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Wine Society News CMAA International Wine Society Letter From the Host By Joe Basso, MCM, CCE Ladies and Gentlemen: When my dear friend Tom Bertani phoned me what seems like a decade ago and said “we want to nominate you for the Wine Society Board of Managers,” I never in my wildest dreams imagined I would be writing to you as your incoming host. I will tell you that this has been one of the most rewarding experiences of my career, having served you alongside some of the finest managers I have ever met. I am grateful to each of them for the wine experience and knowledge I have gained from our Association. And I am exceedingly grateful to you for the confidence you have placed in me by allowing me the privilege to serve on your Board and as your Host for what is our 25th Anniversary Year. I would be remiss in not thanking three very special people – my best friend in the whole world – Tom Bertani, and the better part of me, my wife Beckie. As I am sure many of you can appreciate, she puts up with a lot. It is a good thing for me she has a high threshold for pain. And certainly Kathi Driggs; Kathi and I arrived at CMAA about the same time, and while she has been a tremendous personal support to me during my journey, I am confident this Society would not exist without her efforts and those of her staff. Much like we are the continuity in our respective clubs, Kathi and her staff serve that role for us in the IWS. If you haven’t taken the time to read the Society’s history, I would encourage you to do so. Even though the dinner in New Orleans was our 24th Annual Dinner, 2012 is the 25th Year of the International Wine Society, having been founded in 1988. In recognition of this milestone, your Board is undertaking some strategic changes to ensure our on-going success. Much like we have done in our own clubs, we are looking at how we have traditionally governed the Society and how and where we can improve to ensure we stay relevant to you. By default or tradition, each Board has historically worked within a ten month window, with the exception of the International Workshops that have been so successful over the years, and certainly part of our heritage. Working with the outgoing Host, Oliver Boudin, and next year’s Host, Eric Gregory, we have begun to Vol. 25 No. 1 Contents: Letter From the Host . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 By Joe Basso, MCM, CCE Society Happenings Introducing the Wine Society Board of Managers . . .2 CMAA International Wine Society Annual Dinner . .3 By Paul Andrew Smith III Clubs Recognized for Exceptional Wine Programs . . 4 Sensorium Wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Congratulations 2012 Bucky Award Winners . . . . . . .6 2012 Arseneaux Scholarship Winner . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 New Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Test Your Wine Knowledge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Grapevine A “Case of the Mondays” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 By Peter Colón Registration Now Open for Annual Wine Tour . . . . .8 Spanish Food and Wine Experience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 By Merle “Bud” Worman, CCM A Whirlwind Tour of the Santa Barbara Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 By Terry Anglin, CCM, CCE By The Glass Rosé Wine: Not Your Typical Pink Wine . . . . . . . . . .10 By Keith Collora implement elements of our past strategic planning efforts that will “live” through the transition of Hosts to implementation and execution of initiatives that previous Boards have identified and developed. In addition to planning our annual programming, your Board will be working on the following initiatives during 2012: Education • Development of a 90-120 minute Conference Education Session • Improve the utilization of the Vino 101 Training Program • Create Wine core competencies and a sommelier certification • Webcasting quarterly education out to all IWS Members (continued on page 2) Spring 2012 Letter From the Host (continued from page 1) Membership • Evaluate our current Membership Marketing • Recognition of Longevity in the Society Ambassador Program • Education Partners • Friends Program • Other Alliances Chapter Liason • Reinvent At-Conference Chapter Representatives Luncheon • Review Chapter Representative Program • Review Chapter of the Year Program for relevance The Board of Managers has already begun work on these initiatives and will be meeting over National Committee Weekend in May to further address and develop what promises to be a busy and productive agenda for 2012. Stay tuned. Communication/Marketing/Promotion • Revisit Wine Society Newsletter for new look, format, relevant content and design • Information sharing • Promotion of Wine Society Events and Programs • Promotion of Warren Arsenaux Scholarship Saluté, Governance • Provide for Continuity of Initiatives and Programs • Board Transition Joe Basso, MCM, CCE Society Happenings Introducing the Wine Society Board of Managers Host Joseph F. Basso, MCM, CCE General Manager/COO Birmingham Country Club Birmingham, MI Kitchener Christina Toups, CCM, CCE General Manager Ridglea Country Club Fort Worth, TX Cellarmaster Eric B. Gregory, CCM General Manager Claremont Country Club Oakland, CA Secretary Thomas M. Czaus, CCM General Manager/COO Country Club of York York, PA Kitchenmaster John R. Schuler, CCM Bennington, NE Brent Tartamella, CCM, CCE Cellarer Craig C. Surdy, CCM, CCE General Manager/COO The Reserve Club Indian Wells, CA Vol. 25 No. 1 Toastmaster Nadine D. Rockwell, CCM Assistant General Manager Annapolis Yacht Club Annapolis, MD Board Members Terry Anglin, CCM, CCE General Manager San Diego Yacht Club San Diego, CA Treasurer General Manager The Westmoor Club Nantucket, MA Michael C. Davis, CCM General Manager Park City Club Dallas, TX Barrister Paul Andrew Smith III Assistant General Manager Willow Ridge Country Club Harrison, NY Oliver Boudin, CCM General Manager Oklahoma City Golf & Country Club Oklahoma City, OK 2 Spring 2012 Society Happenings CMAA International Wine Society Annual Dinner New Orleans Country Club February 26, 2012 By Paul Andrew Smith III Barrister I had the distinct honor and privilege to serve as your Toastmaster at the recent wine dinner at Conference. What a wonderful evening it was of good food, wine and camaraderie hosted by Bobby J. Crifasi, CCM, CCE, CPA, the New Orleans Country Club and the entire staff. From the moment you entered the club, you could feel the warmth and southern hospitality from the entire team. The night began with a reception featuring the wines of Sokol Blosser Winery, Trefethen Family Vineyards and Iron Horse Vineyards with New Orleans themed hors d’oeuvres and entertainment. We then entered the ballroom for the wine dinner featuring the wines of Presqu’ile Winery, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Sokol Blosser Winery, Peju Province Winery, Swanson Vineyards, Merryvale Vineyards, Waugh Cellars and Iron Horse Winery paired beautifully with the menu selections. Please see the menu to the right for the specifics. Kudos to Executive Chef Chris Tefarkis, Chef d’ Cuisine William Mauk and the entire culinary team on a truly remarkable food and wine experience. The final course was a “Pure Decadence Dessert Buffet” in the formal dining room highlighting an assortment of chocolates, cheeses and wines. It was a great opportunity to stretch the legs after dinner, socialize with those not at your table including the winemakers and winery representatives and eat and drink some more! Once again I would like to thank Bobby and his entire staff for a memorable event and all the wineries for their support of our wonderful society! I would like to finish with the way the night began with the toast for those who missed it. “Drinking good wine, with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures. But what is the definition of good wine? I believe it should start and end with a SMILE! So to everyone gathered here tonight I wish you all an evening full of SMILES!” CHEERS! I wish you all a season full of smiles! Vol. 25 No. 1 3 Spring 2012 Society Happenings Clubs Recognized for Exceptional Wine Programs 2011 Wine Program Awards Winners CMAA’s International Wine Society announced the winners for the Wine Program Awards at this year’s World Conference in New Orleans. The objective of the Wine Program Awards is to recognize the best club wine programs on an annual basis and to laud CMAA member-managed clubs that establish and maintain fine wine programs for their membership. These awards are meant to be a hallmark of quality and assurance of an eminent wine program and should be used to market the club’s food and beverage program to its membership. Awards are given in the categories of Distinction and Merit. On the 100 point scale, an Award of Distinction is achieved when a club scores a 90 or above and an Award of Merit is achieved when a club scores between 80 and 89. Awards of Merit: Awards of Distinction: Bel-Air Country Club, Los Angeles, CA Boca Woods Country Club, Boca Raton, FL Chevy Chase Club, Chevy Chase, MD Country Club of Little Rock, Little Rock, AR Country Club of York, York, PA Deal Golf & Country Club, Deal, NJ Des Moines Golf & Country Club, West Des Moines, IA Lakeside Golf Club, Toluca Lake, CA Long Cove Club, Hilton Head Island, SC Los Altos Golf & Country Club, Los Altos, CA Manasquan River Golf Club, Brielle, NJ Manhasset Bay Yacht Club, Port Washington, NY Menlo Circus Club, Atherton, CA Mesa Verde Country Club, Costa Mesa, CA Milwaukee Country Club, River Hills, WI Napa Valley Country Club, Napa, CA Newport Harbor Yacht Club, Newport Beach, CA Oklahoma City Golf & Country Club, Nichols Hills, OK Port Royal Club, Naples, FL Quail Ridge Country Club, Boynton Beach, FL The Roaring Fork Club, Basalt, CO Sailfish Point Country Club, Stuart, FL Sea Pines Country Club, Hilton Head Island, SC Sharon Heights Golf & Country Club, Menlo Park, CA Spring Lake Golf Club, Spring Lake Heights, NJ Bel Air Bay Club, Pacific Palisades, CA Bellerive Country Club, St. Louis, MO Big Canyon Country Club, Newport Beach, CA Birnam Wood Golf Club, Santa Barbara, CA Burlingame Country Club, Hillsborough, CA Capital City Club, Atlanta, GA Charlotte Country Club, Charlotte, NC Cherokee Town & Country Club, Atlanta, GA The Club at Las Campanas, Santa Fe, NM The Denver Country Club, Denver, CO Houston Country Club, Houston, TX Interlachen Country Club, Edina, MN International Polo Club, Wellington, FL Jonathan Club, Los Angeles, CA Lakewood Country Club, Dallas, TX The Los Angeles Country Club, Los Angeles, CA Maidstone Club, Inc., East Hampton, NY Merion Golf Club, Ardmore, PA Metropolitan Club, Washington, DC Palm Beach Yacht Club, West Palm Beach, FL Paradise Valley Country Club, Paradise Valley, AZ The Reserve Club, Indian Wells, CA River Oaks Country Club, Houston, TX St. Francis Yacht Club, San Francisco, CA University Club of Portland, Portland, OR University Club of Seattle, Seattle, WA Waverley Country Club, Portland, OR The Westmoor Club, Nantucket, MA Vol. 25 No. 1 Congratulations to these 2011 Award Winners! 4 Spring 2012 Society Happenings Sensorium Wines Jeff holds a Master of Science degree in Enology from UC Davis, one of the world’s leading schools for enology and viticulture. Dear Wine Society Members: I hope everyone who attended the CMAA 85th World Conference and Club Business Expo had a great time in NOLA and enjoyed the education, networking and of course the great hospitality and cuisine! If you were at Conference or were not able to attend and did not have the opportunity to stop by to the Wine Society Auction Preview which was held on Saturday, February 25, to look at the great wines available to bid on, you missed the opportunity to meet Jeff Richey, Winemaker and Owner of Sensorium Wines and Christopher Damon, President and Owner of Noble Vintners who graciously donated the wonderful wines to sip on while walking around the auction preview. Sensorium Wines was founded in 2002 by winemaker Jeff Ritchey and owners Lee Ritchey and John Zasio. Sensorium wines reflect the notion of terroir, of wines with a sense of place. The quality of our wine is directly connected to the earth in which it is grown. Through a combination of deft detective work, connections established through years of hands-on winemaking experience, negotiation and no small amount of luck, we have chosen these fine vineyards to realize our unique vision of winemaking. Lynch Valley Ranch Vineyard (Now Somerston) The 100 acre Lynch Valley Ranch Vineyard is located in the hills east of Rutherford in the south end of Chiles Valley (Napa Valley appellation). Block 1A was planted in 2000 and contains closely spaced, vertically trellised Clone 4 Cabernet Sauvignon on 101-14 rootstock. Located on a steep hillside with thin, red soils and a southwestern exposure, it provides an excellent environment for grapes to grow. Please enjoy the information below on Sensorium and perhaps give them a taste! Cheers, Nadine D. Rockwell, CCM Toastmaster Greater Baltimore Chapter Jeff Ritchey Sensorium Wines specializes in small lot, hand crafted wines from select vineyards in Napa Valley, the Santa Cruz Mountains and Central Coast. Our grapes are hand picked at the peak of ripeness and crushed within hours to insure that optimum flavor is maintained. MdR (Mélanges du Rhone) Vineyard This small vineyard is located southeast of Paso Robles, CA, in the cool area known as the Templeton Gap. The Templeton Gap is a low point in the Coastal Range that allows sea breezes to cool the vineyards in the afternoon. Planted to the Syrah Noir and 877 clones on tight four by six foot spacing on a vertical trellis, it yielded only two tons per acre. Jeff has worked with vineyard manager/owner Jim Allen for many years and identified this vineyard as something special. As a result of this relationship, Sensorium Wines was able to purchase the 2005 and future harvests from this vineyard. Sensorium’s award-winning winemaker was previously winemaker at Clos LaChance Winery in San Martin, CA. With his guidance, Clos LaChance increased production from 10,000 to 30,000 cases and built a new, state-of-the-art, 30,000-square-foot winery. Jeff’s wines have won numerous awards and acclaim from critics and the press. As a consultant, Jeff’s expertise has served several wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountain and Monterey areas. Uvas Creek Vineyard This amazing vineyard is, hands down, one of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, if not California. Located on a river bench below the Uvas Dam, it produces grapes of incomparable depth and flavor. Expertly tended and manicured by Bill Holt, the resulting grapes create wine with a concentration rarely seen in wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains. (continued on page 6) Vol. 25 No. 1 5 Spring 2012 Society Happenings Sensorium (continued from page 5) WINE PORTFOLIO AND TASTING NOTES 2008 Misperception Red Rhone Blend Paso Robles MdR Vineyard (Mélanges du Rhone) 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley This unique Cabernet Sauvignon was grown in two distinct areas of Napa Valley, the warmer northern reaches of Pope Valley and the cooler Coombsville district. The 2007 growing season was nearly ideal in California allowing for a long hang time on the vine and naturally low yields. This elegant and balanced wine has all the characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon including silky tannins framed with notes of cherry, cassis and raspberry fruit along with cedar, nutmeg, sweet vanilla and cocoa accents from the new oak barrels. This beautiful and elegant red Rhone blend was grown on a carefully tended vineyard south east of Paso Robles in the ‘Templeton Gap.’ Its low yield, cool climate, expert management and limestone rich soils produced small grapes with intense flavor and color. The 2008 growing season was late in California allowing for a long hang time on the vine. This wine has beautiful aromas of raspberry, blackberry, cherry, vanilla, fig, smoky bacon and toast followed by well balanced and silky tannins in the mouth. Approachable now; it will age well for years to come. 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Uvas Valley Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains 2010 Paso Robles Viognier MdR Vineyard (Mélanges du Rhone) This impressive Cabernet Sauvignon was grown in a new vineyard on the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains just west of Morgan Hill and is carefully tended by Bill Holt. He meticulously farms his vineyard to maximize quality. The 2007 growing season was nearly ideal in California allowing for a long hang time on the vine. This wine has layers of complex dark fruits, oak tones and balanced tannins. The intense aromas of blackberry, currant and cherry are framed with subtle notes of vanilla, toast, smoke and barrel spice and sit atop beautifully rich, mouth-filling tannins. This wine drinks well now, but will age for years to come. This intense and elegant Viognier was grown on a carefully tended vineyard southeast of Paso Robles in the Templeton Gap. It comes from the same vineyard as our Syrah and its low yield, cool climate, expert management and limestone rich soils produced small grapes with intense flavor and aromas. The 2010 growing season was cool and long in California, allowing great flavor development. Some say it was a challenging vintage with a heat wave during Labor Day weekend, but this vineyard made it through perfectly. This wine has concentrated aromas of apricots, peaches, mineral, bananas, orange blossom and spice along with a viscous, mouth-filling texture with tropical flavors and a lingering finish. Congratulations 2012 Bucky Award Winners It’s official; the 2012 International Wine Society Silent and Live Wine Auctions held at the World Conference and Club Business Expo in New Orleans were a success. A total of more than $36,000 was raised to benefit The Club Foundation. This year, The Club Foundation awarded a $2,000 Chapter Education grant with each Bucky Award. The Per Capita Bucky was given to the chapter with the highest average donation Vol. 25 No. 1 amount per chapter member and the Overall Bucky was given to the chapter that donates the most wine by wholesale value to the auctions. Congratulations to the Golden State Chapter for winning the Overall Bucky and the Central Pennsylvania Chapter for winning the Per Capita Bucky. Wine Society Chapter Representatives or Chapter Presidents should submit chapter’s receipts for shipping and shipping materials to CMAA National 6 Headquarters. Requests for reimbursement must be submitted no later than Friday, April 13, 2012. The wine auctions have sparked a competition among the chapters to donate the most wine by value and average donation amount per chapter member. So start planning now for your chapter’s donation to the 2013 Silent and Live Auctions to be held at the CMAA World Conference and Club Business Expo in San Diego, CA. Spring 2012 Grapevine A “Case of the Mondays” By Peter Colón Assistant General Manager, St. Francis Yacht Club, San Francisco, CA a bottle of their choice to taste against some of the region’s premiere cheeses. Typically, working professionals wake up on Monday morning to face the beginning of another work week. Most of you can agree that a “case the Mondays” is a recognizable phrase that our friends outside of the club industry face on a weekly basis. Club managers, on the other hand, tend to see Mondays as the beginning of their “weekend.” It’s a day that, when most people are working until the Wine and Cheese with David Bice closing hours of local busifrom Redwood Hill Farm and nesses, we zip around the Creamery sparsely packed streets of our cities finishing up our weekly chores. On Monday, January 30, a group of club managers in the Northern California area had the opportunity to recreate on their day off with a morning cheese tasting and an afternoon barrel tasting. After dialogue about the cheese and wine pairings, David led the group on a tour of the creamery. In every room we saw, and in the staff we met, the commitment to quality and excellence was evident in the operation at Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery. When looking for Eric Gregory, CCM, quality local product in the Bay Area, keep Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery in and Ron Banaszak, CCM, CCE, really your purchasing plans. like their new outfits. As my “Monday” hit its stride to becoming another day of envy from my friends back in their office, the group packed into their cars and headed to Freeman. Freeman Vineyard and Winery is the fruition of a 20-year dream shared by Ken and Akiko Freeman to craft elegant cool climate California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a sophisticated, Burgundian style. After descending down the driveway and into our parking space, Akiko Freeman emerged from the winery to welcome us into her home. First, we learned the story of how she and her husband, Ken, took years to find Akiko Freeman of Freeman the perfect location to produce Vineyards and Winery the acclaimed wines that we drink today. Following her introduction to the winery, we were led into the caves for a tasting of current Freeman Winery releases. Leading off was the 2010 “Ryo-fu” Chardonnay. The heart of the line-up consisted of the 2010 Sonoma Coast, Akiko’s Cuveé, Russian River and Keefer Ranch Pinot Noirs. Akiko’s special offer to barrel taste the 2011 Russian River Pinot Noir rounded out the portfolio on a high note. The day began with a 10:00 a.m. visit to Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery. After a few wrong turns on the way there, thanks to the reliable GPS, my general manager and I arrived in the parking lot of the creamery. Once inside, we joined the other Wine Society members, who were already popping the corks to the bottles of wine brought to accompany the cheeses. Redwood Hill Events and Community Relations representative, David Bice, began the morning with a warm welcome and introduction on the history of the farm. The award-winning, humane certified, Grade A goat dairy farm and creamery has been family owned and sustainably farmed since 1968. In 1978, Bice’s sister, Jennifer, assumed the ownership from their parents and expanded the business. Redwood Hill’s products range from artisan cheeses to goat milk kefir. Aging Goat Cheese at Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery Vol. 25 No. 1 David first led us through a tasting of their award-winning artisan cheeses, yogurt and kefir samples. As we sampled their Bucheret, Goat Milk Feta, Camellia, Smoked and Aged Cheddars and California Crottin cheeses, we tasted wine varietals ranging from Champagne to Cabernet Sauvignon. There was no prearranged label or varietal intended for the tasting. Instead, the attendees brought The big hitter, and my personal MVP of the tasting, was the Akiko Cuveé. Not only did this Pinot live up to my expectations of a great Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, but the story behind the Cuveé is unlike most labels I have tried. Akiko, along with winemaker Ed Kurtzman and associate winemaker, Eric Buffington, taste each barrel of Pinot in the winery from the vintage and choose their favorites. This has been done since its inaugural 2002 vintage. The Akiko Cuveé would make an immediate impact on any wine list. Not only does it show the Pinot Noir standard of excellence, but it has a great story that your front of house staff can use to sell the wine. (continued on page 8) 7 Spring 2012 Grapevine A “Case of the Mondays” (continued from page 7) As our “Monday” approached the lunch hour, Akiko invited the whole group to join her for an exclusive opportunity to dine in her home. As we ascended the hill to the architectural dream in which they reside, she leaked the buffet menu we were about to enjoy as Chef Sandra Simile completed the final touches: Butter Lettuce, Mache, Roasted Golden Beets, Bartlett Pear, Cherry Tomatoes and Laura Chenel Chevre with Citrus Dressing Balsamic, Herb and Garlic Crusted Roast Beef Top Loin with Grilled Onions and Mushrooms Parsley and Chive Buttered Red Banana Fingerling Potatoes Northern California Wine Society Members with Akiko Freeman Roasted Butternut Squash with Shallots, Chestnuts and Marjoram prietor/winemaker of a renowned winery. The experience gave a whole new meaning to the “case of the Mondays.” May Mondays, from now on, be abundant and plentiful, unless you are one of my friends, stuck punching the clock back at the office. Grilled Zucchini and Cippolini Onion Gratin German Chocolate Cake with Whipped Cream and Caramel Sauce Redwood Hill Creamery and Green Valley Organics www.redwoodhill.com contact@redwoodhill.net (707) 823-8750 A few bottles of Pinot Noir, a bunch of laughs and a couple of pictures on the deck later, the Northern California Club Managers completed lunch and retreated back down the hill to head home. Freeman Vineyards and Winery www.freemanwinery.com Akiko@FreemanWinery.com (707) 823-6937 This was a day full of camaraderie, local award-winning artisan cheeses and a surprise barrel tasting and luncheon with the pro- Registration Now Open for Annual Wine Tour 2012 Arseneaux Scholarship Winner The CMAA International Wine Society is pleased to announce the 2012 winner of the Warren L. Arseneaux Honorary Scholarship is Cindy A. Williams, CCM, of Rumson Country Club in Rumson, NJ. This scholarship was established in 2007 by the CMAA International Wine Society, to honor the late Warren L. Arseneaux, CCM, as instrumental to the founding of the Wine Society, as a Past President of CMAA and for his years of dedicated service to CMAA and the International Wine Society. The scholarship provides tuition for a CMAA International Wine Society member who has a passion and love for wine, and is interested in continuing his or her professional development, to attend the BMI Wine and Food Experience or other educational opportunity as approved by the IWS Board of Managers. Congratulations to Cindy Williams! Vol. 25 No. 1 Join the International Wine Society for a seven day, six night tour through the Napa and Sonoma Counties of California. This workshop is sure to tantalize your taste buds with some of the finest wines in the country. From the powerful Cabernet Sauvignons of Napa Valley to the delicate sparkling wines of Carneros and everything in between, this is an opportunity to enjoy all that California’s best wine-producing regions have to offer. Wine Country is ready to welcome you with open arms to the Golden State. Registration is limited to 25 participants. Full details are available here. Register today! 8 Spring 2012 Grapevine Spanish Food and Wine Experience January 20, 2012 By Merle “Bud” Worman, CCM General Manager/Chief Executive Officer Cleveland Yachting Club Rocky River, OH Each year after returning from the International Wine Society’s Annual Wine Workshop, Nancy and I present a dinner at the club for the members featuring food and wines indigenous to the area we have just toured with the Society. This year, the tour featured the wonderful wines of Spain. While attending our last night’s dinner in Madrid, we were fortunate to be seated next to the dinner’s hostess, Victoria Ordonez, General Manager for Grupo Jorge Ordonez, broker and exporter of Spanish wines. As a special treat for our club, Victoria arranged her schedule to fly from Malaga, Spain, to be the guest of honor at our event. Nancy and I were also pleased and honored to have Victoria as our house guest for three days in which time Victoria shared some of her extensive wine knowledge. As usual, the event was sold out with a waiting list and an evening of Spanish wine converts. From left to right are Merle Worman, CCM, Victoria Ordonez, Nancy Worman and Gary Twining, a certified wine educator. Vol. 25 No. 1 9 Spring 2012 Grapevine A Whirlwind Tour of the Santa Barbara Wine Country By Terry Anglin, CCM, CCE General Manager, San Diego Yacht Club, San Diego, CA Having made it through the busy holiday season at San Diego Yacht Club, we needed to get away and take a break. The thought was to head to Santa Barbara and determine if there was any wine left in the area after the holidays. The good news is there was. noted, their Syrah. While it was very good, it did not hold a candle to the Sangiovese. Once again, I pulled out my wallet and walked out with a blended case heavy on the Sangiovese. We jumped back in the car and headed toward Solvang, the quaint little Danish town in the Santa Barbara county. Just outside of town we found Blackjack Ranch Vineyards and Winery. There we were met by Allison. We ran through the wines listed on the tasting sheet and then came across a delicious meritage Blackjack calls “Allusion.” The juice is a blend of Merlot, Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and has a ton of black fruit, cocoa and expresso. They also have a sign stating that “unattended children will be given an expresso and free puppy.” I am assuming they want you to watch your kids. We were unsure of where to begin but finally settled on the little town of Los Olivos to begin our search for little unknown gems from the area. Los Olivos is basically a town with one twolane road and shops, restaurants and wine tasting rooms on both sides. Our first stop took us to a small one room cabin type tasting room that bore a sign saying “Carhart Vineyards.” As we stepped in, we were greeted by a lady named Robin who welcomed us with a glass of Grenache Blanc. The wine had an apple and honeysuckle nose with a finishing palate of citrus cream. Delightful. Robin’s next pour was the Carhart Sauvignon Blanc, an explosion of tropical fruit and citrus. This was followed by a Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah. The whole line was top notch and it was tempting, but since this was the first stop, we were using the spit buckets. We purchased the Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Syrah. Back in the car, we drove into downtown Santa Barbara towards the tasting rooms area. After walking for 35 minutes, we finally located the last stop of the day – Carr Winery. Since it was now 4:00 p.m., we were done with the spit buckets. The first glass was the Carr Pinot Gris. The wine is aged in stainless steel for only five months and has a nose of apples and pears and a long, slightly acidic finish, quite the palate cleanser. We then began working our way through their Pinot Noirs of which they produce three. Our favorite was the 2009 Three Vineyards Pinot from Santa Rita Hills. The wine has a unique floral nose with a spicy mid-palate and deep dry finish. Of course we ended up carrying some bottles for home use – again. Moving down Grand Avenue, the next stop was another boutique style winery called Stolpman. Stolpman is located in a small unassuming little house just down from the Flagpole, the center of town and Grand Avenue. We started off with their L’Avion, a Roussanne; quite impressive. The second tasting was the Stolpman Sauvignon Blanc, again a winner. Now we were getting warmed up so it was on to the Sangiovese, the BEST wine of the day! An incredible combination of fruit, tannins with a great mouthfeel. We did not spit this one. The Sangio was followed by the wine for which Stolpman is There you have it. The end of a great day of tasting in Santa Barbara. We attained our goal of finding some new fun wines that we had never tried before. If you have the opportunity to get to this area, give these four wineries a try. Tell them Terry and Denise sent you; maybe they’ll give you a puppy. By the Glass Rosé Wine: Not Your Typical Pink Wine By Keith Collora Reliable Churchill Simply put, rosés get their color in the same way red wines do – the fermentation of the grapes with their red skins during fermentation. The production of a rosé can be done using three different mechanisms. As far as rosé making goes, the method used most frequently is by combining the juice from the grape with the skin for a short amount of time, typically one to three days. Every spring I go through the same ritual with myself. I tell myself that this will be the year of the rosé. Although it has been consistently produced, it hasn’t seen the type of growth that fans like me expect of it. It is a wine that seems to have an identity crisis, never being able to break free from either being a red or white wine. Over the last couple of years however, rosés are growing in popularity and are gaining their independence. Vol. 25 No. 1 The saignée method, or bleeding method, is a byproduct 10 Spring 2012 By the Glass Rosé Wine: Not Your Typical Pink Wine of red winemaking. During red wine production a portion of juice is removed from the tank during its primary fermentation (which intensifies the red wine flavor and tannin structure). The removed “juice” has had little contact with skin which makes it suitable for use with rosé wine making. The types of wines that we typically see from this method of wine production are sweeter blush wines such as white zinfandels. these grapes produce rose wines that serve a purpose: food pairing. Rosés are typically lower alcohol with high acid wines. Higher acid wines make them very food friendly especially with shellfish and lighter fare. The residual tannins from the winemaking process give them extra body and complexity that you won’t find in many white wines. Here are a couple of stunning examples of rosés: The third method is one that isn’t readily accepted with the exception of making some sparkling rosé wines. This involves blending white and red wines to get the desired color and flavor profile. It is not favorable because this is a disruption of the wine’s integrity. In fact, European law doesn’t allow for a wine to be called a rosé if it has been made in this fashion. • Domaine De Gournier Rosé – Domaine de Gournier is owned by Maurice Barnouin and located on the western edge of the Rhône Valley, north of the city of Nîmes. Brightly colored, the red berry fruits in the nose and on the palate are accented by notes of spice and a touch of earth. The roots of rosé can be traced back to 600 BC in ancient Greece. During this time, all of the wines that were produced were what we would call rosé. Knowledge and necessity dictated that the skins didn’t need to be in prolonged contact with the juice. Wine was considered safer than the water in the rivers and streams and was consumed in larger volumes. It would be almost 500 years later before the Romans would begin to intensify their red wines to make something more reminiscent of what we see today. • Domaine St Eugene Corbières Rosé – Domaine Sainte Eugénie is positioned within the district of Fontfroide. The estate is located within the foothills of the Pyrénées along the Mediterranean coast. This rosé is a blend of 75 percent Cinsault, 15 percent Syrah and 10 percent Grenache. The result is a bright rosé displaying fresh raspberry with a slight touch of mineral and dried herbs with a dry finish. • Domaine du Tariquet – The Grassa family is known primarily for making Armagnac, however, the newest generation of children have begun making some great still wines. This is a rosé made using the same vinification process as for white wine. Serve it chilled, before or during a meal. It is excellent with tapas, summer dishes, Italian food or spicy cuisine. Romans were also the first people to bring this style of wine to France. Through their conquests they planted grapes throughout the country. They planted “Clairet,” a dark rosé wine which is nearly extinct today in Provence. In this region, wine production was abundant during the Middle Ages as monasteries used rosé production as a source of income. • Montes Cherub – Montes Cherub is 100 percent Syrah from the Archangel Estate in Marchiqüe. It is an elegant, dry rosé wine. This wine is fresh and well balanced. It has a bright intense pink color. Both on the nose and palate it has a distinct Syrah character, with some spiciness and hints of strawberries and lively floral flavors, mainly rosés as well as orange peel. In the 20th century, railroads opened up new markets for Provencal wine. As the tourism industry grew up along the Côte d’Azur, rosé production increased exponentially. In 1935, the Institute National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) was founded to define and establish the terroir and production criteria for individual winegrowing regions called AOCs. Everything changed for rosés in the 1970s when demand for white wines from California exceeded production. This is where the saignée method allowed winemakers to make blush wines out of red wine batches. This resulted initially in wines of a drier variety until a few sweeter test batches revealed a whole new opportunity for the wine market. Once this revelation was made, the dry rosé market as we knew it was officially destroyed for years – just as a single line in the movie Sideways hurt merlot sales and forced winemakers to refocus their efforts. Today, we are seeing a rebirth of rosés from areas in Portugal, France, Spain, Canada, Australia and the US. Winemakers are using grape varieties outside the traditional Syrah, Grenache and Carignane. They are doing so because Vol. 25 No. 1 • Etude Rosé of Pinot Noir – This salmon pink rosé of Pinot Noir has aromas of enticing red fruits and blood orange with lush flavors of wild strawberries and rhubarb have balanced acidity and bright finish. Today dry rosé is finally gaining popularity in the US as not only a seasonal drink, but a legitimate category of wine that can often translate variety and terroir with great intensity. You will find them to be very different from their blush counterparts. 11 Spring 2012 Society Happenings The International Wine Society Welcomes Its New Members Member: Club: Recruited by: John Albright Jason Asbra Anthony Barnhart Kendal Brown Bilained Casado Greg Clark Chris Clodfelter Peter Colon Richard Fairman, CCM Eric French Robert J. Green Jr., CCM, CCE Charlotte Hillery-Welman, CCM Christian Hull Jennifer LePage Amy Lewis Luis Moreira James J. Paris Ken Puttman Randall J. Rice, CCM Frederick J. Rickey, CCM Ron G. Ruffner Jr., CCM Thomas Shonkwiler, CCM Felix Solomon Michael J. Territo, CCM Christian A. Varas Tom Walberg Bob Wilkinson Nissequogue Golf Club Claremont Country Club Dunes Golf & Beach Club Carlouel Yacht Club Spring Brook Country Club Sea Pines Country Club Hermitage Country Club St. Francis Yacht Club Barry L. Chandler Eric Gregory, CCM Colin Mack-Allen, CCM Dave E. Bachman, CCM Robert J. Green Jr., CCM, CCE Ronald A. Banaszak, CCM, CCE Warwick Hills Golf & Country Club Kathleen A. Muneio, CCM, CCE The Club at Las Campanas Royal Palm Yacht & Country Club Wianno Club Lakewood Country Club Wianno Club Horseshoe Bay Golf Club Canoe Brook Country Club Dunwoody Country Club Waverley Country Club Marietta Country Club Northampton Country Club Sunnybrook Golf Club Governors Club The Faculty Club Round Hill Club River Oaks Country Club The Chicago Club Merion Golf Club Jeff S. Isbell, CCM Eric J. Dietz, CCM Jeff S. Isbell, CCM Kimberly L. Condit, CCM Larry Lane Peel Jr., CCM Mitchell B. Marron Eric Gregory, CCM Michael L. Catanzaro, CCM, CCE Maria McGinity Timothy T. Stein Clive L. Smith Test Your Wine Knowledge Annually, Wine Society members have the opportunity to test their wine knowledge at the Annual Wine Society Business Meeting and Education Session. Did you miss this year’s event or would you like to test a member of your staff? The 2012 test was created by Paul F. Anthony, CCM, CCE, of Blackhawk Country Club in Madison, WI. Download the complete test here. Vol. 25 No. 1 12 Spring 2012