- The Leela
Transcription
- The Leela
M A G A Z I Draped Tales N E CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE W e are delighted to announce that The Leela Residences project, at Bhartiya City, a 125-acre township in Bengaluru, has been launched. These residences — four-bedroom, three-bedroom, two-bedroom, one-bedroom, and studio apartments — all feature eWPuisite interiors and ƥttings. The Leela Residences will provide the luxury of a hotel at home, with all of world-class amenities and services, such as concierge assistance, housekeeping services, laundry services, small banqueting functions, etc. A luxury hotel adjoining the residences, The Leela, is being planned, and it will have 275 guestrooms and suites, gourmet restaurants, high-end shopping spaces, sprawling parks and more. Among our most-awaited projects is The Leela Palace Jaipur. The recently launched Leela Residences, at This is going to be a heritage-style palace, after the manner of The Leela Palace Udaipur, and will be located near the Amber Fort, on the Delhi-Jaipur highway. The Leela Palace Jaipur will Bhartiya City, a 125-acre oƤer luxurious villas, and will combine old-world charm with the township in Bengaluru, best of contemporary facilities, from world-class restaurants to will provide the luxury of a hotel at home indulgent spas. The hotel will deliver, it goes without saying, a great experience for couples and families. We also expect to break ground by June for The Leela Palace Agra. This will be a modern palace hotel, with all its rooms enjoying stunning views of the famous Taj Mahal. If you are planning a summer holiday, then may I suggest you check out The Leela &etaways, which are special summer oƤers at our resorts in Goa, Kovalam and Udaipur. These have been thoughtfully designed to facilitate a stress-free family holiday. Apart from tailor-made options, you can also select from a range of holidays that promise unique experiences in luxury settings. Choose from The Leela Moments, Sights & Culture, Romance at The Leela, Pure Ayurveda, and Club Rendezvous. For the business planner, we have attractive conference oƤers at our ƥve luxury business hotels. The Meetings Concierge will be glad to assist you with the details. Vivek Nair Chairman & Managing Director, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 4 | SUMMER 2015 T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — S U M M E R 2 0 1 5 CONTENTS Let's Celebrate Thai Style New Year in Songkran Festival 13-15 April,2015. 48 Photography RDKDBSHNMNEOHBREQNLSGDBNƤDD table book National Geographic: QNTMCSGD6NQKCHMXD@QR 10 Luxe Effect 16 Books 20 Heritage Four cool watches, The Rohan Murty Classical Library The Heritage Transport Museum, in Scuba diving in The Andaman @MCHMSDQDRSHMFBTƨHMJR is reviving Indic literature Gurgaon, is a must-visit for car lovers Islands is a thrilling experience 30 Profile 36 Drink 42 Fashion 56 Cinema )DƤQDX6HKJDRHRSGDAQ@HMADGHMC Seven Caribbean countries, How contemporary designers A Q&A with director/scriptwriter and their best rums have reinvented the sari Dibakar Banerjee the interiors at The Leela hotels 20 26 Adventure 30 62 Ayutthaya - Just 80km north of Bangkok is the old capital of Thailand. It is usually visited as a part of day trip from Bangkok which is usually includes stops at Bang Pa In Palace as well as Bang Sai royal arts Center. Although there are numerous attractions, the Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Park in the heart of Ayutthaya city, is a UNESCO’s World Heritage site and a wonder to behold. Tel: 91-11-41663567-69, 46741111 |6||6| THE LEELA MAGAZINE THE LEELA SUMMER MAGAZINE 2015 SUMMER 2015 Tel: 91-22-22042727-28 T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — S U M M E R 2 0 1 5 C O N T E N T S COVER Courtesy Tarun Tahiliani THE LEELA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Lakshmi Nair PRODUCTION DIRECTOR — Shobha Patel CONTENT AND DISTRIBUTION — Priyanka Paul PRODUCTION — Prakash Bachche PUBLICITAS PUBLISHING EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Deepali Nandwani EDITOR — Jaideep Dave CLIENT SERVICE MANAGER — Reshma Malvankar ART 68 78 85 CREATIVE DIRECTOR — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui ART DIRECTOR — Rane Sanjay Vaman GRAPHIC DESIGNER — Shivaji Gaikwad IMAGE EDITOR — Mrunali Gujarathi PRODUCTION MANAGER — Elidio Fernandes ADVERTISING SALES BAC K OF T H E BOOK 68 Food 82 Events 75 The Aesthete 84 Accolades 76 Chef’s Corner 85 Insider’s Guide 77 Oenophilia 86 Perspective 78 Wellness 87 Social Index MUMBAI (022- 61377400) Vice President — Monica Chopra Lamont Dias, Rashmi Kapoor DELHI (011-23730873/66599300) General Manager — Asha Augustine Saloni Verma BANGALORE (080-25592714/82514) — Yogeesha A HYDERABAD (08978866599) — Sheetal Petkar KERALA (09414069321) — Sanjai Krishnan AD SALES - INTERNATIONAL HONG KONG (+852-2516 1003) — Winky Wong MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) — Shallie Cheng SINGAPORE (+65 6735 8681) — Joui Ong DUBAI (+9714 3913360) — Sunil Kanchan MARKETING MANAGER MARKETING SERVICES — Salim B. FINANCE & ACCOUNTS SR. MANAGER - ACCOUNTS & ADMIN. — Girish Sharma ACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE — Ashwin Makwana CREDIT CONTROLLER — Girish Joshi “This Magazine is published by Hotel Leela Ventures Limited (“Leela”) and produced by Mediascope Publicitas (India) Pvt. Ltd., on behalf of and under agreement with Leela. Opinions expressed herein are of the authors and do not necessarily reƦect the opinions of Leela or of Mediascope Publicitas (India) Pvt. Ltd. All enquiries about editorial matters, reproduction of articles and advertising should be addressed to The Leela Magazine, Mediascope Publicitas (India) Private Ltd., 51 Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400 005, India. Email: jaideep.dave@publicitas.com Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher. Neither Leela nor MSP assumes any responsibility or endorses any claim made by the advertisers herein.” Printed at Parksons Graphics, Andheri (West), Mumbai 400053. This magazine is printed on environment-friendly, wood-free paper. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 8 | SUMMER 2015 CORPORATE CEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel CFO — Anup Dutta DIRECTOR — Indu Joshi CONNECT WITH US ON LUXE EFFECT ST8LE PANERAI Panerai’s newest family member is the Luminorr 150 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramic. If you think the name is a handful, take a look at its P.100 se manufacture chronograph movement. This Panerai’s case comes in matt synthetic ceramic in black and is based on zirconium oxide. The formula is said to be almost ƥve times harder than steel but much lighter. The dial’s diameter is 44 mm and the back of its case features sapphire crystals to enhance the P.100 manufacture movement. The watch comes with a natural untreated leather strap as well as a rubber one. STERLING SUPERMAN THEO FENELL 18CT WHITE GOLD SKI GOOGLE Its buckle is titanium under a black coating. Because boss needs to know that you’re his For that business trip that also is an oƧce getaway, you can perfect go-to man, Ŗthe man of steel.’ No choose cuƨinks that have a playful casualness about them. task is too hard for you to handle. Indeed, Crafted out of white gold and then intricately hand-painted on you’re someone in the mould of Clark Kent. enamel, this pair is from the British jewellery company. _ZZZFXƬLQNVFRP £8,250.00 | www.theofenell.com Watches A LANGE & SOHNE The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is i the latest from the house of A Lange & S±hne with La we like an acoustic time indicator. It is their second model with a mechanism that is designed to Accessorise for sound the hours, ten-minute intervals and Four timepieces that should be on your minutes. The acoustic sequence works in sync must-buy list. By Sabiha Gihasi with the digitally displayed time whenever the striking mechanism is triggered with a pusher. The time is consequently sounded with a low- CARTIER pitched tone for each elapsed hour, a double Cartier showcased this watch at the SIHH tone for each elapsed ten-minute period and that was held in January this year. The a high-pitched tone for each elapsed minute. Cl¤ de Cartier is expected to be unveiled The mechanism that works together to result in April, and translates to key of Cartier. in the tones is hand-crafted and comprises Keeping sharpness and edge at bay, this 771 parts in total. The watch is ƥtted with an model promises to be all about smooth L043.5 manufacture calibre within. Classic to quirky — add an impressive touch to your ƥnely tailored suit with these cuƨinks. By Nolan Lewis LANVIN RHODIUM PLATED SILVER There’s a quiet sense of power that is conveyed by the classic cuƨink stud. These pale blue rhodiums add a discreet sparkle to your evening curves and minimalist design. The crown’s wear, and are best worn at celebratory occasions. resemblance to a key is the inspiration for £130 | www.Lanvin.com the watch’s name. Even the mechanism is AUDEMARS PIGUET inspired by the action of turning of a key to wind up the clock a new to the world of Audemars Piguet announced its upgraded Royal Oak watchmaking, the brand claims. A sapphire OƤshore collection at SIHH 2015 with the latest Royal is featured in the design of the watch it Oak OƤshore Divers collection, with an upgraded reference is embedded in the metal of the watch number of 15710. This collection celebrates the marriage of and doesn’t stick out. The name of the three most intriguing watchmaking mechanisms, a chronograph, movement of this watch is 147 MC, which calendar as well as a minute repeater with the Grand Complication refers to the year the maison was founded. model. The self-winding watches come with a stainless steel case, The dial measures 40 mm for the men’s dive-time measurement and black rubber straps it is studded with collection. It is ƥnished with 1K pink gold. BOTTEGA VENETA CIRCULAR INTRECCIATO An alternative to the standard stud cuƨink, Bottega Veneta uses intricately crafted silver rings that are subtle yet stylish. Cuƨinks can often get garish and overpower the rest of the wardrobe, and the key feature of this cuƨink is its simplicity. $540.00 | www.bottegaveneta.com strategically placed jewels and bezels. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 10 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 11 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE success SABYASACHI BESPOKE BRIDAL AND JEWELLERY J Kolkata | New Delhi | Mumbai | Hyderabad | Chennai | Ahmedabad | Bangalore Dubai | San Fransisco | London | New Jersey Jewellery courtesy by Kishandas and Co. for Sabyasachi www.sabyasachi.com JEWELLERY THE PATIALA NECKLACE All that Cartier made heirloom pieces for glitter quite a few royals. Back in 1928, another Indian king who loved his diamonds was Bhupinder Singh, the Maharaja of Back in the day, jewellery pieces were made like art. Patiala. He had Cartier make Here are some of the world’s most iconic pieces and him a ƥve-tier diamondstudded ceremonial interesting stories attached to them. necklace with the legendary pale-yellow De Beers By Sabiha Ghiasi Diamond, which weighed a whopping 234.69 carats, in the centre. The necklace that could THE TIFFANY DIAMOND have well been a suit of armour Colourful diamonds have always been contained 2,930 diamonds in all. favourites in jewellery design. One such yellow diamond weighs 128.54 carat. The iconic TiƤany Diamond is owned by New York-based jewellery company TiƤany & Co, and was LA PEREGRINA PEARL Elizabeth Taylor is renowned for two of her inherent talents: great acting skills and an eye for precious jewels. She bought, and was gifted, the world’s most precious jewellery. mined in 1877 in South Africa. It is the centrepiece to a necklace that is complete with 481 white diamonds. Its home has always been the brand’s Ʀagship store in New York City. One of them was La Peregrina Pearl that weighs 50.56 carats, according to Christie’s, the house where it was later auctioned along with its necklace. The pearl dates back to the 16th-century and was bought by Richard Burton, Taylor’s husband, for her 37th WALLIS SIMPSON’S ENGAGEMENT RING THE GRAFF PINK In 1950, Harry Winston sold a Ʀawless pink birthday in 1969. The necklace was designed diamond to a private THE BARODA DIAMOND NECKLACE by Taylor herself and made by Cartier. collector, who in turn When it comes to timeless jewellery, women had it auctioned in certainly did not have all the fun. Indian 2010. Such clarity and Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, was known for her passion for jewellery colour are especially and royal soiree. The world watched her hard to ƥnd above ƥve third marriage, with the Duke of Windor, carats. GraƤ, a celebrity maharajas were renowned for commissioning the most coveted pieces of jewellery. One such king was the Maharaja of Baroda, Pratap Singh Gaekwar. In the 19th century, American jeweller, he was immortalised in a portrait wearing her in 1936. Naturally, a love like theirs bought the stone and a magniƥcent diamond necklace that was deserved the weight of bling. According christened it The GraƤ edged with the deepest green cabochon to Cartier, the brand that produced their Pink. It is one of the engagement ring, a 19.77-carat emerald rarest pink diamonds in who abdicated his throne as king for emeralds that dangled halfway to his chest. Legend has that necklace was then broken the world at 24.78 carat. was set on a band that was engraved and redesigned as anklets by his other great love, Sita Devi, his second and beloved wife. with the words, ‘We are ours now’. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 14 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 15 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE BOOKS The Murty Classical Library, published 2000 years of Indic literature by Harvard University Press and endowed with a $5.2 million grant from Dr. Rohan Murty, is translating forgotten texts of India into English. By Ruth Dsouza Prabhu A Library of Greek and Latin texts, a bilingual series, Dr. Rohan says that it and languages. Literature, with its varied patrons, was abundant will now be possible for future generations to have access to our great in the days of yore. Besides Sanskrit, scores of Indian languages captured works of classical literature. (Another venture of this nature has been the essence of those eras from political, cultural, ƥnancial, medical, the Library of Arabic Literature housed at the New York University which educational and several other perspectives. publishes speciƥc classical and pre-modern works of Arabic Literature large part of India’s draw lies in its diversity — a country that is Basing the model of the MCLI on the much-celebrated Loeb Classical an amalgamation of so many religions, customs, traditions, foods It is often a sad topic of discussion that for a country with vast literary oƤerings in almost every sphere possible, much of it has never reached in similar parallel text formats and which is funded by the Emirate of Abu Dhabi.) the contemporary world. And that’s why the Murty Classical Library (MCLI), There was a strong deƥnition to what form Greek and Latin literature published by the Harvard University Press, is being heralded as a move had to take in the case of the Loeb Classical Library. By contrast, given in the right direction. Inaugurated in January this year, the Library is an the vastness of ancient India, the context here requires some thought. eƤort to create modern English translations of classical Indian literature, Trying to explain this is Sheldon Pollock, the General Editor of the MCLI drawing from approximately 20 languages, including Sanskrit. Works and Sanskrit scholar himself. In an interview on WBUR Boston’s On Point created in Bengali, Hindi, Kannada, Marathi, Pali, Punjabi, Persian, Sindhi, with Tom, Sheldon says, that as far as Indian literature goes, there Tamil, Telugu, Urdu and other languages will be taken up. Poetry and prose, history and medicine, religious texts of Hindus, has been a boundary that deƥnes motifs and aesthetics. Manuscripts were of so many diƤerent kinds and were known by diƤerent names. The India of back then Muslims and Buddhists will all ƥnd a place in this included Nepal, parts of Burma, Afghanistan and Sri eƤort. The presentation of these books is in Lanka. All of this constitutes the big domain of an easy-to-read format, with the original the Indian literature we are referring to here text, the script it was written in, on the at the MLCI. left, and the English translation on The ƥrst ƥve books to come out the facing page. of this eƤort have cerise jackets and The library owes its existence a feather leaf motif wrapping to the philanthropy of Dr. Rohan Murty, the son of Narayan itself around the spine of Murty, co-founder of Infosys. Dr the book. These inaugural Rohan has explored classical volumes feature Sanskrit, Indian philosophy Pali, while in computer science funds Punjabi and books spread from the north-west, at all across to present day Andhra Pradesh, Harvard. His $5.2 million endowment Telugu, Persian. Geographically, these working on his doctorate going further south to Sri Lanka. this From Persian, we have Abu’l-Fazl’s The Library, which will give History of Akbar, which is from the ƥrst part of the world literature an immense Ahilaya Akbarnama, which deals with the birth and reign of treasure trove of contributions the Mughal emperor; in the Gurmukhi script of from India. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 16 | SUMMER 2015 Reshma Building, 2nd Hasnabad lane, Ground Floor, Santacruz West Tel.: 26055289/26490447 5DPQLPL%XLOGLQJ0DQGOLN5RDG*URXQGÀRRU&RODED7HO 1DY3RRMD%XLOGLQJ6FKHPHQR3HUU\&URVV5RDG%DQGUD:HVW7HO There is also the Therigatha: Poems of the First Buddhist Women, which is translated from Pali, and The Story of Manu, by Allasani Peddana, in Telugu Dr. Rohan Murty and Sheldon Pollock, general editor of The Murty Classical Library of India Punjabi is Bullhe Shah’s Suƥ Lyrics; and we have Surdas’s Old Hindi Sur’s in original and translation, to new readers — both in and outside India. Ocean, a 1000 page anthology of more than 400 poems. There is also the They are also an invaluable treasury for researchers, linguists and Therigatha: Poems of the First Buddhist Women, which is translated from translators.” Pali, and The Story of Manu by Allasani Peddana in Telugu. Vinutha Mallya is the principal at Linespace Consulting, a publishing The aim of the MCLI is to have over 500 volumes created over a span of a century. More than 40 titles have already been commissioned. and editorial advisory based in Bangalore. She researches and works Of course, these texts will be invaluable to the scholarly and research extensively in the Indian publishing industry with a focus on the community here in India. “But, for these texts also reach individual hands, publishing industries of Indian languages; independent publishing sector the publications will need to be available at retail stores at the right in India; and on e-books and digital publishing trends. She says, “The MCLI (Indian) price point. That might take time; but the full impact of this set of breathes fresh life into the many multilingual classics from the Indian publications would be felt then, when it is available to the public at large,” subcontinent. These new, translated editions make the texts accessible, believes Mallya. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 18 | SUMMER 2015 HERITAGE Time travel From spiƤed-up vintage cars to aircraft models to kaleidoscopic rickshaws — the Heritage Transport Museum, in Gurgaon, gives a unique perspective on the evolution of transportation in India. The museum showcases more than 70 classic and vintage cars By Akshita Nahar Jain W hile pursuing his MBA in Paris, Tarun Thakral, COO of Le automobiles, palanquins, boats, railway, and air carriers. Spread over four Meridien Delhi, observed that, in the class of 40 students, Ʀoors, the museum boasts of travel memorabilia, engaging artworks, and he and two other Indians were the only ones who lacked over 70 remodeled automobiles from Thakral’s personal collection. an avocation. “In hindsight, I realised that, after school, competition is Capturing the evolution of transportation in India, the museum, so severe, we lose complete sight of hobbies or collections — philately, curated with the funding and support of the Ministry of Culture, displays coins, or match boxes,” says Thakral. over 2,500 artefacts and memorabilia. Its aim is to “educate a diverse After his return to India, on a trip to Rajasthan in 1994, he started collecting vintage lamps, gramophone record players, and old radios, audience about the history of transportation in India and serve as an enduring repository of history for generations to come”. which eventually gave way to a collection of remodeled vintage cars. The museum oƤers audio-visual presentations. “We wanted the The fascinating result of this boyhood hobby is the Heritage Transport Museum to be a live place where historical objects talk to modern ones,” Museum, India’s ƥrst. says Thakral. Case in point: the beautifully recreated old carriage from the Located on the fringes of Gurgaon, in the now industrial village Indian railways, complete with vintage advertisements, original posters, of Taoru, the museum hosts a collection of pre-modern and modern train tickets, railway maps, and a background score of a hooting whistle, marvels navigating through the to take you back to a 1930s platform. The space is well-connected, with ramps, to keep you on various modes of travel — an easy Ʀowing journey through the galleries dedicated to vintage automobiles, pre-mechanised modes of transportation, railways, aviation, maritime, toys on transport, indigenous modes of transportation and contemporary art. Begin your tour by admiring Thakral’s personal collection set on the lower level set to resemble a street with mechanic repair shops, THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 20 | SUMMER 2015 Also on display are indigenous modes of transport, like phat-phats SUMMER 2015 | 21 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE The museum, curated with the funding and support of the Ministry of Culture, displays over 2,500 artefacts and memorabilia, and seeks to both educate and entertain the visitor The museum also features interesting artworks fueling pumps and automobile keepsakes against a retro ambiance. “Each dedicated to raw, indigenous modes of transportation, or jugaad. Whether and every piece of the collection has some interesting story associated it’s the noisy phat-phats that plied on the streets of old Delhi, kaleidoscopic with it, be it the time taken to go and see it, the negotiations or the rickshaws, Gujarat’s chakhda (a passenger vehicle fashioned out of a Royal emotional sellers not wanting to part with their family heirloom,” says Enƥeld bike), or wall murals with kitschy truck art — the museum gives a Thakral. As one such tale goes, Thakral, in 1999, struck a deal with a milk unique perspective on the Indian locomotive industry. vendor in Bikaner for two cars: a 1946 Buick Super 8 and a 1946 Chevrolet Giving a fresh life to dilapidated locomotives, the museum is abundant woody; inquiring about the origin of the cars, Thakral learnt that he (the in artworks, like Hetal Shukla’s suspended Chevy Impala, embellished milk vendor) acquired the cars from a rich family in the vicinity after they with convex mirrors, which greet you as you enter the museum, or Atul were unable to pay the milk bills. Whether it’s these two vehicles, or the Bhalla’s installation of a derelict wooden boat, in the maritime section. “It very ƥrst car (a Chevrolet) Thakral acquired, or Shah Rukh Khan’s two- is very important for a museum to break the monotony of old objects, and seater convertible, by DC Designs, in Dil To Pagal Hai, these automobiles here we have been able to do that, intelligently, with artworks by artists have been coiƤed and polished to their spiƧest best. With its attached like Gigi Sacaria, T.V. Santosh, Pooja Iranna, Baptist Coehelo, J.R. Iranna, conference area, the HTM is also a great space for business meetings and and Nataraj Sharma,” says Thakral. team-building seminars. From the original Indian Ʀag that formed a part of the Apollo Mission to the moon to a child’s toy from the Indus Valley civilisation, conƥrming the presence of wheels in the pre-historic era, the museum curates a vast range of curiosities. A part of the innovative line-up is the section THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 24 | SUMMER 2015 ADVENTURE 3GD(MƥMHSHG@R four decks and six guest rooms, Diving in the accommodates up to 12 guests on a voyage. It has an indoor lounge, where Andamans is an excellent setting for evening drinks, a dining room and a sundeck. Plunging you into the heart of the mysterious archipelago is Inƥniti, the ƥrst ever liveaboard you can enjoy watching your favourite movies, an outdoor lounge, which The diving team aboard will unveil, one after another, the region’s most stunning diving hotspots; and the chefs will make you feel at home by rustling up some delicious Indian food. While live-aboard yachts are quite popular in countries like Thailand and Malaysia, the Inƥniti, which was built in Phuket by Bakshi, is India’s ƥrst liveaboard. Among the fascinating places the yacht sails to is Barren Island, a yacht in India. Adventure lovers stay aboard this remote island in the Andamans with the only active volcano in South Asia. vessel for four to ten days, and explore some of the The volcano, which got reactivated in 1991, after being dormant for almost best scuba diving hotspots of Asia. 160 years, has regularly been blasting smoke and ash into the air ever since, and many Inƥniti guests have witnessed the sight. The surrounding waters of the unihabitated island, with their rich coral gardens, interesting By Jaideep Dave underwater basalt formations, and manta rays, is a favourite of advancedlevel divers. My ƥve-day trip aboard the yacht, though, was centred around Havelock Island. Havelock, with its mix of turquoise waters and green line, one would not be lacking in options. It’s a region that was once waters, and white sands, is the most visited of the islands in the Andamans, inaccurately believed to be inhabited by cannibals. It’s home to the and also the largest. And, what’s more to our point, there are more than 25 oldest (65,000 years!) and also one of the most isolated human tribes, the amazing diving hotspots dappled around Havelock. Sentinelese. Its capital, Port Blair, is where the most brutal prison of the On Day 1, I am introduced to the crew members as well as a group of colonial era, the Cellular Jail (now a museum), was located. The Andaman six guests (all Mumbaikars, like me; and in their late 30s). Back home, most and Nicobar Islands — far away from the country’s mainland, and closer of them had learnt some scuba diving theory and even practised diving in to Indonesia and Myanmar — constitute the most crucial region for our conƥned water with PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors), national security, so much so that a former Indian navy chief last year and were aiming to become PADI-certiƥed open water divers on this trip. remarked that the next Kargil could happen there. Being untrained, I had to make do with “Discover Scuba” dive, which is But, over the years, the intriguing Andamans, with its 572 islands, aimed at giving novices a taste of the underwater world. islets and rocks, has become famous for scuba diving, attracting not just The next day, my fellow guests were taken to a popular dive site Indians from other parts of the country but also adventure lovers from called “The Wall”, which is a 55-metre long submerged wall, covered overseas. It’s precisely to scuba diving that the Inƥniti, a liveaboard yacht, with corals and the resulting ecosystems. Their post-dive conversations dedicates itself to. A brainchild of Sunil Bakshi, founder and CEO of Karina revolved around what they had glimpsed — sea creatures with interesting Tourism and Travels, the 40m yacht has four decks, guest rooms and names such as parrot ƥsh, clownƥsh, barracuda and more. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 26 | SUMMER 2015 There are more than 25 fantastic diving hotspots around Havelock SUMMER 2015 | 27 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE CORBIS I f one had to describe the Andaman Islands in one eye-grabbing GETTY IMAGES BHARANY’S Havelock Island is the region’s most popular destination During the rest of the trip, the routine would be: thrice every day, the with island expeditions. On Day 4 afternoon, we head oƤ to check out divers would kit up with around 12kg of equipment, head oƤ to a diving ‘natural bridges’ — natural rock formations in the shape of a bridge — spot, execute perfect back-Ʀips oƤ the tender boats, to plunge into the on Neil Island, on Laxmanpur Beach. We had to walk and stagger through warm water, disappear for up to an hour, and come back with stories about rocks, dead corals, and a host of alive marine specimens before reaching the magical worlds they had just explored. “Howrah Bridge” (a term coined by the ƥrst Bengali settlers on the island) On my Discover Scuba dive, I get familiarised with the equipment and diving concepts like equalising during descent, learn about the underwater — the activity that made sitting by the ocean and watching the sun sinking down the horizon even more pleasurable. sign language common to divers all around the world, and learn to ƥn a bit. Day 4 evening was party time aboard the yacht, with free-Ʀowing wine At Shyam’s Reef, I got to spend 30 minutes in an underwater paradise, in and single malts, and dancing. The other Inƥniti guests were celebrating the company of crocodile ƥsh, beautiful yellow-tang ƥsh, giant triggerƥsh, getting their respective certiƥcations, and the fact that they would now and sea urchin (sitting on a seabed with pencil like spines). I was told that be able to dive anywhere in the world. Me? I was glad I had conquered my what I had seen was merely a sample, and that passionate divers dream of fear of being underwater. EXQUISITE JEWELLERY & FINE JAMAWAR SHAWLS encounters with manta rays, whale sharks, dolphins and more, and travel all across the world for the same. ,@=!FÍFALAGÌ=JKMFAIM=DAN=9:G9J<LJAHKAFL@=F<9E9F!KD9F<K While you’ll spend most of your Inƥniti time doing scuba diving and relaxing aboard the yacht, your experience will also be punctuated THE LEELA MAGAZINE J9F?AF?>JGEäLGêFA?@LKGJ<=L9ADKNAKALAFÍFALADAN=9:G9J<;GE ;9DDGFêâêéèáäãåáæãGJ=E9ADGF<AN=LJAHKAFÍFALDAN=9:G9J<;GE | 28 | SUMMER 2015 14, Sunder Nagar Market, New Delhi-110 003 | Contact : +91 11 4351 8755, 2435 3957 Fax : +91 1 1 2435 3081 | E-mail.: mail@bharanys.com PROFILE I ntroduced to the Indian hospitality and design industry in 1995, JeƤrey Wilkes’ association with the country has continually strengthened since then. His design journey with The Leela Group started with The Leela Mumbai. “We began work with The Leela with the renovation of rooms and suites of the Mumbai property, followed by The Leela Palace Udaipur. We were happy to have won the Best Suite Design Award for The Royal Suite here. Then, we designed the lounge in Mumbai and guest rooms of The Leela Goa,” says Wilkes. When Wilkes and his team started their work at The Leela Palace Chennai, Captain Nair approached them with an assignment related to the hotel chain’s Ʀagship property, The Leela Palace New Delhi. But DESIGNWILKES, his interior design studio, was inundated with projects, and so it couldn’t take up the oƤer. “But the Captain insisted we be involved in some capacity and so we did The Qube, Jamavar and the ESPA.” Today, the ƥrm is also involved in the group’s upcoming property in Jaipur. Wilkes’ aƧliation with The Leela goes beyond the realm of work, though. He fondly remembers his conversations with Captain Nair. “I always seemed to bump into him in the lobby (of The Leela Mumbai), as I frequently stayed there, even if I wasn’t visiting for business. He would stop, chat, smile and compliment me — he would tell whoever he was with what about good work we were doing and how much he loved it.” Wilkes says Captain Nair was always an enthusiastic man. “One of my last interactions with him was when we walked through the entire Chennai property during the ƥnishing stages,” Wilkes reminisces. “It took hours, and we were exhausted but not him! In fact, he insisted that he drive me to the main beach to experience it. He always made you feel happy and proud to be associated with The Leela Group… sharing his successes and including us in it, as we were all a part of the team.” Of his body of work for The Leela Group, Wilkes has his favourites: “I love the simplicity and controlled environment of the Qube, the wonderful tekri work in Udaipur, and in Chennai, the relationship of spaces through the entire ground Ʀoor.” Wilkes remembers that with each restaurant, each spa and each hotel, at The Leela, a clear brief was handed out. “But we are always allowed to Malaysia-based -HƨUH\:LONHV is the brain behind the interiors of many of the Leela Group’s properties — spas, restaurants, bars. In his three-decade long career, he has also worked extensively with a range of other renowned luxury hotel groups across the world, apart from conceptualising residences. $QDPLND%XWDOLDƥnds out more about the man, his approach to creativity and his association with the group. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 30 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 31 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE 3HUVRQDO 4XHVWLRQQDLUH bring forth our creativity,” he adds. “For instance, for the Library Bar in marvellous but also seen in Jaipur. Then the textiles: quilting and reverse Udaipur, the brief was quite simply ‘Costes Bar in Paris’. The resultant bar appliqué, weaving, beadwork, mirror work—it’s endless. And there’s inlay… was imbued with a warm, cosy and rich aesthetic, done up in vibrant red. with wood, metal, bone, shell, mirror… there’s an unbelievable palette of For this concept bar’s Chennai outpost, considering how hot the Southern incredible ƥnishes.” Wilkes credits his approach to creativity to the independence his city is, we did a blue-hued bar instead.” So, how does he come up with such a mixed bag of concepts, which parents oƤered him. “My mom was creative and dad was practical, and create a dialogue between the interiors and the local context? “In India, they never held me back. It made for a great background for a designer.” there is always so much of everything,” he aƧrms. “We always attempt to Incredibly, he wallpapered and painted the house when he was just 15. incorporate local elements but, of course, there is a cross over. Gorgeous “One year, there was a teacher’s strike, and we were oƤ from school for carved stone work is all over the country: the tekri from Udaipur is two months. I was bored. I thought, ‘I know how to paint and wallpaper…’ %HORZ The Qube, at The Leela Palace New Delhi )DFLQJSDJH The entrance to the bar Library Blu, at The Leela Palace Chennai 2EMHFWV\RXFDQśWGRZLWKRXW My Louis during my Ʀight’s take-oƤ; have a rock <RXUUHDOOLIHKHURHV My mom and dad Vuitton passport wallet, iPhone and all my crystal in my shaving bag; and I’m always for their unconditional love and constant Tod’s shoes touching wood support 2Q\RXUUHDGLQJOLVWThe Andy Cohen ,I\RXFRXOGFKDQJHRQHWKLQJDERXW\RX ,I\RXFRXOGOLYHDQ\ZKHUHLQWKHZRUOGLW Diaries, and the author’s other book, Most it would be… My inability to say no, and 25 ZRXOGEH I’m fortunate to have homes in Talkative. Hilarious pounds! the Gulf Islands oƤ the coast of Vancouver, 7KHXOWLPDWHOX[XU\ Sleep <RXUIDYRXULWHYLUWXH My inability to say in Palms Springs, California, and in Kuala <RXGRQśWOHDYHKRPHZLWKRXW My NO, again, …and my generosity Lumpur, but would love an Italian villa passport, iPhone, two rings. <RXUOLIHSKLORVRSK\ Celebrate <RXUSUHIHUUHGOHLVXUHDFWLYLWLHV ,GLRV\QFUDVLHV I close my eyes and pray everything Entertaining friends and planning holidays THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 32 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 My good friend, architect Bill Bensley said once, ‘Do what you think you should do, not what someone wants you to do’ | 33 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE and so, went on to do up the living and dining rooms all by myself. My His creativity is generously recorded in many completed and dad wanted to help because he loved that sort of thing but I wouldn’t upcoming luxury hospitality, commercial and residential projects have that,” Wilkes says. His neighbours called on him for this kind of work, across the country. (His completed projects include a residence for too, making it easy for Wilkes to pay for his two degrees (Bachelor of the Reddy’s in Hyderabad and the Ravissant store in New Delhi for Fine Arts and Bachelor of Applied Arts in Interior Design) at Ryerson Ravi Chawla, with whom the designer shares a “love of local craft”). University, in Toronto. DESIGNWILKES has an extensive list of ongoing projects, among them, Wilkes’ early days in design were spent in the same city, with luxury hotels in Mumbai, Goa, Jaipur, Hyderabad, Colombo, Bali and Dubai, Bryon Patton and Associates, doing condominiums. “My ƥrst project was Chutney Mary restaurant in London, Masala Grill in Chelsea, and the extremely special and exciting. I actually presented to the client on the rebranding of Masala Zone restaurants in Soho and Covent Garden. “We day I graduated from Ryerson. With my Bachelor’s degree in hand, we are busy and loving it!” presented a marketing centre, for which I had designed the architecture So what words have helped Wilkes along the way to the top of as well as the interiors.” From that ƥrst stepping stone, there’s been no his profession? “My good friend, architect Bill Bensley, said once, ‘Do looking back. After “17 wonderful years” with Lim Teo Wilkes Design what you think you should do, not what someone wants you to do.’ Works, he decided it was time to begin his own practice. “Call it my midlife Another piece of good advice came from my partner, Simon Gan, who said crisis,” he jokes. but immediately adds, matter-of-factly, “While I miss my I should not carry negative things forward, instead use that energy for former colleagues, I have enjoyed immensely the satisfaction of running something good’”. our own ƥrm.” Wilkes concludes by sharing the key lessons that have stayed with In the over three decades of work experience, Wilkes has amply him till this date, “Listen ƥrst. Stay positive. Even when you’re miserable; showcased his talent for designing idyllic properties, ideal to explore laughing about it helps. And always just do the absolute best you can do… luxurious interiors in leisure. “Research and inspiration are constants in never stop learning.” our lives; inspiration is everywhere, it never stops…” $ERYHDQGOHIW Private residences in Malaysia designed by Wilkes THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 34 | SUMMER 2015 $ERYHDQGULJKWWilkes has also designed private residences in India SUMMER 2015 | 35 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE DRINK Guyana:I Finally, couldn’t think of a original more A taste of the appropriate destination than have the four-column metal French Savalle still that produces a rum Carribean with a sweet, sugar cane Guyana, the heartland Much of the world’s rum is distiller. The modern version of sugarcane country. produced, as you doubtless of this still is versatile enough the Caribbean source the to most artisanal and rare rums for The Vault. nose combined with a dry Rum is practically the Guyanese. My days were spent visiting plenty of little bars tucked away being a pirate’s drink is still in small alleys, trying countless new rums. Finally, I prevalent, many islands of the ended up at the Diamond Distillery, where I tasted over a dozen expressions of El Dorado (which means ‘The Golden by diƤerent types (marks) of rum, ranging from the very light through to heavy bodied ones. St. Lucia: region also oƤer interesting One’), considered to be one of Guyana’s most treasured rums. owned qualities to produce nine completely know, in the Caribbean. While the traditional notion of rum Distillery, — unmatchable by any other a religion here for Diamond medium-bodied Ʀavour My ƥrst stop was The they high-end options. Demerara More little bars and a lot more rum. This time, I bond over more than just rum with a group of wizened old men in a bar; we watch a cricket match across the counter. While dissing the Distillers Limited, is the Caribbean’s largest exporter bowling on display, the merry men tell me how much they love their white rum of bulk rum and alcohol to Europe and North America. with coconut water... Hmmm interesting (I’m taking mental notes all the time). I ƥnd This distillery sits alongside the swaying plantations out that the French Caribbean makes its rum from sugar cane juice and calls it ‘Rhum of tall, sweet cane on the banks of the Demerara Agricole’, while the Non-French Caribbean islands use only molasses to make their rum. river. The unique Ʀavour and taste of their rums owes Here I sign up with Elements Eight, who say they would be very happy to partner a lot to the tropical climate of this lush country. with me. Elements Eight is a handcrafted rum made from premium molasses. The El Dorado has an unrivalled portfolio of age statement rums here undergo tropical ageing in select American wood barrels from Kentucky, Rums. The signiƥcance of this is that each age statement USA. An interesting ƥnd was their Spiced Rum, a handblend of pot and column still speciƥcally indicates the youngest rum in the blend, even rums, infused with 10 natural, exotic St. Lucian fruits and spices, the highlight being though the oldest may be many years older. Instantly, star anise. An absolute delight! We close the deal with what else but…more rum. knew I had to carry this gem of a rum back with me to India. The trivia of the 3 Stills: Demarara Distillers is unique in their operation of the original production stills used on three of the great sugar estates of the 18th and Keshav Prakash Martinique: Next stop was Martinique, the French Caribbean sugarcane island. Here, — Director of The I had a chance to sample the ubiquitous Ti Punch (their unique way of serving rum: along Vault, a Mumbai-based with ƥve ingredients which you can mix up to your taste) in many bars, and ƥne rums in many distilleries. One such outing was with Gregory Vernant, rum maker extraordinaire, 19th centuries. The Wooden CoƤey Still is the last concierge for world fully working example of its kind in the world today. whiskies and ƥne spirits, but, as much I loved it, I didn’t think the Indian palate would be ready for this yet. The food This still is the original and last surviving one from the went on a rum trail in here was outstanding, and what I enjoyed most was the overall casual vibe on the island. Enmore Sugar Estate, founded nearly 200 years ago. Demerara Distillers also beneƥt from being able the Caribbean last year who makes a magical rhum agricole called Neisson. Very sophisticated, dry and delicate; Guadaloupe: Another island, another Gregoire. This man crafts a tongue twister to operate the last two original wooden pot stills (one — shares his discoveries single, one double) in the world. These stills are over — rare spirits, Cuban rhum. Since Rhum Agricole is produced exclusively from sugar cane juice, it retains mojitos, Ti Punch. a greater amount of the original Ʀavor of the cane. Rhum Agricole is generally more 250-years-old and are highly valued by blenders and of a rhum agricole called Karukera. He is generous with his knowledge, time and other experts as a source of very heavy bodied, expensive than molasses-based rums. French-speaking islands such as Guadaloupe, very Ʀavourful and deeply aromatic rums. Haiti and Martinique are best known for producing this style. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 36 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 37 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE Haiti: It was post-earthquake time when I landed on this troubled long haul, but I shook hands with Luca, who instead promised me an island. Outside, all around me was terrible poverty and high security in annual India quota of precious Caroni Rum, the now extinct distillery in the wake of the UN relief measures. But in the Barban Court distillery, life Trinidad. Caroni was renowned throughout the world for producing one continued as usual. Rum is most certainly a way of life to the Caribbean of the ƥnest heavy rums, receiving high praise from the British Navy. people. I was ushered to the distillery straight from the ramshackle airport. Then in 2003, disaster struck. The closing of the nearby state-owned An extensive tour followed, wherein I tasted some of their amazing French sugar reƥnery resulted in the gradual decline of the Trinidad sugarcane oak matured rums. This was true rum heaven. production and it was only a matter of time before the Caroni distillery was The next day I met with Luca Gargano, the Ʀamboyant rum crusader visiting from Genova, Italy, who was in Haiti to discover organic rum made by the tribals. Bringing Barban Court to India did seem like a shut down shortly after. This rum is indeed in limited stock and extremely rare to procure.... Trip to Port-au-Prince most certainly worth it! Luca Gargano, who is one of the partners at Velier Spa in Italy that imports the Caroni Rum, is known to promote authentic tribal rums made by natives in the Caribbean THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 38 | SUMMER 2015 CORBIS Art for your Floors The Cuban rums are slightly lighter in body and very wellbalanced and fruity Cuba: This is where I tasted the most delicious mojitos ever! The Above left: The famous Caroni Rum distillery was located in Trinidad and Tobago Above right: Cuban mojitos are delicious Jamaica: Though Jamaica was one of the islands I was looking Cubans absolutely love their mojitos, so much so that it can be called forward to visiting on my Caribbean sojourn, I sadly had to skip it as I their national drink. The superlative Ʀavour of the cocktail here is largely simply couldn’t make the time. A must-visit here is the glorious Appleton due to the ƥne quality of cane sugar that is used. Cuba is world renowned Estate, situated in the Nassau Valley: it is known for its exceptional quality for its sugar industry, which forms the backbone of its economy. It also age statement rums. The special ingredient they use is a natural culture of produces some of the world’s most respected brands of rums, the most yeast in the fermenting process that contributes to the unique taste and popular ones being Havana Club and Ron Cubay, which pair wonderfully aroma of their rums. well with the Cuban hand-rolled cigars. The Carpet Cellar “Persian Kashan -Pashmina Carpet” To commemorate 50 years of Jamaica’s independence, in 2012 Spanish-speaking islands and countries, such as Cuba, Guatemala, Appleton released a 50 year old rum that is priced at a staggering $4620! Panama, Puerto Rico etc., traditionally produce a¬ejo (aged) rums with a In 1962, several barrels were set aside to age and were carefully monitored fairly smooth taste. The Cuban rums, in particular, are slightly lighter in for 50 years to ensure the rum achieved a high degree of smoothness, body and very well-balanced and fruity. The Havana Club 3 year old rum, complexity and richness. This is said to be the oldest rum ever available for example, is a brilliant white rum that makes a perfect mojito. for sale! THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 40 | SUMMER 2015 1, Anand Lok, Khel Gaon Marg, Siri Fort Road, New Delhi - 110049. 7el. 91 11 4141 (-Pail inIo#FarSetFellar.FoP :eEVite www.FarSetFellar.FoP httSVwww.IaFeEook.FoPtheFarSetFellar httSVtwitter.FoP7he&arSet&ellar 4 D, SXltanSXr, MG Road, AdMaFent to the SXltanSXr Metro Station, New Delhi - 11000. 7el. 91 11 0 91 (Herbal Washing & Restoration also undertaken) 23(N ALL DA<S 10.0 AM 72 .0 3M FASHION sari goes couture The The national costume has a new avatar. Many new avatars, in fact. In recent times, designers have added cuts, folds and stitches to what has always, essentially, been a long length of loom. Tarun Tahiliani Monisha Jaisingh I Shivan & Narresh n 2014, when Sonam Kapoor stepped on to the Cannes red carpet, in an Anamika Khanna lace sari, with an embroidered jacket, the world sat up to watch. The national costume had truly gone global. Monisha Jaisingh Kapoor and Khanna, together, played up every aspect of the sari — its sex appeal in the sensuous lace, its versatility in teaming it with a jacket, an Gaurav Gupta aesthetic that was essentially Indian (special courtesy to the nose ring) and a showstopper of a look truly worthy of the red carpet. While it would be inaccurate to say that this was the turning point in the fortune of the sari, it was deƥnitely a watershed. For a while now, designers have been playing around with the six yards, in an attempt to give the fashion-forward woman a garment that ƥts in well with not just her sense of style, but one that also works with her lifestyle and her aspirations. From pre-draped and pre-stitched saris, to styles of drape and mixing-and-matching, they’ve done it all, and succeeded in making the sari more wearable, more western and more couture. The Constructed Drapes It all started when supermodel Mehr Rampal stepped out in a pre-draped sari by Tarun Tahiliani. The Tarun Tahiliani sari was stitched on to the petticoat, with the pleats held in place. All Rampal had to do was slip it on, zip it up from the side, and put the pallu in place. This innovation was a masterstroke on Tahiliani’s part, addressing a desperate need for women who are always struggling to get their pleats just right. “I think pre-constructed saris are a response for the women of today who have much lesser time to dress,” says Tahiliani. “Comfort and style is now of paramount importance to them. From nine yards of fabric, it has become a pre-structured draped sari with zips.” In 2006, Gaurav Gupta showcased a collection that included quite a few pre-stitched saris, with engineered details. “I worked with pre-pleated georgettes, with constructed shoulders,” he recalls. Gaurav Gupta “It was time, I felt, for the sari to go couture.” Gupta, too, feels he is speaking to the modern woman through his creations. “A lot of my clients are young women who wish to wear a sari, but are not entirely comfortable with draping it,” he explains. “The pre-stitched sari gives them a way around that. Moreover, with the main body of the sari already in place, we can experiment with elements around the shoulder.” THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 42 | SUMMER 2015 Shivan & Narresh With the quintessential drape having turned into a stitched garment, it was only a matter of time before it would get married with silhouettes that were, in essence, western. Back in 2009, when Gupta showcased his sari gown, it was a novelty, but, quickly enough, it became par for the course. From Shantanu & Nikhil to Monisha Jaising, every designer, who has designs on Indian as well as western wear, has a sari gown in his/her collection. “It’s a neo-classic aesthetic,” says Gupta. “And Ʀowy georgettes are the way to go — traditional saris should be allowed to remain traditional, so I never touch those. But you can do so much with georgettes, create such sensual silhouettes and add striking details. It’s future-primitive.” He calls the move to sari gowns, sari lehengas, while hinting at a sari jumpsuit, the ‘new Indian wear’. “Rather than the appeal of a ƥtted sheath dress, draped dresses rely on the allure of romantic drapes and layers,” says Tahiliani. Jaising, in her World Bride collection, took the sari gown to a more literal conclusion: she took the magniƥcent Kanjeevaram and turned it into a Victorian gown. “The pallu is pleated and tucked into a woven cocooned bodice-like, full-bodied, draped skirt in woven silk with a temple border—a very modern translation of the traditional sari,” she says. “The traditional Indian garment is evolving in a way that is convenient and less time-consuming to drape, while maintaining its feminine look.” Jaising believes this shift in silhouettes indicates that the sari is making its way back into the daily wardrobe of women. “This one is created for the girl on the run,” she says, about her collection. Fun with Folds From the north-east to the Konkan, and from the Gangetic plains to the Deccan, the national garment folds over in unbelievable ways. Not just across space, but through time, too, the sari has reinvented itself in a fascinating progression. In his more recent collections, Tahiliani has tried his hand at unconventional drapes that draw inspiration from our heritage. The Draupadi drape, with its mystical allure, very eƤectively blends tradition with couture. “All Indian fashion came from draping of textile and the beauty of it is that it looks diƤerent on each person,” he says. “So there really are inƥnite possibilities. More stylised, more clinched, this drape highlights the waist, which I believe really is the best part of a woman’s body.” Tahiliani’s recent collections have also been replete with dhoti-inspired drapes, lehenga saris and concept saris, which are very contemporary. “I wanted to create something which screams Indian but has a universal appeal to it,” he says. Urvashi Kaur, known for her work with handlooms, has always been inspired by the weaves from across the country. “I grew up watching my mother wear saris and was always fascinated,” she says. This fascination has found its way into her collection through the weaves she works with, and through her breezy, draped silhouettes. From knotting the pallu over the shoulder, to playing with the way the pleats fall, her collections have an international vibe but an Indian aesthetic. And then, there is the modern designer’s take on the patli — traditionally, when the sari is woven such that the pleats are of a diƤerent colour and weave from the rest of the sari. Masaba Gupta played with colour and print, to give the patli a quirky twist, which became signature of her collections. For yet another Cannes appearance, Khanna gave Kapoor a pale pink net sari, with a Ʀouncy drape, very much in line with a couture gown, but this was a drape all the way. Khanna has created quite a niche with her fusion saris. She works with the six yards and folds them around to create western and Indo-western silhouettes that are always showstoppers. Tarun Tahiliani THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 44 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 Monisha Jaisingh | 45 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE The Wonder of Weaves Abraham Thakore The Unlikely Teams The Benarasis, too, have gone fashionable. Time was when women wore their saris with a pair of boots, or with a trench coat, in winter, and that Designers like Abraham & Thakore, Anupama was the ultimate in chic. But then again, time was when chiƤons were the ultimate in sensuality. Dayal and Ritu Kumar are tapping into the From Khanna’s saris with jackets, to Tahiliani’s saris with bodices and corsets and Shantanu talent of the weavers and collaborating with & Nikhil’s saris with lycra pants, the sari has come a long way. So long that in 2011, them to create some never-seen-before swimwear designers Shivan & Narresh decided to marry the sari with the bikini! saris. While Abraham & Thakore have been “A client who travelled a lot came to us with a request — she often, on working with khadi weaves for a while now, in 2013, they joined hands with textile house Ekaya, to give a new dimension to the traditional Tanchois and Butidar saris of Benaras, through patterns that went far beyond the trademark paisley bootis, to lend them a vibe that is modern yet steeped in heritage. Dayal, too, recently joined hands with Ekaya to create, as part of her Kama collection, a line of georgettes and crepes that are traditional in technique, but modern and Ʀirtatious in appeal. Sanjay Garg, of Raw Mango, too, creates saris along similar lines, and sources from artisanal clusters around Benaras. The grand dame of Indian fashion, Kumar, has been working with local artisans and weavers, to promote Indian textile crafts for a very long time, now. But she recently stepped up her eƤorts, by adopting 20 Benarasi looms, in an eƤort to modernise the weave and creating green fashion, through the use of only Ahimsa silk. her travels, would stop by the beach with her husband, but she had only ever worn saris and was rather uncomfortable with the idea of swimwear,” reveals Narresh Kukreja of the designer duo. “She “You can drape the trail whichever way you’d like — over the shoulder, like a traditional sari, or like a sarong, or like a dress that shows a leg,” says Kukreja was wondering if we could create something for her that would take into account her insecurities that would be more modest than the swimsuits we usually create.” So the designers took Italian jersey, which is similar to the fabric used in swimsuits, but ƥner, so it drapes like a soft silk fabric, and attached it to a swimsuit, like a trail, about one-third the length of a traditional sari. “You can drape the trail whichever way you’d like — over the shoulder, like a traditional sari, or like a sarong, or like a dress that shows a leg,” explains Kukreja. “Italian jersey doesn’t crush or crease, and is resistant to stains from body lotions and sun creams, so it’s ideal to lounge on the beach in, or to even step into the water, while wearing.” Famous for the liquid corset lace sari they dressed international style icon and burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese in, on her India visit a couple of years ago, their sari designs are all about the convenience. More recently, they’ve designed a resort sari — also in Italian jersey, but with a more traditional silhouette, and in brighter colours. It has pockets, so you can keep your sunblock handy, while on that beach holiday. Shivan & Narresh THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 46 | SUMMER 2015 Anupama Dayal SUMMER 2015 | 47 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE PHOTOGRAPHY The world through National Geographic National Geographic: Around The World in 125 Years, published by TASCHEN and released earlier this year in India, is a one-of-a-kind coƤee table book. Landscapes, architecture, people, wildlife — TASCHEN has brought together some of the most stunning photographs from the magazine’s archives, in Washington. Here’s a glimpse of what the three-volume book contains. Photographed by Steve Winter Mexico, date uncertain A strange sight to encounter in a Mexican dugout canoe: two captive jaguars sprawled out, greeting the photographer with a growl THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 48 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 49 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE John Burcham Arizona, 2005 Setting his tripod upon a ledge at Toroweap Overlook, photographer Michael Nichols prepares to photograph the Grand Canyon. His challenge was to depict something as iconic—or overly familiar—as the Grand Canyon in an entirely new way, “to work through the clichés so that XNTB@MFDSSNSGDFNNCRSTƤŚGDR@HCř(SŗRHMBQDCHAKXCHƧBTKSSDBGMHB@KKXATS(CNMŗSV@MS @MXANCXSNRDDSGDSDBGMHB@KVGDMSGDXRDDSGDOHBSTQD(SŗRRTOONRDCSNADROHQHST@KŚ B. Anthony Stewart New York, 1957 '@HKDCAX@VDKBNLHMFƦNSHKK@ SGD,@XƦNVDQ((@RB@KDQDOKHB@NE the famous original, enters New 8NQJ'@QANQVHSG@KKR@HKRRDSSN @RO@MJHMFAQDDYD KSGNTFGRGD has crossed the Atlantic Ocean as her forerunner did, entirely under canvas, a passing helicopter will RNNMA@BJVHMCGDQ@MCRGDŗKK G@UDSNADSNVDCSGDƥM@KEDV X@QCRSNGDQADQSG THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 50 | SUMMER 2015 W. Robert Moore Hong Kong, 1931 Life teems on a Hong Kong staircase. When seen from the G@QANQSGDBHSXQNRD so steeply to cloudcapped Victoria /D@JSG@SATHKCHMFR seemed to stand atop one another. While SGD!QHSHRGBNKNMXŗR main avenues ran horizontally, the numerous cross RSQDDSRQDRDLAKDC ladders, and some were so precipitous that they turned into stone steps, SQ@UDQR@AKDNMKX AXENNSNQRDC@M chair. Hundreds of thousands of Chinese lived, loved, laughed, kept shop, or otherwise transacted ATRHMDRRHMSGHR dizzying world of K@MCHMF@MCA@KBNMX THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 52 | SUMMER 2015 Facing page, above: Above: Luis Marden New Mexico, 1939 Steve McCurry Sri Lanka, 1995 While a confused motorist receives directions from a state SQNNODQ@CNFCNDRMŗSKNNJKHJD it plans on going anywhere /DQBGDCNMVNNCDMRSHKSR2HMFG@KDRDLDMƥRGENQRONSSDCGDQQHMF HMSGDLNMRNNMK@RGDCRTQEONTMCHMF2QH+@MJ@ŗRRNTSGBN@RS When the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami crashed over these same AD@BGDRHSSNNJSGDKHUDRENQ2HMFG@KDRDVHSGHS Facing page, below: Thomas J. Abercrombie +DA@MNM A shepherd leading his charges CNVM@ATRX1TD&DNQFDR/HBNS epitomizes the contrasts often encountered in mid-20th BDMSTQX!DHQTS'DVD@QR Q@A F@QAATS@KRN@6DRSDQMRSXKD jacket. Part Muslim and part Christian; part East and part 6DRS+DA@MNMŗRB@OHS@KV@RSGD ř/@QHRNESGD,HCCKD$@RSŚ@R famous for its glittering cafes @RENQHSRA@MJRA@Y@@QR@MC trading houses THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 54 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 55 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE CINEMA I n an industry that thrives on quantity over quality, writer-directorproducer Dibakar Banerjee is an anomaly. He has made ƥve ƥlms in seven years; his sixth feature ƥlm, Detective Byomkesh Bakshy!, was released recently. But each of those released ƥlms, be it his debut, Khosla Ka Ghosla, or his follow-up, Oye Lucky! Lucky Oye! or the experimental Love Sex Aur Dhokha or the political thriller Shanghai, has pushed the envelope more than a little. Banerjee has often been described as the “thinking man’s director”, “poster boy for independent cinema” and a maker of “cerebral cinema”. An entry into the advertising industry was followed by an education at the National School of Design. Khosla Ka Ghosla, a quintessential Delhi story, won him his ƥrst National Award. Much like his own endeavours in Bollywood, the Delhi-born Banerjee constantly paints Davids taking on Goliaths, often taking on issues concerning the Indian middle class. Detective Byomkesh Bakshy! sees another variation The thinking man’s director Director Dibakar Banerjee within his oeuvre: a 1943 set detective story. If his lyrical and nuanced on his recent ƥlm Detective chapter in the Bombay Talkies omnibus was homage to one personal Byomkesh Bakshy!, which recreates on screen India’s idol (Satyajit Ray), his latest ƥlm pays tribute to a child’s imagination kindled by the fascinating world of a sleuth in Calcutta in the words most famous ƥctional of Sharadindu Bandyopadhyay. detective, the ƥlmmakers he Banerjee, who says his looks up to, and more. alternative career might have been as an illustrator, who turns his back ƥrmly on his previous %\8GLWD-KXQMKXQZDOD ƥlms, which stand as a stark reminder of his “mistakes”, tells us more about his art. :KDWDWWUDFWHG\RXWRƩOPPDNLQJ" I can’t exactly pinpoint what got me into it, but because I have been asked this question before I have tried to ƥgure it out. As a kid, I used to ƥb a lot. I used to say that I know music from Scotland, I have travelled around the world, my father is a swashbuckling forest oƧcer, etc. In hindsight, it probably means that I would like to hold an audience’s attention and tell them a story. As I grew up, the ƥbbing reduced because I realised I was not enjoying lying with a straight face and making myself the hero of the story that much. Then I began to enjoy sketching and the THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 56 | SUMMER 2015 Detective Byomkesh Bakshy! revolves @QNTMCSGDƥBSHNM@KCDSDBSHUDŗRƥQRSB@RD SUMMER 2015 | 57 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE (CNMŗSB@QD about any of LXƥKLR(KNNJ upon them with HMCHƤDQDMBD They are behind LD KKSGDX@QD for me is a record of my mistakes 5LJKW3VNƥKLRSG@SG@UD HMƦTDMBDC!@MDQIDD %HORZRajit Kapoor played Byomkesh Bakshi in the famous TV series on Doordarshan !@MDQIDDŗRNTDUQDHMBKTCDRƥKLRRTBG@R.XD+TBJXʖ+TBJX.XDʖ@MC*GNRK@J@&GNRK@ visual arts. I also enjoyed writing and music. I really enjoyed shaping the the best and scariest ƥlms I have seen in my life; scary because it shows a 1993) starring Rajit Kapur. I quite liked them, though they seem dated. I music or sketch or writing a story. Alongside I was watching ƥlms on TV director at the peak of his powers. Quentin Tarantino is such an inƦuential have watched some of the Bengali ƥlms, but over the last few years, I have and on screen and unconsciously I began to realise that cinema was one director; Jackie Brown and Death Proof are amazing. So was the ƥrst scene consciously kept away from them so as to not get inƦuenced. medium that got the visual, the aural and the literary all together. It kind of of Inglourious Basterds. :KDW GRHV %\RPNHVK KDYH LQ FRPPRQ ZLWK VD\ 6KHUORFN saved me from lying and ƥbbing and gave me a tool to tell my stories as a narrative. The other answer would be: I cannot really pinpoint how, when %HVLGHV WKH DERYH FDQ \RX QDPH VRPH VHPLQDO PRYLHV WKDW +ROPHVRU+HUFXOH3RLURW" and why ƥlms attracted me.. I think the truth lies somewhere between KDYHLQƪXHQFHG\RX" What is common to all of them is that they are hugely misunderstood these two. Among Indian ƥlms, Bandit Queen, Maqbool, Hazaaron Khwaishein and that’s what I loved. This is one aspect of the detective trope which Aisi, Mirch Masala, Holi and Junoon. Internationally, Clockwork Orange, I have explored — that he is misunderstood, mistrusted and not really Memories of Murder, Mother, Gomorrah, French Connection and Z. liked, because he says things you may not want to hear, but you should. his extreme sophistication of technique with primitive equipment, hugely :K\GLG\RXGHFLGHWRPDNHDƩOPDERXWDQ,QGLDQGHWHFWLYHLQ :KHUHGRHV'HWHFWLYH%\RPNHVK%DNVK\ƩWLQWR\RXURHXYUH" drew me. Almost all his ƥlms — from the early ones to mid-career — have DSHULRGVHWWLQJ" I have no idea. I wanted to make it right after Khosla Ka Ghosla. What I taught me something. Ray was one of the best dialogue writers. If you I was attracted to the complete Indianness, without being revivalist, of am trying to do with it is to go back to when I was 16 and reading a good know Bengali, you will understand how cleverly designed they are. Martin Sharadindu Bandyopadhyay’s stories of Byomkesh. They are Scorsese also hugely aƤected me from the time I was 15-16. These were unconsciously, completely and securely Indian, with the two huge inƦuences in the beginning. At that point, it was about liking all the inƦuence of a western civilization by virtue their ƥlms and being aƤected by their vision. Another guy who terriƥes me of being a colony and all the cultural deposit of because of his control of the medium is Stanley Kubrick. 200-300 years of Indian thinking. The stories :KLFKƩOPPDNHUVGR\RXDGPLUH" There are many. Satyajit Ray’s ƥlms, for their simplicity and directness and rip-roaring yarn, trying to translate that yarn on to the audience with my own interpretation of the character and of Calcutta the way it was in 1943. The special thing I have been trying to do, which I am kicked about, is an anti-period period ƥlm. When we look at are also completely original, though detective a period ƥlm, we are so overwhelmed by the $Q\ƩOPVLQSDUWLFXODU" stories are somewhat inspired, as they are a fact that it is period that we start designing a At diƤerent times, diƤerent ƥlms became my favourites for diƤerent western concept. But his stories pull you in lot of artiƥcial ƦuƤ around it, for example the reasons. Pather Panchali and Charulata are everybody’s favourites and and you forget everything else. language which is neither the language of the period nor the language of the audience. It is Stanley Kubrick is NMDNE!@MDQIDDŗR E@UNTQHSDƥKLL@JDQR CORBIS they are mine as well. I tremendously liked Shatranj Ke Khiladi for the THE LEELA MAGAZINE world of Lucknow and the ennui he designed. And what fantastic casting +DYH\RXZDWFKHGWKHSUHYLRXVYHUVLRQV of Amjad Khan as Wajid Ali Shah! The smudge of make up at the end of ř WKH 79 VKRZ DQG VRPH ƩOPV ř RI Devi (with Sharmila Tagore) is so scary. Scorsese’s Raging Bull remains my %\RPNHVK%DNVK\" favourite and I watch it again and again. Kubrick’s Barry Lyndon is one of I have watched the Hindi series (Byomkesh Bakshi, | 58 | SUMMER 2015 a constructed piece of artiƥciality somewhere in between that I feel strongly against. All period ƥlms are impressions, memories or interpretations SUMMER 2015 of a time gone by. In India, when we think of a period | 59 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE 2@SX@IHS1@XŗR"GHQHX@JG@M@ED@STQDC!XNLJDRG!@JRGH ƥlm, we think of cardboard sets, gaudy costumes and people speaking in 'R\RXWDNH\RXUZRUNKRPH" a way that is nuts. Nobody talks like that. When I end up going home, I don’t. So that’s your answer. :KDWGR\RXPHDQE\DQWLSHULRGSHULRGƩOP" +RZGR\RXIHHODERXW\RXUSUHYLRXVƩOPV" We make period ƥlms in the shadow of the ƥlms we remember of that I don’t have a fondness for any of my ƥlms. I don’t care for any of them. I period. Now imagine traveling to 1943 and seeing it through your look upon them with indiƤerence. They are behind me. All they are for me contemporary eyes — they have their own jokes, their own ways of is a record of my mistakes. They are gone. I can’t change them or better expressing which are natural and real, and they are also uncoordinated. them. You can only work on your next ƥlm to improve. Imagine shooting in 1943 the way we would shoot in 2014. Calcutta in 1943 was a thriving, gritty, wartime city with a lot of crime, smuggling and :KHUHGR\RXJHWLGHDVIRU\RXUƩOPV" political activity. There were spies, soldiers, a thriving China Town; it was I can’t tell. Either it’s too random a process or the process underlying it is so a cosmopolitan city. It was rich and commercially successful. I needed to complex and so huge that it can only be ƥgured out by a supercomputer, catch that essence of Bengali life. in the sense that there are so many factoids, information, incidents that 'R\RXKDYHDSURFHVVZKHQLWFRPHVWRZULWLQJ" cannot pinpoint it. If you can pinpoint it, then it won’t be so subconscious. I am not a good scriptwriter, so I co-write my scripts. Urmi (Juvekar) and I The motive should remain primal. go into shaping your decision on the ƥlm you are going to make, that you have long sessions in her oƧce or mine. We try and keep a strict regimen, but it does get broken up with my various duties as a director and producer. :KDWGR\RXGRDWWKHHQGRIDZRUNLQJGD\" I try to spend time with the family. Don’t get too much time with them, :KDWLQVSLUHV\RXGXULQJWKHZULWLQJSURFHVV" but beyond that, unwinding is a book, listening to a piece of music or To prime myself, I listen to a lot of a particular kind of music that gives me traveling. I also unwind when I sketch. An alternative career is to be an the emotional undercurrent of the ƥlm or some scene. I am discovering illustrator. The only problem is that illustrating is even less paying than new kinds of music. I am always reading new books. I don’t watch too ƥlmmaking. Nothing unwinds you like staring into empty space — just half many ƥlms. an hour of silent staring into inƥnity. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 60 | SUMMER 2015 DISCOVER INDIA The temples in Khajuraho, in the state of Madhya Pradesh, were rediscovered in the 19th century by a British oƧcer. Today, the sandstone marvels, famous for their intricately detailed erotic carvings, are a world heritage site. And Khajuraho has much more to oƤer to the tourist, including a national park and a scenic landscape. A tribute to I n around 1150 A.D. the Chandela dynasty was defeated by Mughal LOVE invaders. The citizens of the ancient city of Vatsa considered their city temples even more important than their lives. Sixty of the eighty-ƥve sacred sites had been destroyed due to the religious intolerance of the Islamic invaders. The citizens left Vatsa and moved elsewhere. They knew that their saving grace was solitude and inactivity would convince the Mughals to ignore their beloved city and spare their temples. The land was eventually overtaken by an overgrowth of date palms, a tree that grows rampantly in the area which is how Khajuraho gets its modern name: from the word Khajur, which means dates. In 1838, the British army captain T.S. Burt was amazed at what he stumbled on during his travels through Madhya Pradesh. A ghost town that was run over by date palms at the centre of which was a group of temples whose walls contained graphic sculptures that, according to one theory, depict the range of human sexuality. Today, these temples are a big tourist attraction. The Khajuraho group of monuments shows India’s diversity of beliefs. While the largest temple, Kandariya Mahadeva, is dedicated to Shiva, there are also temples dedicated to Vishnu, Hanuman and Parvati. Try paying an early morning darshan at the sun temple of Chitragupta or visit the Yogini temple, dedicated to 64 yoginis, considered the incarnations of Mother Goddess Shakti. The architecture of the temples is intricate. The temples are all concentric, self-repeating spirals supported by a foundation of pillars that peak into a dome. They all follow the design principles of Vaastu-Shastra intricately carved with divine imagery leaving no room for empty space. Interspersed with carvings are sanksrit poetry. Also: only ten percent of all the temples here depict sexuality. THE LEELA MAGAZINE GETTY IMAGES the Indian art of creating sacred spaces. Every inch of the temple walls is The Khajuraho Temples were built between AD 900 and 1130 | 62 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 63 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE SRINATH RAO Above: The gardens of the western group of temples Left: The Khajuraho dance festival attracts performers from all over the world The temples are set against the backdrop of the beautiful Vindhya range: the landscape is full of scenic beauty and picturesque hills and Kuchipudi, etc. ... The town also turns into a bazaar during the week as local artisans turn into vendors and put up stalls selling local arts and crafts. Around 40 minutes from Khajuraho is The Panna National Park, which actually go up to 40 Degree Celsius in summer, so keep yourself well- is home to 17 tigers. Their biodiversity includes several species of rare hydrated and wear loose cotton clothing. The ideal time to visit the city is migratory birds such as the honey huzzard, king vulture, blossom-headed between the months of October and March. parakeet, paradise Ʀycatcher, etc. Apart from these, you may also spot hyenas, wolves, wild dogs, leopards, deer and pythons. of the city head to the Archeological Museu. Also visit the Adivart You can’t go to Khajuraho and not stop for a meal at Raja’s café. A Tribal and Folk Art museum, which gives you a taste of the vibrant beautiful courtyard shaded by a 170-year-old neem tree and a terrace- tribal culture of both Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh, showcasing view of the temples, the café serves some sumptuous Indian cuisine and pointillist Bhili paintings, terracotta Jhoomar sculptures, masks, statues guess what else? Wood-ƥred pizzas! and bamboo Ʀutes. GETTY IMAGES Above: The Panna National Park, around 31 km from the temples, is home to 17 tigers Left: The majestic sculptures of Jagdambi Temple valley that you can just drive through. The weather does get hot and can If you want detailed information on the history and architecture THE LEELA MAGAZINE While the largest temple, Kandariya Mahadeva, is dedicated to Shiva, there are also temples dedicated to Vishnu, Hanuman and Parvati Pick up some souvenirs on your way back home, from the Kandariya One of the city’s famous events is the Khajuraho dance festival, in art and culture. Here one ƥnds replicas of the temple walls, marble and the last week of February every year, where dancers of international wood carvings and local textiles. You may also want to buy a copy of the acclaim come to perform traditional styles such as Kathak, Bharatnatyam, famous Indian treatise on love, the Kamasutra, by Sage Vatsyayana. | 64 | SUMMER 2015 THE LEELA MAGAZINE SRINATH RAO The temples are all concentric, self-repeating spirals supported by a foundation of pillars that peak into a dome | 65 | SUMMER 2015 FOOD The Leela Palace Udaipur’s Culinary Spectacle Ayurveda-inƦuenced meals, contemporary Indian cuisine with a twist, a “T his evening, you have the best table in Udaipur, Ma’am,” of birds; and, at a far distance on the top of a lush forested hill, Deelip Kumar Tiwari, Assistant Manager (F&B), who handles the impregnable walls of the Sajjan Garh, the monsoon palace of the Sheesh Mahal tells me as I take in the picture perfect frames. erstwhile kings. I am at the special chef’s table in the alcove of the al fresco dining area of I have often heard of cities that are infused with a sense of history, Sheesh Mahal, The Leela Palace Udaipur’s signature restaurant, with a short and I suspect Rajasthan has more history and royalty per square km than latticed boundary wall separating me from a shimmering Lake Pichola. The any other destination in India. Through the three days that The Leela view skims across to the glittering skyline on the other side of the lake, Palace Udaipur hosts me, the well-informed team of the hotel narrate which is dotted by sharply-edged silhouettes of the rugged Aravalli range fascinating legends: about Maharana Pratap’s valour while ƥghting bitter and Udaipur’s glamorous landmarks — Jagmandir, the palace on one of battles with the Mughals even as other Rajasthani royal clans were striking the natural islands within the lake, which became a refuge for Shahajahan deals with them, or the jauhar (self-immolation) committed by the women masterclass in traditional Marwari savouries, local delicacies served in gorgeous when he was on the run from his father, Emperor Jahangir, and which today of Chittor (the old capital of the dynasty), when faced with the prospect dining destinations, colourful vegetable and spice markets — the hotel’s is a popular wedding venue; the yellow sandstone City Palace complex, of being captured by the marauding army led by the Sultan of Delhi, a part of which continues to be the residence of Rana Arvind Singh Alauddin Khilji. recently launched culinary tour is a mélange of beautiful gourmet experiences. By Deepali Nandwani Mewar, the 76th custodian of the erstwhile Mewar dynasty; Jag Niwas, But I was in Udaipur on a diƤerent kind of adventure: to experience a the pristine white summer palace; Arsi Vilas, a small island which bespoke culinary sojourn at The Leela Palace Udaipur, a stunning property once functioned as an armoury and is a sanctuary for a variety which stands at the edge of Lake Pichola. Sheesh Mahal’s al fresco dining area has views of several of Udaipur’s ancient monuments lined up like sentinels on the other edge of Lake Pichola THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 68 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 69 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE Day 1 Three hours later, my next stop on this culinary tour is at the reception pulpy Uttapam cooked with vanilla pod, and innovative chutneys: Tangy With its chequered Ʀoors, ornate chattris (umbrellas), tables named after area of the Royal Heritage Haveli spa, where Tiwari will take me through beetroot, sweet pineapple and garlic. Appetisers quickly followed: A spices (mine was Star Anise), twinkling glass lanterns and quaint customs- an elaborate tea ceremony. Placed on a comfortable wood diwan with kebab platter with muniƥcent portions of Khumb ki galouti (mushroom driven ceremonies — dining at the al fresco section of Sheesh Mahal, huge throw pillows is a low table with a selection of delicacies — dhokla kebabs), velvety smooth Mewe dahi ki tikki (a blend of yoghurt and dried cosseted by an ink blue, star-studded sky, is a royal experience. Tiwari and khandvi from neighbouring Gujarat, wafer-thin khakras, and little idlis whole milk), and a textured Anjeer akhrot ka paneer tikka (Cottage cheese places an ornate silver bowl with rose petals in front of me, in which I wash coated with dry garlic chutney. But the stars of this show are the selection stewed with apricot and dry fruits). my hands with rose essence-laced water poured from a long necked jug. At of tea leaves in shot glasses. the end of the long drawn dinner, he ties a red holy thread on my left hand and hands over a potli with the star anise as a takeaway gift. The strong Royal Heritage liquors are usually served in a martini The innovative kebabs served are marinated with a variety of spices As the lights of the City Palace Complex dimmed, the team brought Tiwari recounts the fascinating history of tea and its journey from out the main course. The Lasooni palak chilgoze ki sabzi, a spinach dish China to England, and ultimately to India, where the delicious masala cooked with garlic and pine nuts, which are native to Kashmiri cuisine; The atmospheric setting is a perfect backdrop to the lavish dinner chai reƦects nothing of the purity of the original brew. Our ƥrst tea is the a spicy Shalgham sabzi made with turnips; slightly tangy Gujarati kadhi spread. But to describe the meals, I have to rewind to the morning strong English Breakfast tea, “which blends Assam and Kenyan teas. But (cumin, coriander, yoghurt and green chillies), Masaledar karela (bitter conversation with Executive Chef Chandra Kumar TK and Pratap Singh in India we use Assam and Darjeeling”. The ones he serves after this have gourd soaked in salt water to remove the bitterness and stuƤed with Bhandari, the spa manager, who take me through the ancient Ayurvedic serious pedigree, inspired as they are by diƤerent tea traditions. There is spices), delicately aromatic Zafrani pulao (saƤron-infused pulao), and philosophy that guides the bespoke culinary journey, which draws the aromatic and refreshing Earl Grey tea, the best of which has a sharp a choice of breads like Laccha paratha (a multi-layered shallow fried liberally from local food traditions. “The menus are going to be customised citrus Ʀavour and aroma of Italian bergamot oil and is named after the 2nd Ʀatbread) and ajwaini paratha (Ʀatbread suƤused with carom seeds). according to your doshas,” Chef Chandra tells me. Bhandari explains the Earl Grey, the British Prime Minister in the 1830s. The delicate Jasmine tea No meal in India is ever complete without a traditional dessert: For basic principles of Ayurveda: the three doshas, kapha, vata and pita, and is derived from a tea plant that is grown in close proximity to a jasmine my dosha, the good chefs sent out a selection of kaju barƥ (a cashew how they mould not just our personalities and physical appearance, but plant, so that their scents blend. The Chinese, who drink Jasmine tea at sweet), Bharwan gulab jamun (stuƤed with dry fruits) and the classic also alter our sleep patterns and cause various health problems we suƤer every meal, also mix the tea leaves with sweet-scented Jasmine oil. For Bengali sweet, Chum chum (teardrop shaped rasgullas cooked from Ʀour, from. Meals are cooked using ingredients and spices that complement the beautiful golden liquid of the Chamomile tea, the Ʀower heads of the cottage cheese made from fresh cow milk, cardamoms and nuts). After a the doshas. “People who have a larger built are generally of kapha kind chamomile plant are infused in hot water, a brewing tradition that dates day spent tucking into what is the most impossibly delicious cuisine, is and combine the attributes of earth and water,” says Bhandari, mentally back to ancient Egypt, where it was prescribed as a cure for cold, as well it possible to eat anymore? As I made my way to my lake-fronted suite, categorising me as a blend of kapha and pita person (ƥre and water) person. as to the Romans, who served it to guests. To end the experience is the I prayed that the next day would be, well, lighter; but the itinerary tells My diet, Chef Chandra informs, should exclude too many spices and all-time favourite mint tea. Tiwari infuses some green tea with mint leaves me otherwise. include herbal teas. And, of course, there would be no non-vegetarian food for that lovely dark gold liquid. Day 2 served, because meat slows down the body’s natural healing process. My Unlike the light-as-air teas, my dinner at the aforementioned Sheesh lunch at the all-day dining restaurant, my ƥrst meal according to my dosha, Mahal was an elaborate Rajasthani aƤair. We began with wheatgrass So I am happy that Bhandari ensures I get my spot of exercise. The next was a rather light aƤair: A beautiful amuse-bouche — soothing chilled and lime shots, buttermilk infused with cumin and coriander seeds, morning, at sharp 7.30, I power through a series of demanding postures orange and beetroot juice shots, accompanied by green apple carrot powder, refreshing yuzu compressed melon, delicious pickled kombu, and cottage cheese mousse orange jelly, was followed by a six-dish course, among them the succulent Gatte ki sabzi, made from chickpea Ʀour and infused with turmeric, the sharp spicy Ʀavour of green chillies, the sourness of yoghurt, and a hint of clariƥed butter (ghee), which is considered good cholesterol according to modern interpretation of Ayurveda; Pitod ki sabzi, which, Chef Chandra says, is made with chickpeas used as whole beans, unhusked and split; creamy Paneer (cottage cheese) cooked with methi (fenugreek) since “the bitterness of methi cuts down the fat content of the cottage cheese”; and Yoghurt Ʀecked with chilli powder, salt and dhaniya (coriander) powder in just the right measure. As I wash down the meal with a glass of hot water and cumin seeds, and end it with delicate homemade ice-cream served on a bed of fresh fruits, Chef Chandra tells me about our penchant for adding too many spices to a dish, eƤectively killing the Ʀavours of the vegetables. “Garam masala has 24 spices! It is more prudent to use two, at the most, three spices,” he says. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 70 | SUMMER 2015 From Left: "GDE"G@MCQ@@MC2NTR"GDE1@V@SS@JHMFTRSGQNTFG@L@RSDQBK@RRNM,@QV@QHR@UNTQHDRƥDQXQDC&TMSTQBGHKKHDRHMSGDROHBDL@QJDS SUMMER 2015 | 71 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE spices and ingredients used in the heritage liquors are soaked in spirits within teakwood tanks or copper vessels for seven to eight days, before being brewed in a distillation plant. While the company has stopped producing the popular Royal Kesar Kasturi, there are other wonderful ones to try: the delicate pink coloured and subtly Ʀavoured paan martini, the sweet Ʀavoured Jagmohan Martini spiked with spices, and my favourite, the chocolate and fennel martini that is served with a dash of Hershey syrup. The spices and ingredients used in the heritage liquors are soaked in spirits within teakwood tanks or copper vessels for seven to eight days, before being brewed in a distillation plant The meals are customised according to Ayurveda principles and complement your doshas Dinner is a lesson in what makes for a great restaurant: a sublime location, inventive cooking coupled with impeccable service. Amrut Mahal, an enchanted 120-year-old structure that once served as a resting post for ƥshermen, is now a destination dining venue within the Guava Garden, with windows that frame views of the lake and the lit-up monuments. As a gentle breeze blows in from the lake, I feast on a dinner distinguished by traditional dishes served with a contemporary twist, which has increasingly come to mark progressive Indian cuisine. The amuse-bouche includes sweet lime juice, Podi Idli (with a coating of urad dal, dried chillies, chickpea and sesame seeds), Mint chutney, and the unconventional Chotte tamatar ki chutney (made from really tiny The setting in destination dining venue, Amrut Mahal, is atmospheric and the views are picture perfect tomatoes). The ambrosial appetizers include a Ʀavoursome Bharwan chotte chukandar (stuƤed beetroot baked with carrots, cabbage, beans, pointing to bright green peppers. “They grow a lot of spinach, fenugreek apricot and cashewnuts), Subz raan (which mocks the lamb raan in its leaves, tomatoes and coriander.” in the Guava garden with beautiful views of the lake and the migratory degree C; for the well-seasoned and spicy Mirchi Wada, large green chillies shape and has potato-peas mix stuƤed in saƤron-laced dough) served There are wholesalers and retailers, who buy from the former and birds: bends and stretches; downward dogs and warrior poses; several are slit open and stuƤed with a mix of boiled potatoes and powdered with grape and apricot chutneys, Makai aur adrak ki tikki (kebabs made sell the produce within the same market; there are trucks coming in suryanamaskars in salutation to the rising sun that spreads a warm orange spices, and dipped in a batter made from chickpea Ʀour, carom seeds, with corn and ginger), and Pudine ka tofu (marinated with mint chutney for from neighbouring Gujarat, but also from Madhya Pradesh and Himachal colour across the blue lake, before ending with pranayams or breathing salt, spices and coriander leaves. The chefs serve these with a Ʀavourful almost ƥve hours so that the chutney permeates the tofu). Pradesh. There is fresh turmeric that looks like ginger, unless you know exercises. “Do this every day, and you will lose weight,” he tells me as I roll mint chutney. The main course is drawn largely from the south of India: Cabbage the diƤerence. While the neighbouring grains market is still shut at 10.30 Making masala chai is an art that very few people have mastered: kootu (cooked with grated coconut), Beans poriyal (with a pungent taste am, Chef Chandra takes me to stores with sacks of turmeric and chillies I am back at Sheesh Mahal with Chef Chandra and Sous Chef Gulab the chefs boil the water with ginger, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon of mustard), Aloo pepper fry (shallow fried potatoes and green peppers), from Guntur laid out in all their red glory in sacks outside the doors. Singh Rawat to take a masterclass in masala chai and Marwari savouries, sticks, adding one spice at a time, leaving it for a bit, and taking it out from Vegetable Chettinad (vegetables cooked in Chettinad masala), Cous cous “Unfortunately, the production of Mathania chillies has fallen drastically which is an integral part of Rajasthan’s vibrant street food culture. The boiling water before adding the second one. In this Ʀavoured water, they pulao and Khameri chawal ki roti (a thick, spongy Ʀattened bread made because of falling groundwater levels,” he says. The pungent chilli deƥnes Marwaris are a predominantly vegetarian entrepreneur community from add some tea, sugar and milk for a zesty brew. with yeast, which traces its lineage back to the Mughal era). two of Rajasthan’s iconic dishes: Jodhpuri mirchi wada and lal maas, and is up my mat. “Unlikely,” I think, “if I continue to eat like this”. the sandy plains of Marwar. Laid out on the long steel table of the kitchen Eating anything else for the day seems impossible, so I explore the “You are going to serve a dessert?” I ask incredulously, as the chef is a variety of spices and condiments that are common to these savouries: City Palace, take a spa massage based on my dosha (almost 90 minutes of places a decadent Baked Gulab Jamun on the table. This incredibly large While non-vegetarian food isn’t on the agenda of this ayurveda- a stiƤ reƥned Ʀour dough, oil, vegetable fat, green chillies, basic spices like sheer pampering in which my body is scrubbed and massaged, my skin dish has six to eight tiny gulab jamuns baked in milk that’s spiked with inƦuenced culinary tour, Chef Chandra does reveal some amazing secrets cumin seeds, roasted cumin powder and coriander powder, red chillies, is exfoliated, and then I am wrapped in a refreshing body mask), and a saƤron and almonds. on our market sojourn. One of the tales he recounts is of the famous turmeric and salt. “DiƤerent savouries cook at diƤerent temperatures,” cruise down the lake in the night to gape at the old havelis (mansions) that says Chef Chandra, preparing to put some samosas into boiling oil. “So, are either locked because their owners having migrated to other cities, or Day 3 overnight in a mix of chillies, coriander and turmeric, and then cooked in a if the oil gets too hot, get it oƤ the stove and let the latent heat cook the have been turned into small hotels. next batch you put in.” cultivated in the ancient village of Mathania. desert cuisine loved by the ƥery Rajputs. Game meat is often marinated Thankfully, my last day at the hotel is given to a trip to the local vegetable clay pot placed on coals in a hole dug up in desert sand. The pot is covered I begin my evening at the plush Library Bar where Kinshuk Parnami, and spice markets with Chef Chandra. We travel in the hotel’s tuktuk to with a layer of coals and then the pit is covered with sand; the meat is left The crunchy samosas, which cook at 140 degree C, are stuƤed with Assistant Manager (F&B), introduces me to Rajasthan’s heritage liquors. the old sabzi mandi (vegetable market) a little distance from the main to cook in its own juices for almost three to four hours. Everything, from sautéed potato and peas mix, cashewnuts and spices; for the crisp Dal Made by Royal Heritage Liquors at a Ganganagar-based factory, their city centre, where the Chef explains how diƤerent kinds of vegetables pickled wild boar meat to rabbit and vension is on menu. (lentils) kachoris, the moong dal is soaked for a few minutes to soften it, recipes are drawn from the secret culinary ƥles of royal families. are transported to a state that grows very few of its own. “The produce blended and cooked with powdered spices, and deep fried again at 140 Considered to be too strong to drink neat, they are served in a martini. The here is grown without any pesticides and is of an intense colour,” he says, THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 72 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 However, the legends associated with Rajasthan’s scrumptious nonvegetarian oƤerings require another article, in another issue. | 73 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE SNAPSHOT The divine spirit I n this mural artwork, ‘Let a Thousand Lotuses Bloom’, by Satish Gupta, at The Leela Palace New Delhi, the lotus, which symbolises divinity in India, is shown as a bud on the periphery of the square, which is represents a Mandala (sacred shape). It grows bigger and bursts into HSRETKKXFKNQX@SSGDBDMSQD3GHRHRLD@MSSNQDƦDBSGNVD@BGKHUHMFSGHMFG@RHSRNVMTMHPTD destiny and beauty, and important in the grand scheme of things. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 74 | SUMMER 2015 CHEF’S CORNER OENOPHILIA Diego Martinelli The Chef de Cuisine at Le Cirque at The Leela Palace New Delhi on the must-trys at the restaurant, and why he likes Indian cuisine. The drink for every occasion :KDWDUHWKUHHLQJUHGLHQWV :HOHDUQWKDW\RXNQRZ \RXFDQśWGRZLWKRXW" DSDUWIURP,WDOLDQDQG Salt — nothing is worse than (QJOLVK-DSDQHVHDQG unsalted bland food. Herbs, as 6SDQLVKDVZHOO7HOO they have a power to lift, to give XVDERXW\RXUORYHIRU :KHQ\RXDUHLQWURGXFLQJVRPHRQHWRWKHMR\RIZLQH a diƤerent depth and extend the ODQJXDJHV GULQNLQJIRUWKHYHU\ƩUVWWLPH Ʀavours. Balsamic vinegar, for it’s a It is nice to be able to As a ƥrst introduction to wine, I would always choose Champagne product from my hometown and a interact with people in their own — its wonderful eƤervescent character can easily charm even part of my culture. It is complex yet language and to be able a non-drinker. Riesling, too, is a beautiful grape varietal for versatile — a great combination of to speak Ʀuently with the novice and the seasoned palate. It can be slightly oƤ everyone’s palate. It is a versatile wine perfect for the sweet and the salty. people from diƤerent parts dry and is very expressive, with perfumed notes. This a melange of food pairings, varying from bruschetta of the world. wine is easy to pair with fragrant Thai curries. to pasta. 3URƩOH :KHQ \RX DUH ZRRLQJ VRPHRQH DQG ZDQW WR :KHQ\RXZDQWWRUHDOO\VSOXUJH H[SUHVVDGHHSHPRWLRQ Pomerol, being home to Chateau Le Pin and Chateau Be it special family gatherings or celebrating your big achievement at work or intimate moments — for each of these, there is such a thing as the right wine. :KHQ LWśV D VSHFLDO IDPLO\ PHDO FHOHEUDWLQJ D ELJ RFFDVLRQ Wines that have approachability and ƥnesse marked as a character. The winemaker Castellare di Castellina makes a beautiful Chianti Classico that appeals to :KDWśVWKHPRVWXQXVXDO UHTXHVW\RXKDYHHYHUJRW :KDWśV\RXUIDYRXULWHNLQGRI :KDWLVWKHPRVWSRSXODU IURPDFOLHQW" FXLVLQH":KDWGR\RXOLNHWR GLVKDW/H&LUTXH" I can list a thousand, but in this HDW" Pork Belly and the home- business, nothing is unusual. Any I usually like to try the local cuisine, made pasta selections are request is a fair one as long as locally sourced and produced. Apart the must-trys at Le Cirque. it’s doable, legal, and ethical, no from this, I enjoy street food, which matter how odd it may sound. I ƥnd very heartwarming. 7HOOXV\RXUYLHZRQ ,QGLDQIRRGYDULRXV ,I\RXZHUHQRWDFKHIZKDW :KDWDUHWKHPXVWWU\VDW7KH FXLVLQHV ZRXOG\RXEH" /HHOD3DODFH1HZ'HOKL" I love the spiciness, the I would probably be a farmer, Shira Ae (salad with tofu dressing) fragrant Ʀavours and a gardener or anything which from MEGU, and Dal Jamavar at textures of Indian food. keeps me in the outdoors and Jamavar are my favourites It’s, in fact, one of my close to nature. at the property. favourite cuisines. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 76 | SUMMER 2015 An expert in Italian cuisine, Chef Diego Martinelli has more than 16 years of experience, and has been associated with many globally renowned luxury hotel groups in his career. An alumnus of I.A.L. Institute of Culinary Arts, in Modena, Italy, he has worked in Europe and the Middle East, aside from Asia. In his free time, you are likely to ƥnd him reading books or playing with his three pet dogs. Ş For me, it would have to be the red varietal of $LVKZDU\D1DLU Burgundy. The Burgundian Pinot is possibly the most Food & wine merchandising, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts fragile and temperamental grape to grow. It is a true expression of a wine maker’s capability, and, therefore, Petrus, is the most obvious choice, if you had the money to seriously invest in a collector’s wine. But, I believe, a good Burgundy — like Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France and Domaine Georges & Christophe I think, perfect for an intimate occasion. Henri Jayer Cros Parantoux, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, France 79 or 82 are all great Roumier Musigny Grand Cru, or Cote de Nuits, France — too, is a good examples of a well-crafted pinot. Perfectly pairs with roasts. contender when it comes to collecting. :KHQ\RXśYHDFKLHYHGDWDUJHWDWZRUN :KHQ\RXZDQWWRPDNHDKXJHLPSUHVVLRQ The robust Spanish wines like Vega Sicilia or Pingus show a supreme Bordeaux wines usually emphasises prestige while making a business character. They are wines one collects to be able to celebrate one’s wins deal. Paulliac with Chateau Margaux and Latour certainly make a profound in life with. Best paired with tapas, pallela or even Asian fusion. impression. Pairing with venison or duck conƥt would be best. SUMMER 2015 | 77 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE SPA Retreat into your After a brief introductory chat with the spa manager Anuj Singh, I am led by Lakshmi to the changing room. The ƥrst stop is the Private World vitality pool: as you sit or lounge in it, the A sensory journey involving scents, an opulent Private Spa corridor to the therapy room. Suite, spaces to retreat to, vitality pools — the experience at the ESPA Spa at The Leela Palace Chennai involves more than just a massage, though even that comes highly recommended. water jets smoothen the rough edges so that the products settle in better and soften your skin. After which I walk across the winding What’s distinctly diƤerent about the spa is that they allow you to choose the products for the massage — each product is a blend of botanical extracts and marine actives. On my ƥrst day I am oƤered the By Deepali Nandwani Royal Leela Facial. Abam, the soft-spoken masseur from Manipur, takes me through s I walk past the art andartefact-laden A The Leela Palace Chennai reminds me the sensory experience and I pick one of corridors of The Leela Palace Chennai of a luxuriant palace with regal interiors and the creams based on its mild aromatic scent. and turn the corner to the ESPA spa, accents of Chettinad architecture, particularly She cleanses my face, exfoliates and scrubs I am not sure what to expect. Would it be visible in its sweeping columns and its carefully it, and then uses warm poultices stuƤed a sanctuary within a hotel that is built like selected art works, many of the touches added with herbs for a regenerating marma point a lavish mansion? It most probably would. by Madhu Nair, Director, Design and Operations, massage, which is said to harmonise the But I hadn’t bargained for the sheer space — The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts. But the naadis. It is sort of face yoga and is fabled ESPA’s newest outpost stretches over 16,000 essence of the hotel can be found at the ESPA for curing headaches, pain and neurological sq ft of beautifully scented space. I push the spa, a meditative space framed by azure blue disorders. I had been awake half the night, heavy door and walk into the area where they of the Bay of Bengal and the intense green of caught a Ʀight early morning and under welcome guests, oƤer them a refreshing ginger the lush lawns. Abam’s soft touch, I promptly fall asleep to and lime drink and get them to ƥll in the details The ESPA spa at The Leela Palace Chennai the tunes of music wafting from the system. that the masseur may need to customise the is among the ƥrst in the country with innovative By the time I wake up, my face is caked with massage to the right degree. Thermal Suites that centre on water therapies a cooling mask and she is massaging my The hushed tones of the spa manager, with pedigree, inspired as they are by Senus head. Ninety minutes later, my face feels the masseurs, the pretty girls Lakshmi and Per Aquam or the concept of healing through plump, soft and refreshed. Ashwini who help you change before the water, an ancient practice that traces its root I head back to my suite, an art-infused tranquilising massages — everything is geared to 27BC Belgium. They enclose within their space with a bedroom, living room, a to calm your pushy nerves. The meandering warm embrace vitality pools with lounge beds comfortable lounge, a walk-in-wardrobe, a sanctuary is characterised by tasteful interiors and body jets, shimmering glass mosaic steam much-needed bathtub for a leisurely soak complemented by hand-picked collectible rooms and state-of-the-art circular oak-wood and a fabulous view: from the windows I art pieces from artists such as Siddharth saunas. trace the Adyar shoreline across its empty Dhanvant Shanghvi, Alex Davis and Chameli Ultimate in luxury is the Private Spa Suite stretches to the jumble of buildings and low- Ramachandran. Lotus motifs and gleaming where you can spend an entire day, or even rise structures, and from the water below my linen drapes complement the lavish look of two: relax in the living area before or after the window where Ʀamingoes Ʀock, right up to Turkish marble, natural Travertine stone, crystal therapies, spend time on its personal terrace the deep sea. A quick shower and I am ready glass, upholstered walls and dark walnut timber. overlooking lush gardens with a book, and for dinner at Jamavar, the Indian restaurant discover the various retreats within the spa with royal accents, brocade furnishings and — sleep pods, daybeds behind gossamer thin a menu that combines oƤerings from the curtains and tea lounges. southern and Nawabi cuisines. Top to bottom: At the tea lounge; ESPA has a range of natural skincare and luxury spa products; a warm soak before the massage; couples’ therapy room THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 78 | SUMMER 2015 The spa allows you to choose the products for the massage — each product is a blend of botanical extracts and marine actives SUMMER 2015 | 79 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE The Cuisine For the leisurely lunch after the Deep Tissue Massage I choose from the special spa cuisine menu fashioned by Chef Dharmen Makwana. First introduced at The Leela Kovalam in 2013, within a year the elaborate menu with a range of soups and salads, main course, refreshing elixirs and smoothies, carbohydrate-free pastas and guilt-free desserts wonthe Best Spa Cuisine Award in India at the Asia Spa Awards. Chef Makwana begins the meal with shots of his famous smoothies — Rose petal and Almond Yoghurt, Gooseberry and Walnut, Vanilla pod and Cinnamon, Spinach blended with Wheat Grass, and my favourite, the Musk Melon and Passion Fruit smoothie with single-origin The Thermal Suite chocolate chips. Over a My dinner companion and I chat over a This 120-minute massage is a combination humungous glass of thandai and feast on a slew of gentle leg exercise and massage: I am not about Chennai, of vegetarian delicacies — Thair Vadai or lentil the one doing the hard work though. Abam India (Chef doughnuts laced with yoghurt and tempered massages the oil into my skin which feels as Makwana with mustard and red chillies, Aviyal or selected dry as parched paper, gently stretching my has lived vegetables simmered in a paste of coconut, hands and legs and then straightening them and worked green chillies and yoghurt, and Dal Jamavar, the to smoothen out the tense knots. Before she abroad) and his spa menu, we sample restaurant’s signature black lentils dish which began the massage, Abam had asked me the beautifully salted fresh pods of is simmered overnight on tandoor and lashed what I hoped to achieve. Relieving stress was Edamame or soyabean served with sea with generous helpings of cream and butter. one thing, but I also needed something that salt-ichimi (I perfer eating it whole, with No Indian meal can ever be complete without alleviated my aching joints. At the end of the the outer cover), the fresh Arugula Salad desserts. If Khoobani ka Meetha, the stewed massage I feel as if I had been introduced to with a mélange of textures and Ʀavours Hyderabadi apricot and dry fruit is deliciously muscles I didn’t know exist. — orange, walnuts, pumpkin seeds and dense and sweet, Eleneer Payasam with tender I am checking out that day and after a conversation Maple organic cloves infused with honey leisurely lunch, I make a quick dash for the dressing, Chilled Papaya Ginger ale airport, worried about missing my Ʀight. Soup and gluten-free Penne Pasta. We A restful night later, having woken up to However, there is no panic. There is Leela’s top the meal with Tofu Vegetable Satay the aforementioned view, I rush through a airport representative to take me through that has pieces of tofu rolled in spiced Mediterranean breakfast at Spectra and head diƧcult check-ins and the ESPA experience has peanut, tamarind and jaggery sauce and to my next massage appointment — a Deep settled my nerves, wiped out the fatigue and then skewered, and ƥnish with a delicate Muscle Massage. Abam takes me on another made me believe that everything is ƥne with Tender Coconut and Soy Milk Panna sensory journey with essential oils and I choose the world. At least momentarily, though reality Cotta and Baked Skimmed Milk Yoghurt one for the massage. has a way of creeping in at some point. withRaspberries. coconut morsels in cardamom-Ʀavoured reduced milk is light as air. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 80 | SUMMER 2015 EVENTS EVENTS Men for T gender equality he NGO CEQUIN (Centre for Inequality and Inclusion) had its ƥrst WOWMEN awards this year, at The Leela Palace New Delhi. The charity, which is co-founded by Sara Pilot, wife of Congress MP Sachin Pilot, honoured seven men who have supported female achievers in their life and thus furthered the cause of gender equality — among them, K Onler Kom (father of the boxer Mary Kom) and Ziauddin Yousufzai (father of Nobel Peace prize winner Malala Yousufzai). Left: Rajiv Kaul, President, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resoorts, and Prithvi Raj Singh Oberoi, Chairman @MC"GHDE$WDBTSHUD.ƧBDQNE$('+SC ANUDSNO Raj Singh Gehlot, Chairman and Managing Director, LAHDMBD&QNTOKHFGSHMF@K@LO@SSGDQDBDMS'(%( event at The Leela Ambience Gurgaon The future of T tourism in India he Leela Ambience Gurgaon GUEST SPEAK hosted, for the second consecutive year, Hotel Investment Forum India (HIFI), the country’s most important hotel investment conference. The HIFI 2015, held in February, was, as per a report in Financial Express, attended by over Sachin Tendulkar Kumar Mangalam Birla Amjad Ali Khan Winston Lackin Minister of Foreign AƤairs for Surinam Ronnie Screwvala Chairman, Aditya Birla Group Indian classical musician The Leela Kovalam The Leela Palace Bangalore The Leela Palace Chennai The Leela Palace New Delhi The Leela Palace Udaipur “Thank you so much for your extraordinary help and service. I will be back!” “Love the hospitality of The Leela always.” “Felt at home. Beautiful hotel and hospitality. Best wishes and looking forward to come back again.” “Thank you for the excellent service. My family had a lot of pleasure staying here.” “Thank you for the fabulous hospitality in your wonderful hotel. We especially enjoyed your superb food and the excellent service.” Indian cricketing legend 350 delegates from the global hospitality and Entrepreneur and Philanthropist tourism sector, focussing on the upcoming trends and challenges related to the Indian hospitality sector. One of the topics touched upon was boosting tourism to India, and Lalit K Panwar, secretary, Ministry of Tourism (MoT), said, “About 32,000 visas have been granted in just six weeks and with the new countries that we are planning to add to Tourist Visa on Arrival (TVoA) list, we should be able to host at least one percent of the total global tourism traƧc.” 3'$+$$+ , & 9(-$ | 82 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 83 | 3'$+$$+ , & 9(-$ ACCOLADES INSIDER’S GUIDE The Paradise restaurant till today remains my favourite place for biryani. I am a vegetarian and keep going back there for the vegetable biryani. And my friends who eat meat swear by its non-vegetarian biryani. They consider it the benchmark of pure and delicious Hyderabadi biryani. Hyderabad, much like Bangalore, has become very cosmopolitan in its tastes, so there are many excellent multi- Pursuit H of excellence otelier India is one of the industry’s most respected magazines, cuisine restaurants that have come and its annual awards are among the most prestigious. At the 2014 up in the city. One of my favourites The Charminar, built in 1591, is a monument located in Hyderabad were recognised for their work. The Leela Group had a great showing, bagging some of the most enviable of the accolades. Mr. Shridhar Nair of The Leela Goa was the winner in the ‘General Manager of the year’ category; Nair bested 200 other nominated GMs from luxury hotels and Above (from left):8NFDRG*TL@QNE3GD+DDK@/@K@BD-DV#DKGH V@R@QTMMDQTOHMSGDR@KDRQDUDMTDKTWTQXB@SDFNQX@S SGD'NSDKHDQ(MCH@ V@QCR2GQHCG@Q-@HQNE3GD+DDK@&N@ V@RSGDVHMMDQNESGD&,NESGDXD@QKTWTQX@V@QC1@IHU*@TK /QDRHCDMS3GD+DDK@/@K@BDR'NSDKR1DRNQSR1@LNM2@KSN Alvarez from The Leela Ambience Gurgaon was the chef of the XD@Q@MC,@GDRG5@RTNE3GD+DDK@/@K@BD!@MF@KNQDV@RSGD green hotelier of the year resorts from across India. Mahesh V of The Leela Palace Bangalore was the ‘green hotelier of the year’. Yogesh Kumar of The Leela Palace New What to do in CORBIS Hotelier India Awards, talented professionals spanning 16 disciplines Hyderabad Delhi was a runner-up in the ‘sales/revenue person of the year’ category. Soft-spoken and exuding characteristic Hyderabadi warmth, Indian cricketing great Finally, Chef Ramon Salto Alvarez of The Leela Ambience Gurgaon was VVS Laxman shares his insights into the culture and food of the city he grew up in. the ‘chef of the year’. is Olives, in Jubilee Hills, which serves very good Italian food. Another restaurant in Jubilee Hills I frequent is N Grill. Ohri’s restaurants is a chain of restaurants that have a lot of variety in their theme. The one in Banjara Hills has ƥve Ʀoors, with each Ʀoor serving a diƤerent cuisine A feast of awards located — Indian, Chinese, Which are the places you would recommend Mughlai, a coƤee shop, etc. Tansen and 70MM — one should visit to get a real feel of the both partly owned by Ohri’s — are two other places culture and essence of the city? that I enjoy visiting. The Falaknuma Palace is a wonderful showcase of the lifestyle of the Nawabs and a ƥtting tribute to the What can one shop for and what are the must- glory of that time. Another must-visit is the Golconda visit shopping places? he Times Food Guide 2015 has given The Leela Ambience Fort. It is absolutely unbelievable, looking at the I get to know about most of the shopping places Gurgaon much to cheer about. The restaurant Zanotta design of the Fort, that such advanced engineering from my wife! Hyderabad is famous for its pearls, emerged the best in Italian ƥne dine category, Diya the best technology could exist even in that day and age. North Indian ƥne dine, with Rubicon being declared the best bar Another place to visit is the Old City, where the for a luxurious night out. On the other hand, The Leela Palace Charminar, the trademark of Hyderabad, is located. New Delhi’s Le Cirque was declared the best French restaurant in It is busy, full of shops and markets, full of life and the capital at the Times Food Awards 2015. colour; and also has the famous Chowmahalla Palace, T which was a palace of the Nizams. Another place that The Leela Palace New Delhi ƥgures in the best hotels I would suggest is Tank Bund — the road across the category in DestinAsian Readers’ Choice Awards this year. The Hussain Sagar lake that connects Hyderabad and property was also one of the top luxury hotels in India, as per Secunderabad. the 2015 Trip Advisor Travellers’ Choice Awards — the third consecutive year that it is one of the top hotels in this poll. 3GDKNAAX@S3GD+DDK@/@K@BD-DV#DKGH Hyderabad is famous for its biryani, but that is perhaps just one of the culinary delights of the city. What are the must-eat places? Considered one of India’s most stylish batsmen of all time, VVS Laxman is most famous for his knock of 281 against a seemingly invincible Australian Test team at Kolkata’s Eden Gardens in 2001. Before retiring, he played 134 Tests, notching an impressive 8781 runs, and 86 ODIs, scoring a total of 2338 runs. In 2011, he was awarded the Padma Shri, India’s fourth highest civilian award. and some of the best-known jewellery stores to buy pearls are Mangatrai Pearls in Banjara Hills and Kirtilals in Somajiguda. Hyderabad also has a lot of malls where one can practically buy anything. The ones we frequent are Hyderabad Central, GVK One Mall in Banjara Hills and the Inorbit Mall in Hitech city. Neeru’s is a lovely place to buy saris and other ethnic wear for women — they have quite a few stores in Hyderabad. You also have the famous Choodi Bazaar in the Old City, where you get the famous lac bangles (made of glass and lacquer and studded with stones) and also check out the shops selling saris, embroidered fabrics, etc. — Interviewed by Akhila Ranganna 3'$+$$+ , & 9(-$ | 84 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 85 | 3'$+$$+ , & 9(-$ PERSPECTIVE SOCIAL INDEX Learning by practise Incredible India What happens to developmentally challenged adolescents once they graduate from special schools? Kshitij is a Mumbai-based charity that, Russian-born Bollywood actress among other things, provides them gainful employment. 6DELKD*KLDVL Elena Kazan talks about her fascination gets the details from Beena Modak, one of the NGO’s co-founders for Hindi, Bengali food and more I ’ve always had a love for languages. An innate urge to speak Ʀuently and discover new ways to communicate. I ƥrst started watching Hindi ƥlms when I was in college, movies such as Mughal-e-Azam, Pakeezah and Pyaasa. I developed a fascination for Hindi and started learning the language. In my opinion, Hindi is a very easy language to learn, because it is very inclusive, it shares common roots with Arabic and Persian, languages I already knew. K In 2007, when I was studying Middle-Eastern Politics and History in 6@RGHMFSNM(V@RNƤDQDC@INAAXSGD &DQL@M"G@LADQNE"NLLDQBDHM*NKJ@S@ I n 1998, four mothers came together to set Each of them is assessed on admission and &UHDWLQJDEHWWHUWRPRUURZ up Kshitij. The sole aim of this NGO was to then encouraged to take up activities that are Kshitij’s relevant to their skills. handcrafted items and products that make for provide recently schooled special adolescents members specialise in creating as well as adults a sheltered workplace to Two programmes are specially designed excellent corporate and personal gifts: greeting learn skills and crafts that could add value to to meet the holistic needs of the members: cards, tablemats, napkins, photo frames, bags, their lives. The founders’ motive was clear: it education and vocational training. Education aprons, envelopes, pencil holders, ƥles and everything is so relaxed and would be a place that would keep its members training includes the honing of practical skills folders as well as customised gifts for special informal; and that’s what I like fruitfully occupied, especially since they are such as simple mathematical calculations, occasions. about the country. I know I can call not capable of open employment and further colour concepts, basic money-concepts, etc. The adults also practise activities such people if I have a crisis, and they academic education. Most of all, Kshitij Vocational training includes regular painting, as yoga, dance, etc. These exercises not only will with me in a moment’s notice. would give them the conƥdence to become stencil painting, block painting, and the works. help them learn a new skill physically but also Indians are warm and caring. I thought it was Indian back then, since I was too young to know better. In 2007, I was oƤered a job by the German Chamber of Commerce in Kolkata when I was studying Middle-Eastern Politics and History in Washington. Kolkata has a colonial charm and is the cultural capital of India. They make the best food in India — kocchu poishak maachher mata diye, daab chingri, shukto, chorchori and nolen gurer sandesh. I was oƤered a job as an extra on the sets of director Subadhro Choudhury’s movie Clerk. While that didn’t pan out, I got oƤered roles in several Bengali movies. Acting was something I never planned; as I gained experience, I decided to move to Mumbai. I have played lead roles in Prague, John Day and a key role in Agent Vinod. Apart from Hindi, I speak Bengali, some Tamil, Gujarati and Bangla. I also take kalaripayattu lessons; and used to the do the bhangra at DJ Rekha’s Basement Bhangra in NYC. I live in Juhu Koliwada, where I discovered my passion for lavani. I’m in Berlin right now as we speak, and just hanging out with friends means that I have to make plans days in advance. By contrast, in India, FARROKH CHOTHIA I was born in Moscow but am Eurasian. My ƥrst childhood memory of India was my family drinking Ceylon tea, which had an elephant as its logo. Elena Kazan is an Indian actress of Eurasian descent. She has played roles in many Bollywood movies, such as Agent Vinod, where she was featured alongside Saif Ali Khan, John Day and Prague. She is one of the few Caucasian actresses who has been able to carve a niche for herself in the industry. In her leisure time, Kazan enjoys watching old Hindi ƥlms. responsible adults with a sense of worth and Reshma Gurve, before enrolling at the NGO, make their minds sharper. Group interactions I dislike the corruption and purpose as members of society. Today, Kshitij had a history of schizophrenia. She battled with are also encouraged so as to improve their the social hierarchy that exists communication and social skills. has a close-knit support network of families, extreme mood swings, violent and aggressive here. However, the vibrancy of staƤ members, therapists and volunteers behaviour. She couldn’t keep up with regular this country and the stories that impacting 21 members. academics and preferred to spend her days +RZ\RXFDQVXSSRUW.VKLWLM its diverse populations have to tell in solitude. After she was enrolled at Kshitij, You can donate to the NGO to help them 1HHGVSHFLƩFWUDLQLQJ they patiently got her involved in the various meet their varied expenses such as salaries have Adults at Kshitij have varied kinds of disabilities workshops. She went from sitting merely for participants and professional staƤ, raw travelled to almost every part caused by conditions such as Down’s syndrome, for thirty minutes to following the complete material, transportation of products as well as of India on work. I hope to go autism, brain damage, dyslexia, etc. They are workshop hours, like the other members. extracurricular activities and ƥeld trips. You to Mizoram and Ladakh. India is all above 18 years of age with the youngest Today, she aids in the making of gifting articles, can also donate paints, paper, cloth, etc. incredible in the sense that there member at 21 and the oldest at 42. Kshitij does memorabilia, stationary, etc. is so much geographical and not have age-group speciƥc classes. Work is cultural diversity in one country. assigned according to the ability of the adult. make up for all its Ʀaws. I feel blessed to All members of Kshitij receive a stipend at the end of each week. — As told to Nolan Lewis THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 86 | SUMMER 2015 SUMMER 2015 | 87 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE For more details, visit www.kshitij-mumbai. org or email them at info@kshitij-mumbai.org stefanoricci.com
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