Fish Diseases.wps

Mouth Fungus
Treatment for Mouth Fungus: One day, you’re faced with one of your fish, who has patches of white fuzzy stuff on him and
you start thinking to yourself, ” I need some medicine quick to kill this fungus, because if it’s white and fuzzy, then it must be a
fungus, right?!” Wrong! White fuzzies that occur on otherwise normal skin and fins of a fish are much more likely to be due to
a Flexibacter infection, which is a bacterial infection and not a fungal one. True fungus (Saprolegnia) can appear on open, raw
or wounded areas, that is, it grows on dead tissue and it is seen much less often in the hobby than a Flexibacter infection is.
The majority of fish medications with the word “Fungus” in their title actually contain antibiotics to kill bacteria! The fish drug
companies know that most things white and fuzzy are not due to a fungus but rather are due to Flexibacter and although they
give you the correct drug to treat the problem, they perpetuate the myth that all things white and fuzzy must be due to a fungus!
Treatment Options
The treatment of Flexibacter is best accomplished by feeding medicated food,
containing oxytetracycline, tetracycline or kanamycin. Other antibiotic-laced
foods may contain antibiotics, to which Flexibacter is resistant, such as
ormetoprim and sulfadimethoxine, so, substitutes are not acceptable. The
unfortunate problem with this disease is that the infected fish rapidly
becomes ill and stops eating, especially if it has “Mouth Fungus”,
therefore, treating with medicated food may not be an option.
Antibiotics in the water would be the next treatment option. It is best to perform this type of antibiotic
treatment in a separate “hospital” tank as this removes the sick fish from the healthy ones in the main
tank, does not unnecessarily expose the healthy fish to antibiotics and medication costs will be lower when
treating in a smaller tank. However, if multiple fish are infected in the main tank, then it may need to be
treated. Kanamycin
(Kanaplex, Kanacyn) daily in the water is a great first
choice for treating Flexibacter and it usually does not harm the biological
filter (the “good guy” bacteria). As an alternative, erythromycin (plain
Maracyn) or tetracycline can be used. When using either erythromycin or
tetracycline in an established (“cycled”) tank, be sure to watch your water
parameters, as these two antibiotics may harm the biological filter. Likewise,
nitrofurazone (Fungus Eliminator) works well against Flexibacter but can
harm the bio filter. Cephalexin (Keflex, Velosef) can be used at the rate of
250 mg per 10 gallons daily preceded by a 25% water change but this
cephalosporin antibiotic is harmful to the biological filter. For those
fishkeepers living outside of the United States, who are unable to obtain the
antibiotics mentioned, then either Waterlife’s Myxazin or Interpet’s AntiFungus and Finrot would be the best treatment to choose. Other antibiotics,
which may be effective against Flexibacter are nifurpirinol, acriflavine,
chloramphenicol and malachite green. Disinfectant dips, such as with
quaternary ammonium, and prolonged immersion in potassium permanganate
or copper sulfate have been advocated.
Aeromonas, another gram-negative bacterium ubiquitous to one’s tank, often
infects a Flexibacter-infected fish at the same time (secondary bacterial
infection) and is thought to be the cause of death in many cases of Flexibacter
infection. Therefore, treatment should also be aimed at this bacterium. If you
are already using kanamycin (Kanacyn) in the water to treat the Flexibacter, it
will also treat the Aeromonas. If you are alternatively using either
erythromycin (plain Maracyn) or tetracycline, then treat simultaneously with
minocycline (Maracyn-Two) for the Aeromonas. Both kanamycin and
minocycline are antibiotics, which are considered not to be harmful to the
biological filter, but at high dosages, kanamycin can harm the bio filter.
Be sure to remove all activated carbon when treating with antibiotics in
the water. All antibiotic treatment should be continued for a minimum of
10 days and the decision for treatment beyond 10 days will depend upon
how well one’s fish is recovering.
Bring the water temperature down in the main tank until it is at 75-76ºF
(24ºC), to slow the growth of Flexibacter. The water temperature in the
hospital tank must not go above 76ºF (24ºC) for the duration of
treatment. Additionally, increasing aeration, which improves oxygenation
in the tank, will help to provide conditions less suitable for Flexibacter.
In short, treatment for a Flexibacter infection in a hospital tank would look
like the following…
•
Feed medicated food containing
oxytetracycline, tetracycline
or kanamycin.
Kanamycin (Kanaplex or Kanamycin) daily in the water for both
Flexibacter and Aeromonas. As an alternate choice, Maracyn
(erythromycin) for Flexibacter and Maracyn-Two (minocycline) for
Aeromonas can be used in the water. Overseas fishkeepers can use
either Waterlife’s Myxazin or Interpet’s AntiFungus and Finrot.
• Decrease the temperature to 75-76ºF and no higher.
• Increase aeration.
•
While care should always take place when treating sick fish, this strain of
Flexibacter cannot be transmitted to humans.
Flexibacter columnaris, most recently named Flavobacterium columnare, is a bacteria that grows in layers, one on top of the
other, giving it the appearance of “columns” or “haystacks” under the microscope and this is what gives us the white fuzzy look
with our naked eye. Flexibacter
is a thin gram-negative rod bacterium that is an
ubiquitous organism, meaning that it is ever-present in one’s tank water,
though the organism will only cause disease in fish that are undergoing
stress.
The specific conditions and stressors identified as setting up the right conditions for a Flexibacter infection are:
1. Sudden increases in water temperature.
2. Overstocking.
3. Infrequent water changes.
4. Low water oxygen (O2) content.
5. Elevated nitrite levels.
6. Uneaten food in the tank, which supports growth of Flexibacter.
In general, poor water conditions will pave the way for a Flexibacter infection, so regular maintenance with partial "water
changes are a must for a healthy tank.
Mouth Fungus: The white patches often have a reddish rim around them and within 24 hours, they can quickly form an ulcer
(raw open area in the skin), which is shaped like a circle and then it enlarges. The ulcers may sometimes have a yellow or
orange color to them due to the piling of pigmented bacteria upon each other. If an ulcer penetrates into the body deeply, this
leads to septicemia. The symptoms of a Flexibacter infection may include sluggish activity and a poor to absent appetite. The
treatment of Flexibacter is best accomplished by feeding medicated food, containing oxytetracycline, tetracycline or kanamycin.
Other antibiotic-laced foods may contain antibiotics, to which
Flexibacter is resistant, such as ormetoprim and
sulfadimethoxine, so, substitutes are not acceptable. The unfortunate
problem with this disease is that the infected fish rapidly becomes ill and stops eating, especially if it has “Mouth Fungus”,
therefore, treating with medicated food may not be an option.
Freshwater Velvet
Velvet (Oodinium or Piscinoodinium) is caused by a parasite that attaches to
the outside of your fish, on its’ skin and gills. Piscinoodinium limneticum is
the the type of Velvet infecting aquarium fish in North America, while
Piscinoodinium pillulare infects those in Europe and Malaysia. The most
susceptible fish to Velvet infections are the anabantids (e.g. bettas and
gouramis) and cyprinids (e.g. barbs, danios and rasboras). Fry and tadpoles
are particularly susceptible to it. Many cases of unexplained fish death can be
attributed to Velvet heavily infesting the gills, that you usually cannot see
easily with the naked eye.
A flashlight and magnifying glass can assist you in seeing the Oodinium
parasite. Shine the light on the fish's body and if it looks like it is covered
with a fine gold or rusty mist or with a yellow-grayish powdery coating, then
this is likely Velvet. By the time that a fish shows the characteristic gold or
rust-colored coating, it is heavily infested.
A fish with Velvet will eventually act sick, have clamped fins, scratch against
rocks, gravel or tank walls (flashing), have a loss of appetite and may lay
motionless.
Treatment
The entire tank needs to be treated when treating for Velvet. A “white
spot” remedy such as RidIch+ should be used. Maracide may be used for
small fry and is usually effective with bettas. When using RidIch+,
always precede each daily dosage with a 25% water change, be sure that
your water parameters (pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels) are
normal and follow all pertinent instructions included with the medication
that you have chosen. Continue the treatment for three days after the
coating has completely disappeared and typically treatment should last
for as long as 10-14 days. Reducing light in the tank helps to kill Velvet.
Do not share equipment such as nets, between your tanks, to avoid
spreading this parasite.
Pop-eye
Some day you may find, as you are staring into your favorite fish’s adorable
eyes, that *gulp* one of his eyes is HUGE! Your fish is most likely suffering
from pop-eye, which is also known by the medical term, exophthalmus.
Humans with an over active thyroid can have exophthalmus and if you
remember Marty Feldman from the movie “Young Frankenstein”… he had
pop-eye! Some fish, such as the Black Moor, normally have eyes that are
bulging or “telescoping” and this is not considered to be pop-eye. Pop-eye is
not a disease itself, but rather it is a sign of some underlying problem.
The signs of pop-eye are that one or both eyes start to bulge out. Over the
next week, the eye may bulge out even more and sometimes to the point that
your once adorable fish is really quite grotesque to look at (the infamous
Quasimodo stage!).
You may see a large ring of white “skin” around the base of the eye. This
tough tissue, that helps to hold the eye in its’ socket, is being stretched as the
eye bulges. Your fish may show other symptoms such as being less active and
not eating well.
The eyes bulge out abnormally in pop-eye because of an accumulation of
fluid either in the eye itself or behind the eye. The many causes of pop-eye
include infections from bacteria, viruses and parasites, as well as from water
nitrogen supersaturation (gas bubble disease), water quality problems,
tumors, internal (metabolic) disorders and nutritional deficiencies. Treatment
of pop-eye is based on identifying and treating the underlying problem.
Gas Bubble Disease is a result of supersaturation (excess levels) of the water
with the gas, nitrogen. Supersaturation occurs whenever the pressure of a gas
in the water is higher than the pressure of the same gas in the surrounding
atmosphere. When there is this difference between gas pressures, the gas gets
pulled too quickly out of the bloodstream, leaving gas bubbles behind. This is
what happens to SCUBA divers who ascend too quickly and create a big
difference in gas pressures, which leads to the diver getting gas bubble
formation or the “bends”. In fish, gas bubbles can accumulate behind the eye,
making it bulge outward.
Water in a newly filled tank will be supersaturated with gases and you will
see the gas bubbles covering the inside of the tank. The more that the water is
agitated as you are pouring it in for the first time, the less supersaturation you
will have. Agitation of water releases gas from it. Normal aeration will speed
up the time that it takes for this excess gas to leave the water. When the
bubbles on the tank disappear, then it is safe to put your fish into the new
water.
High-powered powerheads, that shoot streams of air into your tank’s water,
can lead to nitrogen supersaturation. Treatment in this circumstance would be
to turn down the powerhead water stream adjustment to its’ lowest setting
and allow the air pump to be the only source of air. For the next few days,
observe your fish. If the pop-eye starts to go away, then it was due to nitrogen
supersaturation. If there is no change or the condition worsens, then the popeye is most likely due to an infectious cause and probably a bacterial one.
An excess of nitrogen gas can also occur as a result of a large build-up of
nitrites and nitrates in the water and has been seen in deep wells and frozenover ponds and lakes, but probably does not happen to a significant degree in
the aquarium. It is always important however to maintain excellent water
quality for your fish. Under normal circumstances, there should be no
measurable nitrites and the nitrates should be kept at 20 ppm or lower for all
but the most sensitive species.
The bacterial causes may manifest themselves as septicemia from such
organisms as Aeromonas, Pseudomonas and Edwardsiella, all gram-negative
rod bacteria. To diagnose septicemia, you should look for red blotches or red
streaks on the body and fins. Bloody splotches at the base of the pectoral fins
are often the first indication of septicemia. It is when the bacterial infection
attacks the internal organs that the eyes begin to collect fluid. If your fish is
still eating, treat by feeding antibiotic food. The most effective medicated
food is Medi-Gold, which contains three antibiotics, including kanamycin.
Romet B and Tetra medicated food for bacterial infections are alternatives to
use, but the Tetra brand food may be less effective due to bacterial resistance
that has developed to its’ antibiotic, tetracycline. If your fish has stopped
eating or seems to be quite sick even with medicated food, then he should be
treated with antibiotics in the water. The antibiotics kanamycin (Kanacyn) and
minocycline (Maracyn-Two) have gram-negative rod bacterial coverage and
can be used to treat septicemia.
Other bacterial causes of pop-eye are from Mycobacteria (fish TB) and
Nocardia. Fish infected with these bacteria tend to waste away and may have
open ulcers on their bodies. Few studies have been performed to determine
There has been some
reported success with minocycline (Maracyn-Two)
and kanamycin (Kanacyn). Interestingly, minocycline
which antibiotic is best to treat fish TB.
successfully treats Mycobacterium marinum (fish TB)
in humans!
Viral causes of pop-eye have been identified in the fishing industry in channel
These viral diseases cannot be
treated with medication and all fish must be
destroyed, as it is very contagious. Even the survivors of these
catfish, trout and salmon.
viral diseases are destroyed because they then become carriers of the virus
with the potential to spread it to healthy fish.
Pop-eye is very rarely a result of such parasites as Ichthyophonus and flukes.
The fungal-like organism, Ichthyophonus hoferi, formerly known as
Ichthyosporidium, is not the same as Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis). The
Swinging Disease or
Tumbling Disease, as fish infected with it rock, sway
and even tumble as they swim. No treatment is known
and affected fish should be removed from the
aquarium and destroyed. Eye flukes (Diplostomum) cause the eye
disease that it causes is known as
to become cloudy, on occasion to bulge and often leads to blindness. This
parasitic infection can only result from a fish being exposed to an
intermediate host in its’ life cycle and usually that’s a snail.
An inadequate diet may result in pop-eye. In this circumstance, you would
also expect to see other signs of severe starvation or malnutrition, such as
curvature of the spine. It is important to provide a varied diet to meet the
nutritional requirements of your fish. Remember that flake and freeze-dried
foods provide moderate nutritional adequacy, pellet and frozen foods provide
high adequacy and live foods provide the highest.
Pop-eye may be seen with dropsy, which is a condition in which fluid
accumulates in the abdomen as a result of dysfunction of the internal organs.
A fish’s scales will stick out and away from the body, giving it a “pinecone”
appearance. Also, the underside or belly may look swollen in dropsy. This
condition is very often fatal yet some within the goldfish community boast
success when treating dropsy in its’ earliest stages. This treatment includes
treating your fish for the first three days with a medication, such as Rid-Ich+,
for external parasites in a hospital tank. This is then followed by rapidly
raising the water temperature to 86*F, using extra aeration to keep the oxygen
levels high and treating for a bacterial infection as outlined above for
septicemia (e.g. feed Medi-Gold and/or use Kanacyn or Augmentin in the
water), for as long as 2-4 weeks. Epsom salts are to be used at the rate of
1/8 of a teaspoon per five gallons of water to reduce swelling. Do not use
aquarium or other similar salts as this may worsen the swelling.
A bulging eye may be seen as a result of injury. If both eyes are affected, then
trauma is unlikely to be the cause.
Finally, pop-eye can very rarely be the result of a tumor, located behind the
eye, pushing it outwards.
The good news is that pop-eye is not often fatal, especially if given proper
treatment. Pop-eye will sometimes even go away on its’ own with no
treatment. As pop-eye is generally not very contagious, one fish expert, Dr.
Chris Andrews, recommends observing your fish with pop-eye, while left in
the main tank, to see if he gets better on his own or not. If the other
previously healthy fish in the tank begin to get pop-eye, he then recommends
isolation and treatment of the affected fish. I would advise that you search
carefully for the cause of the pop-eye as discussed in this article and treat
accordingly. If you cannot figure out the cause, then I recommend treatment
with either Kanacyn or Maracyn-Two, for a possible bacterial infection, in a
separate hospital tank. While the main tank may be treated with these
antibiotics without harming its’ biological filtration, treating in a hospital tank
allows you to isolate the sick fish from the others and medicating a smaller
tank means lower medication costs.
Even with proper treatment, your fish may be left with a grotesque eye and
fish have even been known to “lose” the eye, that is, the eye becomes
detached from its’ socket. Losing an eye is not necessarily traumatic for a
fish. Fish can live a relatively normal life with just one eye, except that they
can have problems with depth perception, that is, knowing how close or how
far things are away from them. This can make swimming and eating a bit of a
challenge. A fish that is blinded in one eye should not be destroyed, as they
most often can live out a healthy and full life!
DROPSY
DESCRIPTION: A condition in which the internal organs, specifically the kidneys, fail,
leading to fluid accumulation within the body.
CAUSE: Unknown. May be bacterial in origin from Aeromonas or Mycobacterium, viral,
parasitic from Costia as implicated in goldfish, water quality problems, nutritional
deficiencies or abdominal tumors.
SIGNS: Markedly swollen abdomen, scales sticking out and away from the body giving it
the appearance of a pinecone, pop-eye, rapid gill breathing.
SYMPTOMS: Poor to no appetite, sluggish behavior.
PROGNOSIS: Very poor. Most cases are fatal.
TREATMENT: Most cases of dropsy are diagnosed when it is too far advanced for any
treatment to be effective, so euthanasia should be performed. If dropsy is caught very
early, then it may respond to
1. Romet B or Medi-Gold (antibiotic foods)** for two weeks.
2. Maintaining the water at 84-86*F for two weeks. Be sure to provide extra
aeration/oxygenation when treating at these high temperatures because warmer water
holds less oxygen.
3. Abdominal swelling may be lessened by adding Epsom salt at the rate of 1/8 teaspoon
per every 5 gallons of water, as it will draw fluid out of your fish. Never use aquarium or
other types of salt, as these will pull even more fluid inside of your fish.
4. Always remove your fish with dropsy from the main tank and treat in a hospital tank.
5. Consider treating with RidIch+ or Maracide for external parasites.
**Use kanamycin (Kanacyn) or minocycline (Maracyn-Two) as a bath, if unable to find
medicated food, for 10-14 days.
**The best antibiotic to be used for prolonged immersion, which can only be obtained
from your Vet, is tauted to be Augmentin (amoxicillin/clavulanic acid) 500 mg tablet
crushed per every 10 gallons water after a 25% water change has been performed, daily
for 10-14 days, though I have been disappointed with its results in tropical fish.
Feeding antibiotic food is the best course to follow. Once a tropical fish with dropsy has
stopped eating, in my experience, it uniformly dies. The goldfish community has had a
different and much more encouraging experience with successfully treating dropsy than
the those with tropical fish.
Fin Rot
Cause: Bad water quality or exposure to other infected fish. Contagious.
Symptoms: Pieces of the fins may appear tattered, shredded, or disintegrating. The edges
of the fins may appear black or grayish in color. The fish may be lethargic, have clamped
fins, or be hiding.
Treatment: Tetracycline, Kanacyn, Maracyn2, TMP Sulfa
Septicemia (VHS) No-Treatment
Causes : Results from uncycled tanks and ammonia spikes, blood-born pathogens that
cause bacterial infections.
Symptoms: Bright red streaks on fins and may have patches of reddish coloration on
body. Erratic swimming and may hyperventilate.
Symptoms: Redness on fish, bloodstreaks on skin without apparent injury, especially
blood streaks in the fins, inflamed blood vessels in the skin and at fin bases stand out, small
haemorrhages around eyes, loss of appetite, sluggish or very sluggish behavior
Clinical signs of SVC
First signs of the disease may be a change in behavioral patterns of the fish. Fish may
congregate in slow–flowing water, near pond banks, or lie on the bottom. Over time, the
rate of respiration will decrease, as will reaction to stimulation and
swimming speed. As the disease progresses, the fish become sluggish and may swim and
lie on their sides.
Externally, the fish can exhibit a number of non–specific physical signs including darkening
of the skin, swollen abdomen, exophthalmia (pop–eye), hemorrhages in the skin, gills and
anterior eye chamber, anemia and pale gills, and a protruding vent.
Internally, the signs are dominated by building up of fluid (edema) in all organs and in the
body cavity, hemorrhages in the swim bladder, and inflammation of the intestines.
Temperature and seasonality
Research has shown that the optimal temperature for development of SVC in
experimentally infected carp is between 16 and
17° C. At this temperature, 90 percent of the fish died within 5 to 17 days after being
infected. At lower temperatures, 11–15° C, the percent of fish that died was similar but
the mortality was delayed (2–3 weeks). Mortality was reduced at temperatures between
17 and 26° C. The optimum temperature for in vitro virus replication is 20–22° C. Other
experiments have investigated the influence of increasing and decreasing temperatures on
the rate of disease. Research has also demonstrated that a gradual decrease of temperature
(11 down to 5° C) caused low mortality, while increasing temperature back to 20° C
caused massive mortality as the temperature changed from 7 to 14° C.
These results correspond with the field observations that most SVC outbreaks occur in the
spring with warming temperatures.
What are the signs of VHSv?
(Not all fish will exhibit symptoms)
• Bulging eyes
• Pale gills
• Darkening overall color
•
•
•
Distended (fluid-filled) abdomen
Bleeding around the eyes, bases of the fins, sides and head
Corkscrew swimming behaviour
Treatment: Maracyn-2, Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride Powder, water changes and
testing to try to improve water conditions.
FUNGAL INFECTIONS:
True Fungus
Causes: Bad water quality or exposure to another infected fish.
Symptoms: Cottony tufts on fins and body. Lethargic. Clamped fins.
Treatment: Kanacyn, Mardel MarOxy.
Fish Tuberculosis(TB)
Causes: Mostly found in saltwater fish, but occasionally in freshwater species. Caused by
the pathogen: Mycobacterium spp., mostly M. piscium and M. marinum.
Symptoms: Open sores; red or pink in color. Inflamed sores. Deep ulcers. Lethargic, no
appetite, may become anorexic. Appears to waste away and you may see significant
weight loss. The spine may begin to curve, causing difficulty in swimming. The fish will
hide and clamp it's fins.
Treatment: Kanamycin Sulfate; Kanamycin with Isoniazid.
*******NOTE: Fish tuberculosis, although not in the same form, IS contagious to
humans with open cuts on their hands so if you think you may have an infected fish please
make sure you wear gloves when handling the fish, the water, or anything that has been in
the tank.
Ick
Causes: Parasites in the water. can get it from improperly treated water (water that has
not been dechlorinated). Highly contagious so may contract it from other fish. It is more
likely to infect severely stressed fish and fish that are trying to adjust to drastic
temperature and/or pH changes.
Symptoms: Small white granules covering the fish as if they've been sprinkled with salt.
The fish will flash and dart and try to rub against anything in the tank. Hiding. May
gradually become more and more listless. Fish may hang near the surface of the water.
Treatments: Maracide, Kanamycin, CopperSafe (Note: Do not use CopperSafe if you
have invertebrates such as snails or crayfish in the tank to be treated. It will kill them.)
Hole-in-the Head
Cause: protozoan Hexamita.
Symptoms: Holes appear in the head of the fish. These holes may have puss. This usually
occurs in larger species of fish such as Oscars, Koi, or Pacus.
Accompanying symptoms include lethargy, loss of balance, and in appetite. These
symptoms and the tell-tale holes often do not appear until the condition is advanced and
may at that point be untreatable. If not treated early, Hole-in-the-Head is fatal.
Treatment: Jungle Hole-in-the-Head
Hex-a-mit by Aquatronics, Paragon.
Anchor Worm
Cause: External parasites
Symptoms: these parasites are visible. They are small worms that attach to the outside of
the fish. They are shaped like a 'y'. These parasites are found most often in ponds or on
fish that are regularly fed live foods. Other than seeing the parasite itself, there are usually
no visible symptoms.
Treatment: Jungle Parasite Guard
Roundworms
Cause: Internal parasite (nematodes)
Symptoms: lethargy and inappetite. These parasites usually cannot be seen unless they are
directly under the first layer of tissue.
Treatment: Clout
Flukes of the Skin, Gills, or Eyes
Cause: Internal parasites?
Symptoms: so small that they usually cannot be seen unless present on gills (this is rare to
see as well). Gasping, labored breathing, scratching, flashing, darting.
Treatment: Praziquantel, formalin and/or malachite green
Louse
Cause: external parasite
Symptoms: may appear as a flat, round bump on the surface of the fish's skin. Other than
that, there are usually no visible signs.
Treatment: Jungle Parasite Guard or Clout.
Planaria
Cause: external parasite. Found in tanks with bad water quality, too much gravel, too
much decaying waste in the gravel bed, and infrequent water changes.
Symptoms: little white string-like worms swimming in the water. May be seen attached to
the walls and decor in the tank.
Treatment: Treat with Quickcure. Do 25% water changes every day for a week and
remove excess gravel. Gravel should not be more than 1 1/4 inches from the bottom of the
tank. For a more detailed description of Planaria and how to deal with it, click here.
What are Planaria?
Have you ever looked into your tank and seen tiny little white things wriggling through
the water or crawling on your glass? If so, you are likely seeing Planaria. Planaria are a
type of flatworm; Platyhelminthes phylum.
Before you get too upset about having flatworms in your aquarium, take a deep breath.
Planaria are harmless to your fish. But don't get too complacent about their presence,
either. There are a few things you should be aware of . . .
Why are They in My Tank?
Planaria tend to crop up in aquariums where there is an excess of food and waste decaying
in the gravel beds. This rotting waste is their food source. So you see, while the planaria
themselves are harmless they are a symptom of a larger problem.
This problem being, specifically, that uneaten food and fish waste releases ammonia as it
rots. Ammonia is toxic and often lethal to fish. In a well-maintained and cycled aquarium
the normal output of ammonia from uneaten food and fish waste is converted to less
harmful substances by the colonies of good nitrifying bacteria built up in the tank.
However, if you're seeing planaria then chances are that the problem has gone on long
enough that the nitrifying bacteria is no longer present and your ammonia, nitrite, or
nitrate levels are almost surely at a dangerous level now. Your fish may be experiencing
health problems, behavioral changes, and ammonia poisoning at this point. As you've
realized by now, planaria are warning signs that you need to re-evaluate your tank
maintenance routine.
How Do I Get Rid of Them and Fix My tank?
The only real way to get rid of them is to remove their food source, striking at the root of
the problem. To do this you'll need to do the following things:
• do 15-25% water changes every day for the next week
• Make sure you use a gravel vacuum when doing water changes so that you know
you're getting it clean. If you never use a gravel vacuum, that's part of your
problem.
• You may have too much gravel in your tank. If this is the case it is providing too
much space for food/waste to decay in. That makes it harder to clean during water
changes and harder for the filter to suck out particles. You should never exceed
1/4 of an inch of gravel on the bottom of your tank. If you have more than that,
you'll need to get rid of some.
• Adding aquarium salt can help in some cases also. (Do not exceed 1 tablespoon
per 5 gallons of water). However, if you keep invertibrates or scaleless fish in your
tank you should skip on the salt as it can hurt or kill them.
• Test you ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels every day to ensure that they go down
and stay in safe levels.
How To Make Sure They Don't Come Back
If you're having planaria problems it's time to start trouble-shooting your maintenance
methods. Below are some of the things you should be doing on a regular basis to keep
your tank healthy and planaria-free:
•
•
•
•
•
weekly 25% water changes
using a gravel vacuum each and every time you do water changes
Don't overfeed your fish. You should only feed them as much as they can eat in 5
minutes. If you're seeing a substantial amount of food left over after they're done
eating it's time to start cutting back.
Test your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels once a week. If you start to see you
nitrates climbing (or heaven forbid, your nitrites or ammonia) you'll need to do
some water changes.
Make sure you don't have too much gravel. You only need 1/4 of an inch evenly
spread.
Bacterial Infections
BACTERIA
Bacteria grow erratically and are often white or milky in appearance. A bacteria infection
may be localized or may be evident on several areas of the fish. Bacteria infections are
likely to be found in or around open sores or any area where the fish has lost it's protective
slime coating.
Antibiotics and medicated food should be used to treat bacteria infections along with
frequent water changes. A dirty system can prevent successful treatment. Because there
are so many different types of bacteria, you may have to try several types of antibiotics
before finding one that works. Be sure to do large water changes between treatments of
different medications. Different resins and high-quality carbons will remove medications
from the water and should be removed during any treatment with antibiotics.
Internal bacterial infections may be identified by the gas they produce. This may cause the
following symptoms- swelling, a fish that has trouble staying on the bottom, whitish feces
that float or trail off behind the fish, or lack of feces entirely (blockage).
STRESS
Any system's condition that is not good for the livestock may cause stress and too much
stress usually leads to disease. The most common sources of stress are:
1) Improper pH or drastic and\or sudden changes in pH.
2) Improper temperature or sudden changes in temperature.
3) Improper salinity or water density for extended periods.
4) Improper hardness, or sudden change in hardness.
5) Pounding on the system, or sudden movements that scare the fish.
6) Aggressive pond-mates.
7) Poor diet.
8) High metabolite levels. (A high nitrite level prevents oxygen from reaching the cells and
may cause suffocation or brain damage).
9) High nitrate levels. (This may lower the PH as well).
10) Any measurable ammonia level. (80% of all fish waste is in the form of ammonia and
is extremely toxic if not converted immediately into nitrite).
11) Other toxins. (Chlorine, copper, detergents, iron, lead, zinc, commercial ammonia,
nicotine, perfume or cologne, oil, paint fumes, insecticides including contamination from
dog and cat flea collars, etc.).
12) Too little or too much dissolved gas in the water, or a rapid change from water that is
saturated with gases to a "normal" gas saturation level. This can be a problem when
releasing newly purchased fish into the system. If the water is not mixed, the fish may
suffer a condition that is very similar to "the bends" and may be just as deadly.
13) Too much or too little light. Too much light (no, or short periods of darkness), speeds
up the metabolism of the fishes and does not allow the fish to rest. Too little light and the
fish may be lethargic and not eat properly.
14) Dirty or cloudy water. Cloudy water is usually caused by bacteria. The bacteria in the
water uses all the available oxygen and the fish suffocate.
15) No hiding places for the fish to feel safe.
16) Loss of mucous of the fish's slime coating. This condition may be caused by stress
instead of the other way around, but once the slime coating is lost, additional stress is
incurred.
17) Infectious (bacterial & fungal) and protozoan diseases.
18) Any other sudden changes in the environment.
19) Overcrowding.
Stress triggers the release of epinephrine, a hormone which prompts the fish to get ready
to fight or flee. (The hormone used to be called adrenaline.) This increases the heart rate,
blood pressure and respiration. At worst continual stress will cause a fish to die of
exhaustion. At best the fish's immune system may become so over-stimulated that it
functions improperly and the fish dies from a disease that would not kill an unstressed
organism. A over-stressed fish usually becomes sick. If the stress is severe the fish may go
into shock and die immediately.
Most aquatic systems have a constant supply of fungus, bacteria, and parasites that have
little or no effect on a healthy fish. Once a fish is under stress however, it may fall prey to
the disease organisms that comes along or are already present but that it might have
resisted without being over-stressed.
Fish and invertebrates are more dependent on their environment than any of the higher
animals. They are totally dependent on their owners to provide them with proper living
conditions.
Slime Diseases
Symptoms: sluggishness, frayed fins, dulled coloration (fish has bcome mucus covered), damaged
gills, death
There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in a
similar way. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and
Chilodonella respectively, the last being the most resistant of the parasites. Once the disease has
spread to the gills, it is at its most deadly, and could prove fatal to the affected fish.
remedy:
The first thing to do is to contact your vet or petstore for further instruction. Several
good medications are available. It is wise to treat your main tank in order to ensure
that you have successfully removed all traces of the parasite from it (although it may
be beneficial to also move a badly afflicted fish to a quarantine tank). Leave the
filter running, but remove any activated carbon because this substance takes
medicine out of the water.
If the slime disease persists despite the use of a general medication, it is most likely
the Chilodonella strain, and additional action must be taken. Placing your fish into a
short-term bath is then suggested. NOTE that giving your fish a bath in this way is
strongly discouraged except under the supervision of an expert! This said: if the
fish's gills are not affected, a bath in a water-formalin solution (formalin is a
corrosive poison) is suggested. If the gills are affected, the fish may not be able to
survive a bath in water-formalin, and so a bath in a water-salt solution is suggested,
with a water-formalin bath to follow only if the water-salt solution does not succeed.
Costia
Costia
Latin name: Ichthyobodo necatrix, Costia necatrix
Other names:
Pathogen: parasite
Symptoms: Flagellates 8-15 micrometers large of different form which depends on
the relative position to the observer. There are two flagella on the front part of the
organism, Clamped fins, Fish do swinging movements, Fish itch (fish scratch on the
rocks and other objects), Fish stop feeding, Laboured breathing, Blue-grayish slime
coating, Entire body covered whith gray coating, Fins stick together, Fraying of fins,
Separate slightly red areas on the body, Separation of fin rays, Slime comes out of
gills
Scratching against hard objects, awkward swimming with fins clamped and the
appearance of a velvety grayish or bluish film on the fish's body, caused by excessive
slime production, is a characteristic of the disease. If the gills are badly affected, fish
show signs of asphyxia, even though the oxygen level in the aquarium is normal.
Gills are anemic and are covered in mucous which blocks the absorption of the
dissolved oxygen. Fish will stop feeding. Sometimes fin disintegration will occur,
which is characterized by the necrosis of tissues between fin rays. Denudation of fin
rays is observed.
Description:
Costia is an invasive disease that affects many aquarium and free-living fish. It is
caused by the flagellate Ichthyobodo necatrix, formerly known as Costia necatrix, a
member of the Family Bodonidae, Order Protomonadina. It is very small, 8-15
micrometers in diameter. At the anterior end, the protozoan has two flagella by
means of which it swims and attaches itself to the skin and gills burrowing itself into
the outermost epidermal cells and feeding on their content. Microscopically, the
flagellate will have different shapes (oval, cone-shaped, or curved). It is not
uncommon to see four flagella ? two small and two big ones. This is explained by the
parasite?s ability to multiply rapidly. The second pair of flagella will indicate that
the flagellate has started dividing. In its center, the parasite has an oval nucleus.
There are different vacuoles and inclusions in the protoplasm. Costia necatrix will
infect the skin and gills. The parasite can only survive for a few hours without a
host. Costia necatrix has a very simple life cycle. Once on the host, Costia infects the
outermost epidermal cells of the skin and gills. It grows rapidly and begins to
multiply by longitudinal division. It is yet unclear whether unfavorable conditions
can cause the flagellate to get back to the cyst stage (encystment). It is only known
that if conditions deteriorate, Costia becomes round in shape. The parasite
multiplies most rapidly at temperatures of 25 to 28C (77-82F). However, it does not
tolerate temperatures above 30?32C (86-89F). Outbreaks are most common in
nursery tanks due to overcrowding. Adult fish rarely die of Costia, but their become
carriers of disease. Clinically, chilodotiasis, trichodinosis and gyrodactylis often
resemble Costia. That is why the diagnosis should be based on clinical signs of
disease as well as microscopic examination of scrapings of the skin and gills.
Microscopic examination is carried out with a microscope at medium power with a
half-closed diaphragm. Only experts can carry out microscopic examination with a
microscope at low power.
How to cure:
Sick fish are to be treated in a separate tank. Treat fish with a series of short-term
baths: potassium permanganate solution (KMnO4), for five days sodium chloride
solution (NaCI), for seven days. Artificial seawater can be used. pure copper sulfate
solution (CuSO2*5H2O), daily for four days.
Malachite green solution
Basic violet K solution
Formaline solution
Bicillin-5 solution
If it is impossible to treat fish in a separate tank the following medications are added
into the main tank: Trypaflavine, Malachite green with copper sulfate, Rivanol,
methylene blue, Bicillin-5.
Water, gravel, and plants need not be taken away from the main tank after fish
have been moved to the hospital tank. Without a host, parasites die within 24 hours.
As a preventive measure, water temperatures can be raised to 32?34C (90-93F) for
two days. Once the treatment is over, fish are reintroduced into the aquarium and
are given large amounts of fresh feed.
Medicine:
SERA Costapur
Sera Ectopur
TetraMedica ContraIck
TetraMedica General Tonic
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals General Cure
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals All-Natural Melafix
Potassium permanganate solution sodium chloride
Pure copper sulfate solution
Malachite green solution
Basic violet K solution
Formaline solution
Bicillin-5 solution
Prevention:
Newly bought fish are quarantined for 30 days. Before introducing new fish into the
aquarium, give them three short-tem therapeutic baths. Do not let water from the
tank get into live feed. It is not advisable to introduce pond plants without first
disinfecting them. Nets, scrapers, feed boxes, thermometers, pulverizers and other
equipment should not be shared between several aquaria.
TRICHODINA (Cyclochaeta)
Another protozoan parasite, this one resembles a flying saucer in shape and behaviour,
spinning and dancing as it does it is very easy to identify using a microscope with a 100 x
or greater .. this parasite is normally found when water temperatures are high and causes
excessive mucus secretion and blemishes on the skin and gill surfaces - this parasite affects
the respiration which eventually weakens the koi.
Method of Eradication:- Potassium Permanganate Crystals.
Method: Measure Potassium Permangante crystals at the rate of 1.5 grams per ton (220
gallons) of water. Mix in a clean plastic bucket with water close to the boiling point and
pour over the crystals, ensuring that all the crystals are dissolved - then leave this to stand
for at least 30 minutes until the water cools down. Before application stir thoroughly once
more and then pour the solution round the perimeter of the pond - this will turn the water
a violet colour but after a few hours will begin to clear.
A second doseage may be required if the water temperature is above 68 degrees F, after 7
days.
Probably the most common of the Parasites that invade our Koi are:-
Trichodina
a common fish parasite
Written by Frank Prince-Iles
FishDoc
Extremely irritating
It is not uncommon to find small populations of the parasite
Trichodina on fish. At low levels they don't pose a threat to fish
health. Unlike many parasites it doesn't actually feed on fish; these
parasites only use the fish host as a home and means of transport!
However, in large numbers they are extremely irritating and it is
likely that some tissue damage will result from the sucking disc
that trichodinids use for attachment. Healthy fish can control the
numbers of parasites. Severe trichodinid infestations are usually
associated with overcrowding and poor water quality. Under such
conditions these parasites can rapidly multiply.
Trichodina
This shows the outer rim of cilia and the central sucking disc with
its hook-like denticles
Trichodina in a wet mount (mucus) at low magnification
Trichodina on the edge of a gill filament. Note the density, with
some sitting on top of others.
Identification
They are easy to recognize in a wet mount. They always remind
me of flying saucers, hovering and skimming over the surface of
the gill or skin. They are top-hat shaped when viewed from the
side. When viewed from the top it is possible to see an outer ring
of cilia and the concentric rings and hook-like denticles of the
sucking disc. (See the top photo) Gill trichodinids are smaller than
their skin-dwelling cousins, usually less than 30 mm. They also
tend to move faster than skin trichodinids. Those found on the
skin are usually > 50 mm.
The fish react to Trichodina in much the same way as any other
parasite by rubbing and flashing. There may be focal areas of
reddening. At a later stage the fish will be lethargic, they may
isolate themselves, stop feeding and lay on the bottom with
clamped fins.
While they are not as immediately life-threatening as most
parasites, heavy infestations do cause considerable stress to the
fish and it is not uncommon for other ectoparasites and bacteria to
take advantage leading to secondary infections.
Treatments
My own experience is that this parasite can be tricky to treat.
Sometimes it responds to proprietary parasite treatments and
other times they have little or no effect. The same applies to
malachite green and formalin. The most effective treatment
against Trichodina seems to be potassium permanganate which
seems to work virtually every time. Usually only one treatment is
needed to. Salt baths can be useful if only dealing with just one or
two fish.
Article and pictures placed here with permission from the author,
Frank Prince-Iles
FishDoc
http://www.fishdoc.co.uk
It’s the joint action of the Denticles and the cilia that irritate as they rasp on the
skin surface of the koi, causing the koi to flash off the pond bottom in an attempt to
shake this parasite off. This is usually accompanied by an increase in mucus
production.
Although Trichodina are not readily associated with mortalities of koi on there own,
except when in great numbers on the gill lamellae, the blade like Denticles are the
prime way the koi gets infections as the epidermis is breached by the rasping action
of the Denticles, secondary bacterial infections often occur at the site of such a
breach in the epidermis
Another way Trichodina damages koi indirectly, is by irritating the koi to such a
point, that in an attempt to shed the parasite it can and does damage itself on
objects in the pond yet again secondary infection can occur.
As stated the underside is concave with the Denticles hanging down and this is the
side presented to the koi’s skin, the other side is convex and is the side looking away
from the koi’s skin, this is the side where the mouth and the gullet is located, so the
feeding side of this parasite is away from the koi’s body.
Trichodina reproduce by binary fission or division and for this reason treatment
becomes that much easier, as a typical successful treatment gets all generations of
this parasite usually in one treatment.
CHILONONELLA:
Chilodonella - this is the one parasite that kills so many fish so fast in the Springtime.
Chilodinella is one of the hottest fish killers there is. Under the scope you may see a
heartshaped organism, or a large round organism full of tiny bubbles. Alive, the
chilodinella resembles a heart shaped onion, with a fuzzy end where you could imagine the
onions roots would be. These are actually cilia. Dead, Chilodinella are motionless round
balls full of tiny bubbles. They may resemble Ich but they do not have a crescent nucleus
nor
do
they
move
in
their
dead,
rounded
state.
Chilodinella clears EASILY with salt. Leave the salt in for 14 days, and be sure to
supplement aeration, as gill damage d/t Chilodinella may be severe in the survivors.
Chilodinella should be suspected anytime large numbers of fish are dying on the surface, or
who roll over on their sides except when disturbed, the Koi dash madly.
http://media.putfile.com/3D-Chilo
Method of Erradication:
Treats easily with salt at the doseage rate of 3/4 ounce per gallon (0.75 percent).
Clears almost overnight, so immediate salting can save a lot of fish.
Treatments: 1.5% on up to 3% salt dips and placing into a sterile environment, then
continue with QuickCure continuously for 3 days. This can be a harsh treatment so follow
instructions carefully, aerate very well and have a fresh tub of water on standby. This
treatment can be a sure fire kill if done correctly.
Potassium permanganate bath and placing into sterile environment. Scope and treat one
more time if the fish's health allows or need be.
Other treatments such as Parasite clear and a 0.3% salt solution, along with salt dips, can
be quite successful.
It took 2 weeks at 0.8% (not a typo) salinity and 3 PP dips @ 2ppm for 4 hours, once
every 3 days, to kill off an especially hardy strain of Chilodonella (?Uncinata?) once and
for good. All of the rest of the treatments listed above failed, multiple times.
BLACK SPOT
Symptoms: Small black speckles on body Flickering Small black smudges on fish
Scratching against surfaces Very irritated
Symptoms of Stress & Disease Black Spot General Description A disease caused by the
larvae of parasitic digenetic flukes, Cercaria and Metacercaria. A common disease in
earthen bottom ponds and lakes, this disease is caused by a parasite (larval trematode) that
burrows into the skin of a fish causing the formation of a cyst approximately one
millimeter in diameter. This parasite has a complex life cycle that requires fish eating birds
or mammals, snails, and fish at different stages in order to survive.
In general, even heavy infestations of these parasites do relatively little damage to the fish.
There is some evidence that heavily infested juvenile fish may experience excessive blood
loss, physiological stress, and even death. Also, fish with heavy infestations on the eyes
may be blinded.
The term "Black Spot" refers to the formation of small cysts in the muscle and skin around
which the parasite lives. The cyst accumulates black pigment cells. These cause little harm
to the fish. Young fish have growth problems if heavily infected. The first intermediate
host is a mollusc. The fish is the second intermediate host and the final host is a kingfisher
or heron. Black Spot Treatments Black spot is generally easy to cure. There are a
number of commercially available treatments and preventatives. Black Spot Prevention
Be careful when adding new fish. Black Spot, or diplopstomiasis, often follows the
addition of new aquarium fish. All fish are susceptible, especially the Silver Dollar and
Piranha. It is fairly easy to diagnose and treat.
Fish Diagnosis Chart
Appearance
Symptoms
Possible Causes
Treatments
Black spots appearing
Caustic irritant
Parasites
Test and correct water
Parasite treatment
Broken spines on fins
Mechanical damage
Will heal without treatment
Color change; white
spreading
Pigment loss to the
skin
Not a problem if fish is acting good,
eating well, and fins look OK
Can be caused by a temperature spike
Crooked ("S"-shaped) back
Malnutrition -- lack
of
vitamin C
Enlarged ovary
Add good-quality food
No action required
Mechanical damage
Dropping scales
Myxosporidia
protozoans
Water accumulation
Eyes bulging
Trauma to the eye
Will heal without treatment
Is not treatable; change water
If related to Dropsy, can be fatal
Will return to normal shortly
Exothalamus
Bacterial infection; no cure, but not
fatal
Eyes pop out
Edwardsiella Etarda
Bacterial infection carried by frogs &
turtles
Feed Romet B
Inject Chloramphenicol or Amakacin
Fins or tails are eaten away;
red area adjacent to body
Fin/Tail Rot
Jungle Fungus Eliminator
Salt solution
Antibiotics
Gills are bright red
No problem
No action required
Gills are brownish
Nitrite toxicity
Correct water chemistry
Gills are dark red
Water quality
problem
Test & correct water quality
Gills are light red with
patches of rotten tissue
Bacterial infection
Salt solution
Antibiotics
Jungle BGDX
Eye/eyes pop out
Gills swollen open or pale red
Gill cover has hole
Milky skin
Flukes
Tuberculosis
Aeromonas bacteria
Excess mucus
production
pH plunges
Ammonia burn
Parasites
Parasite treatment
TB not treatable
Antibiotics
Raise water temp to 85 deg F
Test and correct water
Salt
Parasite treatment
Mouth rotting away
Parasite caused the
initial lesion; Flukes
Formalin
Antibiotics
Red belly
Aeromonas infection
Bacterial infection
Antibiotics
Injections
Raise water temp to 85 deg F
Red mouth
Columnaris infection
or
Enteric redmouth
Romet B antibiotic food
Red spiderweb under scales
Stress
Bad water quality
Parasites
Test and correct water
Salt
Treat for parasites
Red spots on skin
Bacterial infection
Abrasions
Parasites (Flukes)
Antibiotics
Salt
Parasite treatment
Red streaks on fins and/or tail
near body
Hemorrhagic
Septicemia
Jungle Fungus Eliminator
Clear Pond Treats All
Nearly always fatal
Scales are white or clear
Site of wound which
has healed
No action required
Scales missing on a "fat" fish
Mating ritual
Treat for parasites & then bacteria
Salt dip
Peroxide on wound
Neosporin Creme on wound
Anotbiotics
Scales stand out on part of the
body
Mating
Parasites
Test and correct water
Salt
Slimy, light-colored feces
with bubbles
Constipation
No food for 2 days, then chopped
earthworms for 3 days
Split fin
Flukes
Parasite treatment
Suture fin
Swollen abdomen; no raised
scales
Fatty liver
Egg impaction
Cystic kidneys
Swollen and deformed
abdomen; no raised scales
Cancer of some kind
Cystic kidneys
Surgery
Swollen abdomen; raised
scales all over body
Dropsy
Jungle Fungus Eliminator
Heat water to 85 deg F
Add 1/8 tsp Epsom Salt to 5 gallons
water
Antibiotic food
Usually fatal
Ulcers, lethargy, & loss of
appetite
Bacterial infection
Aeromonas/Pseudomo
nas
Salt
Antibiotics
Raise water temp to 85 deg F
Very red fins
Stress
Nitrate poisoning
Ammonia or Nitrite
Parasites
Bacterial sepsis
Test and correct water
Salt
Parasite treatment
Wasting away
Flukes (smaller fish)
TB of the liver (larger
fish)
Remove eggs
Parasite treatment
Flexobacterial
infection
Corneal edema
Caustic trauma
White eye
Antibiotics
Time will heal
Caused by Formalin or Ammonia
Aeromonas bacteria
White ring around red ulcer
Antibiotics
Raise water temp to 85 deg F
Behavior
Symptoms
Anorexia, excess slime, isolation, resting
on the bottom, streaking of the fins, and
finally death
Clamped fins
Fins collapsed close to body; listless
behavior
Flashing/scratching
Possible
Causes
Treatments
Acidosis
Water changes
Buffering agent
pH crash
Parasites
Test and correct
water
Salt
Parasite treatment
Gill Flukes
Jungle Parasite
Guard
Anti-parasite food
Sulfadimethoxin
Parasites
Changes in
water quality
UV stabilizers
in PVC pipe
Specific parasite
treatment
Test and correct
water
Don't use untested
plastics
Gasping at the surface
Inadequate
oxygen in
water
Gills are
damaged
Test and correct
water
Salt
Gasping at the surface; excess slime;
death
Alkalosis
Water changes
Buffering agent
Hover at the surface; milky skin
pH plunge
Test and correct
water
Salt
Isolate themselves, lie on the bottom,
clamp their fins, secrete excess slime
Ammonia
toxicity
Water changes
Manage pH
Aeration
Jumping
Irritant in the
water
Flukes
Test and correct
water
Parasite treatment
Salt
Potassium
Permanganate
Jumping; small lump on skin or fins
Fish Lice
(Argulus)
Jungle Parasite
Guard
Labored breathing and eratic movements
Salt Toxicity
Reduce salt
concentration in
water
Lethargic; don't play
Inadequate
aeration
Add waterfall,
venturi, or air stone
Laying inactive on bottom; gills are light
red
Bacterial Gill
Disease
Parasites
Jungle BGDX
Salt
Open gills, rapid respiration
Gill Flukes
Jungle Parasite
Guard
Rolling/spiral swimming
Neurological
disorder due
to poison
>50% water change
Chloramine and
heavy metal
neutralizer
Rubbing objects and breathing rapidly
Acidosis
Correct pH of water
Scratching on bottom or objects in pond
Itching
Jungle Parasite
Guard
Clear Pond Treats
All
Sitting on bottom; struggle to swim to
surface
Swim bladder
problem
(bacteria)
Electrocution
Antibiotics
Salt
GFCI outlet
Sitting on bottom: swim fine when
disturbed
Heavy Fluke
infection
Fluke Tabs
Salt
Spitting
Normal
behavior
Fluke
infestation
No problem
Fluke Tabs
Swimming VERY fast
Bad water
quality
Test and correct
water
Swimming with head down, tail up at the
surface
Bacterial
infection
Antibiotic injections
Swimming with mouth open; can't close
it
Foreign body
stuck in the
mouth
Ulcer or sore
in the roof of
the mouth
Remove object
through the gill
Swab with hydrogen
peroxide
Swimming with tail up
Swim Bladder
Disorder
Jungle Fumgus
Eliminator
Constipated
No food for 2 days,
then chopped
earthworms for 3
days
Feed more green
roughage
Swimming upside down
External Problems
Symptoms
Possib
le
Cause
s
Treatments
Golden velvety coating on the back of the fish
Velvet
Diseas
e
Acriflavine
Leeches
Leech
Salt solution
Small lump on skin or fins; jumping
Fish
Lice
(Argul
us)
Jungle Parasite
Guard
Small thread-like worms attached to the body of the
fish
Ancho
r
Worm
Trichlorfon
Potassium
Permanganate
Jungle Parasite
Guard
Mecurochrome
swab
Dimilin
Waxy growth on skin and fins
Fish
Pox
Viral infection
Heat water to 85
deg F
Salt
White cottony growth on body or fin (like goblets)
Epistyl
is
Salt
White
Fungu
s
Jungle Fungus
Eliminator
Salt
Peroxide
Potassium
Permanganate
Colum
naris
bacteri
a
Salt
Potassium
permanganate
Antibiotic food
Swab peroxide
and Neosporin
on the wound
Staph
infecti
on
Salt
Potassium
permanganate
Antibiotic food
Swab peroxide
on the wound
White
Spot
or Ick
Salt > 1 ppt
Malachite Green
Clear Pond
Treats All
Methyl Blue
Copper salts
Raise water temp
to 85 deg F
White cottony growth on body or fin (like strands of
hair)
White cottony growth on body or fin; red around
the wound; darkened skin; loss of slime coat; can go
systemic
White cottony growth on body or fin; very dark red
around the wound; usually an Oranda
White pinhead spots on body or fins
Feeding Problems
Symptoms
Possible
Causes
Treatments
Loss of appetite; surfacing
pH crash
Test and correct water; add buffer
to water
Loss of appetite, ulcers, &
lethargy
Bacterial
infection
Antibiotics