tubular sukkah - Temple Isaiah

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TUBULAR SUKKAH
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16x24
ASSEMBLY GUIDE
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~---------Steve Henry WoodCraft· Chapel Hilt, NC • www.sukkotcom • stevehen@sukkotcom ~ 919-489-7325
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16x24 Tubular Sukkah Assembly
This Manual provides instructions for assembling a 16x24 tubular frame sukkah. The
sukkah should be built on ground that is reasonably level; it can stand on grass, pavement, or a deck. Reqiuirements for building a ritually-correct sukkah can be found on the next-to-Iast page: \\On Building a Kosher Sukkah". • Check to see that your kit contains the following parts:
corner
fittings :
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TEE
fittings:
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4- wa y
fittings:
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SUKKAHSCREEN:
One 34ft panel
TUBING & SLATS:
93in pipe: 18
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Foot
pads :
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One 43ft panel
71in pipe: 20
L
fittings:
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Straight
fittings:
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10
2 bags of Bungee loops
96" bamboo slats: 24 (+48 ties)
Anything missing? Call 919-489-7325 and we'll send it right out.
Note: If you prefer to locate the doorway opening on the 24ft side, see
instructions on the last page.
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Building the 16x24 Tubular Sukkah: Do these steps on a flat surface so pipes and fittings stay in the same plane.
1) Pre-assemble 12ft pipe sections:
Use Straight fittings to link together two 71in pipes to create uh pipe sections that look like this:
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pipes meet in the center. HAND-tighten.
2) Assemble base:
Assemble the base perimeter of the sukkah using 93" and uh pipe sections, corner fittings, L fittings and TEEs. Refer to the diagram below showing the arrangement for your size sukkah. Re. TEE fittings: Make sure that each of the pipes is inserted to the MIDPOINT of the fitting, and orient the Tee fitting so that the thumbscrew on the vertical tube faces the INSIDE of the sukkah. This will keep it from interfering with the wall fabric cov­
ering the outside of the frame. HAND-tighten thumbscrews.
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Note: Door opening can be placed on the
right or left side of
either end wall.
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side wall
3) Pre-assemble posts:
a) Corner posts: Assemble 4 corner posts
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by inserting a 93" pipe into each of four corner fittings,
and tighten the thumbscrew holding the fitting to the pipe.
Loosen the other two thumbscrews in preparation for later assembly steps
b) Mid-wall posts: Prepare 4 mid-wall posts by inserting 93" pipes into 4-way fittings as shown. Tighten the thumbscrew holding the fitting to the pipe. Loosen the other three thumbscrews in preparation for later assembly steps
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4) Assemble end walls:
a) Insert a corner post at each corner of the base and tighten thumbscrews. Be carefu l with
the corner post that sits in the L-fitting, as it will topple over if the thumbscrews are not tight.
b) Insert a mid-wall post at the center of each end wall, and ...
c) hold it in place while you connect the top of this post to both of the corner posts using 93"
pipes. Make sure that each of the pipes is inserted fully into the corner fittings
and to the MIDPOINT of the 4-way fittings.
Again, be careful with the post that sits in the L-fitting, as it will topple over if the thumb­
screws are not tight.
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5) Begin roof assembly:
a) Insert Mid-wall posts in the open Tee fittings in the base, and ...
b) hold these in place while you attach them to the corner posts with 12ft pipes. Make sure that each of the pipes is inserted fully into the corner fittings
and to the MIDPOINT of the 4-way fittings. p- - . -' . -' ~F '
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6) Complete roof assembly: a) Assemble a Center post by attaching a s-Way fitting
to one end of a 93in pipe and a Foot pad to the other end.
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If you have
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ting pipes to
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fittings, loosen :
some of the
adjacent fittings:
to free up some I
slack. A rubber I
mallet can be
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helpful in \\per- I
suading" pipes I
into fitti ngs,
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but do not hit I
any thumbI
screws.
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b) Connect the Center post to the two 4-Way fittings on
the side walls with 93in pipes. IMPORTANT: Make sure the
two 93" pipes meet at the center of the s-way fitti ng (ie
each one penetrates not more or less than halfway)
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c) Slide one end of a 12ft pi pes to can nect the center post
to the 4-way fittings in the end walls.
7) Tighten up:
When all the pipes are in place, make sure all connections are fully seated and tighten
up all thumbscrews by hand. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN--Just get 'em nice and snug.
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8) Attach SukkahScreen™ wall covering:
a) Connect one end of a SukkahScreen panel to one of your doorposts. Use one bungee loop in each of the brass grommets at the edge of the fabric (insert end of bungee loop through the grommet, stretch --->~
it around the corner post, then circle the loop end around the plastic ball). SAFETY NOTE: Bungee balls can pack a wallop and should
be handled with care. Do not position yourself in the
path of a stretched bungee. Do not over-stretch.
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b) Wrap the SukkahScreen around the frame
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as far as it goes, attaching it with bungee
loops at top and bottom as you go. It may
be easiest to pull the fabric around the first
corner and secure it with a top and a bot­
tom bungee in the first grommet after the
corner, then do the same for the reniaining
corners . Now go back and attach the rest of
the bungees, pulling out all the slack in the
fabric as you go .
c) Do the same thing with your second
SukkahScreen panel, starting from
the other doorpost and working in
the opposite direction. The two pan­
els should overlap a bit at their ends .
PROTECTYOUR SUKKAH FROM WIND DAMAGE:
Whenever possible the sukkah should be erected on a site sheltered from prevailing winds. If expo­
sure to strong winds is likely, one of the following steps should be taken to anchor the sukkah:
1) For a sukkah built on pavement, SANDBAGS can be placed at the base of each cornerpost, on top
of the corner fittings. Sandbags can be obtained from us at www.thesukkahproject.com
2) Stakes can be driven into the ground at each vertical post, and tied or clamped to the frame. Short
sections of inexpensive "REBAR" (steel reinforcing bar) can be used, or heavy-duty stakes can be
obtained from us at www.thesukkahproject.com.
3) A sukkah built on a wooden deck can be anchored down at the corners with "3/4 inch EMT CON­
DUIT STRAPS". These are available in the electrical section of any building supplies store. Use the
"2-hole" version.
If you have advance warning that a strong windstorm is imminent, it is a good idea to detach the
bungee loops holding the SukkahScreen at the top of the walls and let it lie on the ground until
the storm has passed.
9) Attach bamboo roof poles: Make sure nobody is inside the sukkah while doing this step,
as the loose end of a pole can easily fall. The roof poles come with holes drilled at each end for fastening the pole to the pipe with RE-USABLE PLASTIC TI ES. Insert ties through the holes on each end of the pole and attach pole to the pipe as shown. FOR EASIER REMOVAL, DO NOT PULL LOOP TOO TIGHT. The 96" poles run in continuous rows from one 24ft wall to the other. The pOSitioning or spc
poles depends on whether the roof will be covered with Greenery (branches, palm fronds, et
with Bamboo Mats. (rhe mats must be oriented so that the bamboo slats are PERPENDICUI
the wood slats. We recommend using eight 6'x8' mats for a 16x24 Sukkah).
FOR GREENERY:
Start from both ends. Position slats at 21 inches from each corner post, and then work down
walls toward the middle, placing the remaining slats at 21 inch intervals. Using these as a
extend the row of slats from the middle roof beam to the other side wall of the sukkah . To m
a greenery roof, use the largest branches for the first layer, placing them perpendicular to the
slats. This will creat a grid that can be covered with smaller pieces of greenery.
FOR 6x8 BAMBOO MATS:
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Place slats at the inner end of both corner fittings, at both ends of the Tee fitting in the cente
the wall, and at both ends of the two straight connectors as shown above. Place the other fOL
midway in the large spaces between these connectors. Using these as a guide, extend the rov
slats from the middle roof beam to the other side wall of the sukkah. The resulting pattern wi
vide each 6ft wide mat with support approximately 6in from each end and at the center. Rol
mats from each 24ft wall to the center beam .
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Disassembly & Storage Disassembly is in reverse order of original assembly:
1) Remove all decorations, roof covering and roof slats.
2) Remove SukkahScreen.
3) Beginning at the end of the sukkah where the doorway is located, loosen the
thumbscrews holding the 12ft long center roof beam and carefully remove it (make
sure nobody is hanging around inside the structure while doing this). Then remove
the two 93" pipes at the top of the end wall and remove the midwall (door) post.
4) Work your way a section at a time down to the other end of the sukkah, removing
the, horizontal pipes . mid-wall posts, center posts. and when these are down re­
move the corner posts. If storage room permits, keep the 12ft pipes, corner posts
and midwall posts intact to speed assembly next year.
6) Disassemble the base unit.
Storage:
• Bind up the wood slats in a tight bundle and store in a dry place to avoid warping.
• Gather bungee balls and store in plastic bag to keep from losing them.
• The SukkahScreen may be rolled up or folded.
• Tie together the pipes, and store these and the fittings in a dry location.
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Q:<What is the Hebrew 'Nord for the day the Sukkah is taken down?
. TI P: For a long-lasting sukkah, take itdown as soon as possible after the Festival. ''. '
Our Guarantee and Return Policies:
• Unused kits may be returned within TWO WEEKS of receipt. Refunds will be granted for the
purchase price minus shipping charges a'nd .1 5% restocking fee. Please call us (919-489-7325) for
authorization before returning a sukkah kit.
• Our kits are made with heavy-duty materials, and we will replace without charge any component
that is defective. However, a sukkah is by definition a structure vulnerable to the elements, and
we can not assume responsibility for wind damage. Refer to the section on "Wind Precautions "
for advice on how to minimize risk. We will gladly assist in restoration of a wind-damaged
sukkah, which can most likely be accomplished at modest cost.