São Paulo - The Brazilian Coast
Transcription
São Paulo - The Brazilian Coast
São Paulo Stay another day São Paulo Stay another day Where to stay, eat and have fun, experiencing the best the city has to offer S ão Paulo has things to see and do that you won’t find anywhere else in the world. So if you come to the city on business, make a point of staying for at least one more day. Plan out your extra time with one of our thematic itineraries: cultural, outdoor, hip, sophisticated, family-friendly, and cheap (but great.) Or, you can also choose the neighborhood tours to find the top attractions in Vila Olímpia, Ibirapuera, Avenida Paulista, Centro, Vila Madalena... Ask your travel agent Sights, shopping, culture, nightlife, outdoor recreation, activities for children cidadedesaopaulo.com cidadedesaopaulo.com Credit for photographers: André Stéfano and Marcelo Ribeiro. SÃO PAULO IS INCREDIBLE: THE CALORIES YOU PUT ON IN ITS 12,500 RESTAURANTS, YOU SHED BY SHOPPING AT THE CITY’S 240,000 STORES AND SHOPS. SÃO PAULO, A CITY LIKE NO OTHER. CITYOFSAOPAULO.COM CALL YOUR TRAVEL AGENT. 2.Carta_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 2 AFA-10881.028- AnCompras_134x202.indd 1 12/14/09 2:50:43 PM 12/14/09 1:53:00 PM Credit for photographers: André Stéfano and Marcelo Ribeiro. 53:00 PM São Paulo at your service São Paulo attracts eleven million visitors a year, more than 60% of whom come here on business. It’s easy to understand why the city attracts so many people. It is the economic hub of Latin America, has the 10th highest GDP in the world (according to Pricewaterhouse Coopers), and hosts the 12th most international events (according to the ICCA). The biggest Brazilian and multinational companies make their headquarters here. And the city also hosts 90,000 events a year – one every six minutes – including 75% of the fairs, conferences and conventions in Brazil. But best of all, São Paulo is not just a business center. Its higher calling is culture. Taking after places like New York and London, the city is a major entertainment center, providing added incentive for businessmen and women to come here from around the world. São Paulo has all the facilities you’ll find in European capitals: the best restaurants, hotels, cinemas, theaters, museums and shopping centers. But beyond that, the city has a truly Brazilian style – gathering all elements of this country’s rich culture in one place. So when you come to close a deal, hold a meeting or attend an event, stay at least one extra day and enjoy its universe of attractions. São Paulo is at your service: make the most of it. Gilberto Kassab Mayor of São Paulo Caio Luiz de Carvalho President, SPTuris cidadedesaopaulo.com 2.Carta_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 3 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 3 12/14/09 2:50:56 PM Table of Contents Chapters 21 Welcome 05 How to Use this Guide 06 Understanding São Paulo Tailor-Made Itineraries 14 Culture 18 Downtown 22 Outdoors 26 Fine Arts 30 Trendy 34 Inexpensive 38 Sophisticated 42 With the Family 46 A Perfect Saturday 50 A Perfect Sunday 53 Pizza at Braz Mercado Municipal Essential Neighborhoods 56 Mapping out the Fun 58 Avenida Paulista, Jardins, Consolação and Higienópolis 62 Centro, Liberdade, Luz and Bela Vista 66 Ibirapuera, Moema, Vila Nova Conceição and Vila Mariana 70 Vila Madalena, Pinheiros and Butantan 74 Vila Olímpia, Itaim Bibi, Brooklin and Morumbi 78 More Sights Plan Your Stay 82 Calendar 4 São Paulo Guide Stay another day COMO USAR_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 4 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 2:35:54 PM using this guide Plan your trip Create your own agenda for an extra day in São Paulo by choosing from our two formulas: Tailor-Made Itineraries or Essential Neighborhoods Maps Thematic Day Trips The Mapping out the Fun section shows the regions covered by the Essential Neighborhoods chapter, all in the expanded city center. Each area has its own map that shows the main thoroughfares and attractions. These include ten suggested itineraries – each a separate theme or area of interest – that cover one full day each, from breakfast to the following dawn. They include restaurant suggestions that follow recommendations and reviews done by the top Brazilian guidebook Guia Quatro Rodas. Services Choose a Region In this section you choose the places you want to visit and head there at any hour of the day. The attractions are divided up by neighborhood, focusing especially on areas that have a heavy concentration of hotels and tourist attractions. The areas are divided into sections: Sights, Lodging, Food, Shopping and Nightlife. cidadedesaopaulo.com COMO USAR_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 5 All establishments mentioned appear here with their address and phone number (the area code for São Paulo is 11). Websites are only included when particularly useful. Calling in advance to verify opening and closing times, prices and events is strongly recommended. In general, businesses are open from Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; stores in malls are usually open every day, from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5 12/14/09 2:36:09 PM Understanding São Paulo Everything you need to know to enjoy the city's attractions Vale do Anhangabaú: in the heart of the city 4.Entenda SP_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 6 12/14/09 12:57:49 PM © germano luders A privileged metropolis São Paulo is everything they say it is, and more. It’s one of those cities that is so multi-faceted and can be defined in so many ways that describing it definitively becomes almost impossible. Imagine a place where you can find – co-existing in perfect harmony – internationally renowned restaurants alongside delicious street food like mortadella sandwiches and the fried turnovers called pastéis de feira. Where it is possible to have a great time touring by helicopter or riding the subway. A city whose most popular attractions include a museum dedicated to soccer and another focused solely on the Portuguese langauge. That’s São Paulo, also known for the quality of its medical services. Every year, the city – one of the world’s centers of excellence in health care – receives thousands of visitors seeking medical treatment. The city is responsible for 12,5% of the national GDP and is Brazil’s most important financial center. A worldclass business center, it hosts an event every six minutes in spaces with excellent facilities – like the Anhembi complex. On its way to achieving such exalted status, the city faced many highs and lows through its 456 years of history. Soon after it was founded by Jesuits on January 25, 1554, it nearly vanished for lack of residents. But that all changed with the growth of the coffee industry the Brazilian Southeast. To transport the beans, railways were constructed, as was the Estação da Luz, the station from which the sacks were sent to the port of Santos. Meanwhile, immigrants arriving on boats made the reverse trip to serve as a labor force in the production chain. Many ended up settling in the city, contributing to its industrialization and forming a population of a thousand and one faces and accents. It is joked that the 11 million people who live in São Paulo share a last name: “Work”. But they have another one as well: “Privilege”. Those who call the city their home have the privilege of living in the capital of culture, with 110 museums, 39 cultural centers, 260 movie theaters and 152 stages for theatrical and other shows at their disposal. And that’s without getting into the 12 500 bars, restaurants and nightclubs of the highest quality. It’s a privilege that São Paulo residents are happy to share with tourists who visit the city, be it for business or pleasure. Statistics from São Paulo Turismo, the official tourism office for Sao Paulo City (cidadedesaopaulo.com) São Paulo Guide Stay another day 7 4.Entenda SP_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 7 12/14/09 12:58:07 PM UNDERSTANDING são paulo Since 1983, São Paulo’s Tourist Information Offices (TIC's) have served as an important resource for visitors from around the world. The offices are staffed by qualified personnel with a deep knowledge of the city’s tourist attractions. Here is a list of the TIOs to be found throughout the city*. TIC PAULISTA Av. Paulista, inside Parque Mário Covas. TIC TIETÊ Terminal Rodoviário Tietê, arrival area. TIC PALÁCIO Palácio das Convenções do Anhembi. TIC AEROPORTO Terminals 1 and 2, arrivals area at Guarulhos Airport. Nine official city tours To make your visit easier, check out the tours suggested by the municipal government. Find the agencies offering packages related to these tours at spturis.com and cidadedesaopaulo.com. Green São Paulo. A trip through the city’s major parks, including Ibirapuera, Morumbi, Aclimação, Carmo and Cantareira. Glamorous São Paulo. Visit the city’s most fashionable stores in shopping centers like Shopping Cidade Jardim and commerical areas like Rua Oscar Freire. Romantic São Paulo. An itinerary of hotels and restaurants perfect for those traveling as a couple. Artistic São Paulo. Get to know Brazil’s richest art collections in museums like the Masp and the Pinacoteca. Faces of São Paulo. São Paulo is made up of more than 70 nationalities. The Memorial do Imigrante tells the story of the peoples that built the city. Religions of São Paulo. Temples of all faiths co-exist in harmony in the city. São Paulo WAY OF LIFE. To be “Paulistano” is to walk through Ibirapuera park, stop by the mall, take in a film on Saturday and eat pizza on Sunday. Healthy São Paulo. Take advantage of the city's pas, alternative medicine centers and exercise options. Family São Paulo. The city welcomes families to theme parks, cultural centers and zoos. * For more information about the TIOs, go to www.cidade desaopaulo.com 8 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 4.Entenda SP_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 8 Parque Ibirapuera: São Paulo’s main park © jair magri Find the TIC's cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/15/09 11:37:23 PM © jair magri Cultural Schedule To get up-to-date information on arts and entertainment events in the city, pick up one of the city’s main newspapers on Fridays, when they publish weekly guides. Arriving at newsstands on Saturday, Veja magazine also lists events in its Veja São Paulo supplement. Some other sites that might help: vejinha.com.br; guiasp. com.br; guiadafolha.com.br; guiadasemana.com.br; spcvb.com. br. Tickets for shows and events can be purchased at sites including ingresso.com; ingressofacil.com.br; ingressorapido.com.br; ticketmaster.com.br; cinemark.com.br. How to get there Airports. São Paulo has two airports: Congonhas and Guarulhos. Special air-conditioned buses run between the two and also from the airports to various points around the city, including the bus terminals. Information about the service is available at airportbusservice.com.br. There is also a public bus line that goes from the Tatuapé metro station to Guarulhos airport. Most Brazilian airlines sell tickets online, but purchases require the Brazilian identification number known as the CPF. Foreigners will have to make purchases at airline ticket counters and offices. AEROPORTO DE CONGONHAS Av. Washington Luís, unnumbered, tel. 5090-9000. AEROPORTO INTERNACIONAL DE SÃO PAULO (GUARULHOS) Rod. Hélio Smidt, unnumbered, tel. 2245-2945. Bus Stations. São Paulo has three: Tietê, Barra Funda e Jabaquara. All are operated by Socicam, tel. 3866-1110 (socicam. com.br). TERMINAL RODOVIÁRIO GOVERNADOR CARVALHO PINTO (TIETÊ). Located at the Tietê metro station, buses departing from here serve 1 033 cities in Brazil, as well as Uruguay, Paraguay, Argentina and Chile. Av. Cruzeiro do Sul, 1800. TERMINAL RODOVIÁRIO BARRA FUNDA. Connects the metro, suburban and long distance trains, city and interstate buses. Serves 446 cities R. Mário de Andrade, 664. TERMINAL RODOVIÁRIO JABAQUARA. At the Jabaquara metro station, serves buses heading to ten cities on São Paulo’s southern coast. R. Jequitibás, unnumbered. cidadedesaopaulo.com 4.Entenda SP_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 9 Useful telephone numbers AREA CODE 11 ATENDE (FREE TRANSPORTATION FOR DISABLED PASSENGERS) 0800-0155234 FIRE 193 POLICE 190 DEATUR (TOURIST POLICE) 3257-4475 DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE 102 AMBULANCE 192 SÃO PAULO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU 3736-0600 SÃO PAULO TURISMO 2226-0400 INTERNATIONAL CALLS Embratel: 00 + 21 + country code + area code + number Telefônica: 00 + 15 + country code + area code + number São Paulo Guide Stay another day 9 12/14/09 12:59:31 PM UNDERSTANDING são paulo Taxi directory Guarucoop (at Guarulhos Airport): 2440-7070 Rádio Táxi Vermelho e Branco: 3146-4000 Táxi Comum Aeroporto de Congonhas: 5533-6631 Táxi Comum Rodoviária Tietê: 2221-3779 How to get around By car and taxi With 6.6 million vehicles on the road, it’s not easy to get around São Paulo. If you rent a car, pay attention to the “rodízio” – or rotation – that applies in the expanded city center. One alternative is to take a taxi. There are three kinds: comum (common), especial (special) and rádio-taxis. The latter two are usually more expensive, but you can request them by phone. By bus 1,335 bus lines serve the city. Use the “Bilhete Único”, sold at SPTrans booths (in subway stations), a card that saves you money. Information is available at sptrans.com.br or by phone at 156. By train and metro. São Paulo has four metro lines. The blue, green, red and lilac lines run every day from 4:40 a.m. until midnight, and until 1 a.m. on Saturdays – except for the lilac line, which runs only until midnight. Information at metro.sp.gov.br. O . ão rm alv Te . G V © MAPAS: MARTINI o S. Be nt ua P B Ba alm ran rra ei ca B. F ras Re un tir da o La Ág ás II Br dro Pe Map of São Paulo’s metro and train lines s es ze nt ru da s C tu da s Es i a og ub M s C ba á e os Br iap el eto c nd o on N Ju zan sc tti Va e Su e ian s á zd G e Po rra nio ra az e n Fe to ia qu An ua ta -I G a ns ia nç cio th im era fá in lv p r A s ni o Cotur ca a-E Bo sc r J. . Bo Ar ria min D t e r gi Pa lhe tild or i a Gi Gu M uva e sa la d rm o Vi ha an lhe rm n ic i o Pe Ar GuV. F o rrã é Ca uap t a Ta oc m o lé -M Be ser es Br pa Co m S. . E M rm J. igu elin He el o Ita le Pa i n u J. m P a-V lista R au . M En oma lis ar g. no ta a Ita M u an Ar aqu oel a e F Ca caré cetu eio lm ba Su on za V no ia na al . od rm tim Te ul m. P M er A T EC C . io rm n za Te ntô Sou A e d 7 Jundiaí Term. Aeroporto Intern. Term. Várzea Paulista EMTU Emílio André Franco Montoro Taboão Ribas Campo Limpo Paulista Guarulhos 1 Tucuruvi Botujuru 14 Francisco Morato Parada Inglesa Zezinho Magalhães Baltazar Fidélis 13 J. S. Paulo C. C. Franco da Rocha Brasilândia Ruth Santana Cardoso Caieiras Morro Carandiru Perus Grande 6 J. Primavera Portuguesa-Tietê V. Aurora Hosp. V. J. Paulo I Jaraguá Penteado Freguesia 12 Armênia USP Leste 11 V. Clarice Sta. do Ó Tiradentes o Eng. Goulart Penha en Marina Pirituba Brás u B ta ita Ticoatira Piqueri or uitá nri a R Luz d Imp. Penha de França e t a b m n Leopoldina Am Am Ci Sa Júlio so ão ra ira al eri ão ha ba sta na aio 8 3 s Prestes vi rdo aç di ve elv ru Jo in ui o aú p co o go s pa s- a o ú pe Ca Cor Jan. Sil J. B Ba nio erez apic ul C uitSam sas ltin in ae a ira nd or a m or L lme Fu eod cília lica aba Sé J It g. do T ar ig Qm. O . A ô o t . M s Ceasa D e EMTU Pa rra D Ce úb ng A. Engra An Sta C n. M Co Pre . . ep ha l a d Franco B Ma ta R n Liberdade Sa Ge Villa-Lobos-Jaguaré V. Pacaembu S la A de Mooca Água Cid. Universitária Madalena Angélica Be ista 13 aio V. Ema Higien.- V Branca M S. Joaquim ia ulo bi Mackenzie n Sumaré Ipiranga ô Pa um V. Prudente S Paulista . r Clínicas S o Pinheiros Vergueiro V. M Consolação 4 Oratório a e Tamanduateí Hebraica-Rebouças Paraíso Lim ho eir p o ia tin Fr as S. Caetano eir 2 Cid. Jardim Far ou car a Ana Rosa Sacomã -M gad ari teus C s n Utinga . i a V. Olímpia rad O Chácara Alto do ia M no Br ra ia Pref. Saladino Sôn São M F Klabin Tr a ada pue Ipiranga Berrini EMTU u ai a V.Mariana EMTU Santos-Imigrantes Morumbi Ág spr Ibir Pref. Celso Daniel-Santo André Sta. Cruz EMTU EMTU Santo André Granja go. zeBrooklin-E a o Capuava e no Pça. da Árvore m lic Julieta L TrCampo Belo oe úb enti 5 a Mauá P Saúde M . o o as hi ro rb fo ol ro a Bo ato erv Clem Guapituba ond imp elez onc ma S. Judas S Ad ei d a G Red o L s B i Gr o A p. Vila Conceição ão amp da ann Sant Socorro PinhAlto Vist Ribeirão Pires os Cap C VilaGiov a H Aerop. Intern. Jabaquara Jurubatuba Rio Grande da Serra Bo de Congonhas EMTU 10 S. Paulo Autódromo S. Bernardo a m nha Primavera-Interlagos e i ad r Ferrazópolis Di rapo Grajaú EMTU Pi 9 Tourism by metro Turismetrô organizes guided trips to tourist attractions in São Paulo. The trips depart every Saturday and Sunday at 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. Arrive at the Sé station beforehand, or reserve in advance by calling 2958-3714. Information: spturis.com/turismetro. 10 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 4.Entenda SP_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 10 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 12:59:53 PM Eyes on the map Find your bearings and save time by locating the city’s main attractions NORTH WEST NORTH EAST EAST 2 Higienópolis Consolação Vila Madalena DOWNTOWN Luz SOUTH 4 1 2 Centro Pinheiros Jardins Liberdade EAST Butantã WEST Itaim 3 Bibi Morumbi 5 Moema SOUTH CENTRE EAST 1 Bela Vista Brooklin Vila Nova Conceição Ibirapuera Vila Olímpia es SOUTH São Paulo covers 1.5 million square kilometers and is divided into nine regions. Most of the attractions and tourist highlights are in Centro or the following zones: Centro-Sul (South Central), Oeste (West) and Sul (South). In this guide you’ll find suggestions for lodging, nightclubs, bars and shopping in the following neighborhoods: © MAPAS: MARTINI 1 Avenida Paulista, Jardins, Consolação and Higienópolis The financial and cultural center of the city. 2 Centro, Liberdade, Luz and Bela Vista The streets of these neighborhoods tell the history of São Paulo, from architecture to immigration. 3 Ibirapuera, Moema and Vila Nova Conceição Where you’ll find the city’s biggest park, as well as various museums. 4 Vila Madalena, Pinheiros and Butantã Bars and cool shops are what you’ll find in this hip area. 5 Vila Olímpia, Itaim Bibi, Brooklin and Morumbi The main region for luxury hotels and sophisticated nightlife. cidadedesaopaulo.com 4.Entenda SP_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 11 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 11 12/15/09 9:56:10 PM 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 12 © antonio gauderio Monumento às Bandeiras, one of the attractions of Parque Ibirapuera 12/14/09 1:59:30 PM Tailor-made © antonio gauderio days São Paulo has sights and activities that you won’t find anywhere else in the world. So if you come to the city on business, for a trade fair, conference or convention, why not stretch out your trip by tacking on at least one more day? You’ll see that, in just 24 hours, you can put together an unforgettable experience in Brazil’s biggest city. It might be a day dedicated to culture or to the fine arts, with stops at museums, theaters and shows. Or maybe a trip through the city center, with its historic churches and bargain-basement shopping. Nature-lovers can experience São Paulo’s parks and make time for a meal amongst the trees. The hip crowd will want to check out the city’s latest in fashion and gastronomy. And there are even great itineraries for those who come with kids, or who want to find a way to spend a perfect Saturday or Sunday in the city. Over the following pages, you’ll discover which day best fits you. 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 13 12/14/09 1:59:44 PM culture A day of © joão caldas A trip through the cinemas, theaters and museums of São Paulo reveals the best of the Brazilian arts scene Beauty and the Beast: a hit in Sao Paulo 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 14 12/14/09 1:29:49 PM Visiting São Paulo is like diving into a sea of culture. Following the examples of London and New York, São Paulo combines the best of the modern world in its arts and entertainment offerings. Museums exhibit everything from works by masters like Van Gogh to installations by cutting edge contemporary artists. On the city’s stages, you’ll find shows by Brazilian and international artists of all styles. Two hundred and sixty cinemas show everything from Hollywood blockbusters to obscure Iranian films. And that’s not including the dozens of festivals and screenings that stir the city throughout the year. s © joão caldas Before starting your day of culture, have breakfast at Benjamin Abrahão Mundo dos Pães (R. Maranhão, 220, tel. 3258-1855). It’ll be tough to choose between the endless variety of baked goods, both sweet and savory, made daily in this Higienópolis bakery. From there, head to the Museu de Arte Brasileira (R. Alagoas, 903, tel. 3662-7200). Located within the Fundação Armando Álvares Penteado, or Faap for short, the museum holds 2,500 works of Brazilian and foreign artists, including Tarsila do Amaral and Brecheret. On Tuesdays and Fridays, there’s a street fair near the Pacaembu stadium, which is close to Faap. Don’t miss the pastel (fried turnover) from the stand owned by Maria, elected best of the city in a contest put on by City Hall in 2009. From there, just get to the Museu do Futebol, located inside the stadium (Pça. Charles Miller, unnumbered, tel. 3663-3848). The museum uses audiovisual and interactive exhibits to recount the history of Bracidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 15 © fernando moares Morning Benjamin Abrahão Mundo dos Pães: an endless variety of baked goods, both sweet and savory zilian soccer. A good example: screens that face each other, showing the songs and choreographed moves of fans and thus reproducing the passion-filled battles that happen when rivals take each other on. Afterwards, head to Jardins for an unforgettable lunch at D.O.M. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 15 12/14/09 1:29:30 PM © mário rodrigues a day of culture Museu do Futebol: audiovisual exhibits that recount the history of Brazilian soccer (R. Barão de Capanema, 549, tel. 30880761). The creations of ballyhooed chef Alex Atala, who uses Brazilian ingredients with contemporary cooking techniques, has landed D.O.M. the honor of being the only Brazilian eatery among the 50 best restaurants of the world, according to Restaurant Magazine. Afternoon You can’t leave Avenida Paulista out of a day of art. Its 2.8 pedestrian-friendly kilometers have countless cultural op- 16 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 16 tions. To start with, make a stop at the Conjunto Nacional (Av. Paulista, 2 073), the building where you’ll find the gallery space called Caixa Cultural (tel. 33214400), and the gigantic Livraria Cultura (tel. 3170-4033), a bookstore carrying almost three million titles. Just a few blocks away is the Museu de Arte de São Paulo – Masp (Av. Paulista, 1578, tel. 3251-5644), the building-on-stilts designed by Lina Bo Bardi. Its absent first story is the biggest free span in Latin America. It holds works by Vincent van cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:30:29 PM Evening D.O.M. restaurant: delicious creations of ballyhooed chef Alex Atala © jair magri Anyone who appreciates the dramatic arts and understands a bit of Portuguese can find a good play at either the Ruth Escobar theater (R. dos Ingleses, 209, tel. 3289-2358) or the Abril theater (Av. Brigadeiro Luís Antônio, 411, tel. 2846-6060). If you prefer, look up what’s on tap at the Reserva Cultural cinema (Av. Paulista, 900, tel. 3287-3529). A good choice for dinner is Japanese food, one of São Paulo’s passions. One of the best spots is Jun Sakamoto (R. Lisboa, 55, tel. 3088-6019), where the chef of the same name prepares original sushis and sashimis. Before you go back to the hotel, check what’s going on at Studio SP (R. Augusta, 591, tel. 3129-7040). The nightclub virtually always has shows by excellent Brazilian or foreign artists, not to mention good DJs. © fernando moraes © mário rodrigues Gogh, Cândido Portinari and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, among others: set aside at least two hours for your visit. If there’s still time, check out the good exhibitions put together by Itaú Cultural (Av. Paulista, 149, tel. 2168-1777) or admire the architecture of the Casa das Rosas (Av. Paulista, 37, tel. 3258-6986), housed in one of the few mansions still remaining from the era of the coffee barons. Livraria Cultura: a large bookstore filled with CDs, DVDs, books and magazines cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 17 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 17 12/14/09 1:30:51 PM A day downtown Learn about the metropolis’s past by walking through the streets and avenues of Centro 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 18 © antonio milena Mercado Municipal: stained-glass windows and famous dishes 12/14/09 1:31:23 PM Millions of people pass through downtown São Paulo every day. The region has recently gone through a intense revitalization process, which includes projects like Turismo no Centro, encouraging and facilitating trips for tourists looking for history, culture, and shopping deals. Lost on a sidestreet or not sure how to get to a historic church? Look for one of the Zeladores do Centro (“Downtown Caretakers”), uniformed agents trained to assist locals and tourists. It’s possible to see much of the region on foot – but it’s also worth using the Bilhete Único, a ticket that allows access to both the subway and the bus system. © antonio milena You can’t leave São Paulo without visiting at least one of its delicious bakeries. Santa Tereza (Pça. João Mendes, 150, tel. 3101-5667), around since 1872, is the oldest in the city and is right near the Sé metro station. If you want to start the day like a typical local ask for toasted bread with butter (“pão na chapa”) and a small cup of coffee – or a “pingado”, the term for coffee with a little milk. You’ll be ready to visit the city’s ground zero, located across from the Catedral Metropolitana da Sé (Pça. da Sé, unnumbered, tel. 3107-6832). Inside the church, you’ll admire the Byzantinestyle mosaics. The guided tour allows access to the crypt housing the mortal remains of historic figures like the Jesuit priest Bartolomeu de Gusmão and the indigenous chieftain Tibiriçá. By crossing the Praça da Sé (Cathedral Square) you’ll reach the Pateo do Colegio (Pça. Pátio do Colégio, 2, tel. 31056899), the spot where the Jesuits officially founded São Paulo in 1554. That’s cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 19 © mário rodrigues Morning Igreja da Boa Morte: the historic building is open 24 hours also where you’ll find the Museu Padre Anchieta, a museum that houses a scale model depicting the earliest days of the city. Right nearby is the Igreja da Boa Morte or “Church of Good Death” (R. do Carmo, 202, tel. 3101-6889), the place São Paulo Guide Stay another day 19 12/14/09 1:31:54 PM a day downtown where slaves received a blessing before being hanged – thus explaining the name. If you don’t have time to visit the church in the morning, don’t fret: it’s open 24 hours. Afternoon © alexandre battibugli Before setting out to spend the afternoon on the city’s shopping streets, stop for lunch at Acrópoles (R. da Graça, 364, tel. 3223-4386). The Greek restaurant serves delicacies like roast mutton and moussaka (made of potatoes, beef and eggplant) at reasonable prices. You’ll welcome the savings, since you’ll find it impossible to head through the Bom Retiro neighborhood without buying anything. Rua José Paulino is famous for its agglomeration of clothing and accessory stores with tempting prices. A fifteen minute walk will take you to Rua Santa Ifigênia, full of electronics stores. If you like music, take a detour to the Praça da Rua Santa Ifigênia: a street full of electronics, games, video and photo equipment 20 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 20 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:32:23 PM República to visit the Galeria do Rock. (Rua 24 de Maio, 62). Another option is to head in the opposite direction, crossing the Viaduto Santa Ifigênia and swinging through the Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Lgo. de São Bento, unnumbered, tel. 3328-8799). From there, head down the hill toward Rua 25 de Março, the city’s traditional shopping grounds, where you’ll find an infinite choice of stores selling everything from jewelry to party goods. The Mercado Municipal (R. da Cantareira, 306) is right nearby. Admire the stained-glass windows, which recount the history of the coffee industry, and try some of the dishes the market is known for, like the pastel de bacalhau (fried codfish turnover) from the Hocca Bar, or the mortadella sandwich from the Bar do Mané. Salve Jorge: a place where great bar snacks go nicely with the well-pulled draft beer cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 21 © mario rodrigues Evening After so much pavement-pounding, stop off for happy hour at Salve Jorge (Pça. Antônio Prado, 33, loja 17, tel. 3107-0123), where great bar snacks go nicely with the well-pulled draft beer. To close out the night, check what’s on stage at the Teatro Municipal (Pça. Ramos de Azevedo, unnumbered, tel. 3397-0300): there are many free concerts during the week. An alternative is to head for Bar Brahma (Av. São João, 677, tel. 3333-0855), home to the MPB (Brazilian Popular Music) stars new and old and located on the most famous intersection in the city, the corner of Ipiranga e São João – eternalized in verses of Caetano Veloso’s famous ode to the city, “Sampa”. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 21 12/14/09 1:32:49 PM outdoors A day © guilherme tossetto eduardo barcellos São Paulo’s reputation as a concrete jungle? Undeserved. With parks like Ibirapuera and Cantareira, there’s no lack of green space in the city Parque da Cantareira: one of the largest tropical forests in any metropolitan area 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 22 12/14/09 1:34:31 PM s © eduardo barcellos If you’ve never been to São Paulo, you might think that once you get here you’ll encounter nothing but concrete in every direction. It’s true that there’s no lack of big buildings, but to say that there is a shortage of green is an exaggeration. There are more than sixty parks scattered throughout the city, including enormous natural reserves and preservation areas. To give you some idea, green space accounts for 21% of the 1.5 million square kilometers in the metropolis. Furthermore, there are numerous bars and restaurants with outdoor areas where you can have a snack or a meal close to Mother Nature. MAM, at the Parque Ibirapuera: works of art surrounded by a garden of sculptures © guilherme tossetto Morning Wear light, comfortable clothing, a cap, and comfortable footwear for this outdoor day full of walking. Your first stop is at Pé no Parque (R. Inhambu, 240, tel. 5051-3376), which serves a healthy, natural breakfast on weekends and holidays. The restaurant is just 400 meters from Gate 3 of Parque Ibirapuera (Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, unnumbered), cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 23 one of the local Paulistanos’ most beloved recreational areas. Begin exploring this 1.6 million square meter colossus at Viveiro Manequinho Lopes, a nursery where seedlings of trees and plants that will some day beautify the city streets are sprouted. After walking along the running and biking trails or having a picnic by the lake, head toward some of the other attractions the park has to São Paulo Guide Stay another day 23 12/14/09 1:35:35 PM a day outdoors offer. The obligatory stops include the Museu de Arte Moderna – MAM and the Museu Afro Brasil. Also check if you’re visiting during exhibition season at the Oca or the Bienal – which in January and July is home to the runways of São Paulo Fashion Week, the country’s top fashion event. Afternoon Museu Afro Brasil: recalling the memories of Brazil’s black population 24 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 24 forest. In addition to trails and other attractions, there’s the Mirante da Pedra Grande (or “Big Rock Lookout”), which offers a beautiful view of the city. There’s also the Horto Florestal (R. do Horto, 931, tel. 2231-8555), measuring 174 alqueires (421 hectares) criss-crossed by trails where you might spot a toucan. You can enjoy the late afternoon there, or go to the Pico do Jaraguá, at 1,135 meters the highest point within the city limits. Access is at kilometer 18 on the Rodovia Anhanguera highway. Or go to the Praça do Pôr do Sol (“Sunset Square”), where many families meet to take in the beautiful view of Vila Madalena in the city’s Zona Oeste, or western zone. © bia parreiras As Véia: tucked in the hills at Serra da Cantareira, it serves salads and hot dishes Evening Stick around Vila Madalena, one of the city’s most bohemian neighborhoods, cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:38:23 PM leo feltran © divulgação For lunch in an outdoor setting, head to the Zona Norte – the city’s North Zone – and the restaurant As Véia (Estrada de Santa Inês, 3 000, tel. 4485-4195), tucked into the hills at Serra da Cantareira. Set up in the depths of a former demolition depot, it serves a wide-ranging buffet of salads and hot dishes. Want to walk through the woods? The nearby Parque da Cantareira (R. do Horto, 1 799, tel. 2203-0115) is home to a large tropical © divulgação © leo feltran © bia parreiras for a stop at Pé de Manga (R. Arapiraca, 152, tel. 3032-6068). The restaurant has a beautiful outdoor patio where you can enjoy meals and sandwiches, or just a caipirinha. Another idea is to head to Capim Santo (Al. Min. Rocha Azevedo, 471, tel. 30688486) in Jardins, where you’ll be served traditional Brazilian dishes in a pleasant outdoor space. The Jockey Club (Av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 599, Gate 6, tel. 2161-8300) also has good outdoor restaurants, like Mercearia São Roque, Cânter, or Charlô. And, if it’s Monday, you can have fun taking in the horse races while you eat. cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 25 Pé de Manga: the restaurant has a beautiful outdoor patio São Paulo Guide Stay another day 25 12/14/09 1:38:41 PM A day of fine arts Elegant architecture, museums full of new twists, and wonderful exhibitions will delight art lovers 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 26 © bia parreiras Memorial da América Latina: the complex houses works from Brazilian and Latin American artists 12/15/09 9:28:55 PM São Paulo does not lack for architectural beauty. From the mansions of Higienópolis to the Ponte Estaiada Octávio Frias de Oliveira in Brooklin, not to mention the restored buildings of the Luz area, the city is full of interesting structures. Birthplace of early 20th century modernism and hotbed for artists, São Paulo is a city in constant movement, especially when the subject is art. Every year brings new museums and galleries, while new buildings mix with traditional architecture. Even train stations like Luz are home to innovations, like the brand new Museu da Língua Portuguesa, the Portuguese Language Museum. s © bia parreiras To start the day, choose one of special breakfast combos at the Café Pelé Arena (R. 15 de Novembro, 194, tel. 31019096), like the sandwich on a roll with fruit, coffee and juice. While you’re eating, admire the photos of the King that adorn the walls, and understand why soccer and art have everything to do with each other. From there, head to the Estação da Luz train station, taking in the beautiful buildings of Centro. Be sure to cast a glance up to see the construction details missed by too many passers-by . The same building that houses the Estação da Luz is also home to the Museu da Língua Portuguesa (Portuguese Language Museum, Pça. da Luz, unnumbered, tel. 3326-0775), one of the most popular attractions in the city. You can spend hours learning about the history of the language or playing in the Beco das Palavras, an interactive hall that allows visitors to create words and get to know their origins and meanings. Just across cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 27 © fernando moraes Morning Café Pelé: photos of Pelé, the king of soccer, adorn the walls the street is the Pinacoteca do Estado art museum (Pça. da Luz, unnumbered, tel. 3324-1000). The building designed by the architect Ramos de Azevedo (who was also responsible for the Mercado Municipal and the Teatro Municipal) was transformed into a museum with a 5,000-work collection – including 12 sculptures by French artist Auguste São Paulo Guide Stay another day 27 12/14/09 1:39:47 PM © marcelo de andrade a day of fine arts Pinacoteca: the museum has a nice restaurant with a view of the park Rodin, installed in an atrium filled with natural light. Have lunch right there in the Café Pinacoteca, which offers a view of the city’s oldest park, the Parque da Luz. Choose among the dishes named after famous artists. Afternoon Near the Pinacoteca is the Museu de Arte Sacra (Av. Tiradentes, 676, tel. 3326-1373), where you’ll find more than one thousand works on display – among them, the second-biggest collection of candelabrums in the world. On the way out, stop by the Vila dos 28 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 28 Ingleses (R. Mauá), an area protected by its landmark status: the English-style houses that housed the laborers who built the train stations have been left intact. Another option is to take the metro at Estação Tiradentes and head to Barra Funda and the Memorial da América Latina (Av. Auro Soares de Moura Andrade, 644, tel. 3823-4600). Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the complex houses one of São Paulo’s icons: the hand statue, from which flows a trickle of blood in the shape of Latin America. Check their calendar to see if there are concerts or exhibitions scheduled. cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:40:25 PM © bia parreiras Evening Museu da Língua Portuguesa: one of the most visited attractions in town y e t t. t a a y e e, e r r If it’s a concert night at the Sala São Paulo (Pça. Júlio Prestes, unnumbered, 3223-3966), don’t miss out: it’s time to head back downtown. Housed in the Estação Júlio Prestes, the hall has become the most important temple of erudite music in the city for both its beauty and its impeccable acoustics. For those who want to dine in the company of artwork, the choice is clear: the Vecchio Torino restaurant (R. Tavares Cabral, 119, tel. 3816-0592). As you’re tasting the boneless partridge with truffle risotto, you’re also appreciating original works from Alfredo Volpi and Lasar Segall, as well as a perfect replica of a Gustav Klint. If you still have the strength to take in one more dose of art, the Casa de Francisca (R. José Maria Lisboa, 190, tel. 3052-0547) puts on popular music shows on an intimate stage. © divulgação Teatro Municipal: a beautiful building located downtown cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 29 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 29 12/14/09 1:40:43 PM A trendyday © flávio veloso In neighborhoods like Vila Madalena and Jardins, you’ll come into contact with the latest in fashion, entertainment and pop culture Instituto Tomie Otake: an original building of interesting shapes 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 30 12/14/09 1:41:33 PM Like the great cities it takes after, such as New York, London and Paris, São Paulo is synonymous with innovation, trendiness and style. Whether it’s in fashion, food or culture, this city sets the course for new movements and conventions in Brazil. Neighborhoods like Vila Madalena, Jardins and the revitalized area around Rua Augusta are poles of innovation that attract Brazilian and foreign tourists. This next tour features stores, restaurants, bars and nightclubs that will make you feel like you’re at the center of the world and completely in tune with the latest trends. © flávio veloso For breakfast with a Parisian touch, go to the Pain de France bakery (R. Cônego Eugênio Leite, 1156, tel. 3812-2649), famed for its delicious chocolate éclairs and almond croissants. From there, head down to Vila Madalena and leisurely stroll through streets like Harmonia, Aspicuelta, Fidalga and Wisard. You’ll come across dozens of fashionable stores, young artists’ ateliers, showrooms displaying the work of independent fashion designers, and much more. It’ll be tough to escape without a few shopping bags in hand. Afterwards, head for the Instituto Tomie Ohtake (Av. Brig. Faria Lima, 201, tel. 2245-1900), a truly original building of interesting shapes and pink and black windows. In addition to checking out the excellent exhibitions that are on display, you can take advantage of the institute’s pleasant restaurant. Afternoon If you’d prefer a change of setting, another good choice for lunch is the cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 31 © ricardo benicchio Morning Ritz: a New York-style diner Ritz (Al. Franca, 1088, 3062-5830), in Jardins. The diner attracts a hip crowd that stops by for a sandwich or one of the daily specials posted on a chalkboard on the wall. Also in Jardins is São Paulo Guide Stay another day 31 12/14/09 1:41:59 PM a trendy day Evening After the film gets out, a good choice for dinner is the much-hyped Spot (Al. Ministro Rocha Azevedo, 72, tel. 3284-6131), known for its famous clientele, its glass walls, its sophisticated dishes and its New York-style atmosphere. Another alternative is Skye (Av. Brig. Luís Antônio, 4700, tel. 3055- © fernando moraes the Galeria Ouro Fino (R. Augusta, 2690, tel. 3082-7860), an obligatory stop for anyone who wants to get up to speed on what’s new – and what’s alternative – in fashion and electronic music. The gallery has 110 stores – from good second-hand shops to cutting-edge names in Brazilian fashion. When you leave, don’t miss your chance to stop at Pão de Queijo (R. Haddock Lobo, 1408, tel. 3088-3087), where every 15 minutes, a fresh batch of piping-hot Brazilian cheesebread comes out of the oven. It's your chance to relax a little and enjoy a Brazilian delicacy. Before the afternoon ends, check what’s playing at the area’s main cinemas. Whether it’s CineSesc (R. Augusta, 2075, tel. 3087-0500), HSBC Belas Artes (R. da Consolação, 2423, tel. 3258-4092) or Reserva Cultural (Av. Paulista, 900, tel. 3287-3529), it’s easy to find films outside the mainstream, including prizewinning titles from international film festivals, most of them with subtitles. © fernando moraes Pão de Queijo, on Rua Haddock Lobo: Brazilian cheesebread 32 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 32 © mario rodrigues Spot: the restaurant is known for its famous dishes and glass walls cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:42:33 PM © fernando moraes © mario rodrigues © fernando moraes Skye Bar: good drinks and one of the best views of Parque Ibirapuera 4702), the penthouse bar of the hot hotel Unique, which has a privileged view of Parque Ibirapuera. If what you have in mind is to finish off the evening dancing to the sound of the latest trends in rock or pop, head to Barra Funda, and the new Alley Club (R. Barra Funcidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 33 da, 1066, tel. 3666-0611) and CB (R. Brigadeiro Galvão, 871, tel. 3666-8971), which live up to the standards of the international club circuit. Nearby, in Água Branca, is another hot nightspot, the Neu Club (R. Dona Germaine Burchard, 421). São Paulo Guide Stay another day 33 12/14/09 1:42:46 PM An inexpensive day Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil: great free exhibitions 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 34 12/14/09 1:45:03 PM © daniela toviansky São Paulo also welcomes those who would rather not spend a lot. Free shows and bargain shopping can make tourists very happy e © bia parreiras Anyone who thinks they need to spend a lot of money to have fun in São Paulo is mistaken. Cultural centers, workshops and theaters throughout the city often present exhibitions, plays and shows for free or for very reasonable prices. There’s no lack of bakeries and snack bars selling good, cheap food. And that’s before you get to Rua 25 de Março, famous for its great finds at modest prices. Furthermore, it’s not necessary to take taxis or rent a car: the metro gets you to many attractions in Centro and along Avenida Paulista. Remember to pick up your “Bilhete Único” as well, so you can get around the city easily by bus. Café do Pateo: homemade cakes, colonial tables and a European-style garden © daniela toviansky Morning Start off your tour at the Pateo do Colégio (Pça. Pátio do Colégio, 2, tel. 3105-6899), the building where the Jesuits founded São Paulo. Today, it houses the charming Café do Pateo. With a European-style garden, colonial tables and chairs and a rammed earth wall (remniscient of the original buildcidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 35 ing), the café serves homemade cakes and snacks at good prices. Afterwards, head to the Catedral da Sé (Pça. da Sé, unnumbered, tel. 3107-6832) and check out the Italian organ with over ten thousand pipes inside. A few meters away, there’s the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (R. Álvares Penteado, 112, tel. 3113-3651), which usually has great, free São Paulo Guide Stay another day 35 12/14/09 1:45:49 PM © alexandre battibugli an INEXPENSIVE day Rua 25 de Março: a street full of bargains where you can pick up some souvenirs 36 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 36 Afternoon When hunger pains hit, take the metro from Estação São Bento to Estação Paraíso. Just a few blocks from there you’ll find the Middle Eastern restaurant Tenda do Nilo (R. Cel. Oscar Porto, 638, tel. 3885-0460). The vegetable esfiha made by sisters Olinda and Xmune is among the best in the city. Using your Bilhete Único, you can grab a bus and in just a few minutes arrive at the Museu Lasar Segall (R. Berta, 111, tel. 5574-7322), where at one point the Lithuanian (and naturalized Brazilian) painter lived. It contains 3,000 works by the artist, who was one of those responsible for bringing modern art to cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:46:19 PM divulgação exhibitions. Beyond that, the interior of the building is a good photo opportunity. Another building connected to the city’s financial past is the Edifício Altino Arantes (R. João Brícola, 24, tel. 3249-7466). Better known as the Banespa building, it was the home to the defunct bank and is one of the city’s postcard images. On weekdays, there’s no charge to climb to the top of the tower and admire a really beautiful view of São Paulo. Before leaving Centro, head through Rua 25 de março, a street full of bargain stores. It’s the ideal place to pick up some souvenirs for family and friends without feeling a financial pinch. After the sun goes down, it becomes even easier to take advantage of the city’s cheapest cultural offerings. Both the Centro Cultural São Paulo (R. Vergueiro, 1000, tel. 3397-4002) and the Teatro do Sesi (Av. Paulista, 1313, tels. 3146-7405 e 3146-7406) have a varied lineup, with theater and concerts priced for the masses. Another recommendation is to check out what is going on at the various Sesc units (www.sescsp.org.br), which also put on shows and exhibitions that are free or reasonably priced. The most frequented are the ones at Paulista (Av. Paulista, 119, tel. 3179-3700), cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 37 Vila Mariana (R. Pelotas, 141, tel. 50803000) and Pompeia (R. Clélia, 93, tel. 3871-7700). To close out the night, choose among the varied, always reasonably-priced Italian cantinas in the city. At the Innominato Osteria (R. Joinville, 56, tel. 5571-9839), the dishes always serve two. They have creative pasta dishes like mezzaluna di bufala with paprika and mushroom sauce. Tenda do Nilo: the Middle Eastern restaurant has traditional and inexpensive dishes like fatte © mario rodrigues Evening © divulgação © alexandre battibugli Brazil. On the way out, admire some of the modernist houses landmarked by the government. If you want to get a quick snack, it’s just a ten minute walk to Rancho da Empada (R. Sena Madureira, 557, tel. 5579-5330) and choose among two dozen versions of the namesake savory pastries. Museu Lasar Segall: more than 3,000 works from the artist São Paulo Guide Stay another day 37 12/14/09 1:46:37 PM A sophisticated day © gustavo lourenção Today, São Paulo is the center of luxury consumption in Brazil, with shops from international designer labels and outposts of famed nightclubs Baretto: for an intimate nightcap accompanied by the sounds of jazz 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 38 12/14/09 1:47:04 PM d Being a city of luxury is yet another role played by versatile São Paulo. It’s an obligatory stop for high society visiting from other parts of Brazil to shop for international designer labels in the area around Nações Unidas and Brigadeiro Faria Lima Avenues, and also in Jardins. This sophisticated itinerary is ideal for anyone with a credit card with no preset limit. It includes a flight with panoramic city views, lots of shopping and meals in the most elegant restaurants of the city. All this, and then partying away the night in clubs consecrated in Ibiza and New York and packed every day of the week. s © leo feltran Daslu: 20,000 square meters of pure luxury and products from various famous brands © gustavo lourenção Morning No better way to start your day in style than breakfast at a five-star hotel. At Sol & Sombra, a restaurant at the Hilton Morumbi (Av. das Nações Unidas, 12901, tel. 2845-0000), you can choose among more than 400 items, including low-fat, high-energy, high-fiber and gourmet options. The hotel is close to one of the newest cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 39 temples of luxury consumption, Shopping Cidade Jardim (Av. Magalhães de Castro, 12000, tel. 3552-1000). Opened in 2008, the mall features designer labels like Hermès and Giorgio Armani. On the other side of Marginal Pinheiros is Daslu (Av. Roque Petroni Jr., 1089, tel. 4003-4132), with its 20,000 square meters of pure luxury and products from brands like São Paulo Guide Stay another day 39 12/14/09 1:47:25 PM a Sophisticated day Prada and Valentino. Another elegant mall is the Shopping Vila Olímpia (Rua Olimpíadas, 360, tel. 3047-6001), featuring brands like L’Occitane and H. Stern. Right nearby, the Itaim Bibi neighborhood is densely settled with some of most celebrated restaurants in the city. One example is La Mar (R. Tabapuã, 1410, tel. 3073-1213), under the command of the Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, specializing in ceviche – pieces of raw fish marinated in lime. Afternoon If the sun is out, you can begin your afternoon with an air tour. At Aero- porto de Congonhas (Av. Washington Luís, unnumbered, tel. 5090-9000), you can schedule a helicopter trip; at the Aeroclube de São Paulo (Av. Olavo Fontoura, 650, Campo de Marte, tel. 2221-9100), tours are in twinengined planes. Alternatively, head directly from lunch to Shopping Iguatemi (Av. Brig. Faria Lima, 2232, tel. 3816-6116), the city’s oldest shopping mall – and one of the most visited. It’s also worth walking the sidewalks of Oscar Freire Street, where you’ll feel like you’re on Fifth Avenue with the dozens of coveted designer labels. The area also has some of the most elegant cafes in the city, among them Santo © evelson de freitas Santo Grão: serving coffee from various parts of the world 40 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 40 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:47:53 PM © mario rodrigues intimate nightcap accompanied by the sounds of jazz, just switch rooms and go to Baretto. If you’re itching to dance the night away, one of the most popular addresses is the Brazilian outpost of the New York club Pink Elephant (R. Gumercindo Saraiva, 289, tel. 2769-2003), always packed with the rich and famous. If you can’t get in there, head to Pacha (R. Mergenthaler, 829, 2189-3700), which features some of the best electronic music DJs in the world. Spa Elements: relax with hydration treatments and aromatic bath oils Grão (R. Oscar Freire, 413, tel. 3082-9969), serving coffee from various parts of the world prepared by the best baristas in town. Before heading out for the evening, there’s nothing like re-energizing in elegance. At Spa Elements, located in the hotel Tivoli Mofarrej (Al. Santos, tel. 3146-5900), relax mind and body with hydration treatments, massagens and aromatic bath oils. Some may prefer to spend their entire evening in just one spot. If that’s the case, head to the hotel Fasano (R. Vitório Fasano, 88, tel. 3896-4000). Start in the restaurant of the same name, which specializes in Italian cuisine and was considered the best of the city by Guia Brasil 2010. For an cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 41 © mario rodrigues © evelson de freitas Evening Pink Elephant: the Brazilian outpost of the New York club São Paulo Guide Stay another day 41 12/14/09 1:48:12 PM A day with the family Zoológico de São Paulo: for children who love animals 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 42 12/14/09 1:48:34 PM © renato ferreira Anyone traveling with children will find fun and interactive activities for them It’s worth bringing the kids when you come to São Paulo: they’ll discover fun, educational and interactive activities throughout the city. Amusement parks full of radical rides, interactive museums capable of stimulating all the senses, direct contact with animals at the Zoológico or at the Instituto Butantan: it won’t be difficult to find things to do with the little ones. And the best part of it all is that the kids will have fun while they’re also getting lessons in biology, geography, physics and history. After this day with the family, your children will never let you take another business trip alone. y © renato ferreira Keeping up with the kids for an entire day is going to require energy. To prepare yourself for the marathon, have a hearty breakfast at Galeria dos Pães (R. Estados Unidos, 1645, tel. 30645900). On the second floor, a combination bakery and market, there’s a buffet-style breakfast with fresh breads, cold cuts and juice. From there, head to the Instituto Butantan (Av. Vital Brasil, 1500, tel. 3726-7222), where children can learn everything about snakes, scorpions and spiders. At the Museu Biológico, there are 85,000 poisonous animals. The Museu de Microbiologia will show the little ones things which cannot be seen by the naked eye, while the Museu Histórico tells the history of the institute, responsible for the production of 80% of the serums and vaccines used in Brazil. Afternoon If your children liked the first field trip of the day, they’ll love the Chácara Santa cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 43 © divulgação Morning Galeria dos Pães: a buffet-style breakfast with fresh breads, fruits and juice São Paulo Guide Stay another day 43 12/14/09 1:48:54 PM © divulgaçnao a day with the family Cecília (R. Ferreira de Araújo, 601, tel. 3034-6251). The restaurant has more than 600 square meters of trails through the trees that surround a lake full of fish and turtles – all this in the heart of the Pinheiros neighborhood. After lunch, the next step will depend on the gang’s preferences. For those in search of an adrenaline rush, the next stop is Playcenter (R. José Gomes Falcão, 20, tel. 2244-7529), on Marginal Tietê. The traditional park has dozens of attractions, including roller coasters and vertical drops. If the kids prefer a calmer activity, 44 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 44 Instituto Butantan: snakes, scorpions and spiders © alexandre battibugli Catavento Cultural: biological topics and journeys through history cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:49:18 PM ters. In the latter, you head through in a car – your own or one you rent there – to get a close-up look at the animals that wander the grounds freely. Once a month the Zoológico opens at night for guided visits, so visitors can see the nocturnal animals who tend to stay hidden during the day. Evening After such a full day, the kids will most likely be worn out and sleepy. Before sending everyone to bed, you might make a stop at Applebee’s (Av. Roque Petroni Jr., 1089, Shopping Morumbi, ground floor, tel. 5181-1565). In this American diner-restaurant combo, tourists will feel at home. There are lots of appetizer options, as well as specially-created kids’ menus. © divulgação choose Catavento Cultural (Pq. D. Pedro II, tel. 3315-0051). Opened in 2009 in the Palácio das Indústrias, the interactive museum combines space oddities, biological topics, physics principles and journeys through geography and history, all presented with originality. Another pleasant outing is a visit to the Aquário de São Paulo (Rua Huet Bacelar, 407, tel. 2273-5500). With more than 200 species, it’s the biggest aquarium in Brazil. And those who can’t get enough of animals will love a visit to the Zoológico de São Paulo (Av. Miguel Estéfano, 4241, tel. 5073-0811) or the Zoo Safári (Av. do Cursino, 6338, tel. 2336-2131). The former, opened in 1957, has a classical zoo format, with more than 3,200 species spread out amidst an area of 824 529 square me- © alexandre battibugli Chácara Santa Cecília: the restaurant has trails through the trees that surround a lake full of turtles cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 45 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 45 12/14/09 1:49:34 PM A perfect Saturday Praça Benedito Calixto: antiques fair with vinyl records and decorative itens 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 46 12/15/09 9:35:11 PM © bia parreiras For those who can spend Saturday in the city, here’s a suggestion: take advantage of antiques fairs, take extended walks and enjoy the city’s nightlife y Forget the rat race you’ve witnessed in the city streets from Monday through Friday. On weekends, the frenetic pace of São Paulo cedes to a more relaxed atmosphere, and the day’s plans can be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Forget about waking up early: the idea here is to take long walks, appreciate the wares at antiques fairs or have a beer in one of the many neighborhood bars in the city. After that, it’s just a matter of choosing a nightspot and dancing until dawn. After a Saturday like that, you’d be hard-pressed to head home with the image of a city that lives solely to work... For a perfect Saturday, make like a local: wake up late and have a leisurely breakfast – Pain et Chocolat (R. Canário, 1301, tel. 5094-0550), in Moema, is a good choice. The extensive buffet of breads, cold cuts, fruit and sweets is an irresistible invitation to have a long, lazy meal. To continue with the commitment-free attitude, head to Praça Benedito Calixto, in Pinheiros, and get lost in its antiques fair, which has the feel of a flea market. There are vinyl records, decorative items and old objects for all tastes. And that’s not including the stores and stands nearby that sell fashionable clothing and accessories. © bia parreiras Afternoon When you get hungry, there are stands around the square that sell everything from fried pastéis to bean soup. If you’d prefer to sit down and while away the time, head into the Consulado Mineiro (Pça. Benedito cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 47 © mario rodrigues Morning Pain et Chocolat: the extensive buffet of breads, cold cuts, fruit and sweets is an irresistible invitation to have a long, lazy meal Calixto, 74, 3064-3882) and try the best of the cuisine from Minas Gerais state. To accompany your rice balls or fried cassava, order a cold beer or one of the 80 kinds of cachaça on the menu. If your plans are to keep São Paulo Guide Stay another day 47 12/14/09 1:50:22 PM © mario rodrigues a perfect saturday the drinking and conversation going, you’re in the right place: nearby, Vila Madalena has some of the best bars in São Paulo. For beer lovers, Rua Aspicuelta has two perfect stops: Anhanguera (R. Aspicuelta, 595, tel. 3031-2888) specializes in artisanal brews made throughout Brazil. Fans of European beer can cross the street to Melograno (R. Aspicuelta, 436, tel. 3031-2921), the bar with the greatest beer selection of the city. For a change of pace, visit Livraria da Vila (R. Fradique Coutinho, 915, tel. 3814-5811), where you can find lots of Brazilian and imported books. © bia parreiras Sub Astor: the bar has a Prohibition-era feel and a sophisticated atmosphere 48 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 48 Consulado Mineiro: the best of the cuisine from Minas Gerais state and 80 kinds of cachaça on the menu cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:50:51 PM Before spending the night in one of the city’s dozens of nightclubs, stop for a sandwich at PJ Clarke’s (R. Dr. Mário Ferraz, 568, tel. 3078-2965), home to the best hamburger in the city according to Guia Brasil 2010. Another option is the Pita-Kebab Bar (R. Francisco Leitão, 282, tel. 3774-1790), a pleasant restaurant specializing in Turkish grilled meats rolled up in pita bread. After dinner, go to the Bar Secreto (R. Álvaro Anes, 97, no telephone), which became famous after Madonna visited last year. If the hostess doesn’t let you in, don’t panic: Sonique (R. Bela Cintra, 461, tel. 2628-8707) has the same sophisticated bar-nighclub feeling. It’s in the area known as Baixo Augusta, one of the hottest areas of the city filled with bars and nightclubs. São Paulo natives love to wander around there hopping from bar to bar. If your plans are to dance until the sun comes up, Clash Club (R. Barra Funda, 969, tel. 3661-1500) is a good option: the club usually brings in the hottest DJs. Those who prefer elaborate cocktails and a more sophisticated atmosphere should visit Sub Astor (R. Delfina, 163, tel. 3815-1364). In the basement of Astor, the bar has a Prohibition-era feel remniscent of the speakeasies in Al Capone’s Chicago. Clash Club: the club usually brings in the hottest DJs of the electronic scene © divulgação © mario rodrigues Evening cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 49 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 49 12/14/09 1:51:12 PM A perfect Sunday The day of rest for the locals is a good time to try out a few different stops, including a mass featuring Gregorian chants and a shopping trip to Liberdade © guilherme tosetto Viaduto do Chá: on Sundays, the streets of Centro are empty and calm 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 50 12/15/09 9:19:54 PM Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção: ceremony performed in Gregorian chants © guilherme tosetto Morning You’ll need to wake up early to make it to the 10 a.m. mass at Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Lgo. de São Bento, unnumbered, tel. 33288799), next to the São Bento metro station. But it’s worth the effort to hear the ceremony performed in Gregorian chants and to visit the church - part of the Mosteiro de São Bento. On your cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 51 © jair magri Empty streets, no lines, an overall feeling of calm: that is Sunday in São Paulo, a perfect day for anyone visiting the city for the first time. Start your tour with the mass performed with Gregorian chants at the Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção. Then, try some of the delicacies at the Mercado Municipal and go shopping at the Masp or in Liberdade. Soccer fans will delight in the chance to attend a game in the charming Pacaembu or Morumbi stadiums; there’s also the option to choose among many theatrical performances. Just don’t forget to end the week like the locals do: downing a delicious pizza. way out, stop by the shop in the sacristy to buy breads and cakes baked by the brothers themselves – delicious! While you’re tasting their treats, walk through the strees of Centro and take advantage of the calm to experience the privileged view of the Vale do Anhangabaú and the Teatro Municipal as seen from the Viaduto do Chá. Walk from there to the Mercado Municipal São Paulo Guide Stay another day 51 12/14/09 1:53:27 PM a perfect sunday (R. da Cantareira, 306, tel. 3313-1326) and delight in the wide variety of fruits, cheeses and olives that are there for the tasting. If you’re still hungry, stop in the Hocca Bar for a codfish pastel, or in the Bar do Mané for a traditional mortadella sandwich. Sitting at one of the tables up there allows you an unrushed opportunity to take in the beautiful stained glass windows of the market. Afternoon Return to the São Bento station and get back on the metro on your way to some of the street fairs that only take place on Sundays. Get off the train at TrianonMasp station and go to the open-air space beneath the Masp (Av. Paulista, 1578, tel. 3251-5644), where there’s a traditional antiques fair going on. An- other option is to go to Liberdade station for the delightful fair at the Praça da Liberdade, in São Paulo’s Asian neighborhood, where you’ll find Japanese, Chinese and Korean foods, ingredients or craftwork. For a late lunch, head to La Brasserie Erick Jacquin (R. Bahia, 683, 3826-5409), a famous French restaurant in Higienópolis that specializes in foie gras. Not far from there is the Estádio Pacaembu (Pça. Charles Miller, unnumbered, tel. 3663-3848). Find out beforehand if there’s a match, and if so, it’s a great opportunity to make a trip to the charming stadium. If a play of the theatrical variety is more your thing, look into the schedule at the Teatro Abril (Av. Brig. Luís Antônio, 411, tel. 2846-6060) or the Renaissance (Al. Santos, 2233, tel. 3069-2233). 52 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 52 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 1:53:54 PM © fernando moraes © madalena lelles Masp: on Sundays, there's a traditional antiques fair going on © STEFAN ZANDER La Brasserie Erick Jacquin: the famous French restaurant has nice desserts After soccer or the theater, embark on an old São Paulo tradition: enjoying a thincrust pizza. The Bráz chain (R. Graúna, 125, tel. 5561-0905) has many locations scattered around the city, but the original in Moema is one of the most enjoyable to try the round pies covered in Italian tomatoes and other first-rate ingredients. If your plans include finishing off the evening in a relaxed atmosphere – i.e. at a bar table – Filial (R. Fidalga, 254, tel. 3813-9226) in Vila Madalena is another São Paulo tradition. That’s where artists and others in the bohemian crowd finish off the night with good conversation accompanied by well-pulled draft beer, delicious appetizers and the unforgettable traditional black bean soup. Filial: where the bohemian crowd finish off the night © fernando moraes © madalena lelles Evening cidadedesaopaulo.com 5.DIAS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 53 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 53 12/14/09 1:54:12 PM O Velhão/As Véia: a charming, rustic village with stores and a restaurantt 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 54 © carlos bessa n 12/14/09 2:00:24 PM Essential © carlos bessa neighborhoods If you’ve got just one day for fun, it might be a wise idea to limit your exploration to a single part of São Paulo. The city has many fascinating neighborhoods, each with its own unique characteristics. In the area around Avenida Paulista, Jardins, Consolação and Higienópolis, there’s no lack of cultural attractions, top-rate cinemas and starred restaurants. To learn a bit more about the city’s history, take a trip through Centro, with its historic buildings, interactive museums and famous shopping streets like 25 de Março. Vast green spaces are the biggest attraction in the region around Ibirapuera, Moema, Vila Mariana and Vila Nova Conceição, but you can also have a meal in one of the area’s varied restaurants, which range from Middle Eastern food to steakhouses. Vila Madalena, Pinheiros and Butantã are known for shops from trendy fashion designers, jam-packed bars and beautiful bookstores. Sophisticated nightlife is among the biggest attractions in the region comprising Vila Olímpia, Itaim Bibi, Brooklin and Morumbi. That’s where you’ll find two temples to luxury consumption: Daslu and the Shopping Cidade Jardim mall. And finally, there are the attractions you’ll find if you’re willing to travel beyond the city’s well-trodden central axis. 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 55 12/14/09 2:00:36 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Mapping out the fun 70 Vila Madalena, Pinheiros AND Butantã Hip stores, charming bars, bookstores and cafés give life to the most bohemian part of the city AV. M LAPA Estádi Pacaem AV .M PERDIZES AR G. PI NH EI AV. Instituto Tomie Ohtake RO Cidade S Universitária S UÇA EBO AV. R BUTANTAN ROD. PINHEIROS RES AVA SO T O P A R IBIRAP AV . I . IB DO AV SB AND E AR O BROOKLIN AV. S T AN 56 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 56 AV J .B R Auditór Estádio Morumbi MORUMBI Vila Olímpia, Itaim Bibi, Brooklin AND Morumbi Nightclubs are the big strength of the area, though it also boasts luxury malls and high-end restaurants MAS VILA M ADALEN AM 74 Avenida Paulista, Jardins, Consolação AND Higienópolis On and around the city’s most beloved and important avenue, business mixes with culture, good food and plenty of entertainment ARN ALD O O 58 DR. 12/15/09 9:33:23 PM Co Artsy neighborhoods, foodie neighborhoods, places where nature takes center stage, and more: it is based on these characteristics that Paulistanos – São Paulo natives – pick their favorite areas and spread out across the city. To make your choice easier, the following pages guide you to spots in the most popular neighborhoods – the ones highlighted in the map below – as well as to some of the more interesting attractions off the beaten path n Campo de Marte AV. OLAVO FONTOURA Anhembi AV. M ARG. TIE TÊ IZES ARN ALD O AV. MASP VILA M ADALENA S UÇA HEIROS Mercado Municipal AV .P ACHAD O 62 Centro, Liberdade, Luz AND Bela Vista The recent revitalization of the old city center has transformed the region into a historical, artistic and architectural hub DOWNTOWN AU L IST A JARDINS AV .B RA SI AM TAR ÂN AL C MOOCA LIBERDADE Museu do Ipiranga L Auditório Ibirapuera AV. DR. RIC AR DO JAF ET IBIRAPUERA A ER PU RA AV I . . IB DO AV SB AND EIRA NTE S IPIRANGA AV .D SAÚDE ROD OOKLIN . AN ROD. DOS IMIG 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 57 Zoo TA RANTES CHIE Congonhas Airport 66 OE STA DO Ibirapuera, Moema, Vila Mariana AND Vila Nova Conceição The region's main highlight is a gigantic park, but others include the great museums, bars and restaurants © mapa martini Catedral da Sé . DO ESTADO AV Estádio Pacaembu São Paulo Guide Stay another day 57 12/15/09 10:00:37 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Avenida Paulista, Jardins, Consolação and Higienópolis On and around the city’s most beloved and important avenue, business and finance mix with culture, good food and plenty of entertainment; executives in sharp suits share the sidewalks with foreign and Brazilian tourists – always in perfect harmony MASP Consolação TRIANON AV. PAULISTA REB AV. CONJUNTO NACIONAL AL. LORENA R. OSCAR FREIRE 58 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 58 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 2:03:52 PM AV. NOVE DE JULHO O R. AUGUSTA ALD OUÇ RN R. A D . AV R. DA CONSOLAÇÃO Clínicas AS Sumaré Tria non-Ma Weekdays, holidays, Saturdays, Sundays, it doesn’t matter: the crowds walking down the sidewalks of Avenida Paulista are a microcosm of what São Paulo is all about, a city that thrives on growth and offers all the best ways to spend your hard-earned salary. The avenue’s origins date to the end of the 19th century, when the coffee barons established their mansions there. Today it’s a grab bag of corporate workers, locals and tourists in search of nourishment for body and soul – in museums, cinemas, nightclubs and restaurants. is R. PAMPLONA AV. NOVE DE JULHO FIESP cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 59 AV. BRIG. LUÍS ANTÔNIO Brigadeiro Tria non-Masp Paraíso CASA DAS ROSAS CASA DAS ROSAS This 1930s mansion is home to workshops and studios for artists and musicians. – Av. Paulista, 37, tel. 3285-6986, casadasrosas.sp.gov.br. CENTRO CULTURAL FIESP The cultural center always has great exhibitions. Also check out the calendar at the Teatro Popular do Sesi. – Av. Paulista, 1313, tel. 3146-740, sesisp.org.br/ centrocultural. CONJUNTO NACIONAL Opened in 1952, the building contains a large bookstore (Livraria Cultura, tel. 3170-4033), a cinema (Cine Bombril, tel. 3285-3696, (cinebombril.com.br) and a gallery space (Caixa Cultural, tel. 3321-4400, caixacultural. com.br). – Av. Paulista, 2073. ESPAÇO UNIBANCO DE CINEMA This cinema attracts a hip crowd. – © mapa martini Sights São Paulo Guide Stay another day 59 12/14/09 2:11:29 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS R. Augusta, 1470/1475, tel. 3288-6780, unibancocinemas.com.br. ITAÚ CULTURAL The calendar at Itaú bank’s cultural space includes thematic exhibitions, theater, music, dance and debates. – Av. Paulista, 149, tel. 2168-1777, itaucultural.org.br. MUSEU DE ARTE DE SÃO PAULO (MASP) The São Paulo Museum of Art features works by Van Gogh and Renoir. On Sundays, there is an antiques fair in the free span – a wide open space – under the museum structure. – Av. Paulista, 1578, tel. 3251-5644, masp.art.br. MUSEU DE ARTE BRASILEIRA The collection of this museum belonging to Faap – a university – includes work by artists like Tarsila do Amaral and FASANO In addition to super-comfortable rooms, the hotel is home to its classic (and eponymous) restaurant and the sophisticated Baretto bar. – R. Vitório Fasano, 88, tel. 3896-4000, fasano.com.br. INTERCONTINENTAL Its excellent location, in tandem with its efficient, discreet service, makes the hotel one of President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva’s favorites. – Al. Santos, 1123, tel. 31792600, ihg.com. RENAISSANCE The guest rooms also serve as true offices, with two telephone lines, a fax machine and high-speed internet. – Al. Santos, 2233, tel. 3069-2233, marriottbrasil.com. TIVOLI MOFARREJ Renovated with a modern flair, the hotel is also home to the Elements Spa. – Al. Santos, 1437, tel. 31465900, tivolihotels.com. Lodging EMILIANO Guests enjoy butler service, flat screen TVs and a menu of pillows. – R. Oscar Freire, 384, tel. 3069-4369, emiliano.com.br. © salvador cordaro Capim Santo: traditional dishes from Bahia Brecheret. – R. Alagoas, 903, tel. 3662-7200, faap.br/museu. MUSEU DO FUTEBOL AND ESTÁDIO PACAEMBU In the museum housed beneath the stands at Pacaembu, the history of Brazilian soccer – or futebol – is told through audiovisual displays and interactive activities. – Pça. Charles Miller, unnumbered, tel. 3663-3848, museudo futebol.org.br. RESERVA CULTURAL In addition to four screens, the cinema also presents exhibitions by a diverse group of artists. – Av. Paulista, 900, tel. 3287-3529, reservacultural.com.br. 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 60 Food BOA BISTRÔ Chef Tatiana Szeles lends a Brazilian touch to the restaurant’s menu. One exemple is bobó de camarão, a shrimp dish served with crunchy okra but without 12/14/09 2:12:17 PM listano), 3064-3058. Shopping © marco pinto GALERIA OURO FINO Its four floors contain a beauty salon, and stores selling vintage items. – R. Augusta, 2690, tel. 3082-7860. RUA OSCAR FREIRE Flirt with the display windows of designer label shops like Armani, Louis Vuitton and Prada. SHOPPING CENTER Oscar Freire: window shopping for designer labels IGUATEMI The oldest shopping mall in the city has always kept up with specialty is foie gras. – R. the times. – Av. BrigadeiBahia, 683, 3826-5409. ro Faria Lima, 2232, tel. PÃO DE QUEIJO HADDOCK 3816-6116. LOBO Delicious pães de Nightlife queijo (Brazilian cheeseCASA DE FRANCISCA This bread) come out of the oven every 15 minutes. – early 20th-century mansion was reborn as a spot R. Haddock Lobo, 1408, for good live music. – R. tel. 3088-3087. José Maria Lisboa, 190, RITZ This restaurant is a tel. 3052-0547, casade favorite among the gay francisca.art.br. crowd. – Al. Franca, SONIQUE This much1088, tel. 3062-5830. hyped bar is always jamSPOT Popular among packed. – R. Bela Cintra, fashionistas and the famous, it’s the ideal place 461, tel. 2628-8707, soniquebar.com.br. to see and be seen. – Al. Ministro Rocha Azevedo, VEGAS One of the most famous nightclubs of the 72, tel. 3284-6131. city, it has nights dedicatZ DELI The Polish owner ed to rock, jazz, electronic prepares Jewish recipes. - Al. Gabriel Monteiro da music and funk. – R. Augusta, 765, tel. 3231-3700. Silva, 1350 (Jd. Pau- the traditional dendê oil. It is available only on Saturdays. - R. Pe. João Manuel, 950 (Cerqueira César), 3082-5709. CAPIM SANTO The restaurant is modeled after a villa in the south of Bahia state. – Al. Ministro Rocha Azevedo, 471, tel. 3068-8486. D.O.M. Under the command of the chef Alex Atala, it is considered one of the best restaurants in the world. – R. Barão de Capanema, 549, tel. 3088-0761. GALERIA DOS PÃES “The Bread Gallery” is a combination of wine cellar, delicatessen and snack bar. – R. Estados Unidos, 1645, tel. 3064-5900. LA BRASSERIE ERICK JACQUIN The restaurant’s cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 61 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 61 12/14/09 2:12:35 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Centro, Liberdade, Luz and Bela Vista History, art and architecture are the attractions in Centro, the city center, which has gone through an intense revitalization process that has made it even more attractive for both tourists and city residents S IA NT A IF IG ÃO AV NG A HO República TEATRO MUNICIPAL EJ UL E AV .N OV ED UÍS ÃO L AV. S RIA PA UL A ERD LIB AV. VIN TE E TRÊ .L U SD ÍS EM AN TÔ AIO NI AD O MA .B RI G R. CATEDRAL DA SÉ E Anhangabaú AV COPAN P .I A IR Li A JO AV .D . S ÃO IA Santa Cecília AV. SE ÊN AV 62 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 62 R. M AU Á SA Sights BASÍLICA DE NOSSA SENHORA DA ASSUNÇÃO Gregorian chants at Mass, Mon. through Fri. 7 a.m.; Sat., 6 a.m.; and Sun., 10 a.m. The store next to the sacristy sells breads and cakes. – Lg. de São Bento, unnumbered, tel. 3328-8799, mosteiro.org.br. CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA DA SÉ The guided tour allows access to the subterranean crypt. – Pça. da Sé, unnumbered, tel. 3107-6832. CENTRO CULTURAL BANCO DO BRASIL Built in 1901, the building houses exhibition halls, a theater, a cinema and a café. PARQUE DA LUZ R. X ESTAÇÃO JÚLIO CA E PRESTES D Q. . D V A PINAC DO ES 12/14/09 2:13:39 PM A Vergue The revitalization of Centro has turned the region into an incredible cultural hub, perfect for pedestrians. Adjacent neighborhoods are also full of attractions. Originally the stronghold of Japanese immigrants, Liberdade is now home to Chinese and Korean communities as well. Bela Vista has Italo-Brazilian cantinas and the Festa de Nossa Senhora da Achiropita – a feast that on August weekends fills the streets with gastronomic treats and tarantellas. In the same spirit, June in Brás means the traditional Festa de São Vito. PINACOTECA DO ESTADO QUE UZ TA QUEIR ÓS RIO AV. SE N. MA Luz MERCADO MUNICIPAL CATAVENTO CULTURAL HO S. Bento EJ UL ED. ALTINO ARANTES R. D. PE O II PATEO DO COLlEGIO DR TEDRAL DA SÉ E AD Liberdade AV .D A LIB DO ERD TA AIO S O E . D EM D. Pedro II AV Sé ÊS D E EL P NG A R . AV AV. RADIAL LESTE Vergueiro 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 63 NA STA Bresser – R. Álvares Penteado, 112, tel. 3113-3651. ALTINO ARANTES BUILDING The top of the old headquarters of Banespa boasts is a beautiful view of the city. – R. João Brícola, 24, tel. 3249-7466. FAIRS Stands selling crafts and traditional dishes cram the Praça da Liberdade. On Praça Dom Orione, in Bela Vista, you’ll find vintage goods. Both happen on Sundays. FEIRA DA PRAÇA DA REPÚBLICA The main attractions at this arts fair are paintings and drawings. Many local artists create their works on the spot, and there are also hand-made ornaments. IGREJA NOSSA SENHORA DA BOA MORTE This church dates back to 1810 and was recently restored. It was an obligatory stop for slaves © mapa martini ND UA TE Í Tiradentes São Paulo Guide Stay another day 63 12/14/09 2:13:55 PM condemned to be hanged. Open 24 hours. – R. do Carmo, 202, tel. 3101-6889. LARGO SÃO FRANCISCO On São Francisco Plaza you’ll find the the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis with traces of Baroque style, and the Igreja de Chagas do Seraphico Pai São Francisco. MERCADO MUNICIPAL PAULISTANO (São Paulo Municipal Market) In the bustling food court, the Hocca Bar’s pastéis de bacalhau (fried codfish turnovers) are a standout, as is the mortadella sandwich at the Bar do Mané. – R. da Cantareira, 306, tel. 3313-1326, mer cadomunicipal.com.br . CATAVENTO CULTURAL The beautiful Palácio das Indústrias was transformed into this fantastic interactive museum covering space oddities, biology, history and geography. – Pq. Dom Pedro II, tel. 3315-0051, cata ventocultural.org.br. MUSEU DA LÍNGUA PORTUGUESA This museum transforms language learning into a playful activity. – Pça. da Luz, unnumbered, tel. 3326- © heudes régis ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS 0775, museulingua portuguesa.org.br. MUSEU DE ARTE SACRA 4,000 items recount the history of Brazilian sacred art. – Av. Tiradentes, 676, tel. 3326-1373, museuartesacra.org.br. PATEO DO COLLEGIO The site where the city was founded is home to a museum, church and restaurant. – Pça. Pátio do Colégio, 2, tel. 31056899, pateocollegio. com.br. PINACOTECA DO ESTADO In addition to its permanent collection of pieces from names like Rodin 64 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 64 and Portinari, the museum hosts rotating exhibitions. – Pça. da Luz, 2, tel. 3324-1000, pina coteca.org.br. SALA SÃO PAULO This modern concert hall inside Estação Júlio Prestes is one of the best in the world. – Pça. Júlio Pres tes, s/n, tel. 3223-3966, salasaopaulo.art.br. THEATRO MUNICIPAL Modeled after the Paris Opera, this classic oldfashioned theater hosts operas, dance performances and concerts. – Pça. Ramos de Azevedo, tel. 3397-0300. cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 2:14:29 PM Pateo do Colégio: the city was founded here Lodging LUZ PLAZA A good choice in the city center. The hotel is quite comfortable, according to Guia Brasil 2010. – R. Prates, 145, 2627-3400, luzpla za.com.br. NOVOTEL JARAGUÁ Right in the heart of the city, it has 415 units. – R. Martins Fontes, 101, 28027000, accorhotels.com.br/ novotel. Food ACRÓPOLES Serves Greek delicacies like moussaka cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 65 (a pastry with eggplant and ground beef). – R. da Graça, 364, tel. 32234386, Bom Retiro. CAPUANO This is the oldest São Paulo-style cantina still in operation in the city. – R. Conse lheiro Carrão, 416, tel. 3288-1460. FAMIGLIA MANCINI This cantina has a marvelous antipasto buffet and generously-portioned pasta dishes. – R. Avanhandava, 81, tel. 3256-4320. TERRAÇO ITÁLIA You can count on the Italian dishes served in this restaurant with a view atop the Edifício Italia. – Av. Ipiranga 344, 41o and 42o floors, tel. 21892929. Shopping GALERIA DO ROCK This shopping gallery has the city’s biggest concentration of stores selling CDs, vinyl, videos and DVDs. – R. 24 de Maio, 62. RUA JOSÉ PAULINO The street is full of shops with clothing and accessories at low prices. RUA SANTA IFIGÊNIA Many shops on this street sell computers and stereo and video systems. RUA SÃO CAETANO This is where you’ll find bridal dresses and accessories at a discount. RUA 25 DE MARÇO The varied – and dirt cheap – wares of this bustling corridor attracts huge crowds on weekends. Doural (595, tel. 33132883) has everything you need for the home, Armarinhos Fernando (662, tel. 2799-8000) has toys and sewing items, and Casa Real Flores (954, tel. 3311-9367) has silk flowers. Nightlife BAR BRAHMA Has an eclectic line-up of shows that include old-school Brazilian performers. – Av. São João, 677, tel. 3333-0855, barbrahma sp.com. BAR LÉO This “botequim,” or traditional neighborhood bar, serves wonderful chopp (Brazilian-style draft beer). – R. Aurora, 100, tel. 3221-0247. SALVE JORGE During happy hour, the bar food menu goes well with the chopp. At lunch, order the roast chicken. – Pça. Antônio Prado, 33, loja 17, tel. 3107-0123. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 65 12/14/09 2:14:40 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Ibirapuera, Moema, Vila Mariana and Vila Nova Conceição The greenest part of the city has excellent museums, charming bars and restaurants, good shopping and a designer hotel so different that it has become one of the city’s postcard images Sights .N AV OV PR AV. ES. CE JUS JU LH O LINO KUB FA R I MU M A A LIM AV. HÉLI O PELLEG AV O . D S BA ND EIR AN TE S 66 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 66 E DE MON ÀS BA RIG. AV. B CENTRO CULTURAL SÃO PAULO The cultural center has a braille library, a comic book collection, art exhibitions, and (on certain days) plays and musicals. – R. Vergueiro, 1000, tel. 3397-4002, centrocultural.sp.gov.br. MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA (MAM) The Modern Art Museum’s collection includes about 4,000 contemporary Brazilian works, from names like Portinari, Di Cavalcanti, Tarsila do Amaral and Brecheret. –Parque Ibirapuera, Gate 3, tel. 5085-1300, mam.org.br. MUSEU LASAR SEGALL The museum has about 3,000 original works from Lasar Segall (1891-1957), including paintings both on canvas and paper as well as engravings, drawings and sculptures. – R. Berta, 111, tel. 5574-7322, museusegall.org.br. PARQUE IBIRAPUERA The city’s biggest recreational area measures 1.6 million square meters and attracts about 200,000 visitors on weekends. There is an 800-person auditorium, exhibition spaces like the Oca and the Pavilhão da Bienal (Biennial Pavilion) and much more. The Museu AfroBrasil (Gate 10, tel. 5579- 8542, museuafrobrasil.com.br) houses 5,000 works with African themes. The Museu de Arte Contemporânea, or MAC (Gate 3. Pavilhão Ciccillo Matarazzo, 3rd floor, tel. 5573-5255, mac.usp.br), runs courses, 12/14/09 2:16:12 PM What makes this area stand out is its enormous green space known as Ibirapuera, that serves as the lungs of the city. Professional and recreational athletes use the 1.6 million square-meter park daily, exercising among works by Oscar Niemeyer. The design of the modern Hotel Unique is an attention grabber: it’s in the unusual shape of a watermelon. Nearby, the streets of Moema tempt both nightlife-lovers and bargain-hunters. o São Joaquim Vergueiro AV CENTRO CULTURAL SÃO PAULO L JU SI DE RA .B O .N AV VE O LH E NT VI . AV PARQUE IBIRAPUERA AI M O Paraíso Ana Rosa R. MONUMENTO ÀS BANDEIRAS ET E SD RÊ VE AUDITÓRIO IBIRAPUERA RG UE OBELISCO OCA Vila Mariana MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA (MAM) R. RIO NÁ NTE V CE I AV. .D O LÍ BA N UE AP IR MUSEU LASAR SEGALL Santa Cruz Saúde IND IAN .I B AV. RA O ÓP AN AV A MADUREIRA IS S OL TE © mapa martini .R EP ÉLIO P LLEGRINO E AV. R U B E M B E R TA AV V. H SEN AV . J A B A Q U A RA JU KUBITSCHEK IRO ES. LINO SCE São Paulo Guide Stay another day 67 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 67 12/14/09 2:16:26 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Lodging HOTEL UNIQUE The watermelon-shaped design is from the architect Ruy Ohtake. The rooms, with decor by João Armentano, have automatic light and sound controls and soundproofed windows. – Av. Brigadeiro Luís Antônio, 4700, tel. 3055-4700, hotelunique.com.br. MERCURE GRAND HOTEL IBIRAPUERA The modern apartments have two telephone lines and an electronic safe. Two restaurants offer Italian cuisine and regional Brazilian dishes. – R. Joinville, 515, tel. 5088-4000, accorhotels.com.br. SOFITEL Some suites have a bath and balcony with a view of the Parque de Ibirapuera. The hotel has a traditional boulangerie offering French delicacies. – R. Sena Madureira, 1355, bl. 1, tel. 32010800, sofitel.com.br. Food BRAZ In this pizzeria, the pies come with a crunchy crust, sauce made with Italian tomatoes and the right amount of toppings. – R. Graúna, 125, tel. 5561-0905. 68 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 68 © heudes régis workshops, seminars and conferences. The Pavilhão Japonês (Japanese Pavilion) (Gate 8, tel. 50817296) shows traditional Japanese products in a replica of a classic Japanese garden. The 48,000 square meter Viveiro Manequinho Lopes (Gate 7, tel. 3887-6761) is a nursery used to produce seedlings for plants used along city streets and avenues. O Planetário Professor Aristóteles Orsini (Gate 10, tel. 5575-5206) brings the heavens closer in a dome 18 meters in diameter. The Auditório Ibirapuera (Gate 3, tel. 3629-1075, auditorioibirapuera.com. br) was chosen by Travel & Leisure magazine as one of the World’s Coolest Buildings in 2009. Another cool thing to do in the park is to check out the colored light show at the fountain in the lake, every weekend between 8:30 and 9:30 p.m. - Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, unnumbered (Gates 3 and 10); Av. República do Líbano, 1158 (Gates 7A, 7 and 8 – pedestrians); Av. IV Centenário, unnumbered (Gate 6 – pedestrians). Bar Skye: an upbeat atmosphere FOGO DE CHÃO Meats of all kinds and an expansive salad bar justify the international reputation of this churrascaria near the Aeroporto de Congonhas. – Av. Moreira Guimarães, 964, tel. 5056-1795. INNOMINATO OSTERIA The hearty dishes are always sized for two people. Try the polpettone na brasa ao gorgonzola com espaguete na manteiga – Brazilian meatballs filled with gorgonzola and served with buttered spaghetti. – R. Joinville, 56, tel. 5571-9839. PÉ NO PARQUE Bowls of açaí, wheatgrass juice and fresh sandwiches satisfy the hungry folks cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 2:17:02 PM Shopping can choose between gift shops, interior design stores and fashion boutiques, many built in Dutch style. Nightlife SKYE In the penthouse of the Hotel Unique, the restaurant-bar hybrid has an upbeat atmosphere helped along by DJs every night of the week except Sunday, starting at 9 p.m. – Av. Brigadeiro Luís Antônio, 4 700, tel. 3055-4702. VELOSO The bar serves inventive caipirinhas to accompany the creamy coxinhas (Brazilian-style chicken croquettes). Tables look out on a square of cobblestones remniscent of a small town. – R. Conceição Veloso, 56, tel. 5572-0254. Rancho da Empada: savory pastries with many fillings © mário rodrigues that come through Ibirapuera Park. – R. Inhambu, 240, tel. 5051-3376. RANCHO DA EMPADA Among the fillings for the light-crusted empadas (savory pastries) are anchovies with sun-dried tomatoes, salted codfish, spinach, and shrimp. There are also pies, coxinhas and soups. – R. Sena Madureira, 557, tel. 5579-5330. TENDA DO NILO Here, sisters Olinda and Xmune put great care into their Middle Eastern dishes. The great value for the price is one of the restaurant’s highlights, according to Guia Brasil 2010. – R. Coronel Oscar Porto, 638, tel. 3885-0460. SHOPPING IBIRAPUERA The 30 year-old mall has around 500 shops, including the Saraiva bookstore and famous Brazilian brands, like Bayard, Cori, Animale and Accessorize. It is near Aeroporto de Congonhas. – Av. Ibirapuera, 3103, tel. 5095-2300. SHOPPING METRÔ SANTA CRUZ With direct access to the Santa Cruz metro station, this mall has 132 stores such as TNG, Tok & Stok, Arezzo and Siciliano. When you’re done shopping, you can watch a movie on one of the Cinemark theater’s 11 screens. – R. Domingos de Morais, 2564, tel. 3471-8000. RUA NORMANDIA Thirty-six side-by-side stores line this cobblestone street in Moema. You cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 69 12/14/09 2:17:13 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Vila Madalena, Pinheiros and Butantã H EI TO Vila Madalena AV. R. PO MPEIA One of the liveliest parts of the city, Vila Madalena has charming bars, funky stores and studios, and streets chock-full of interesting people day and night R PE NT EAD O SO RA BECO DO BATMAN UE MO IQ DE AD RO FR .P ED R. N FA M AT O S O LI B IO AV. E U S É A SIL RI BRA MA 70 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 70 O AN G. AL RI . B VIT C L E AV AV. INSTITUTO TOMIE OHTAKE R. EA OV TE UM ROS S HEI EIRO PIN INH L P NA GI INSTITUTO BUTANTAN D AR C AR R. R DO O SA HA HO O R AR I SC IN . M E RD H. UT AV PRAÇA BENEDITO CALIXTO CO IS R . A S P IC U E PRAÇA DO PÔR DO SOL R. AV LTA Sumaré 12/14/09 2:18:05 PM AV Artists and students were the first to discover Vila Madalena, back in the 1970s. At that time, its affordable rents and proximity to the University of São Paulo made it perfect for them. From then on, small Portuguesestyle houses Portuguese-style houses gave way to dozens of bars and nightclubs, transforming the Vila into one of the city’s most bohemian neighborhoods and turning it into an obligatory stop for tourists. By day, the slopes of the Vila and Pinheiros also hold plenty of interesting attractions: funky shops, artists’ studios, bookstores and cafés. Sumaré AV RAÇA NEDITO ALIXTO R. O TE DO RO SA . D R AI MP Clínicas . A R O NA LD O Consolação AV CH AU MA NN E . R AV BO AV A UÇ S .P A U LI ST A TrianonMasp . BR A SI L cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 71 BECO DO BATMAN Since the 1980s, graffiti artists have been transforming the streets of Vila Madalena into artistic spaces. The most emblematic of them all is Rua Gonçalo Alonso, also known as the Beco do Batman (or “Batcave”). A walk through there will make you feel as if you’ve stumbled into a comic book. ÍMÃ FOTO GALERIA A gallery with the best that Brazilian photography has to offer. – R. Fradique Coutinho, 1239, tel. 3816-1290, imafoto galeria.com.br. INSTITUTO BUTANTAN The institute is an important center for both vaccine production and the study of poisonous animals. Children will be impressed by the snakes of all sizes. – Av. Vital Brasil © mapa martini Sights São Paulo Guide Stay another day 71 12/14/09 2:18:20 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Lodging GEORGE V This building designed by Ruy Ohtake has 67 ample suites. – R. Roquete Pinto, 9, tels. 3030-0700 and 0800-7734663, george-v.com.br. GOLDEN TOWER The business center is open 24 hours. – R. Dep. Lacerda Franco, 148, tel. 3094-2200, goldentower hotel.com.br. QUALITY FARIA LIMA This hotel has four event halls, a hotel, a sauna and a solarium. – R. Diogo Moreira, 247, tels. 2197-7050 and 0800-555855, atlanticahotels.com.br. CHÁCARA SANTA CECÍLIA The wooded country setting – complete with a stream – delights children. – R. Ferreira de Araújo, 601, tel. 3034-6251. CONSULADO MINEIRO Try the rice balls before tasting the delicious dishes from Minas Gerais state and one of the 80 different cachaças the restaurant offers. – Pça. Benedito Calixto, 74, 3064-3882. DON CURRO One of the best dishes is the paella, with rice, saffron, calamari, shrimp, other shellfish, and chicken. – R. Alves Guimarães, 230, tel. 3062-4712. JUN SAKAMOTO The chef’s creativity is put to the test when you order the tasting menu, which features precisely cut su- © roberto setton Food shi and sashimi. – R. Lisboa, 55, tel. 3088-6019. MANÍ Feijoada spheres and celery root ice cream are among the experiences on this avant-garde menu. – R. Joaquim Antunes, 210, tel. 3085-4148. VECCHIO TORINO Awarded a star by Guia Brasil 2010, Jun Sakamoto: put the chef's creativity to the test © máriio rodrigues 1500, tel. 3726-7222, butantan.gov.br. INSTITUTO TOMIE OHTAKE Inside a building designed by architect Ruy Ohtake, the institute offers art, architecture and design exhibits. – Av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 201, tel. 2245-1900, institu totomieohtake.org.br. PRAÇA DO PÔR DO SOL Families come to “Sunset Square” to watch the golden orb hide amongst the buildings. – Pça. Coronel Custódio Fernandes Pinheiro, unnumbered. 72 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 72 12/14/09 2:18:53 PM Nightlife Pça. do Pôr do Sol: a perfect place to watch the sunset this Italian restaurant has a well-executed menu and works of art by Lasar Segall on display. – R. Tavares Cabral, 119, tel. 3816-0592. Shopping FEIRA MODERNA This pleasant, expansive space has a good selection of work by Brazilian craftmakers. You can have your breakfast there too. – R. Fradique Coutinho, 1246, tel. 3032-2253. FNAC One of the best bookstores in the city. – Pça. dos Omaguás, 34, tel. 3579-2000, fnac. com.br. cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 73 LIVRARIA DA VILA Cozy and pleasant, this bookstore has an outdoor café. It hosts talks, children’s activities and book launch events. – R. Fradique Coutinho, 915, tel. 3814-5811. PRAÇA BENEDITO CALIXTO This park holds a charming antiques and crafts fair every Saturday. Stands serve snacks and cold beer to the beat of quality São Paulo-style chorinho music. RUAS TEODORO SAMPAIO AND CARDEAL ARCOVERDE These two parallel streets specialize in new and used furniture, and it is also possible to find restoration workshops. ANHANGUERA All the beers on this bar’s vast menu are Brazilian microbrews. – R. Aspicuelta, 595, tel. 3031-2888. BAR SECRETO This house music club vaulted to fame after Madonna showed up there. – R. Álvaro Anes, 97. FILIAL This bar usually gets packed in the wee hours. – R. Fidalga, 254, tel. 3813-9226. MELOGRANO Delightful dishes from the woodburning stove accompany the beer list named best of the city by Veja São Paulo magazine in 2009. – R. Aspicuelta, 436, tel. 3031-2921. PÉ DE MANGA The outdoor tables give customers an incentive to prolong their meal during weekend lunch. – R. Arapiraca, 152, tel. 3032-6068. SUB ASTOR The lines to get into this bar inspired by the speakeasies of Prohibition-era America are justified. The space is in the basement of the classic Astor bar. – R. Delfina, 163, tel. 3815-1364. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 73 12/14/09 2:19:07 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Vila Olímpia, Itaim Bibi, Brooklin and Morumbi AV Those looking to spend their nights enjoying themselves in high style have come to the right part of town. The neighborhoods of Zona Sul (the South Zone) also offer high-end shopping and fine restaurants IO .G VA N ESTÁDIO MORUMBI JOR GE N IG RO AV. NC HI PALÁCIO DOS BANDEIRANTES AV. M O RU MBI SHOPPING CIDADE JARDIM Granja Julieta Morumbi AV .D R. A. PE AV. D NT AS N EA A ÇÕE R I O DO S UN P I N I D A Berrini S H E I R O S AV. D R. CH Vila UCRI ZAID Olímpia AN S N TE RO RA N. N D EI .J OR O . D S . S AN BA AV AV TO AM AR O AV ITSC KUB AV. P R ES. JUSC. BE RT AV. O MA MOR RIN HO UMB I ED. PLAZA CENTENÁRIO (”Robocop”) D HE K 74 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 74 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 2:20:41 PM The area around Luis Carlos Berrini Avenue is where Brazil’s most important technology firms are located. But it also houses some of the best hotels in the city, famous for hosting celebrities and chiefs of state. Also nearby: temples to consumption, starred restaurants and many bars and nightclubs frequented by the upper crust. In Morumbi, there’s Cícero Pompeu de Toledo Stadium, the stage for matches between Brazil’s top soccer rivals, and also for international performers like Madonna, Michael Jackson and U2. JOÃ O SAAD Sights AV RO .P F. FR AN JOCKEY CLUBE DE SÃO PAULO AV. TE AD O LIN DE EU S DA NA CI PA U ÇÕ SC O RA C MA LA UN ES MO ID TO HA DO Pinheiros Rebouças AS . AV Cidade Jardim Vila Olímpia PARQUE DO POVO .N O VE D R . B AV E JU LH O ITSC KUB AV. P R ES. JUSC. AV HE K cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 75 IG A . F RIA LIM A FUNDAÇÃO MARIA LUÍSA E OSCAR AMERICANO It’s wonderful to sip tea and watch the sun set in the gardens of this foundation. On the grounds, a house designed by the architect Oswaldo Arthur Bratke holds a museum. – Av. Morumbi, 4077, tel. 3742-0077,fundacao oscaramericano.org.br. JOCKEY CLUB DE SÃO PAULO Horse races are only on Mondays. But you don’t need to like racing to enjoy a visit to the Jockey Club: the area is also home to good bars and restaurants, like Charlô and Mercearia. – Av. Lineu de Paula Machado, 599, Gate 6-A, tel. 2161-8300, jockeysp. com.br. MEMORIAL DO SÃO PAULO FUTEBOL CLUBE The museum – in Cícero © mapa martini AV. GE JOR São Paulo Guide Stay another day 75 12/14/09 2:20:54 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Pompeu de Toledo Stadium in Morumbi – has a floor dedicated to trophies won by São Paulo Football Club, one of the city’s most popular teams. – Pça. Roberto Gomes Pedrosa, portão 17, tel. 3749-8000. PARQUE ALFREDO VOLPI The park, more than 142,000 square meters of it, functions as a biological reserve in the middle of the city. – R. Engenheiro Oscar Americano, 480, tel. 3031-7052. PARQUE DO POVO Opened in 2008, the 112,000 square-meter park has sports courts and paths for walking, running and cycling. – Av. Henrique Chamma, unnumbered. ted in a solarium. – Av. das Nações Unidas, 12901, tel. 2845-0000, hilton.com. SHERATON SÃO PAULO WTC This is the only hotel in São Paulo located within a complex that also houses a shopping mall (the D&D, specializing in decoration), a convention center, and an office complex. – Av. das Nações Unidas, 12559, tel. 3055-8000, sheraton saopaulowtc.com.br. TRANSAMÉRICA NAÇÕES UNIDAS This urban resort has a three-hole golf course, tennis courts and Hilton Morumbi: a view of the Ponte Estaiada a health club. It is next to the Transamérica Expo convention center. – Av. das Nações Unidas, 18591, tel. 5693-4511 or 0800-0126060, transamerica.com.br. Food APPLEBEE’S The casual dining chain features american meat dishes. – Av. Roque Petroni Jr., 1089, Shopping Morumbi, ground floor, tel. 5181-1565. BANANEIRA Constructed from tree trunks and surrounded by vegetation, the restaurant resembles nothing if not a big beach shack. – R. Marechal GRAND HYATT SÃO PAULO This is one of city’s 25 luxury hotels, with 24-hour butler service. – Av. das Nações Unidas, 13301, tel. 2838-1234, saopaulo.grand.hyatt. com. HILTON MORUMBI A favorite amongst celebrities and politicians. The hotel’s swimming pool never closes and is loca- © jair magri Lodging 76 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 76 12/14/09 2:23:18 PM Hastinfilo de Moura, 417 (Morumbi), 3542-4630. CASA DA FAZENDA DO MORUMBI This restaurant is located within what was once the mansion of one of the first tea plantations in colonial Brazil. – Av. Morumbi, 5594, tel. 3742-2810. EAU FRENCH GRILL The menu focuses on grilled meat, fish and poultry, served with French accompaniments like béarnaise sauce. – Av. das Nações Unidas, 13301 (Brooklin), 2838-3207. LA MAR Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio’s famous chain of restaurants landed in São Paulo in 2009, introducing its famous ceviches (chunks of raw fish marinated in lime). – R. Tabapuã, 1410, tel. 3073-1213. PJ CLARKE’S The branch of the New York restaurant was elected best burger in the city by Guia Brasil 2010. – R. Doutor Mário Ferraz, 568, tel. 3078-2965. SANTO GRÃO The coffee kiosk in the Livraria da Vila bookstore within Shopping Cidade Jardim meets the same high standards set by its main branch in the Jardins area. – Av. Magalhães de Castro, 12000, tel. 3552-7700. VIPITENO GELATTO & CAFFÈ The creamy ice cream is made with ingredients straight out of Italy. – R. Manoel Guedes, 85, tel. 3476-1881. Shopping DASLU São Paulo’s temple of luxury holds 120 designer labels, two restaurants and much more. – Av. Chedid Jafet, 131, tel. 3841-4000. MORUMBI SHOPPING One of the city’s most eclectic malls, it has a good gourmet wing and stores featuring Brazilian fashion labels. – Av. Roque Petroni Jr.,1089, tel. 4003-4132, RUA JOÃO CACHOEIRA The street is filled with some of the city’s beststocked shoe stores. SHOPPING CIDADE JARDIM The mall has stores featuring international names like Carolina Herrera and Salvatore Ferragamo. It also has two starred restaurants: Due Cuochi and Nono Ruggero. – Av. Magalhães de Castro, 12000, tel. 3552-1000. SHOPPING VILA OLÍMPIA An elegant shopping mall that opened in 2009, with stores like L'Occitane and H. Stern. – Rua Olimpiadas, 360, tel. 3047-6001. Nightlife NA MATA CAFÉ This nightclub is frequented by a good-looking crowd. – R. da Mata, 70, tel. 3079-0300. PINK ELEPHANT The São Paulo branch of the New York club is one of the hottest spots in town. – R. Gumercindo Saraiva, 289, tel. 2769-2003, pinkelephantclub.com.br. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 77 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 77 12/14/09 2:22:58 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS More sights Even outside its most celebrated neighborhoods, São Paulo still has a lot to offer. Explore other corners of the city and discover incredible attractions you’ll only find here AV. De Mal od . or o Armênia ba D. Pe d Liberdade ah an ga Sé DOWNTOWN An s AV .P ica ão ín PARQUE IBIRAPUERA L São Joaquim IST A iro Vergueiro LIBERDA de Br AV .B RA SI AU L iga Tri a M non as p Co ns o laç Cl ma S UÇA EBO R . V A ú pú bli ca Ce cíl ia Luz São Bento Re ta Sa n ARN ALD O ré DR. Su AV. M Vi ad la ale na Paraíso MU Ana Rosa Vila Mariana IBIRAPUERA AV. DR. RIC AR DO JAF E Santa Cruz RA UE P A AV IR Praça da . . IB V DO A Árvore SB AND BROOKLIN EIRA Saúde NTE S CONGONHAS AIRPORT S São Judas BOTANIC GARDEN Jabaquara RANTES Conceição ROD. DOS IMIG JARDIM BOTÂNICO This state park’s wide-open spaces house greenhouses with exotic plants, as well as trails through woods. – Av. Miguel Stéfano, 3031, tel. 50736300, ibot.sp.gov.br. FUNDAÇÃO PARQUE ZOOLÓGICO DE SÃO PAULO The more than 3,200 animals in Brazil’s main zoo live in enclosures that reflect their natural habitats. – Av. Miguel Stéfano, 4241, tel. 50730811, zoologico.sp.gov.br. ZOO SAFARI Visitors take vehicles through the park, moving amongst the giraffes, jaguars and alligators. You can drive through in your own automobile or in vans rented out by the park. – Av. do Cursino, 6338, tel. 2336-2131, zoologico. sp.gov.br/zoosafari. Tiradentes . DO ESTADO AV Água Funda 78 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 78 12/15/09 11:13:56 PM Z Those who venture beyond the city’s central areas will be justly rewarded. The Zona Leste (East Zone) has not-to-be-missed attractions like the Memorial do Imigrante. In Ipiranga you’ll find the important museum that tells the story of Brazilian independence. Barra Funda has the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Memorial da América Latina and is home to good nightclubs. If you’re up for outdoor activities, the Água Funda area (home to the zoo) and the Serra da Cantareira, with its Mirante da Pedra Grande, are also good choices. Sé AM TAR ÂN C L A ACHAD Pe n rrã o O RUA DA MOOCA DOWNTOWN MEMORIAL DO IMIGRANTE São Joaquim Vergueiro MOOCA LIBERDADE o Ca ua Ta t lém AV. Liberdade Be r se Br es D. Pe dr oI I Luz São ento pé . DO ESTADO AV entes ha AV. MA RG. TIE TÊ rmênia MUSEU DO IPIRANGA osa AV. DR. RIC AR DO JAF ET Vila ariana nta uz a IPIRANGA AV .D SAÚDE STA DO ROD . AN BOTANIC GARDEN CHIE © mapa martini ROD. DOS IMIG ZOO TA RANTES OE São Paulo Guide Stay another day 79 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 79 12/15/09 11:14:05 PM ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Barra Funda ALLEY CLUB Modern types dance to the sound of rock and electronic music. – R. Barra Funda, 1066, tel. 3666-0611, alleyclub.com.br. CB Bands from the Brazilian underground scene take the stage in this art deco-style rock club. – R. Brigadeiro Galvão, 871, tel. 3666-8971, cbbar.com.br. D-EDGE This stronghold of electronic music was elected fourth-best club in the world by the British magazine Mixmag. – Al. Olga, 170, tel. 3667-8334, d-edge.com.br. MEMORIAL DA AMÉRICA LATINA The architectural complex created by Oscar Niemeyer hosts shows and exhibitions. The memorial was created to strengthen cultural relations between Brazil and other Latin American countries. – Av. Auro Soares de Moura Andrade, 644, tel. 38234600, memorial.sp.gov.br. PARQUE DA ÁGUA BRANCA This park has an aquarium, playground, cultural activities and a space for zoological exhibits. – Av. Prof. Francis- co Matarazzo, 455, tel. 3865-4130, parque aguabranca.sp.gov.br. Cantareira HORTO FLORESTAL Tucked into Serra da Cantareira, this park has trails and train rides as well as pedalboat rides around its lakes. – R. do Horto, 931, tel. 2231-8555, horto florestal.com.br. PARQUE ESTADUAL DA SERRA DA CANTAREIRA Combined with three other areas, this state park forms the largest tropical jungle in any metropolitan region. – R. do Horto, 1799, tel. 2203-0115. O VELHÃO/AS VÉIA This demolition depot has been transformed into a charming, rustic village with stores, bars and a restaurant called As Véia that feels like a ranch. – Estr. de Santa Inês, 3000, tel. 4485-4195, velhao.com.br. Freguesia do Ó FRANGÓ Since 1987, São Paulo residents have been willing to traverse the city to try the awardwinning coxinha – or chicken croquette – filled 80 São Paulo Guide Stay another day 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 80 with catupiry cheese. – Lgo. da Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Ó, 168, tel. 3932-4818. Interlagos AUTÓDROMO DE INTERLAGOS The Autódromo Municipal José Carlos Pace is where the city holds its autoracing events. – Av. Senador Teotônio Vilela, 261, Gate 7, tel. 5666-8822, auto dromointerlagos.com PARQUE GUARAPIRANGA Next to the dam in São Paulo’s southern zone, this park has become a beach for the residents of the city. It has food kiosks, a running track, hiking trails, playgrounds and barbecue grills. - Estrada Guarapiranga, 575, tel. 3396-3076. Ipiranga e Mooca AQUÁRIO DE SÃO PAULO With more than 200 species, it’s the biggest aquarium in Brazil. – R.Huet Bacelar, 407, tel. 2273-5500. MEMORIAL DO IMIGRANTE The old Hospedaria dos Imigrantes houses expositions that show what the city was cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/14/09 2:25:05 PM © sérgio tauhata Jardim Botânico: trails through the woods like at the end of the 19th century. – R. Visconde de Parnaíba, 1316, tel. 2692-1866, memorial doimigrante.org.br. FESTA DE SAN GENNARO Stands sell italian food on the streets behind the São Januario parish church in the Mooca neighborhood, always in September. PARQUE DA INDEPENDÊNCIA The park has groves surrounded by azaleas and one hundred fountains. It’s also home to the Museu Paulista, with an excellent collection that paints a picture of life in Brazil since cidadedesaopaulo.com 6.BAIRROS_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 81 1500. – Av. Nazaré, unnumbered, tel. 22737250 e 2065-8000. Itaquera MEMORIAL DO CORINTHIANS The soccer club with the biggest fan base in the city now has a museum worthy of its stadium-filling abilities. – R. São Jorge, 777, Parque São Jorge, 2095-3000. Lapa THE WEEK This electronic music club has five different spaces, one of which is an open-air garden. – R. Guaicurus, 324, tel. 3868-9944, theweek.com.br. Santana AEROCLUBE DE SÃO PAULO The air club has flights that offer panoramic views of the city. – Av. Olavo Fontoura, 650, Campo de Marte, tel. 2221-9100, aero clubesp.com.br. PARQUE ANHEMBI With more than 400,000 square meters, it's one of the largest complexes for events in Latin America. – Av. Olavo Fontoura, 1 209, tel. 2226-0400. Vila Leopoldina PACHA The Spanish nightclub chain has a São Paulo outpost. – R. Mergenthaler, 829, tel. 21893700, pachasp.com.br. São Paulo Guide Stay another day 81 12/14/09 2:25:42 PM what to do Calendar São Paulo hosts more than 90,000 events a year. Plan your trip by consulting the following site: cidadedesaopaulo.com January SÃO PAULO FASHION WEEK: the fashion event reveals trends for the coming winter. ANIVERSÁRIO DA CIDADE: São Paulo’s birthday is celebrated wtih shows and a giant cake in Bela Vista on Jan. 25. February CARNAVAL: samba schools rock the Sambódromo. February É TUDO VERDADE: the “It’s All True” film festival shows international documentaries. April SÃO PAULO RESTAURANT WEEK: a selection of good restaurants offers special menus at inviting prices. May CASA COR SÃO PAULO: Latin America’s biggest home decor and landscaping show. VIRADA CULTURAL: live music, shows and exhibitions go all night long. June PARADA DO ORGULHO LGBT: the energetic LGBT Pride Parade (the world’s biggest) attracts gay men and women and their supporters. SÃO PAULO FASHION WEEK: spring and summer styles get a turn on the runways. JULy ANIMA MUNDI: the latest in animation from around the world. FESTA DE SÃO VITO: one of the biggest events in São Paulo’s Italian community. august BIENAL DO LIVRO: the “Book Biennial” includes expositions by publishing houses. FESTA DE NOSSA SENHORA ACHIROPITA: the streets around Bixiga turn into a huge Italian party. september DESFILE CÍVICO: the parade commemorates Brazil’s declaration of independence. VIRADA ESPORTIVA: a wide variety of sporting events take place in the city. FESTA DE SAN GENNARO: during four consecutive weekends, stands sell Italian food in the Mooca neighborhood. REVELANDO SÃO PAULO: this festival includes typical dances, music and crafts. SÃO PAULO RESTAURANT WEEK: a selection of restaurants offers prix fixe menus at inviting prices. october MOSTRA INTERNACIONAL DE CINEMA: hundreds of films from around the world. BIENAL DE ARTE: The daring art at São Paulo’s biennial always stirs up controversy. Takes place in even-numbered years. CORREDOR LITERÁRIO NA PAULISTA: during the “Literary Corridor” event, Paulista Avenue gets transformed into an immense open-air library. NOVEMBer SEMANA DA CONSCIÊNCIA NEGRA: during Black Consciousness Week, black culture gains prominence at various cultural spaces. GRANDE PRÊMIO DE FÓRMULA 1: the Brazilians host this stage of the Formula 1 World Championship at the Interlagos racetrack. BIENAL DE ARQUITETURA: the architecture biennial, held in odd-numbered years. december CORRIDA DE SÃO SILVESTRE: this 15 kilometer race brings part of the city to a halt on the final day of the year. RÉVEILLON: fireworks and concerts by famous artists get Avenida Paulista in a celebratory mood on New Year’s Eve. PLEASE NOTE: The listings above reflect the months the events are usually held, but are subject to change. For more complete and detailed information about events and fairs, visit: CIDADEDESAOPAULO.COM; VISITESAOPAULO.COM and UBRAFE.COM.BR. 82 São Paulo Guide Stay another day CALENDARIO_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 82 cidadedesaopaulo.com 12/15/09 10:01:31 PM A publication of São Paulo Turismo, S/A. The City of São Paulo’s official tourism agency has as its mission to position and promote São Paulo as the business, information and entertainment capital of Latin America, highlighting the city’s cultural and avant-garde character, endeavoring to strengthen it as a tourist destination, seeking to expand diverse sectors of the economy and to increase the quality of life of its citizens. Mayor, City of São Paulo: Gilberto Kassab – www.prefeitura.sp.gov.br São Paulo Turismo S/A President: Caio Luiz de Carvalho Vice-President: Tasso Gadzanis Tourism and Entertainment Office: Luciane Leite Promotions Manager: Marisa Marrocos Coordination: Marisa Marrocos, Juliana Carrasco Contributors: Aline Delmanto, Andréia Piason, Bernardo Ignarra, Carolina Negri, Fernanda Ascar, Lúcia Regina, Luciana Canto Copy editing: Lilian Natal e Beatriz Le Senechal Sites: www.spturis.com – www.cidadedesaopaulo.com – www.fiquemaisumdia.com.br – www.anhembi.com.br – www.autodromointerlagos.com Direct correspondence to: Avenida Olavo Fontoura, 1209 – Parque Anhembi – Santana – SP – CEP 02012-021 – cidadedesaopaulo@spturis.com Content furnished and produced by Editora Abril S/A, commissioned by Spturis. Evaluation and classification criteria are by Guia Quatro Rodas, without interference by the client. Reproduction prohibited. Some information is subject to change without advance notice. Avoid inconvenience by calling ahead to confirm. Printed by the Divisão Gráfica da Editora Abril S.A Tourism Department Director: Caco de Paula Editor-in-chief: Kiko Nogueira Contributors to this edition: Andrea Caitano, Antonio Lobato Jr., Carlos Eduardo Freitas, Carolina Tarrio, Cíntia Marcutti, Duda Bottini, Gabriela Erbetta, Hugo Ramirez, Lucía Hernandez, Marisa Adán Gil, Martini, Seth Kugel Marketing and Publicity: Carolina Ubrig, Fabio Luis , Paulo Zappa, Robson Monte e Virgínia Any CALENDARIO_INGLES_FABIOFinal.indd 83 12/14/09 2:34:21 PM