Foundation Foundation and and Concealer Concealer

Transcription

1702705
1-2010
Outline
Foundation and Foundation and Concealer
Concealer
• Foundation
• Concealer
• Make‐
Make‐up Base Foundation
• Equipment Requirements
q p
q
Ampa Jimtaisong, PhD
School of Cosmetic Science MAE FAH LUANG UNIVERSITY
1-2010
Introduction
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Foundation
• Face powder
• Face powder VS Powder foundation
Functions:
• Hide the skin flaws
• Even out various color tones in the skin
• Act as a protectant from the environment
• Make the skin surface appear smoother
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Foundation
Foundation
Other properties of ideal foundation
Ideal make‐up foundation’s application
• Water resistance • Shade consistency between the bottle • Moderate fast drying to allow for an even and the skin tone
application
• Non‐settling, pour easily, be stable in storage
• Product should be uniform
• Should not feel tacky, greasy, or too dry
• Coverage will vary with skin types
• Proper play time
Proper ‘play
time’ and slip
and slip
• Finish on the skin: matte, shiny, dewy h
h k
h
d
• Improve the appearance, not artificially • Wear properties: not peel‐ff, not rub‐
off on clothes
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Powder Compact Foundation
Foundation:
Types of foundations
• Powder foundation
Easy to touch up the makeup when one is away from home
• Oil‐based (anhydrous) foundation
• Aqueous‐based foundation
• Emulsion foundation
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•
Extender pigments: Talc, mica, sericite
pg
,
,
•
Whitening & coloring pigments: –
TiO2, ZnO, iron oxides
•
Binding agents
•
Perfumes
•
Actives
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Two‐way powder Foundation
•
Used on dry or wet sponge
•
Main type of summer foundation
•
Convenience, cool, refreshing feeling
Powder
•
Talc 20.3
•
Mica
35.0
•
Kaolin
35.0
•
TiO2
10.0
•
TiO2 coated Mica 3.0
•
Zinc stearate
1.0
•
Iron oxides
4‐5%
•
Nylon powder
10.0
Bi di
Binding agents
t
•
Squalane
6.0
•
Lanolin acetate
1.0
•
Octyldodecyl myristate4.0
•
Sorbitol monooleate0.5
Perfumes, actives
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Two‐way powder Foundation
Powder
•
Silicone‐treated talc •
Silicone‐treated mica
l
d
•
Silicone‐treated TiO2
•
Silicone‐treated ultrafineTiO2
•
Silicone‐treated Iron oxides
•
Zinc stearate
0.1
•
Nylon powder
Binding agents
•
Squalane
•
Solid paraffin
•
Dimethyl polysiloxane 4.0
•
Glyceryl triisooctanoate
Perfumes, actives
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19.2
40.0
15.0
5.0
4‐5%
2.0
4.0
0.5
5.0
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Anhydrous Foundation
Two‐
Two‐Way Foundation Make
Way Foundation Make‐‐Up
• Ingredients
% w/w
• Dimethicone Treated Sericite
Treated Sericite
44 3
44.3
• Dimethicone Treated Talc 37.2
• Dimethicone Treated Titanium Dioxide, Alumina 3.5
• Dimethicone Treated Yellow Iron Oxide 2.4
• Dimethicone Treated Red Iron Oxide
0.9
• Dimethicone Treated Black Iron Oxide
0.3
Binder
• Dimethicone
4.4
• Octyldodecyl Oleate
3.5
• Squalane
3.5
• Preservative
q.s.
• Powdery, not fluid
• Easy to travel with
• Autumn and winter
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• Ingredients
• Waxes
• Ingredients
• Pigments (often surface treated)
– Beeswax, jojoba, carnauba, candelilla
– Paraffin, polyethylene, – Dimethicone copolyol, beeswax, polyglyceryl‐3 beeswax (nice texture, compatibility with
beeswax (nice texture, compatibility with silicones)
– Fatty alcohols
– TiO2
– ZnO
– Iron oxides
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• Ingredients
• Ingredients
• Bioactives
• Wetting agents
– Anti‐inflammatory
– Low HLB emulsifiers
– Moisturizer and skin protectant
– Polyglyceryl esters (polyglyceryl‐3 diisostearate)
– Antioxidant
– Lanolin alcohols
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Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Liquid type
• Basic formulation
E lli t
Emollients
30 60%
30‐60%
Waxes
5‐10%
Wetting agents
0.5‐1.0%
Texturing agents
30‐60%
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• Anhydrous liquid translucent foundation
Powder
z
Mica
20-25 %
z
Iron oxides
q.s.
Oil phase
• Manufacturing procedure
1.Emollients,Waxes,Wetting agents‐heated
2.Pigment,Texturing agents‐added
z
Carnauba wax
5.0
z
Beeswax
1.0
z
Isopropyl myristate75.0
Perfumes, actives
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Anhydrous Foundation‐‐
Compact type Cake foundation
Compact type Cake foundation
Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Cream type
Powder
• Anhydrous cream foundation
Powder
•
Talc 17.8
•
Kaolin
15.0
•
TiO2
15.0
•
Iron oxides
4‐5%
z
Talc
to 100
z
Mica
3.0
z
TiO2
20.0
z
Iron oxides
4-5
•
Solid paraffin
•
Microcrystalline wax6.0
•
Beeswax
20
2.0
•
Petrolatum
12.0
•
Lanolin acetate
1.0
•
Squalane
6.0
•
Isopropyl palmitate 18.0
Oil phase
Oil phase
z
Carnauba wax
10.0
z
Mineral oil
30.0
z
Isopropyl myristate10.0
z
Lanolin
5.0
Perfumes, actives
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Anhydrous Foundation Anhydrous Foundation ‐‐ Stick type
3.0
Perfumes, actives
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Emulsion Foundation
Powder
•
Talc 2.8
•
Kaolin
20.0
•
Mica 3.0
•
TiO2
20.0
•
Iron oxides
4‐5%
• Compositions are vary widely depending on degree of coverage and emollient desired.
• Stability
• Pigment wetting and dispersion
Oil phase
•
Solid paraffin
•
Microcrystalline wax7 0
Microcrystalline wax7.0
• Easy spreading and blending
•
Petrolatum
• Good skin feel
•
Dimethyl polysiloxane3.0
•
Squalane
•
Isopropyl palmitate 17.0
Perfumes, actives
3.0
15.0
• Slippery feeling
5.0
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Emulsion Foundation
Emulsion Foundation
• Oil‐in‐Water (O/W) Emulsion Foundations
• Formulation considerations
Formulation considerations
– Oils and powder are dispersed through the water phase to form an emulsion
– Prolonged skin contact, minimize emulsifier levels to avoid irritant
– Cream and liquid type
– Choose the oils based on low comedogenicity
– Shorter playtime than that of W/O emulsion
– Preservation‐difficult to preserve (gum+water)
P
i diffi l
(
)
– Stability
Stability 25
Emulsion Foundation
•
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Emulsion Foundation
Oil‐in‐Water (O/W) Emulsion Foundation
– Powder
• Talc
• TiO2
• Iron oxides
3.0
5.0
~ 2.0‐3.0
– Oil
•
•
•
•
•
Stearic acid
Liquid paraffin
Liquid lanolin
Glyceryl monostearate
Isohexadecyl alcohol
2.2
8.0
2.0
2.0
70
7.0
– Water
•
•
•
•
•
Bentonite
Deionized water
POE sorbitan monostearate
Triethanolamine
Propylene glcol
– Other materials
0.5
to 100
0.9
1.0
10.0
1. Disperse bentonite in propylene
• Water‐in Oil (W/O) Emulsion Foundations
( / )
glycol, add water, mix well with
– This type has been used for long ago
others in water phase at 70 °C
– Easy to apply, long playtime, oily feel on use
2. Grind the powder ad add to
– Silicone oils—light feel, long wear, water‐resistant
water phase
3 The oil phase is heated to 70 °C
3.The
C
–2
2‐layer
layer dispersed foundation (shake well
dispersed foundation (shake well‐type)
type)
4. Add oil phase into water phase
– Cream type‐very popular
and process in a homomixer
– Undergo no change in color with wearing
5. While stirring, cool to 45 °C ,
and add other materials
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Emulsion Foundation
•
Emulsion Foundation
W/O Foundation Cream
•
– Powder
– Powder
1 Mix water phase well at 70 °C
1.
C
• Sericite
5.36
• Kaolin
4.0
2. Grind the powder ad add to water
• TiO2
9.32
phase
• Iron oxides
~ 2.0‐3.0
W/O liquid Foundation (2‐layer)
• Talc
3.The oil phase is heated to 70 °C
– Oil
7.0
• Silicic acid anhydride
2.0
• TiO2
12.0
• Nylon powder
4.0
• Iron oxides
~ 2.0‐3.0
2. Grind the powder ad add to
water phase
– Oil
• Liquid paraffin
5.0
4. Add oil phase into water phase and
• Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane
12.0
process in a homomixer
• Polyethylene denatutured
Polyethylene denatutured dimethylsiloxane
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4.0
• Pentaerythritol rosinate
1.5
5. While stirring, cool to 45 °C , and
• Neopentyl glycol diisooctanoate
2.0
– Water
1. Mix water phase well
• Octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane
10.0
3.The oil phase is mixed and add
oil phase into water phase, process
• Polyethylene denatutured dimethylsiloxane1.5
add other materials
in a homomixer
• Deionized water
to 100
• Dispersing agent
0.1
• Deionized water
to 100
• Propylene glcol
5.0
• Ethanol
7.0
• Propylene glycol
5.0
– Water
– Other materials
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– Other materials
Emulsion Foundation
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Emulsion Foundation
Emulsions
1. Direct pigment
¾
Coloration of the emulsion base may be handled in different ways:
¾
The pigments are weighted directly into the aqueous phase and dispersed or colloid milled
1.
Direct pigment
¾
Then, the emulsion is formed
2.
Pigment dispersions
¾
Problems: 3.
Mixed pigment blender
¾
too many color adjustments needed
4.
Monochromatic color
¾
Accurate color matching is difficult
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Emulsion Foundation
Emulsion Foundation
2. Pigment dispersions
3. Mixed pigment blender
¾
¾
The pigments and the extenders are premixed, pulverized, and matched to a standard
¾
Then, dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and the emulsion is formed
¾
The finished shade is color matched at the powder blender stage
¾
Changes of error are reduced
The pigment is mixed with talc in 50:50 dispersion ratio
¾
Then, pulverized to match a standard
¾
Reduce number of color corrections needed, but d
b
f l
d d b
storage may be a problem ¾
Taking time to make the dispersion
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Aqueous‐
Aqueous‐based or Suspension Foundation
Emulsion Foundation
4. Monochromatic color solutions
} Water‐based foundation
¾
Make color concentrates of each pigment in a finished formula
} Water
Easy to color match by blending finished base but much storage space is needed
} Pigment
Possibility of contamination is increased
} Additives
¾
¾
} Suspending agent
} Preservative
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Concealer Product
Cover facial blemishes: birthmarks, chloasma, lack of pigmentation
Stick or cream form
Stick or cream form
Concealer Product
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CONCEALER COMES IN DIFFERENT FORMS
Concealer
¾Solid cream stick
Formulation‐stick form
¾Pot
¾Tube
¾Wand
¾Pencil
¾Oil‐free compact
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Caster oil
29.4
Butyl stearate
14.0
Petrolatum
5.6
Beeswax
10.5
Ozokerite wax
7.0
Paraffin wax
3.5
TiO2
25.0
Iron oxides
5.0 Procedure
Heat the oils, waxes,
add the grind powders
Pour into mold
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Make‐‐up Base Foundation
Make
Make‐‐up Base Foundation
Make
Correct your skin tone, to achieving flawless and long lasting complexion. Yellow, green, violet, white
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Make‐
Make‐up Base Foundation Complexion: Make‐‐up Base Foundation
Make
Three basic color categories
Yellow = suitable for Dark and Uneven Skin Tone, yellow helps to lighten dark complexion and unified uneven skin tone
ki
Sallow: ªYellowish, brownish
Yellowish, brownish‐‐yellow or green color

Florid:
ªHighly colored, ruddy

Pink = suitable for Dull Skin Tone, pink can lighten and illuminates dull skin tone Use Lilac to calm yellow, sallow skin
Green = suitable for redness skin tone,
= suitable for redness skin tone green is very green is very
good to tone down the redness
Neutral:
ª Little or no color
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Blue = suitable for slight redness Skin Tone, Very Fair Skin Tone, blue helps to illuminates fair skin tone and tone down slightly redness
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Equipment Requirements:
Equipment Requirements
Grinding or Dispersing
a Grinding of pigments
a Grinding of the pigment phase into the Grinding of the pigment phase into the
a Mixing and blending of the liquid and the smallest possible particle size.
powder phases
aColloid mill
aRoller mill
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Equipment Requirements:
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Choosing the right foundation
Mixing
a A steam jacketed tank equipped with some A steam jacketed tank equipped with some
type of agitator (for oil phase) and a steam jacketed tank for water phase
a Homomixer
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Product forms:
Normal Skin Facial Foundations
N
l Ski F i l F
d i
Liquid
Coverage
Cream
Dry Skin Facial Foundations
Product finishes:
Acne/Oily Skin Facial Foundations
Combination Skin Facial Foundations
Very sheer
Sheer
Moderate
Matte Heavy
Semimatte
Full
Moist Moist semimatte
semimatte
shiny
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Facial Foundation Finishes
Normal Skin Facial Foundations
Finish
Appearance Formulation Skin type Moisturizing
ability
Numerous facial foundations of choice
Numerous facial foundations of choice
zMatte
Flat, no shine
Oil-free
Oily
Semimatte to moist semimatte
to moist semimatte finish
zSemimatte
Min. shine
Oil-free or
O/W-based
Oily to
Normal
O/W-based
O/W
based
Normal to
dry
Dry
zMoistMoistsemimatte
Dewy shine
zShiny
Obvious shine W/O-based
Least
Feature:
Moisturizing foundation: additives
Sun Protection (SPF)
Sun Protection (SPF)
Long‐lasting
Most
Natural‐look foundation
Liquid or Cream form
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Dry Skin Facial Foundations
Acne/Oily Skin Facial Foundations
All day moisturizing foundations
Matte or Matte or semimatte
semimatte finish
Easy to apply, long playtime, moist feeling
Oil
Oil‐‐free or low oil content
Semimatte or shiny finish
Less coverage
More prone to cake
Feature:
Short playtime, difficult to apply
Oil‐based (anhydrous) foundations
W/S emulsions
W/O emulsions
Liquid form
Cream form
Oil selection: Oil selection: comedogenic
comedogenic potential
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References
Combination Skin Facial Foundations
The most common skin type
yp
1. J.
J. B. Wilkinson, R. J. Moore, Harry
B. Wilkinson, R. J. Moore, Harry’ss Cosmeticology, 7th ed. Chemical Cosmeticology, 7th ed. Chemical
publishing, New York, USA, 1982.
T‐zone : oily central forehead, nose, cheeks
2. T. Mitsui, New Cosmetic Science, Elsevier Science B.V, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 1997.
No best foundation developed to date
3. M.S. Balsam, E. Sagarin. Cosmetics : Science and Technology. Volume I, II and III, 2nd ed., Wiley‐Interscience, New York, 1972, 1974.
Oil‐
Oil‐control foundation (higher Talc, kaolin)
Feature:
4 M
4.
M. Paye, A.O. Barel, H.I. Maibach. Handbook of Cosmetic Science Paye A O Barel H I Maibach Handbook of Cosmetic Science
Technology. Taylor & Francis, New York, USA, 2006.
O/W liquid emulsions
5. M. G. deNavarre, J.H. Merritt, The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, 2nd ed.,Continetal Press, Orlando, FL,USA.,1974. W/S liquid emulsions
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