. Contact TravLtips for assistance in arranging a voyage to Antartica. Our reservation staff can advise you the current offers and make suggestions on the best experience for you, either a small ship, expedition voyage or a cruise-by on a larger vessel. Call 800-872-8584 or email cruises@travltips.com. 12 Summer 2012 Freighter Listing The listings below represent the majority of reliable passenger-carrying freighters departing from North American ports and select foreign departures. The ports are "typical": all itineraries are contingent on cargo. No two sailings are identical and ports of call and length of voyage are never guaranteed. Fares, unless otherwise noted, are in U.S. dollars, per person, double occupancy and are subject to change. Vessels are fully containerized unless otherwise indicated. Rates on many freighters listed are subject to foreign currency fluctuations. For more details on any service, contact the TravLtips Reservation Office, P.O. Box 580188, Flushing, N.Y. 11358. Toll Free (800) 872-8584. Fax: (718) 224-3247. E-mail: cruises@travltips.com. We are not responsible for errors, omissions, fare or schedule changes. For interim updates in this listing, or to download information/rate sheets, visit our website at: www.travltips.com Euro-Based Fares Please Note: The euro fluctuates daily against the dollar. Most fares in this listing are based on a conversion of €1.00 = US$1.50. We will be able to quote a lower fare due to recent currency fluctuations on many of these listings. However, euro-based fares are subject to change at any time.The actual US$ fare will be based on the exchange rate at the time the currency is purchased. Any decrease in the fare at time of ticketing from that quoted will be refunded; any increase will be collected. Contact TravLtips for a current quote. AFRICA Grimaldi—Roll-on/roll-off vessels depart Hamburg, Germany; Amsterdam, Holland; Tilbury, England and Antwerp, Belgium for West Africa, usually Abidjan, Ivory Coast; Cotonou, Benin; Lagos, Nigeria; and sometimes Tema, Ghana or Dakar, Senegal. About 34 days. 12 passengers. Age limit: 85. About $2,706$5,255 double; $3,746-$7,883 single. (Note: lowest fares are inside cabins with upper/lower berths.) Fares are Euro-based. NORTHERN EUROPE NSB (AEE Service)—Hyundai Tianjin departs New York for Charleston, SC; Manzinillo, Panama; Charleston (2nd call); New York (2nd call); Rotterdam, Holland; Bremerhaven, Germany; Felixstowe, UK; returning to New York. About 35 days. 7 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $4,725-$4,988 double; $5,512-$5,775 single. Fares are Euro-based. Segments available. Polish Steamship Co. (PZM)—Bulk carriers from Amsterdam (IJmuiden), Holland to Cleveland, OH; Burns Harbor, IN; Thunder Bay, ON; or Duluth, MN or other Great Lakes port; returning to Europe via a “tramp” route. 6 passengers, April through November. Age limit: 79. Europe to Great Lakes, about 12-14 days, IJmuiden to Cleveland, $1,560-$1,675 double; $1,560-$2,260 single; about 16-21 days, IJmuiden to Burns Harbor, $1,790-$1,905 double; $1,790-$2,575 single. Great Lakes to Europe (tramp route), about 25-30 days, $2,250-$2,370 double; $2,250-$3,435 single. Port taxes $120 add’l. on transatlantic routes. Tramp/Transatlantic Round Trip from Great Lakes or Europe, about 45-70 days, $5,995-$6,300 double; $5,995-$9,450 single. Eastbound tramp destinations not known in advance (could be ports in Mediterranean, North Africa, Black Sea, Baltic, Continental Europe, or elsewhere). Passengers must have the utmost flexibility. Fares based on 60 days; refund made if shorter, extra if longer. Port taxes $285 additional. CMA CGM—(Pacific Express). CMA CGM Blue Whale, Florida, Georgia, Swordfish and Tarpon depart Houston for Mobile, AL; Miami & Jacksonville, FL; Panama Canal transit; Vostochny, Russia; Xiamen, Hong Kong, Chiwan & Shanghai, China; Pusan, So. Korea; Panama Canal transit; Manzanillo, Panama; returning to Houston. About 77 days. 6 passengers. Age limit: 75. About $11,400 double; $13,680 single. One-way segments may be available. Fares are Euro-based. Compagnie Polynesienne de Transport Maritime—200passenger cargoliner Aranui 3 departs Papeete, Tahiti for the Marquesas and Tuamotu Islands. About 14 days. No age limit. $3,827-$5,594 double. Single add 50%. Class C dorm-style accommodations with shared facilities, $2,234. (Reduction for past Aranui passengers-excluding Class C-dorm style.) Packages available, including air from LAX, hotel and cruise. Add minimum of $226 for taxes. 2013 fares slightly higher. Be Flexible! Freighters are working ships: Duration, ports and schedule are subject to change. Remember that the key to enjoying this mode of travel is: flexibility. The Freighter Listing is intended only as a guide. The information in these listings is accurate to the best of our knowledge, but is subject to change at any time. We reserve the right to make corrections. Visit our Web site for new or revised freighter listings and PDF documents with more details on many of the services listed: www.travltips.com NSB—REVISED. Hanjin Boston, Baltimore, Miami, Yantian & Dallas depart Long Beach for Oakland, CA; Pusan & Kwangyang, South Korea; Kaohsiung, Taiwan; Yantian, Shekou, & Shanghai, China; Pusan (2nd call); returning to Long Beach. About 42 days. 10 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $5,355-$5,985 double; $5,355-$6,930 single. Add about $381 taxes/deviation insurance/ fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. Reederei F. Laeisz—NEW LISTING. Hanjin Phoenix departs New York for Norfolk, VA; Charleston, SC; Antwerp, Belguim; Bremerhaven, Germany; Rotterdam, Holland; Le Havre, France; returning to New York. About 28 days. 4 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $3,360 double; $3,570 single. Taxes/deviation insurance/ fees are additional. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. NSB—Hanjin Geneva departs Seattle for Portland, OR; Vancouver, BC; Seattle (2nd call); Pusan & Kwangyang, South Korea; Qingdao, Ningpo & Shanghai, China; Pusan (2nd call); Prince Rupert, BC; returning to Seattle. About 42 days. 5 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $5,670 double; $5,355-$6,615 single. Add about $381 taxes/deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. FAR EAST • PACIFIC • AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND CMA CGM—CMA CGM Vivaldi departs Long beach for Oakland, CA; Tianjin Xingang; Dalian, Qingdao, Shanghai; returning to Long Beach. About 42 days. 7 passengers. Age limit: 75. About $6,300 double & single. Fares are Euro-based. NSB—MV Pacific Link and CMA CGM Hugo depart Los Angeles for Oakland, CA; Xingang, Dalian, Qingdao & Shanghai, China; returning to Los Angeles. About 40 days. 10 passengers. Age limit: 79. About; $5,100-$5,700 double; $5,100-$6,600 single. Add about $368 taxes/deviation insurance/ fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. CMA CGM (Columbus Loop)—CMA CGM Figaro & La Scala depart New York for Norfolk, VA; Savannah, GA; Suez Canal transit; Tanjung Pelepas, Malaysia; Hong Kong; Yantian & Shanghai, China; Pusan, So. Korea; Seattle, WA, Vancouver, BC; Yokohama, Japan; Shanghai (2nd call) & Ningbo, China; Hong Kong (2nd call); Yantian (2nd call), China; Tanjung Pelepas (2nd call); Suez Canal transit; returning to New York. About 105 days. 7 passengers. Age limit: 75. About $15,600 double; $17,160 single. Fares are Euro-based. Segments available: NY-Seattle, about 55 days; Seattle-NY, about 50 days. NSB—REVISED. MS Ever Champion, and Ital Contessa depart Los Angeles for Oakland, CA; Taipei, Taiwan; Xiamen, Hong Kong & Yantian, China; returning to Los Angeles. About 35days. 5 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $4,988 double; $4,725-$5,775 single. Add about $368 taxes/deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments available. CMA CGM—CMA CGM Matisse, Utrillo, & Manet depart New York for Savannah, GA; Kingston, Jamaica; Manzanillo, Panama; Panama Canal transit; Papeete, Tahiti; Lautoka, Fiji; Noumea, New Caledonia; Sydney & Melbourne, Australia; Tauranga & Napier, New Zealand; Panama Canal transit; Manzanillo, Panama (2nd call); Kingston (2nd call); Savannah, GA (2nd call); returning to Philadelphia, PA. About 63 days. 6 passengers. Age limit: 75. About $10,395 double; $11,340 single. Route continues to Europe: Tilbury, UK; Rotterdam, The Netherlands; Dunkirk & Le Havre, France; returning to New York. About 84 days, NY-Australia-Europe-NY. About $13,860 double; $15,120 single. Segments possible. Fares are Euro-based. NSB—REVISED. Hanjin Ottawa & Madrid depart New York for Norfolk, VA; Savannah, GA; Suez Canal transit; Singapore; Baria Vung Tau, Vietnam; Shekou, Hong Kong & Yantian, China; Singapore; Suez Canal transit; returning to New York. About 70 days. 5 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $9,450 double; $8,925-$11,025 single. Add about $368 taxes/deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. NSB— REVISED. Zim Ontario departs Savannah for Charleston, SC; Kingston, Jamaica; Colon, Panama; Panama Canal transit; Pusan, South Korea; Shanghai, Xiamen, Shenzhen, Hong Kong & Yantian, China; Panama Canal transit; Colon (2nd call); Kingston (2nd call); returning to Savannah. About 63 days. 6 passengers. Age limit 79. About $8,505$8,978 double; $9,923-$10,395 single. Add about $368 taxes/ deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments available. NSB—NEW LISTING. Zim San Francisco departs New York for Norfolk, VA; Savannah, GA; Miami, FL; Panama Canal transit; Kaohsiung, Taiwan; Shekou & Hong Kong, China; Panama Canal transit; returning to New York. About 63 days. 6 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $7,655-$8,080 double; $8,930-$9,355 single. Add about $368 taxes/deviation insurance/ fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. Reederei F. Laeisz—NEW LISTING. Hanjin Haiphong departs Vancouver for Seattle, WA; Pusan and Kwangyang, S. Korea; Qingdao, Ningbo and Shanghai (Yangshan), China; Pusan (2nd call); Prince Rupert, BC; Seattle (2nd call); Portland, OR; returning to Vancouver. About 42 days. 8 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $5,040 double; $5,355 single. Add about $357 taxes/deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. Reederei F. Laeisz—REVISED. Hanjin Praha & Philadelphia depart Long Beach for Oakland, CA; Tokyo & Osaka, Japan; Shanghai, China; Kwangyang and Pusan, S. Korea; returning to Long Beach. About 35 days. 4 passengers. Age limit 79. About $4,200 double; $4,463 single. Add about $357 taxes/deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments may be available. Tom Wörden—mv Cap Tapaga departs Long Beach for Oakland, CA; Papeete, Tahiti; Apia, Western Samoa; Pago Pago, American Samoa; returning to Long Beach. About 30 days. 4 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $4,725-$5,400 double; $5,265-$6,300 single. Add $395 taxes/deviation ins./fees. Fares are Euro-based. MEDITERRANEAN CMA CGM (Amerigo Express)—CMA CGM Coral & Jamaica depart from New York for Norfolk, VA; Savannah, GA; Algeciras, Spain; Malta; Livorno & Genoa, Italy; Fos sur Mer, France; Barcelona, Valencia & Malaga, Spain; returning to New York. About 42 days. 6-7 passengers. Age limit: 75. About $6,930 double; $7,560 single. Fares Euro-based. Segments available. Grimaldi—Roll-on/roll-off vessels depart Southampton, England for Flushing, Netherlands; Hamburg, Germany (sometimes); Antwerp, Belgium; Bristol/Portbury, England; Setubal, Portugal; Valencia, Spain; Livorno, Civitavecchia & Salerno, Italy; Piraeus, Greece; (possibly one of: Alexandria, Egypt; Beirut, Lebanon; Tartous & Lattakia, Syria; or Mersin, Turkey); Gemlik & Yeniköy, Turkey; Salerno (2nd call); Valencia (2nd call); returning to Southampton. About 28 days. 4-8 passengers. Age limit: 85. About $3,321 double; $4,233 single. Fares are Euro-based. Grimaldi—Roll-on/roll-off vessels depart Southampton, England for Salerno, Italy; Piraeus, Greece; Izmir, Turkey; Alexandria, Egypt; Limassol, Cyprus; Ashdod, Israel; Salerno (2nd call) & Savona, Italy; Setubal, Portugal; Bristol/Portbury, England; Cork, Ireland; Esbjerg, Denmark; Wallhamn, Sweden; Antwerp, Belgium; returning to Southampton. About 35 days. 9-10 passengers. Age limit: 85. Grande Class “A” Vessels: About $2,576-$5,151 double; $4,142-$7,725 single. Grande Class “C” Vessels: About $3,282-$5,151 double; $4,293$7,725 single. Fares are Euro-based. NSB—Hanjin Palermo departs Montreal for Algeciras & Valencia, Spain; Cagliari (Sardinia), Salerno, Leghorn & Genoa, Italy; Fos sur Mer, France; Algeciras (2nd call); Lisbon, Portugal; returning to Montreal. About 35 days. 8 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $4,462-$4,725 double; $4,200-$5,512 single. Add about $368 taxes/ deviation insurance/fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments available. NSB—MSC Monterey departs Boston & New York, for Baltimore, MD; Norfolk, VA; Savannah GA; Charleston, SC; to Valencia, Spain; Gioia Tauro, Naples, Leghorn & La Spezia, Italy; Valencia, Spain returning to Boston & New York. About 42 days. 6 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $5,670-$5,985 double; $6,615-$6,930 single. Add about $368 taxes/deviation insurance/ fees. Fares are Euro-based. Segments available. SOUTH AMERICA & CARIBBEAN Grimaldi—REVISED. Roll-on/roll-off vessels depart Hamburg, Germany for Tilbury, England; Antwerp, Belgium; Le Havre, France; Dakar, Senegal; Freetown, Sierra Leone*; Vitoria*, Rio de Janeiro & Santos, Brazil; Zarate* & Montevideo*, Uruguay; Paranagua*, Santos* (2nd call) & Rio de Janeiro* (2nd call), Brazil; Dakar (2nd call), Senegal; Emden, Germany; returning to Hamburg. (Ports marked * are not called every voyage; all ports subject to change.) About 52-58 days. Age limit 85. About $4,178-$7,854 double; $5,849-$11,779 single. Fares are Euro-based. NSB—NEW LISTING. Conti Elektra departs San Juan for Puerto Continued on page 14 TravLtips 13 Earn a Free Renewal of your TravLtips Membership plus a $50 Travel Credit • Members who submit accounts suitable for publication receive a free 1-year membership renewal & $25 Travel Credit. • Members whose accounts are published will be given an additional $25 Travel Credit. SEND ARTICLES TO: Managing Editor TravLtips • PO Box 580188 • Flushing NY 11358 or info@travltips.com BLOUNT Small Ship Adventures Blount offers guests the opportunity to go where the big ships cannot, in a style reminiscent of private yacht vacations of a bygone era. Locks, Legends & Fjords: Erie Canal To the Saguenay River Sept. 5 or Oct. 2, 2012 • New York to Montreal • Savings Available!** Blount 2013 Itineraries: Best of Belize: The Barrier Reef and Guatemala Tenn-Tom Waterway and Mississippi River The Gulf Coast: New Orleans to St. Petersburg Atlantic Coastal Waterways: Florida to Rhode Island Erie Canal & Great Lakes: Chicago to Rhode Island Early Booking Savings on Select 2013 Departures Available plus TravLtips Incentives!* Magical Lake Michigan Lake Michigan & Lake Superior Islands of New England Historic Northeast & Hudson River Hudson River, Erie Canal & St. Lawrence Seaway Fall Colors on the Hudson & Coastal New England Southern Antebellum: Charleston to Jacksonville TravLtips Small Ship Reservations: 800-872-8584 * New bookings, select Blount departures only. Must book by Oct. 31, 2012 for Early Booking Offer. Restrictions apply. Call for 2013 brochure. ** 2012 offer subject to withdrawal at any time. Space is limited. Natural Wonders of Latin America E mbark in Valparaiso and enjoy an overnight onboard before sailing to Puerto Montt, Puerto Chacabuco, cruising through Chilean Fjords, sailing around Cape Horn, Ushuaia, Port Stanley, Puerto Madryn and Buenos Aires where you will have an overnight onboard before disembarking. Why choose this cruise? Stunning scenery of the Chilean Fjords, up-close with wildlife on the Valdes Peninsula, glacial landscapes at the tip of South America, breathtaking beauty and diverse landscapes of Patagonia, time for sightseeing in Santiago and Buenos Aires, stimulating artistic workshops, enrichment lectures and a comprehensive guest speaker program. I enjoyed “Venice, Its Sea Empire & the Medieval World” aboard the Corinthian II in May 2012. Accommodations and service staff were excellent and the dining room was superb! —Edwyn Smith, Toledo OH Travel Dynamics Int. will operate the 114-guest, all-suite Corinthian II on a “Grand Mediterranean Journey to Shores Less Traveled” from Istanbul to Casablanca Oct. 13 - 29, 2012. The route includes Mediterranean islands and the north shore of Africa and features a classical music theme with several concerts on board and ashore. There is also a complete program of excursions and educational lectures included. TDI will operate a sister ship, Corinthian (100 guests), on various cultural explorations of Africa and the Mediterranean in 2013. Contact TravLtips for details and current offers: 800-872-8584; cruises@travltips.com. Great American Steamboat Co. The trip on the American Queen was one of the best I have ever taken. It was the first time I ever just took off alone; never knew there were so many kind and nice people. The pre-cruise hotel was great. This is a wonderful and easy way to see Middle America. Hopefully I can go up the River further in the future! —Elizabeth Disher, Solomons MD The American Queen has great facilities and the staff is upbeat and anxious to be of service. Everyone was trying to please! —Geraldine Swormstedt, Sarasota FL The Great American Steamboat Co. has brought back the former Delta Queen flagship, the grand American Queen. Voyages on the Mississippi River and its tributaries began in April 2012. A pre-cruise luxury hotel stay and shore excursions in every town and city are included features. Fall foliage specials are available. Contact TravLtips for details and current offers: 800-872-8584; cruises@travltips.com. TravLtips Our March 2012 voyage on the Prinsendam, which was excellent, was our sixth cruise booked through TravLtips. It is always a pleasure to deal with you via telephone calls. You are always prompt, very accommodating and anxious to please us. Thank you very much. —Noel & Beverly Nelson, Brookings OR Continued from page 13 Limon, Costa Rica; Manzanillo and Colon, Panama; Caucedo and Rio Haina, Dominican Rep.; returning to San Juan. About 14 days. 2 passengers. Age limit: 79. About $1,700 double; $2,268 single. Taxes/deviation insurance/fees are additional. Fares are Euro-based. NSB—MSC Geneva departs New York for Baltimore, MD; Savannah, GA; Freeport, Bahamas; Caucedo, Dominican Republic; Santos, Brazil; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Montevideo, Uruguay; Rio Grande, Navegantes, Paranagua, Santos (2nd call), Rio de Janeiro, Itapoa, Itaguai, and Suape, Brazil; Caucedo (2nd call); Freeport (2nd call); Charleston, SC; Norfolk, VA; returning to New York. About 56 days. 6 passengers. Age lmit: 79. About $7,560-$7,980 double; $8,820-$9,240 single. Add about $368 taxes/ deviation ins./fees. Fares Euro-based. Segments may be available. Reederei F. Laeisz—MS Port Said departs New York for Savannah, GA; Miami, FL; Caucedo, Dominican Republic; Santos, Navegantes, Rio de Janeiro & Vitoria, Brazil; Caucedo (2nd call); Norfolk, VA; returning to New York. About 42 days. 4 passengers. Age limit 79. About $5,355 double; $5,670 single. Add about $288 taxes/deviation ins./fees. Fares Eurobased. Segments may be available. Cruise Rates from $3299* TravLtips 800-872-8584 P.O. Box 580188, Flushing, NY 11358 e-mail: cruises@travltips.com 14 Summer 2012 Travel Dynamics We enjoyed the “Centers of Culture and Art in the Mediterranean” voyage aboard the Corinthian II. There was an interesting lecture program and the shore excursions had excellent guides and audio usage. A pianist provided background music, which was pleasant at teatime and cocktail hours. We liked the all-inclusive aspect: no excursions or bar bills to pay for. We enjoy small ship cruising and the Corinthian was just the right size for us. — Margaret Brewitt, Maple Creek, Saskatchewan Reederei F. Laeisz—NEW LISTING. CSAV Pyrenees departs New York for Baltimore, MD; Savannah, GA; Freeport, Bahamas; Caucedo, Dominican Republic; Santos, Brazil; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Montevideo, Uruguay; Rio Grande, Navengantes, Santos, Rio de Janeiro and Suape, Brazil; Caucedo (2nd call); Freeport (2nd call); Charleston, SC; Norfolk, VA; returning to New York. About 53 days. 8 passengers. Age limit:79. About $6,360 double; $6,757 single. Add about $300 taxes/deviation ins./fees. Fares Euro-based. Segments may be available. Cruise around Cape Horn from Valparaiso to Buenos Aires Aboard the 550-passenger Voyager February 6 – 25, 2013 for 20 days *Above rate quoted in US$ per person, double occupancy for minimum available inside; single occupancy rates on request. Government taxes and air fare additional. Rates subject to change and availability. Letters to the Editor 2 Write a Story... TravLtips brings you first-hand accounts of unusual voyages, written by TravLtips members. We urge you to share your experiences with other TravLtips members after your next trip! It’s fun and your observations will help other members plan their trip. Plus, you can save up to $50 off the final payment of your next cruise booked through TravLtips and earn a one-year membership renewal to TravLtips. Published accounts are typically 2,500-5,000 words & your photos greatly enhance the story. Reederei F. Laeisz—MSC Uganda departs New York for Baltimore, MD; Savannah, GA; Freeport, Bahamas; Caucedo, Dominican Republic; Santos, Brazil; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Montevideo, Uruguay; Rio Grande, Sao Francisco, Santos, Rio de Janeiro & Suape, Brazil; Caucedo (2nd call); Freeport, (2nd call); Charleston, SC; Norfolk, VA; returning to New York. About 56 days. 8 passengers. Age limit 79. About $6,720 double; $7,140 single. Add about $300 taxes/deviation ins./fees. Fares Euro-based. Segments may be available. TravLtips Cruise Calendar The following sailings represent an updated list of promotional cruises we are currently offering or are planning for the future. Our cruise calendar is updated with each TravLtips issue, adding and deleting programs accordingly. You’ll note we have identified a few programs as “Best Buy” (BB) when we feel they deliver exceptional value and content. If you would like to receive information on any of the listed programs please contact our reservations office at 800-872-8584 or e-mail us at: cruises@travltips.com. We ask you request information for no more than four programs so that we can accommodate you more efficiently. While we may not have the promotional brochures completed for some of the later programs, we will place you on an advance mailing list for the respective information when available. Please note we attempt to publish as accurate a promotional calendar as possible, but occasionally programs will sell out or change after publication. (A listing of some upcoming promotions on small ships, expedition vessels and riverboats appears on the right side of this page.) Visit our Web Site: www.travltips.com or call 800-872-8584 TRADITIONAL CRUISE SHIPS Departure Date Cruise Program Oct 14 2012 Oct 14 Oct 15 Oct 19 Oct 19 Oct 21 Oct 22 Oct 28 Nov 02 Nov 03 Nov 04 Nov 11 Nov 18 Nov 21 Nov 27 Dec 02 Dec 04 Dec 04 Dec 05 Dec 06 Dec 08 Dec 10 Dec 17 Dec 21 Dec 27 Jan 04 2013 Jan 05 Jan 05 Jan 05 Jan 09 Jan 19 Jan 21 Jan 23 Jan 24 Feb 02 Feb 02 Feb 16 Mar 04 Mar 04 Mar 06 Mar 14 Mar 18 Apr 4 Apr 8 Apr 17 Apr 18 Apr 20 Apr 26 Canada, New England Atlantic Coast Mediterranean & Transatlantic Passage to the New World Transatlantic Autumn Vistas Atlantic & Mediterranean Adventurer Australia Circumnavigation Circle Hawaii New Zealand Discovery & Solar Eclipse Enchanted Amazon Mediterranean Medley & Classic Crossing Exotic Repositioning Venice to Mumbai Autumn Med/Transatlantic Repositioning Immersive Wine & Transatlantic Passage to Oman, Safaga to Dubai Tropical Explorations & Transcanal Southern Transatlantic, Brazil & Argentina Voyage to the Caribbean Passage to Panama Singapore & Burma Lands of Grandeur: Dubai to Cape Town Central & South America Enrichment Voyage Rendezvous to Pacific: Rio de Janeiro to Papeete Jewels of Southeast Asia & Angor Wat Holiday Combo Caribbean Ancient Legends Pacific Grand South America Discovery Grand World Voyage Imperial Splendors Cape Town to Hong Kong Grand South America Passage to Asia Combo Caribbean Bali, Bangkok & Beyond South American Explorer Kingdoms of Southeast Asia Caribbean Hideaways Circle Hawaii Combo Caribbean Ultimate Souithern Caribbean Circle Hawaii Passage to Sri Lanka & India Grand Mediterranean Mayan Mystique Route of Traders Grand Voyage French Polynesia, Hawaii & Transpacific Exotic Repositioning: Singapore to Athens Pacific Passage Grand Voyage Spring Transatlantic Repositioning Iberia & British Isles Enrichment Voyage Ship Eurodam Norwegian Epic Noordam Regatta Maasdam Volendam Oosterdam Oosterdam Regatta Riviera Azamara Journey Poesia Constellation Minerva Regatta Azamara Quest Discovery Regatta Aegean Odyssey Nautica Explorer Marina Aegean Odyssey Poesia Marina Voyager Amsterdam Nautica Prinsendam Rotterdam Poesia Aegean Odyssey Regatta Minerva Riviera Celebrity Century Poesia Riviera Celebrity Century Aegean Odyssey Prinsendam Riviera Nautica Celebrity Solstice Azamara Journey Marina Poesia Explorer • SAVE 50% off standard 2012 cruise fares!* • FREE Airfare from LA* • Select small ship past guests save add’l 5%* Singles: low supplements available! Duration 13 days 21 days (BB) 21 days (BB) 14 days 42 days (BB) 34 days (BB) 15 days 28 days 25 days 27 days 26 days (BB) 17 days (BB) 28 days (BB) 15 days (BB) 23 days 25 days 17 days 16 days 16 days 30 days 25 days (BB) 48 days 20 days 14 days 20 days 95 days 115 days 47 days 68 days 37 days 14 days (BB) 21 days 30 days 21 days 10 days 15 days 14 days (BB) 14 days 15 days 21 days 64 days 10 days 46 days 31 days 28 days (BB) 38 days 18 days (BB) 28 days (BB) SMALL SHIP & EXPEDITION LISTING Cruises aboard small-capacity vessels (capacity follows vessel name). Many emphasize natural history, wildlife, culture. Details on each program—and many more—including the special TravLtips rates, are available from our Flushing NY office at 800-872-8584. ANTARCTICA— Nov–Feb The White Continent - Lindblad Expeditions - National Geographic Explorer (148) 14 days. Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Antarctic Peninsula. Zodiac landings & lectures. Buenos Aires hotel pre-cruise. Special offers may be available. Nov–Feb Classic Expedition - Hurtigruten - Fram (318) - 10 days. Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Antarctic Peninsula. Polar-Cirkel landings & lectures. Specials may be available. CARIBBEAN & CENTRAL AMERICA— Nov 25 (BB) Panama Canal - Star Clippers - Star Flyer (170) - 21 nights. Barbados to Puerto Caldera, CR. Caribben ports and islands & parks of Panama & Costa Rica, under sail. Mar 24 (BB) 20 or 14 nights, Puerto Caldera, CR or Balboa, Panama (Mar 30) to St. Maarten. Dec 1, Jan 19Br. Virgins & Leewards - Star Clippers - Star Clipper (170) - 14 nights. Round (BB) trip St. Maarten, under sail. Dec 8, Mar 23 Windwards & Grenadines - Star Clippers - Royal Clipper (227) - 14 nights. (BB) Round trip Barbados, under sail. Dec 9*, Panama, Costa Rica & Nicaragua - Star Clippers - Star Flyer (170) - 14 nights. Jan 20, Mar 3 R/T Puerto Caldera, CR. Parks of Panama & Costa Rica, under sail. *Panama to CR Dec–Mar Sea of Cortez - Lindblad Expeditions - National Geographic Sea Bird (62) - 7 nights. Round trip La Paz. Zodiacs, kayaks & lectures. Jan-Mar Among the Great Whales, from San Carlos with Bahia Madgalena. Jan-Feb Belize & Guatemala - Travel Dynamics - Yorktown (138) - 8 days. Cruise Belize’s barrier reef, visit ancient Mayan sites and rain forests. Naturalists & lectures. EAST COAST Sep-Oct Locks, Legends & Fjords - Blount - Grand Caribe (96) 12 nights. Between New York and Montreal via Hudson River, Erie Canal, St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers. Sep 29 New England Islands & Hudson River - Travel Dynamics - Yorktown (138) - 8 days. Oct 13 Between Providence and New York. Nantucket, Martha’s Vineyard and fall foliage. EUROPE — (2012 & 2013 riverboat specials are available—call for details.) Apr–OctBurgundy by Barge - Inland Voyages - Luciole (14) - 7 days. Nivernais Canal from Auxerre to Clamecy. Sightseeing, all meals & drinks and transfers from Paris included. Oct 6 Greek Isles & Turkey - Star Clippers - Star Clipper (170) - 14 nights. Round trip (BB) Athens, under sail. Oct 13 Grand Mediterranean - Travel Dynamics - Corinthian II (114) - 15 nights. Istanbul to Casablanca via Turkey, Crete, Malta and North Africa. Classical Music Theme. ISLANDS— Year-Round Galapagos - Lindblad Expeditions - National Geographic Endeavour (96) or Islander (48) 9 nights. Includes 1 night in Guayaquil pre- and post-cruise, and 7-night cruise. Nov–Apr Hawaiian Seascapes - American Safari - Safari Explorer (36) - 7 nights. Between Maui & The Big Island via Moloka’i, & Lana’i. Bike, hike, snorkel & motor launch tour. PACIFIC NORTHWEST— Apr–Nov Columbia & Snake Rivers - American Cruise Lines - Queen of the West (120) - 7 nights. Between Portland OR and Clarkston WA. Visit Rainier, Astoria, Pendleton & more. Sept - NovPacific Northwest Passage - American Safari - Safari Quest (22) - 7 nights. Round Apr-May trip Seattle. Victoria BC, Princess Louisa Inlet, San Juan Islands & more. TravLtips Reservation Department - TravLtips acts only as agents in obtaining passage and accommodations on ships, airlines, hotels, etc., and is not responsible for any actions beyond its control, such as changes in schedules, rates, ports, etc., and all funds sent to TravLtips as a deposit or in full payment of passage and accommodations are accepted by TravLtips only as agents, and TravLtips responsibility for same ceases with the transfer of the funds to the shipping company or airline involved. Passage to the New World Discover the soul of the South Pacific aboard m/s Paul Gauguin The m/s Paul Gauguin was designed specifically to sail the shallow seas of French Polynesia, visiting small ports that larger ships can’t reach and blending into the stunning natural beauty of the South Seas. She offers an extension of the informal, relaxing environment of the islands, coupled with five-star service, comfort and luxury for only 332 guests. Spacious suites and staterooms (70% with private balconies), an onboard water sports marina, a choice of three open-seating dining venues and an extensive spa are among her luxurious attributes. The atmosphere aboard ship radiates warmth, informality, and Polynesian flair. Extra 5% Savings for Select Small Ship Past Guests Expires in 2012. Tahiti & the Society Islands Take advantage of this great offer! 7 Nights Fares from $8,595 $4,297* Dec. 15 Fares from $9,195 $4,597* Oct. 6, 13 & 20 Fares from $9,395 $4,697* Dec. 22 & 29 Additional Savings May Be Available On Some Departures... Call for details! Marquesas, Tuamotus & Society Islands • 14 Nights From $12,395 $6,197* Dec. 1, $5,997 Society Islands & Tuamotus • 10 nights Sept. 12, $4,847 Fiji, Tonga, Cook & Society Islands 13 Nights • Oct. 27 Fares from $11,495 $5,747* 12 Nights • Nov. 20 Fares from $10,795 $5,397* New for 2013: 10 Night Hotel & Cruise Package • Jan. 2, May 8, Jul. 31, Oct. 23 *Fares are pp, dbl occ, category F, US$. All offers are for a limited time, new bookings only, capacity controlled, subject to change and may not be combinable with other offers. Select past guest savings for 2012 only. Autumn Mediterranean & Transatlantic aboard the elegant Noordam Civitavecchia to Ft. Lauderdale October 15-November 5, 2012 for 21 days The “Passage to the New World” is a 21-day autumn repositioning voyage that delivers real value on an elegant premium passenger cruise ship. You will visit $1999 select destinations in the Western Mediterranean including two days in CivitaOceanview from vecchia (Rome) before finishing with a week-long, leisurely transatlantic crossing to convenient Ft. Lauderdale. Besides the attractive rates this voyage offers, you $1599 will have time at sea during your crossing to relax and explore the many facilities Inside from and features of the beautiful Noordam. You can participate in the ship’s enrichment $1399 and personal growth programs including the Culinary Arts Center, Greenhouse Spa, Digital workshops and Explorations Cafe. Noordam’s Explorations Team will host a variety of innovative events designed to be stimulating, inspiring and fun. Reserve a verandah stateroom for only $95 per day! Call us today and receive a dinner at the award-wining Pinnacle Grill restaurant onboard, compliments of TravLtips. Veranda from Above rates quoted in US$ per person, double occupancy; single occupancy on request. Government taxes $158 additional. Air fare extra. Rates subject to change and availability. TravLtips 800-872-8584 P.O. Box 580188 • Flushing, NY 11358 • e-mail: cruises@travltips.com TravLtips • 800-872-8584 TravLtips 15 Tall Ship Sailing Adventures from STAR CLIPPERS TravLTips Members Save up to 60% Off Brochure! 14-night Caribbean aboard ROYAL CLIPPER Windward Islands and Grenadine Islands aboard Royal Clipper, round trip Barbados, December 8, 2012 & March 23, 2013 for 14 nights. Sail from Bridgetown, Barbados with calls at St. Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, St. Kitts, Iles des Saintes, Martinique, Grenadines, Grenada, Tobago Cays, St. Vincent, Bequia and St. Lucia.12/8/12 TravLtips cruise only fares from $2,770* per person. 3/23/13 TravLtips cruise only fares from $2,886* per person. 14-night Caribbean aboard STAR CLIPPER Leeward Islands and British Virgins aboard Star Clipper, round trip St. Maarten, Dec 1, 2012 & January 19, 2013 for 14 nights. Sail from Philipsburg, St. Maarten with calls at Nevis, Dominica, Iles de Saintes, Guadeloupe, Antigua, St. Barts, Anguilla, Virgin Gorda, Norman Island, Tortola, Jost van Dyke and St. Kitts. TravLtips cruise only fares from $2,690* per person. 14-night Costa Rica, Panama & Nicaragua aboard STAR FLYER Explore Balboa, Panama to Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica December 9, 2012 & January 20, 2013† for 14 nights. Calls are Isla Gamez, Golfito, Drake Bay, Quepos, Curu Ntl. Reserve, San Juan del Sur, Playa del Coco, Santa Rosa Ntl. Park, Flamingo Beach and Isla Tortugas. †Round trip Caldera. TravLtips cruise only fares from $2,690* per person. Immerse yourself in a journey where the wind charts your course and an authentic tall ship adventure awaits. Climb the mast for a better view of the horizon or simply relax in the net suspended over the bow with nothing but crystalline waters below. The mega-yacht sailing experience makes a Star Clippers cruise feel more like an intimate vacation with your closest friends to hidden harbors and destinations untouched by the larger ships. No long lines on board, no crowds, just pampering services in a casually elegant atmosphere. See details on the itineraries and ships: www.travltips.com Call for details and reservations: 800-872-8584 *Cruise Only Rate per person double for Category 6 cabin. Offer available in Cat. 2 thru 6 only. Call for single rates. Air fare, air tax, transfers additional. Port Charges of $450 pp included. Offer available only to residents of U.S.A., Canada & Latin America. Ships Registry: Malta. Other Restrictions Apply. Travltips_STARCLIPPERS_JULY2012_AD.indd 1 5/15/12 4:17 PM