Why Colin Fletcher walks_Backpacker July88

lllilllffillililililllltilill
VOLUME16
NUMBER
4
ISSUE87
JULY 1988
FMTT]R6
28
WHY COLIN FTETCHERVALI(S
The author of the backpackcr's biblc h:r-ssome advice: take a h:'Jrre.B1tMa*Janhbs
GETTING YOUR @AT
Md goat-sto the list of prrc* srimals \lru cln take up ttre trail. B1tFrandeetobnwn
40
THE WORLD BETWEEN TIIE WAVES
rou spend more time paddling than walking.
ln the land of the crihxx.
34
ByJefr Ranl&
PORTFOLIO: RICHARD IIAMILTON SMITH
,
:
6
Talie narural light, add water and patience, and you ha',e one-of-a-kind
phuc4raphs. B1t Daoe Gebbell
DOORWAY TO TIIE SPIRIT WORLD
There's a place in Arizona where vour hiking companions are out of this wodd.
By Cbarles Nlchens
T
54
I
e
I
I
tr
PAGE48
II\NKEEPERS TO THE WEARY
To hikers on the,{ppalachian Trail, this stoporer is lust like home. By Clndy
60
Ra*s
DEPARTMENTS
BACKCOLINTRf
Introductions, assumptionsand commitments.
6
LETTERS
FOOTNOTES
Bhsdng birdhouses;savingwolres with semantics;using
a ladder to solo Mt. McKinlgvin winter; giving birth to a trail.
AI
Caught unprepared in the wilds? You might har.e a gu>d time,
LARGE
GEOSPItrRE
BODY
5
when it comesto narure.all creaturesharc a mean streak.
H'NGUAGE
Don't let your thirst get the best of you
1.0
16
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9
24
PAGEi{
BEHIhID
Tm
WILDERI\ESS
WEEKEIYD
GETTING
STARIED
OUTFITTING
JUST
HEARD
BACICALK
I.A,BEL \?hv are equipmentmakersgivingawayprofits?
e phce in Illinois with hidden canvons.
How to climb up rocks,and whv vou'd want to.
uant to be chic in camo?rVear*ris tent. PlusDacks.
Rcxli clinrbing srgalsthe 1988 SIA show
Tc=s errn our nxl.r tl-erlers fieldtesters won't trv
26
6s
73
78
81.
88
COVER:Photoby TedStreshinsky
Brcxprcxen,includingWTLDERT€sS
C^rf,rrc and B^c{mcr<enFmnores (ISSN 0277-876X).Volume 16, Number 4, lssue 87, July 1988. Becxpro<enrs p.JUishedbi'
npnthly by Rodale ftess, Inc., 33 E. MiDr St.. Emrnaus. PA 18098. Subscriptixls are $18 per )rear (six issu€s) in the U.S., $21 in Canada. S23 etssYhere. S€s|+
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dass postage paid at Emmaus, PA, and at ditiI|al
information abort yutr subscriptix|, ffile to: B^o(p^o(ea.iXl E. Mirpr St., Emnnus, PA 18098. Please allor eight urceks for charpe ol aclclress lnclrb old address,
as wsll as new, enclosing an address hbel ftorn a rec€rd is$e il possible.
BackpackerlJuft 1988 3
had to sweet-talk my way through
two secretariesjust to harrehis New
York editor sa,v,"I doubt very much
that he'd be interested,"and refuse
to give me his telephone number. Perturbed and verging on misanthropic,I
kept the editor on the line explaining,
complaining,lying and generallymaking
a fuss.
"I had bener admit right away that
walking can in the end become an addiction, and that it is then as deadly in its
fashion as heroin or television or the
stock exchange. But even in this final
stage it remains a quite delectable madness, very good for saniry and I recommend it with passion."
A whole generation of wildemess walkers grew up on those words.
Fletcher had been at his computer
screen when I arrived. Although a self-acknon'ledged "solitary son-of-a-bitch," he
still had invited me out to his home for a
qeekend of *alking and talking about
*alking. Accordinglr,, not more than an
hour after I arrired, Fletcher suggested
we take a *alk. "Gets the luices flowing."
He donned a pair of ruggd, baggl'shorts,
slipped into some light hiking shoes,
locked the door behind him, and led off
uphill into a warm, pastel California
o,ening.
"Everv day that I don't play tennis I try
to walk up the hill behind my house. At a
brisk pace, it's a 40-minute iaunt. Preferably, I walk up the hill or plav tennis six
out of soren days a week-unless, of
course, I'm backpacking. For reallv gening
in shape, walking uphill is erccellent."
Once in a blue moon, pigheadedness
pays off. A week later I lifted the phone
and heard a deep voice say in an English
accent. "Hello. this is Colin Fletcher."
Success.
A month later I was in a red Nissan
rental, wiggling through the remote red
hills of northern California in search of a
mailbox with a decoy name on it. Considering Colin Fletcher's need for pri q', it
should come as no surprise that he tries
to hide his whereabouts with an alias.
lfhat was surprising was that I passed
by his place three times before geaing
it right.
The house behind the mailbox was
perched on a steep slope hidden in high
grass, flowers and trees. A solid, gra.vbearded man wearing black horn-rimmed
glasses opened the door, smiled, shook
my hand vigorouslv and immediately
dragged me off to his office. Colin
Fletcher was writing.
That's what he does. That's what he's
known for. It has been exactlv two decades since the debut of Tbe Complete
Valker, a classic that critics harc since referred to as the backpacker's bible. Then
C2rneTbe Nau Complete Valker, and four
vears ago, Tbe Complete \Valker III. The
first paragraph ofeach rersion is identical:
letcher doesn't look like ttre kind
of man who needs to get in
shape. At 65, his gait is rhythmic,
his legs heavily muscled, and
gaugingfrom the length and quicknessof
his stride,his lungs must be accustomed
to exertion. B,v fate or function, Colin
Fletcherhasbeenwalking,in someform
or another, since he can remember,
W
Corw FTnTcHER
k
1
I
U
p
Becauseit's a delectable madness
that's good for sanity.
6
ts
9
d
BY MARK
JENKINS
BackpackerlJuly 1988 29
Hlecflng on hlc loumey durlng |tte
t963 wolk, Colln Fleilchergpzesdo$rn
lhe Grund Coryon. Herrc fh€tlrst to
nolk lls lengilhbelow llre rlm.
"'Vhen I was a kid I knerr that the universe was created for bovs to fish in. .\rd
fishing, trout fishing an\s'a\', inlolres gctting ttrere-walking." That sr'.rsrr-rEngland
before the war. Then came six rears in the
service doing a rather differcnt kir.rd of
walking, usualll *'ith a hcan pack. "And
vou'd think that mruld cure me, but it
didnt."
After V'orld \\ar ll. Fletcher moved to
Africa. He farmed for several vears in
Kenra. then sent south to supervise the
constnrclion of a road in what is now Zimbabne. Then it sas back up to the Nonhern Henrisphere where he spent a couple
of vears in Canada, ostensibll' as a prospector, *alking through woods. "Somethir.rgclose to backpackng," he recalls.
It nas in ttre late 1950s,when the wcrrd
"backpacking" was unrecognizable to
most Americans, that Fletcher made his
first long walk. "I was regarded as cran'. I
ttrink initiallr', I thought of *alking up ttre
coast. But the idea evolved into walking
up California, taking the forcst number of
steps on blacktc-lp.I can remember the
first road I crossed. I tcrck as few big steps
across it as I could. That's an artificial sort
of thing, but it has its place in the evolution because it pushed me to take the
route I took." It was a route that hugged
the Colorado River from where it entered
Nlexico, crossed the lrlojave Desert and
Death Vallev,rode the spine of the Sierra
northward until it ran out, then marched
200 miles through sagebrush countn to
Oregon.
ut of that walk came The
Tltousand-Mile 9tmmer, and
a char.rgedColin Fletcher. "After that. immediatelv after
that, I would go up rwo davs, a dar', a
v,eek backpacking. It beczmre a method of
operation." ln 1963, Fletcher walked
down into the labr-rinth of the Grand Canvon, alone. Two months later he emerged
at the other end, becoming the first person known to have walked the length of
the Grand Canvon below the rim. The enValked
suing book, Tbe Man Wo
Tbrougb Time, has become another classic in wilderness writing.
A generation later, Fletcher is still walking, still backpacking and still writin€l
ab<.rutit. "The man who walked through
time" has done just that. Backpacking for
Fletcher has not been a fad, a pastime, or
even a spon. "For me, I must sav it is almost a way of life."
Drv leaves crackle underf<x,rt as eur
trail contours through patches of brown
scrub brush. The sun has iust slid from
N
Jull' |988/Backpacker
sight. The rich orange hue that has stained
the landscape for the past half hour begins to drain awal'.Our conrcrsation turns
to meaning, reasons, and motives for
ualking.
"Sometimes it's iust the sheer challenge of doing it. The degree of phvsical
challenge changes trip to trip. Iook, psvcholog' npes miss the point br- calling
such things masochistic or some such
thing. Tisnt like that at all, is it? It's just a
nice challenge. You get out there and vou
don't knon'whether l'ou're going to amble for a couple of hours or go like hell
for three dars. RecentlvI spent firre davs in
the backcountrv', alone, iust as a matter of
course. There are times when l'ou go and
vou just need phvsical exercise.Just getting up a hill and srr,'eatingis awful damn
nice."
I notice our pace, although moderate,
has raised beads of perspiration on mr'
forehead. The hill we're walking isn't reallr a hill. but therr it's not quite a nlour)tain either. Something in between. The
path winds beneath arching black cclnor.rwoods, then abruptlv steepens. I feel the
faintest drop in temperature. The clouds
have vanished. Conversation lags, and mv
mind begins to wander. A footr-rotefrom
Tlc Complete Valker 111comes to mind:
"Fletcheritis is a recurring and scurq'
condition (wpicalh; a horrendous slump
with variel;atedsvmpton-rs,uniformlv exhausting and dire, or semi-dire) that
oozes into existenceat such momertts of
crisis as the onset of a nor b<nk. A different d(rctor, whom I had acquainted with
the correct medical terminolotrp', once
tdld another patient,'Hmm, in m1'opir-rion
vou'\€ got Fletcheritis.' The patient sured,
rcund-eved. 'Nlv God, what's that?' '\t!'ell,
the wav to cure it is to go au'av and get
drunk. And if possible, laid. Then call me
tomorros/ and tell me how lou feel.' The
'You srere dead right,'
patient dulv called.
'l
he said. feel great.'"
Fletcher is defining a universal condidon: fear of a challenge.
Still pushing uphill, I quen' Fletcher
about his motilations for n'riting lbe
Complete lvalker series. He doesn't respond for a moment, nor does he break
Colin Fletcherhaswdlked npre miles
than many people hare driren. So who
better to listen to wtren it comestime
for advice?r$(rtlatfolloqr are a fenr
choice Flercherismsthat may make for
a better trek
B0OIS: 'In nery-techboots tlrc
nub question is the sole anachment's
reliability. But the answerseemsto be
*rat, beyord grossand obvious deformrty,looking will not tell 'ou much.
Other *un rely on *re maker'sreputation, all )0r can do is tl€ar &e
damnedthings and see if they hold up.
The secondcriteriqr in choosinglour
boots is fit. The *frd criterion is fit.
And the ficunh criteri<xris fit."
VALI$NG $f,AFFS:'Althoughttrc
\ast maiority of walken ne!€r elren
*rink of using a walking $aff, I unh€si'
ErinSty include it amongttre foundations of the housethat tratrclson my
back The ottrer day I uas solemnlyadvised *ut doing so is errenfurttrer out
of the mainstream*xan wh€ri I wrote
the last edition of this book OK call
me Eddy,but I still take my staffalong
almostas automaticallyas I take my
pack.lt's a third leg to me."
TIIE FIASHLIGIIT: 'After dark
)'crr must alvap kncmre<actlywhere
cadence.Therr *'ithout lcx*ing at me, he
answers."\(,':rlkingis a ntealts to an end.
It's important to be conrpetent at it so it
doesr-r'tget ir1rhe *'ar'. It s like n'pir-rgor
n'ritir-rg.\'<ru'renot particularlv interested
in beir-rga gtnd npist. It's not the aim. But
\ou'\e got to learn to do it I'ithout thinkir-rg.ther-r\ou c:ut get (nt to rvhat mafters.
''The
rhrrlrrrro[ salkirrg is ven important. You can't rvalk cfficientlv I'ithout
walkir-rgin rhrthnt. Ytru v,'on't get there.
For me, real n'alking doesr-r'rbep;in until
\()u've ntastereddtc linle things-rhrthm,
backpackir-rg
techniques. et cetera. That's
rather the poinr Of The Cctmplete
VZtlken."
ilence again. TI'rc stars are beginning t() pull tl-renrselres
out of thc
blue. Suddcnlv I'm aqare of a ccrtain ironr'. Flctcher is a solitrrrr
nalker. He prefcfs t() *alk aklte
"Listen.I harc rr'alkedsitlr
Jrcoplc I
took a 10-davqalk nith ll {ood ir':crrd.
rlto ;rt the end dccllrecl ntc :r bkxrdv
ntountairtg()at.Thxt tril) \\er'ttirnc I heve
trcasionallvg<>ncu itlr .qr()ul)\ lrrd I l'rate
it. I don't feel I nr orrr rlrcrc \\'irh a group,
I feel a-sif I'nr cut oll li ,nr slret I nent out
dterc for. u.rlkirrg\\ lri. \, ,t|tc()nc.\1)Uiust
Vvv
"To me tbe great
ualue is going out
wbqe J,ou escape
all tbe brciness
of u.ards."
drn't have the freedom to let rour mind
n-.urder.
"To me the great value is going out
q'here rou escape all the business of
q'ords. We need this balance berneen the
conceptual business of q'ords, q.hich is
dre q'orld ne live in most of the tin-re.and
the doq,n-to-eanhgritn' realin of getting
()ut into v,'hat I call the green v,'orld."
An<xher passageof Fletcher's writing
c()mes to mind, this time from a chapter
called "Vhv Walk?" that I fcrund in i"l:e
Complete Valker IIL
"Perhapsif rou fcrundit suited \ou, \ou
learned alrout solitude. Rcal solitude. Not
the kind s'idr nro or 10 <x'20 other rrms
strung up l'rerrrrrd
tl)e nt,\t trcc llolc. Not
the kir.td*'here frrr hlli thc dav vou talk
q'ith other huntans.instc:rclr>f'q'ith the
rest of the v,'orld. q'ith x>ursclf. tsut the
kir-rdwhere vou feel cheated if'rcu nteer
m()re than nvo per4tle a ncck: a bit
bruised if vou have to exchange ntore
than (me-s'ord greetings. Tl.rc kind in
q'hich vou learn about silencc and peace
aurdthc n'idcr circles.'
"Sounds like some kind of escape."I
sar',conring back to the corrrcrsation.h.r
the bluc darknessbefore thc r.r-uxrn
rises.
I can't see his face. but his hcad jcrks mv
direc-titx-r.
'Ycs,
escape is true, and ret escape has
pejorative connourtions.The suggestion is
rou're escaping fronr realin and I dor-r't
thinli vou are lt all. \ou rc cscaltingto realin: tsut it's r-rotescape in thc sense of escapism, n'hich is n'atching daitimc soaps
on telo'ision, n'l'ricl'rne all knon' gircs
\'()u cancer of the brain, and n'hich vou
n(xice I distinguish ven rnarkedlv from
watching the 49ers." A krrv, ribald laugh
COLIN FI-ETCHERON GEAR
the flashlight is. Odrcnvise, chaos.IM-v
flashlight spends dre night ir.r an easyto-feel position in onc bcdside boot.
And I used to hare a nrle tlut when it
was in intermittent use. such a; before
and during dirrner, I ncrer let go m_v
ffasp on it wi*rout puning ir in rhe
p<xket designated for the night. Vhich
p<xket depends on svhat I s-,rs searing. This rule is so stricl that I rarclr'
break it more than three or four times
a night."
FLUFFING TIIE SLEEPING BAG:
'Although
I am told that manv people
fail to do so, it seems onl-v commorr
sense that before v<,ruget into bed ar
night vou should alwals shalie rhe
sleeping bag bv *re edges, and so fluff
up the do$,n or elen smthedc fill and
suffirse it wi*r the air gxkets ttrat acnrallv keep !'ou warm. At this point in the
first edition of this book I wrore: 'One
of these nights I must trv it out.' I'm
happv to repon drat the act of writing
*lat sentence prodded me into doing
the iob fairlv regularlr: It's good to
knos'firsthand that the bJok has
aught somebodv something."
TIIE WARDROBE: "I belong, unreserrcdlli to the fusst', thermallv responsive faction. lwi*r e€rv !?riation
of effon and environment I bunon and
unbunon, unzipper and rezipper, peel
and restore and then peel again. I find
ttut in anv but frigid weather it rakes
barely a mile of walking and a side
glance of surnhine to suip me down to
hat, shorts, socks and boots. That, I
find, is *re wav to walk.'With air pl4.
ing freelv <>r€r)'our skin vou feel tq/ice
as fresh as vou did with a shin on,"
NO WARDROBE: "Noq/, nakedness
is a delightful condition, and by walking naked you garn far more than coolness. You feel an une<pected sense of
freedom from restraint. An uplifting
and almost delirious sense of simplicinr In this nor simpliciw you soon
find that vou har,e become, in a nor
and surer sense, an integral pan of the
simple, comples( world rou are walking through. And tfren you are reallv
*alking."
"PhotograNON.PHOTOGRAPIfI:
phr'. I suddenly, understood, is not reallv compatible with contemplation. Ia
details are tcxr insistent. Th.y- are alwavs buzzing around.!'our mind,
clouding the fine focus of appreciation.
You rarelv realize this painful fact at
the time, and vou cannot do much
about it ewn if vou do. But that day in
the Grand Canvon, after the qu'nera
had broken, I found mvself savoring in
a nenr'wav o,enthing around me. Instead of stopping brieflv to photograph
and forget, I stood and stared, fr,xing
truer images on the emulsion of memory. And dre q'eek, set free, became a
camiral."
GTIIDEBOOIG: "l'm sorrv nor
that, in an afiempt to be tolerant and
reasonable, I corked mv tnre feelings.
And I'm damned if I'll pus*{rnt
around anv longer. I loathe trail
guides, strong and sour from the bottom of my gul Thq'gnaw at the tapru)ts of $'hat I iudge wilderness walking (or anv kind of sane walking) to be
all about. The *trole idea, surelr', is to
cast off the coordinates of civilization.
You want to get awav from it all."
Tlreabrc werp6 mcfom The Complete Valker lll b1, Colin Fletcber,
1974,1984 $,Colin
coplrigbt @19.0€.,
Fletcber; and The New Complete
tValker, Second Edition, Raised, Enleged cnd UMated b),Colin Fletcler;
conrigbt a 1968, 1974 4, Colin
Fletclnr. R@rintedb,Frm,$iolt of Nfred e. Krcpf, Inc.,Nan,Yo*.
BackpackerlJult l9SS
3l
echoes dov"rr orrr the lower hills.
rVe've contoured around the massive,
dark, dinosaur hump of land and curled
up be,vond the trees. A bonv hook of a
moon is just freeing itself from the horizon. The red hills beloq'have turned maroon and roll like ancient qanes anav in
anery direction. Our pace has been
smooth and consistent, brisk eren though
it has been all uphill. I begin to think of
the last long mcnnlit qalk I took, the last
long moonlit ski tour,
Out of nowhere, Fletcher sa,vs,"You
know, if I've got a panicular problem to
solve. I'll walk this hill before breaKast.
To me there are two places, walking and
in the shower." A blanket of silence muffles his laughter.
The rough, rounded summit of our hill
appears ahead ofus. Not a breath ofwind.
An airv, cool blue light spills across the
landscape. That strange sense of timelessness begins to brush acrosS the slcr
Fletcher continues:
"Sometimes I come up here and
achieve nothing, except mar,be to clear
drings a linle bit. I'm not saving orery time
I come up I get a golden idea. Hell, no.
But I do find, almost always, as soon as I
get out in the green world, sometime during the day there's a moment when mv
mind's really"going.
"It's where my head goes that makes a
good walk. I come out here almost as an
antidote. I live by words, but I need the
contrast. It's iust getting the hell up here.
Getting some fresh air and gening the
blood moving. It helps my thinking. Getting up here and getting the noise out of
dre wav"
Finallv we're at the top. rVe stop and
look. Ve could be almost anlvhere. A
thin seam of red along the horizon separates blue from black. The cluster of faint
orange lights far below could easily be
tribal campfires in the Rift Valle.v, or
streetlamps in a small English village.
After a few minutes, we turn and begin
to saunter down through an absolutelv
still night. I hear Fletcher laughing to
himself
"Listen, it's reallv quite simple. Valking
girres me perspectire. To me, the idea that
a beautiful grove of trees is like a cathedral is a lot ofcrap. The cathedral is like a
grore of trees. Tisn't so much walking, it's
what walking puts,vou in touch wi*r.
"Comes don'n to this: Either vou'\€ got
the world by them, or it's got you by
them. You go out for a walk, a long walk,
or iust up the hill, and it loosens its grasp.
You've wrenched them free. It's the tesdcular imDerati\€."
T
\Ybenbe's not at bis Laramie, Vytming,
bome uriting, climber Mark Jenkinsprefas more tertical jaun*, strcb as tlne lE
lns made up Mt. ELV6I and Mt. f\erya.
32
id
Julv l988/Backoacker
Tn^onDanner
boots
at these
frnestores:
{t.{sIi{
AfthonF
Brrster's&p. Sroc
Cm KrngSpningfus
R.E,I.
Tmk N Tnil
ARtZOl{A
nrcnirArizmaHikingShack
hrscott.
Ba* Camp
Ternpee
R,E,I,
TuaonBobs BrgainBm
CALITORNIA
turtcim'
TumersSpningGoods
Arut&
New0utdoorStore
Ecrkeley.
R.E.I,
BurlenkSporls
Chalet
Canon.
R.E.l.
CihusHei$ts.
HuntsBig&Tall
R,E,I,
'N
Track Tmil
Cily(Xlndutry.
'N
Tmcl Tnil
CuherCity.
Spons
Club
TunelsSprtingGods
Cuprtino
R.E.I.
Ihly City.
'N
Tmck Tmil
EurelgProSpnsCenter
tairficld.
'N
Tnck Trail
lounhin Valley.
Spons
Club
Insao
'N
Tnck Tmil
Hunlington8each.
SprtsChalet
LrCanda.
SpnsChalet
Lajolh.
SprtsChalet
CA[ITORNIA
LaMasaSprtsChalel
tmg Beech.
Tumer's
SpnsCoods
lns Angcls.
Adventure
16
Mootony.
TommyDe 0utdmr
Moltclrh.
'N
Tmck Trail
NatimalCity.
'N
Tmk Tmil
Newerk.
'N
Tmck Tnil
Onnge
R.E.I.
TumeisSprtingCoods
Paln llescrl.
'N
Track Tnil
R,mchoCrdovr.
Tbe0utdmnmu
PasoRobks
Takkens
Re.fdrTumeisSprtingGoods
Rivenftle
Rivemid
Ski&Spn
TumersSprtingGmds
Sacremnto
Spons
Club
Srn Ecrnudino
SprtsClub
'N
Tmck Tnil
SatrDEgc
Adventure
16
Spons
Chalet
Srn Dinas
R.E.I.
SonFnncisco
G & M Sales
SraJc+
Tmi \ Tal
Sil hb 0biryo
Tallens
Su Mrt 0
Spons
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Tnck Tmil
Srntr Chn'N
Track Tmil
SantrRma.
Sonma0ufnen
'N
Trck Tmil
TlmusrndOal$.
WildernesShopp
Torrenc+
SpnsClub
Valeria.
Sprls Chalet
WestCovins.
Tumis Spningfus
WoodlrndHiltsSpnsClub
COLORADO
Cmted Bulle
Alpinar
Denver.
ColondoOutdmrSpns
Spns
Eastem
Mountain
GanBmtrn
R,E.I,
Iort Collip
Advonture
0rfinen
GlenwmdSpring*
ShoeSrvice
Glenwood
Longmont
Spons
Chaler
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Tnck N Trail
CONNECTICUT
Berlin.
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