march - Cincinnati Auto Replicas

Car Times
www.cincinnatiautoreplicas.org Over 26 Years of Model Building
The Official Publication of the Cincinnati Auto Replicas Model Car Club
March 2011
Remembering Chrome, Fins, and American Classics
The Fabulous 1950’s
From the Editor’s Desk….
The 1950’s were truly an era of excess. It is an era that defines us even today. Huge tail
lamps, massive chrome grills and bumpers, and of course massive white wall tires. The Saturday
night cruise was born. Then seemingly overnight it disappeared. The massive fins of the 1959
Cadillac were dramatically shortened in 1960. Cruising gave way to high performance muscle
cars, and the rock and roll of Elvis and the Everly Brothers became the new sound of the Beetles
and the Rolling Stones. White Walls became red lines, raised letters, and black walls. And the
excess of the ‘50’s became the excess of the ‘60’s. Jeff
The Prez Sez…
Greetings Model Citizens!
Not a lot to report this month, Trying to work on two models, one in paint, one in build-up
and sanding plaques for CC16. The biggest news, or at least for those of you who were not at last
month’s meeting or received the email notice is that C.A.R. has been invited to do a club model
display at Newport on the Levee on Sat. August 27. I know that this is well into the future but
venues of this type like to arrange things well in advance. The hours will be from 11am to 4pm
and we need all of the advance commitments possible by the next meeting. If you even remotely
think that you can attend please let me know at or by, the March meeting, where we will discuss
the rest of the details of the event.
I am looking forward to contest night and the Fabulous 50’s theme on March 14, see you
there. Rockne
Contest Corner
Hey Guys its March already and the theme is The Fabulous Fifty’s, so lets see all those
Big-Fat -Round and Pointy fenders that you have. I hope to have something
on the tables. See y’all Monday, Curt.
News Flash---News Flash---News Flash
Greetings Model Citizens!
Through the power of the internet C.A.R. has been offered a unique
modeling experience. Newport on the Levee has invited the club to
display our models on Saturday, August 27, 2011. The display area will
be indoors, they will provide tables, security and expenses. The model
show would run between the hours of 11am and 4pm.
This is a rare offer for a model club to show off their talent, to promote the club and draw
interest to the hobby, all served up in a fine venue with a guaranteed audience. Obviously, we
need a good turnout for this occasion for C.A.R. to look as good as possible. Also the
Levee's advertising effort will be equal to the event. At February's meeting we discussed having
not only C.A.R. members but also close "friends of C.A.R." display as well, meaning, our regular
non-members, former members and friends.
One thing must be understood, this is NOT a sales or vendor
opportunity, as the venue will not allow it. However, don't
underestimate the potential for networking with folks for future sales!
What the club, and the Levee need is commitment to participate so
that we know what to expect and accommodate for. Several people at Feb.’s
meeting said they would do it. What I would like is for everyone who is interested and can be
there, even if you said you would at the meeting, to email me with that commitment and a rough
idea of how many models you would like to show (no limit). If you can't respond by email you
can call me at 513-471-0809 or tell me at the March meeting. After that meeting I have to tell the
Levee what to expect.
There are several of our members that do not have email
capability, if you know them and can call or talk to them about all off this, please do so.
Let's join together and show what this club is all about! Thanks,
Rockne
BENCH RACING - by Bill Bench PROCRASTINATING ON A
PROJECT
We've all done it ! I'll admit that I probably have over 60 - plus kits that I've started working
on with the best of intentions of finishing them...and didn't. Why? Best answer that I can honestly
come up with is that there was something I didn't like about the way it was going together.
Rather than figure out a way to fix the problem, it was much, much easier to put it back in the box
and forget about it. Let's just start a new project that inspires us. Have you done this? Can I
get a show of hands?
Thus the tale of BENCH RACING begins. The year is 2001. The world has survived the
Y2K bug, Cincinnati Auto Replicas is 15 years old, Johnny's Toys is still a big part of our, I get
an inspiration..."If I had say, $25,000 to blow on a race car, what would I build?" Eleven years
later, my tastes have changed, but at that time in my life, I would like to have had a 1969 Mach I
Mustang Bracket Racer. It would have a built 428 Cobra Jet engine backed by a C-6 automatic
transmission. It would be tubbed and have an Aero hood scoop. I had a fascination with Yellow at
the time, so not only would the body be painted yellow, but all of the chrome as well. Not one to
waste time, I sawed off the back of the Mustang chassis and mated it with the tubbed back half of
the '66 Nova Pro Street chassis. This would allow me to use a bigger tire to handle the
horsepower and torque of the mighty Cobra Jet engine, plus it had some really cool wheelie bars!
I had to cut up a few intake manifolds to get one that I liked and used the headers out of the
Thunderbolt kit. Found a C-6 in the parts box that I mated to the CJ, and the engine was done!
Had to relocate the transmission cross member back about 3/16ths and I was in business!
Using the same Hood Scoop from the Nova kit, the body was painted Testor's Odds 'n Ends
Buttercup Yellow. The mock-up looked great. The impression that it made on Travis Jeffrey and
others, that was as far as it got...in that form. Why? Despite hacking up two interiors, I couldn't
get one to look right with the tubbed frame and the transmission tunnel was giving me fits. Back
into the box it goes until 2005. For some reason, I thought BENCH RACING should go faster. So
I cut out the inner fenders, firewall, and radiator support. I then trim the frame from a Super Clean
Olds Cutlass to fit the Mustang. I paint everything, and make every attempt to glue
everything together...and it fights me every step of the way! I'm getting frustrated. I finally think
everything on the chassis is glued securely, so I make what I hope is the final adjustment...and
the roll cage comes loose! Model building is supposed to be relaxing! I'm normally a calm
person! But I took that frame... and hurled it against the wall! Left a mark on the wall. The
remaining glue joints came loose...but it didn't break!! Back in the box it went with a few oaths that
would make a sailor blush, and there it remained until 2010!
My life has changed quite a bit since then. I'm more into Sportsman- type Bracket Cars. I'm
more partial to the SN-95 and later Mustangs. I'm more spiritual than I was then, and I'm looking
at BENCH RACING in a new light. With a little prodding from Travis, I've decided that I'm going to
finish BR with the chassis from the Pro Stock Thunderbird. The tubbed Mustang chassis is too
good not to use...so I've started another body...there will be TWO BENCH RACING 1969
Mustangs! I'm not into yellow as much as I was back in 2000, so we'll see what I come up with.
But what about the interior which gave me so many problems? I learned a new technique that I'm
sharing in the newsletter. See you at the meeting. Bill
Hot Tip:
HOW TO COVER A GAPING HOLE THE EASY WAY -by Bill Bench
I like to build Drag Racing models. Some of the projects that I tackle have interiors that have molded-in
details like seats and consoles. While this saves the kit manufacturer a few dollars to mold the interior in
this manner, it makes it difficult and time - consuming for the modeler to cut out and remove these items.
Once done, you are left with a gaping hole in the interior. Thanks to
Travis Jeffrey and Al Richards, I now have a way of dealing with this problem.
PIC # 1 This is a stock Revell '69 Mustang interior. You can see that the console and rear
seat is molded in.
PIC # 2 As you can see, I have removed the center console. I'm adding tubs to this model, so the
rear seat has been removed as well. This will be covered in a future article.
PIC # 3 I have used masking tape to cover the inside of the holes in the interior being careful to
follow the contours of the transmission tunnel.
PIC # 4 Flipping the interior tub over, I liberally applied 5 – minute Epoxy to the desired areas.
PIC # 5 I removed the tape after 30 minutes, and I had a workable surface that can be machined,
painted, and covered with carpet flocking.
There are plenty more uses for this tip. Give it a try.
WANTED: Outa print stuff
Boys & Girls, The above pic shows a building version from the instructions of an early
edition of Monogram’s Model ‘A’ Phaeton (circa ’60-‘62). I’m looking for some of the
pieces shown: the Drag Slicks, the rear wheels, the tonneau cover, the roll bar, the push
bar & the firewall. As you may know, this basic kit is available today, but, these items are
no longer included, having been ‘updated’ ……… as far as condition, worn chrome, dust,
etc is not an issue, glue-melted IS. Lemme see what you’ve got. See me at the meeting or
contact me either by phone or email.
Thanx Robb 513-312-9715 or < robbshelby@cinci.rr.com >
Kit Review: Revell 1965 Chevy Stepside Pickup-Reissue
OK, here’s the idea, build a model relatively quickly and well with minimal modifications
that would be contest worthy for the IPMS Roscoe P. Turner show coming up on March 11, in
Indianapolis. I chose the 1965 Chevy because the use of modern wheels, and I was going to
combine it with a flat black paint to come up with a modern looking street rod with a 1950’s feel.
The truth is I was using a 1:1 pickup owned by my stepdaughter’s father, Jeff Matala, as a basis
for the build. Here’s what I found:
This kit can be built one of two ways, stock and custom. Both versions use the same
engine block, with the only differences being air cleaner, carburetor, heads, and exhaust. Keep in
mind that the kit does feature to different exhaust manifolds, but only the custom version is listed
in the directions. The interior tub is basic with no options and features 60’s style steering and a
bench seat. Very stock.
The radiator and cross member has the stock setup, or (and I hope you paid attention
during the engine build) an electronic fan for the custom option. If the custom version was
picked, the elimination of the mechanical fan would be necessary.
The body is multi-pieced. There is a separate piece for the rear of the cab, firewall,
radiator core support, roof (keep in mind that the ’65 had an extended roof) and bed pieces. Most
disturbing however is the 4-piece hood that incorporates the hinges with the sides of the massive
hood and allowing for alignment issues during the building process. The spare tire assembly is a
very nice and more realistic touch that uses a vinyl tire, separate rim, whitewall, and support
bracket. However no concession was made to have a spare that matches the custom 5-spoke
rim and low profile tires. There is also no custom exhaust and both stock and custom versions
use the same single exhaust pipe. There is however a lowered front suspension piece. Decals
are very clear and feature a wood looking bed floor.
For a few quick custom touches of my own, I wanted to shave the door handles (difficult
because the shape of the sides), dual exhaust, and real wood for the bed. Despite my desire to
build this quickly, and the superior quality of the kit, this will not be a quick build. An option note;
use the stock wheels and tires, lowered front end, and custom decals and engine for a variation
of the custom build.
Building Better Model Cars Part 3 Assembly Prep
A few things to remember 1) Never break plastic parts, cut them from sprue using cutters
of a hobby knife. It may be wise to leave small parts on the sprue until needed.
2)Use a round or half round to smooth edges of holes.
3) Clean and enlarge holes with a hobby knife.
4) Trim mold lines and seems
5) Remove chrome plating and it is a good idea to test fit parts before and after painting
6) It may also be necessary to prime parts before painting.
New This Month:
From Revell/Monogram:
1969 Chevrolet Nova
COPO- Modified Reissue
On The Drawing board
Mini Cooper
Reissue
by Robb Shelby
As I’ve said before, after knocking together a couple of serious contest level models, I need a
break. I’ll work on something with a lot less detail. I build belly pan cars. Cars with little or no
subsurface detail – no opening panels, simple interiors & little, if any, underside stuff at all – belly
pans instead of chassis. To illustrate, here’s a couple of mid-50’s Ford trucks.
The “55 F100” Truck
I actually acquired this kit specifically to do this build: a simple working pickup that can haul stuff,
tow a trailer or push-start a racer. Starting with the current R/M ’55 Ford pickup kit, I gathered the
necessary body panels & interior details. I glued the front valance, the hood & the firewall to the
cab & set that assembly aside for painting. The cab floor, the bed floor & running boards are all
apiece, & to this I added the bedsides, the forward bulkhead & the fenders. As before, I set the
assembly aside for painting. As I began to gather the Evergreen styrene I’d need, I realized I had
no single assembly I could use to determine the correct wheelbase. I taped the cab assembly to
the floor assembly, & then went back to the kit for the chassis & suspension, which I also taped
together. I used the body assembly to generate a new chassis from .080”thk sheet styrene, &
then the kit-supplied frame to locate the front & rear axles. I wanted a fairly stock looking truck
with a fairly stock stance, so I needed to space the axles away from the frame. I did this using
Evergreen rectangular stock, turned one way for the front & the other way for the rear, giving the
truck a slight forward rake. I helped the stance a taste more by running the w/w tires & open
wheels from Revell’s ‘rat rod’ series Model ‘A’. However, when I mocked the whole deal up, I
found too much blank space under the truck & around the rolling stock. So I threw in some
scratch’d leaf springs……… that helped. Getting back to the
bod, I untapped the assemblies & painted the whole thing gold. This didn’t work for squat! The
paint ran, ‘peeled & bubbled – a different problem on every side. I sanded & rubbed it kinda
smooth, but it still looked really bad. Then, without any stripping or further sanding, I sprayed
some really cheap brown-ish stuff on it that brought out all the highlights of the previous gold
paint – the runs, the drips, etc – in a way I hadn’t quite expected……. I decided to leave it that
way & went ahead & painted & detailed the bed floor. The grill, headlights & taillights were used
as found in the kit. I used a silver paint marker, followed by a q-tip, on the assorted body badges
& details. I went around the windshield with a black marker. Turning to the interior, I used the kit
supplied the inner door panels, which are very modern, as patterns to generate a pair of flat,
unadorned items, & then cut out the inner door structure, allowing a portion of the inside of the
door skin to show. This exposed area, as well as the stock-style bench seat, were covered with
‘Mexican’ blanket material. The floor, dash & new inner door panels were painted gold. The dash
has been liberally pinstriped & the gauges have been detailed. I added a shifter with a skull knob
to the kit supplied steering wheel & pedal cluster. The front bumper has been replaced by a
sturdy push bumper & a scratch’d ball hitch has been added under the rear of the bed. An H-D
decal adorns the backlight & hand painted graffix grace the doors. So far, I’ve displayed it flattowing a 39 Chevy Gasser, with a pair of slicks (wheels match the coupe) & some tools. It’s likely
not finished yet…………..
The “Bootlegger” (for the moment) Panel Truck
Another 55 Ford from R/M, this one a panel truck that I acquired from a fellow Back Porch
member. It came to me ‘built & broke’ (the suspension parts, as is so often the case………), so it
seemed like an excellent choice for my kind of low-detail, scratch built chassis & running gear. I
hadda get rid of those kit-offered wheels & tires, anyway. My first order of biz was to disassemble
the built truck. I was able to get the body shell off of the floor/running board unit without damaging
either, but removing the frame from the floor proved more problematic. The frame was very firmly
glued in several places that also featured cracks. I was unable to separate the frame from the
floor & keep the frame intact. This was OK, as I planned to replace the frame, anyway. I began
the replacement with a pair of rails fashioned from .080”x.156” Evergreen rectangular stock,
about a half inch longer than the body shell & a piece of .040”thk sheet just about the same
length & width of the body. Then, I taped the floor in place inside the body. The body’s front &
rear valances featured cutouts for the bumper brackets, & after deciding that both the size of the
opening & the distance apart were the same, I chose to use ‘em to position the rails. I trimmed my
.040” sheet to lay exactly into the shell, resting on the floor, & then glued the new rails to the new
under-body pan. One of the things I wanted to avoid was having a wheel/tire combo that failed to
fill the fender openings in an attractive (to my eye, anyway) manner. I finally settled on a set (4) of
wheels/tires from the old Monogram Green Hornet. I’m talking about the early 60’s release, as it
featured rubber tires instead of the 2pc plastic units found in the mid 90’s reissue. I decided on
four front units, as I wanted ‘em all the same size to add to the ‘stock’ appearance. I did, however,
go with the ‘Moon’ disc outer wheel halves, as they fit (never a non-consideration) without any
mods & don’t really look out of place on a racecar’s tow rig……… At one point, Modelhaus
offered these tires in resin with a w/w insert – might look into that……
The final fabrication step was to Dremel out some of the rail at the axle locations to sorta fine tune
the stance. Next, a ball hitch on the back, a wooden push-bumper on the front, a little flat black on
the chassis, a little aluminum on those old hub caps & the truck is ready for whatever I decide to
do to the body/interior portion. Whatever that turns out to be, it’ll start with those graffix takin’ a
hike.
submitted by Robb
The Last Detail --- 2011 Themes
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
The Fabulous 50’S
Big Boppers*
Animal Cars, Cars Named After Animals
MOPARS*
Foreign Invasion
Motorcycles*
Circle Track
Midget Racers*
End of the Year Contest
Awards Ceremony, Kit Exchange, Pizza Party Free for All
BYOD (Bring your own Drink)
*gravity drags and swap meet months as well. Bring your down hill racers, and items that you
wish to sell, barter, or trade with.
Upcoming Events
March 11, 2011 Roscoe Turner IPMS
Raymond Park MS
8575 E Raymond St
Indianapolis IN
March 27, 2011 Buckeye Model Car Contest Columbus OH
April 16, 2011 Cincinnati Challege XVII
April 16, 2011 Lynhurst 7th and 8th Grade Center Car Show and Model Contest
2805 S Lynhurst Dr, Indianapolis IN
April 16, 2011 NNL East, NJ
May 7, 2011 HMCA, Knights of Columbus Hall, 511 E. Thompson Rd, Indianapolis
September 16-18, Goodguys Indianapolis
October 1, 2011 SCIMA
•
•
Classifieds
Ford Ranger kit, contact Jeff M 936-0163
I have some models that I will be selling. But I am not looking to rent a whole table at
shows. Please contact me if you are interested in splitting a table at various shows
throughout the year. Jeff M 936-0163
* A good friend and supporter of our club needs to find a Linberg "62 Bel Air or Impala for
an upcoming project. -- He really just needs a complete chassis with the exhaust, but will
purchase an entire kit if need be.
If you have one, please let me know.—Randy
* Wanted: parts for convertible conversions,'60's boots and sun visors. fender skirts and
whitewalls. -- 426 Hemis. Scrap '66 or '67 Dodge Charger body for glass, roof and interior. See
Greg or call 513-571-9566.
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receives credit for the work written. That is all we ask. Happy Modeling 2011 Car Publications.