SWEET DREAMS Payard`s Vision Becomes
Transcription
SWEET DREAMS Payard`s Vision Becomes
2 0 1 1 SWEET DREAMS Payard’s Vision Becomes Reality MASTERING THE MACARON Infinite Flavors and Colors CHOCOLATE AROUND THE CLOCK Time for Treats in Las Vegas PAYARD’S FAVORITE RECIPES From Savory to Sweet Francois Payard Confections Proudly Powered By Swede Farms Ingredients 201-862-9920 www.swedefarms.com Dear Friends, It’s human nature to look at something and see only what you are expected to see. A lot of pastry is about appearance. In my world, we like to say “First, you eat with your eyes.” But that doesn’t mean you should be disappointed when you actually take a bite. I can often “taste” something by just looking at it, knowing what is right—or wrong—with the end result. In the same respect, pastry chefs are often seen as just that: chefs who make desserts. But there’s so much more to it. For me, a pastry chef is first a chef who knows not only how to make the main course but also appetizers, and side dishes, and everything else too. He or she has to have a well-rounded knowledge of everything in the kitchen. More and more, I find that most pastry chefs today learn too quickly and end up not being able to execute everything well. Our job is about versatility—about being able to work with chocolate as well as knowing how to make pastries, viennoiseries, crêpes, savories, breads, verrines, and wedding cakes with perfect density. Pastry is about precision; so much so, that most French pastry shops refer to themselves as laboratoires. Using a scale to weigh out perfect measures of ingredients and being aware of their chemistry to achieve perfect textures and flavors takes dedication to the art and science of the craft. I am always in pursuit of perfection, whether in the form of the perfect macaron, the flakiest croissant, or the most velvety chocolate ganache. In this magazine, I open up my laboratoire to inspire you in the kitchen and to indulge your sweet or savory tooth. You’ll learn what is coming next from Payard, and why and how. And what you see on these pages will taste even better on the plate. CONTENTS 04 Payard’s Calendar The Payard Pastry Calendar is how Chef Payard likes to keep guests on their toes. At every holiday, clients have come to expect the unexpected dessert surprises that Payard dreams up. 05 SWEET DREAMS From opening the eponymous Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro to new projects around the world, François Payard is living a dream come true. 07 CHOCOLATE AROUND THE CLOCK It’s perfect timing in Las Vegas for François Payard, especially with his Willy Wonka-esque clock that shoots out chocolate truffles for guests to sample. 09 Payard on the Rise As François Payard has built a reputation in New York, international customers have taken notice. With two shops in Japan and four in Korea, it’s only the beginning for Chef Payard abroad. 10 MASTERING THE MACARON Although new to the United States, the sweet, and sometimes savory, macaron has been around for centuries in France. François Payard has made it his mission to make macarons a star in America. 11 RECIPES Payard shares some of his favorite recipes. 17 Creating Something Special For every event and holiday, François Payard and his team work to develop special flavors and creations to match the occasion. 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 03 Creating new pastries with interesting seasonal flavors throughout the year is what I love doing most and sharing with all of our clients. The Payard Pastry Calendar is how I like to keep people on their toes. Our clients are excited because they never know what to expect, and there’s always another holiday with new creations to look forward to—whether our classic Bûche de Noel yule logs with a fresh selection of flavors every holiday season or the one-of-a-kind Macaron Ice Cream Sandwiches that were a huge hit this summer. My goal is to innovate and create things that people will love and come back for again and again. january february march april Epiphany Galette des Rois Valentine’s Day Vanilla Rose Easter Bunny Cake Passover Chocolate Caramelized Matzoh may june july august Mother’s Day Fraisier Strawberry Cake Father’s Day Bourbon Truffle July 4th Passion fruitStrawberry Eclair Chocolate Brownie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream september october november december Rosh Hashanah Apple Honey Tart Halloween Pumpkin Macarons Thanksgiving Pumpkin Pie Tart Christmas Bûche de Noel François Payard is continually inspired by seasonal ingredients in creating his confections. Visit www.payard.com to discover exclusive recipes, sign up to receive news, and keep in touch with Chef Payard. 04 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D SWEET DREAMS After 15 years in business, the Payard brand continues to grow, with more storefronts on the horizon and an incredible downtown kitchen in constant motion—an around-the-clock staff shipping Payard creations all over the world. For François Payard, life is not only like a box of chocolates. It’s a dream come true. My dream always was to come to America to first learn English and then open my own store. I have a theory that if you stay in the United States for six months without becoming really homesick, you know you will probably stay. When I moved here, I enjoyed it so much I decided to make it my home. Even when I was working at Le Bernardin, I always had in the back of my mind that I would have my own store—which I eventually did with Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro. It was my dream come true, at least for the moment. But everybody has their own vision, and for me to stay true to mine I had to eventually buy out my partners so I could have creative control. Having a flagship store allowed me to make some bold and wonderful moves, like opening Payard in Las Vegas, Japan, and Korea. When we lost the lease of Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro 12 and a half years later, I knew it was time to rebuild, rebrand, and refocus. François Payard Bakery was born out of many different reasons. While I had originally wanted to create another restaurant, when I found this space downtown—with its incredible infrastructure, including an 8,000-square-foot kitchen—I decided to recreate a French bakery instead. Certainly the economy was a consideration too: offering incomparable quality at an affordable price was very important to me. It might look like we’ve downsized in terms of the vision of the original Payard brand, but we in fact made what we do accessible to a downtown audience. Here, I can offer the same Payard quality using a simpler approach to ingredients in a more rustic setting. Sure, you can get a croissant for the same price at a chain café down the street, but that is where the similarities end. Trust me! Here, I can create items I could never have offered at Payard—like the roule cake, or a simple flan that is so incredible it instantly resonates with anyone who remembers eating it when they were little. While it’s good to have something as fancy as Payard, it’s equally important to have a more casual setting too. And, believe it or not, it’s actually harder to create something that is not as “beautiful.” The kitchen is really amazing, but it is sometimes challenging to explain to customers who don’t see the chocolates in the bakery exactly what we are using it for. Every day, we get orders from our retail partners around the world—boxes for Japan, Las Vegas, and beyond—and this is where the magic happens. Of course, I have my heart set on opening another uptown Payard location very soon; but in the meantime, our customers can always visit our pied-à-terre, FC Chocolate Bar in the Plaza Hotel. This fall, we will open another bakery on the corner of the Goldman Sachs building in Battery Park City, much like the original François Payard Bakery on Houston. We believe it will be a welcome addition to the neighborhood, and again the key will be affordability and quality. Early next year, we will unveil new packaging for the Payard chocolate line hand in hand with a new website. There will be a shocking new color scheme (think Hermès), but it will take the idea of receiving luxury gifts of chocolates to a whole new level. Rebranding our logo and look makes a lot of sense at this stage: keeping a company fresh is not just about the product line but also about product presentation. Looking back at the journey so far, my dream has taken some unexpected and surprisingly wonderful turns along the way. It has afforded me the opportunity to travel to amazing parts of the world and inspires me daily in my work in the kitchen. I have learned valuable lessons about the art of business. And if you consider me a control freak, it is because I understand the implications of not being careful with a brand, everything from design to final product. I have a tireless sense of achievement and, above all, a relentless passion to feed you some of the best chocolates in the world! 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 05 “my name is Vitalie. my legacy is taittinger. my passion is champagne.” ©2009 Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com – V i ta l i e ta i t t i n g e r V i ta l i e ta i t t i n g e r i s a n a c t i V e m e m b e r o f t h e fa m i ly c h a m pa g n e h o u s e . 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D PAYARD LAS VEGAS: A SURE BET Sometimes, the enormity of Las Vegas works against itself: you can lose yourself when everything is so huge. But if there is one place guests have found their way to in Sin City, it’s Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro in Caesars Palace. Everyone should be so lucky. Every 15 minutes, the Payard chocolate clock shoots out truffles for customers to sample. This is our most beautiful store by far, and I have to admit: only a hotel could have something like this in it. I am in Las Vegas every month so I know the city and most of the hotels very well. But even for me, every time I walk into Payard it takes my breath away. At 300 feet long, the store is well laid out, offering everything from ice cream and crêpes to pastries and savory items with a separate chocolate shop. Every morning, it is packed 60 people deep with a line twisting deep into the heart of the convention center. The restaurant is tiny, but again so beautiful—like a little jewel box. The décor is charming, with the kitchen right there in the middle, so that every one of the 42 seats is the best seat in the house for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I spent a lot of time on the design elements. Sometimes, the enormity of Las Vegas works against itself: you can lose yourself when everything is so huge. You have these amazing restaurants that look incredible but are run like factories. People like us because of our size and also our commitment to affordability. The economy has changed the way people eat even in Las Vegas. What we do at our prices puts us in a completely different bracket. Payard Express is located in the hotel lobby in a space I fought for a year to get! The design element had to blend with the overall hotel aesthetic as far as its shape and color scheme, but that concession was a small price to pay for the location. It’s the perfect spot to stop by before going to see a show like Celine Dion. And it’s open 24 hours on Saturday. I have a wonderful team at Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro, run by my General Manager Michele Re. The restaurant’s chef de cuisine is Adil Slassi, and Enrique Aranda is pastry chef. 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 07 Chef Adil Slassi, Chef de Cuisine A Moroccan native, Adil Slassi grew up immersed in a world of rich, traditional cuisine central to daily life between Spain and France. Being from a former French colony, and miles from southern Spain, he always had an appreciation for Mediterranean cuisine. Slassi moved to Seattle in 1998 to study commercial aviation but then decided to follow a more creative path within the culinary world. Over the next few years, working in Mediterranean-influenced and French restaurants from Seattle to Southern California, he continued to perfect his techniques and recipes. Slassi found himself at Wynn Las Vegas a couple of years later, where among other endeavors he opened the Mediterranean-themed restaurant Lavo at the Palazzo, as well as Terzetto at the M Resort. Currently with Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro at Caesars Palace, Slassi brings with him his wealth of knowledge in Mediterranean cuisine, particularly Spain’s Andalusian region, as well as the classic French dishes for which the bistro is famous. R oasted C hicken with olive and preserved lemon jus Serves 4 For the chicken 2 whole chickens kosher salt and black pepper 1 whole garlic clove, crushed rosemary thyme method Debone two whole chickens making sure to leave only the drumstick, wing bone, and lower leg bone. French cut the shown bones. You should now have four halves of chicken. Season the skin side of each half chicken with kosher salt and fresh course-ground black pepper. Marinade the meat side of the chicken with one crushed garlic clove, rosemary, and thyme. Wrap tightly using plastic wrap or a sealed vacuum-pack bag. Set aside for later use. 08 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D Preserved Meyer Lemons 2 whole Meyer lemons 4 tablespoons kosher salt 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 tablespoon whole coriander 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorn 3 whole bay leaves method Cut both ends of the lemons. Cut four slits into each lemon, making sure not to cut all the way through. Season each lemon with salt and sugar, making sure to get the salt and sugar inside the slits. In a vacuumpack bag or airtight container, add the lemons, coriander, black peppercorn, and bay leaves. Seal the bag or container and let set for a month in the refrigerator. Recipe Olive and Preserved Lemon Jus 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 whole carrot, roughly chopped 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped 2 peeled whole white onions, roughly chopped white portion of 2 baby leeks, cut in half 3 whole garlic cloves, crushed 2 cups good dry white wine 2 gallons chicken stock 1 bouquet garni of thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, and black peppercorn 4 baby leeks blanched in hot water then shocked in ice water method In a stockpot, heat the olive oil and add carrots, celery, onion, leek, and garlic. Cook until a nice dark golden brown color is achieved for all vegetables. Deglaze with white wine, reduce to sec, then add chicken stock. Add bouquet garni and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer until reduced by 1/4, resulting in a nice sauce consistency. Remove bouquet garni, strain through a fine-hole strainer, and set aside for service, when it will be finished with green olives, baby leeks, and preserved lemons. To Plate Season meat side of chicken with kosher salt and fresh course-ground black pepper. In hot sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and put chicken in pan skinside down. Place the pan in 375°F oven and cook for 25 to 30 minutes until chicken is fully cooked. When chicken is cooked, take it out of oven and put one pat of butter in the pan. Baste the chicken with the butter and oil sauce now in the pan and a sprig of thyme. Cut in half. Take only the zest from the preserved lemons and julienne. Next, julienne four green olives. Add to chicken jus and blanched baby leeks and heat. Arrange chicken breast topped with the leg and finish with preserved lemon and green olive chicken jus, then garnish with chopped chives. Payard Expands beyond Manhattan François Payard opened the doors of New York City’s Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro in 1997 and quickly became a valued part of the Upper East Side—and the rest of Manhattan. Loyal customers that came to Payard every morning for a coffee and croissant, and eager tourists in search of an authentic taste of Paris, could both be found huddled in front of the pastry cases, excited with the anticipation of tasting exactly what they were looking for. An international following subsequently grew, and it was only a matter of time before François Payard expanded. In 2007, opportunities arose in both Korea and Japan to expand the brand and reach new customers who had always displayed an affinity for the detailed designs of French pastry and chocolate locations in japan Ikebukuro Seibu Department Store B1F 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toyoshima-ku, Tokyo 171-8569 Yokohama Sogo Department Store B2F 2-18-1 Takashima, Nishi-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa 220-851 on which Payard has built his reputation. Special flavors such as sesame, rum raisin, and passion fruit were developed particularly for the tastes of the new clientele and have been featured at new Payard Boutiques. All of the chocolate is produced by Chef Payard in New York and shipped directly to the shops. Payard has continued to grow since 2007, and there are now two shops in Japan and four in Korea. It’s only the beginning for Chef Payard as he prepares for new ventures ahead of him— both abroad and in New York, where his journey first began. locations in korea Centum City Shinsegae Department store B1F 1495 U-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Gangnam Shinsegae Department store 2F 19-3 Banpo-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Myeong-dong Shinsegae Department store 6F, Trinity garden Chungmuro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul The Westin Chosun Hotel, Seoul 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 09 Macaron the François Payard has been making and perfecting macarons for a long time, and has done more than his part to spread the word of this often sweet—though sometimes savory—treat. I grew up on macarons. Everyone in my family made them, to cater to an American audience that is just now becoming although each person had a slightly different, sometimes even familiar with macarons, so I understand that savory ones secret, recipe. I have been making them in the States for years, can be a tough sell—but they are a lot of fun to come up with. and Payard was the first to sell them in the New York. I worked I made a special duck and chocolate macaron for the Chocolate on the Payard recipe for six months and eventually developed Show in Paris—even one with foie gras. And in Las Vegas I one based on Italian meringue (versus French meringue), created a macaron with squid ink, cream cheese, and olive which I found held up better, especially after being packaged. tapenade, served as a cheese course with gorgonzola ice cream Italian meringue gives the macaron a different texture and not and olive oil. as much air, so they are less fragile and less apt to crack in the box. After all, a broken macaron might taste the same but it is no longer as beautiful! Macarons may never become as popular in the U.S. as they are in France, but one thing is certain: I never get tired of creating new flavors, and I will always do my best to be the biggest I love the macaron because I think it is so versatile. Sweet or macaron ambassador outside of France. savory, macarons can be flavored with your imagination. I try Second Annual Macaron Day Held on March 20th, New York City’s second annual Macaron Day coincided with the Jour du Macaron in Paris, an event created by la Maison Pierre Hermé in association with Relais Desserts. In an effort to promote the macaron locally, François Payard organized the event last year, uniting bakeries around New York City and Brooklyn to give away macarons to their customers. For the past two years, a portion of macaron sales from the day has been donated to City Harvest, an organization that has been feeding the city’s homeless for more than 25 years. François is pleased with the success of this year’s event: “The idea is not to compare who makes the best macaron, but to 10 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D make New Yorkers aware of where they can buy them. Next year, I envision everyone on their bicycles, roaming the city, tasting all the macarons, and taking a little survey on their favorite flavors!” François created two special macaron collections for the event: the Trois Chocolat and the Spring Fruit Collection, still available online and featuring vanilla rose, cassis blueberry, and raspberry lychee macarons. For more event information and a list of participating bakeries, visit macarondaynyc.com. L eblon M acarons Acai and Lime Makes 2 dozen For Acai Macaron Shell 258 g (9 oz) acai juice 64 g (2.3 oz) heavy cream 145 g (5 oz) granulated sugar 26 g (1 oz) cornstarch 162 g (5.7 oz) white chocolate 120 g (4.2 oz) butter 210 g (7.4 oz) cachaça For Lime method 258 g (9 oz) lime juice zest of 4 limes 64 g (2.3 oz) heavy cream 145 g (5 oz) granulated sugar 26 g (1 oz) cornstarch 162 g (5.7 oz) white chocolate 150 g (5.3 oz) butter 290 g (10 oz) cachaça 1. Preheat oven to 160°C (320°F). method 500 g 150 g 165 g 565 g 500 g 200 g 1/4 tsp granulated sugar water egg whites confectioners’ sugar almond powder or almond flour egg whites purple or green coloring 2. Mix the sugar and water in a pot and bring to 121°C (250°F). 3. Whip first set of egg whites to a stiff meringue and add the sugar-water mixture. 4. In a separate bowl, whip the confectioners’ sugar, almond powder, second set of egg whites, and coloring until mixture is fluffy. 1. Mix acai or lime juice and zest in a pot with the heavy cream and bring to a boil. 5. Combine first and second mixtures and place in a piping bag. 2. Mix sugar and cornstarch in a separate bowl. 6. Line a cookie tray with one sheet of parchment paper. 3. When acai or lime juice and cream mixture has come to a boil, whisk in the sugar and cornstarch mixture. 7. Pipe batter into 1.5- to 2-inch circles (or any other desired size or shape). 4. Boil for 1 minute. 8. Bake in the center of the oven for approximately 14 minutes, making sure not to over bake. 5. Have white chocolate ready in a large bowl. 6. Remove the pot from the heat and pour into the bowl of white chocolate. 7. When the chocolate has melted and the mixture is at 65°C (150°F), mix in the butter and cachaça. 8. Let mixture sit and then refrigerate until mixture has partially solidified. History of the Macaron Move over cupcake, the macaron is making a bold appearance on the American dessert scene. But despite its recent success, it has been around for centuries! Though the macaron’s auspicious origins are subject to debate, it is believed that its French debut occurred in 1533 at the hands of the Italian pastry chefs Catherine de Medici brought with her when she arrived to marry Henry II of France. It was further brought into the spotlight in 1792, when two Carmelite nuns seeking asylum in Nancy during the French Revolution baked and sold macarons to support themselves, becoming known as “les soeurs macarons”—“the macaron sisters.” In the 1900s, Parisian pastry chef Pierre Desfountaines created the macaron as we know it today, taking two cookies and filling them with a ganache. Today, they remain a Parisian staple—traditional yet the talk of the town from the banks of the Seine to shores of the U.S. and the world over. 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 11 12 M ilk C hocolate T ruffles à l’A ncienne These truffles, unlike many others I make, do not contain alcohol. This special recipe is from my grandfather. The ganache is made without milk or cream; instead, it is made with fondant, which gives it a denser texture. The praline paste gives it an intense hazelnut flavor. Once shaped, the truffles are rolled in chocolate, then chopped almonds are added to the chocolate and the truffles are rolled in the mixture again, giving it a nice crunch. Makes about 50 truffles Truffles INGREDIENTS 3 oz (85 g) fondant 12 tbsp (6 oz or 165 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut in tablespoons 3/4 cup (165g) praline paste Coating INGREDIENTS 12 oz (360 g) milk chocolate, tempered 1/2 cup (70 g) almonds, toasted and finely chopped method 10 1/2 oz (300 g) milk chocolate, melted 1. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap. 2. Place the fondant in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and beat on low speed to soften it. Add the butter 1 or 2 tablespoons at a time, waiting until each amount is incorporated to add the next. Add in the praline paste and continue beating until well incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add the chocolate and mix until just combined. 3. Pour the ganache in the prepared baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until the ganache reaches pipeable consistency, about 1 hour, stirring about every 15 minutes. You want the ganache to have the consistency of a thick icing. 4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Fill a pastry bag or resealable plastic bag with the ganache, and cut a 1/4-inch opening in the tip or corner of the bag. Pipe the ganache into 3/4-inch mounds on the prepared baking sheet. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes, until the mounds are solidified enough to prevent the chocolate from melting when you roll them. Coat the truffles method 1. Pour the tempered chocolate into a medium bowl and line a baking sheet with waxed paper. 2. Using the palm of your hands, roll each mound into a uniformly round ball. With your fingers, dip them in the tempered chocolate to form a thin coating. Remove them to the prepared baking sheet and let them set, about 20 minutes. 3. Add the almonds to the remaining tempered chocolate. Using your fingers, roll the truffles in the chocolate again. Let them set, about 20 minutes. Store in an airtight container in a dry, cool environment for up to 1 month. These truffles are available at François Chocolate Bar located on the concourse level of The Plaza Hotel. 1 West 58th Street between 5th & 6th Avenues. Or visit www.fcchocolatebar.com. 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 13 Recipes R oasted S trawberry V errine A staple Payard creation, the Parisian verrine is a layered dessert stunningly showcased in a glass. Makes 12 verrines Mascarpone Mousse 80 g (2.8 oz) granulated sugar 80 g (2.8 oz) egg yolks 500 g (1.1 lbs) mascarpone 120 g (4.2 oz) egg whites 50 g (1.7 oz) granulated sugar method 1. Whip sugar and egg yolks on high speed for approximately 10 minutes, until mixture is combined well. 2. On a medium-slow speed, add the mascarpone to egg yolk and sugar mixture. 3. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites and slowly add the second granulated sugar to combine and form a firm meringue. 4. Slowly add the second mixture to the first. Biscuit Cuillère Makes 12 pieces 83 g (2.9 oz) pastry flour 83 g (2.9 oz) cornstarch 241 g (8.5 oz) egg whites 150 g (5.2 oz) granulated sugar 133 g (4.7 oz) egg yolks method 1. Mix together the pastry flour and cornstarch. 2. Whip the egg whites with the sugar to a firm meringue. 3. Add the egg yolks and mix once. 4. Add the pastry flour and cornstarch mixture to the eggs and mix to combine. 5. Bake at 230°C (440°F) for 3 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for another 3 minutes. Strawberry Juice 1 kg (2.2 lbs) strawberries 100 g (3.5 oz) granulated sugar 40 g (1.4 oz) granulated sugar (find exact amount by weighing strawberry mixture after first round of baking) basil leaves (optional) method 1. Cut strawberries in half. 2. Cook the strawberries with 100 grams (3.5 ounces) of granulated sugar for 1.5 hours at 100°C (212°F). 3. Remove the juice. 4. Weigh remaining strawberry mixture and measure out sugar that is 10 percent of the weight of the strawberry mixture (approximately 40 grams, or 1.4 ounces). 5. Add the additional sugar and cook the strawberries for another hour, then remove the juice. 6. Add basil leaves, if desired. 4. Slowly add the second mixture to the first. To Serve Place ingredients in glass verrine in order shown: Roasted strawberries Mascarpone mousse Biscuit cuillère soaked in strawberry juice Mascarpone mousse Biscuit cuillère soaked in strawberry juice Mascarpone mousse G âteau Lorraine French Angel Food Cake Makes 8 servings for the cake 2 0-cm (8-inch) 226 g (8 oz) 130 g (4.6 oz) 145 g (5.1 oz) 60 g (2.3 oz) 130 g (4.6 oz) 60 g (2.3 oz) cake mold (6 cm or 2–2.5 inches high) egg whites granulated sugar pastry flour granulated sugar room-temperature butter confectioners’ sugar method 1. Whip the egg whites to a firm meringue and gradually add the first set of sugar. 2. Sift the pastry flour with the second set of sugar. 3. Fold the pastry flour and sugar mixture into the whipped egg whites. 4. Fold in the room-temperature butter. 2011 5. Butter the cake mold and dust confectioners’ sugar over it. 6. Pour batter into cake mold. 7. Mix second granulated and confectioner’s sugar and sift over cake batter. 8. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for approximately 45 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 15 The conversaTion beTween chef and diner begins wiTh whaT’s on The plaTe ©2011 C-BON MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED iT conTinues in our magazines hautelifepress.com epicurean experiences 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D creating something special “I work hard to select events that are good for the Payard brand. It is a completely different world to create something for an event, rather than an item customers are coming in for day after day. It heightens my versatility as a chef.” Taste of Bordeaux Chefs Cook for Japan This past January, more than a dozen chateau owners from the region gathered in New York City to share their latest wines in a blind taste test led by Jean-Luc Le Dû, owner of Le Dû’s Wines and head sommelier at Daniel for 10 years, and George Sape, wine collector and maître of the NY Commanderie de Bordeaux. The vintages were paired with gourmet dishes as well as decadent chocolates created by François Payard, all inspired by the flavors of Bordeaux wines. “I spent a week preparing an incredible line of chocolates to match the wines. I sat down with Jean-Luc and George for a four-hour brainstorming session and asked them for the distinct flavors they recognize in the wines—like salt, cinnamon, licorice, and berries. Based on that, I prepared six chocolates. The idea is always to have the food accompany the wine, not overpower it. George mentioned he once had something with chocolate and blue cheese together, and that it was good because the saltiness of the blue cheese worked well with the chocolate. I loved the idea. We created truffles by first spreading out the ganache and then piping very creamy blue cheese onto it, before rolling each into a ball. It was a huge hit—the guests kept coming back for more of them.” NYC Cooks for Tohoku, Japan On July 3rd, François Payard joined a group of internationally renowned chefs led by Daniel Boulud to prepare lunch for 1,000 people in the city of Kamaishi, one of the areas most devastated by the earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011. Prepared almost exclusively with Japanese ingredients, the lunch was an expression of the chefs’ gratitude for the importance of Japanese cuisine on the world’s culinary culture, as well as a strong statement regarding food safety in Japan. In May, François Payard created four very special macarons at a special dine-around tasting in New York City hosted by Chef Masaharu Morimoto and featuring ten celebrity chefs to benefit the Japan Society’s Earthquake Relief Fund. One hundred percent of the proceeds were donated to the Japan Society. “I really wanted to highlight the unique ingredients of Japan with this collection. I created raspberry wasabi, matcha green tea, Japanese red bean, and black and white sesame macarons for the occasion. They are still available as a collection online for a limited time.” “I prepared three macaroons using Japanese ingredients, a roll cake with tofu, and an old-fashioned fruitcake. With this event, the goal was to show the world that it is safe to go to Japan and use Japanese ingredients. I think this is extremely important because it’s a lot easier to alarm people than send a message that everything is fine. Most people have issues of radiation poisoning stuck in their heads—they forget we have health concerns with ingredients stateside too. I have always used, and continue to use, many Japanese ingredients in my creations: tofu, green tea, black sesame, yuzu, ginger, even local apricots.” on the shelf Bite Size: Elegant Recipes for Entertaining by François Payard Simply Sensational Desserts: 140 Classics for the Home Baker from New York’s Famous Patisserie and Bistro by François Payard Chocolate Epiphany: Exceptional Cookies, Cakes, and Confections for Everyone by François Payard and Anne E. McBride 2011 • F RA N Ç O I S PAYA R D 17 HauteNotes Publisher Michael Goldman From the publisher, HauteNotes is about the discovery of all things innovative and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com. Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan HAUTEevents Farm Table at The Mansion Benefiting Bocuse D’or USA Foundation Judgment Of Paris Wine Event Farm Table at The Mansion is an elegant and unique chef’s dinner taking place on the Natirar Estate in Somerset County, New Jersey. The menu will be created and executed by renowned chefs Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse, chef-owners extraordinaire, who continually push the envelope on distinction in culinary culture. The dinner will benefit the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation. Visit meetatnatirar.com for more information. On May 24, 1976, a wine tasting took place in Paris that changed the world’s view of California wines forever. The French wines were first and other classified-growth red Bordeaux and white Burgundies. They were matched against California Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays. The tasting was blind, and the labels were revealed only after the jury of nine tasters had voted. The unthinkable happened. The 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon was judged the best. The 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from California bested its French counterparts. The impact of the tasting for California wines was immediate, catapulting California wines onto the world stage. On September 24, 2011, the MEET at Natirar event will include a tasting featuring the wines from the estates at the 1976 tasting along with a screening of the movie Bottle Shock, which documents the Judgment of Paris. Visit meetatnatirar.com for more information and tickets. HAUTEtaste Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Managing Editor Christian Kappner Assistant Editor Stephane Henrion Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Contributing Editors Pamela Jouan Photo Director Charles Harris Photography Barry Johnson Photos Courtesy of François Payard. Advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com The Chefs’ Warehouse Like Francois Payard, The Chefs’ Warehouse believes that high-quality ingredients are the fundamental base for all superior culinary creations. The Chefs’ Warehouse is proud to support Chef Payard with ingredients of the highest quality, sourced from around the world. The products below can be found at chefswarehouse.com. Marketing Director Katherine Payne HauteLife Press a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. 321 Dean Street Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217 Valrhona Caramelia TexturePro Knistazoon Terra Pampa Dulce de Leche Unlike caramel-flavored milk chocolates made with caramelized sugar, Valrhona Caramelia uses genuine dairy-based caramel as a main ingredient. The result is a particularly silky, smooth milk chocolate that maintains a clear cocoa note woven together with vibrant hints of caramel. TexturePro Knistazoon turns the popping candy of childhood into an adult delicacy. Ambush your senses with the unexpected sensation of Knistazoon mixed into chocolate, sprinkled over dessert or rimming your favorite cocktail. This treat is created from milk produced on a farm in the Argentine Pampas, fertile land providing the cows with the essential nutrients needed to produce the purest, creamiest milk. After the milk is obtained, skilled craftsmen mix each batch of dulce de leche according to a time-honored family recipe. The result is perfection! Locations payard.com www.hautelifepress.com info@hautelifepress.com Subscription Inquiries 718.858.1187 subscriptions@hautelifepress.com or visit www.hautelifepress.com Printed and bound in the U.S.A. HauteLife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. © 2011 All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. 116 West Houston Street New York, NY 10012 Tel. 212.995.0888 Goldman Sachs 200 West Street New York, NY 10281 The Plaza Hotel 1 West 58th Street New York, NY 10019 Caesars Palace 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South. Las Vegas, NV 89109 Tel. 212-986-9241 Tel. 702.731.7849 Payard Japan Payard Korea top l to r: the wine bar, brick oven pizza, the ocean Grill & oYSter bar, the plaza, the Grill & brick oven pizza, dumplinGS, SiGnature burGer, and todd enGliSh behind the the ocean Grill & oYSter bar. The Original New York Food Hall at New York’s best-loved hotel, The Plaza. There’s only one place in New York City where you can get flatbread pizzas, fresh pasta, sushi and sashimi, dumplings, burgers, sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken, seafood dishes, specialty desserts, along with an extensive wine menu: The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English. d i n i n G i m a r k e t i ta k e - o u t i e ve n t S i cat e r i n G i o n e we S t 59 t h S t r e e t i 212.98 6 .9 26 0 i t h e pl a z af o o d hall .com