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Free Out and about Gastronomy Entertainment Discovery Museums Practical ideas Market… Alpilles Les Baux de Provence, Parcours Renaissance Luberon Joucas, Mieke Heybroek, Ulysse Plaud, life at their fingertips Pays Salonais © Jean-François Lepage Salon de Provence The historic centre, at the heart of history and of life Pays d’Aix Aix-en-Provence The majestic Rotonde fountain N° 1 - 2012 - Provence - 40 000 copies - Free Provence | Gastronomy | Provençal markets, a festival of colors and flavors hat would Provençal cuisine be without the local producers who work the land every day? Here and there in the towns and villages, the tradition of morning markets goes on. W Freshly picked fruit and vegetables show off their colors and flavors… Worth seeing.The Alpilles, the Aix region, the Luberon and the Salon region all have weekly markets in common. It could be the one on Wednesday morning in the avenues of Salon. There is a market in Saint-Rémy, again on Wednesdays. Then there is the major market in Aix-en-Provence that takes place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays in the Place Verdun and the Place Prêcheur. There is a Sunday market in l’Isle sur la Sorgue and another in Pélissanne. The Saturday market in Apt is another not-to-be-missed gathering. And the least known, but nonetheless gourmet market, takes place in Petit Palais in the Luberon every Saturday morning. Every village and town in the Luberon has its market… The main markets that are not to be missed Monday morning: Luberon: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris, Velleron Alpilles: Fontvieille, Saint-Etienne du Grès Aix region: Les Milles, Luynes Tuesday morning: Luberon: Cucuron, Gordes, Lacoste Alpilles: Cabannes, Rognonas, Tarascon Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles Salon region: Alleins, Eyguières Wednesday morning: Luberon: Le Thor, Gargas Alpilles: Mollégès, Mouriès, Orgon, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Meyrargues Salon region: Mallemort, Salon de Provence Thursday morning: Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Ménerbes, Robion, Roussillon Alpilles: Aureille, Maillane, Maussane les Alpilles, Noves Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, La Roque d’Anthéron Salon region: Sénas Friday morning: Luberon: Bonnieux, Cavaillon, Lourmarin, Lagnes Alpilles: Barbentane, Eygalières, Eyragues, Fontvieille, Graveson, Saint-Andiol Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles, Lambesc Salon region: Eyguières, Mallemort, Salon de Provence Fruit and vegetables in season. All year round, produce is brought in; from season to season, producers on the markets offer fresh produce that is as attractive as it is tasty. Melons, apricots, peaches, nectarines… salads, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, sweet peppers, onions, garlic, shallots… all release their essence here. Also worth noting are the butchers who sell perfectly roasted chickens, traditional charcuterie, etc. all in good humor. Then again, there are the fishmongers who sell (loudly) fish from the Mediterranean. Not to be missed are the olive and spice merchants. Colors, aromas, atmosphere … on the markets in Provence, all of your senses are heightened! Crafts, gastronomy, and experience, town and village squares bring together all of the elements of Provençal heritage that lives on from the Alpilles to the Luberon and from the Salon region to the Aix region! Saturday morning: Luberon: Apt, Cheval Blanc, Le Thor, Ménerbes, Oppède, Petit Palais Alpilles: Cabannes, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Venelles Salon region: Salon de Provence, Charleval, Miramas Sunday morning: Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Coustellet Alpilles: Châteaurenard Aix region: Jouque, Aix-en-Provence, Vitrolles, Meyrargues Salon region: Pélissanne, Salon de Provence SUMMER IN PROVENCE Directeur de la publication, gérant : Nicolas Coissard Rédacteurs : Anne-Sophie Sourd, Eric Morichaud, Myriam Léon Traduction : irene Chalmers Preire Crédits photos : X Impression : Rotimpres Rédaction-Publicité : 06 09 98 67 49 - 06 63 75 06 96 Publicité et communication : Béatrice Bettinelli, Le Journal des Alpilles : www.journaldesalpilles.fr Nadine Lefebvre Marseille, Le Journal du Luberon : www.journalduluberon.fr Isabelle Righi, Le journal du Pays Salonais : www.journaldupayssalonais.fr Lionel Matteoda, Le Journal des Aixois : www.journaldesaixois.fr 44, rue Lafayette - 13 300 Salon de Provence sont édités par la SARL de presse Aurélia Editions, au capital de 1500 euros. RCS B 419 512 918 Editorial By Nicolas Coissard “Sunflowers”, the symbol of a convivial Provence Welcome to Provence. With this edition of “Summer in Provence”, our team of journalists wanted to present our English-speaking visitors with the most complete selection of information concerning this, our region, one of the most beautiful in France, one of the most beautiful in the world. It was here, between Arles and Aix en Provence, that the great masters, Vincent van Gogh and Paul Cézanne immortalized Provence in their work. Just as Van Gogh’s locally-painted “Sunflowers” became famous throughout the world at the same time the landscapes of Provence, along with its perfumes, its environment, and its impressions were also discovered all over the planet. For here in Provence, the landscapes, the architecture, the heritage, the museums are all evidence of history that has shone through the centuries. But Provence also has a way of life. The food, the festivities, the festivals, the traditions, the terraces, the vines and wines, the unique olive oil … make this place a small paradise that we would like you to explore, to enter, to appreciate so that, when you leave, you take with you a pocketful of memories. NC 2 Alpilles | Museums and Provençal Heritage and Traditions | 1 Montmajour abbey In the heart of the Arles region, discover the Montmajour abbey, founded in 948 by benedecitine monks. Open every day from 10 am to 6.30 pm Road to Fontvieille - 13200 Arles Tel.: 04 90 54 64 17 - 06 87 81 87 19 2 Fontvieille windmills See the old windmills in Fontvieille; Daudet’s (a famous writer) mill, Moulin Tissot-Avon, Moulin Ramet, Moulin Sourdon. [5] Information from the Office de Tourisme in Fontvieille: 04 90 54 67 49 3 The Baux de Provence rock Visit the small streets in the village of Les Baux de Provence, perched on the top of its rock. The streets are less crowded after 7 pm. [6] [10] [12] Information from the Office de Tourisme: 04 90 54 34 39 [11] 4 Yves Brayer museum [3] Opened in 1991, the Yves Brayer museum houses a hundred or so oil paintings, water paintings and sketches that give a general overview of the artist’s work. [4] [7] [2] Hôtel des Porcelets - 13520 Les Baux de Provence Tel.: 04 90 54 36 99 [1] 5 Musée Auguste Chabaud The Musée de Région Auguste Chabaud has a permanent collection of works by this eminent artist. [8] [9] Cours National 13690 Graveson Tel.: 04 90 90 53 02 Open every day from 10 am to noon and from 1.30 pm to 6.30 pm. 6 Archeological site of Glanum 9 Arenas in Arles The archeological site of Glanum is a remarkable example of urban planning, religious and civic monuments. Before your eyes is a Gallic oppidum built around a sacred spring; a town with Greek then Latin influences. The amphitheater in Arles is the largest monument in the former Roman colony. Architecturally, it was entirely designed for use as a place of major entertainment events and could seat a very large number of spectators. Route des Baux de Provence 13200 Saint-Rémy Tel.: 04 90 92 23 79 Open every day from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm. Rond- Point des arènes 13200 Arles Call 04 90 49 36 36 for information on when to visit the arenas. 7 Carrières de Lumières The monumental Carrières de Lumières present multimedia shows that are unique in the world. A show on the theme of Gauguin and Van Gogh, Painters with Color will run until January 2013. 10 Eglise Sainte-Marthe The Eglise Sainte-Marthe was built in the 11th and 12th centuries in honor of Marthe de Béthanie, who came from Palestine and who tamed the Tarasque, an amphibious monster that terrified the town of Tarascon. 13150 Tarascon 13520 Les Baux de Provence Tel.: 04 90 54 55 56 11 Chapelle Saint-Sixte 8 Musée Arles Antiques This 12th century chapel stands alone on a rocky knoll near the eastern exit from the village of Eygalières. This museum was opened in 1995 to bring all of the archeological collections in Arles together under one roof. 13810 Eygalières Avenue 1ere division France Libre, Presqu'île du Cirque Romain 13200 Arles Tel.: 04 13 31 51 03 Open every day from 10 am to 6 pm. Closed on Tuesdays. 12 Chapelle Notre Dame de Beauregard The chapelle Notre-Dame de Beauregard is also home to the Orgon village museum showing period costumes, old agricultural tools, and photos of the village as it was many years ago as well as documents recounting life in the village. 13660 Orgon 3 Provence | Discovery | Terrace attitude Everywhere in Provence, when the sunshine brightens up both the earth and our spirits, and the weather begins to get warmer, cafés and restaurants start putting chairs and tables outdoors. From early morning coffee until moonlit nighttime, the terraces of cafés brasseries, and restaurants offer moments of enjoyment… e all have an eternal memory of a moonlit evening, a romantic dinner, friends around a table, a family reunion … or, quite simply of having stopped just for the pleasure of it, sat down and made the most of the fine weather. The terrace is an important place particularly in Provence; the symbol of a way of life, if you will. So, bar-keepers and restaurateurs take particular care to offer their customers a friendly, comfortable and pleasant place to frequent. W There are terraces with breath-taking views, others are cozy and more private, and yet others are hidden away in exceptional places… Terraces in the shade of a mulberry or plane tree, terraces that have roofs or not, contemporary styled terraces, terraces nestling in foliage, terraces in gardens, lively terraces in a square – they all have their own, charm their own attraction, and their own regulars. When you are spending some pleasant time talking, sharing, sipping, tasting … culinary delights can only heighten the experience. Enjoy the crisp, fresh cuisine, fruit and vegetables from the market, Mediterranean inspiration, Provençal tradition and the ideas of chefs presented in the spirit of summer. Every drink, every dish, every participant in the joy of lunch can be served on the terraces of pure enjoyment. “Domaine de Capelongue” in Bonnieux ■ communiqué Saint Rémy | Chiropractic Center | New manipulative therapy in Saint-Rémy aking good care of your back is as important as taking good care of your teeth. Amélie Haran and Jean-Baptiste Daumont are chiropractors and their aim is to restore good health and help you keep it. They opened the Centre Chiropratique des Alpilles in June 2011after obtaining their diplomas at the end of their 6-year studies. Chiropractors have been recognized in France since 2002; their studies comprise 6000 hours of lectures covering T anatomy, physiology, pathology, biology, etc. They play a preventative role in articulation, muscular and arthritic pain and their care is now refunded by more and more health insurance companies. The chiropractor works to free the body from stress-induced tension to help regain flexibility and elasticity. After asking you to fill in a questionnaire about your medical history and practicing a neurological and orthopedic examination the therapist determines whether or not your issue is a chiropractic one. If in doubt, they will ask for X-rays and may send you to another specialist. Chiropractors work on sleep and digestive problems, allergies, fatigue, headaches … They are authorized by law to manipulate newborns, pregnant women and cervical. They do not massage but stretch and press the muscles and ligaments and adjust breathing. In an emergency situation, they try to prevent pain by liberating the body’s capacity to heal itself. CENTRE CHIROPRATIQUE DES ALPILLES Amélie Haran et Jean-Baptiste Daumont 7c av de la 1ère Division Française Libre ZA de la gare 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel.: 04 90 95 85 80 Site: www.alpilleschiro.fr Centre Chiropratique des Alpilles THE 4 + Private car park and access for disabled persons communiqué communiqué Eyragues | Pépinière Braun | Maussane-les-Alpilles | Provençal cuisine | A gift from the Mediterranean Jean Martin, Provence, quite simply on’t drive too fast on the road from Eyragues to St-Rémy because you might just miss the sky blue sign for the Braun nursery. The blue of the southern sky is the emblem of this nursery that has specialized for 20 years in the most exquisite plants for Mediterranean gardens. You’ll find perennials with an excellent collection of sages, flower bushes and climbers. The nurserymen know their plants inside out and are keen to share their knowledge. They will know exactly how to help you create your garden as much from the technical side as from the creative side. To enhance the natural beauty of your house, you will find sariteas, hardy passionflowers (like the P. violacea in the photo below), nightshades, and an incredible collection of Banks roses, clouds of yellow and white thornless pompons that often have a perfume as well. Being a lover of fragrance, Pierre encourages his customers to awaken this often ignored sense by choosing their plants for their per- n the rue Charloun Rieu in Maussane-les-Alpilles, Jean Martin’s boutique is a must in the quest for authenticity and delicacies.This family business is a veritable ode to talent and to regional culinary tradition. It represents the alchemy between roots firmly planted in a land with multiple sources of wealth and an emblem of Provence, the olive. “In 1920, an idea began to take form in our grandfather’s mind – he wanted to pierce the secret of broken olives. Jean Martin’s business was born. Since then, we have lived between the fields and the kitchen, near the stove and the table.” Based on olives and vegetables, Jean Martin would invent a voyage for the sense of taste . Attached to the past but open to the future, he would reinvent traditional recipes. This taste for sun-drenched O D fume. Among these are tree of sadness, cestrum nocturnum, honeysuckle, wisteria, osmanthus, tuberose, and many others besides. To illuminate your shaded garden, you might discover a magnificent collection of hydrangeas in various colors, flowers that like high-lime soils to boot. In addition to local species, the nursery also has rare and unusual plants from South Africa, Asia, North and South America. The collection can be seen in the nursery in Eyragues and also at the many events where Pia and Pierre show. nature would be nurtured by the Martin family as if it were a treasure. Provence being a land of influences and blends, the list of preparations grew all the time. 80% of the basics ingredients in Jean Martin’s workshop, were grown in the region. Cooked in Tarascon with no added colorants or preservatives, the house creations gave the impression that they came directly from the kitchen garden. These products are sold exclusively in the boutique in Maussane. Fanny (4th generation), Claire and Julie are happy to give information, hints and tips for their preparations. LA BOUTIQUE JEAN MARTIN 9 rue Charloun Rieu - 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 34 63 - Fax: 04 90 54 40 79 www.jeanmartin.fr - boutique@jeanmartin.fr PÉPINIÈRE BRAUN Pia and Pierre Braun 1016, route de Saint-Rémy de Provence - D571 13630 Eyragues Tel.: 04 90 92 89 56 / 06 10 37 50 18 Website: www.pepiniere-braun.com Open from Tuesday to Friday from 8.30 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm. Saturdays from 8.30 am to noon. The Restaurant Marc de Passorio was awarded a star by Michelin and 3 toques by Gault Millau Swept along by the seasons and his inspirations, Marc de Passorio is preparing his new menu: “Heart of salmon ‘s filet Marinated with Mexique BIO coffee Green peas and broad beans", “Beef filet (matured in Valrugues) smoked with thyme from Alpilles Potatoes and parmesan cheese mousseline Tomatoes and Mozzarella" are the latest examples. A fter a year of working together, Adrien Louis has just been appointed executive chef in the Restaurant Marc de Passorio and Bastien Leroux who joined Marc de Passorio’s team six months ago is now sous-chef while Vincent Rimmelly has headed south to New Zealand to prepare the opening of another restaurant, “un cuisinier en Provence”. A special “reconnaissance gourmande” menu is now offered in the Bistrot, which has been redecorated with paintings by Jan Van Naeltwijck and articles dealing with gastronomy and automobile rallies. Chef Marc de Passorio represented Provence at the international “Food Asia” salon in Singapore where culinary demonstration followed culinary demonstration for four days. Pastry chef Sylvain Montmasson has joined the Vaucluse association of pastry chefs. This gourmet restaurant has a menu that explores the theme of peas with “Cream of peas, slow-cooked egg, and truffle velouté", “Roast pork fillet with ginger and kaffir, French-style peas"… The magnificent terrace at the Restaurant Marc de Passorio is a haven of relaxation and fine fare. For drinks at aperitif time, a cozy room is at your disposal. Restaurant Marc de Passorio Vallon de Valrugues - 9, chemin Canto Cigalo - Saint-Rémy de Provence – Tel.: 04 90 92 04 40 - www.restaurant-marcdepassorio.fr Gourmet restaurant: menus at 59, 82 and 105 euros. Le Bistrot Gourmand: menus and à la carte menu 28 and 35 euros. 5 communiqué Les Baux de Provence | Huile d’olive | CastelaS, an olive oil full option he Domaine CastelaS has the honor of belonging to one of the most prestigious designations of origins in France, PDO Vallée des Baux de Provence. Why not go the whole quality route and offer a CastelaS olive oil that has everything? To this end, 7 years ago, the Domaine CastelaS opted for organic farming. They were already using integrated farming in the olive grove so, in order to switch to organic norms, they only had to find a solution to fight the olive fruit fly which is the main pest for olives. This proved to be a real challenge because, at the time, there was no practical solution that could be used on a large scale. CastelaS had a plot at Romanin in Saint-Rémy de Provence that was ideal for testing, 15 hectares in a single block planted with PDO varieties and entirely isolated by natural hedges inhabited by beneficial fauna. The only neighbors were vines that had already been organically culti- T production techniques and that, in turn, creates tastier produce. CastelaS is a grand cru that is savored internationally. Here, for instance, are comments from the prestigious SAVANTES event in March 2012 in Séville, Spain: “Intense aroma of green apple and rosemary. It is sophisticated with several overlaid tastes – artivated for a very long time. It took a lot of energy and determination to obtain approval of kaolin, a type of natural clay that repels pests. “At the beginning, nobody believed in it,” recalls Jean- Benoit Hugues. You would have to be mad to go and paint your olive trees white! With the help of AFIDOL*, kaolin is now approved and can be used all summer long to prevent fly dama- ge. This technique is now used in all oil-producing regions of France. As far as taste is concerned, organic olive culture does not make any notable changes. On the other hand, it does make the grower think about his/her choke, sorrel, followed by a very long almond note; a pleasant, complex oil”. Taste it without delay! *AFIDOL : Association Française Interprofessionnelle de l’Olive French olive-growing association MOULIN CASTELAS Route départementale 27A- 13520 Les Baux de Provence Tel.: +33(0)4 90 54 50 86 - www.castelas.com Open every day for tasting and visits Monday to Friday from 8 am to 6 pm Saturday, Sunday and public holidays From 10 am to 1 pm and from 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm communiqué Les Baux de Provence | Exceptional | Grace Kelly, from Monaco to Les Baux n 5th and 6th June 1982, the village of Les Baux-de-Provence was honored by the visit of Princess Grace of Monaco and her son, Prince Albert, Marquis of Les Baux. These were two days of festivities and emotion that will remain in the memory of the villagers as one of the great moments that marked a very special relationship that will go down in history. In 1641, Louis 13th raised the barony of Les Baux to a marquisate O for Hercule Grimaldi, Sovereign Prince of Monaco. Though the connection officially ended with the French Revolution, it has never fully left local hearts and memories. Prince Rainier 3rd, Princess Grace and then Prince Albert, who received the title at birth, have all shown their attachment to Les Baux and the surrounding region and the villagers have always followed the important events in the Principality with a feeling of belonging and affection. In order to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this event and to pay a tribute to the Princess, the township of Les Baux-de-Provence has decided to restage these moments of emotion. Thanks to Paris-Match who opened up their archives, you can now admire photos of some of the great moments in the life of the village and travel back in time to discover the historical connections that tied Les Baux to the history of the Grimaldi family. Raymond Thuilier, then mayor of Les Baux, greets Grace of Monaco An eight-stage walk recounts these moments and, at the same time, leads you to discover the unique heritage of the village. At nightfall, the story continues with the projection of the coats-of-arms of those great families that have marked the history of Provence. 6 PRINCESS GRACE PHOTO EXHIBITIONS “L’album photo Monaco- Les Baux, d’un rocher à l'autre” (Monaco-Les Baux photo album, from one rock to another) From 15th June to 15th November in Les Baux-de-Provence. Free entry. Information from the Office du Tourisme, Maison du Roy Les Baux-de-Provence - Tel.: 04 90 54 34 39 www.lesbauxdeprovence.com communiqué Eygalières | Wine-growing estate – olive oil | On a summer melody, aromas, conviviality and activities at La Vallongue Exceptional wines and oils he former sheep-house between Eygalières and Mouriès, has become, over the years of enthusiastic work, a magnificent show case for the art of wine and oil. The Domaine de la Vallongue combines charm, serenity, and elegance. Half-vegetal, half-mineral, the site is conducive to the many bridges that connect different forms of expression. At present, and until the end of March 2013, the sculptures of Jean-Pierre Rives, can be viewed along a lovely path in the uncultured part of the domaine. T Les Nuits Lyriques de la Vallongue Deeply invested in the arts and their region, the Domaine de la Vallongue is launching Les Nuits Lyriques de la Vallongue so as to share their passion for opera with you. The curtain will go up for the first edition on the 24th and 25th August 2012 with two programs: DIDO & AENEAS SOIREE BEL CANTO With the double heritage of tradition and quality, the Domaine de La Vallongue continues its avid work on the three colors of wine. With new planting and respect for existing plants, the domaine can offer a selection of wines that are among some of the best vintages in Alpilles. This is an invitation to try the rosés Garrigue and Lovely with their light fruity flavors or the deeper, more intense color of the Cuvée du Propriétaire. Also available are reds for laying down, aged in oak, others are ready to drink now and there are several exceptional whites. Another treasure of the Alpilles is our olive oil. Aglandau, Grossane and Bouteillan reveal their colors and aromas in a rich diversity of production single variety, AOC Provence blend Tasting at and AOC Vallée des Baux de Provence blend. la Vallongue... All year round, wines and oils may be tasted during the winery opening hours. Every Thursday, from 1st July to 31st August, from DOMAINE DE LA VALLONGUE RD 24 (between Eygalières and Mouriès) - 13810 Eygalières 10 am to noon, takes Tel.: 33(0)4 90 95 91 70 Fax: 33(0)4 90 95 97 76 place a tasting session for Contact@lavallongue.com - www.lavallongue.com wine and olive oil accomFrom 1st June to 30th September, open every day panied by local cheese from 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm. and delicatessen meat From 1st October to 31st May, open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm. specialties. Alpilles | Upholstery | For individuals and professionals - Restoration, repair & reupholstered of classic and mid century modern pieces - Any window treatment : draperies, roman shades, solar and blackout shades and drapes - Wall upholstery - Custom : chairs, sofas, armchairs, benches ... - Outdoor custom : cushions and any upholtered furnitures. - Fabrics for pergolas and veils for shade Designers and technical fabrics in our shop UPHOLTERY 14 bis, av. de la Vallée des Baux 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 18 28 76 www.mendesruiz.fr THE of fabric samples. free estimates except + Loan for insurence 7 Les Baux de Provence Parcours Renaissance In the heart of Provence, sitting perched on the top of a rock is Les Baux de Provence, not just any village. Meandering through the streets, the path conjures up history and its architectural relics, offering visitors a walk through the Renaissance period. contains a vast number of exhibits including some outstanding figurines made in Naples, scenes illustrating the traditions of Provence and Les Baux linked to the Nativity and a documentary film on the manufacture of these figures. The museum houses several different collections - Neapolitan figurines from the 17th and 18th centuries, 19thcentury "santons" for churches whose painted papier mâché faces and glass sulphur eyes were made by the Carmelite convent in Avignon and figures by famous makers such as Carbonnel, Fouque, Jouve, Peyron Campagna, Toussaint, Thérèse Neveu, Louise Berger, Simone Jouglas etc. The traditional ceremony of the Shepherds' Offering, known locally as the "Pastrage", is staged against the background of Les Baux de Provence, in front of the village church. A traditional Provençal Christmas crib and the everyday life of a 19th-century family are shown in two large windows. For children, a crowd of small brightly-coloured, naively-painted santons is placed at a height that they can reach. Open daily throughout the year. No admission charge THE PENITENT'S CHAPEL On Place de l'église, on the edge of the cliff overlooking the Fontaine Valley, stands the chapel built in the mid 17th century by the Brotherhood of White Penitents. It was raised from the ruins in 1937 by the Brotherhoods of Langue d'Oc and dedicated to St. Estelle who has been asked to watch over the memory of the old penitents from Les Baux. The huge doorway decorated with rusticated masonry and topped by a low relief showing two penitents kneeling and bearing the chiselled inscription, "In nomine Jesu omne genus flectatur" (In the name of Jesus, every knee shall bow). The interior of the chapel, which once had ribbed vaulting, is decorated with frescoes by Yves Brayer (1974) representing the Shepherds' Christmas in the Provençal tradition. THE ROY MAISON - TOURIST OFFICE printers of the 15th and 16th centuries, Louis Jou was to Until the French Revolution, the town of Les Baux was the centre of both royal and lordly jurisdiction and, for many years, it was dispensed from this building, the "King's House", built in 1499. Justice was meted out here in the sovereign's name. In the 19th century, an opening was made in the ramparts behind the buildings, giving the town the entrance we see today. The King's House is now the home of the Tourist Office. SAINT VINCENT'S CHURCH enrich the tradition by creating his own typefaces and making them with his own hands, composing type by hand and designing the page layout of splendid publications. He illustrated those with woodcuttings and printed on a hand press. Open : with advanced booking. Tel 33 (0)4 90 54 34 17 Admission fees : Adults 3 € - Students and children 1.50 € - Children (under 7) free morwan@wanadoo.fr - www.fondationlouisjou.org JEAN DE BRION MANSION LOUIS JOU FOUNDATION THE SANTONS MUSEUM This 16th-century building was harmoniously restored by Master Typographer Louis Jou who, in doing so, played his part in the conservation and revival of the village. The finest works of Louis JOU are exhibited alongside his furniture and collections -ancient books, engravings by Dürer and Goya, paintings, sculptures and ceramics - in the intimacy of the 6 rooms of the Renaissance Jean de Brion Mansion. The Tour is followed by a visit to the workshops containing the presses used by Louis Jou, Master typographer, engraver, printer and publisher. An incomparable creative artist influenced by the great The building that houses the Santons Museum was built over the old town walls. It was purchased by the Community of Les Baux in 1619 and used successively as a guardroom, school, court and Town Hall from the mid 17thcentury to 1960. The building was partly rebuilt in 1657. Elegant ribbed vaulting was erected beyond the beautiful Renaissance vaulting that already existed. The basement still contains two dungeons built in the 16th century and used as prison cells until the French Revolution. The museum of "santons" (figures for the Christmas crib) The old village had three churches - St. Andrew's in the Fontaine Valley which was the first parish church (it no longer exists), Notre-Dame-du-Château also known as St. Catherine's Chapel (12th-16th centuries) within the walls of the fortress, and St. Vincent's Church. Once a priory dependent on Saint-Paul de Mausole in SaintRémy-de-Provence, the 12th-century building is typical of the constructions in Les Baux with its southern section built half into the rock. The nave, which has ribbed barrel vaulting, was extended eastwards in 1609 without breaking the Romanesque harmony of the building as a whole. Inside are some modern stained-glass windows by Max Ingrand (1960), a gift from Prince Rainier III of Monaco. There is also the funeral chapel of the Manville family with Flamboyant Gothic vaulting and, in the chapel dug into the rock, the ceremonial cart used for the "pastrage" ceremony during Midnight Mass when the cart carries the newborn lamb offered to the Baby Jesus by the shepherds. Outside, the West Front underwent extensive alteration during the 19th-century restoration work which, in par- 8 ticular, changed the flight of steps that used to run along the wall (there are traces of its removal). Above the doorway and a rounded window, there is a superb sculpture of a lion. On the South side, the Lantern of the Deceased is an elegant circular turret topped by a cupola decorated with gargoyles. Tradition has it that a fire was lit in the turret whenever somebody from Les Baux passed away. MANVILLE MANSION The town's finest Renaissance mansion was built in 1571 for a rich Protestant family headed by Claude de Manville. The irregular frontage following the line of the main street contains many wide mullioned windows, ensuring plenty of light for the interior. The inner courtyard with its porticos repeats the same ordered layout as the Renaissance mullions. The mansion has been restored and is now the Town Hall. RENAISSANCE WINDOW POST TENEBRAS LUX Opposite the majestic façade of the Manville Residence, there was once a large mansion dating from 1571 (the "Brisson-Peyre" Residence). All that remains of it today is a mullioned window with an entablature bearing a Calvinist inscription, "Post Tenebras Lux 1571" (After the Darkness, Light). This declaration of Protestant faith suggests that there may have been a place of worship here, used by the Reformed Religion. In fact, there were many followers of the Protestant faith in Les Baux since it was tolerated by the Baron des Baux. HOTEL DE PORCELET THE YVES BRAYER MUSEUM This fine late 16th century mansion has an original facade and elegant finely carved transom and mullion casement windows. The museum contains a retrospective look at the works of Yves Brayer. It is an outstanding collection because of the quality and rarity of the one hundred or more works covering almost sixty years of the artist's career. Beside Provençal landscapes hang paintings inspired by Spain and Italy. They focus on the main subjects dear to the heart of Yves Brayer, one of the most representative painters of contemporary figuration. Opening hours : April to September, open every day from 10 am to 12.30 pm and 2 pm to 6.30 pm Admission Fees: adults : 5 € per person - Groups : 3 € per person Tel 33 (0)4 90 54 36 99 - www.yvesbrayer.com PAVILLON DE LA REINE JEANNE Nestling in the Fontaine Valley near the old wash-house is an elegant corner pavilion in the Renaissance style built for Jeanne de Quiqueran, the wife of Honoré des Martins, Baron of Les Baux from 1568 to 1581. It is a decorative piece of architecture designed to ornament a garden that belonged to the Baux family and was known as the "Count's Garden" or the "King's Orchard". Frédéric Mistral had a replica built for his tomb in Maillane. communiqué Saint-Rémy | Culinary Art Workshop and Boutique | Art & Cook, the joy of cooking with the best y bedside books were always about flavors, recipes, food … For me, setting up Art & Cook was the quintessence of my passion and the desire to share it.” With the concept of two-in-one, workshop and boutique, Patricia Venturi made the dream of many foodies come true – she has combined a teaching/experimenting space with the utensils necessary to amateurs and professionals alike. The 100m2 of the Art & Cook boutique is a show room strictly reserved to the stars of the culinary world and only shows the very best M of utensils. With a purpose of quality and long-term reliability, Patricia Venturi only selects brands that are appreciated by professionals. Bamix is the very best in stationary electric food mixers and offers all sorts of possibilities. Cristel, from Made in France, specializes in removable handles. The motors of Magimix food processors carry a lifetime guarantee. Art & Cook is the new meeting point in Saint-Rémy where conviviality blends perfectly with culinary art. ART & COOK WORKSHOP AND BOUTIQUE 6, av. Frédéric Mistral - 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel.: 04 90 20 24 33 - Website: www.artandcook.fr communiqué Saint-Rémy | Pool equipment and maintenance, watering and customer service | Eaux & Piscines: guidance, choice and quality for your installations he best equipment, accessories, consumables and maintenance supplies for your pool – and a selection that is just as large for your watering system. For many years now in Saint-Rémy, Eaux&Piscines has been the local professional carrying the best known brands in their store. Their difference is quite simple, according to Luc Barriol, “a pleasant reception, guidance and the right answers for everyone”. An inhouse approach and real technicians for all solutions from installation to after sales. As regards swimming pools, if Eaux&Piscines built their reputations on “ready-to-swim pools” they have also ensured high-performance, personalized follow-through. Water analysis is a real laboratory operation enabling the specialist to suggest a stabilizer, the appropriate water treatment or cleaning product, and at the right dose. Guidance for the installation and the everyday maintenance of the pool installation, T information on products and accessories, really listening to what the customer says, defining needs and being strict about only suggesting what is really necessary and what is the most efficient. They offer a quality choice from a vast stock of products, equipment and accessories (filters, pumps, automation, cleaning, baskets, cartridges, skimmer flaps, pool cleaner bags …), all immediately available. Finally, after sales (pumps, pool cleaners…), has specialized personnel and equipment and a fully-equipped workshop carrying over a thousand references in spare parts so that all brands that are still manufactured can be rapidly (repairs are tested in the pool in the outdoor show area!). Helping you with your installations is also one of their missions, guidance and follow-through, so that you can create and install your own pool. As for watering systems, Luc Barriol and his team can help you install the system that EAUX & PISCINES Z.A de la Gare - Av. des Jonquerolles 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel.: 04 90 92 22 58 - Fax : 04 90 92 63 29 contact@eauxetpiscines.com - www.eauxetpiscines.com Store open from 8.30 am to 7 pm every day. THE 9 really corresponds to your needs, choosing from among the top manufacturers (Netafim, Toro, Rain Bird, Hunter, Irritrol…). All you need to do is bring a plan of your garden! They will analyze your needs and suggest a complete implantation project along with a detailed quote. You can then create your own installation and reduce the costs with the advice of professionals and all of the equipment already on hand in the store! They also have all the ranges for professionals and non-professionals for irrigation and boring pumps. + The OZEO 2012 catalog, available in pdf format on the Eaux & Piscines website Five | Free Events | not to Miss Saint-Eloi [ from 25th June onwards ] Saint-Eloi was the patron saint of metal workers such as blacksmiths, carters, laborers, goldsmiths, gunsmiths, and armourers. Saint-Eloi also protects mules, donkeys and horses. According to the Provençal expression, “Sant Aloi es un bouon sant, si fèsto dous coup l'an” which translates as “Saint-Eloi is a good saint, we celebrate him twice a year”. The first time is on his religious feast day, 1st December, and a second time on 25th June, the day his relics were brought from Noyon cathedral to Paris in 1212. When summer arrives the traditional Saint-Eloi festivities start up again. Each village has adopted a specific date, depending on its history, and its own sequence of events even if there is little difference from one village to another. This is a highly colorful Provençal custom, generally practiced in the north of the Alpilles. Generally speaking, the event is organized around a procession of Carreto ramado – carts decorated with leaves and flowers or fruit and vegetables depending on the village. In fact, it is a cart that is pulled by thirty heavy horses that the occasion celebrates. The locals dress in typical Provençal costumes to accompany the parade. The horses have pride of place and are decked out in their Sunday best. Each is covered with a large white blanket decorated with red ribbons and is adorned with extraordinary Sarrazin-style harnessing. Finally, the whole procession is accompanied by tambourines and fifes playing typically Provençal music sweeping folk dancers along with their rythm. (See the local tourist information bureau for the dates of the Saint-Eloi festivities).Do not miss the events in Maussane-les-Alpilles, Châteaurenard, Saint-Rémy, Maillane, Graveson, Eyragues, Rognonas, Barbentane, Mollégès, Noves… Mondial de la pétanque [ early July ] This petanque competition is the best known in the world. It is open to all and takes place in Marseille. 13 000 participants are expected, coming from all the regions of France and twenty or so foreign countries besides the thousands of spectators. It is one of the truly great sports gatherings. Every year, it starts on the first weekend in July and is played for five days, Sunday to Thursday. The games take place in the Parc Borély and the finals are played on the Vieux Port in Marseille. Bastille Day [ 14th July ] 14th July is Bastille Day in France. It was established by law in 1880 in reference to 14th July 1789, the day the Bastille fell. It was a symbolic day, the end of tyranny, of the ruling class and their privileges. It is now a public holiday. Every 14th July sees military processions being prepared throughout France (the best known one is on the Champs-Élysées in Paris). Most towns and villages put on dances and fireworks to celebrate either on 13th or 14th July (see the local tourist information bureau for further information). Tour de France [ July ] The Tour de France is a cycling event with a number of stages and takes place in France every year in July. It was created in 1903 by Henri Desgrange and L'Auto magazine. The “Tour” (AKA “la grande Boucle” – the big loop - in France) covers over 3000 kilometers. The stage that ends at Mont Ventoux, near Carpentras, is one of the best known. Melon festival - Cavaillon [ 6th to 8th July ] It’s plain for all to see. Cavaillon is the melon capital and that is why the town holds a melon festival the weekend before 14th July every year. For four whole days the melon takes pride of place in the town with recipes, banquets, tasting events in the streets, tours, exhibition, etc. Further information from the tourist information bureau: 04 90 71 32 01 communiqué Tarascon | Souleiado | Musée Souleiado, stronghold of Provençal elegance he Musée Souleiado houses a treasure that is quite unique. The workshop in Tarascon was the last factory to have produced indiennes by hand despite textile industry competition and has now fallen heir to plates from numerous Provençal factories. Over 40 000 indienne plates were added to this remarkable collection between 1806 and 1977. In 2012, this enchanting place will once again know the sound of mallets on stamps and the smell of ink. Aged 25, Clément Trouche has been the manager of the museum since October. As a narrator and teacher, he now leads weekly workshops to pass on his knowledge. “Three months ago, nobody knew how to make indiennes. Today, several enthusiastic students have mastered the technique. Most of the students are women from Arles who want to print their own fabrics but anyone can participate and men tend to enjoy the technical side of the work.” Besides this, students have the luxu- T MUSÉE SOULEIADO 39, rue Charles-Deméry - (formerly rue Proudhon, after the theater) - 13150 Tarascon Tel.: 04 90 91 08 80 - Website: www.souleiado.com Open from Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm. Guided tour (booking required) 10€/person, entry 7€, reduced rate 5€. ry of being able to pick from a collection of 3000 patterns. The house has come (noisily) back to life. In June, it underwent a revolution. The THE communiqué Saint-Rémy | Restaurant | Le Grain de Sel –taste and atmosphere he Grain de Sel is up front from the start. With the large brightly colored fresco on the theme of jazz and hospitality, the convivial lounge, and the veranda underneath the wisteria, well … you instantly lose all notion of time. This restaurant is a cocoon where meals tend to take time quite simply because you feel at home there, settled comfortably and listening to good music. Alain Poeydomenge wants to highlight the idea of a night restaurant by developing the lounge bar side of things. Nevertheless, the house sticks to their essentials – traditional food made with fresh produce. Putting the emphasis on her basic raw materials, the young chef, Sarah Cahoreau, adds a subtle touch of creativity. “I have been doing this job for 40 years,” explains Alain, “and I am absolutely asto- T nished by this culinary genius.” On the subject of desserts, this seasoned restaurateur hopes to soon engage the talents of a new pastry chef that recently moved to Saint-Rémy. The establishment remains a place for gourmets where the menu follows the seasons and uses regional produce: rack of lamb with thyme, duckling breast and pepper sauce, sea bass with fennel and candied orange … The “grandes assiettes”, (nine flavors, home-made sushis, …) will evolve along with the Grain de Sel. In the evenings, the restaurant is going to develop its wine bar side and host theme evenings twice a month. “I’m going to book jazz and soul groups; music in harmony with the surroundings.” The Grain de Sel is a place of culinary and cultural art and, at present, is being used by Michel Calvet to exhibit his work. “He’s a long time friend. We both fell in love with Saint-Rémy so until he opens his gallery, I have fifteen of his works on show on my walls.” GRAIN DE SEL 23-25 boulevard Mirabeau (opposite the musée Jouenne) 13210 Saint-Rémy - Tél : 04 90 92 00 89 www.graindesel-resto.com Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Lunchtime menu from 10 to 22 euros. Evening menu from 15 to 35 euros Extensive wine list. Wine by the glass. THE terrace in the shade of the wisteria + The and the lounge 11 + museography was reviewed, rooms were converted, and small yards and closes were reopened. This huge upheaval was necessary so that the museum could house an exhibition dedicated to 40 years of Souleiado collections, from Nicole Barra to Chantal Thomass. This event will present 60 to 70 models from the 50s to the 80s including the best-selling dresses “Sari”, “Plein soleil”, and “Souleiado”. “We’ll start with the first creations by Hélène Deméry from the early days of fashion just before the 50s. A large part of the retrospective will be consecrated to Nicole Barra, second wife of Charles Deméry, the brand’s founder, before continuing with 1975 and the arrival of Chantal Thomass. In reality, the brand’s success was due to the discernment of women up until the 90s.” A story of women who knew what the influential women of their time liked: Juliette Gréco, Brigitte Bardot, Marie Laforêt, Suzanne Flon… The exhibition “40 ans de collections Souleiado” runs until 15th October 2012. communiqué Arles and Baux de Provence | Alexandre Chapellerie | Quality and creativity nastasia has been working with hats since she was small. As the daughter of a hat maker in Marseille, she very quickly got involved by decorating her mother’s creations. For the last eight years she has been reliving this passion in her boutique in the historic center of Arles. And her husband, Jacques, has caught the virus too. Jacques runs the shop in Les Baux de Provence. “Thanks to my wife, I have discovered a world that I love. I really enjoy pre- A senting only the very best – which is a bare minimum for a place like Les Baux.”The two Alexandre Chapellerie boutiques are sole agents in the region for the best-known European designers with, notably, the top French and Italian brands. Being an expert in the matter, Anastasia only deals with the best materials, panama, Montecristi, Cuenca, Venetian and Florentine straw, linen, horsehair, knitted raffia, and even lacquered Swiss straw. “I have hats by some of the top designers and to that I add the work of young designers that I discovered at salons, through the grapevine and on the Internet. As I know how to make hats myself I have a privileged relationship with my suppliers. They show me their collections and I can add variations on the choice of materials and the decorations.”At Alexandre Chapellerie, there is only one model per hat. Cloche hats, wide-brimmed hats, wedding hats, head jewels, panamas for men and women … there is a hat for everyone. “I look at the shape of the face, the eyes, the haircut and I know immediately which hat is the right one. I guide the customer in his/her choice. As far as hats are concerned bad choices are not allowed.” And if the had needs retouching, Anastasia can do it right there. Stoles, handbags, and clutch bags complete the house proposal. ALEXANDRE CHAPELLERIE 28 rue des Suisses - 13200 Arles – Tel.: 04 90 93 23 16 Open on Mondays from 2 pm to 6.30 pm and from Tuesday to Saturday from 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 7 pm. Rue du château - 13520 les Baux de Provence – Tel.: 06 23 23 46 20 Open every day from 10 am to 7 pm Email: filhon.jacques@neuf.fr THE + Professional advice… communiqué Arles | Ladies Apparel | At Sarah M, being feminine is a question of style – starting from size 42 ituated in the historic center of Arles, a town of art and history that is listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO, Sarah M adds a touch of creativity to clothing. To start with, the window displays show warmth combined with elegance where bright prints and glowing colors have pride of place - turquoise, orange, yellow, pink... The cozy feeling of the boutique gives it an air reminiscent of a sitting room for ladies. Customers feel at home here and enjoy taking their time. The atmosphere is favorable to trying clothes on and the customers can disrobe in all privacy and, if they so choose, can ask Giulia Hôte for her suggestions. For 10 years, this fashionista has been guiding her faithful clientele through carefully selected collections. At Sarah M fashion isn’t a question of size but a question of style! Two Italian brands S combine to illustrate her viewpoint, Marina Rinaldi and Persona (within the limits of affordable luxury by Max Mara). “These brands are the first to have dared produce complete collections in larger sizes. Their designers create comfortable and elegant clothes that lend stylishness to women who do not wear standard sizes.” They use fluid, noble fabrics, linen and linen jersey made in Italy, silks, cottons, and microfibers. Giulia completes her selection with garments from the French pant specialist, Bruno Saint Hilaire. “I chose him because he knows how to adapt his models to women’s bodies; he knows how to make them look really good.”Brightly colored stoles THE + and scarves by Marc Rozier add a touch of originality. And, in preparation for an autumn with lots of new ideas, the fashion-hungry can find the first items in the autumn-winter collection as early as this summer. Appointments are possible outside the normal opening hours. 12 SARAH M 23 rue des Suisses - 13200 Arles – Tel.: 04 90 96 47 05 Website: www.sarahm.fr - Email: giulia.hote@orange.fr Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 7.15 pm. communiqué communiqué Alpilles | Employment agency | Eyragues | Parks and Gardens | Au Service de Madame, the agency for select domestic personnel Terre et Forêt: green is the color … ousekeepers, nannies, estate managers, cooks, chauffeurs, tutors, domestic staff … the employment agency for domestic personnel for luxury homes, “Au Service de Madame” has a rich, choice CV bank. Laurence Marsaud founded her agency in the Parisian region then later opened a branch in Avignon, choosing to put her management and consultancy services at the disposal of proprietors. With over 15 years of experience as an estate manager, notably in the Alpilles, Laurence Marsaud can identify, understand and foresee all of the problems that can occur to, and requests made by, proprietors and future employers. Each and every future employee is selected according to experience and reference investigation according to Laurence. Police clearance, references, a minimum of 3 to H o you want to make the most of the natural environment around your home without having to worry about the maintenance of your trees, flower beds, borders, hedges, and lawn? Throughout the Alpilles, this dream has become reality for clients of Terre et Forêt who do not have the time, the inclination, and sometimes not even the knowledge to do it themselves. Parks, gardens, alleys, living fences, orchards, olive groves … Eric Del Puppo and his professional gardener-landscapers cultivate S 5 years of experience in the same household, and a confidentiality agreement are the basics of selection. Laure Marsaud is a veritable “domestic staff headhunter”, knows all her proprietors requests on her fingertips, and has two packages for future employers. “Simple search” and “complete search” which ranges from simply presenting candidates to dealing with administrative procedures and drawing up contracts… Every placement has a ninemonth follow up from “Au service de Madame” and the personnel is replaced if necessary so as to ensure client satisfaction. Laurence Marsaud loves Provence and has worked in Eygalières. She also operates throughout France and abroad to accompany her clients in their requests and in their residences. 7 days a week, from 8 am to 8 pm, Laurence Marsaud is there to inform and respond to all the expectations that those who wish to have discreet and efficient domestic staff in their daily life might have. Laurence Marsaud - Tél : 06 59 54 18 71 www.auservicedemadame.com auservicedemadame@gmail.com THE the skills necessary to maintain and develop existing areas, to transform them from one season to the next, and to design and create a vegetated environment from scratch. “We are at our clients’ disposal for occasional jobs but we can also take care of regular work, particularly maintenance work, lawn-mowing, watering, etc. We are responsive, work quickly and adapt to our client’s rhythm, especially where secondary residences or seasonal rentals are concerned so as to disturb people as little as possible.” comments Eric who has made attentiveness, guidance, proximity and competency his company’s trademark. Terre et Forêt also takes care of pruning, planting, felling, and clearing; likewise they also design tailored, vegetated spaces according to their client’s tastes and the purpose of the space. They do not use 3D virtual creation but prefer to discuss and explain, to understand and translate the desires of their clientele so they can bring them to life starting with the earthwork right up to planting. They can also help choose the plants in partnership with well-known nurseries such as Braun in Eyragues and the Praderie nursery. Terre et Forêt, for green, open spaces to live and relax in! TERRE ET FORÊT 13630 Eyragues Tel.: 06 62 24 57 05 Fax: 04 32 62 04 83 de Madame is at your service + Aufromservice 8 am to 8 pm. 13 Six | Free Events | not to Miss Courses Camarguaises [ all summer in Alpilles villages ] Over the years, the “course camarguaise” has become a sport in its own right. The first one took place in 1402 in Arles. Nowadays, there are 700 to 800 of them per year spread out over 4 departments (Bouches-du-Rhône, Gard, Hérault, Vaucluse). The idea is that, in an arena, a bull is presented to the crowd and men known as “raseteurs” also make their entrance. They have 15 minutes to remove the bull’s adornments (cockade, tassels, twine). The bull is not harmed in any way and leaves the arena absolutely safe and sound. A total of 6 bulls will enter the arena during a “course camarguaise”. 66th edition of the Avignon Festival [ 7th to 28th July ] The Avignon Festival is one of the most important international manifestations of contemporary living theater. Every year, in July, Avignon becomes a town-theater. The architectural heritage of the town becomes a set of stages, backdrops, places for performances. There are over 1150 shows to be seen in a party atmosphere and always lots of street theater too. Contact : +33 (0)4 32 74 32 74 Fête des Calissons [ 1st Sunday in September ] On the first Sunday in September since 1630 takes place the traditional blessing of the Calissons d'Aix en Provence. This is a tradition held dear in local traditions. A blessing is given each year to the sound of tambourines and pipes. There is dancing and demonstrations of working with sugar and making calissons. In the afternoon, the statue of Notre-Dame des Calissons is carried by the calissonmaking elite to the Place des Quatre-Dauphins (various events and shows). Médiévale de Tarascon [ 3rd weekend in August ] During the 3rd weekend in August, Tarascon takes a trip back in time to the end of the Middle Ages. In town, you’ll see costumed soldiers training, fighting, jousting… A large mediaeval market at the foot of the castle hosts events with fun workshops for young and old alike about trades of yore and the presentation of arms. Foire à la Brocante in l’Isle sur la Sorgue [ from 11th to 15th August ] We suggest you see, for instance the “course camarguaise” in Eyragues set up by the Club Taurin Paul Ricard La Bourgine in August during the village fête. Tel. 04 90 92 82 32. The Foire à la Brocante in l’Isle sur la Sorgue is the major summer event for lovers of second hand goods and flea markets. Over 220 exhibitors join the 250 resident professionals in the town. Antiques, second-hand goods and decorative items are at the heart of this festival. Several free events are open to visitors in the fair enclosure with exhibitions, the Nuit des Chineurs, a contemporary art fair, and an international fair of old books. Village fêtes [ All summer ] A village or town fête is customary in Provence on the day of the saint to whom the local church is dedicated. It is first and foremost a great occasion for outdoor festivities. Games with bulls are set up, conversations are easily started at the bars set up in the streets, large meals are served, dances are planned and there is often a funfair. (Contact the local tourist information bureau to find out the dates for the village fête.) Coverage ratio of 0.30 on all plots Exemple d’une réalisation par les Maisons Casanova Free choice of builder Entirely enclosed ® ® ®: RESERVED ® ® ® ® ® ® Plots of 900, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1500, and 1600m2 Exemple d’une réalisation par les Maisons Casanova Warden’s house made of glue-laminated wood panels Serviced land from 150 000 euros Exemple d’une réalisation par les Maisons Casanova 2 exceptional plots of land of 4000 m2 LES ALPILLES, IN A SECURE, WOODED ENVIRONMENT 34 serviced lots – Free choice of builder Sales: José Sako: 06 62 11 13 28 - immoconseil.92@gmail.com Six | refreshing | drinks A glass of rosé with ice [ Un rosé avec des glaçons ] Provence is definitely rosé country. From the Alpilles to the Luberon and from Aix to Salon, many of our domains produce rosé wine. Among the better known are the Côteaux d’Aix en Provence, Côtes du Luberon, and Côtes de Provence, and they are perfect for a nice cool wine at drinks time as well as being just the thing with grilled food. Pastis or Ricard [ Un Pastis ou un Ricard ] This is an aniseed-based drink made from neutral spirits flavored with extracts of anise, star anise, fennel and liquorice. Savor it with water and ice. This is the most popular drink in Marseille and the region at drinks time. Pac and water [ Un Pac à l’eau ] Gambetta and lemonade [ Gambetta limonade ] Gambetta is a Provencal cordial produced by macerating plants, fruit, and fruit peel (50 ingredients including tangerine and gentian). Gambetta is generally served as a long drink diluted with still or sparkling water or lemonade. It bears a strange resemblance to a certain very famous American drink. It can also be added to beer or milk. Pac is a lemon-based cordial. It appeared in the 60s after a series of very hot summers. It quenches your thirst and refreshes you and is appreciated by the locals because it is neither too sweet nor too tart. Mauresque [ Une mauresque ] This is a fairly common cocktail in the south of France made with pastis and orgeat. Orgeat [ Un sirop d’orgeat ] The real orgeat is a very old drink made with barley that is often drunk in summer because of its refreshing qualities. There are several ways to make it, for instance, you can add melon and cucumber seeds to barley as well as crushed sweet almonds. No doubt, it was the use of sweet almonds that gave rise to what we know as orgeat today. Alcohol can damage your health and should be consumed in moderation 16 Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer| Exposition | “Se souvenir de la mer” The Domaine du château d’Avignon in les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is hosting an exceptional exhibition with the lovely name of “Se souvenir de la mer” (memories of the sea) until 31st October. Véronique Ellena, La plage d’Antifer (rose), 2006, Color photo, 31,5 x 39,5 cm, courtesy Galerie Alain Gutharc © Véronique Ellena et on the western limit of the Rhone delta, the Domaine du château d’Avignon (a listed building) is an unexpected assembly of greenery, technology and architecture, born of the imagination of Louis PratNoilly. This extraordinary place takes us right into the heart of a project that is technological, artistic, environmental and deeply human all at the same time to which the cultural program proposed today is a mirror. The program blends history, contemporary creation and living arts in one single movement. It offers the public the opportunity to discover a protected heritage, constantly reinterpreted by the artists associated with exhibitions on show each summer in the castle, the grounds and outbuildings. This year, the Conseil Général des Bouches-du-Rhône, under the direction of Véronique Baton, an art historian, and Agnès Barruol, the chief heritage curator are putting on the exhibition “Se souvenir de la mer” until 31st October 2012. S © Judith Bartolani / Claude Caillol An outstanding exhibition Lucien Clergue, Nus de la mer, 1956 et 1958, photo, 110 X 93 cm, Black and white conventional print from the artist’s collection © Lucien Clergue A place conducive to a path A place of dreams and innumerable utopias, symbol of infinity and omnipotence, the sea has always inspired man with contradictory and disproportionate sentiments. The geographical location of the Domaine du château d’Avignon, between earth and sky, allows visitors to discover an exceptional path where contemporary works combine to create with the monument and its surroundings. The exhibition is a conversation between a diversity of practices and artistic generations, highlighting the multiplicity of inspiration, drawing on the spirit of the place in its historic relationship with water. From rough seas and the marvels of the sea to the metaphysical perception of it with regards to its extent, from beach culture to marine deposits, the path evokes poetics of the memory where the world of senses meets imaginary viewpoints. The ground floor of the castle opens onto a dreamlike promenade amid marine creatures and the fauna of the depths. Here can be found creations by Philippe Droguet, Laurie Karp, Paul Amar, Woodrow, Marcel Broodthaers Véronique Boudier Bartolani and Claude Caillol, Céline Duval, Gérard Deschamps, and Antoine Dorotte. Inflatable multicolored articles and paddling pools, surfboards and smiling fish, bright swimsuits and photos of memories form the basis of amusing works and act as much as vectors for melancholy , in memory of happy days. Further on, the sea in its physical identity and unforeseeable character calls the shots and clings to its power to sweep things away. The works of Masbedo, Francis Alÿs, Marcel Dinahet, and François-Xavier Courrèges help to understand this. The sea is sensual; it shapes forms, wakes senses and incites fantasies via the work of Lucien Clergue and Anne Pesce. Threatened, the sea embodies ecological risk and crystallizes memory and history according to Yang Yi’s and Sigalit Landau’s points of view. Since the end of the 18th century, the sea, its shores, its landscapes have become the perfect place for contemplation, for the picturesque, and an essential source of inspiration for artistic creation. Works by Fischli and Weiss, Sarkis, Olivier Grossetête, Véronique Ellena and Sophie Braganti, using contemporary methods, remind us of our constant awe faced with the sea. DOMAINE DÉPARTEMENTAL DU CHÂTEAU D’AVIGNON Route départementale 570 13460 Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Tel.: 04 13 31 94 54 Open every day except Tuesdays from 9.45 am to 5.30 pm Sigalit Landau, Mother and child, 2010, bicyclettes et sel de la mer morte, courtesy the artist and Kamel Mennour, Paris © Sigalit Landau Photo. Charles Duprat 17 Luberon | Museums and Provençal Heritage and Traditions | [8] [12] [3] [5] [4] [2] [10] [1] [11] [6] [7] [9] 5 Abbaye de Notre-Dame de Sénanque 8 Pierre Salinger museum Nestling at the bottom of a valley, the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque remains one of the purest examples of primitive Cistercian architecture. A community of Cistercian monks lives there. The museum presents the noteworthy career of this journalist, friend to Kennedy. 84220 Gordes Tel.: 04 90 72 05 72 Guided tours every day except Sunday at 10.30 am, 2.30 pm, 3.30 pm and 4.30 pm. 1 Fondation Blachère The Fondation Blachère is dedicated to developing artistic and cultural exchange between Europe and Africa. 384, avenue des Argiles - 84400 Apt Tel.: 04 32 52 06 15 Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 2 pm to 7 pm. 6 Jane Eakin’s houses Created in honor of Jane Eakin, this site aims to keep her memory alive and to make her work known to the widest possible audience. Rue Sainte Barbe - 84560 Ménerbes Further information from the town hall in Ménerbes: 04 90 72 22 05 La Bastide Rose - 99, chemin des Croupières 84250 Le Thor Tel.: 06 78 43 57 33 Open every day except Tuesday from 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm. 9 Lourmarin castle This castle was the first to be built in the Renaissance style in Provence. Impasse Pont du Temple 84160 Lourmarin Tel.: 04 90 68 15 23 In June, July, and August, open from 10 am to 6 pm and, in Sepember, from 10.30 am to 11.30 am and from 2.30 pm to 5.30 pm. 2 Maison du Parc du Luberon 7 Corkscrew museum In the heart of the old center of Apt is the Maison du Parc du Luberon, set in an 18th century town house. The permanent exhibition of the geology museum has a rich collection of fossils tracing the geological history of the Luberon. Over 1000 corkscrews from the 17th century onwards are on display. 10 Lavender Museum Domaine de la Citadelle - 84560 Ménerbes Tel.: 04 90 72 41 58 Open every day from 10 am to noon and from 2 pm to 7 pm Discover the history of lavender and its uses. 60, Place Jean Jaurès - 84400 Apt Tel.: 04 90 04 42 00 Open from Monday to Friday from 8.30 am to noon and from 1.30 pm to 8 pm as well as Saturday mornings. Musée de la Lavande Route de Gordes 84220 Coustellet Tel.: 04 90 76 91 23 11 Pont Julien 3 Village des Bories If you visit Bonnieux, stop at the Pont Julien, a Roman bridge that is over 2000 years old. The village des Bories is an historic monument that offers an invaluable glimpse into the way of life in Provence from ancient times to today. 12 Vallis Clausa paper mill Paper is produced manually using the energy of the river Sorgue. Village des Bories 4 km from Gordes Tel.: 04 90 72 03 48 Open every day from 9 am to sundown. Chemin de la Fontaine 84800 Fontaine de Vaucluse. Tel.: 04 90 20 34 14 In June, open from 9 am to 12.25 pm and from 2 pm to 6.25 pm. In July and August, open from 9 am to 7.25 pm. In September, open from 9 am to 12.25 pm and from 2 pm to 6.55 pm. 4 The Ochre route From Roussillon to Gignac, via Villars, Gargas, and Rustrel, the former ochre quarries in the Apt valley are utterly spectacular. While you’re there: Visit Fontaine de Vaucluse and the paths along the river Sorgue. Start in Roussillon Further information from the Office de Tourisme: 04 90 05 60 25 18 communiqué Gargas | Relais & Châteaux hotel, Luxury Residence | Summer at La Coquillade... he Domaine de la Coquillade has a summer rich in events in store. Visitors have a varied and refined choice of activities highlighting the excellence of this luxury residence, hôtel***** and œnotourism complex entirely dedicated to relaxation, to comfort, to gastronomy and to the discovery of the Luberon. The Jardin des Vignes has been open since mid-June. Diners are welcome every evening at the foot of the vines with an uninterrupted T tiate yourself in the art of wine at the Aureto vinyards (tasting workshops every Friday from 10 am to noon 15 € per person – on reservation). LA COQUILLADE RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX view over our vineyard and the Luberon (menu at 32€, drinks not included). Summer also sees the return of the much missed Friday piano bar evenings. They resume on 29th June for spending a relaxing moment or for dinner. La Coquillade also proposes exceptional rooms or suites for your stay, lunch or dinner at the Domaine, and the occasion to rub shoulders with the exceptional, as much at table as in their art of hospitality. The accent is placed firmly on gourmet cuisine and on the food of the day with the freshness of the season and the combination of flavors. The “Gourmet” and the “Jardin dans les Vignes”, two charming settings disclose their menus at lunch or diner. Starred Chef Christophe Renaud will introduce you to his revised version of local food at the gastronomical restaurant “Le Gourmet” (lunch menu at 35 € every day except Sunday). As always, there are the leisure activities and discoveries to be made at La Coquillade, walks in the vines and pine forest and outings on BMC bicycles. A Provence Cycling Paradise concept that guides bike lovers through the Luberon and displays the latest models in the BMC showroom. You can also rent vintage cars or ini- Le Perrotet - 84400 Gargas (near Apt) Tel.: +33(0)490 74 71 71 info@coquillade.fr - www.coquillade.fr GPS : 43° 52’48.5” N, 05° 19’00.05” E Access for wheelchairs. Car park for visitors. CAVE AURETO AOC Ventoux - AOC Luberon La Coquillade - 84400 Gargas – Tel.: +33 (0) 490 74 54 67 info@aureto.fr - www.aureto.fr Open every day from 10 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm. THE + Relais & Châteaux. Michelin-starred restaurant! communiqué Cavaillon | Landscaping – Creation, Works, and Maintenance | Jardins & Paysages du Luberon, green gusto e uses a mobile number because he spends most of his time away out in the field. With Jardins & Paysages du Luberon, Nicolas Chauvin can throw himself into his work with the same enthusiasm every day, enthusiasm that he strives to share in all of his missions. “We can and do work in every outdoor area, large or small, that people want to enhance.” This young company is already making a name for itself in the Luberon and the Alpilles; they work with talent and care and in full respect of their customers’wishes. Most of their clientele came to them after hearing about them from other satisfied customers. From their evaluation and design, to layout proposal (including the choice of plants), every park, garden, border, flower bed, rockery, and lawn they create is the result of listening and observing the customer and advising him so as to meet his expectations and avoid disap- put things into plain words and offepointment. ring solutions,”comments Nicolas Chau“Our reliability includes being able to vin and goes on to talk about the work scaping earth work, agricultural work, pruning of large hedges, bushes and trees, clearing work, mowing, planting, and turfing… Their expertise and their reactivity allow Nicolas Chauvin and his team to meet the expectations of customers who want to make the most of their open spaces without the constraints! Jardins & Paysages du Luberon also carry out original projects such as green walls of all dimensions, ideal for dressing up a wall or creating a pleasant view. Besides this, they also sell full grown, adult, ornamental olive trees whose patina and shiny leaves can contribute towards a pleasant atmosphere in open, green spaces. H itself which necessitates real material logistics and human skills besides to meet all the requirements. That’s the way it is with Jardins & Paysages du Luberon; creation, execution, landscaping (lighting, watering 19 systems, ornamental pools, fountains, etc.) and maintenance work all the year round. They also take on land- JARDINS & PAYSAGES DU LUBERON 611, ch.du Valloncourt 84300 Cavaillon Tel.: 06 87 49 66 00 nico2484@hotmail.fr communiqué Luberon | Chœur Apta Julia | Six concerts for two exceptional works hœur Apta Julia began in the Luberon, counts fifty singers from all over the region, and is directed by choir leader, Martina Niernhaussen. This year is marked by two events for the choir. They have a reputation for their intensity and quality and have chosen to present two major works. The first one is an interpretation of the Messiah by Handel, presented in its “almost complete” version as the president of the choir Michel Paris points out. He draws attention to how the mystical work with its “Incarnation”, its “Passion” and then its “Resurrection” is charged with emotion and vibration, remaining the most inspired work of an artist who depended more than anything on inspiration from his muse. The “Messiah” interpreted in Apt, Ménerbes and Gordes is an identical version to that which was played for the first time in Dublin on 13th April 1742. Then, for three other evenings in the Luberon, Chœur Apta Julia will present Carl Orff’s masterpiece in three exceptional locations. The fifty singers will be accompanied by two pia- C Chœur Apta Julia Dancers rehearsing with the choir nos, twenty percussions, three soloists and seven dancers. For this version, the choir has asked the choreographer Valérie Galeno-Delogu to present scenes of modern dance to accompany the choir, creating a new harmony between sounds, bodies, song and dance. The first “Carmina Burana” concert-show will take place in the Mines de Bruoux in Gargas and will then resonate in Gordes in the Théâtre des Terrasses, then finally in Oppède in the “Jardin de Madame”. Chœur Apta Julia has also been invited to the Templars’castle in Gréoux les Bains on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the Association des Amis de Jean Giono. This itinerary between the spiritual and the pagan will blend music and places of great historical and natural heritage. The public will enjoy the pleasure of listening to two such grandiose works in magnificent historical settings. CHŒUR APTA JULIA WILL INTERPRET HANDEL’S MESSIAH ON: Friday 13th July at 9pm: Apt Cathedral Saturday 14th July at 9pm: Eglise Saint-Luc in Ménerbes Sunday 15th July at 9pm: Théâtre des Terrasses in Gordes CHŒUR APTA JULIA WILL INTERPRET CARMINA BURANA ON: Vendredi 20th July at 9pm: Mines de Bruoux in Gargas Samedi 21st July at 9pm: Théâtre des Terrasses in Gordes Dimanche 22nd July at 9pm: Jardin de Madame in Oppede Information / Booking : Tel.: 04 90 72 04 49 - www.choeur-aptajulia.com communiqué communiqué Luberon | SPA - Sauna - Hammam | Gordes | Exhibition | Luberon Spa, a specialist for your well-being! Fashion, a common heritage 18th and 19th century costumes uberon Spa is, first and foremost, a showroom in Robion where you can find spas, balneo baths, saunas, hammams and all ranges of pool products and accessories. Luberon Spa is also a test center in Maubec where you can try out the equipment yourself. As an acknowledged authority in the Luberon and the Alpilles, Luberon Spa puts their professionalism and their experience at your service and would like you to discover their top brands spas such as Atlantis Spas with Vajda™ and Lotus Spas. They have spas and balneo baths that are entirely equipped and fit easily into all types of setting, ensuring you pleasant moments of relaxation and well-being. Luberon Spa also has saunas and infrared cabins. For the more modest budgets, the showroom has France Sauna products that give good quality and value for money. Helo and Alpha Industrie are at the top end of the range and blend stylishness with effectiveness. Also worth a look are the 100% customizable hammams. “We make to measure depending on the criteria and constraints of our customers”. There are also standard tile and acrylic cabins, all ready to install and use… Luberon Spa also deals in the world of swimming pools. They build onepiece fiberglass pools and offer a whole range of accessories such as retractable covers (above ntiques Textiles is an association formed by voluntary workers and collectors dedicated to the cause of antique textiles. During the Rencontres internationales des Plus Beaux villages that brought together numerous countries from near and far in July in Gordes, Antiques Textiles issued a challenge to the town of Gordes. A challenge that the town found quite innovative, a challenge where everything from the world of fabrics and fashion that brought Provence closer to the countries par- L A ground or inground, manual, electric, or solar) floating covers, pool cleaners, solar showers, filtering and regulating material and water treatment products. Luberon Spa has comprehensive solutions for all of your relaxation and well-being projects … LUBERON SPA SHOWROOM 19, avenue de Provence - 84440 Robion Tel.: 04 32 52 90 54 et 06 76 14 34 23 Email: contact@luberon-spa.fr Website: www.luberon-spa.fr Open from 9.30 am to 2.30 pm. The showroom and test center are open in the afternoons and on Saturday mornings by appointment. ticipating in the above event (Quebec, Italy, Spain, Romania, Japan and many others) would be put on show in an exhibition. In the rooms in Gordes castle, the visitor can learn about the evolution of fashion, about the similarities or differences between the great lacemaking countries such as Italy, Spain, Southern Belgium, and France and to be aware of these, hence the title of the exhibition, “La mode un patrimoine partagé” (Fashion, a common heritage). The aim of the exhibition is to let a varied and international public discover Provence via women’s clothes for Provencal festivities in days gone by. Loaned to the exhibition by collectors, certain delicate items were made to order and worn only for a ball or a ceremony and are unique, born of the creativity and skills of anonymous seamstresses. Due to their fragility, most of these costumes have never been shown and have slumbered peacefully for an eternity waking only for this exceptional exhibition in the sumptuous setting of the rooms in Gordes castle. LA MODE, UN PATRIMOINE PARTAGÉ 18th and 19th century costumes From 30th June to 30th September Château de Gordes 84220 Gordes Open every afternoon. Further information from the tourist information bureau: 04 90 72 02 75 LUBERON SPA TEST CENTER 710 C, chemin du Carraire - 84660 Maubec. 20 communiqué Murs | Hôtel de charme ***- Restaurant | Spirit of Provence at Le Crillon n Murs, a small village off the beaten track, Laetitia and Alexandre Deshaies receive their guests in Le Crillon, a symbolic restaurant in the Luberon where you can be sure of a peaceful and enjoyable break in their Hôtel de charme ***. It was there where we were invited by the chef, Christelle Wattecamps, and her brother, Régis Saulais, surrounded by flavors and colors. It was an unusual and delicious excursion into "Rencontres culinaires" (culinary encounters) entitled "Frugalité en Provence (Provençal thrift), "Dualité du palmipède et de l'agneau..." (duck and lamb duo), and "Complicité du homard et de la baudroie" (lobster and monkfish). The accent is placed on original recipes or adapted traditional recipes, local produce from the Alpes de Haute Provence, the Luberon, the Alpilles, the Camargue and the Mediterranean, mainly from the morning market and local producers. You can enjoy a chorizo made from Camargue bull meat, a pork steak from the Ventoux, foie gras mi-cuit, baron of lamb, lobster with grapefruit dressing, monkfish roasted with bacon, snails, or but- I galité de la Provence". Customers may request the addition of summer truffles to some of the dishes. “Charme d'antan" (old-fashioned charm), "Comptoir provençal" (Provençal counter), "Bric à brac" (this and that), "Grenier de famille" (the family attic), "Atelier d'artiste" (artist’s studio) are eight rooms with all modern conveniences, each one with a dif- tered risotto. There is also an à la carte menu. At the end of a meal, gourmets may be tempted to drift towards the local cheese board and might just give in to the beckoning of a chocolate dessert, home-made ice cream, or an original seasonal fruit dessert. At lunchtime, there is a remarkable menu of the day – starter and main course, or main course and dessert – where you have the choice of a selection of dishes resulting from the culinary experience that is "Fru- LE CRILLON ferent décor, each one telling a tale of people, of places, of things… Eight worlds staged by Laetitia and Alexandre so that you can feel at ease, appreciate the calm and discover a multitude of pleasant little details, as often or not concerning seasonal treats and a welcome card, discreetly given. THE + Shaded terrace Hôtel de charme ***- Restaurant - Logis 3 fireplaces, 3 casseroles Le Village - 84220 Murs Tel.: 04 90 72 60 31 - www.lecrillon-luberon.com Restaurant open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Sunday inclusive. Menu of the day (at noon every day except Sundays and Public Holidays, served until 1.30 pm) at 17.90 €, "Rencontres culinaires" at 26.90 €, 44 € and 58 €). Vegetarian dishes. Children’s menu. Rooms from 85 €. English and Spanish spoken. communiqué Apt | Antique Materials – Stone and wood workshops | Jean Chabaud, materials with a soul iving new life to old materials. In Apt, at Jean Chabaud Matériaux Anciens, they recognize the very essence of stone, wood, or iron when they see it. Their experienced hands then bring out the best in it. Whether they have renovation or a new house with an authentic feel to it in mind, homeowners and professionals alike will find what they are looking for both in choice and quality. On nearly 3 hectares of land are the standard items – roof tiles, flagstones, G terracotta tiles, panes of glass - as well as some truly exceptional pieces (fountains, basins, stairways, door frames, window frames, balconies, parts of frontage, columns, pillars, etc.). A multitude of architectural elements, indoor and outdoor ornaments, that have been scrupulously selected, taken to pieces, cleaned, prepared on site or in the workshop, and are now ready to be re-used in pool houses, country houses, villas, decoration for landscaped areas, etc. Chimney-lovers will appreciate the showroom where they can find Louis XIV, Louis XV and gothic elements; elements that have been patiently dismantled, renovated on site respecting the original style, technique and detail. Matériaux Jean Chabaud also has a permanent exhibition of antique and seasoned stone and terracotta paving. The essence of wood... A vast selection of monumental beams, or beams of more classic dimensions, entirely prepared, sanded, and on sale for all uses in old and new buildings. At Matériaux Anciens Jean Chabaud, they also cultivate their passion for wood surrounded by high quality items. They can also create traditional ceilings in wood and plaster made from hand-picked reclaimed wood. All types of wood, including even the most noble, can be used for conventional framing, visible beams, Provençal-style ceilings, attic space, or pool houses, and in all possible finishes. Both homeowners and building professionals are sure to find what they are looking for here. Here at Matériaux Anciens Jean Chabaud, they like to share their taste for beautiful things with their customers with due simplicity and in all their professional meticulousness. LES MATÉRIAUX ANCIENS JEAN CHABAUD Z.I. Avenue Roumanille (road to Gargas) - 84400 Apt Tel.: 04 90 74 07 61 - Fax: 04 90 74 48 15 Open from Monday to Friday from 8 am to noon and from 1.30 pm to 6 pm. Open on Saturdays from 8 am to noon. Email: jean.chabaud@wanadoo.fr www.chabaud-materiaux-anciens.com GPS : lat. 43°53'13" - long. 5°22'36" THE 21 + The Matériaux Anciens Chabaud delivery service – throughout France. Export Joucas | Encounter | Mieke Heybroek, Ulysse Plaud, life at their fingertips One is tempted to say that passion and art have forever been resolutely coupled. Originating different worlds, they chose … one, the other, the others. Here is an encounter with Miecke and Ulysse, sculptors of humanity and the soul. By Eric Morichaud hey are the balanced harmony of two solstices; one born under a black sky, heavy with consequences; the other, at that miraculous time in the far north when light brings life, the rite of spring. Ulysse and Miecke (Marion) are as frugal in their language as in their art. T Since they settled in Joucas in 2000, they have shared their world with anyone who cares to take the time, not necessarily to talk, but simply to share their work and give their own view. A cobbled street as you enter the old village, a few faces and hands that seem to emerge from the very heart of the stone, and a studio that materializes from the shade and light. “We both have our own dens,” remarks Ulysse, opening up his personal space, scattered with souvenirs … that he retires to, the door closed to discussion, if the visitor isn’t caught up in his enthusiasm. Between the two creative zones, where they withdraw to create, contemplate, or meditate is a sublime courtyard beneath a pergola, foliage protecting older works and unfinished works. Here a hand, there a leg or a torso that seems to be considering its own head. This is a workspace where the couple is fond of creating man, producing him from a bubbling crucible. Marion continues, “Creating with two brains and four hands is not always easy.” They discuss ideas, grapple with the material when the stone imposes its cracks and the wood its gnarled solidity, and struggle to create, using the strength emanating from the tree selected and cut down on a nearby hillside or in the far north. “Monumental sculpture is sometimes are real combat where we have to work with brute force rather than caressing the wood,” sighs Ulysse, vaguely. From the stone and the wood arise the multiple facets of humanity because “humanity is within us, it is what interests us, we are instinctively and definitively tied to it.” Strong words indeed. At least as strong as those describing their work various works - “la Main oubliée” (the forgotten hand), “Une Energie” (Energy force), “Ecce Homo”, “l’Incroyable perspective du temps” (the incredible perspective of time)”. All carry weight, fragility, and the misgivings of the soul … and the state of mind the couple has shared for nearly 40 years too. This is a symbol, an incredible diversity of creations shown all over the world including in religious buildings, and a real connection with their public. “A gallery? Never in your life!” declares Ulysse, pointing out the sculptures here and there in and out of the back streets and tiny squares in Joucas. This is street art; living art to share with others, with all, for neither of these two artists has ever given in to the temptation of assessed and listed art. The word “compromise” isn’t even part of their vocabulary as Marion explains calmly, not even in their work “Une seconde de liberté” (an instant of freedom); it is a life story, a testimony to their past, to their encounters, hovering between emotion and lucidity in their bond with art and the evolution of mankind. Sitting here in the silence of the stone, this is how we like to listen to Marion speak of the ceremonial tree felled in the white vastness of Scandinavia; to see Ulysse sketch a few steps from the ancestral Turkish culture to demonstrate the essence of a people and of obsidian stone; to catch a fleeting glance of complicity and discreet tenderness. Rough-hewn stone for him, opal as ethereal as it is luminous for her, two characters… both of them fascinating, both of them UFOs in their artistic heavens, both of them beautiful spirits. MIEKE HEYBROEK AND ULYSSE PLAUD’S STUDIO Le Village - 84220 Joucas – Tel.: 04 90 03 81 83 - 06 84 42 42 14 E-mail: plaud_heybroeck@yahoo.fr - www.sculpture-heybroeck-plaud.co 22 communiqué Gargas | Vinyards, soil and œnotourism | Aureto, wine values heir names are Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Cabernet-Sauvignon, and the less common Carignan, Roussanne, Clairette and Marsanne, Caladoc, Marselan, Viognier. Whether well-known or not, these are the varieties that have built the reputation of the Aureto wines and the Domaine de la Coquillade, situated at the top of Gargas. Production is atypical, a subtle blend of modernity and traditions, especially attentive of giving the best of their wine and its region whether Ventoux, PDO Luberon, or Vin de Pays. True expertise that, in the spirit of the founders of the domain, leads each and every wine lover to an approach to wine that is really quite particular. This is a place where you don’t just settle for a one-off tasting. You may wander through the vines, fol- T low a tour of the winery or attend an initiation to the variations of the vintages in all three colors. Tramontane, red, rosé or white. Vent d'Eté Events and discovery at Aureto Visits to the cellar and tasting: on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 6 pm to 7 pm (free) Guided tour, tasting workshops, sensory approach: every Friday from 10 am to noon (15 € per person). Walks along the Sentier Vigneron: unaccompanied, at any time, or with a guide every Wednesday from 10 am to noon (free). red for the Vaucluse 2011 vintage; Maestrale, Autan red (also in rosé and white blanc) PDO Ventoux 2010; Petit Miracle red for PDO Luberon 2010... all are delicate embodiments of the spirit of wine. The results of their daily labor, their understanding of the soil, and their grasp of the wine-making process were rewarded this year with a gold medal at the Concours Général Agricole de Paris (Tramontane red 2010 PDO Vaucluse), at the Concours des AOC Ventoux (Maestrale red 2010 and Autan rosé 2011); and the silver medal at the Concours des vins de la Foire d'Orange (Autan red 2010 PDO Ventoux). A selection (and others besides) that is soon to be on sale at the winery and at the online Domaine Aureto store (www.aureto-online.fr. Free-ofcharge delivery for 24 bottles and over). THE + CAVE AURETO AOC Ventoux - AOC Luberon La Coquillade - 84400 Gargas – Tel.: +33 (0) 490 74 54 67 info@aureto.fr - www.aureto.fr Open every day from 10 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm. LA COQUILLADE RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX Le Perrotet - 84400 Gargas Tel.: +33(0)490 74 71 71 info@coquillade.fr - www.coquillade.fr GPS : 43° 52’48.5” N, 05° 19’00.05” E Access for wheelchairs. Car park for visitors. While you are there discover the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Domaine de la Coquillade Relais & Châteaux. communiqué Le Thor | Table d’hôtes | La Bastide Rose, a place and a guest table to discover astide Rose stands in the middle of nowhere. Only the singing of the birds and the flow of the river Sorgue can be heard.in the background. The main frame is a boundless garden planted with trees, and…the monumental sculptures of Bernar Venet : the feeling to be at the paradise’s door; only missing the delicate scent of the food authentically prepared in the kitchen of this charming estate. There you are. Emmanuel de Menthon has been the self-taught chef for eight years, he has learned his skills by the side of the local producers and in discovering their produces as beautiful and as delicious as they look. He likes sharing his inclination for fine things and his tasty recipes with his guests in his kitchen. “I like sharing both my emotions and my experience. How good is it to be locked in a laboratory and not take advantage of this very special exchange that we can create in this beautiful space?”, the chef explains. Indeed, the kitchen is open on the B dinning-room and predicts wonderful moments of conviviality. “I learnt how to create, I kept the pleasure of constant research in taste, flavour and accuracy from my experience as a designer-engineer”. According to this man of passion, who had a close experience at Alain Passard’s know-how, “cooking” is above all to be experienced on the markets of Provence, “where his imagination starts creating”. This amateur of fresh vegetables and fish sublimates all his dishes suggested by the products of the Velleron farmers market. Capuccino of scampi as a cocktail start, caneloni of green asparagus and a case of gilt-head with a cou- lis of sweet pepper as starters, shoulder of lamb with fresh garlic cream and finally a shortbread biscuit with strawberries and lemon thyme…are examples of the current menu served in the warm atmosphere of la Bastide Rose. A place worth being discovered. 23 LA BASTIDE ROSE Table d’hôtes – Bed-and-Breakfast – Musée Pierre Salinger 99, chemin des Croupières (From the center of Le Thor, head in the direction of Avignon then Velleron via the chemin des Coudelières) - 84250 Le Thor Booking required. Tel.: 06 32 64 83 17 - 04 90 02 14 33 emmanuel@bastiderose.com - www.bastiderose.com Open every day for lunch and dinner. Lunch menus at 25 and 30 euros. Evening menus at 32 and 40 euros. communiqué Velleron | Restaurant | Chez Udo, an air of genius wafts through the kitchen few kilometers from l’Isle sur la Sorgue, as you enter the village of Velleron, Udo Philipp, a disciple of Escoffier, to set up a restaurant in a large country house. Five years ago, at an age when it would have been reasonable to go into retirement, this former German journalist, lover of the Luberon and Provence, set himself a new challenge. After having met and written about so many chefs, he decided to step over to the other side. And he’s enjoying it … After being inspired by Michelin-starred friends, and after studying with Alain Ducasse, Udo decided to present his own personal style, expressing his pleasure in every detail, in every dish. In the restaurant, either indoors beside the library or on the shaded terrace, Udo delivers a cuisine of … pure genius, emphasizing the “fusion between produce on the farmer’s market where I know each of the producers”. “Zuccini flowers stuffed with scallops and accompanied by aioli and A is exceptionally tender, the texture of the fish, the flavors of fruit and vegetables …” continues Udo who has adopted Paul Bocuse’s motto “The best sign of appreciation is ‘Goodbye, we’ll be back’”. At Udo’s restaurant, regular customers do not hesitate to drop in to savor a dish they have already tasted or to let themselves be tempted by the sort of gastronomical creation that lets an air of genius waft through the kitchen. L'AUBERGE DU MARCHÉ - CHEZ UDO tomatoes”, “cream of broad beans with slivers of dried strawberries”, “foie gras sandwich and quince”, “wild turbot with watermelon juice”, “wild bass wrapped in a fig leaf”, “chuck steak slow cooked for 72 hours”…. are just a few of his suggestions of the moment. For, depending on the market and his inclinations, Udo will prepare a new recipe – for instan- ce, a poached egg cooked for 56 minutes at a temperature of 65.5°C! And there you have an example of “slow food”. “All the customers are surprised and fascinated by the results: meat that Boulevard Fernand Maillan As you enter Velleron coming from l’Isle sur la Sorgue - Across from the farmer’s market - 84740 Velleron Tel.: 04 90 20 18 31 / 06 08 57 96 68 - www.udophilipp.com Open every evening from 7 pm. Menus from 40 to 64 euros. Lobster menu with seven courses on order at 95 euros. communiqué Luberon | Provence Financing | Financing: a tailored solution for a specific need n the offices of Provence Financement in Cavaillon, Sandrine Talbotier has been the Banque Patrimoine & Immobilier correspondant for the Vaucluse for seven years now. For over 30 years, this banking structure has specialized in the financing of real estate projects for French residents and nonresidents alike. So, for matters of real estate investment, a first acquisition, a secondary residence, a rental housing project or even for credit refinancing, Sandrine Talbotier is the ideal person to see. Professionals such as real estate agencies, notaries, architects and even bankers call on her services for their clients. Of course, private individuals can also request her expertise. Backed by the BPI, Sandrine Talbotier offers tailored solutions. After an asset diagnostic, credit arrangements are offered that take account of the assets, the age of the client along vention are the purchase or construcwith his/her specific mean and long tion of main and secondary residences, term objectives. The areas of inter- financing solutions for clients with residents (members of the European Union or not). “Every request is unique and requires a tailored response,” points out Sandrine Talbotier, who ensures that she will be by her client’s side “from the very first visit until their file is closed”. You need to be efficient, available, and adaptable in order to ensure that finance records (that are becoming more and more complex) are completed. And her clients are the first to sing the praises of Provence Financement. For Alain,“the credit consolidation solution that we were granted allowed us to get back on our feet”, Philippe gives thanks“for efficient management” in the acquisition of a rental property. I Daniele is a Swiss client who says,“Madame Talbotier very quickly had our financial worries in hand and took care of them unfailingly. She was there for us throughout the project and helped us deal with all our difficulties and all of this was done with great rapidity for the purchase of our secondary residence near Isle sur la Sorgue”. PROVENCE FINANCEMENT a property to sell and who want to buy another, and the consolidation of real estate loans and consumer cre- dit loans with collateral (thus reducing monthly installments by at least a third) and financing for non- Banque Patrimoine et Immobilier 92, avenue du Pont - 84300 Cavaillon Tel.: 04 32 50 18 06 - Fax : 04 32 50 16 47 Mobile: 06 12 24 74 44 - provence-financement@orange.fr THE 24 + You only have one contact, one who knows your project inside out communiqué Gordes | Museums | When olive oil and glass are part of the same extraordinary narrative… “Here, everything is original”, these are the words that starts the visit to this highly unusual place in Gordes where two museums as different as they are interesting come together. Behind a heavy gate is a large park with trees. On the one side is the Moulin des Bouillons and a little below it is the museum of glass and stained glass. Two museums with the same history. Let’s explore … e Moulin des Bouillons is, first and foremost, “the story of a museum that imposed itself upon its owner”. In 1958, Frédérique Duran, a master glassmaker to trade, bought a ruin in the Clos des Jeannons (in Hebrew, Jehan means “blessed by God”). That ruin was the Moulin des Bouillons. She really didn’t expect the surprises that followed. It was a location that had been occupied by the Romans from the 1st century onwards. The ground structures came to light after excavation and Monsieur Gassend (research engineer with the CNRS, archeological architect in Aix-en-Provence) rebuilt the structure of a 1st century press. Today, we can admire a 16th century press where the ram of 7 tons and 10 meters was made from a single oak and according to Cato’s instructions (249-149 BC). This find is the most prestigious of its type from the Mediterranean basin and was widely admired by the Greek archeologists who came to see it. This press followed other presses whose remains are everywhere. The site has been listed since 1982. “The way olive oil was made remained unchanged from that period until the 19th century, proof if need be that the Romans had already found the perfect L organization,” explains Carol, the guide. This mill was animal-driven, animal force crushed the olives between the stones and human force started the press screw. The various areas in the Musée du Moulin des Bouillons take the visitor on a trip back in time. St. Francis of Assisi begged for oil for the altar and for his food with a “conscience” jug. This custom continued in the Vaucluse until 1945. From dust to light, the extraordinary story of glass Frédérique Duran studied the history of glass to learn about the origin of its creation. Glass has transformed light on Earth. Founded in 1975, in the same park as above, the Musée de l'Histoire du Verre et du Vitrail gives a detailed and chronological narrative of the essential steps in the glass success story. From the Mesopotamians (4000 BC) to the 12th century huge biblical-illustration stained glass windows in cathedrals, then on to the 20th century when man invented the still, the tube that would lead to the development of the barometer, the electric light bulb, and the entire chemical industry. “In 7000 years, glass beads have become glass fiber. The television went worldwide and the whole world was revealed to mankind. Glass ceramic protects the space shuttle when it returns into the atmosphere. The photovoltaic cell gives light without pollution,” explains Marie-Thérèse, the guide. “Without the discovery of glass we would never have known such technological progress. Thanks to glass, mankind can live, invent, and work day and night,” adds Frédérique Duran. The 600 m2 museum has an exceptional collection of articles to help understand the triumph of glass through the ages and to get a grasp of its infinite resources. “Glass unites what it divides. No other material can claim to do that,” continues Frédérique Duran. The museum is 3 km from Gordes, on the road to Saint-Pantaléon. Free parking for cars and coaches. MUSÉE DU MOULIN DES BOUILLONS - MUSÉE DE L’HISTOIRE DU VERRE ET VITRAIL Route départementale 148 – road to Saint Pantaléon - 84220 Gordes – Tel.: 04 90 72 22 11 - www.musee-verre-vitrail.com Open from 1st April to 31st October from 10 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm. Closed on Tuesdays. 25 Gordes: a jewel in Luberon THE VILLAGE OF BORIES On the slopes of the Vaucluse mountains, facing the Luberon mountains, the Bories vil- lage with its sheep-pens, stone bread ovens, wine vats, threshing areas, narrow alleys and “city walls” bears witness to the numerous generations of hard working people that have inhabited this place. Since the Bories (a "borie" is a stone hut characteristic of the Apt area), can be traced back to the Bronze Age, it is about 3000 years of continuity that one contemplates, the newest huts having been built in the XVIIIth century. The French Governacing Mount Luberon, Gordes spirals upwards towards the limpid Pro- ment has classified the Bories Village vencal sky around a spectacular outcrop of rock rising from the Vau- a Historical Monument in 1977. It is cluse hills. Its cobbled streets meander among tall houses built direct- the most important group of houses ly on the rock of moun- tainsides vibrant of a thou- sand stories and of its kind in the region. legends. Gordes is further enriched by the presence of a visual arts tradition The Village, neglected for over a century had suffered the assaults of time that has inspired such painters as André Lhote, Marc Chagall, Jean Deyrol- and was disap- pearing under the overgrowth. It had also been used as a le, Victor Vasarely, Pol Mara and others. resource for cheap building materials. Thus, it was high time to restore and F While strolling through the old village cob- bled alleys you will discover its treasures : one of them is the cellars under the Palace Saint Firmin ( Historic Monument). The surrounding leave you the choice of three exceptional sites, classed as Historic Monu- ments: the Village of Bories, the Cistercian Abbey of Senanque and the Gallo-Roman Bouillons Mill. preserve it. The Village, which is a rare and fine example of spontaneous architectu- re, is well integrated to its surroundings. This is due to the use of natural raw materials, and a design using a minimum of shapes and means. It is now under protection, yet open to visitors. Organised as a museum it shows a rural habitat and exhibits a collection of objects and tools traditionally used in the area. There is also a whole documentation on Gordes' History, the Bories and the tradition of building without mortar in France and in the world. To discover the Bories Village is a unique experience. One cannot but be touched by the harmony of the horizontal and vertical lines; the balance between minerals and vege- tation, the play between shadows and light, particularly at the rising or setting sun; time best suited for a visit. Information : Ph : (33) 4.90.72.03.48 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39 Open every day from 9.00 am to sunset. Parking: Buses: 1.7 km away from the Village, Senior Citizens: the Municipality of Gordes organises a shuttle bus, free of charge. To book the bus, please Phone: (33) 4.90.72.02.08 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39 Gordes | Hans Silvester Exhibition | From the tribes of the Omo to the Provence of yesteryear ordes castle will be hosting an exhibition of Hans Sylvester’s work until 30th October. He is one of the best known photographers in the world and chose to settle in the Luberon in Lioux. He also loves the Omo valley on the borders of Ethiopia, Kenya and Sudan. In a startling contrast, he presents a series of black and white photos of the Provence of yesteryear alongside another series of very bright and colorful photos of the inhabitants of the Omo valley. “I took these photos when I arrived in Provence in the 60s. They are mainly of the Luberon and the Monts de Vaucluse. They show everyday life of the locals as much in their work as in their entertainment, a way of living that is forged by solidarity, a united community in a rude but proud region … Some of the images show things that no longer exist but do not claim to be nostalgic,” explains Hans Silvester. Between his visits to the Luberon, Hans Silvester likes to go to Africa. G “Located in the Rif valley, on the borders of Ethiopia, Kenya and Sudan, the lower Omo valley is still a lost world where fifteen or so nomad or semi-nomad tribes share a territory that it twice the size of Belgium. When I went to explore this region and the people who live there I had a scenario in mind; I wanted to seek out the origins of humanity. The ethnic groups that I encountered gave me the opportunity to show how much freedom and imagination were part of their world. Decorating one’s body with colored clay up to two or three times a day is quite a common custom. My greatest joy was to have gone to the heart of an age-old civilization that concerns all of us, being at the root of our common heritage”, continues the artist who offers, in Gordes, two passages from his life at a fifty year interval, testimony to his inspiration and his emotions. “HANS SILVESTER” EXHIBITION “Des peuples de l’Omo à la Provence d’hier” Le Château - Gordes - Until 30th October - Open every afternoon - Further information: 04 90 72 02 75 26 communiqué Joucas - Gordes | Hôtel**** - Restaurant | Imaginative fare at the Mas des Herbes Blanches s a member of Relais & Châteaux and Phoenix Hôtel, the Mas des Herbes Blanches is one of the pinnacles of reception and gastronomy in the Luberon. The magic starts to take effect as soon as you step inside. The enchantment has as much to do with the serenity of the surroundings as with the rare culinary art plied by Chef Akhara Chay, his head pastry cook Chef Willy Tourrette and a whole international brigade, all skilled in performing gustatory harmonies. A supporter of a purist cuisine that uses only the essentials, the chef associates flavors, textures, colors, and aromas, expressing in each of his recipes one, two or three essential products and no more. “I am an expert with fresh produce,” he often says, “for a dynamic, energetic cuisine in the sense that everything, from preparation to service via cooking and arranging the dishes must respect the right tempo … the one that gives pleasure to the gourmet!” A and Victoria pineapple. You can find these suggestions on the Mas des Herbes Blanches website. This is an enticement, navigating between local traditional cooking and international cuisine, issued by A la carte and set menus include “Du Jour”, “Papilles en Effervescence” with ten dishes, and “Dégustation” that reflects the passing of the seasons and that morning’s market. At the moment, on the theme of spring-summer, the entrées are based on old-fashioned varieties of tomatoes with preserved lemons, scallions from the garden, basil and parmesan, “transparence de riz”with pork and langoustine, half lobster with kenafeh, and/or stuffed vegetables. The fish dishes are surprising – steamed slivers of dory, barely cooked tuna with tandoori spices, fillet of turbot braised in champagne … The meats include the classic panroast lamb, pigeon with foie gras, and pork belly marinated in pale ale. The desserts illustrate the talent of the head pastry chef and include a variation on lemon tart, cheescake stracciatella, hazelnut dacquoise LE MAS DES HERBES BLANCHES Relais & Châteaux - Le Mas des Herbes Blanches Joucas - 84220 Gordes Open every day from April onwards Menus from 30 to 95 €. A la carte menu. Tel.: 33 (0)4 90 05 79 79 - Fax: 33 (0)4 90 05 71 96 Email: reservation@herbesblanches.com Website: www.herbesblanches.com THE apiézo’s work expresses an originality that is both aweinspiring and luminous. Pierre CARDIN and FOUQUET'S in Paris have displayed his paintings and sculptures. The artist is currently showing ‘Tuscan Doors’ (measuring 250 x 250 cm) in the Fairmont Hotel in San José, California. His work was on show in SHANGHAÏ for the World Expo 2010. Tapiézo has already won many awards and is now fortunate enough to have been elected artist of the year. Sand, steel on canvas, pigments from Roussillon - visit the extraordinary and innovative world of Tapiézo in his gallery-studio in rue Castau in Roussillon. Open 7/7 from 11 am to 6 pm. T TAPIÉZO COTATION - DROUOT & AKOUN - Paris Galerie Roussillon-en-Provence - Phone : 00 33 (0)6 14 09 46 50 www.tapiezo.com 27 Akhara Chay, based on ideas gleaned here and there along the path of exploration and culinary emotions encountered … in a life of dedication as it were! + A unique setting for all events whether personal or professional. Shuttle. Heliport. communiqué L’Isle sur la Sorgue | Antiques - Second-hand Goods – Art Galleries | The Village des Antiquaires de la Gare, History and emotion The Village des Antiquaires de la Gare in l’Isle sur la Sorgue is as much a village by the diversity you find there as by the feel of the place. No mayor, no councilors, but the atmosphere of a Provencal village is definitely there. L’Isle sur la Sorgue is without doubt the best-known place for antiques and second-hand goods. he Village des Antiquaires is installed in a former spinning mill dating from the 19th century. The building has large spaces entirely dedicated to antiques and second hand goods and there are over 100 shops and 70 merchants with very varied goods on offer. With classical items dating from the 18th century and more modern articles with design elements from the 60s and 70s, the place is a high risk zone for being irresistibly taken with items. Painted furniture, rattan furniture, furniture from shops, industrial furniture, display cabinets, every corner of the village is a tribute to the past and its treasures. The exceptional setting alone is an incitement to rummage peacefully; a tearoom-cum-restaurant suggests a gourmet pause in your day of exploration; while the amiability and expertise of the merchants will let you appreciate the quality of objects that will soon decorate your home. the president of the Fondation Modern Art, a partner of the United Nations program for the Environment. The association has taken sculptures made from trees that were burned in the Maures forest in 2003 as their symbol; it was born from Philippe Pastor’s revolt and his desire to shake up people’s consciences. Part of the sculpture sale profits and all of the money gathered at events go to the Art et Environnement association to participate in environmental programs, particularly those that concern reforestation and education programs for children that relate to these questions. Part of his work on the four seasons is being shown at the Galerie DNR, as are his burned trees, while his “bleu monochrome” series will be featured in a second exhibition in August. It will be on show until 1st September. Contemporary art a logical sequel “People do not always look for what is pretty but always for what is genuine”. Daphné Rougon quotes Charles Baudelaire when speaking of contemporary art. An art lover and art presenter, Daphné decided to open her own gallery in the village des Antiquaires de la Gare two years ago. The blend of contemporary and secondhand might seem a little out of place and yet the Galerie DNR fits quite well with no visible signs of anachronism and was followed soon afterwards by the Galerie Claude Petitjean. “Modern art is a natural sequel to traditional art.”Three exhibitions are organized each year. Set back a little from the antique dealers and yet on the “village square” so to speak, the gallery with the high ceilings is hosting the works of Philippe Pastor at the moment. The well of natural light in the place gives a feeling of reality. “Light does not cheat nor lie”. And nor do the artists that she shows. “I like to discover the artist’s method and to take part in it. I seek authenticity.” And there is plenty of authenticity in the creations by Philippe Pastor, an artist who was present at Venice Biennial in 2009. This Monacan artist is an expert with natural pigments and works on current affairs and climate changes. He is also the founder and © Photos Philippe Pastor - Monaco Modern Art The village des Antiquaires de la Gare is open on Fridays from 2 pm to 6 pm and on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays from 10 am to 7 pm. Opening can also be requested on other days. International transport is available for all destinations. LE VILLAGE DES ANTIQUAIRES DE LA GARE 2, bis avenue de l’Egalité - 84800 L’Isle sur la Sorgue – Tel.: 04 90 38 04 57 - Fax: 04 90 38 21 73 - www.levillagedesantiquairesdelagare.com levillagedesantiquaires@hotmail.com - dnr-art-galerie@hotmail.fr - www.levillagedesantiquairesdelagare.com/dnr 29 © Photos Philippe Pastor - Monaco Modern Art © Photos Philippe Pastor - Monaco Modern Art T Salon Region | Museums and Provençal Heritage and Traditions | [6] [7] [1] [2] [3] [4] [8] [9] [11] [10] [5] 1 Maison de Nostradamus - museum The museum is located in the house he lived in from 1547 until his death and where he wrote his celebrated “Prophecies”. 13, rue Nostradamus - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 56 64 31 Open from Monday to Friday from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm (call first for opening times on public holidays). Open on Saturdays and Sundays from 2 pm to 6 pm. While you’re there: See the tomb of Nostradamus in the Collégiale Saint-Laurent in Salon de Provence 2 Musée de l’Empéri 12 000 items in this museum illustrate the formation of the various armed forces and their branches, tracing their evolution from the reigns of Louis 15th and Louis 16th up to World War I. Montée André Viallat - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 44 13 09 Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9.30 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm. 5 Troglodytic dwellings 9 Zoo de La Barben Discover the small fishing port of village of Saint-Chamas and the grottos carved out in the rock higher up. See more than 500 animals and 100 different species in the heart of Provence. While you’re there: as you enter the village, don’t miss the roman bridge, one of the best preserved in the Mediterranean basin. Take the D572. The zoo is between Saint-Cannat and Pélissanne 13330 La Barben Tel.: 04 90 55 19 12 Open in June and September from 10 am to 6 pm. Open in July and August from 9.30 am to 7 pm. 6 Calès Grottos - Musée de Calès 10 Pavillon de Forbin Information from the Office de Tourisme - 13250 Saint-Chamas Tel.: 04 90 50 90 54 This is a Greek, Roman and Mediaeval site with the remains of a castle, two chapels and 58 grottos that were at one time inhabited. Tel.: 06 76 51 76 22 13113 Lamanon Open from Monday to Friday from 9 am to noon and from 1 pm to 5 pm. Open on the 1st and 3rd Sundays of the month from 2.30 pm to 5 pm. Guided tours of the site can be booked. While you’re there: While you’re there: See the plane tree that is several hundred years old in Lamanon. 7 Yew trees in the cemetery in Eyguières If you visit Eyguières don’t forget to go to the cemetery where you will find 24 sculpted yews (they are about 5-6 meters in height and 2-3 meters in circumference). 3 Musée du savon de Marseille Further details from the Office de Tourisme d’Eyguières: 04 90 59 82 44. This museum relates the remarkable story of soap in Provence, starting from the Middle Ages. 8 Château de la Barben Savonnerie Rampal Latour, 71, rue Félix Pyat - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 56 07 28 Open from Monday to Friday from 8 am to noon and from 2 pm to 5 pm. 4 Village of Alleins If you happen to pass through Alleins, you will discover its 4000 year old history, its listed monuments, its festivals and events that make Alleins a dynamic and cultural village. Guides wearing period costumes bring the past to life from the beginning to the end of your visit. Route du Château - 13330 La Barben Tel.: 04 90 55 25 41 The castle can be visited every day from 11am to 5 pm (with a break at 1 pm). Further information from the tourist information bureau: 04 90 55 15 55 30 The pavilion was built in the middle of a large expanse of landscaped park in 1670. The boxwood garden to the north and the park to the south add other points of interest to the building. 197, rue du Pavillon - 13580 La Fare les Oliviers Tel.: 04 90 42 65 13 While you’re there: Discover the ruins of the castrum towards the top of the village. Further information from the town hall: 04 90 45 46 00 11 Chapelle Saint Cyr Surrounded by greenery that shows it to its best advantage, the Chapelle Saint-Cyr is notable for its typically Romanesque architecture. Road to Berre - 13680 Lançon de Provence Information from the Office de Tourisme: 04 90 45 71 32 While you’re there: Don’t miss the ruins of the Maison des Templiers, an historic monument. communiqué Salon de Provence | Ice-cream maker | Gourmand’Ice, creator of ice-creams t Gourmand’Ice, eating an icecream is a gastronomical experience. Gourmets know exactly what they’re doing when they invade the ideally-placed terrace in the coolness of the Fontaine Moussue. Here, the ice-creams are made in the house laboratory by a taste inventor who exalts the flavors. As a confectionary and pastry cook cum chocolate maker in Salon for 30 years, Hervé Gutzwiller has put all of his expertise and enthusiasm into his creations at Gourmand’Ice. Everything is made here, not only icecreams and sorbets but also the toppings and accompaniments that go with them: coulis, chocolate sauce and hot chocolate, chocolate decorations, nut brittle, biscuits, macaroons. He is a designer on a never-ending quest for new ideas and his menu changes regularly to provide even more surprises to the ever-increasing number of regular customers. For this third season, the menu has a number of new flavors; calisson, mojito (the coolness and bite of the cocktail as a sorbet), cointreau chocolate orange, butterscotch with shards A of caramel, and rafaelo have been added to an already original palette of flavors. For the days when the weather is a little off, Gourmand’Ice now also proposes waffles with ice-cream or fruit. Gourmand’Ice is the only place in Salon where you will find coffee cream frappe; a creamy yet robust experience that reawakens your taste buds to cof- fee. For a fun effect, the “Toquets de Gourmand’Ice” have changed the presentation of ice-cream with“spaghettis” and “bonbecs” sundaes. Children young and old will enjoy their “Célébrations” with five scoops: “Snicks”, “Nutella”, “Rafaelo”, “Bounty” and “Kinder bueno”. And for a magical expeTHE + rience, do not miss Fridays and Saturdays when they have their spectacular smoking ice-cream! Original flavors, appealing presentations, and intense tastes, Hervé Gutzwiller, and his treasured employees have raised ice-cream making to an art form. Terrace and two rooms upstairs one of which was the bedroom of the poet Crousillat and is now a historic monument GOURMAND’ICE 1, place Crousillat - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 44 70 82 - gourmand.ice@gmail.com Open from Monday to Thursday from 1 pm to 10 pm and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 1 pm to midnight. Eat-in and Take-away. communiqué communiqué Salon de Provence | Restaurant | Senas | Vins de pays | A Bouquet of de Savors at the Mas du Soleil Cellier Saint-Augustin, expertise and experience pay off yet again erbs from the hills, fruit and vegetables from the market, fresh fish, and top quality meat … culinary art at the Mas du Soleil in Salon de Provence begins with the choice of produce … then they enhance the flavors. In the kitchen, Francis Robin and his son Bruno convey their passion in every one of their recipes. Now, at the beginning of summer, you will love the produce they offer in their bouquet of Provençal savors. “Crème de courge et son escalope de foie gras poêlée” (cream of squash and pan-fried foie gras), “pavé de daurade de Méditerranée grillé à la peau, petite poêlée he Cellier Saint-Augustin vineyards cover 400 hectares between the Alpilles and the Luberon. Spread out over the coteaux d’Aix en Provence, vins de pays des Alpilles, and Mediterranean wine production areas, this land allows the winegrowers to make best use of the vine plots to offer vintages with clearly defined characters. Les Lavandes is smooth and fragrant coming from H de girolles au coteaux d'Aix” (grilled slab of Mediterranean bream, pan-fried chanterelles), “filets de rougets grillés à la peau, mini ratatouille, bouquet de verdure, crème de poivrons rouges” (grilled red mullet, mini ratatouille, salad, sweet pepper cream), “filet de bœuf au beurre de truffe, croustillant de pommes de terre et sa salade d'herbes “ (filet of beef with truffle butter, crispy potato, herb salad), “déclinaison d'agneau, épaule confite au romarin, côte grillée, pied paquet, papeton d'aubergine, crème d'ail” (grilled shoulder of lamb with rosemary, “pied paquet”, aubergine papeton and garlic cream) to mention just a few. Whether you choose the à la carte menu or one of the Mas, Provence, Terroir or special Homard set menus, the Mas du Soleil is a mellow gastronomical stopover. And now that the fine days are here, the shaded patio offers a peaceful setting, far from the madding crowd … T a selection of land between Senas and Eyguières. Caillas red is aged in oak and is a concentration of terroir that had such success that a rosé was then created. It comes from the same land and made into wine in such a way as to give it a unique vanilla and spice flavor. Produced by vines planted on the peak of the Alpilles, Les Opies (matured for 2 years) is for lovers of full-bodied, fruity wines. Their everyday wine (PGI Alpilles) comes in bottles and BIBs and is also the result of their special care. The rosé is picked at night so as to ensure the freshness of the grapes then it is macerated to reveal concentrated, subtle and complex aromas. This year, yet again, their qualitative approach has won prestigious awards. They took the silver medal at the Agricultural Show in Paris for their Alpilles white wine. Their Taillade and Lavande rosés were awarded the silver and the gold respectively at the Concours des Grands Vins de France in Macon. LE MAS DU SOLEIL CELLIER SAINT-AUGUSTIN Francis and Bruno Robin Hôtel-Restaurant **** 38, chemin de Saint-Côme 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 56 06 53 - Fax: 04 90 56 21 52 Menus at 28, 33, 43, 62 and 87 euros (at lunchtime from Monday to Friday). A la carte menu. 10 rooms around an Italian-style patio, add to that a lush green garden and pool. Parking area. Avenue André-Aune (Capelette car park) 13560 SENAS Open from Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 8 pm Tel.: 04 90 59 22 02 Fax: 04 90 59 22 96 Email: contact@celliersaintaugustin.fr Website: www.celliersaintaugustin.fr THE 31 tasting, special offers all year round, + Free loyalty card Salon | A Stroll | The historic centre, at the heart of history and of life Directly above the Château de l’Empéri, surrounded by the Tour l’Horloge, the Tour du Bourg Neuf, and the tower known as the Tour “de Babylone”, the historic center of Salon de Provence is the true heart of the city. rom the Middle Ages right up until today, most of the city’s history has been written here in the area that used to be surrounded by ramparts. Nowadays, the pedestrian streets tempt you to stroll, to explore, and to enjoy the town. Right alongside the historic and cultural legacy, tradesmen and craftsmen bring life to the place; scattered here and there are small squares and paved or cobbled streets offering visitors dozens of reasons to stop. The historic center of Salon de Provence has been its beating heart from the beginning of time. Time for a stroll… sound of the bells would carry well in town. The two levels that were originally planned were finished in 1630. The third level was finished in 1664 for better sound propagation and to give the building a less massive look. On the top sits a magnificent wrought iron campanile, one of the most beautiful in the region, made by the locksmith Joseph Rolland. The clock mechanism was made by the Quintrand brothers and shows the days of the week with a planet per day; the sun for Sunday, the moon for Monday, Mars for Tuesday, Mercury for Wednesday, Jupiter for Thursday, Venus for Friday and Saturn for Saturday. The tower is made of yellow-ochre stone from Valentine and is topped by a three-bell tower with a total weight 2563 kg, forged by Daignac and Souchet. The earthquake in 1909 did not spare it and it was not repaired until 1912. During this same period, the belfry and bell were listed as Historic Monuments. The Tour de l’Horloge became listed in 1926 in the Historic Monuments Supplementary. F Château de l’Empéri The Château de L’Empéri overlooking the city is quite certainly the oldest military fortress in Provence, possibly even in Europe. Built in the 10th, 13th and 14th centuries on the Puech rock, the proud, dominant Château de l’Empéri looks out over the town. This was where the Arles archbishops preferred to live. In the days of yore and under the suzerainty of the Holy Roman Emperors (hence the name of "Empéri") the castle saw such illustrious persons as Frédéric Barberousse, King René of Anjou, and François 1st. Of the first castle, built from the 10th to 13th centuries, all that remains is the Romanesque chapel. Then, in the course of the 13th century, the archbishops rebuilt their fortress and reinforced its defenses. In the 14th century, Pierre de Cros, crowned the big tower and added the first mullion windows. Later, in the 15th century, Pierre de Foix added the large sculpted bay windows with his coat of arms above them. The fortress lost its defensive appearance at the beginning of the 16th century when Jean Ferrier built the gallery in the courtyard and the monumental fireplace in florid Gothic style. In 1585, the fortified gate that led to the courtyard was built on the orders of Grand Prior Henri d’Angoulème who was governor of Provence at the time. During the Revolution, after the death of the last archbishop, the castle became property of the town. In 1909, an earthquake damaged the building; two towers and part of the ramparts were destroyed. Since 1967, it has been home to the Musée de l’Empéri known for its French military history collection and the music school. The vaulted rooms show temporary exhibitions. Eglise Saint-Michel Tour de Bourg Neuf This tower is part of the remains of the mediaeval ramparts with several gates leading to the town. Along with the Tour Galagaspe, it was part of the third enclosing wall in Salon de Provence and surrounded the castle. The Tour or Porte du Bourg Neuf is square and gave access to the old town. It was a passageway between the old town and the suburb. Under its porch is a niche protected by a grid and containing a Madonna ready to listen to the devotions of pregnant women of the time. the main altar and its altarpiece from their convent. The Eglise Saint-Michel has superb organs that have been renovated, and that the astronaut JeanLoup Chrétien enjoyed playing. In 2000, five bells, a gift from a parishioner Adrien Roux, were set in a bell tower where they now ring. Tour de l’Horloge 1626, after the demolition of the Farreiroux gate, marked the start of the construction of the Tour de l’Horloge, to replace the faulty bell tower in the Eglise Saint-Michel. The location was chosen due to the direction the mistral blows so that the The origins of the Eglise Saint Michel remain a mystery. It was built at the foot of the castle, in the heart of the busy medieval city and could well be one of the oldest southern gothic monuments. It is an illustration of typical Provençal art features with its arched belltower. The sobriety of its sculptures tend more towards Romanesque art which explains the simplicity of its single nave (no side-aisle or ambulatory) as well as the thickness of the walls and the narrowness of the windows. Solemn and solid in appearance, the church is brightened by the luminous warmth of the stone used in its construction. The chevet is turned towards the east, as was common at the time, so as to celebrate mass facing Jerusalem and the rising sun. The tympanum above the portal evokes the Archangel Michael quelling the forces of evil, symbolized by the serpent. The church had been developed by several successive building campaigns going as far, in the 15th century, as the addition of a bell tower crowning the frontage, telling the time until the 17th century. During the Revolution, the church was used by Ursuline nuns who brought 32 Tour Galagaspe or Tour de Babylone (12th century) A vestige of the 12th century ramparts and the least known of the towers, the Tour Galagaspe, seems to almost lean against the high school canteen. It is different from the Tour de Bourg Neuf both in appearance and function. It is semi-circular and its main purpose was to watch over the land leading to the ramparts and their defenses. For many years, houses have been built into, onto, and around it. Part of it, located in the old town, can still be seen nowadays communiqué Salon | Restaurant | Le Café des Arts, an address not to be ignored ll the Café des Arts team is happy to welcome you for a new season. Whether on the terrace, in the coolness surrounding the Fontaine Moussue, in the Parisian bistro-style room, or in the restaurant, the Café des Arts is open every day of the week. So there is no excuse not to visit or go back to visit this restaurant that very quickly became indispensable in the Salon region. Sunday dinner with the family, lunch during the week, a romantic dinner or a meal with friends, so many opportunities and in such a pleasant atmosphere! Springtime is well under way and at the same time new suggestions appear on the slate. In charge of the main fireplace of the restaurant is Frédérique Le Penven. This energetic lady does not even try to disguise how much she enjoys serving fresh seasonal produce. Every day a whole fish is presented, bream, bass, swordfish, tuna… “We buy our fish from the fish market in Marseille so we’re sure of get- A ting high quality fresh fish”. The fireplace is also used to cook meat and barbecue foods that are served every day accompanied with fresh fries or baked potatoes. Should you prefer something cold, the Café des Arts also proposes the now inescapable slates of the day. These are generally Provençal or Mediterranean in inspiration and let the gourmets among you choose between land or sea produce or cheeses. Discover each week the selection of traditional dishes that conjure up good old French cooking, beef olives, pieds paquets, gardiane de taureau... “I like to suggest generous, tasty, traditional recipes”, explains Frédérique. And what would a meal be without a little sweetness to round it off? The Café des Arts suggests you satisfy your desires for something sweet with their home-made desserts. Tiramisu, panacotta, chocolate cake, and crème brulée made the old-fashioned way and not grilled with a blow torch … For children there is a pro- LE CAFÉ DES ARTS Restaurant-bistro 20, place Crousillat - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 56 00 07 – Open every day for lunch and dinner. THE communiqué Salon | Sports gear and sportswear | Sport 2000, for your holiday needs n 1600 m 2, Sport 2000 has everything necessary to fully enjoy the pleasures of summer in Provence. Sport 2000 covers all individual and team sports with a large selection of sports gear intended for outdoor sports. Walking socks, technical textiles, sleeping bags (Lafuma, Salomon, Gelert…), energy products (Overstims), inflatable and self-inflating mattresses … hikers and campers are sure to find what they’re looking for. More and more people are taking to cycling to discover the region around Salon, the Alpilles and the Luberon. Sport 2000 has a 200m2 Mondovélo corner with known favorites such as Cannondale, GT, Cube… A specialist ensures cycle maintenance for all brands and has numerous accessories in store. I As for sportswear, Sport 2000 can help you deal with high summer temperatures while looking good with 1000 m2 of fashion wear for women, men, and children. There are 70 carefully selected clothing brands such as the inevitable Adidas, Nike, Oxbow, Guess, and Esprit, chosen for their innovation, their elegant yet casual styling, and their quality. As Sport 2000 wishes to offer a vast choice to all of their customers, there is also a large area dedicated to jeans. Flip-flops, Bikernstocks, and swimming costumes complete the kit of the well-equipped holidaymaker. SPORT 2000 Av 18 juin 1940 - Quartier Roucassier 13300 Salon de Provence – Tel.: 04 42 05 98 61 Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am to 7 pm. Free parking. THE + Sale starts on 4th July 33 tein menu that they will love! Authentic food that has nothing to hide - that is the secret of success for the Café des Arts! + The extensive wine menu that simple wine lovers and connoisseurs alike will appreciate Six | Free Events | not to Miss Fête de la libération de Salon de Provence [ 22nd August ] In order to celebrate the liberation of Salon de Provence on 22 August 1945, every year on that date the town council arranges a veritable reenactment including a parade of period military vehicles and foot soldiers in the center of town. Drinks, street shows and fireworks generally follow the tribute paid to members of the local resistance and the liberating armies. Fête des Olives Vertes - Mouriès [ 3rd weekend in September ] During this weekend, paintings, arts and crafts will be on show, local produce will be tasted and sold; there will be an olive-crushing competition, a traditional costume procession, music and a prestigious Provençal parade in the streets of the village. European Heritage Days [ 3rd weekend in September] This event was created in 1984 by the ministry of culture and take place on the third weekend of September. It is the cultural event of early autumn and a good indication of the interest the general public has for history and art. The European Heritage Days are the occasion for many visitors to explore public and private buildings (churches, villas, castles … official buildings like the Palais de l’Élysée, the Sénat, ministries, town halls, but also theatres) that open their doors exceptionally on these days and show what “backstage” is like and reveal their “secret” collections. All of these monuments, to which you can add the monuments that are regularly open to the public, offer original and very diverse events for the occasion – guided tours, demonstrations of skills, concerts, plays, theme paths … Féria du cheval in Les Saintes Marie de la Mer [ from 11th to 5th July ] Salon des Antiquaires and Galerie d’Art [ from 20th to 28th October ] In the Parc Chanot in Marseille, the antique dealers who were selected by the Salon des Antiquaires du Pays d’Aix present pieces of an exceptional quality to attract the attention of visitors and potential buyers. Besides this, the presence of eminent gallery owners exhibiting a wide range of contemporary and antique paintings can only pique the curiosity of art lovers. Tel.: 06 14 34 42 44 Fête de la Vannerie [ 11th and 12 th August ] Every year, in August, the Fête de la Vannerie is held in Vallabrègues. This European festival is the ideal occasion to learn about making things (baskets, seats, etc.) using strips, rods and vegetal fibers (osier, rattan, chestnut, straw). On the agenda for these two days are weaving workshops, a mediaeval garden, processions... Around 45 basket weavers from all over the world and 35 craftsmen attend this festival. Vallabrègues town hall (30300) : 04 66 59 20 52. This will be the first Feria des Saintes Maries de la Mer and is called “Toros y Gipsys”. The event will take place on 14th and 15th July in the presence of Diego Carrasco in this region where Gypsy and Flamenco are inseparable. Bulls will, naturally, be added to the festivities in the form of bull fights (on foot and on horseback). Tel.: 04 90 49 08 92 communiqué Istres | Discovery | Spend your summer in Istres stres is a town in the Bouches duRhône department where the Camargue, the Crau, and the Mediteranean meet. It’s a very Provençal place with its picturesque squares and its historic center dating from the Middle Ages. It is also a town of contrasts, between the desert of the Crau and the town’s lush green gardens. With 5 small lakes, a water jet, a marina, and beaches, water is also a source of discovery. A town with a history, an aeronautical town, a town of festivals, Istres is well worth the visit given the creativity employed to ensure visitors enjoy some very memorable moments. The dynamic and inventive team at the tourist information bureau is just bursting with imagination and have set up an operation that they call “Un été à Istres” (summer in Istres). It’s a little like a vacation club. The operation lets you discover the town in a fun and agreeable way using the “Pass Vacances”, a bracelet that gives you entry to unusual, sporting and cultural activities. Young and old alike can find things to suit them from over a list of over 100 activities. The program the I team dreamed up is rich in both discovery potential and sensations. Notably, this year there will be trips on a 14 meter yacht on the Etang de Berre... Other things to try are hikes through the pines, from creeks to beaches, treasure hunts, storytelling visits to the Etang de l'Olivier and the historic center, the Mas en Crau, not forgetting an unusual visit to the Bambouseraie... Sporty types will appreciate swim- ming in white water in the Canal de Craponne as well as the many other nautical activities such as sailing, stand up paddle, kayak, horse-riding and poney riding for beginners … For the complete list of leisure activities and festive events this summer, see the "UN ETE A ISTRES" guide, available at the tourist information bureau (04 42 81 76 00) and on the town’s website www.istres.fr. An exhilarating music festival! The annual “Les nuits d’Istres” music festival has a rich and varied program this year. Yannick Noah, Jessye Norman, Georges Benson, and Gilberto Gil will perform in the magical setting of the Pavillon de Grignan gardens. 35 Aix-en-Provence | Museums and Provençal Heritage and Traditions | [12] [13] [1] [7] [6] [4] [5] [3] [8] [10] [9] [2] [11] 1 Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur Visit the cathedral, the cloister and the hidden treasures. 34, place des Martyrs de la Résistance - 13100 Aix-en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 23 45 65 2 Fondation Vasarely Discover 44 monumental works by Vasarely. 8 Museum d’Histoire Naturelle Fondation Vasarely - 13100 Aix-en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 20 01 09 Open from Tuesday to Sun day from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm. Founded in 1838 and located in the striking Hôtel Boyer d'Eguilles, the museum has a collection of dinosaur fossils from the Sainte-Victoire region that is unique in France. 3 Musée Granet Collections of French, Nordic, and Italian paintings from the 14th to the 18th century in addition to the splendor of the permanent collections (Granet, Ingres, donation de Cézanne à Giacometti...). In all, there are nearly 500 paintings, sculptures, and archeological items to see… Place Saint-Jean Malte - 13100 Aix-en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 58 88 32 Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm. 4 Atelier Cézanne Visit the studio of this artist from Aix. 6, rue Espariat - 13100 Aix-en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 27 91 27 Open every day from 10 am to noon and from 1 pm to 5 pm. 9 Musée du Vieil Aix Set in a magnificent 17th century town house are collections of articles illustrating traditions in and around Aix, furniture, santons, and costumes alongside paintings, screens and faïence. 17, rue Gaston de Saporta 13100 Aix-en-Provence Open every day from 1.30 pm to 5 pm. 10 La Cité du livre 9, av Paul Cézanne - 13100 Aix-en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 21 06 53 The 10 000 m2 of rooms in the Cité du Livre house all aspects of arts and culture; literature, dance, music, education. 5 The Fountains in Aix-en-Provence 3-10, rue des Alumettes 13100 Aix-en-Provence Forty public fountains or so refresh the city, lending it an air of calmness and grace. The most famous of all is no doubt the Rotonde (facing the Office de Tourisme, at the bottom of the Cours Mirabeau). 6 Musée des Tapisseries The Musée des Tapisseries is housed in the ceremonial appartments of the Palais de l'Ancien Archevêché. A rich collection of tapestries from the 17th and 18th centuries is on show. 11 Aqueduc de Roquefavour This is the biggest aqueduct in the world. 84 m high and 374 m long, it has three levels of arches and crosses the Vallée de l’Arc at Ventabren. It took 5 years to build and has supplied the city of Marseille with water for years. Further information from the Office de Tourisme in Ventabren: 04 42 28 76 47 28, place des Martyrs de la Résistance - 13100 Aix -en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 23 09 91 Open every day from 10 am to 16 pm. 7 Pavillon de Vendôme Surrounded by a French-style park, the Pavillon de Vendôme offers the setting and the interior decoration of an 18th century Aix residence to the public. 13, rue de la Molle - 13100 Aix-en-Provence Tel.: 04 42 91 88 75 Open every day from 10 am to 6 pm. 36 12 Musée Suffren and Les Amis du vieux Saint-Cannat The exhibitions are dedicated to Provençal costumes, collections of farm tools, the 1909 earthquake and Bailli de Suffren, born in 1729 in the castle that now houses the town hall and this museum (Bailli de Suffren was one of the greatest French mariners of the time). 3, avenue Pasteur - 13760 Saint-Cannat Tel.: 04 42 57 36 03 While you’re there: See the 17th and 18th century fountains, the old wash houses, and the sally-ports that are remains of the mediaeval ramparts. 13 La Tour museum Veritable symbol of Velaux, the tower that overlooks the village is all that remains of the mediaeval castle. After extensive restoration work, this 15 m high building is now a museum showing the municipal archeological collections dating from the Neolithic Period to the Renaissance. Rue de la Tour - 13880 Velaux Open on Wednesdays from 10 am to noon and on Saturdays from 2 pm to 5 pm. communiqué Coudoux | Restaurant – Carry-out - Catering | Juste Autrement, bistro and brunch diningroom that opens up onto the outdoors and onto the kitchen, a terrace with the sound of the fountain and the shade of the plane trees …It’s lunchtime and the crowd that is already here is a good sign of the reputation of the fare. The regulars tell us that it isn’t surprising because, here in the heart of the charming village of Coudoux, Sylvain Muscato and his partner Axelle treat their guests in their own special way. On the menu are good humor and bistro food done the way that few still know how to. In the kitchen, helped by his second chef, Sylvain likes working with seasonal produce fresh from the local markets on the themes of garden, local food, and the sea … somewhere between conventional and creative. Between set menus, à la carte menus, dishes of the day, and salads, discerning palates will appreciate the house burgers – traditional or with foie gras, grilled scallop kebabs, pork tournedos, salmon and tuna tartare. Dishes accompanied by home-made sides – piperade, old-fashioned fries, or even a simple lettuce salad with a fresh-herb dressing. A lunch or a dinner with simple and tasty food, prepared and served immediately, just for the sheer pleasure of eating it. Then little sweetness rounds off the meal with a choice of chocolate or fruit desserts and gourmet coffees. Juste Autrement also hosts a Japanese food evening every Thursday and on Wednesday evenings a light musical evening with Richard Lesage (bookings only). Cooking and reception according to Axelle and Sylvain, also covers a brunch every Sunday morning in spring and summer for locals and holidaymakers alike. There is a choice of table service or the buffet of sweet and savory fare (to your heart’s content, if you so choose) for all tastes, tarts, salads, pancakes, cheese, hams and salamis, eggs, sausages, bacon and lots more besides. Try it and become a member of the good food club quite simply because … A THE 37 + JUSTE AUTREMENT 5, avenue de la République (facing the town hall) 13111 Coudoux – Tel.: 04 42 52 16 48 Email booking: muscato.sylvain@yahoo.fr At lunchtime during the week: Dish of the day - Menu at 16 €. In the evening: Menus at 26 and 36 €. On Sundays, brunch from 11 am to 2 pm. Savory brunch at 16 € Buffet brunch 25 € - Unlimited buffet and savory at 35 €. Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays all day. Carry-out service: dishes of the day, burgers, fresh pasta, seasonal salads, desserts, drinks. Carry-out roasts (24 hours notice required). Home catering service Aix-en-Provence | Discovery | The majestic Rotonde fountain You cannot miss the Rotonde as you go through Aix-en-Provence. It is the emblem of the city and is situated right in the middle of town in the Place du General de Gaulle at the very busy meeting point of the main streets – the Cours Mirabeau and the roads to Avignon, Marseille, and Nice. t was built in 1860 where another fountain, known as the “Fontaine des Chevaux Marins” (built in 1697 and taken down in 1777 so as to give the Cours Mirabeau the entrance it deserved) used to stand. The “grande fontaine” as they call it in Aix is the perfect example of harmony between water and stone, white and bronze. I It was created by Mr de Tournadre, an engineer with the department of Civil Engineering. It is twelve meters in height and has three superimposed circular basins, making it the most monumental fountain in Aix. The first sculptures were chiseled by Truphème. In the center sits a bronze basin of 8 meters in diameter where water flows from the mouths of bronze masks into a stone basin decorated with bronze groups of cherubs riding swans. These were added in 1897 by Antoine Curet, the town architect. Powerful jets of water spouted by dolphins whose tails cross each other on the base supporting the basin flow into a second basin below. This basin is 32 meters in diameter and has six pairs of cast iron lions sitting placidly around the rim. At the very top of the fountain, in the center of the basin are 3 female statues that could be taken for the Three Graces (minor divinities symbolizing beauty, the arts and fertility) however they represent Agriculture and Commerce (by Chabaud, facing towards Marseille), Justice (by Ramus, facing the city center) and the Arts (by Ferrat, facing towards Avignon). It was the first fountain to have a cast iron basin. In his “Evocation du Vieil Aix”, André Bouyala d’Arnaud gives a vivid description of it. He says that “the monumental fountain takes its vengeance on the rays of the setting sun. The crouched lions spit fire and the three statues at the top stand on a blazing mass. Flames cascade into the basin and children ride red hot pokers.” Not a minute to lose – go and see it now… preferably on foot. ALICE ROY A drinking trough for sheep With the co-operation of the Archives Municipales What is surprising is that, like the older fountains, this exceptionally elegant edifice was used as a drinking trough by herds of sheep on their way towards high pasture. The municipality of Arles, capital of the sheep-rearing Crau region, paid for part of its construction and so had a say in its building and its use. The low rounded edge as we see it today was designed to allow easy access to the water. This servitude due to Arles by the town of Aix-en-Provence has existed since the 12th century. The easy access to water also allowed housewives in past centuries to draw water in large quantities. Water from the Verdon The Rotonde is perfectly aligned with the three fountains on the Cours Mirabeau. The closest one, the “fontaine des Neuf Canons” dates from 1698. The hot water fountain – today a block of concretions and moss - dates from 1667. Housewives would do their washing in this fountain although nowadays it is forbidden to do so. Finally comes the “fontaine du Roi-René” at the top of the Cours Mirabeau dating from 1823. Zola senior died nearly 20 years before it was built. Built after the three others in 1860, the Rotonde has always been supplied with water from the Verdon by the Société du Canal de Provence who also supply domestic water to the town. It is thanks to an engineer by the name of François Zola (the father of Emile), who designed the Zola dam, that the Rotonde can spout its waters so smoothly although, apparently, in the beginning this only happened on Sundays and public holidays. 38 communiqué Rognes | Cookies cakes bread and ices | Biscuiterie de Rognes, passing on age-old methods nstalled in an 18th century coaching inn, the Biscuiterie de Rognes attracts foodies and lovers of old buildings. Adeline was literally enthralled by its inimitable cachet. “I was looking for a cookie factory, a place with character, somewhere authentic. After visiting a lot of bread and cake shops with display windows that were all cold and characterless, I fell in love with this place. It was run by the Georjon family, craftsmen who really cared about their products and their location but who were on the point of retiring. The laboratory is in the former stables and the store in one of the inn’s sitting rooms. It was exactly what I was looking for!” While continuing production of a large range of Provençal cookies, the place became the nursery where Adeline could nurture new-found passion. Originally from the south but living in Lyon, Adeline moved back to Provence to be closer to her family. She decided to follow a training course in pasty making, a sub- I have changed nothing.” Our pastry cook likes to match her production to the season, and for summer her suggestions are biscottis (shortcake with hazelnuts, pistachios and apricots), lime palets, raspberry jam tarts (ideal for picnics) and fresh fruit tarts made with organic ingredients. For a little extra coolness, the Biscuiterie de Rognes works in partnership with l’Art Glacier, run by a family of three generations of ice-cream makers based in Ansouis in the Lubéron. The ices intensify the flavors of fruit and flowers without being overly sweetened and blend extremely well with tuile biscuits and I meringues. “They really are enthusiasts of traditional methods yet they are open to making new creations. Together we created a croquant ice-cream that you can only find here in my store or at the Art Glacier.” As she is also a baker, Adeline makes wholegrain bread with organic flour, French sticks, rye bread, flaxseed bread, six-cereal bread … but she prefers the good old family loaves that weigh 1 or 2 kg and that are good for a week. Her touch of originality? She uses forcing bags to decorate her farmhouse loaves with the coat of arms of Rognes. LA BISCUITERIE DE ROGNES ject that, for her, was full of sweetness and sharing. Trained to be rigorous and to lover her craft by a teacher in Lyon who had received the “meilleur ouvrier de France”award, her two watch words are simplicity and tradition. Besides the house clas- sics, she also makes croquants, navettes, croissants with pine nuts, smiley shortcake… Adeline adds her personal touch with old-fashioned cakes that have sometimes been forgotten such as “jalousies” and “conversations”. “I like to say that I make “baker’s” cakes like Paris Brests, napoleons, Saint Honoré cakes. I’m also very fond of journey cakes, cakes, ginger bread, big meringues. My cakes are all made in the old-fashioned way and THE + Maison Georjon 6, route d'Aix 13840 Rognes - Tél : 04 42 50 21 75 Website: www.la-biscuiterie-de-rognes.com Mail : labiscuiteriederognes@gmail.com Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 6 am to 1 pm and from 3.15 pm to 8 pm. the Biscuiterie de Rognes will be at the Foire d'Aix on 15th July, at the Foire de Saint Rémy on 21st, 22nd, 27th, 28th, and 29th July, and at the Foire de Valensole on 19th August communiqué La Roque d'Anthéron | Restaurant - Caterer | Remarkable Grain de Sel ll with a pinch of salt … When you sign a menu you define your culinary style. You identify your cuisine – simple, imaginative and respectful of fresh produce. This is the image that Alexandra and Fabrice Ruiz have chosen for their restaurant in La Roque d'Anthéron. Here they opt to follow the cycle of the seasons with influences from home grown, regional and sea produce and like to highlight local producers whether they bake bread, make cheeses or grow vegetables. The first sunny days are a good time This is a gourmet restaurant where to sit at a table in the calm, shady the lunchtime menu is served with terrace and contemplate the new menus. the dessert of the day and a glace of A wine with the choice of “Bistro”, “Butcher”, “Raw Beef Tartar”, “Grain de Sel burger” menus, or the specials on the slate - “Land and Sea” and “Salmon waffle”. Other dishes that cannot be ignored are the crisp vegetable wok stir-fries - “Vegetarian” and “Land and Sea”. The various menus blend aromas and textures and flavors of the moment with local meat and fish in season. A light and airy cuisine that is generally displayed on the slate, adding another dimension of pleasure – sight! The sweet delights include café gourmand, fondant au chocolat and panna cotta. The Grain de Sel, indoors or outdoors, whether you are new or a regular (as many are) is the place to come for the simple pleasure of being with friends in charming surroundings to appreciate the hospitality of the hosts and the culinary treats. Alexandra and Fabrice Ruiz and all those who work with them in the kitchen or dining room also suggest their tailored catering service either at your home or at any family or professional event. LE GRAIN DE SEL Avenue de l'Europe unie - 13640 La Roque d'Anthéron Tel.: 04 42 50 77 27 - www.restaurant-le-grain-de-sel.com Menus at 22 - 29 € A la carte menu. Land-Sea slate at 14 € at lunchtime Butcher, Bistrot menus at 11 €. Set menus from 11 to15 € Open 7 days per week lunchtime and dinner. THE 39 + Nearby parking. Room with a panoramic view for groups. Catering service. Free delivery (up to 30 km).
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