Installation Guide (warning 7mb)

1
INSTALLATION GUIDE
Replacing your Existing 4 speed Gears with the New 5 Speed Cluster
General Description
The existing 4 speed gearbox is fitted to all models as a separate unit.
The designation of the gearbox can be determined from the prefix stamped on the gearbox shell,
immediately before the serial number. This is on the main shell, stamped on the top right hand side,
near the end cover joint
12 Prefix
14 Prefix
Viper and Venom Models
MSS Models
The suffix R represents Close Ratio Gear Ratios, as fitted to Clubman and Thruxton models.
It is not necessary to dismantle the engine to gain access to the gearbox, but it is necessary to
remove the gearbox complete from the frame.
The recognised method to do this is to remove the gearbox within the rear engine plates.
This will require the removal of the dynamo covers, the primary chaincases, primary chain, and
clutch assembly.
Please check that all the required components for the 5 speed cluster have been delivered to you.
Illustrated above, are the components of the 5 speed cluster as you will receive them. The
Particular set illustrated is for the Road Ratio with reverse cam plate.
To enable installation both the Mainshaft and the Layshaft assemblies have to be disassembled,
requiring the locating circlips to be removed.
With all the items disassembled, please check al components have been received and are ready for
assembly.
We have provided a check-list for this purpose and recommend that this is used prior to taking you
bike off the road.
Similarly, if it is felt that the bearings will require to be renewed, or additional parts may be required,
try to pre-empt this and have these available prior to the stripdown.
We have some of these components available. These are listed at the end of these instructions.
2
Gearbox Removal
Before commencing to replace the gear cluster, it is advisable to remove the gearbox from the
frame. The engine and gearbox must be lifted out of the frame and the engine plates removed.
Prior to the removal of the gearbox from the frame, drain the oil from the gearbox, via the drain
plug, at the bottom of the front cover, allowing for the oil to drain into a receptacle placed below.
The contents of the gearbox, when full, is one imperial pint (0.56litres).SAE50.
They are retained by two bolts that pass through the top lug of the gearbox shell and by the single
bolt through the bottom lug. Not that the two upper bolts have specially shaped heads that align
with slots in the left hand engine plate, to facilitate gearbox movement for primary chain adjustment.
It is also advisable to remove the draw bolt adjuster on the right hand engine plates, to provide
clearance for the engine plates to be lifted away. It is retained by a nut and washer on the inside
of the engine plate.
When the engine plates have been removed, prepare a clean work area suitable for the gearbox to
be stripped, preferably on a cloth or newspaper, so that any parts inadvertently misplaced will fall
onto the clean surface, and similarly the new internals will not become contaminated prior to
installation.
Dismantling the Gearbox
The kickstarter assembly is bolted to the exterior of the gearbox end cover by two short bolts and one
long bolt at the bottom.
When these bolts are withdrawn, the complete kickstarter assembly can be removed without the need
to detach the kickstarter arm or to release the spring tension.
3
Dismantling the Gearbox (cont)
Note there is no gasket between the end of the
kickstarter bearing housing and the end of the gearbox outer cover with which it fixes to.
It is probable that the end cover over the right hand end of the mainshaft will have been removed
at an earlier stage , in order to slacken the nut on the end of the mainshaft. If the cover is still
in position, it should be removed at this stage by withdrawing the two short retaining bolts. This
cover has a paper gasket to the jointing face.
To slacken the nut on the right hand end of the gearbox mainshaft, place a close fitting spanner
across the cruciform end on the left hand end of the mainshaft, so that it can be held rigidly whilst
the right hand nut is slackened and removed.
Dismantling the Gearbox – Removing the end Cover
The end cover is retained to the gearbox shell by 8 ¼” bolts around the perphery. There is no
necessity to remove the single bolt close to the kickstarter housing, which acts solely as an oil
level plug.
The end cover should now lift away, but if it does not come away easily, it may be necessary to
tap the right hand end of the gearbox mainshaft through the centre of the ball race that remains in
the end cover, if the shaft is a tight fit in the bearing.
4
Dismantling the Gearbox – Removing the Selectors and 4 speed Cluster
With the end cover removed, it is most probable that the floating bush that supports the right hand
end of the layshaft will remain on the layshaft and should be removed.
Alternatively, it may remain within the kickstart housing. If so, it can be left within this for the
time being. This bearing will be required for the refitment of the 5 speed cluster.
Remove the bottom gear pinion from the end of the mainshaft. It will pull off quite easily.
Draw out the two selector forks rods that extend through the selector forks. They are a push fit in
the far end of the gearbox shell and are provided with a groove close to the right hand end, which
will aid extraction.
Do not use undue force, and take care not to damage the surface of the rods, as again, this will be
re used.
Withdraw the mainshaft from the left hand side (clutch side) of the gearbox. The upper selector
fork can now be disengaged from the camplate and can be lifted away, along with the double
sliding pinions.
5
The complete layshaft assembly can now be disengaged together with the lower selector fork.
Some difficulty may occur in the case of the close ratio and TT close ratio gearboxes (prefix 12)
with either the 17 or 18 close ratio gear.
They will withdraw only in one position, because of the sixteen pickup teeth of the top gear
pinion coinciding with sleeve gear teeth in that position.
The layshaft must be rotated until the teeth are aligned correctly, to permit the withdrawal.
Remove the sleeve gear by tapping the gear inwards through the main bearing.
6
Dismantling the Gearbox – Gear change Mechanism
It is not necessary to remove the pivot mechanism of the gear change, with only the camplate
and its associated striking pawl requiring removal.
The camplate is a push fit over the camplate ratchet plate , that is mounted on the pivot.
Remove camplate and striking pawl.
The Gearbox is now stripped to a level that is ready to accept the new 5 speed gear cluster.
If there is any doubt regarding the general condition of the gearbox and its bearings, we would recommend,
as a minimum these are inspected and preferably changed, whilst the gearbox is at this level of overhaul.
It is easier to replace now than having to re-strip the gearbox, in a few months time!
With this in mind the next section outlines the removal and replacement of the bearings and general
inspection of the components to be re-used.
7
Removing the Gearbox Bearings
The mainshaft bearing in the end cover of the gearbox can be jarred out of position with
the retaining circlip first being removed, and the end cover being gently heated.
Once the cover has reached an even temperature, bring the cover down smartly on a block of
wood.
The bearing should be released from the cover.
The sleeve gear bearing is retained by a screwed ring, on the external face of the gearbox. The
ring has 3 machined slots to aid its removal.
Before the ring can be removed, the clutch thrust cup assembly will require to be dismantled. This
is held in position be two small screws with a retaining wire.
It is our experience to find that the aluminium shell is peened over to prevent the locking ring
from turning. It is necessary to clear this material away, even to the level of dressing the thread
within the case, to ease its removal.
As it is not expected for the installer to have the actual Velo Service Tool X2725 to aid the
removal of this ring, a hammer and punch will have to suffice!
Prior to attempting to undo the ring, gently heat the gearbox shell, to an even temperature, to help
release the grip on the ring.
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With ring removed, the thin metal oil retaining shim over the bearing can be lifted off. The
bearing is then tapped out of position from the inside of the case. Take care to keep the internal oil
shim.
The internal layshaft bearing within the gearbox shell can be removed, in a similar manner to
that of the mainshaft bearing in the end cover, by gently heating the casing and bringing it down
sharply on a block of wood, jarring the bearing out of position.
Examination and Inspection
Before reassembling the gearbox, it is necessary to inspect all the components that will be reused
in the 5 speed gearbox.
These parts, including the case and end cover, should be washed in a petrol/paraffin mix, to
remove all traces of oil and metallic particles which may have accumulated as the result of general
wear and tear in the gear box.
Do not omit to check the castings themselves, for cracks or signs of damage or distortion.
If there is any doubt over the condition of the case and components, seek specialist advice.
Check the condition of the bearing housing. If the bearings are a slack fit and have shown a
tendency to rotate it is advisable to use a bearing sealant, such as Loctite when refitting the
bearings.
Again, if the case is badly worn due to this occurrence and the clearance is too great, then another
case will have to be found.
9
Ball Bearings
As above, the 3 ball races employed with the gearbox, namely mainshaft, layshaft and sleeve
gear pinion bearings, should be washed within a clean petrol/paraffin mix and then checked for
any play or roughness as they are rotated.
If there is any doubt about their condition it is best to play safe and renew.
Layshaft Bush
Clean the bush as above, and test fit to new 5 speed layshaft. If excessive movement is found,
replace bush. Similarly, test fit the bush with the kickstart housing. Replace if necessary.
Selector Mechanism
Check the remaining components of the gear selector mechanism that have been left within the
gearbox housing are not unduly worn or damaged. Check the condition of the striking pawl spring
and replace as necessary.
Selector Rods
If the selector rods are bent, damaged or burred, replace. Similarly, if the rods are a slack fit in the
gearbox housing, remedial work will be required to over come this problem.
Replacement of Gearbox Bearings
We strongly recommend the fitting of new bearings throughout the gearbox, whilst the gearbox is
in this stripped down state, which ensures correct alignment of the gear cluster to be fitted, as well
as giving peace of mind in the future
Sleeve Gear Bearing
1.
Fit inner oil retaining shim into gearbox shell bearing housing.
2.
Fit sleeve gear bearing into housing, push fit
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3.
Place outer oil retaining shim on outer face of bearing. Screw threaded locking ring into
position. When tightened fully, it should be arranged so that one of the internal grooves on the
locking ring is positioned to the bottom of the housing. This ensures the oil trapped by the shims,
drains back into the gearbox. The relative position of the internal grooves can be determined by the
position of the external grooves. With the external groove near to the top of the housing, than an
internal groove will be near the bottom.
4.
Check the operation of the bearing, by rotating by hand and ensuring the shims are correctly
positioned, not fouling the rotating component of the bearing.
5.
With the ring tightened fully, it should be locked into position, by the use of a centre punch to
burr over the edge of the aluminium housing at the point of one the rings slots.
Layshaft Bearing
1.
2.
The left hand layshaft ball race should press into the gearbox housing from the inside.
Gently warm the gearbox shell and align the bearing to the edge of the bearing housing.
3.
Make sure the bearing enters the housing squarely, before tapping fully home.
4.
If it is found the bearing is a slack fit, remove the bearing and reinsert using a bearing
sealant as previously described.
Mainshaft Bearing
1.
2.
3.
Gently warm the end cover and align the bearing to the edge of the bearing housing.
Make sure the bearing enters the housing squarely, before tapping fully home.
Refit retaining circlip.
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Installation of Gear Cluster
The only “special” Tools that are required for this assembly are External circlip pliers
1.
It has been found that is preferable for the gear cluster installation to be carried out with
the gearbox housing laying with “its back” (clutch side) flat on the bench.
2.
Place the gearbox housing on a block of wood, to allow the sleeve gear to pass through
and not foul the bench.
3.
As stated previously, the gearbox housing should be in the situation with its bearings fitted
and the striking plate/ gear selector assembly in place.
4.
Fit new striking pawl onto pin of the original Velocette striking plate assembly. Replace
spring if worn, distorted or damaged.
5.
The new Camplate comes pre-assembled with its ratchet plate. On no account should this
be separated, and remains as one assembly.
6.
Fit camplate to camplate pivot, by springing pawl clear of the camplate. Release to allow
indexing pawl to locate to the gear position notches on the camplate.
7.
Set Cam plate to fourth gear position and keep fourth gear position selected
throughout assembly of the cluster.
8.
Fit the sleeve gear complete with the oil thrower, from inside the gearbox case, through main
output bearing.
9.
Fit circlip on the left hand end of the layshaft.
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10.
Fit fifth gear on layshaft and install layshaft into layshaft bearing within gearbox
housing.
11.
Push mainshaft through sleeve gear.
12.
Fit selector 1 onto the second gear and fit both simultaneously onto the mainshaft.
13.
Fit selector 2 onto the layshaft second gear and fit both simultaneously on to the
layshaft, without fitting the bush.
14.
15.
Insert the bush onto the layshaft, through the second gear.
Fit the circlip onto the layshaft to secure the bush into position.
13
16.
17.
18.
Fit the circlip onto the mainshaft.
Fit one of the thin thrust washers onto the mainshaft.
Fit the bush onto main shaft.
19.
Fit fourth gear on the mainshaft.
20.
Fit fourth gear on layshaft with the larger thrust face to match with the face on the second
gear, which is already positioned on the shaft
21.
Fit the third gear to the layshaft.
22.
Fit the third gear to the mainshaft.
23.
24.
Fit the second thin thrust washer on the mainshaft
Fit the securing circlip to the mainshaft.
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25.
26.
27.
28.
Fit selector 3 to the sliding dog and fit both to the mainshaft
Fit the first gear onto the layshaft.
Fit the first gear onto the mainshaft
Fit thick thrust washer on layshaft.
29.
Insert selector rods through the selector forks and locate within gearbox casing. Lightly oil
shafts to assist installation.
30.
Fit original Velocette bush to end of the layshaft.
31.
Prior to fitting cover, return camplate to neutral position, utilising operation slot with gear
selector mechanism. Check neutral position is selected, by free rotation of sleeve gear and mainshaft.
Fit end cover gasket, with gasket cement, if prefered.
32.
Replace end cover, gently tapping, if required to ensure mainshaft engagement with end cover
bearing. With mainshaft in position, selector rods located correctly, and also the gear change rocker
shaft with the slot in the striking plate assembly aligned, seat the cover into position.
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33.
Replace the 7 bolts and lockwashers that retain the end cover in position and tighten
them fully, in rotation, to ensure even pressure on the casing.
34.
Replace the nut (1/2” BSF) on the right hand end of the mainshaft, and tighten whilst
holding the cruciform end with a spanner of the correct size.
35.
Fit the end cover, using a new gasket and jointing compound, if preferred.
36.
Take the complete assemble kickstart assembly and check that the 3 thrust pins are in
position, within the kick start ratchet.Insert the thrust washer (original)in the kickstart assembly,
making sure it is square to the pins.
37.
Move the gearbox to a horizontal position and insert kickstart assembly.
38.
No gasket is required, but it may be preferable to use jointing compound.
39.
Fit and tighten 3 retaining bolts.
The gearbox is now fully assembled and ready for use.
Check the general operation of the gearbox.
Check with neutral selected, that both sleeve gear and mainshaft rotate freely and do not bind.
Select each gear in turn and prove operation of both gear operation and selection.
Check operation of both up and down gear selections.
If any undue stiffness in rotation or gear selection is found, or if gear selection cannot be made, further
investigation will be required, as it is most probably that the assembly is incorrect.
Please note : The new mainshaft has ½” BSF threads on both ends. Ensure the correct nuts are fitted
Providing the gearbox operation proves to be free, it is ready to be installed into the bike.
16
General Notes and Operation
Whilst taking every consideration in the manufacture of these gear clusters, it has come to light
that the tolerances of the original Velocette castings leave a lot to be desired.
For this reason, it is possible that all 5 speed gear kits may require slight modification , for
example, fettling on assembly to the gearbox.
Quaifes state “The new Quaife 5 speed internals are quite complex and your customers should be
advised that a high degree of mechanical knowledge will be required for fitment. We do not
foresee any fitting problems will be encountered, where gearkits are assembled by a competent
mechanic”.
To date the following areas have been areas of concern, and it has been found the tolerances vary
considerably.
1. The distance between the selector rods. From our findings, the centres between the two rods
vary upto 0.040”. This affects the operation of the new selectors. It is therefore recommended to
fit the selectors rods into the empty case and slide the selectors onto them. Ensure there is
clearance to the bottom of the “U” of all the selectors. If there is no clearance, then this should be
modified to accommodate this.
2. Dummy Kickstart Bearing Housings. On racing gearboxes, where it is preferred not to use a
kickstarter, the various dummy housings on the market vary considerable. This needs to be
carefully checked, so that on assembly, no movement is allowed on the Layshaft. The plain
bearing and thrust of the original kickstart requires to be replicated as close as possible, so no
lateral movement of the Layshaft occurs. In the original kickstart assembly, the maximum
clearance is around 0.001/2”.
It has been found, that with some of the dummy kickstart bearing housings, that use a standard
ballrace, that these have no method in limiting Layshaft movement. If this type is to be fitted, a
method of limiting Layshaft movement will be required.
3.Striking Pawl Pivot Pin. The original Velocette pin onto which the new striking pawl has to
fit varies considerably in diameter. It is quite likely the new striking will not fit over the existing
pin. If this occurs, either another plate will have to be found, with the correct diameter pin or the
pin modified to fit.
I have looked through various Parts List for this component, but cannot find any change
occurred, so cannot explain this difference.
4.Selector Rods. It has been found that the selector rods are quite often bent. Check
straightness, by placing on flat surface. If in doubt replace.
5. Position of Camplate to Selector Rod Bores. Again, the selector rod position in the casing,
appears to vary. To check this, place the selector rods in the casing, with the camplate installed.
Slide the selectors onto the rod and engage into the camplate. Ensure there is no tightness
between the face of the selector and the camplate. Modify, by fettling the selector face to ensure
clearance.
6.Cases. In relation to item 5. above, it has been found that it is very important to ensure the
gearbox case and lid align correctly. We have come aware that where a gearbox is assembled
from odd parts, it is very likely that the lid and case will not align with each other. The worst
case to date is a misalignment of some 3/64”!!
It would appear that the lid and case were inlined bored as pairs. The only solution is match
cases with lids for the best alignment of selector rods and bearing bores.
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Operation
We have no operational recommendations, apart from that following the first installation of the
gearbox, we recommend a period of light operation of some 100 miles to allow the gearbox gear
selector mechanism to bed down.
After this period we recommend for the gearbox oil to be changed and then the original
manufacturer’s service intervals to be adhered.
Quaife recommend for a synthetic oil to be used, and recommend Silktrans SYN5 75W/90.
The oil capacity remains unchanged at 1 pint (0.56 litres). This is available from us in 1
Litre bottles, if required.
We hope the gear cluster provides many miles of service and enjoyment from your Velocette
motorcycle, as indeed it is our intention to preserve the operation of this fine motorcycle.
If however, problems are incurred, please do not hesitate to contact us, for advice or assistance.
If after reading these notes, you feel this job is greater than you first realised, and would like our help,
again, please contact us to arrange our fitting service.
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Spares
Item
Description
Part No.
1.
2.
Mainshaft Bearing
Sleeve Gear Bearing
B23
B22
3.
Layshaft Bearing
B22/2
4.
Layshaft Bush
BK85/2
5.
6.
7.
Selector Rods
Pawl Spring
Cover Gasket
BK90/2
GC24/2
B43/2
8.
9.
10.
11.
Mainshaft Bearing Cover Gasket
B98
1ltr SYN5 75W/90 oil
DDSL11
½” BSF Nyloc nuts
BK106
End Cover Bolts
DDSL12
(set of 10 hex S.Steel c/w plain & spring Washers)
12.
End Cover Bolts
DDSL13
(set of 10 cap head S.Steel c/w plain and spring washers)
13.
14.
Fill, Drain and Level Plugs S.Steel DDSL14
K/start R/Spring anchor peg S.Steel BK73/2
Price
All prices quoted are each. Prices exclusive of VAT and delivery.
Delivery Packing Note
Customer ………………………………………..
Gear Cluster type……………………………
19
Contents
Part No.
DDSL/1V1/02
DDSL/1V1/07
DDSL/1V1/35
DDSL/1V1/37
DDSL/1V1/018
DDSL/1V1/825
DDSL/1V1/04
DDSL/1V1/29
DDSL/1V1/180
DDSL/1V1/06
DDSL/1V1/33
DDSL/1V1/05
DDSL/1V1/31
DDSL/1V1/15
DDSL/1V1/14
DDSL/1V1/03
DDSL/1V1/17
DDSL/1V1/08
DDSL/1V1/09
DDSL/1V1/11
DDSL/1V1/32
DDSL/1V1/12
DDSL/1V1/34
DDSL/1V1/10
DDSL/1V1/30
DDSL/1V1/16
DDSL/1V1/13
DDSL/1V1/36
DDSL/1V1/38
DDSL/1V1/1167
DDSL/1V1/19
DDSL/1V1/18
DDSL/1V1/20
DDSL/1V1/39
DDSL/1V1/21
DDSL/1V1/22
DDSL/1V1/23
DDSL/1V1/24
DDSL/1V1/25
DDSL/1V1/26
DDSL/1V1/27
DDSL/1V1/28
*Part of an Assembly
Description
A
1
M/S - NEEDLE ROLLER TYPE - ROAD RACE *
5TH GEAR M/S SLEEVE GEAR 16T - ROAD RATIO
1
5TH GEAR M/S SLEEVE GEAR 18T – RACE A
5TH GEAR M/S SLEEVE GEAR 18T - RACE B
2
5TH GEAR M/SHAFT BEARING ROAD & RACE *
1
5TH GEAR M/S INTERNAL CIRCLIP ROAD & RACE
2ND GEAR MAIN SHAFT- 24T - ROAD RATIO
1
2ND GEAR MAIN SHAFT- 23T - RACE RATIO A & B
4
EX CIRCLIP – M/S - LAYSHAFT ROAD & RACE
4TH GEAR MAIN SHAFT 19T - ROAD RATIO
1
4TH GEAR MAIN SHAFT 19T - RACE RATIO A & B
3RD GEAR MAIN SHAFT 21T - ROAD RATIO
1
3RD GEAR MAIN SHAFT 23T - RACE RATIO A & B
1
BUSH 3RD/4TH GEARS M/ SHAFT - ROAD & RACE
1
SLIDER - 1ST/3RD GEARS M/S -ROAD & RACE
1
1ST GEAR M/S 26T - ROAD & RACE
1
BUSH 1ST GEAR M/S - ROAD & RACE
1
LAYSHAFT - ROAD & RACE
1
1ST GEAR LAY SHAFT 18T - ROAD & RACE
3RD GEAR LAYSHAFT - 26T - ROAD RATIO
1
3RD GEAR LAYSHAFT - 25T - RACE RATIO A & B
4TH GEAR LAYSHAFT - 28T - ROAD RATIO
1
4TH GEAR LAYSHAFT - 24T - RACE RATIO A & B
2ND GEAR LAYSHAFT - 23T - ROAD RATIO
1
2ND GEAR LAYSHAFT - 20T - RACE RATIO A & B
1
BUSH 2ND GEAR LAYSHAFT - ROAD & RACE
5TH GEAR LAYSHAFT - 27T - ROAD RATIO
1
5TH GEAR LAYSHAFT - 25T - RACE RATIO A
5TH GEAR LAYSHAFT - 26T - RACE RATIO B
1
OIL SEAL - 5TH GEAR M/S - ROAD & RACE *
2
SHORT SPACER 5TH GEAR –M/S ROAD & RACE
1
LONG SPACER 5TH GEAR –M/S ROAD & RACE
2
THRUST WSHR 3/4TH GEARS M/S ROAD & RACE
1
SPACER 1ST GEAR - LAY SHAFT - ROAD & RACE
CAMPLATE NORMAL - ROAD & RACE (IN PLACE OF
1
DDSL1V1/22)
CAMPLATE REVERSE - ROAD & RACE (IN PLACE OF
1
DDSL1V1/21)
1
RATCHET PLATE - ROAD & RACE VERSIONS
1
SPLINED CAMPLATE CENTRE - ROAD & RACE *
1
RATCHET ARM CLAW - ROAD & RACE VERSIONS
No.1 SELECTOR FORK - 4TH/5TH GEARS M/S- ROAD & RACE
1
VERSIONS
No.2 SELECTOR FORK - 2ND GEAR LAYSHAFT - ROAD &
1
RACE VERSIONS
No.3 SELECTOR FORK - 1ST/3RD GEARS M/S- ROAD & RACE
1
VERSIONS
B
Road Delivered Rec’d
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
4
2
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1