our guide - Chowhound

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CHOW, the only online food magazine that includes a moonshine still in its gift guide, is honored to
be here at South by Southwest. In the spirit of all of you who are generously sharing your music,
movies, and general party proficiency, we’d like to share our food and drink advice.
What to expect: You don’t go to Bologna for the sushi. So when you’re eating in Austin, remember:
It’s mostly about Tex-Mex, friendly atmosphere, margaritas, and beer. Your odds are better with
the migas (see “Local Lingo”) than the eggs Benedict (though there are some mighty fine eggs
Benedict).
Neighborhoods: We’ve concentrated our attention around SXSW venues, which tend to be downtown,
around South Congress, on the east side of town, and around the UT campus. But we’ve also included
some out-of-the-way places just because you may want to escape for a bit, and they’re worth it.
FOOD
BARS
Casual .............................. 6
Fleet Eats ........................ 10
BBQ ................................ 14
Splurge ........................... 18
Breakfast and Late Night ... 20
Other Eats ....................... 28
Kickin’ It ........................32 Local Lingo ............................... 6
Power Bars ....................36 How to Eat a Taco .................... 12
What Is Texas Barbecue? ......... 14
The Best Local Beer and Wine .. 17
How to Stay Up Late ................ 20
Maps of Austin ........................ 22
How to Drink More .................. 35
Hangover Cures ....................... 38
Hotel Room Cooking ................ 40
Index ...................................... 42
AND ALSO...
Information was accurate to the best of our knowledge at the time of publication.
Please call ahead to make sure it’s still correct.
THE CHOW GUIDE TO EATING AND DRINKING IN AUSTIN Editor-in-Chief: Jane Goldman Editor: Lessley Anderson
Lead Writer: Mick Vann Art Director: Olivia Warnecke Copy Editor: Elissa Rabellino Contributors: Ben Brown, Regan Burns,
Michele Foley, Jason Horn, Traci Vogel Photographer: Eric Slatkin Coordination: Emily Hobson Maps: Nik Schulz Special
Thanks: Jay Ewing, Angie Croslin, Amy LeGrande, and Bridget Ehmann
Find this Austin guide online at www.chow.com/sxsw
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Queso—Local Tex-Mex
specialty consisting of
a giant bowl of melted
cheese and chiles meant
for dipping tortilla chips
in. Every restaurant has its
own signature variation, be
it with beef, chorizo (spicy
Mexican sausage), avocado,
or cream, and its own blend
of cheeses, from Velveeta
and store-bought Monterey
Jack to artisan cheddar and
house-made Mexican white
cheese.
Migas—Spanish for
“crumbs,” this is a Texas
weekend-staple breakfast
dish of eggs scrambled
with tortilla strips, onions,
peppers, tomatoes, and
cheese. In Austin, you’ll
often find tortilla chips
instead of strips in the
migas, and eat it served
with pan-fried grated
potatoes. Try migas paired
with beans in a tortilla for a
breakfast taco (see below).
Breakfast tacos—A
Tex-Mex original that’s
just what it sounds like:
breakfast foods wrapped
$
CASUAL
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3900 S. Congress Ave., 512-383-0031
Daily, 6 a.m.–10 p.m.
$
Homemade corn tortillas, real Mexican Coke, and the
best Austin hangover cure: birria (a Mexico City regional
dish of shredded goat or lamb, eaten either in tacos or
in a soup). The pork with green sauce is simply ethereal.
In this authentic Mexican joint, with its plastic cups and
tortilla-chip baskets, you can eat well for only $6 to $7,
not including margaritas. (South Austin)
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1917 Manor Road, 512-391-9500
Mon.–Thurs., 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri., 11 a.m.–10 p.m.;
Sat., 5 p.m.–10 p.m.
www.elgringoaustin.com
$–$$
A new restaurant, instantly popular for its creative
interpretations of regional classics (posole made with
duck, fried oysters in a cracker-crumb crust with
Tabasco aïoli and lemon sauce, chicken-fried rib-eye
steak with pepper-cream gravy) at affordable prices ($8
to $11 for any of the above). This large, relatively posh
spot gets crowded and noisy. But the good news is that
on the pecan tree–shaded back patio next to a raging
fire pit, the owners renovated a former storage shed into
a bar. Called the Red House Lounge, it quenches your
thirst if you’re waiting for a table inside, and stays open
when El Gringo closes at night. The same folks own
neighboring El Chile and El Chilito, also good if you’re
looking for nearby alternatives. (East Austin)
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1412 S. Congress Ave., 512-447-7688
Mon.–Fri., 11 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sat.–Sun., 8 a.m.–11 p.m.
www.guerostacobar.com
$–$$
Housed in a big old feed store with hardwood floors,
this slightly upscale Mexican-food spot is celebritysighting central, particularly during SXSW. The décor is
Mexican-cantina-meets-renovated-warehouse, and the
atmosphere is low-key. The margaritas are some of the
best in town, thanks to super-fresh lime juice, and don’t
miss the tacos al pastor. (South Austin)
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2002 Manor Road, 512-479-5006
Mon.–Fri., 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sat.–Sun., 8 a.m.–10 p.m.
www.hooverscooking.com
$–$$
Part of the newly gentrified Manor Road restaurant
row, this comfy soul-food joint features owner Hoover
Alexander’s southern Louisiana influences in a simple,
informal atmosphere. Big platters of ham steak with
jezebel sauce, jerk chicken, and chicken-fried steak are
served up with more than a dozen rotating vegetable
sides, like Moroccan-inspired carrots with orange juice,
mashed potatoes with roasted garlic, and creamed
spinach with jalapeños. Come for breakfast, lunch, or
dinner, and enjoy a cocktail too—drinks are nice and
strong. Lots of high-backed booths for dining in, or get
it to go. (East Austin)
up in a tortilla. Favorite filling
combinations include bacon,
egg, and cheese; potato,
chorizo, and cheese; and
migas and beans. Two tacos
make a meal.
Clod—if you go to a real
Texas BBQ joint, you may
be asked if you want brisket
or clod. Clod is whole beef
shoulder, a bigger, thicker
hunk of meat than brisket.
The interior doesn’t absorb
as much smoke during
cooking as the thinner
brisket, and it’s generally
a little more tender than
brisket. Clod is generally
served in chunks, while
brisket is sliced.
Mexican martini—
Essentially a giant top-shelf
margarita, served in a cocktail
shaker with a martini glass
and olive garnish so that
you can pour your own, “up.”
The most famous in town
is served at Trudy’s (409 W.
30th St., 512-477-2935). It’s
so strong that Trudy’s will cut
you off after two of them.
—Jason Horn
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211 Congress Ave., 512-472-9357
Mon.–Fri., 7 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sat.–Sun., 7 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
$
You’ll no doubt wind up here anyway during SXSW, but if for some reason
you haven’t yet, stop into this downtown Austin breakfast and brunch joint for
Mexican made from high-quality ingredients. Migas (see “Local Lingo”) with
mushrooms, menudo with marrow, chile relleno, and the Zacatecan enchiladas
are required eating. Fried plantains are also delicious. Check the board for
daily specials. (Downtown)
$
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2514 Guadalupe St., 512-472-8306; daily, 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m.
4514 West Gate Blvd., 512-899-8525; daily, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
www.madammam.com
$
Tired of barbecue and Tex-Mex? Thai food that’s nearly as good as you’ll get in
Thailand can be had at one of two locations, one (Westgate) just ten minutes
by car from downtown. The menu’s based on street-vendor and home-style
dishes, like kao soi, the famous red curry noodle soup from northern Thailand,
and keow wan pla grai, green curry with homemade fish balls. Large portions,
made from the freshest components, and small prices seduce throngs. It’s a
casual spot, with lots of close-together tables, mismatched chopsticks, and a
student crowd, especially at the Guadalupe Street location. If you’re with a big
group, send somebody ahead, or call and put your name on the list. (North and
South Austin)
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1300 W. Anderson Lane, 512-289-9262
Mon.–Sat., 8 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.–3 p.m.
www.tamaleo.com
$
Half Mexican-owned mini-mart, half bare-bones restaurant, this friendly little
discovery is known for its big Oaxacan-style tamales, steamed in banana
leaves. The lamb barbacoa (slow-cooked over an open fire) and mole are
also incredible. A little out of the way (on the north side of Austin, about 15
minutes by car from downtown), but worth it. (North Austin)
&
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2004 S. First St., 512-441–5446
Daily, 7 a.m.–11 p.m.; drinks until midnight
http://polvos.citysearch.com
$–$$
Polvo’s is arguably the best restaurant in town, at least for Tex-Mex,
and one of the most comfortable, with a big, casual outside area. Standouts
include puntas de filete (beef tips with mushrooms and corn in chipotle
chile sauce), and shrimp sautéed with lots of garlic, mushrooms, and
tequila. You’ll find big plates and little prices, with serve-yourself salsas
and verduras escabeche (spicy pickled veggies). In the morning, get
machicado—dried beef, typically served in northern Mexico, that is
shredded like thin jerky—in your breakfast tacos (see “Local Lingo”).
Eat them with a side of rajas—strips of roasted poblano chiles.
(South Austin)
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2316 S. First St., 512-462-1697
Mon.–Thurs., 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 11 a.m.–6 p.m.
www.ilovesalads.com
$
Healthy fast food isn’t an oxymoron at this burger-drive-through-turned-saladdrive-through. Choose from a handful of standard options (like the Southwest,
featuring black beans and chicken; grilled veggie; or Greek), say whether you
want it as a salad or “salad wrap,” and choose from ten homemade dressings.
Homemade soups are also on the menu. (South Austin)
3:@357=>=::=/:1/@0=<
730 W. Stassney Lane, 512-442-3095; Mon.–Thurs., 10 a.m.–10 p.m.;
Fri.–Sat., 10 a.m.–11 p.m.
:/;716=/1/</;3@1/2=
512 W. Stassney Lane, 512-916-9938; Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–9 p.m.;
Sat.–Sun., 7 a.m.–9 p.m.
$
A mesquite-grilled-chicken shack in an old drive-through burger kiosk, and a
Mexican supermarket across the street from it, El Regio and La Michoacana are
ideally enjoyed simultaneously. Here’s how: First go get beer. We recommend
the Whip In (1950 S. I-35, 512-442-5337)—it’s got the best beer selection in
town. Then send one person to La Mich to get their amazing carnitas (pork fried
in lard), gorditas (deep-fried tortillas with beans, meat, and cheese), or pork in
green sauce. Send the other to El Regio for a whole or half chicken
that’s been soaked in a citrus-chile-achiote marinade
and roasted over a mesquite fire. (Chickens
come with a whole grilled sweet onion
and frijoles a la charra—soupy pinto
beans with bacon, onion, chiles,
cilantro, and epazote. Set up
camp at the picnic tables on the
patio of El Regio. (South
Austin—highway drive)
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1415 S. Congress, 512-444-PIES (444-7737)
Mon., Wed., Thurs., 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–midnight; Sun., noon–10
p.m.; slices served 11:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. and 9:30–11 p.m. (until 3 a.m. Fri.–Sat.)
www.homeslicepizza.com
$–$$
New York–style thin-crust pizza, subs, and calzones with high-quality ingredients bring
lots of locals every night. Try the sausage pizza (mostly ricotta cheese with a little bit of
mozzarella, lots of roasted red bell pepper strips, and good Italian sausage with plenty of
fennel) or the clam pizza with béchamel sauce. Not the best pizza you’ve ever had, but
better than in most cities that aren’t New York. Dine in, or grab a slice and window-shop
South Congress’s boutiques, antiques, and garden shops. (South Austin)
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2529 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-444-0261
Mon., 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; Tues.–Fri., 7 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.–9 p.m.
www.tacoxpress.com
$
Popular cook/proprietor Maria Corbalan started out serving her crowd-pleasing tacos
in a trailer. Now she’s got a full-fledged casual restaurant and sometime music venue
with a larger-than-life-sized statue of herself with outstretched arms on top. You can’t
beat the ten (cheap) options for breakfast tacos (see “Local Lingo”); vegans will be
happy about the multivegetable options. (South Austin)
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1207 S. First St., 512-366-0537
Daily, 7 a.m.–11 p.m.
$
This taco trailer set up on an empty lot in South Austin is the property of cook Michael
Rypka, a multiyear winner of the Austin Chronicle’s annual hot-sauce competition before
he went pro. It offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner taco options, including standout pork
and green chile tacos, and a fried avocado taco that’s a vegan favorite. Eat at the picnic
table under an oak tree, or if you’re in the downtown or South of Congress Street area,
call and get it delivered via Torchy’s fleet of Vespa motor scooters. (South Austin)
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Top with the salsa of your choice.
Bring ends of tortilla together and roll slightly as if you’re rolling a joint to pack
the filling down in the middle.
! Pick up the taco by the folded-together ends and hold at a downward angle over
the plate, so that any leakage falls there, not on you.
" Start eating from the upward end and work your way down, making sure to keep
the taco angled toward the plate.
# Halfway through, squeeze the back end shut with your free hand to keep the
filling from falling out.
E=@AB1/A3A13</@7=( The bottom of the tortilla
splits and dumps the taco’s contents into your lap. To avoid
this, some taquerias use a double layer of tortillas. Purists
pooh-pooh this concept.
—Mick Vann and Jason Horn
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In Texas, barbecuing means
smoke—meats are cooked
over low heat for many hours
over live oak or post oak in
central Texas, or mesquite in
West Texas. This is done in
a brick smoker with heavy
steel doors on top, giving the
meat a deep smokiness. Beef
brisket or shoulder (a.k.a. clod)
is most common, but you can
also find beef, pork, and lamb
ribs, as well as ham, pork
chops, chicken, and sausages.
Most pit masters use a simple
spice rub instead of brining or
basting before cooking, and
the best Texas barbecue will
have a pink “smoke ring” just
inside a crisp outer layer of
meat. Texas-style sauce, which
is only added on the plate
after cooking, is less sweet
than Memphis-style and less
vinegary than Carolina-style.
It’s a tomato-and-vinegarbased creation that’s dark red
in color, spicy, and just a little
bit sweet. Texas barbecue was
originally served wrapped up
in butcher paper instead of
on a plate, and you can still
sometimes find it that way.
—Mick Vann and Jason Horn
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BBQ
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2330 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-442-8283
Daily, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
$–$$
Most ’cue houses serve spare ribs or St. Louis cut ribs.
Artz offers baby backs and thick, country-style ribs.
They also serve one of the best burgers in town and
great sandwiches (the grilled chicken with bacon and
Swiss is a favorite), and feature live acoustic music, like
old ’30s-style Texas swing, bluegrass, and folk.
(South Austin)
$
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512 W. 29th St., 512-477-1651
Daily, 11 a.m.–midnight
www.rubysbbq.com
$$
One of the only—if not the only—barbecue joints in the
area selling natural, free-range beef brisket. If they ask,
say you want it off the “chuck end” as opposed to the
“lean end.” That’s where all the fat is, and fat means
flavor. Luke Zimmerman, Ruby’s pit master, is president
of the Central Texas Barbeque Association, so he knows
what he’s doing. The sides here are a plus: wonderful
mac ’n’ cheese, collard greens, spicy chili con carne,
and Cajun dishes like gumbo, jambalaya, and étouffée.
(North Austin)
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OUT OF TOWN
Some of the best barbecue is just a stone’s throw from Austin.
Why not see what the area has to offer?
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202 S. Avenue C, Elgin
512-281-5594
Sun.–Thurs., 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 10 a.m.–10
p.m.
(call first to make sure they’re open; doors close
when they sell out)
$
A tin shack with arguably the finest barbecue in
Texas. Stand-outs are the smoky brisket, tender
ribs, succulent mutton (actually young lamb, not
old gamy meat as the name implies), and juicy chicken with
perfectly crispy skin. The house-made sausage is spicy and full
of flavorful fat, and the sauce is rich, spicy, and deep red with a hint of
sweetness. The floor is concrete, and a smoker runs the entire length of one
wall. The long communal table in the center and smaller tables around it are all
equipped with the requisite red-and-white-checked tablecloths, and the small-town
hospitality of Crosstown’s owners will make you feel like a local, though you drove
almost 45 minutes to get there from downtown Austin.
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18300 FM 1826 (at FM 967), Driftwood
512-858-4959
Daily, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Cash only
www.saltlickbbq.com
$$
Twenty-five minutes from downtown Austin in the bucolic boonies, this huge (we’re
talking 10,000 dinners on a weekend evening) barbecue joint is always packed. The
first restaurant in a chain with an outpost at the airport, the original location is set in a
rambling old building with a big barbecue pit that greets diners when they walk through
the door. (However, that’s just for show—the real smoking is done in stainless steel
somewhere else.) Nevertheless, the Salt Lick’s all-you-can-eat family-style dinners
feature reliably good brisket, ribs, and sausage, as well as massive chopped-beef
hoagies, chicken, and turkey. Locals take an ice chest of brews to drink while sitting
under the trees at the outdoor picnic tables until their table is ready.
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208 S. Commerce Street (Hwy. 183 at Cemetery St.), Lockhart
512-398-9344
Mon.–Fri., 7 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sat., 7 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Sun., 9 a.m.–3 p.m.
www.smittysmarket.com
$–$$
Brisket, sausage, pork chops, and ribs (Saturday and Sunday only) are some
of the finest in the country, and done at this old-school spot the way all Texas
’cue used to be done: in the back of a butcher shop right on the town square.
Meat butchered on the premises gets a simple rub of salt, pepper, chile pepper,
and a little garlic, and then is smoked over a long brick fire pit inside. Order
at the tiny counter, and your food comes served on a sheet of brown butcher
paper rather than a plate. Tables are covered in red-and-white-checked
oilcloth. Used to be there were only saltine crackers and slices of white
bread for sides; now there’s also beans. Sauce comes in squeeze bottles
on the tables, and eating with one’s hands is traditional. Half an hour from
downtown Austin.
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A67<3@0=19: Spoetzl Brewery, in tiny Shiner, Texas, has been making German-style beer
since the early 20th century. Now available nationwide, it can be found for cheap at almost any
Austin bar and pairs well with Mexican food, thanks to its sweetness and lack of bitterness from
hops.
@3/:/:347@3;/<¸A"0:=<23/:3: Brewed in Blanco, about 50 miles outside
of Austin, this excellent beer has a clean, refreshing smoothness and a slightly bitter finish. It’s
best enjoyed on a hot day.
A/7<B/@<=:20@=E</:3: Based in Houston, Saint Arnold bills itself as Texas’s
oldest craft brewery at 12 1/2 years old. They make an extensive line of beers, all worth trying.
The brown ale is malty and full bodied, with a toasty caramel aroma and hints of chocolate.
:7D3=/9>7:H: Live Oak makes mostly Czech-style beers in its
East Austin brewery, and serves them on tap only in central Texas and Houston.
Spicy, citrusy hops combine with a light caramel malt flavor for a wellbalanced drinking experience.
B3F/AE7<3A
Yes, there really are wines made in Texas, and some good ones
at that. The Hill Country west of Austin is home to at least 20
vineyards. Here are three of the best:
4/::1@339D7<3G/@2A1/16p #: Made from
a blend of six varietals, this white has notes of apple, pear, peach,
and melon, with a crisp, refreshing acidity.
03193@D7<3G/@2A'''1/03@<3BA/CD75<=<:
With a dark chocolate, currant, and licorice nose, and notes of cherries
and raspberries, this balanced cab is so good the White House serves it at
state dinners.
A>713E==2D7<3G/@2A #A/CD75<=<0:/<1( Light
and clean, this grapefruit-scented wine delivers pear and vanilla notes, with a
nice, lingering finish.
—Jason Horn
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606 Rio Grande St., 512-479-8117
Tues.–Thurs., 6 p.m.–9 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 6 p.m.–10 p.m.
www.aquarellerestaurant.com
$$$
A cozy converted 1920s bungalow serving impressive French-influenced
cuisine made with seasonal, market-fresh ingredients. Dishes such as rabbit
loin with artichokes and sunchokes, or cold foie gras with green grape
chutney and sancerre syrup, are elegant and delicious without being precious
or stuffy. No vertical towers of food or little drops of sauce you can’t make
use of. A great wine list with French, American, and notably Texan selections
(see “The Best Local Beer and Wine”). If you’re looking to celebrate a
special occasion, this cozy, quiet restaurant is the place to go. Reservations
recommended, especially during SXSW. (Downtown)
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604 Brazos St., 512-391-7162
Tues.–Sat., 5:30–10:30 p.m. (bar until midnight; until 2 a.m, Fri.–Sat.)
www.driskillgrill.com
$$$
An expense account is a plus here, but the cost is worth it. Exciting,
exuberant, innovative New American cuisine with Texas nods by Executive
Chef David Bull, served up in Austin’s most gorgeous, historic hotel. Standout
dishes include beef tartare with fried oysters, caviar, and hot mustard;
pistachio-crusted scallop with chanterelles; and veal tenderloin with
sweetbreads, papardelle pasta, and mornay sauce. Be sure to check out the
bar as well. During SXSW, it’s packed with entertainment-industry bigwigs
(see “Power Bars”). (Downtown)
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801 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-916-4808
Sun.–Thurs., 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat., 5:30–11 p.m. (bar opens at 5 p.m.)
$$–$$$
We know what you’re thinking: Fusion, sushi, and Texas are three words
that sound really scary together. But trust us: The bluefin belly meat
with dried cranberries, almond slivers, and white soy is great. So is the
yellowtail with ponzu, shiso oil, and Thai chiles. Executive Chef Tyson
Cole has garnered major attention (like being named one of Food &
Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs of 2005). But his fusion sushi really
does live up to the hype, and he also does traditional combos. Colorful
digs in a comfortable old house, impeccable service, a superb bar, and
food that looks like art. (South Austin)
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1610 S. Congress Ave., 512-441-6100
Tues.–Sun., 5:30–10:30 p.m. (bar, 5 p.m.–midnight)
$$–$$$
One of Austin’s busiest restaurants, with crowd-pleasing Italian
dishes such as mascarpone risotto with lamb loin and fresh peas, and
butternut squash ravioli with sage and an amaretto butter sauce. A
full bar, a deep wine list, friendly service, and a no-reservation policy
guarantee there’s always a wait. Co-owner Alan Lazarus was a chef for
Whole Foods Market before opening Vespaio in 1998. Eat at the bar if
you’re short on time, or do like the locals do and enjoy a glass of wine
and a plate of antipasti at its more casual sister restaurant, Enoteca
Vespaio, next door while you wait for a table. (South Austin)
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There’s something going
on all day and all night
at SXSW. How do you
stay awake? “The most
important thing is to
make sure you get 7 to
8 hours of sleep per 24,”
says Dr. Gregory Belenky,
director of Washington
State University’s Sleep
and Performance Research
Center. But they don’t
have to be consecutive
nighttime hours. The body’s
temperature fluctuates
naturally throughout the
day, and it’s easiest to fall
asleep when it drops. You
can take advantage of a
natural body-temperature
decrease in the late
afternoon by getting in a
quick “disco nap” between
work and partying. There is
even evidence that splitting
up your sleep periods
can actually enhance
performance.
If you absolutely have to
go without sleep, caffeine
BREAKFAST
AND LATE NIGHT
"
0=C:27<1@3391=44336=CA3
1501 S. First St., 512-416-1601
Mon.–Fri., 7 a.m.–midnight; Sat.–Sun., 9 a.m.–midnight
www.bouldincreek.com
$
Bouldin Creek is an old-fashioned, friendly place
that caters to a bohemian crowd. Located in a brightly
painted old house, it’s a great place to catch up on a
novel or use the free WiFi while sampling the excellent
vegetarian food. Breakfast is available all day. Try
“Aaric’s baked oatmeal,” a hearty dish with apples,
cinnamon, butter, brown sugar, and raisins, or the fluffy
house omelette, filled with garlic, veggies, and cheese.
There’s also a fine selection of board games if you’re
looking to kill an hour or two. (South Austin)
#
:/A;/<7B/A
211 Congress Ave., 512-472-9357
Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sat.–Sun., 7 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
$
See “Casual,” page 8.
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1920 S. Congress Ave., 512-445-0000; 24 hours,
both locations
2304 Lake Austin Blvd., 512-478-8645
www.cafemagnolia.com
$
93@03G:/<31/43
3704 Kerbey Lane, 512-451-1436; 24 hours, all locations
2700 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-445-4451
2606 Guadalupe St., 512-477-5717
www.kerbeylanecafe.com
$–$$
Ask almost anybody in Austin where to eat, and they’ll
probably mention Magnolia Cafe and Kerbey Lane Cafe,
both with more than one location. Although the food at
either restaurant won’t win any James Beard awards,
both menus are extensive, and offer lots of vegetarian
and vegan options for breakfast, late night, and any hour
in between. Kerbey Lane is better overall, with good coffee and fluffier pancakes, but Magnolia offers what might
just be the best post-drinking snack: steak fries topped
with Italian tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. It’s
also famous for its Mag Mud, a spicy black-bean dip with
chips. We like Kerbey Lane’s fried cheesecake-stuffed
taco with ice cream. And we prefer the original Kerbey
Lane location, which, shockingly enough, is found on
Kerbey Lane. (North and South Austin)
B/1=F>@3AA
2529 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-444-0261
Mon., 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; Tues.–Fri., 7 a.m.–9 p.m.;
Sat., 8 a.m.–9 p.m.
www.tacoxpress.com
$
See “Fleet Eats,” page 11.
6=EB=AB/GC>
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helps. But keep in mind
that the more you consume,
the worse job it will do at
keeping you awake. Skip
it until you really need
it. Instead of a morning
latte, drink coffee at night
when you’re out on the
town. Caffeine goes to
work anywhere from 15
to 45 minutes after you
consume it, and the buzz
will last for three to four
hours, so plan accordingly.
Belenky also recommends
moving around as a way
to stimulate the brain and
stave off sleepiness. Walk
instead of taking a cab. Get
out on the dance floor. And
don’t drink too much. Not
only will booze make you
tired, but it will also cause
sleep disturbances as it
wears off—passed-outdrunk sleep is less effective
than sober sleep.
—Jason Horn
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409 Colorado St., 512-476-1320
1120 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-476-1320
Call for showtimes.
www.drafthouse.com
A movie theater with table service offering beer, wine, mixed drinks, and
really good food, Alamo brings up the question: Why hasn’t this concept taken
off across the country? Food like pizza, burgers, and brownies with espresso
in them is served at a narrow table that runs the full length of the row. Movies
are mainstream (at the time of this writing, Casino Royale was showing), and
big-name directors often prescreen flicks here and take audience questions
afterward (Quentin Tarantino makes regular appearances). Watch for special
theme nights when food is paired to a movie’s subject matter. There are
several locations, including one downtown, but the original, biggest, and
most popular theater is on South Lamar Boulevard in South Austin.
(Downtown and South Austin)
&
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3500 Guadalupe, 512-458-6895
Sun.–Thurs., 11:30 a.m.–midnight; Fri.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m.
www.amysicecream.com
An Austin institution with 13 locations (including shops on Guadalupe, Sixth
Street, and South Congress, all in the downtown area), Amy’s serves fun
flavors like Guinness, honey ginger, and chipotle peanut butter. As in the
national Coldstone Creamery chain, servers flick and smack around the ice
cream with mixed-in ingredients on a marble slab before giving it to you,
which some (like children) find delightful. Others find it annoying. All will
forget about it when they take their first bite. (North Austin)
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4001 N. Lamar Blvd., 512-206-1000
Daily, 8 a.m.–9 p.m.
Central Market Cafe: Sun.–Thurs., 7 a.m.–9 p.m.
Fri.–Sat., 7 a.m.–10 p.m.
www.centralmarket.com
Austin’s Central Market, the flagship location of the popular Texas grocery
store chain, is big. How big? It has a 75-foot-long seafood counter with 100
varieties of saltwater and freshwater seafood, 18,000 square feet of fresh
produce with over 600 varieties of fruits and vegetables, 800 cheeses from
around the world, 2,500 different wines, 350 different beers, 100 varieties of
flowers, 70 varieties of artisanal breads baked fresh daily, and a meat counter
with 30 varieties of house-made sausage. Given these stats, it’s no wonder
that Austin’s 70,000-square-foot Central Market is a popular destination for
both locals and tourists. Whether you’re taking a cooking class, kicking back in
the café and listening to live music, or shopping for treats, like most of Austin,
you’ll find yourself staying awhile. (North Austin)
!
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525 N. Lamar Blvd., 512-476-1206
Daily, 8 a.m.–10 p.m.
www.wholefoodsmarket.com
The massive flagship of the Whole Foods grocery store chain, which first
opened in Austin in 1980, is 80,000 square feet and features a chocolate
café with a chocolate fountain you can dip fruit and cookies into, a Pike
Street Market-esque fish market, an ice cream/gelato shop, a smokehouse,
a wine bar, a massive prepared-foods area, and over 600 cheeses. Like the
San Francisco Marina Safeway of Armistead Maupin’s Tales of the City, this WF
is a notorious Austin pick-up scene for 20- and 30-somethings, as well as a
date spot where couples move from mini-restaurant to mini-restaurant and
make a night of it. While you’re in the neighborhood, check out Book People
across the street, the largest independent bookstore in Texas, and the famous
indie record shop Waterloo Records nearby at 600A N. Lamar Blvd. (Downtown)
4==22@7<94C<
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BARS
97197<¸7B! >=E3@0/@A!$
!
4==22@7<94C<
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BARS
KICKIN’ IT
!
!
03BAG¸A0/@B6367:=
301 W. Sixth St., 512-480-9433
Betsy’s, daily, 8 p.m.–2 a.m.; Hi-Lo, Wed.–Sat., 8 p.m.–2 a.m.
$–$$
It’s two, two, two bars in one! Betsy’s Bar features overstuffed antique
furniture, a laid-back crowd, and two Atari game consoles. This is the kind
of place where you can carry on a conversation with friends and never want
to leave. Better during the week when the upscale swingers from the
connected Hi-Lo don’t spill in. Accessed through the doorway, the Hi-Lo
exudes a curvilinear swank, suede-covered ’70s vibe, with top-shelf cocktails
and a beautiful crowd. (Downtown)
!
1/A7<=3:1/;7<=
517 E. Sixth St., 512-469-9330
Daily, 4 p.m.–2 a.m.
www.casinoelcamino.net
A neighborhood-style bar in the midst of hectic Sixth Street that manages
to attract both the after-work crowd and those sporting extreme ink. If you’re
lucky, local circus sideshow man Mr. Lifto may be tending bar and lifting beer
kegs with his nipples. Serves up the best hamburgers in Austin, along with
giant orders of fries, but it can take a while. Order at the grill window, then
relax with a cocktail or hit the excellent jukebox. (Downtown)
!!
1:C023D7::3
900 Red River St., 512-457-0900
Tues.–Fri., 5 p.m.–2 a.m.; Sat.–Mon., 7 p.m.–2 a.m.
www.myspace.com/clubdeville
Arguably the most magical outdoor patio in a city where bar patios are
standard, Club de Ville’s is set beneath a gorgeous, naturally occurring
limestone cliff face. (It’s also decked out with Christmas-tree lights, ample
seating, and a great stage where live music is often featured.) Enjoy one of
the well-made cocktails and contemplate the Paleozoic Era in an atmo that
attracts an artsy-hipster crowd. Conveniently located a few short blocks from
the conference center. (Downtown)
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1315 S. Congress Ave., 512-441-2444
Tues.–Fri., 4 p.m.–2 a.m.; Sat.–Sun.,
9 p.m.–2 a.m.
www.continentalclub.com/Austin.html
$–$$
Opened in 1957 and still going strong, the Continental was picked by Playboy as
one of the best bars in the United States. A big room with great live music in the
retro, rockabilly, country, swing vein, and a rocking happy hour. (South Austin)
!#
B6357<53@;/<
304 W. Fourth St., 512-473-8801
Mon.–Fri., 2 p.m.–2 a.m.; Sat.–Sun, 1 p.m.–2 a.m.
www.gingermanpub.com/austin
$$
The best-stocked beer bar in Austin, if not Texas: about 120 bottled
selections of craft brews and micros (with only a few of those
macros), and 76-odd selections on tap (kept at two different
temps) from all over the world. Try a Hacker-Pschorr Oktoberfest,
Rogue Shakespeare Stout, or Westmalle Tripel. It can get crowded.
(Downtown)
!$
B638/19/:=>3
404 E. Sixth St., 512-469-5801
Daily, 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.
http://jackalopeaustin.com/
$
A friendly dive with a punk-rock edge, the Jackalope is a favorite
for its central location, reliably strong drinks, and superior bar chow
(blackened burgers with blue cheese, jerk-chicken hoagie, chipotle
wings). Inside is red-padded leather, painted-on-velvet nudes, and
pool tables. Outside is a patio with a fire pit. (Downtown)
4==22@7<94C<
!!
BARS
KICKIN’ IT
!%
B63;=6/E9
912 Red River St., 512-482-8404
Tues.–Sat., Grizzly Bar, Happy Hour, 5–8 p.m.;
the Mohawk Main Club, 8 p.m.–2 a.m. (when there’s live music)
www.mohawkaustin.com
Club de Ville’s neighbor the Mohawk has not one but two outdoor patios
(upstairs and out back), a fireplace, a dance floor, and three stages often
featuring live music and local DJs. The bar’s website describes the décor,
all made out of reused hardwoods, as “woodsy recycled Texas ski lodge.”
CHOW likes the Mohawk so much that we’re throwing our SXSW party there.
(Downtown)
OUT OF TOWN
!&
!"
B63:C193<0/160/@
412 Luckenbach Town Loop, Fredericksburg
830-997-3224 or 888-311-8990
Mon.–Fri., 10 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sun., noon–9 p.m. (sometimes open later)
www.luckenbachtexas.com/lbt/html/Bar.html
Enter through the back door of this defunct Wild West–era post office,
and you’ll find cowboys pickin’ tunes in a space smaller than
your hotel room beneath taxidermied deer heads. In the
winter, you might get treated to some deer sausage
cooked on the wood-burning iron stove. The town
of Luckenbach (population 3, according to the
sign at its city limits) is like something out
of Deadwood and well worth the nearly
90-minute road trip from Austin.
6=EB=2@7<9;=@3
1. Eat fatty foods before boozing. Your liver can only process roughly one drink per hour.
More than that, and the alcohol ends up in your bloodstream and brain, making you dance like
an idiot and causing all the other effects, pleasant and un-, of heavy drinking. With food in your
stomach, the alcohol gets sent to your intestines and liver over a longer period of time, giving
them a better chance of processing it. Fatty foods stay in the stomach longer than those high
in carbohydrates, so the effect will last well into the night.
2. Order a glass of water with each drink (and drink it!). Alcohol has a diuretic effect on
the body—that’s why you have to pee so much when you’re drinking, losing about twice as
much liquid as you’re actually consuming. In fact, one of the chief causes of hangovers is
dehydration. Drinking water not only keeps you hydrated, but it also makes you feel full, forcing
you to drink more slowly and giving your liver more time to process the alcohol.
3. Drink a negroni. Bitter drinks (like a negroni, which contains Campari; a Manhattan, with
vermouth and bitters; or an IPA beer) aren’t as chuggable as sweet ones. The more time you
spend sipping, the more chance your liver has to combat the alcohol you’re flooding it with.
4. Stick to drinks you can see through. Red wine and brown spirits (tequila, whiskey, dark
rum) have higher levels of congeners—chemical compounds that worsen hangovers—than
lighter-colored tipples like white wine, vodka, and gin. Try not to mix too many different kinds
of alcohol, either. That will increase the likelihood of coming into contact with more congeners.
But that old saying “Beer before liquor, never been sicker; liquor before beer, you’re in the
clear”? There’s no science at all behind it. The only thing that matters is how much and how
long you drink, not the order you drink it in.
5. Take vitamin B6 and avoid aspirin. B6 lessens hangover symptoms, while aspirin taken
before drinking actually puts more alcohol into the bloodstream. Take aspirin the next morning,
but not while you’re out.
6. Know thyself. Pay attention to how much you’ve drunk, and when you get close to your
limit, switch to water or soda and stay there. Whatever you do, don’t drink more after throwing
up. That’s how people get alcohol poisoning.
—Jason Horn
4==22@7<94C<
!#
BARS
POWER BARS
!'
B630@=E<0/@
201 W. Eighth St., 512-480-8330
Mon.–Tues., 4 p.m.–midnight; Wed.–Fri., 4 p.m.–2 a.m.; Sat., 5:30 p.m.–2 a.m.
www.thebrownbar.com
$$–$$$
An Austin bar striving for big-city impact, the Brown Bar serves specialty martinis
($8 and up) and the best mojitos in town in swanky shades-of-brown décor to
beautiful people and those who aspire to be. (Downtown)
2@7A97::0/@
604 Brazos St., 512-391-7162
Tues.–Sat., 5:30-10:30 (bar until midnight, Fri. & Sat. 2 a.m.)
www.driskillgrill.com/
$$$
A favorite of the record label folks, the bar of this gorgeous historic Texas hotel
is quite a scene on the nights of SXSW. The smell of freshly baked chocolate chip
cookies put out by the hotel staff mingles with herbal aromas wafting from closed
doors, and rich, artsy types with expensive haircuts get drunk in the amber
lighting on buttery leather seats. An all-encompassing wine list and great food
(see “Splurge”) make it even better. (Downtown)
"
!$
4=C@A3/A=<A6=B3:(B63:=00G:=C<53
98 San Jacinto Blvd., 512-478-4500
Mon.–Thurs., 1 p.m.–1 a.m.; Fri.–Sat., 11 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun., 10 a.m.–midnight
www.fourseasons.com/austin
$$–$$$
Hobnob with the high-flyers over lychee martinis (yeah, they’re still serving them
in Texas), truffled popcorn, and tuna sashimi on the patio overlooking the lake.
That’s Town Lake, the verdant public water hole made from the damming of the
Colorado. Stake out your table early! (Downtown)
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701 Congress Ave., 512-583-0000
Daily, 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.
www.roaringforkaustin.com
$$
A Western-themed watering hole on the street level of the beautiful old
InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, the Roaring Fork does one better than your
typical hotel bar with its drinks and food. It’s a popular gathering spot for the afterwork crowd from the capital and downtown districts, so expect to see some Dockers.
Try the huckleberry margarita or the Big-Ass Burger: 12 ounces of juicy, aged, woodgrilled beef loaded with cheddar and toppings. (Happy hour is 4:30–7 p.m. daily for
half-price apps and drink specials.) (Downtown)
!%
6/<5=D3@1C@3A
While the Annals of Internal Medicine says, “There is no consensus definition
of veisalgia,” most of us know a hangover when we see it. You’re dehydrated.
The brain shrinks away from the skull and the blood vessels in the head expand,
causing headaches. The body’s capillaries shrink, leading to mild hypothermia,
or that clammy feeling. As the alcohol makes its way through the small
intestine, you get nauseous. Alcohol breaks down into acetaldehyde,
which the body attempts to expel because it’s toxic. Fat builds up in
the liver, which swells, reducing blood flow and preventing toxins
from being flushed from the body. And finally, alcohol inhibits the
synthesis of glutamate, one of the body’s stimulants. At first,
this inhibition makes the imbiber feel nice and mellow, but as
the alcohol wears off, the body overcompensates for the lack of
glutamate by producing more of it. This prevents deep sleep and
can cause early-morning insomnia.
Here’s how you can ease the pain:
>/7<97::3@A Duh, right? Not so fast: There are some
caveats. First, make sure the painkiller isn’t acetaminophen, which,
according to the FDA, can cause liver damage in combination with
alcohol. Ibuprofen and naproxen sodium are better, but can cause
stomach bleeding and lead to kidney damage if used for longer
than two weeks. Aspirin, taken with milk and food, may be the best
over-the-counter option, but it can also cause stomach bleeding
when used long term in combination with alcohol. And don’t take
it before you drink: Studies have shown that it makes people get
drunk faster, especially women.
E/B3@Common sense says that if alcohol causes
dehydration, then water is the cure. But not too much water, which
can lead to hyponatremia, or “water intoxication,” which dilutes
the sodium in the body and can be fatal. Fruit juice may be a better
option because it contains fructose, which may speed up the rate at
which the body rids itself of toxins.
!>327/:GB3 Yes, it’s for babies that have diarrhea. In liquid
or in “freezer pop” form, Pedialyte contains more electrolytes
than Powerade or Gatorade, rehydrating you more quickly. Enough
hangovers, and you may even develop a preference for fruit, grape,
or bubblegum flavor (Pedialyte also comes in unflavored liquid).
!&
"B/C@7<3 A common ingredient in energy drinks like Red Bull and also available in
supplement form, taurine has been shown in studies to reverse liver damage caused by a
night of heavy drinking, helping the body to flush out toxins more quickly. The large amounts of
caffeine in energy drinks also help constrict cerebral blood vessels, alleviating that headache
the next day; however, caffeine is a diuretic and may exacerbate dehydration. Meat, poultry,
eggs, dairy products, and fish are other good sources of taurine.
#4@7324==2 Even if there weren’t evidence to back up the benefits of a greasy
breakfast, it would qualify as a hangover treatment simply because it’s so comforting. But two
elements of a fried breakfast have some scientific backing: Both egg yolks and garlic contain
cysteine, an amino acid that binds and neutralizes acetaldehyde. And all those carbohydrates
help stabilize blood sugar and neutralize stomach acids.
$;/@;7B3=@D353;7B3=<B=/AB Made from brewer’s yeast, Marmite and
Vegemite both contain vitamin B complex, folic acid, and salt, all of which are depleted after
alcohol consumption. Despite rumors to the contrary, Vegemite is not banned in the U.S., but it
can be hard to find in stores. It is easily ordered online.
%57<53@ A long-trusted anti-nausea treatment, ginger has also been shown to be a
powerful antioxidant and anticoagulant. Whether taken in pill form, in tea, or in a juice, it may
counteract some of that hangover wooziness. Be aware: Fresh ginger can irritate the stomach
lining, so it should never be taken straight on an empty stomach.
&6=<3G Like fruit juice, honey has a lot of fructose and glucose, and it’s full of
antioxidants, which makes it the ideal hangover remedy, spread on toast. In Poland, they mix
the honey into a little pickle juice. (The salt replenishes electrolytes.) Yum.
'A=C>AAC16/A;3<C2=>=CB7<36/38/<55C9>6==@
0=@A16BSoups hold an honored place as hangover cures in many countries, with various
ingredients, such as tomatoes, cabbage, and tripe, ascribed medicinal qualities. Medicine or no
medicine, soup will certainly rehydrate the dehydrated, pump up the protein and blood-sugar
levels, and slow the rate of alcohol absorption. The vegetables will offer some nutrition, and
the heat and spices will make you sweat, releasing toxins.
6/<5=D3@>7::AClassified as dietary supplements (so they’re not regulated)
and sold under names like Sob’r-K Hangover Stopper, Soberfast, RU-21, Rebound, and Uncle
Rummie’s Hangover Helper, these hangover treatments mostly rely on pharmaceutical-grade
activated carbon or charcoal, which can be used to treat alcohol poisoning. Although no
independent studies have been done, some people swear by them. Others point out that the
pills contain so little activated charcoal that they may well have no effect.
—Traci Vogel
4==22@7<94C<
!'
6=EB=1==9/
5=C@;3B;3/:7<
G=C@6=B3:@==;
Warning: Coffee makers and irons are not intended and should
not be used to do anything other than make coffee and take
wrinkles out of clothes, respectively. This article is for humor
purposes only. But these instructions really do work.
27<<3@
1. Set the iron to the highest setting with the steam turned off.
2. Fill a coffee filter with six broccoli florets. Load into the
coffee maker. Run six cups of water through for tender but still
crisp veggies.
3. Put 1/2 cup of instant rice per person in the coffee maker.
Run the appropriate amount of water (check the box for
instructions) through the coffee maker, then leave the machine
turned on for 5 to 10 minutes until the rice is fully cooked.
4. Season four large scallops per person on both sides with salt
and pepper, and place between two sheets of foil. Place the hot
iron on top of the foil and press down to sear lightly for 1 to 2
minutes per side.
5. Dice one small shallot into the coffee maker. Load two
to four sprigs of fresh thyme into the filter basket without a
filter, then run 1 cup of cream and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice
through the coffee maker together. Season with salt and
pepper, and allow the sauce to reduce over the hot plate for
15 to 20 minutes. Just before serving, add 1 tablespoon diced
butter and swirl to melt. (Note: Coffee maker will require heavy
cleaning afterward.)
"
6. Use a clean disposable razor to shave black truffle over the
plated rice, scallops, and broccoli, then pour sauce over each
plate. Garnish with thyme.
7. For dessert, heat 1/2 cup cream in the coffee maker. Add
a 12-ounce bag of good bittersweet chocolate chips and
stir constantly until melted and smooth. Serve with whole
strawberries, sliced banana, pound cake, dried apricots,
and marshmallows for dipping.
0@3/94/AB
1. Heat the iron.
2. Cut bacon strips in half, then place between foil sheets
with the edges crimped together to seal in grease. Iron the
bacon, opening one side of the foil packet every few minutes
to check for doneness and allow steam to escape. Slightly
crisp bacon takes about 10 minutes.
3. Prop up the iron so that the flat part faces straight up, create
a foil “boat,” and place on top of the iron. Grease with bacon
fat, and crack one to two eggs into it. When cooked enough to
hold together—7 to 10 minutes on a small iron—flip eggs over
and cook to desired doneness. Serve with bacon and coffee
(made the normal way in the coffee maker).
—Jason Horn
"
7<23F
Alamo Drafthouse Cinemas ....................................................................................... 28
Amy’s Ice Cream ...................................................................................................... 28
Aquarelle ................................................................................................................ 18
Artz Rib House.......................................................................................................... 14
Aquarelle ................................................................................................................. 18
Baby Greens ............................................................................................................ 10
Betsy’s Bar/The Hi-Lo ............................................................................................... 32
Bouldin Creek Coffeehouse ....................................................................................... 20
The Brown Bar ......................................................................................................... 36
Casino el Camino ..................................................................................................... 32
Central Market Flagship Store .................................................................................. 29
Club de Ville ............................................................................................................. 32
Continental Club ....................................................................................................... 33
Crosstown BBQ ........................................................................................................ 15
Driskill Bar ............................................................................................................... 36
Driskill Grill .............................................................................................................. 18
El Borrego de Oro #2 ..................................................................................................6
El Gringo ....................................................................................................................6
El Regio Pollo al Carbon ........................................................................................... 10
Four Seasons Hotel: Lobby Lounge ............................................................................ 36
The Ginger Man ....................................................................................................... 33
Güero’s ......................................................................................................................7
Home Slice Pizza ..................................................................................................... 11
Hoover’s Cooking........................................................................................................7
The Jackalope .......................................................................................................... 33
Kerbey Lane Cafe ..................................................................................................... 21
La Michoacana Mercado ........................................................................................... 10
Las Manitas ......................................................................................................... 8, 20
The Luckenbach Bar ................................................................................................. 34
Madam Mam’s ...........................................................................................................8
Magnolia Cafe .......................................................................................................... 21
The Mohawk ............................................................................................................ 34
Oaxacan Tamaleo .......................................................................................................9
Polvo’s .......................................................................................................................9
Roaring Fork Saloon ................................................................................................ 37
Ruby’s BBQ .............................................................................................................. 14
The Salt Lick ............................................................................................................ 15
Smitty’s Market ........................................................................................................ 16
Taco Xpress ....................................................................................................... 11, 21
Torchy’s Tacos .......................................................................................................... 11
Uchi ......................................................................................................................... 19
Vespaio .................................................................................................................... 19
Whole Foods Market Flagship Store .......................................................................... 29
"
E63@3¸A
B6303AB
=:2A16==:
B3F;3F7<
/CAB7<-
/A916=E6=C<2
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