Sunfish Rigging Manual

SUNFISH SUNFISH RACE
SUNFISH
Rigging Manual
Go-fast tip number one:
Read this rigging guide first.
1
Parts of the Hull
2
Parts of the Sail
3
Sunfish Mast Kit
4
Bailer Installation
5
Ratchet Block Installation
6
Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Standard)
7
Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Race)
8
Rigging the Outhaul (Race)
9
Rigging the Cunningham (Race)
10
Stepping the Mast: Standard and Race
11
Attaching the Main Halyard: Standard and Race
12
Raising the sail: Standard and Race
13
Rigging the Mainsheet
14
Assembling the Rudder and Tiller
15
Attaching the Rudder: Standard and Race
16
Daggerboard Assembly: Standard and Race
17
De-rigging
18
Sail Care
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Sunfish!
We suggest that you read through this guide to better familiarize yourself with
the parts and rigging of your Sunfi sh. If you have any questions please contact your
dealer or call LaserPerformance customer service at 1-800-966-SAIL.
2. Parts of the Sail
Mast Cap
Head of sail
1. Parts of the Hull
Automatic Bailer
Gudgeon
Leach
Coaming
Mast Step
Bow Handle
Luff
Gooseneck
COCKPIT
STERN
BOW
Clew of
the Sail
Sail
Bullseye Fairlead
Daggerboard Well
Traveler
Horn Cleat
Mast
Hiking Strap
F o ot
Outhaul and
Corner Ties
(Corner Ties on
Sunfi sh Race Only)
of t h
e S a il
Grommet
Boom Blocks
Sail Rings
Tack of
the Sail
Mainsheet
Interlocking
Eye Bolts
Nautical Terminology
Port: Left side of the boat when looking forward
Mast
Upperboom
Starboard: Right side of the boat when looking forward
Gunwale: Upper edge of a boat’s side
Halyard
Leeward: Direction away from the wind
Windward: Direction from which the wind is coming
Mainsheet
Daggerboard
Lower Boom
Rudder
Useful
knots
to know
FIGURE 8 OR
STOPPER KNOT
SQUARE KNOT
CLEAT
BOWLINE
CLOVE HITCH
S-hook
The Sunfi sh is available in two models; Standard and Race. The Race model comes with
3. Sunfish Mast Kit
equipment most commonly used for racing.
Locate the mast, upper and lower boom. The upper and lower boom will be connected
First: Locate your delivery kit. Depending on which model you have purchased (Race or Standard)
at one end with two interlocking eye bolts (figure 3). The gooseneck (figure 4) will come
there will be a few differences in some of the hardware. Using Figure 1 or 2, identify the contents of
assembled on the lower boom. Depending on the model that you purchased, the goose-
your kit. To avoid damaging the contents, be sure not to cut into the packaging inside the box.
neck bolt may differ in appearance. On the Sunfi sh Race model the gooseneck comes
Here is a list
of tools needed
to assemble your
new Sunfi sh:
equipped with a quick adjust lever (figure 5). Th is lever can easily be released in order to
adjust the positioning of the gooseneck on the lower boom. Also located on the Sunfi sh
Standard Sunfi sh Delivery Kit
Race Sunfi sh Delivery Kit
Race lower boom are two outhaul clam cleats (fi gure 6).
Sunfi sh Mast Kit Standard
Sunfi sh Mast Kit Race
ELECTRICAL TAPE
4.
4.
5.
1.
2.
3.
5.
8.
7.
1.
2.
3.
6.
8.
7.
10.
10.
9.
11.
9.
12.
figure 4
13.
SCREWDRIVERS
12.
11.
14.
figure 1
figure 2
1. Daggerboard line
1. Daggerboard line
2. Daggerboard
2. Daggerboard
3. Tiller with extension (36”),
3. Tiller with extension (36”),
Rudder bolt, Tiller end caps (4)
Rudder bolt, Tiller end caps (4)
4. Colored sail
4. White Race sail
5. Rudder
5. Wind indicator
6. Mainsheet
6. Rudder
7. Outhaul
7. Mainsheet
8. Sail rings
8. Sail ties
9. Bailer parts, Brummel hooks (2), Snap shackle,
9. Halyard
Mainsheet ratchet block
10. Daggerboard shockcord
10. Daggerboard retaining line
11. Outhaul
11. Daggerboard shockcord
12. Cunningham
12. Halyard
13. Daggerboard retaining line
15.
figure 5
INTERLOCKING
EYE BOLTS
WRENCHES
figure 3
UTILITY KNIFE
14. Bailer parts, Brummel hooks (2), Snap shackle
CLEATS
15. Mainsheet ratchet block
Contents of item # 8
4.
2.
1.
5.
3.
6.
7.
1. S-hook
5. Bailer cap
2. Brummel hook (2)
6. Bailer plug
3. Snap shackle
7. Bailer housing
4. Bailer O-ring
PLIERS
STANDARD MAST AND BOOM SET
figure 6
RACE MAST AND BOOM SET
Be sure to remove any bubble wrap and plastic coating before rigging.
4. Bailer Installation
1. Locate the bailer O-ring (A), cap (B), plug
5. Ratchet Block Installation
PLUG
(C) and housing (D) from the delivery kit
CAP
A
Depending on which model Sunfi sh you have
purchased the ratchet block will be different
O-RING
(figure 7).
C
B
2. Fit the bailer cap into the hole of the
to close (figure 9).
in appearance. Follow the instructions below
for your model Sunfi sh. Find the mainsheet
EYESTRAP
eyestrap located on the deck forward of the
plug so that the plug stopper faces upward
(figure 8). Fold the rubber plug over the cap
D
cockpit, aft of the daggerboard well (Figure 16).
BAILER HOUSING
BAILER BALL
DAGGERBOARD WELL
Th is is where you will attach the mainsheet
figure 7
ratchet block.
figure 16
3. Locate the bailer housing and O-ring
(figure 10). Place the O-ring over the neck
Standard Kit
of the bailer and push it down completely
1. In the delivery kit locate the ratchet block
(figure 11).
(figure 17), shackle, pin and ring
(figure 18).
4. Locate the bailer opening in the cockpit
(figure 12). Take the bailer housing with
2. Loop the shackle through the eyestrap and
O-ring and place it under the hull, sliding
it up through the cockpit. Make sure that
the ball in the housing is facing towards
align the hole in the shackle with the
figure 8
figure 9
hole in the bottom of the mainsheet block.
Insert the pin and secure with
the stern of the boat (fi gure 13).
the ring (figure 19).
5. While holding the housing in place,
thread the bailer cap through the cockpit
Race Kit
hole and into the bailer housing. Tighten
1. In the delivery kit locate the ratchet block
the bailer so that it is hand tight.
figure 17
figure 18
figure 19
figure 20
figure 21
figure 22
(figure 20), compression spring
(figure 21), shackle, pin and ring (figure 21).
Note: Th e bailer will not sit fl ush to the bottom of
the hull.
2. Take the shackle and loop it through the
6. When open, the stopper of the bailer
plug should lie on the cockpit floor point-
figure 10
figure 11
eyestrap. Place the compression spring
over the eyestrap (figure 22).
ing towards the bow (Figure 14).
Reminder: Th e bailer lets water out of the cockpit
3. While compressing the spring, place the
while you are sailing. Insert the bailer plug in the
mainsheet ratchet block at the top of the spring
cap before launching and during sailing (Figure 15).
BAILER OPENING
If the cockpit begins to collect water open the bailer
and align the hole in the bottom of the block
with the holes in the shackle.
to release the water. Note: the boat needs to be
moving quickly in order to allow the water to release
4. Secure the Ratchet block to the shackle using
and not take on more water at the same time.
the pin and ring
(figure 23).
Tip: To assist in keeping the spring compressed while
attaching the block to the shackle, try compressing the
figure 12
spring and tie with string. Place the tied spring over the
SPACE BETWEEN
HULL AND BAILER
eyestrap and attach the block. Th en untie the string and
release the spring.
Tip: After rigging the mainsheet block some racers prefer
to raise the height of the hiking strap in order to more
BALL TOWARD
STERN
easily get their feet under after a tack. Using a small
piece of line or shockcord, thread one end through the
forward loop of webbing in the hiking strap. Continue the
figure 13
figure 14
figure 15
line through the mainsheet block eyestrap (fi gure 21). Be
sure to tie the line tightly in order to keep the strap in the
lifted position.
figure 23
figure 24
6. Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Standard):
7. Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Race)
1. From the delivery kit locate the sail, upper
1. From the delivery kit locate the sail, upper and lower
6. Using one of the longer sail ties in the sail tie
and lower booms, S-hook and package of sail
boom, S-hook, and sail ties. Remove the cunningham
bundle to attach the head of the sail to the top end
and outhaul line from the line bag. The white race sail
of the boom. The sail should not be tied taunt as the
is attached to the booms with sail ties as opposed to sail
cunningham will be rigged and used to adjust luff
rings. There should be 4 sail ties that are longer than
tension on the Race rig. Rigging the outhaul on the
the remaining 32 ties. These longer ties are the corner
lower boom is detailed in Section 8 (fi gure 36).
rings. Remove the two outhaul lines from the
HEAD
line bag.
UPPER BOOM
2. Find a fl at surface free of sharp objects that
LEACH
LUFF
you can spread your sail out on.
sail ties.
Tip: Make sure to set the tie at the head of the sail so that the
3. Align the lower boom along the foot of the
TACK
CLEW
LOWER BOOM
sail and the upper boom along the luff (figure
25). The Sunfi sh logo should face the upper
FOOT OF SAIL
2. Find a fl at surface free of sharp objects where you
sail’s luff tension is as loose as you will want it while sailing.
can spread our your sail.
You will then be able to adjust the luff tension with the
figure 25
cunningham line.
boom (the boom that does not have any blocks
3. Align the lower boom along the foot of the sail and
attached).
the upper boom along the luff (refer to figure 25). The
7. Finish attaching the sail to the booms with the
Sunfi sh logo should face the upper boom (the boom
remaining sail ties. For each grommet in the sail,
that does not have any blocks attached).
tie one sail tie around the boom and through the
4. The two booms are attached together by in-
grommet. Secure with a square knot (figure 37).
terlocking eye bolts. Th is corner of the sail is
known as the tack. Take the S-hook and loop
4. The two booms are attached together by
one end through the interlocking eye bolt that
interlocking eye bolts. Take the S-hook and loop one
is attached to the lower boom (Figure 26).
end through the interlocking eye bolt that is attached
to the lower boom (figure 34).
5. Take the free end of the S-hook and place it
through the grommet in the tack of the sail.
figure 26
figure 27
Tip: Some racers use a piece of line to secure the sail to the
Using a pair of pliers, crimp the S-hook closed
interlocking eye bolt as opposed to the S-hook. It is suggested to
(figure 27).
use a 10” long, 2 mm piece of spectra that gets led through the
figure 34
figure 35
figure 36
figure 37
tack grommet and interlocking eye bolt. Wrap the line 2 or 3 times
around and secure with a square knot.
6. Attaching the outhaul lines: Starting at
either the head of the sail or the clew (one of
the ends that is not yet attached to the booms)
5. Take the free end of the S-hook and place it through
take one of the outhaul lines and tie a stopper
the grommet in the tack of the sail. Using a pair of pli-
knot in the end of it. Feed the free end of the
ers, crimp the S-hook closed. Using the longer corner ties
line through the boom cap (figure 28).
secure the tack of the sail to both the upper and lower
figure 28
booms using separate lines by wrapping the line around
figure 29
twice and securing with a square knot (Figure 35).
7. Continue the line through the grommet
in the sail (figure 29) and then back down
through the top cap. Double the line through
8. Rigging the Outhaul (Race):
the grommet (figure 30) and secure with a
couple half hitches (figure 31). The outhaul
1. Using the outhaul line, tie a bowline to the
line should be fairly snug (fi gure 32).
lower boom end cap (figure 38).
8. Repeat the same procedures for the second
2. Lead the free end of the line through
outhaul.
the grommet in the sail and back through
figure 38
figure 39
the boom end cap (figure 39). Continue the
9. Secure the remainder of the sail to the
figure 30
figure 31
line forward down the boom to the aft most
booms using the sail rings. Locate a grom-
boom cleat.
GROMMET
met, place the sail ring around the boom,
1. TIE
insert the grommet between the openings of
3. Tie an overhand knot in the outhaul
the ring and press fi rmly to secure (figures 33
two sail ties before the boom cleat. Lead
and 34).
the outhaul line through the two sail ties
OVERHAND
KNOT
2. LEAD LINE
UNDER SAIL TIES
3. THROUGH
CLEAT
and through the cleat (Figure 40).
figure 33
4. THROUGH
Tip: Pliers may be helpful when closing the sail rings.
4. Lead the line back through the overhand
However use caution, as they can easily scratch the
knot and back forward through the cleat. Cleat
booms.
figure 32
figure 34
off and tie a large bowline handle in the end
(figure 40).
OVERHAND
KNOT
figure 40
5. BACK THROUGH
CLEAT
6. CLEAT OFF AND TIE
A BOWLINE HANDLEKNOT
9. Rigging the Cunningham (Race)
11. Attaching the Main Halyard: Standard and Race
1. Using the cunningham
The main halyard is secured to the upper boom with a clove hitch. It is suggested that you place three wraps of
line, tie a bowline to the
electrical tape around the upper booms between the ninth and tenth sail ring (counting from the tack of the
interlocking eyebolt of the
sail upward). The tape helps keep the halyard from slipping up to the next sail ring or sail tie.
upper boom (figure 41).
Note: Tying the halyard between the 9th and 10th sail ring is only a suggestion for the halyard location. You can play with the location
of the halyard to raise or lower the boom depending on your comfort or wind strength. It is highly suggested not to tie the halyard up
2. Lead the line through the
much farther; raising the boom too far off the deck may cause the mast to bend. For further information on tuning your Sunfi sh visit the
grommet in the tack of the
class association at www.sunfi shclass.org.
sail (figure 42) and
continue it down through
the interlocking eye bolt in
the lower boom (figure 43).
3. Feed the line through the
TAIL
figure 42
figure 41
figure 43
PULL TO
TIGHTEN
FALL
opening in the gooseneck
FIGURE
8 KNOT
that retains the lower boom.
Just forward of the mast, tie
2. LEAD LINE
THROUGH CLEAT
an overhand knot (figure 44).
1. TIE OVERHAND
KNOT
4. Lead the line through the
forward most cleat and back
figure 44
4. BACK THROUGH CLEAT
through the overhand knot.
Cleat off and tie a bowline
handle with the remainder
3. THROUGH
OVERHAND
KNOT
figure 45
1. Find one end of the
2. Lead the tail of the
3. Where the tail
4. Lead the tail under 5. Tie a figure 8 knot
halyard (tail) and
halyard over the fall
crosses over the fall
the line you are pull-
wrap it around the
(The fall is the
it forms an X. Pull up ing up on. Pull on the tail.
upper boom just be-
remainder of the hal- on the line that cre-
low the electrical
yard) and around the
tape; leaving about a
upper boom again.
ates the top of the X.
in the end of the
tail and fall in order
to tighten around the
boom.
foot long tail to complete the clove hitch.
of the line (figure 45).
12. Raising the sail: Standard and Race
10. Stepping the Mast: Standard and Race
Before raising the sail make sure that the bow of the boat is pointing into the wind and you are clear of obstacles
that the boom might hit. Be sure to have the mainsheet and mainsheet snap shackle on hand as they will be the
1. Locate the mast, as well as the main halyard from the
next parts to assemble.
line bag. Th read one half of the halyard through the hole
in the mast top cap (figure 46).
2. Before stepping the mast make sure that there are
NO OVERHEAD WIRES in the area or leading to the
launching site!
3. Make sure that the mast step hole and mast heal are
figure 47
perfectly clean. Any sand, dirt, etc. in the mast step
will grind into the gelcoat and eventually damage the
boat.
4. Lay the booms and sail on the deck of the Sunfi sh.
3. Lead the tail of the halyard
1. Begin raising the sail by pulling
2. You will need to assist the lower
down on the halyard.
boom off the deck by raising the boom through the main halyard fairlead
Align the gooseneck on the lower boom over the mast
close to the gooseneck while pulling
on the deck. Tie off the halyard to
step hole (Figure 47).
on the halyard. Continue to pull on
the main halyard cleat.
the halyard until the upper boom is
right against the top of the mast.
5. Holding onto both ends of the halyard, lift the mast
up setting the heal of the mast through the gooseneck
ring. Slide the mast into the mast tube (figure 48). Be
careful not to drop the mast into the tube for damage
figure 46
to the mast step will occur!
figure 48
Tip: It is suggested to coil
Optional: How to create a vang with the
up the remaining tail of the
tail of your halyard. After cleating off the
halyard and place it under
halyard lead the free end of the line through
the taught halyard section
the fairlead, around the mast above the
on the deck. Th is will keep
gooseneck, and back through the fairlead.
the halyard from dragging
Some racers attach the free end of the line to
in the water.
the daggerboard.
13. Rigging the Mainsheet
16. Attaching the Rudder: Standard and Race
1. Retrieve the mainsheet from the line bag. Tie
a bowline to the mainsheet snap shackle with
one end of the mainsheet (figure 49).
2. Snap the mainsheet shackle onto the bridle
(figure 50).
3. Feed the free end of the mainsheet up and
BRIDLE
through the aft most boom block and continue
towards the bow along the boom, making sure
to go through the second boom block before
leading down to the mainsheet block attached
figure 50
figure 49
figure 51
to the deck (figure 51).
LEVER
4. Lead the line down through the ratchet
block. Making sure that while pulling in the
mainsheet the block makes a ratcheting noise.
figure 53
1. Slide the tiller and
2. Press down on the top
3. Release the pin. The
4. The Sunfish Race rudder
extension underneath the
of the pintle pin
rudder should now be
attachment is the same as
wire bridle. The pintle pin
(compressing the pintle
securely attached to the
the standard Sunfish. The
will have two indentations
spring) and slide the pin’s
boat. The rudder should be
only difference between
that align with the two
indentations into the
able to pivot from side to
the two models is the
notches in the gudgeon
gudgeon.
side easily. Leave the rud-
rudder blade materials.
If the block does not make a ratchet sound one
(located on the stern of the
der in the kicked up posi-
of two things could be the problem. First try
boat). Align the pintle pin
tion prior to launching.
running the mainsheet through the block the
with the gudgeon notches.
opposite way. If this does not work, locate the
lever on the mainsheet block and switch it to
figure 52
the ratchet position (figure 52).
COMPLETE MAINSHEET
17. Daggerboard Assembly: Standard and Race
1.Locate the daggerboard, bungee
14. Tiller Extension Assembly
line, retainer line, daggerboard
1. Insert tab of tiller extension into slot of tiller extension
handle line and brummel hooks (2)
mount, this should slide in with a snug fit.
from the line bag and delivery kit
BUNGEE LINE
(figure 54).
2. Once tiller extension tab is fully inserted into the mount,
align the mount cover and push down on mount to secure
fitting.
2. With a stopper knot, attach the
Tip: Some sailors wrap vinyl electrical tape around both
brummel hooks to each end of the
ends of the mount and tiller to ensure the extension does
bungee (figure 55).
BRUMMEL HOOKS
figure 54
figure 55
not disconnect while sailing.
3. Th read the daggerboard handle line
15. Assembling the Rudder and Tiller
through the aft hole of the dagger-
Locate the rudder and tiller from the delivery kit. Remove the tiller bolt and
tying the handle. Use figures 56 - 60.
figure 56
4. Th read one of the brummel hooks
Find the center of the daggerboard handle line.
Thread one end of the
through the hole in the daggerboard.
Pass one end of the line through either hole and
handle line through the
5. Lead the ends of the bungee around
place the center of the line at the hole. Twist the
aft hole and tie a stopper
the mast (figure 61) and through the
two sides of the line around each other (figure
knot. Continue the line
bow handle. Connect the two brum-
56). When a sufficient handle is made by the
back through the hole
mels (figure 62).
twisting, thread one end of the line through the
and tie a stopper knot on
opposite hole (figure 57). Secure with a square
the opposite side. Pull
6. When you are ready to launch, slide
knot (figure 58). Using a hot knife cut the ends of
tight. Cut excess line.
the daggerboard into the daggerboard
the knot to a desired length (figure 59).
board head. There are 2 suggestions for
figure 57
figure 58
figure 59
figure 60
the two plastic washers from the end of the black tiller straps.
1. Align the hole in the end of the tiller with
that of the rudder head. The contour of
TILLER EXTENSION
the tiller should match that of the rudder
cheek.
2. Align the washer and bolt and insert into
the end hole of the tiller twisting it through
UNIVERSAL
TILLER
to the other end.
3. Align the second washer and lock nut on
well. The bungee should be facing the
the end of the bolt and using a 7/16” socket
bow while the retaining line faces
head driver and 7/16” crescent wrench com-
the cockpit (figure 63). Tie a bowline
plete the install of the rudder head bolt.
with the daggerboard retainer line to
4. Place the plastic end caps on tiller ends
and rubber bolt holes.
Tip: Because the socket of the wrench will need to fit into the outer hole of the tiller, be sure you are using a socket with a thin outer wall.
RETAINING
LINE
the aft hole of the handle in the daggerboard. With the free end of the line
tie a bowline to the mainsheet block
eyestrap
On the other end, place the closed (circular) end of the crescent wrench in the tiller end and then place the lock nut in the wrench before
screwing the bolt all the way through.
figure 61
figure 62
figure 63
18. De-rigging
When you approach shallow water, begin to pull up the daggerboard as much as possible without obstructing
the boom and kick up the rudder. After hopping out of the boat, detach the mainsheet shackle from the bridle
Owner Information
line. Remove the daggerboard and place it in the cockpit. It is suggested to rinse your boat and sails with fresh
water especially if you are sailing in salt water. It is also suggested to allow the sail to dry before rolling. After
drying, pull the sail out taught and roll it up against the booms, securing both the sails and booms to the deck
with the mainsheet.
hull identification number
It is highly suggested to purchase covers for both the hull and blades in order to protect your boat from natural
elements. A wide variety of accessories are available for purchase through your local LaserPerformance dealer.
purchased from
date of purchase
contact name
phone #
19. Sail Care
It is important to take proper care of your sail to ensure it will last longer and to provide the best performance.
Follow these simple tips to help extend the life of your sail.
1. If you are sailing in salt water, be sure to rinse out your sail with fresh water after every use. Dacron sails do
not absorb water or salt but the salt will dry on the sails making them stiff. The salt in humid weather can attract moisture that may cause it mildew to grow.
address:
2. NEVER machine wash your sails. Doing so will damage the material as well as remove the
fi nish of the sail. If your sail becomes dirty, clean it with a mild dish detergent and rinse with fresh water.
Do not bleach or use other harsh chemicals on the sail–they can ruin the fi nish, decreasing the life of
city / state / county
zip / postal code
the sail. It is not recommended to store your sail wet, doing so is an invitation for mildew to grow.
3. It is not recommended to dry your sail in the sun because other than when in use, over exposure of UV rays
will slowly break down the material of the sail. Be aware of the surface that you are drying your sail on as
hull color: sail #:
asphalt and other parking lot surfaces are very abrasive to the sail material and may contain chemicals (i. e. oil)
that can damage the sail. Avoid unnecessary flogging for it will greatly reduce the life of the sail.
4. Rolling your sail is highly recommended. Crumpling a sail will crack the fi nish of the material which quickly
registration information (if applicable)
reduces the life of the sail. Purchasing a Sunfi sh sail and spar bag is highly recommended and are available
through your local dealer.
5. Make sure to regularly inspect your sail for loose or torn stitching or small tears in the cloth. Have any
trailer vin #
stitching or tears repaired by a local sailmaker before they become more of a problem.
SEITECH dollies are the easy-to-use, light-weight, small boat transportation solution.
The Sunfi sh dolly has been designed specifically to fit and support the shape of the hull.
license plate number
SEITECH dollies allow you to spend less time getting your boat to and from the water and
more time on the water. Visit www.seitech.com.
registration number
Sunfi sh Class Association
For more information and to link to Sunfi sh sailors around
the world, join the Sunfi sh Class Association at www.sunfi shclass.org.
insurance information
LaserPerformance equips the Sunfi sh with the highest quality parts available. We partner with key suppliers
to develop top-of-the-line sailing equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level possible when sailed
with the factory supplied rope, sails and hardware. Shop online at laserperformance.com or at an authorized
LaserPerformance dealer to be sure you are getting genuine LaserPerformance parts and accessories.
Visit www.laserperformance.com to fi nd your local dealer.
maintenance
state / county registered in
LaserPerformance NORTH AMERICA
300 Highpoint Avenue
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
t +1 800 966 SAIL
f +1 401 683 0990
LaserPerformance EUROPE
Station Works, Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
t +44 (0) 1327 841600
f +44 (0) 1327 841601
LaserPerformance ASIA
Room 3415
China Merchants Tower
Shun Tak Centre
No. 168-200 Connaught Road Central
Hong Kong
t +852 2902 2818
f +852 2587 7868
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