Wild Side at Sella

Transcription

Wild Side at Sella

RockTopos
Rock Climbing Guide
Costa Blanca
Sella - Wildside
A free climbing guide provided by RockTopos
http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/
http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/
Published 2008 — Revision 2
RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
INFORMATION
English
All rights reserved. Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2008.
Every effort has been made to make this publication as accurate as possible however the information
provided is on an as-is basis. The descriptions of routes and the grades are recorded to assist the
climber to attempt routes within their ability. Where the correct route name is not known a substitute is
added in brackets ().
The publication of this topo does not imply any right of access or right to climb on this cliff.
The author does not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties
or property arising from the use of the information provided in this publication.
New information and updates to this guide are available at
If you have any comments, additional routes or corrections please e-mail these to
rocktopos@hotmail.com
INFORMACIÓN
Español
Todos los derechos reservados. © RockTopos 2006-2008 del copyright.
Se ha hecho todo tipo de esfuerzo de hacer esta publicación tan exacta como sea posible sin embargo
la información proporcionada está sobre una base básica. Las descripciones de rutas y de los grados
están registrados para ayudas al escalador ha realizar las rutas dependiendo de su habilidad. Donde el
nombre correcto de la ruta no se sabe un substituto se agrega en paréntesis ().
La publicación de este topo no implica el derecho al acceso o el derecho de subir en este acantilado.
El autor no responsabiliza por ningún tipo de dais a lesión, u otro tipo de danos, en escaladores, teresas personas o levantamiento de propiedades por el uso de la información proporcionado en esta publicación,
Para mas información y actualización de esta guía puedes encontrarla en:
Comentarios, rutas adicionales o correcciones:
rocktopos@hotmail.com
Page 2
Copyright © RockTopos 2008
Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
LOCATION
SITUACIÓN
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RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
English
This publication is a rock climbing guide to the Wildside sector at Sella in the Costa Blanca region of
Spain. Wildside is a large and impressive overhanging wall that is one of the steepest crags in the area
with hard climbs up pockets, tufas and walls. To appreciate the sector you really need to be climbing 7b
or above.
GENERAL APPROACH
Travel south from Calpe/Benidorm or north from Alicante along the A7 motorway. Take junction 66
signposted Villajoyosa to Sella village.
On reaching Sella, follow the road over the initial bridge and round to the right. At the left bend take the
wide road to the right first down and then pass the impressive cemetery and continue along the valley
to the end. Take the right fork and pass the Refugeo and the main climbing sectors. Keep going for 3km
along the track until Wildside is visible above the road and behind the trees. Park carefully on the bend,
or back up the road where it’s a bit wider. From the parking walk up the track to the first sharp bend.
From here find a track through the woods which leads easily to a scramble to below the wall.
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The wall is very steep and sheltered and will stay dry in all but the heaviest of rain although it may seep
if it has been very wet for a few days. It is north facing and gets very little sunshine so consequently can
be colder than other places. This does mean it’s a good choice in hot weather.
GEAR
All the routes are typically well protected by 10mm bolts and finish at good belays. Most belays now
have lower offs in place to avoid threading the rope. Generally a 60m rope is sufficient, although a few
When to Climb
Spring
Yes - if there was a few days of heavy rain the
tufas are prone to seepage.
Summer
Yes - in the shade but may be lacking in breeze so
may be uncomfortably hot and sweaty.
Autumn
Yes - same as Spring
Winter
Ok - may be cold.
Venue Aspect
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Sun or Shade
Very little sun
Wind
Not very much, it is quite sheltered
Wet weather
Yes - very steep so stays dry even in torrential
rain.
Seepage
After prolonged rain the tufas will seep and it
will take 3 or 4 dry days to be ok again.
Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
► Richard Davies at the mid-height rest on
La Hora de Millau, 7c.
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RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
□
1. Black is Black........................................ 7b
25m. The furthest most left route starts by climbing the large twin tufas to their top (rest) and then move
rightwards to gain a good hold and follow a line of flakes to the first lower-off.
F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990’s
□
2. Watermark ............................................. 8a+
38m. Midway between Black is Black and Ya Somos, climb up a vague crack and thin tufas. To the first
lower-off is an excellent 8a.
F.A. Mark Edwards, 1991
□
3. ?? .......................................................... ?
22m. Climb very thin tufas up the wall to the right until forced right to the belay of Ya Somos Olímpicos.
□
4. Ya Somos Olímpicos ........................... 7b+
A superb route up overhanging tufas which can be led in one mega 40m pitch from the ground.
1) 22m. 7b+, Climb the tufas starting on the right. Direct is a little harder.
2) 22m. 7a+, Continue up the steep corner above.
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Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
F.A. J M Garcia, 1990’s
□
5. Propiedad Privada ................................ 7a+
14m. Right of Ya Somos Olímpicos, a short route up the steep tufas with a hard move using a mono to
gain the belay in the blank wall.
F.A. S M Sanchez, 1990’s
□
6. Propiedad Privada Continuidad .......... 8a
30m. Keep going straight up the wall above. An excellent pitch.
□
7. Nameless ............................................... 7b
20m. Follow the obvious line curving rightwards to join Keep the Faith at the mid-height belay.
F.A. Mechas,Sulcina, 1990’s
□
8. Keep the Faith ....................................... 7c
20m. Follows the overhanging ramp line with a crux on smooth rounded tufas and pockets. Either split
at a mid-height lower-off or continue to the top at a soft 7b.
F.A. D Lyon and C Greatwich
□
9. Cuestión de Estilo ................................ 7c
24m. The steep crack-line ands tufas to the right has a hard crux low down. Use your first two fingers in
an upside down pocket to pass this and continue to a belay half-way up the crack. Low in the grade.
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RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
□
10. Dosis .................................................... 8b+
24m. A very difficult line up the smooth overhanging wall using the left most smooth tufas that run down
the orange rock.
□
11. Dosis direct ........................................ 8c
25m. The thinner tufa and (chipped) pockets just to the right of Dosis.
F.A.
□
12. Pinoreta ............................................... 8c
24m. This takes the big tufa to the roof and then thin tufas and small pockets in the wall to gain the
obvious hole higher up the wall. Continue more easily.
F.A. Dani Andrada 4/10/2006
□
13. Espasiometria..................................... 8b
24m. A variant on Ergometria. Move left through the initial bulge to join that route. Move out left and
again rejoin the route just before the belay.
F.A.
□
14. Ergometría ........................................... 8a
26m. A classic 8a with steep pumpy moves up rounded pockets and tufas. Tackle a boulder-problem
start to a hands off rest. Good holds lead up the steepening wall to a hard move left into the upper
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Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
groove. There’s a hands off rest in the scoop which is recommended before taking the top bulge and
final move to the belay.
□
15. ?? ........................................................ 8b+
20m. Start a few metres to the right and climb the initial wall trending slightly leftwards. Move almost
into Ergometria before stepping back right and tackling a line of thin tufas up the steep wall above.
□
16. ?? ........................................................ 8b
20m. Start up Oceano to that routes belay and then take the wide roof directly above this via some very
thin tufas.
□
17. Océano ................................................ 7b
16m. Follow pockets and tufas up the wall go reach a poor rest in a break below an obvious tufa. Sprint
up this and leftwards into the corner or as an easier alternative step right into a crack to the big hole
before moving left to the belay under the roof.
F.A. A Gomez 1990’s
□
18. Océano continuation .......................... 8a
25m. From the big hole pull up to the edge of the roof and continue up the headwall above.
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RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
□
19. El último Mono .................................... 8b
32m. A stunning line up some vague tufas, all the way to the top.
□
20. ?? ......................................................... 8b
32m.
F.A.
□
21. Privatizacion ........................................ 8a+
24m.
F.A.
□
22. ?? ........................................................ 8a+
24m. The pocketed lower wall has a hard move. Pull though the bulge to a further hard move next to
the long sling.
F.A.
□
23. Nido Amoroso (left) ............................. 7c+
28m. Climb the pockets to below the bulge—the left-hand finish provides a 7c+ option.
□
24. Nido Amoroso (right) .......................... 7b+
28m. At the bulge pull rightwards on excellent jugs until a difficult step up completes the line.
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Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
□
25. Nido Amoroso (in-direct) .................... ?
28m. Using the same start continue more direct up some tufas. Pull left through the bulge to join the
normal route. A very recent addition.
F.A.
□
26. La Criatura........................................... 8b
30m. An interesting (and big) pitch, despite 3 glued-on stones. The second bolt is very high.
F.A. A Gomez, 1990’s
□
27. Septiembre .......................................... 8b+
28m. Climb the twin tufas to a roof then pull over this to finish.
□
28. Sweet Lady .......................................... 8a
28m. Start just right of a corner/ramp and climb up to the blank headwall. A strange start and a boulder problem finish.
□
29. Dimensión Diamante .......................... 8a+
28m. Another excellent route. Climb past another long sling to a slot then continue, finishing up a left-
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RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
facing groove near the top of the wall.
□
30. El Club de la Luncha ........................... 8b+
25m. Take the line through the roof and up the blue tufa running up the centre of the bulging wall.
F.A.
□
31. ?? ........................................................ 8a+
25m. Climb to below the right side of a small roof—go right to past this and take the centre of the orange wall which has two hard crux moves. Finish over the roof.
F.A.
□
32. El Gremio ............................................. 7c+
28m. A good but imbalanced climb up the blue streak with a hard move at mid-height. The middle hard
section can be bypassed by stepping onto the right wall at a slightly easier grade.
F.A. L Birch, J M Garcia, 1990’s
□
33. El Pito Del Sereno .............................. 7c+
28m. An undercut and a pocket mark the bouldery start . This leads to a no-hands rest. Step right and
pull up sloppy holds and step left. A couple of rockovers gain better holds. There’s a final hard move
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Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
using sharp holds to reach the belay.
□
34. La Hora de Millau ................................ 7c
26m. Struggle up the ‘inverted-V' tufa and move out left to a good rest. Steady climbing leads up sloping ledges rightwards to gain the left side of the large flake. Hardest at the start but sustained with a
tricky upper move. Low in the grade.
F.A. Francesses, 1990’s
□
35. El Puto Lastre...................................... 7c+
22m. Climb a shallow groove and move right onto the wall. A desperate move (crux) using a tiny edge
gains a respite. A further hard move on a pinch leads to a rest at the base of the tufas. Steep moves on
good holds lead to the big flake above. Take this on it’s right side.
□
36. ?? ........................................................ 7c
22m. Start a few metres to the right and climb to a good hold. Continue up the thin wall above to reach
sloping ledges and short left facing corner. Follow this, step right and gain good holds on the top of the
last flake and swing left (pumpy) before moving up to the belay under the roof.
F.A.
□
37. La Forqueta Del Diablo o Romocop... 8a+
26m. The line takes slight weakness in the lower wall and some sloping ledges to reach twin thin tufas
up the steep headwall. This being the crux.
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RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
F.A. Pep Ginestar, 1990’s
□
38. Celia ..................................................... 8a/7c+
26m. A fine line finishing up the large tufa via steep and powerful moves. The lower part is only 7b+ to a
very good rest at half height. Top end 7c+ or low 8a.
F.A. Pep Ginestar, 1990’s
□
39. ?? ........................................................ 8a
30m. Start up the shallow groove. When it steepens pull up and left to virtually join Celia. Then take the
big but very steep corner above.
F.A.
□
40. ?? ........................................................ 7c+
30m. Start as for the last route but when it steepens move diagonally right across the wall to gain some
tufas and move up to the belay below the roof. Some chipped holds.
F.A.
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Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
□
41. Como tu Bautizo ................................ 7b
25m. Take the bulge and follow a diagonal line leftwards up good tufas to the belay below the upper
roof.
F.A.
□
42. ?? ........................................................ 7c
25m. Take the left pocketed line through the bulge (past an in-situ quickdraw) and continue up a blunt
arête above. The crux move being at the top.
F.A.
□
43. ?? ........................................................ 6c+
20m. The warm-up climbs the steep bulge to good holds. Two poor sloping holds lead into the crack
and up to the big flake. Scramble across the ledge to below a wide cave. Pull up to the belay on the lip.
Most people will find themselves well warmed up!
10m. The continuation from the belay to the top of the crag (much harder) and in the region of 7c.
F.A.
Page 15
RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
□
44. Llanuras Bélicas.................................. 7b
25m. The blue water streak and tufas on the left edge of the wall. Pull over the initial bulge to below the
tufas. The crux is getting established above this. Take the upper bulge on the right.
F.A. Goicoetxea, N Sanchez, 1990’s
□
45. Todos Los Caminos ............................ 7b
25m. A very good route up the vague tufa corner system in the centre of this wall. The initial bulge is
hard. Continue up the corner to gain good holds at the top. Move right and then back left to gain excellent flakes and jugs in the upper part.
□
46. Si Te Dicen Que Caí ............................ 7a+
25m. Climb up to the prominent corner which gives intricate climbing. Move right to the arête at the top
which brings respite from the bridging.
Page 16
Sella - Wildside
RockTopos
Page 17
RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
ESPACIO TIEMPO 8B+/8C SELLA 1ª TOMAS R.
LA BUENA VIDA 8C/8C+ 1ª IVAN H.
PINTORETA 8C SELLA 1ª DANI A.
BULLARENQUE 8C SELLA 1ª IVAN H.
LA CACHONDA 8C SELLA 1ª IVAN H.
EJECUCION RADICAL 8C+ SELLA 1ª IVAN H.
ESPACIO EN EL OCEANO 8C+ SELLA 1ª RAMON J.
VARIANTE TALIVAN 8C SELLA 1ª IVAN H.
8a+
Sella menos salvaje
2009-01-05
Iván Hernández
8b+
Una tia en el espacio
2008-12-13
Iván Hernández
8c
Miss septiembre
2008-11-23
Iván Hernández
8b+
El club de los valientes
2008-11-05
Iván Hernández
7c+
Encadena2
2008-09-15
Iván Hernández
8a
La cruzada
2008-09-15
Iván Hernández
8a
Cantabrico
2008-09-08
Iván Hernández
7b
Como tu bautizo
2008-09-08
Iván Hernández
7c+
La cara del obispo
2008-09-01
Iván Hernández
lo duro de las
dos
8b
Vida en sella
2008-07-23
8a+
El viaje de chihiro
2008-07-23
Iván Hernández
8b
Sella salvaje
2008-07-09
Iván Hernández
8b
Espaciometria
2008-06-15
Iván Hernández
8a
Les gitanos del arc
2008-03-26
7c+
Valium
2008-03-15
8b
Espametria
2007-05-09
Iván Hernández
Micha Vanhoudt
2 pegues EquiJj Gonzalez
pat per mí.
Iván Hernández
con 5 grados y
nevando vaya
churra
Equipada por
mi
8c
Pint2is
2007-01-26
7c+
El puto lastre
2007-01-13
8a+
Proyecto ivan
2006-11-28
8a+
El torbes san juanero
2006-10-28
Iván Hernández
7c
Olimpicos privados
2006-10-28
Iván Hernández
8c
Pintoreta
2006-10-04
Dani Andrada
8b+
I van 20 años
2006-09-20
Iván Hernández
8a
El Pequeño zuriyoda
2006-09-14
Iván Hernández
8a+
Tirali valent
2006-09-14
Iván Hernández
Page 18
2 intents
Iván Hernández
Jj Gonzalez
Ramón Julian
Puigblanque
Sella - Wildside
Grade
Route Graded List
8c
□
Dosis Variante
8b+
□
Septiembre
8b
□
8a+
□
La Forqueta Del Diablo o Romocop
8a
□
Ergometria
7c+
7c
7b+
□
□
□
□
□
□
7a+
□
□
□
□
□
7a
□
7b
RockTopos
Celia
El Pito Del Sereno
El Gremio
Cuestión de Estilo
La Hora de Millau
Ya Somos Olímpicos
Black is Black
Todos Los Caminos
Llanuras Bélicas
Océano
Si Te Dicen Que Caí
Page 19
RockTopos
Sella - Wildside
RockTopos climbing guides are intended to provide documented information, directions and route
descriptions for the rock climbing at the cliff or area covered by the guide.
The guides are intended to supplement the local published guide books to these climbing areas.
These guides will be updated to reflect the addition of new routes and to provide current access
details.
RockTopos guides may be obtained by free download from the Internet.
RockTopos guides may be distributed free of charge after obtaining permission from the author.
A free rock climbing guide provided by RockTopos
Page 20

Wild Side at Sella

Transcription

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