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ABOVE LEFT:The odd farm animal.
adds atmosphere to any Karoo
Cuisine cooking course.
ABOVE: Erika Grebe and Susanna
laugh often, long and Ioud.
van der Mervve enjoy a cup oftea
laugh until you gasp for breath.
shared laughter creates .
in the rose garden. LEFT:Locally
sourced cheeses, preserves,
biltong and home-made bread
make up a Karoo Cuisine snack
platter. RIGHT: Laughter is
an essential ingredient of the
cooking courses. BELOW LEFT:
Springbok ravioli with rocket and
tomatoes fresh from the garden.
BELOW: Leopard tortoises are
a common sight on the lawns
of Badsfontein.
___
1--------1
~"'..
a bond of friendshi
:-.'.
KAROO CUISINE t COUNTRY CHEF
•
I
•
accommodation
a S 00 In
e aroo?
for participants. Susanna is
a seasoned cook, who first met professional
chefErika
during tea after a church service.
Hearing that Erika had qualified at the Institute
for Hospitality Education in Cape Town, and
had then gone on to be a chef at a wine estate
and a five-star lodge, on super-yachts in the
Mediterranean
and at a five-star hotel on an
island in Lake Tanganyika, Susanna suggested
they team up.
"Initially I turned down the idea as I wasn't
convinced people would come to the Karoo to
learn how to cook," says Erika. But Susanna
persevered and Erika eventually agreed.
Badsfontein is easily accessible to visitors
A lot it seems. Visitors
to the region can now
combine their holiday
with a Karoo cooking
course that focuses on
traditional recipes with
a modern twist
WORDS STEVE MOSELEY.
PICTURES STEVE MOSELEY
AND ADRI SMIT
he Karoo is rapidly becoming
travelling on both the NI from Cape Town and
a foodie hotspot, known for more
the N9 from the Garden Route.
than just its lamb. Food festivals,
Karoo Cuisine is part of Slow Food
slow food, new food, local cheeses
International,
and craft beer are drawing vistors
rise of fast food and fast life, the disappearance
in droves.
founded in 1989 to counter the
oflocal food traditions and people's dwindling
Harnessing this interest, Karoo Cuisine
interest in the food they eat and where it comes
offers a cooking course outside Murraysburg,
from. At its heart is promoting local foods and
not far from Nieu-Bethesda
centuries-old traditions of gastronomy.
Karoo. "Participants
in the central
get plenty of time to relax,
Susanna and Erika focus on teaching
experience what the Karoo is all about, and
traditional Karoo dishes with a modem twist
rediscover themselves away from the city rush,"
and fresh, local ingredients. In the Badsfontein
says Susanna van der Merwe, who runs the
farm kitchen there are no stainless steel
course together with business partner
surfaces. It's just an everyday kitchen with
Erika Grebe.
everyday appliances. "At first people are taken
Karoo Cuisine is situated on Badsfontein,
a historic sixth-generation
sheep farm with
aback by the ordinariness of the kitchen, but
our emphasis is on relaxed cooking in a homey
atmosphere,"
says Susanna.
"It's important to learn the basics before
getting creative," says Erika. "It's essentially
what we teach people. Then you can go home
and create the same dishes. You don't always
need fancy ingredients to make a superb dish."
Susanna's love of cooking began during
childhood when her mother catered for
weddings in Stellenbosch, and she was always
in the kitchen. Today her passion lies in making
puddings and cakes.
"I also won a copy of the Kook en Geniet
recipe book written by Tannie Ina de Villiers, as
a school prize way back in 1972, which inspired
me," she says, taking down the well-worn copy
from the shelf.
Erika credits her mother and grandmother's
Karoo cooking for her love offood. One of her
LEFT: Enjoying some new dishes and a glass of wine in the garden at
Badsfontein are Susanna van der Merwe (left] with her husband Izak,
and Erika Grebe [riqht) and her husband Hein.
COUNTRY CHEF t KAROO CUISINE
So often friendships are created over SJoodfood and wine and this is one
of the essential inqredlents of the Karoo Cuisine cookinq courses
first memories is gee/pap cooked slowly on
lamb, but each recipe Erika devises has a new
lamb is farmed at Badsfontein and venison at
the AGA cooker. "I remember the comforting
spin on these two stalwarts ofKaroo cooking.
Waterskloof game farm between Murraysburg
smell," she says. "Also, on Sunday afternoons
"We like to use venison in various ways to show
and Aberdeen, which belongs to Erika's parents-
after church, I was allowed to choose delicious
there's more to it than the flavours of vinegar
in-law. Erika and Susanna grow their own herbs
preserves from the pantry."
and cloves, so typical in traditional venison
and vegetables, and Erika makes her own pasta,
pies," she says. "It's also about highlighting
which she supplies to several restaurants.
"Cooking is about using ingredients
A typical day on the course starts at 08h30
and covers everything from menu preparation
to plating. Then a Mediterranean-style
lunch
each ingredient and using it to its full potential."
During the course, Susanna and Erika hope
that are available at any given time, and the
with a glass of wine is enjoyed under the
to change people's perception that the Karoo
Karoo teaches you well from your very first
IIO-year-old grapevine. Afternoons are free
is a dry and barren region. "We like to show
cooking experience," says Erika. "There are no
to soak up the atmosphere of the Karoo, go
participants how fertile the Karoo is, and how
Woolworths or supermarkets nearby when you
on a game drive, or be pampered at the spa
much diversity there is here," says Erika.
in Murraysburg. A formal dinner is served at
a table elegantly set by Susanna.
The course focuses on venison and Karoo
They try to use as much local produce as
discover you're short of something. As a result
we only use fresh ingredients in our cooking.
possible, including eggs, milk, butter, cream,
People are becoming more aware of what they
yogurt, cheese, buttermilk, and chicken. The
eat, and they should be."
Erika also believes that nature tells us what
to cook or serve together, like stewed fruit with
venison. "Traditionally, venison was available
in winter when there were no vegetables, and
stewed fruit was the obvious accompaniment,"
she says.
So often friendships are created over good
food and wine and this is one of the essential
ingredients of the Karoo Cuisine cooking
courses. "I know it's a cliche, but people really
do arrive here as strangers and leave as friends,"
says Erika .•
Map reference
E4 see inside back cover
Karoo Cuisine, 049 844 9622,
badsfontein@vodamail.co.za,
www.facebook.comJpages/
KarooCuisine/523384331038516
ABOVE: Lunches are enjoyed
beneath the old grapevine.
LEFT:Making ravioli is part
of the cooking course and
chef Erika Grebe shows
participants how it's done.
BELOW LEFT: In-season
asparagus, grown in
Murraysburg,
is one of the
ingredients used in Karoo
Cuisine dishes. RIGHT: The
'sundowner'
Badsfontein.
lookout point at
"We like to show participants how
fertile the Karoo is, and how much
diversity there is here
ABOVE: Susanna van der Merwe (left) and Erika Grebe,
who run the cooking course, set the table forthe
evening meal.
Cheese Souffle
Serves
•
•
6
50g butter
y. cup plain flour
•
•
I Y. cups milk
2 cups coarsely grated cheddar
or Parmesan cheese
•
2 tsp Dijon mustard
•
y. tsp cayenne pepper
•
4 large eggs, at room temperature, separated
•
salt and pepper
METHOD
Preheat oven to 200°C. Place an
oven tray in the oven to preheat. Melt 20g butter
the cheese, mustard and pepper and stir until
and brush well the base and sides of four enamel
cheese melts and the mixture is smooth. Add the
inside rim of each, about 2cm into the souffle;
mugs or ramekins. In a saucepan make a roux
egg yolks and stir until well combined. Season
this will help the souffle rise more evenly and
with the remaining butter and flour. Cook while
with salt and pepper.
stirring for 2 minutes until mixture bubbles and
smooth the tops. Run your finger around the
give it a top hat appearance. Place the enamel
Use an electric mixer to whisk the egg
mugs/ramekins
on the preheated oven tray and
comes away from the sides ofthe pan. Remove
whites in a clean, dry bowl until soft peaks
bake for 10 minutes or until golden brown and
puffed. Serve immediately.
from heat and add half the milk. Use a balloon
form. Add one-quarter of the egg whites to the
whisk to whisk until mixture is smooth. Repeat
cheese mixture and use a metal spoon to fold
with the remaining milk. Return to heat and
through until just combined. Add the remaining
Wine suggestion Constantia Uitsig Reserve
cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until mixture
egg whites and gently fold in. Pour the cheese
Chardonnay
boils and thickens. Remove from heat and add
mixture into the enamel mugs/ramekins
__ ww__ w_._co_u._n_try_l_if,_e_.c_o._za
~IIII
and
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COUNTRY CHEF. KAROO CUISINE
ABOVE: As with many Karoo homesteads, the
gardens at Badsfontein are the perfect place in
which to relax after the heat of the kitchen.
Rose Water and Lemon
Verbena Granita
A delicious palate cleanser
Serves 4
•
180ml sugar
• y, cup fresh lemon juice
• y, cup rose water
•
I cup boiling water
•
handful lemon verbena leaves
METHOD Using a food processor, blitz
leaves are fine and the sugar is nearly green.
LEFT:Erika and
Susanna cut
roses for the
Add all the ingredients to a mixing bowl
evening table.
the sugar and verbena leaves until the
and stir until everything is dissolved. Pour
the mixture through a very fine sieve or
muslin cloth into a glassor stainless steel
dish and place in the freezer until frozen about 3 hours. Scrape the granita with the
tines of a fork, creating ice shavings. Return
to freezer for another 2 to 4 hours. Serve
sprinkled with rose petals.
r
I
Biltong and Pecan Nut Pate
•
50g butter, softened
METHOD
•
50g pecan nuts, roughly
chopped
combine all the ingredients
In a food processor,
and
blend to the desired consistency.
lOOg biltong, finely grated
If a chunkier consistency
•
I tub cream cheese
preferred, reserve half of the
•
4 tbs port
grated biltong and add at the end.
•
•
4 tbs cream
freshly ground black pepper
to taste
and preserves.
•
is
Serve with freshly baked bread
Springbok Cannelloni
Serves 6
Pasta
•
300g bread flour
•
3 whole eggs
•
I tbs olive oil
•
•
1 tsp salt
few drops of water to bind
Braised Springbok
•
2kg springbok portions, e.g. shank,
neck or rib
•
1 onion, chopped
•
•
I tbs olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
•
3;" cup red wine
•
sachet tomato paste
•
•
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
•
cornflour
its thinnest setting, roll out. Cut into rectangular
For the bechamel sauce, melt the butter in
Tomato Ragout
pieces about the size of a lasagne sheet. Cover
a heavy-bottomed
with cling wrap to keep it from drying out.
constantly with a wooden spoon until the paste
saucepan. Add flour, stirring
•
3 tbs olive oil
•
3 cloves garlic
•
I sachet tomato paste
cooker or large pot. Fry the onion and garlic
about 2 minutes. Add the hot milk, continuing to
•
1 can whole peeled tomatoes
until fragrant. Add the meat and brown for
stir as the sauce thickens. Add salt and pepper to
•
salt, pepper and sugar to taste
For the braised springbok, use a pressure
cooks and bubbles a bit, but don't let it brown-
a few minutes. Add the tomato paste and red
taste, lower the heat, and cook, stirring for
wine along with the bay leaf. Cook until the
2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Bechamel Sauce (White Sauce)
meat is tender and falls off the bone. When cool
•
2 tbs butter
enough to handle, carefully remove all bone,
•
•
2 tbs flour
I V4 cups milk, heated
sinew etc. Flake and thicken a bit of the sauce
spread the tomato ragout over the bottom. Place
spoonfuls ofthe braised springbok onto the
with cornflour if necessary. Season with salt and
pasta sheets and roll to form sausages. Place the
•
salt and freshly ground pepper
pepper to taste.
cannellonis on top of the tomato ragout and pour
•
grated cheese
METHOD
For the pasta, mix all the
For the tomato ragout, heat a frying pan and
over the bechamel sauce. Sprinkle a handful
gently saute the garlic. Add the tomato paste
grated cheese on top and bake at 200'C for
and stir for a few seconds. Add the whole peeled
30 to 40 minutes. Serve with a salad and
fresh bread.
ingredients together and knead for about
tomatoes and, using a wooden spoon, stir to
5 to lO minutes until it forms a strong, very
break up the large pieces. Gently simmer until
stretchy dough. Rest for a minimum of
most of the runny liquid is reduced. Season with
30 minutes and using a pasta machine on
salt, pepper and sugar.
www.countrylife.co.za
To assemble, take an ovenproof dish and
I
Wine suggestion Stony Brook Syrah Reserve
COUNTRY CHEF t KAROO CUISINE
Racl<of Karoo Lamb
with Lucerne Puree
"Coolainq is about using inqredients-that
are available at any ~iven time, and the
Karoo teaches you well from your very
first coolzinq experience
Serves 4
•
2 racks of7 bones each
•
2 sprigs fresh thyme
•
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
•
2 cloves garlic
•
•
coarse salt
olive oil for rubbing over meat
Lucerne Puree
•
•
25g butter
I small onion, finely chopped
•
2 tbs plain flour
•
•
100mlmilk
300-400g soft lucerne tops (or spinach)
•
100ml cream
•
fresh nutmeg
•
salt and pepper
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 200·C. Trim
most of the fat from the lamb racks, but leave
enough to flavour the meat as it cooks. Score
the fat with a small sharp knife and season well
with coarse salt. Heat a frying pan and brown
the racks well. Finely chop rosemary, thyme and
garlic and rub with a liberal amount of olive oil
over the meat. Place the racks in an ovenproof
dish and roast for 15 to 20 minutes until
medium. Let rest for 5 minutes before carving.
For the lucerne puree, heat the butter in
a saucepan, then add the onion and cook for
5 minutes until softened. Stir in the flour and
cook for 2 minutes to a smooth roux. Slowly
whisk in the milk. When it has all been
incorporated, gently cook for 5 minutes until
the sauce has thickened. Meanwhile, blanch
the lucerne in boiling water for 30 seconds
and refresh in cold water to retain the colour.
Squeeze the lucerne with your hands to remove
excess liquid. Roughly chop and stir into the
sauce with the cream. Heat, finely grate over
some nutmeg and season well. You might want
to blitz it a few times in a blender if a smoother
consistency is required.
Chef's tip: 'Frenching'
the rack of lamb by
exposing the ribs and trimming away all the
meat, fat and sinew between the bones gives
it a neater look. You can also ask your butcher
to French them for you.
Wine suggestion Stark-Conde
Cabernet
SteIJenbosch
Sauvignon
www.countrylife.co.za
LEFT:Table settings
with colour and
flair are Susannas
speciality.
Beetroot. Olive Oil & Honey Cake
•
500g beetroot, unpeeled
•
3 large eggs, separated
•
170ml honey
• 80ml sugar
• 165ml olive oil
• I vanilla pod, cut in halflengthwise,
seeds scraped out
•
2 cups cake flour
•
10ml baking powder
•
grated zest and juice of I orange
Cream Cheese Icing
•
60g soft butter
•
250ml icing sugar
•
250g cream cheese
•
5ml vanilla essence
METHOD Grease two 20cm cake tins well and
line with greaseproof paper. Cook the beetroot, then
allow to cool enough to handle. Peel and puree in
a food processor until smooth. Add the egg yolks,
honey, sugar, olive oil and vanilla seeds to the
beetroot mixture and blitz until smooth. Sift the
flour and baking powder together and fold into the
beetroot mixture. Add the orange zest and juice.
Do not over-mix. Whisk the egg whites to a stiff
peak and gently fold into the cake mixture, Spoon
the mixture into the prepared cake tin and bake for
45 to 50 minutes until a skewer comes out clean.
Allow to cool completely and ice with cream cheese
icing. To make the icing, cream the butter and icing
sugar together. Add the cream cheese and whisk until
smooth. Add the vanilla essence.
Wine suggestion Paul Cluver Riesling
Noble Late Harvest
www.countrylife.co.za