bangkok tokyo pusan
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bangkok tokyo pusan
CHANGING ASIA Religious freedom in China POPDOM Stars’ slave contracts TRAVEL BITES Postcard perfect OCTOBER 8-21, 2010 TOKYO PUSAN BANGKOK US$3 / Bt100 ISSN 19052650 9 771905 265009 28701 28701 PHOTO by A F P Want more from business travel? 805 lounges Alliance-wide. You’ve earned it. As a Star Alliance Gold member, you’ll have access to 805 airport lounges across the alliance to relax in before you fly. To find out more about our rewards visit staralliance.com www.staralliance.com Information correct as at 09/2008 Film Feasts I t was once said that going to the movies was a cheap form of entertainment where for more than an hour, people can forget their problems and experience a different reality. These days, however, the cost of a movie ticket has become more expensive than an average meal so the box-office profits have not been good. Film-making has become more expensive too with production costs and talent fees going up. In addition, film-makers battle against technology that makes it easy to download movies illegally, mass-produce and sell them on the streets for less. It is against this backdrop that film festivals in Asia continue to mount their annual feasts for movie buffs. This month, two major film festivals happen in the region: The Tokyo International Film Festival (TIFF) and the Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF). Both of them have been instrumental in putting Asian films on the world map. Aside from the problems previously mentioned, these festivals also face funding woes and lack of government support. Despite these, there is much optimism that these festivals won’t only show the rest of the world how far Asian cinema has come, but also to raise the taste of the movie-going public. Films have also ceased to merely offer an escape from reality, but they have become a medium in raising the public’s awareness on certain issues. TIFF and PIFF are not the only festivals the region has to offer. There is the World Film Festival Bangkok next month, and many others like the Golden Horse for Chinese language films, Shanghai Film Festival, Cinemanila Film Festival and the Hong Kong International Film Festival. There are many to choose from and each festival offers a wealth of films from talented film-makers in the region and around the world. See you at the movies! Asia News Network asianewsnet@gmail.com PH OTO by AFP OCTOBE R8-21, 2010 • V o l 5 8 N o 2 0 COVER STORY Battle Of The Film Fests P8 The mood at Asian film festivals is still optimistic despite unending problems of piracy and funding POLITICS P20 TECHNOLOGY P40 Sri Lanka Shuns West The South Asian country finds solace in emerging powers’ arms Talking With Our Thumbs Twitter is becoming a real counter power in Indonesia BUSINESS P24 SPORTS P42 Bangkok Bounces Back Thailand’s capital is showing signs of resurgence after the riots Winning The Race Why the fit, young and good-looking Filipinos don’t win the ‘Amazing Race’ CHANGING ASIA P26 TRAVEL BITES P44 The Big Switch China is becoming more generous in granting religious freedom Postcard Perfect Leave Facebook and Twitter alone; send real postcards SPECIAL REPORT P16 THE VIEW P6 The China-Japan Row Every time the two cross words, it has a chilling effect on Asean F E AT U R E S LIFESTYLE P30 EXPLORE P48 Amazing Trip In Chiang Mai Thailand’s Flower City is quiet and unassuming ‘Plasticine’ Generation Burned out, empty and numbed MUSIC P38 Jazzing Through Tokyo Streets A novel way to explore the sights and soundtrack of Tokyo COVE R IM AG E | I l lustratio n by Nibho n Appakarn/Asia n ews n etwork Copyright © 2006 of Asia News Network. All rights reserved. AsiaNews (ISSN 1905-2650) is a weekly magazine. Printed by WPS (Thailand) Co, Ltd Subsidiary of Nation Multimedia Group Plc. WRITE, FAX, EMAIL Please include sender’s name and address to: anneditor@nationgroup.com | Asia News Network Nation Multimedia Group Plc 1854 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 4.5), Bangna, Bangkok 10260 Thailand.Tel: (662)338 3333 Fax: (662)338 3964 Subscription inquries: Nation Multimedia Group Plc 1854 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 4.5), Bangna, Bangkok 10260 Thailand.Tel: (662)338 3333 Call Center: (662)338 3000 press 1 Fax: (662)338 3964 James Ro n g/A sia News Network The Party Begins The dazzling Commonwealth Games opening has erased weeks of negative news The View By Kavi Chongkittavorn The Nation (Thailand) The China-Japan Row Every time the two countries cross words, it has a chilling effect on Asean that has maintained close ties with both v Bangkok PH OTO BY JAPA N COAST G UA RD/AF P I n the past five years, the dramatic improvement in China and Japan’s relations have accelerated and strengthened community building in East Asia as well as the region’s international relations. The Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) has quickly built on the newly found pillar. But the recent squabbling over the disputed Diaoyu/Sentaku Islands has shown the fragility of one of the most important bilateral ties in Asia. Every time the two countries cross words, it has a chilling effect on Asean that has maintained close ties with both. Apparently, this time around the implications will be felt much more strongly and won’t easily fade away. For one reason, Beijing viewed recent multiple spats over the maritime territorial problems with Japan, Korea and Asean as attempts to undermine China’s rise and growing influence in the region. The conspicuous absence of Asean views over the island dispute indicates the high level of sensitivity of overlapping claims in the maritime territories in which Asean members are also entrenched. Asean has chosen to remain mute as four Asean claimants—Malaysia, Philippines, Viet Nam and Brunei—are currently trying to end the eight-year impasse with China over the proposed joint cooperation in the resource-rich areas of the South China Sea (SCS). After the Asean ministerial meeting in July in Ha Noi, the AseanChina relations fundamentally shifted—no longer mutually treated as a preference—as the SCS was given an international highlight as never seen before. For the time being, Asean leaders still heed China’s advice and subsequently worked out with the US not to mention the SCS disputes in the joint statement which followed their second leaders’ 6• meeting in New York on September 24. It was China’s triumphant diplomatic move— but a short lived one. As it turned out, China’s unusual strong response to Japan has resonated quite negatively on the region. The Asean claimants have deciphered the Chinese reactions and one message was succinctly clear—the issue of territorial integrity and sovereignty would not be compromised—no matter which country was involved. As such, the future Asean-China negotiations over the SCS could be further complicated as the two sides are trying to decide whether to proceed with the proposed cooperation before settling the overlapping claims. Asean claimants constantly fear that without proper agreement, let alone settlement, of the overlapping sovereignty claims, the future cooperation—as detailed in the Declaration of Code of Conducts for Concerned Parties in South China Sea (2002)—could not proceed. Now Asean is quite concerned that Beijing’s unyielding position could spread to the management of the SCS dispute and hamper any future peaceful settlement. One frequently asked question: Is China utilising the same yardstick used against Japan in handling its territorial disputes with Asean? If that is the trend, one can expect a bumpy road ahead for the Asean-China friendship, even though Asean is not siding with either Japan or China. At the moment, growing interconnectedness of maritime security issues in East Asia, especially the freedom and safety of sea lane navigation, DISPUTED: A file handout picture shows a Chinese fishing boat, which was seized by a Japanese Coast Guard patrol boat, near a group of disputed islands on September 7. have drawn international attention and involvement. All countries in the region, especially China, rely on free and safe access stretching from the Straits of Malacca, Lombok and Sunda Straits to the vast SCS maritime territories. Various security-related forums, including the expanded Asean Defence Ministers’ Meeting Plus, which will take place later this month in Ha Noi, Asean Regional Forum (ARF) and East Asia Summit (EAS), can be used to discuss this topic. In more ways than one, the state of China-Japan relations will serve as a October 8-21, 2010 test case for overall diplomatic resilience in East Asia in the long run. For decades, Asean has benefited from the China-Japan rivalry by playing off each other, especially prior to 2005. For instance, Asean smartly used China’s Asean-oriented policies, especially on a free trade arrangement in 2000, to bargain for more incentives from Japan. Before Japan signed the Treaty of Amity and Cooperation five years ago, Japan had to contend with Asean’s China-firs t s tand, despite Tokyo’s humongous financial aid. Back then Tokyo did not have the same October 8-21, 2010 level playing field as Beijing. Now China and Japan are no longer considered outsiders by Asean. With China recently replacing Japan as the world No. 2 economy, Japan has quickly come to grips with this new reality by examining its foreign policy towards Asean, which has been concentrated on trade and investment. New diplomatic approaches towards Asean by the government of Japanese Prime Minister Naoto Kan will be announced at the East Asia Summit in Ha Noi later this month. It will focus on broadening the scope of cooperation, especially in science and technology, as well as in traditional and non-traditional security issues. More Asean-Japan engagement at the track-two level are also to be expected. China’s high-handed manner towards Japan will inevitably strengthen the dialogue and cooperation among members of the Asean Plus Three and EAS. The latter forum focusing on strategic matters could become a focal point in mitigating and balancing China’s influence through dialogue and consultation, as in the early years of ARF. With the future membership of the US and Russia, the 18-member EAS would quickly become the region’s premium East Asian security platform to express their views, individually or as a group, on their mutual concerns. Asean no longer plays the role of fulcrum as it once enjoyed, as it has upgraded to a 10-member team player. Therefore, it is in China’s interest to find as soon as possible a modus operandi with Asean over the SCS. More delay, which has been the case in the past eight years, could be further exploited by outsiders. At this juncture, real negotiations on the SCS territorial claims will still have to be “bilateral” between China and Asean claimants. The quicker both sides can agree on the guidelines for their joint cooperation, the better for the health of Asean-China relations and regional stability. Once all concerned parties kick off their cooperation, China and the four Asean claimants could sit down, pair by pair, and conduct bilateral negotiations to end their conflicting claims. •7 COVER STORY ASIA’S FILM FESTIVALS By Yasmin Lee Arpon Asia News Network and Song Woong-ki The Korea Herald Photos by A F P Hong Kong Tokyo Battle Of The Film Fests Asian film festivals continue to struggle for government support and fight PIRACY; despite these, the mood is optimistic G P hoto by AF P ❖ Bangkok/Seoul Pusan 8• October 8-21, 2010 oing to the movies these days in Asia is not exactly cheap. In Bangkok’s modern cineplexes, it costs 160 baht or about US$5. That’s five times more expensive than an average meal of 30 baht (less than $1). Of course that is still cheaper compared with Europe where a movie costs 12 euros ($16), but compared to an average meal over there, going to the cinema is still certainly cheaper. October 8-21, 2010 For many, it is cheaper to download movies from the Internet or buy bootleg copies dirt cheap. In the Philippines, for example, a pirated DVD with 20 movies in it can cost as low as 70 US cents. Asian festivals struggle with these conditions year after year—jostling for government support, searching for sponsors and fighting the pirates. Despite these problems, the mood remains very much upbeat. “The important role of film festivals is to introduce excellent films Movie Index City CostUS$ Tokyo 1,800 yen 21 Seoul 8,000 won 7 160 baht 5 200 pesos 4.5 HK$50 6 Bangkok Manila Hong Kong •9 Pusan which are not yet screened anywhere in the world, and to screen films which are difficult to distribute on commercial basis even if they are acclaimed internationally,” said Nobushige Toshima, secretary general of the Tokyo International Film Festival (TIFF) in an email interview with AsiaNews. Toshima said film festivals ought to encourage more discriminate film taste because those movies that 10 • are available on the Internet or DVDs are commercial ones. “Film festivals still have a strong role in fascinating the film fans even today. I believe by screening films which could only be seen in the film festival, this would lead the fans to appreciate the basic principle in watching a film in the theatre.” Toshima, however, noted that despite the financial backing from the government, “it is not easy to main- tain the equivalent amount of support every year”. This year, TIFF cost 800 million yen ($9.6 million) to mount. The Japanese government shouldered only 30 per cent of the total amount. This is the same problem faced by the World Film Festival of Bangkok, which is on its eighth year. “The government doesn’t care about art because it has other concerns,” said Dusit Silakong, assistant festival director. This is considering that the festival costs as low as 1.3 million baht ($43,000) to organise. Dusit compared their festival to the Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF), which he noted has full government support and thus, has successfully transformed itself into one of the biggest film festivals in Asia. But even the PIFF has its share of funding problems as revealed by its executive chairman, Kim Dong-ho, 73, who is stepping down this year after 15 years of being at the helm. Since its inception in 1996, the PIFF has turned Busan into a cauldron of celebrity glitz from around Asia. In its relatively short history, the festival has had a significant impact on discovering new talent behind the camera as well as contributing to the growth of the Korean film industry. Kim was the globe-trotting, talismanic figure who tirelessly brokered seemingly impossible deals that helped boost PIFF’s international profile. Still, there is one thing Kim regrets during his tenure that even he could not fix and that is the lack of financial support from the government. “If there’s been any regrets it’s always been our issue with our operating budget,” Kim said during a recent interview with The Korea Herald. “There is a need to establish a financial foundation that would ensure that the festival would have enough funds to be operated in a more stable manner.” The festival, Kim said, operates on about 10 billion won ($8.75 million) provided by the city of Busan, the culOctober 8-21, 2010 ture, sports and tourism ministry and various corporate sponsors. The Cannes Film Festival, in comparison, costs an average of 20 million euros ($272 million), of which an estimated half is provided by France’s culture ministry. In light of such a gulf in the level of state sponsorship between the two festivals, Kim is adamant that the PIFF receiving just 15 per cent of its budgetary support from the government is a major concern. “This year, 59 per cent of our 10 billion won ($9 million) was footed by the city of Busan while only 15 per cent was from the government and the rest about 760 million won was through corporate sponsors,” Kim said. “Attracting enough sponsors to fill up the rest of the projected budget is another difficult task we go through each year.” He further lamented the anemic support, citing a broken agreement the current administration committed to in 2008. “Just before President Lee Myung-bak assumed office, the presidential transition committee promised us they would put aside 100 billion won for the festival that was set in stone but once (President Lee) officially took office, that promise collapsed,” Kim said. “It is my wish that the city of Busan and our government cooperate with one another to establish a fund that will amount to about 100 billion won every year for the festival. That would give it some breathing room.” Despite running the festival under cash-strapped circumstances, the festival has become the most successful international film festival in Korea, pulling in an estimated average of 50 billion won ($45.4 million) in revenue to the city. Its success also triggered copycat film festivals that have sprung up all over Korea, where there are currently over 70 film festivals. The behind-the-scenes story of how the festival came to be is a typical story of an underdog working against October 8-21, 2010 P hoto by AF P Photo by AF P COVER STORY ASIA’S FILM FESTIVALS Pusan all odds. None had given Kim and crew a chance to turn PIFF into a success. But they proved the skeptics wrong with the inaugural festival when nearly 200,000 visitors from around the country participated. “We were determined to turn the festival into a success. The skeptics were pessimistic initially,” Kim said. “Our primary goal to discover new film-makers and focus on making the festival exclusively a celebration of Asian films really became the driving force that propelled it to become the region’s representative,” he added. There are other film festivals in the region like the Shanghai International Film Festival and the Hong Kong International Film Festival. The Cinemanila International Film Festival focuses on Southeast Asian films while Taiwan’s Golden Horse Film Festival puts the spotlight on Chinese • 11 COVER STORY ASIA’S FILM FESTIVALS The Nation (Thai land) Major film festivals in Asia Golden Horse Film Festival and Awards since 1962 Regional, for Chinese language films; includes mainland films since 1996 http://www.goldenhorse.org.tw Bangkok language films and has included those from the mainland since 1996. This year, both the TIFF and the PIFF are screening several films from Taiwan. The PIFF is also awarding the Film-maker of the Year to Tsai Ming-liang, who while born in Malaysia, is credited as one of the movers of the ‘Second New Wave’ of Taiwan Cinema. The TIFF, meanwhile, has dedicated a special section to Taiwanese films dubbed as ‘Taiwanese Cinema Renaissance: New Breeze of the Rising Generation’. “The Taiwanese film industry attained world attention in the 1980s and 1990s owing to Hou Hsao Hsien, Edward Yang and other great artistic film-makers, but after that, it had been stagnant for a while,” noted Kenji Ishizaka, programme director of TIFF’s Winds of Asia Middle-East section, in an email interview with AsiaNews. “But in 2008, beginning with the smash hit Cape No. 7, new generation directors have produced many successful films and now Taiwan’s film industry is going through another renaissance period.” Despite a healthy mix of Asian and Western films in its line-up, the TIFF appears to be making an effort to pay more attention to Asian cinema. This year, it also honours Hong Kong star Bruce Lee and director 12 • Akira Kurosawa in separate sections. Ishizaka said Lee and Kurosawa are two giants, not just in Asian cinema but also worldwide. He added that this year marks the 70th and 100th anniversaries of Lee’s and Kurosawa’s births, respectively. “It is natural for us, as Japanese, as Asians, to celebrate and dedicate homage to their achievements and feature their films,” he said. He added that the section on Kurosawa features films from other parts of the world that took their influence from the Japanese director. Yoshi Yatabe, programme director for TIFF’s competition section said the film festival wants to introduce a considerable number of Asian films to the world as part of its mission. But when it comes to Asian cinema, PIFF is still the bigger stage. PIFF’s Kim Dong-ho said the festival has found its niche by focusing on Asian films. “This is where the Pusan International Film Festival came in and found our niche and this is why we were quite confident that our festival would work,” he said. “In 2002, at a summit which invited the executive chairmen of film festivals around the world, ours was seen to be the key film festival representative of Asia, Africa, and Central America. That showed our labour had paid off,” he concluded. Hong Kong International Film Festival since 1977 http://www.hkiff.org.hk Tokyo International Film Festival since 1985 http://www.tiff-jp.net/en/ Shanghai International Film Festival since 1993 One of the biggest film festivals in Asia http://www.siff.com/ Pusan International Film Festival since 1996 http://www.piff.org Cinemanila International Film Festival since 1999 Focuses on Southeast Asian films http://cinemanila.org/ Bangkok International Film Festival since 2003 http://www.bangkokfilm.org/ World Film Festival of Bangkok since 2003 http://www.worldfilmbkk.com/ October 8-21, 2010 COVER STORY ASIA’S FILM FESTIVALS “Public space can be won back only through quality.” Gustavo Restrepo, Architect, winner of the Holcim Awards Gold 2008 Latin America: Urban integration of an informal area, Medellín, Colombia. Hot Summer Days (China/Hong Kong/Taiwan) 23rd Tokyo International Film Festival October 23-31 Opening film: The Social Network (USA) Closing film: The Town (USA) Taiwanese Cinema Renaissance: MONGA, Juliets, Taipei Exchanges, The Fourth 15th Pusan International Film Festival October 7-15 Opening film: Under the Hawthorn Tree (China) Asian films featured: A Beautiful Mistake (China/ Hong Kong), Abraxas (Japan), Addicted to Love (China), Aftershock (China), Au Revoir, Taipei (Taiwan); BI, Don’t Be Afraid (Viet Nam/Germany/France), Blood Ties (Philippines), Chassis (Philippines), Clerk (India), Cold Fish (Japan), Dancing Chaplin (Japan), Thirteen Assassins (Japan) 14 • Chongqing Blues (Taiwan/China) Hi-So (Thailand) Portrait, Zoom Hunting, Let the Wind Carry Me Asia Middle East: Magic (South Korea), Passerby #3 (South Korea), Chongqing Blues (China/Taiwan), Hot Summer Days (Hong Kong-China), All About Love (Hong Kong), Love in a Puff (Hong Kong), Hi-So (Thailand), The Tiger Factory + Inhalation (Malaysia/ Japan), Red Dragonflies (Singapore); Ways of the Sea and HALAW (The Philippines), Raavan (India), Camellia (Japan/ Thailand) Bruce Lee: Game of Death, Enter the Dragon, Return of the Kung Fu Masters and The Legend is Alive Spirit of Kurosawa: The Valiant Ones, Flames of the Sun, Run Away, Haifa Japanese Eyes: Wandering Home, A Liar and a Broken Girl, hospitalité, Birthright, Successional Tradition of Noh, FIT, 442—Live With Honor, Die With Dignity, Your Home Donor (Philippines), Driverless (China), Emir (Philippines), Haru’s Journey (Japan), Here Comes the Bride, My Mom (Japan), Hi-So (Thailand), Karma (Sri Lanka), Kites (India/US/ Mexico), Love in a Puff (Hong Kong/China), Magic and Loss (Japan/ Malaysia/Korea/Hong Kong/ China/France), My Ex-wife’s Wedding (China/Hong Kong/Korea), My Mongolian Mother (China), No. 89 Shimen Road (China/ Netherlands), Noise (India), Outrage (Japan), Pear (China), Pinoy Sunday (Taiwan/Philippines/Japan/ France), Railways (Japan), Reign of Assassins (China/ Hong Kong/Taiwan), Sandcastle (Singapore), Strangers in the City (Japan), Taipei Exchanges (Taiwan), The Ditch (China/ France/Belgium), The Drunkard (Hong Kong), The Fourth Portrait (Taiwan), The Little Comedian (Thailand), The Red Eagle (Thailand), The Tiger Factory (Malaysia/Japan), Thirteen Assasins (Japan), Toilet (Japan/Canada), Udaan (India), Villain (Japan), Virgin Goat (India/France), Wangliang’s Ideal (China), Wararaifu!! (Japan), Welcome to Shama Town (China), Year Without a Summer (Malaysia), Zoom Hunting (Taiwan) Under The Hawthorn Tree (China) 8th World Film Festival Bangkok November 5-14 Opening film: Eternity (Thailand) Asian Contemporary: At The End of Daybreak (Malaysia), Au Revoir, Taipei (Taiwan), The Child of the Sun (Philippines), Crossing the Mountain (China), Eternity (Thailand), Insects in the Backyard (Thailand), The Man beyond the Bridge (India), Memories of a Burning Tree (Tanzania/ Singapore), The Night Infinite (Philippines), No Puedo Vivir Sin Ti (Taiwan), Red Dragonflies (Singapore), Spine on Shine (Japan), The Well (India) October 8-21, 2010 Develop new perspectives for our future: 3 rd International Holcim Awards competition for projects in sustainable construction. Prize money totals USD 2 million. www.holcimawards.org In partnership with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH Zurich), Switzerland; the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, USA; Tongji University, Shanghai, China; Universidad Iberoamericana, Mexico City; and the Ecole Supérieure d’Architecture de Casablanca, Morocco. The universities lead the independent juries in five regions of the world. Entries at www.holcimawards.org close March 23, 2011. The Holcim Awards competition is an initiative of the Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction. Based in Switzerland, the foundation is supported by Holcim Ltd and its Group companies and affiliates in more than 70 countries. Holcim is one of the world’s leading suppliers of cement and aggregates as well as further activities such as ready-mix concrete and asphalt including services. SPECIAL REPORT By Abdul Hafiz The Straits Times FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS: Fireworks light up the sky as performers dance underneath the aerostat during the XIX Commonwealth Games opening ceremony at the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium in New Delhi on October 3. RITUAL: Britain’s Prince Charles, Prince of Wales, places the Queen’s Baton in its holder. Photos by A FP The Party Begins PROUD: Indian President Pratibha Patil addresses the XIX Commonwealth Games opening ceremony. 16 • “D ❖ New Delhi The dazzling opening ceremony for the Commonwealth Games has erased weeks of negative news that threatened to derail India’s most expensive sporting event so far October 8-21, 2010 elhi, tum tayaar ho?” (Delhi, are you ready?) And with that all-significant question reverberating in the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium on October 3, a spectacular festival of light and music celebrating 5,000 years of rich Indian tradition launched the most expensive and scrutinised Commonwealth Games in the event’s 80-year history. As drummers pounded on giant drums, as seats shook and the crowd marvelled at a 700-million-rupee (US$15.75 million) helium balloon as it rose to serve as a unique floating October 8-21, 2010 film screen and the talent of sevenyear-old tabla prodigy Keshava, organisers were hoping that weeks of negative news that threatened to derail the New Delhi Games would be erased and replaced with stories of sporting achievement. India has spent $6 billion on its first major Games since the 1982 Asian Games to showcase a country on the rise; one that has moved beyond ethnic and religious divisions, and deserves its place alongside Britain, its former colonial master. After the 71 Commonwealth members took their place on the field, the beleaguered organising committee chairman Suresh Kalmadi stood up to boos. But the crowd roared into a forgiving applause after he declared: “India is ready. India’s big moment is finally here.” “There have been delays and challenges but we have risen to the challenges and we can do it. Despite the adverse publicity, all the Commonwealth nations have stood by India.” From October 4-14, India will host 6,700 athletes and officials, almost a thousand more than the previous high of 5,766 at the 2006 Melbourne Games. The last few months have seen the shooting of two Taiwanese tourists in New Delhi, monsoon rains that threatened to spoil last-minute construction, a dengue outbreak, a collapsed pedestrian bridge outside the main stadium, the pull-out of several top sports stars for health and security issues, accusations of corruption and the Games being criticised for an ‘unliveable’ Athletes’ Village that was home to dogs and snakes. But most of those concerns have been addressed in the short time before the opening ceremony. The crowning jewel of the Games, the 60,000-seat Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium—that was refurbished at the cost of 9.61 billion rupees ($216 million) and hosted 8,000 performers on the opening day—is a stunning sight. Venues have been described as world-class. The Games Village now, said Singapore veteran shooter Lee Wung Yew, is the best he has seen, remembering how at the last Games in Melbourne, the athletes were put up in spruced-up containers. Even the new addition to the metro line opened on October 3, just in time to take spectators to the stadium for the three-hour extravaganza. And over 28,000 policemen have been deployed at venues to ward off the threat of a terrorist attack, but the high security has caused frustration among athletes and journalists. But the lavish opening ceremony that combined past and present, from the ancient art of yoga to the current beats of Bollywood, has given India a fresh slate—and athletes something to cherish. THE MASCOT: Shera, the New Delhi Commonwealth Games mascot, performs for the crowd during an opening ceremony pre-show. • 17 SPECIAL REPORT By Rohit Brijnath The Straits Times MEDALS: Malaysia’s Chong Ming Chan and Kien Keat Koo pose with their medals for the badminton men’s doubles titles at the Commonwealth Games in Melbourne in March 2006. The Medal’s Value Never mind if the field is thin, a medal means the world on the podium T Photos by A FP ❖ Singapore he medal, at most Games, hangs from a ribbon; it is round, it is roughly the same size, it is received on similar podiums. Yet its import varies. It is not as if athletes arrange medals in order of value on their walls. All matter. As Katie Mactier, former Australian track cyclist, who owns Olympic silver, world championship gold, and Commonwealth Games gold, told The Straits Times: 18 • “All hold obstacles (to get there). They all signify hard work.” But she concedes: “The Olympics is on top because you’re racing everybody.” Athletes know medals may be of the same weight but have a different heft. It is a subject under scrutiny because not everyone is certain what to make of the Commonwealth Games: What is its use? What worth is its medal? Suggested first by a Reverend in 1891 as a sporting festival for the Em- pire, the Commonwealth Games commenced in 1930. Then, it was the British Empire Games; now, for some, it is a bunch of former colonies, who ironically run a Queen’s Baton Relay, banging athletic shoulders every four years. The planet is littered with multidiscipline carnivals, from the obscure (Arctic Winter Games) to the strange (Afro-Asian Games) to the known (Pan-American Games, Southeast Asian Games). But for most, geography is the pull, the binder, like the Asian Games which tests those within a continent. Even the Olympics meets this definition, for its region is the planet. But the Commonwealth, a forum for disparate nations to engage with each other, is a loose conglomeration and a wide one. Bits of Europe, parts of Asia, a slice of the Americas. It is, from many angles, a lopsided Games. Singapore, for instance, has sent 66 athletes to Delhi, but will buy tickets for 230-odd to Guangzhou for the Asian Games next month. While we feel more affinity for our neighbourhood, numbers do not necessarily indicate significance. More nations (71) will be in Delhi than were in Doha (45) for the last Asian Games. Yet more athletes went to Doha (roughly 10,000), than there will be in Delhi (roughly 5,500). It sounds bizarre, except Delhi includes just 17 sports while Doha had 39. One might presume that width of competition gives a Games a grander vitality, but calculations cannot be so simplistic. Singapore accumulated 27 medals at the 2006 Doha Asian Games and 18 at the 2006 Melbourne Commonwealth Games, but for athletes success is determined differently. For them, standards determine value, tougher fields decide worth. For instance, Singaporeans will face no gifted Chinese in table tennis in Delhi, nor their marksmen in the shooting range. To say it devalues a medal is cruel; to suggest it puts it in perspective is fairer. October 8-21, 2010 In other sports, the reverse occurs. In athletics, Delhi will have sprinting Jamaicans and loping Kenyans and on the cycling track the world-class English and pursuing Aussies. Even in diluted fields, those medals may have a finer sheen. In the pool, it is more complex: some Commonwealth records are faster, some Asian events are quicker. Lopsided, I told you. We might infer from the Commonwealth pullouts (pre-security and illness fears) that an ambivalence exists about the Games. Yes, but to a point. Usain Bolt’s withdrawal is—appropriately—a matter of timing. As Michael Johnson, the great runner, wrote recently: “To finish the season in August and then go back into training or try to maintain peak competitive form is extremely difficult in preparation for an event that takes place more than one month after your last race.” Bolt is not alone. Australian road cyclists have a world championship on presently in their nation. Brilliant England cyclist Chris Hoy, a knight no less, has preferred the European senior track championships in early November which helps towards Olympic qualification. Top athletes think in four-year Olympic sequences, for them the calendar (a Games’ dates) affects their clock (preparation to be quicker in London 2012). Yet, ironically, it is the Olympics which also makes the Commonwealth Games valid. For smaller nations like the Vanuatu or Nauru, searching for wider competition, it is experience. For those with no Asian Games, or unencumbered by date issues, it provides a training ground, a rehearsal, a point midway between Olympics to evaluate form. Said Martin Richard, director of communications for Swimming Canada: “The Games allows you to live in a Village. In world championships, you stay in a hotel. The Canadian media may not be large at a world championship, but it is here.” October 8-21, 2010 ALERT: Indian paramilitary personnel stand guard at The Commonwealth Games Village in New Delhi. Journalists, men toting guns, cafeterias bulging with various talents is distraction, pressure, nerves. Says Mactier: “You can learn to deal with it.” When the Olympics comes, the brain then does not register surprise. In competition, too, the Games matter. There might be thin fields in some places, yet also sturdy ones. Says Viren Rasquinha, former Indian hockey captain, who played at the 2006 Commonwealth Games: “We took it very seriously. The Asian Games has an Olympic berth, but it’s tougher to win the Commonwealth gold. This time six nations who played in the World Cup are here.” Everywhere, the word Olympic sneaks in. Canada’s Richard says their goal is to “win the swimming competition at the Glasgow Commonwealth Games in 2014. If we can beat the Aussies and Brits we can use that as a stepping stone to being competitive at the Olympics”. This trek begins now. For the spectator abroad, these Games might stir in us patches, we might yawn at lawn bowls but not at the track. We relish multi-sport events, yet find this one slightly awkward. But the athlete might differ, he needs winning to become his habit, whether he competes against a fierce field or his own insecurity. And so until October 14, on podiums, medals will hang on athletes’ neck. Years later, if he has won them all, he might put Olympics first, world championship second, and debate Asian versus Commonwealth on standard. But for that one shining moment on the podium at least, the Commonwealth medal will mean the world to that person. Security unlike any other At venues during the Games Police Ministry of Home Affairs commandos Delhi police commandos SWAT members Sniffer dogs Bomb disposal squads 28,378 2,300 1,000 70 275 15 At the opening ceremony Security personnel 7,500 CCTV cameras 350 No. of checkpoints 90 the highest ever for an Indian stadium. Helicopters were also in the air, armed with commandos and snipers. Text: ABDUL HAFIZ ST GRAPHICS • 19 POLITICS By Amantha Perera Inter Press Service Sri Lanka Shuns West The South Asian island nation finds solace in emerging powers’ arms T PH OTO BY I shara S. KO D IK ARA /AF P ❖ Colombo he European Union’s decision to suspend trade preferences for Sri Lankan exports may have finally come into force, but the island nation is not budging an inch on any of the powerful bloc’s recommendations on its controversial human rights record. On the contrary, Sri Lanka remains adamant about its position against the EU’s proposed measures concerning allegations of human rights abuses committed during the three decades-long civil war in the island nation that ended in May 2009. And President Mahinda Rajapaksa’s administration knows that it 20 • is not fighting a lone battle against the EU, having received support from emerging economies like China and India to withstand pressure from the Western block. On the same day the European body ended the Sri Lanka trade benefits on August 15, Rajapaksa ceremonially released water into the newly built Chinese-funded harbour at Hambantota, a southern coastal city in Sri Lanka. The port was built to the tune of US$360 million, about 85 per cent of which came from China. While the EU and even the United States want Sri Lanka to address the human rights issues hounding it, China has called for more international support for the South Asian country. During last month’s visit to China by Sri Lankan foreign minister Gamini Peiris, his Chinese counterpart, Yang Jiechi, said: “Countries big and small have their own problems, and it is important to remember that solutions have to be found to suit the circumstances of each situation in keeping with the wishes of the country in question without hectoring or pressure from outside.” Last month, Sri Lanka forged an $83 million agreement with India to reconstruct a section of the northern railway left in tatters by the war that pitted government troops against the secessionist Tamil Tigers. October 8-21, 2010 October 8-21, 2010 over $3 billion in 2009. Government spokesperson Keheliya Rambukwella told IPS that the conditions imposed by the EU on GSP+ renewal were an insult to the country. “It is nothing short of that,” the minister declared soon after the EU recommendations were made public earlier this year. Just four days before the GSP+ sus- government of Sri Lanka, including aspects of the naming of commissioners and publication of terms of reference detailed in this report, have raised concerns regarding the LLRC’s mandate and its independence,” it said. The government has assured the public that no jobs would be lost as a result of the EU’s suspension of the PH OTO BY Lakru wa n WANN I ARACH CH I /AFP INDEPENDENCE FROM WEST: Sri Lanka finds itself wrestling with the West because of its human rights records. The two states had previously signed a similar agreement to rehabilitate another section of the same track worth over $140 million. The commitments are part of a larger package worth $800 million that India has pledged on concessionary terms to help rebuild the war-ravaged northern side of Sri Lanka. “India remains committed to continuing its assistance to Sri Lanka as it undertakes the important and challenging task of reconstructing the northern province,” the Indian Mission in Sri Lanka said when it announced the new funding. India is also helping reconstruct houses destroyed in the north during the armed conflict. According to the UN, India has pledged to build 50,000 out of an estimated 160,000 new houses. Indian companies are also exploring prospects for expanding their presence in Sri Lanka. The Mahindra group, worth over $7 billion, announced last month in Colombo that it was introducing new vehicle models into the Sri Lankan market while looking to set up an assembly plant in the country. “Sri Lanka has been able to stave off pressure brought on by the EU and the Western block because other countries like India and China have supported it, especially in the UN,” analyst Jehan Perera told IPS. The EU has accused Sri Lanka of violating international human rights conventions that made the continuation of the trade concessions problematic. It has recommended certain measures to the Sri Lankan government to facilitate the reinstatement of the concessions under the Generalised System of Preference Plus (GSP+), a tariff reduction regime unilaterally granted by the EU. In 2008, GSP+ was worth around $100 million, based on EU data. Expected to be hardest hit by the removal of the concession will be the 270,000-strong apparel sector, the country’s biggest foreign exchange earner. Garment exports raked in EXPORT CUTS: The EU’s decision to suspend trade preferences for Sri Lankan exports will have tremendous effects on ordinary labourers but the government has assuaged fears of job losses. pension came into effect, the US released a critical report on actions taken by the Sri Lankan government on possible violations of human rights during the final phase of the bloody civil conflict. “The principal measures the government of Sri Lanka has taken to investigate incidents of alleged violations of international law have been the appointment of two commissions, the ‘Group of Eminent Persons’ and the ‘Commission on Lessons Learnt and Reconciliation’ (LLRC),” the US State Department noted. “The State Department concludes that the Group of Eminent Persons was ineffective. The LLRC is less than halfway through its six-month term (it was established May 14, 2010). Initial actions taken by the GSP+ concessions. In fact, said Rambukwella, the government expected to increase foreign reserves to $7.5 billion by the end of this month. A strong currency and reserves on top of increased earnings from other sectors like tourism and foreign remittances will cushion any fallout from the GSP + loss, he added. Yet such assurances have not assuaged the fears of the workers in the apparel sector, said Achila Mapalagama, who heads Stand-up, a workers’ rights campaign in the Katunayake Free Trade Zone just north of the capital Colombo. “No one has a clear idea what will happen now that the concessions are gone. We will see within the next six months. For now there is a lot of fear,” she said. • 21 POLITICS By Irwin Loy Inter Press Service PH OTOS BY AFP severely inadequate in a country where few rural residents have access to the Internet. “It’s not meaningful to victims,” said Sok Leang, the interim director and victims outreach manager for the NGO Centre for Justice and Reconciliation. “The names of the victims will be listed in the final verdict and then they will be digitised and posted on websites so everyone can see. This is just ridiculous in light of the technologies that victims living in remote areas have access to.” INDICTED: (L-R) This combo photos of former Khmer Rouge leaders, ‘Brother No. 1’ Nuon Chea, former foreign minister Ieng Sary, his wife and ex-social affairs minister Ieng Thirith and former head of state Khieu Samphan. What’s Next For Khmer Rouge Trial Justice goes beyond indictment of Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge leaders A ❖ Phnom Penh 22 • United Nations-backed tribunal. “I think the case is going to be the most important trial in Cambodian history. It could allow Cambodians to turn to the next page and move on,” said Youk Chhang, director of the Documentation Centre of Cambodia, whose researchers have compiled a vault of evidence archiving the regime’s abuses. Officials with the Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia (ECCC), the tribunal’s official name, say they hope a trial will begin during the first half of 2011. However, some observers say the court will not truly be effective unless it can properly address the crucial issue of how reparations will be given to victims of the regime. In July, the court convicted former Khmer Rouge prison chief Kaing Khek Eav. Duch, as he is better known, was convicted of overseeing the murders of an estimated 14,000 people judged to have been enemies of the regime. But advocates for victims and their surviving families said the court did not go far enough to address the hugely symbolic issue of reparations. Part of the court’s mandate is to give a voice to victims. And so it allowed qualified victims and their families to participate directly in the proceedings as civil parties—and at levels that were unprecedented in international justice. The tribunal is also able to award “collective and moral reparations” to approved victims. Demands from civil parties in the Duch case included free medical care, the creation of staffed education facilities and a curriculum about human rights abuses and genocide, as well as a trust fund that could provide vocational training and small-business loans. But in the end, the court consented only to having the names of approved civil parties and victims listed in the final written judgment and for transcripts of Duch’s apologies and admissions of responsibility to be posted to the court website. This latter gesture was derided by some as being October 8-21, 2010 to be proud of the trial,” he said. “If the reparations after this second case are similar to the first case, then most victims will not be satisfied. If the reparations are still the same, I think it will not be successful.” But the tribunal has taken measures that could see the matter handled differently in the second case. A day after the indictments were publicised, the court announced it had approved new rules that will expand its options for reparation during the second case. The court will now be allowed to award reparations that may be funded by donor contributions. This would mean that potential reparations that would have been excluded under the old rules because the accused lacked the money to pay for them, could now be covered by donors. The rule changes do not affect the reparations rulings for the Duch trial. “I think we are learning throughout the process what is working and what is not working,” said Lars Olsen, a court spokesman. “Remember, this is the first time in international criminal justice that we have vicIF THEY COULD TALK: Khmer Rouge’s victims’ remains at the Tuol Sleng genocide museum in Phnom Penh. tim participation on this scale.” But in their decision, trial chamber said of some of the harsh reactions But while reparations have a highly judges noted that they were “con- to the decision on reparations. symbolic meaning for victims, Olsen strained” by the rules of the court. It In the second case involving the said the focus must remain on the was not within the tribunal’s scope, four senior Khmer Rouge leaders, trial’s criminal proceedings. “By the they said, to award reparations the then, the tribunal must find more end of the day I believe the most imcourt had no jurisdiction to enforce— creative and symbolic solutions to the portant factor for any victim is to see thus ruling out civil party demands issue of reparations, should the ac- that justice is being served,” he said. to create school curriculums or na- cused be found guilty, Sok said. “This can mainly be done through tional memorials. “People have to have something to criminal proceedings, holding perpeAnd while the court’s legal frame- take away and be proud of this court; trators responsible for crimes.” October 8-21, 2010 • 23 P HOTO BY Christophe ARC HAM BAULT/AF P war crimes tribunal in Cambodia may have reached a major milestone last month by indicting four former leaders of the Khmer Rouge. But much more needs to be done to ensure that the long-awaited trial is meaningful to the regime’s victims, analysts say. On September 16, the tribunal announced the indictment of four Khmer Rouge leaders: Nuon Chea, the party’s chief ideologue; Ieng Sary, the foreign minister; Ieng Thirith, the social affairs minister; and Khieu Samphan, the party’s head of state. They face charges including crimes against humanity, murder and genocide and are accused of being among the architects of a regime that caused the deaths of up to 2.2 million people during the Khmer Rouge rule from 1975 to 1979. More than three decades after the regime collapsed, the four ageing suspects are also the only senior Khmer Rouge leaders to be charged by the work stipulated that the accused was to be solely responsible for reparations, there were no measures allowing the ECCC to enforce its rulings if Duch was unwilling or unable to comply. The court was also unable to draw funding for reparations from third parties like donor countries or government. S o k s a i d th e fi r s t c a s e w a s a “test”—one that he said produced very mixed results. “I think it was a lesson for the victims as well as a lesson for the panel of judges,” he BUSINESS Bangkok Bounces Back Thailand’s capital is showing signs of resurgence after the riots with the re-opening of its biggest mall and new businesses around the city T ❖ Bangkok en o’clock on a Sunday is still early for city folks but for a group of five friends from Hong Kong, it is the best time to head to the Erawan Shrine at the intersection of Rajphrasong, to worship the fourfaced Brahma. Erawan Shrine is famous among tourists especially from Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia who believe in its immense power to grant wishes. Grace, 25, together with her friends, are no exception. This is not the first time that Grace has been to Thailand. “It’s always nice to shop here, the clothes are cheaper compared to Hong Kong, and lots of things to see,” Grace said. She and her friends are not concerned about Bangkok’s political situation, though they have seen the red shirt protests on TV ending in a violent dispersal on May 19. “Everything appears back to normal,” Grace said, looking down at the Rajphrasong intersection—site of the red shirt protests—from the MRT station. Indeed, everything appears to be returning to normal in Bangkok and travel agents are expecting increased tourist arrivals in the coming peak season from November to March. 24 • Photos by The Natio n (Thai land) By Yasmin Lee Arpon Asia News Network Suchat Sritama, Khetsirin Pholdhampalit and Kwanchai Rungfapaisarn The Nation (Thailand) REBIRTH: Officials of CentralWorld wave as they make their way down the escalator of the newly renovated mall. The Association of Thai Travel Agents (ATTA) said recently that international arrivals are expected to soar by 20-30 per cent toward the last quarter of the year. “If there is no further political turmoil, operators hope this year’s high season will be a good one for tourism,” ATTA president Surapol Sritrakul said. As of September, advance bookings from overseas were up 5-10 per cen t. To ur is ts from China and other Asian countries have reserved packages for Thailand, and nearly all of them plan to visit Phuket, Samui and other islands in the south as well as Bangkok, Surapol said. Across from Erawan, CentralWorld has re-opened portions of the mall on September 28. This particular Sunday, there is a long queue in front of the mall’s entrance facing Ratchadamri Road. It turned out to be fans of Korean boy group JYJ (three members of the former TVXQ) that will have a concert in Bangkok on October 15. The crowd, mostly girls in their teens and early 20s, were there to buy tickets ranging from 800 baht-4,500 baht (US$26-$147). The crowd has attracted curious onlookers as local shoppers and tourists alike started to trickle inside the mall. BIG HIT: Customers wait for their turn at Bangkok’s first Krispy Kreme outlet in Siam Paragon. Only 80 per cent of the mall has been re-opened, while the remainder will be operational in December. The Zen department store, which was damaged by fire by red shirt protesters, will unveil in August next year. A receptionist at the concierge counter on the second floor said most of the tourists visiting the mall were from Asia. The sales clerk at the newly opened XXI Forever store said many shoppers come from Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong. “It’s been good,” she said, referring to the sales since the store opened on September 28. XXI Forever, is the flagship store of American fashion line Forever 21. It was among the new and old shops that joined the re-opening of CentralWorld last month. The mall’s renovation and reconstruction cost 2.8 billion baht ($90.5 million). Many areas of the mall are still under construction, particularly those near Zen, but the smell of smoke and traces of what happened in May are gone. Kobchai Chirativat, president and CEO of the mall’s operator and developer Central Pattana Plc., said they have installed a system that would contain a riot similar to May 19, should it happen again. “We have enOctober 8-21, 2010 hanced security measures. It’s not the government’s duty alone to preserve a peaceful situation but it’s also up to the operators.” CentralWorld’s new design features a mushroom fountain, a giant sunflower and soon, a 100 millionbaht ($3.23 million) open-air skating rink that will open in November. The mall is also introducing an ‘allladies parking area’ that can accommodate up to 200 vehicles. Kobchai is confident that CentralWorld’s regular customers and tourists would flock back to the mall, noting that tourist arrivals in Thailand “have gone back to normal”. Almost upstaging CentralWorld’s reopening was the opening of US doughnut chain Krispy Kreme at nearby Siam Paragon on the same day. Thousands of people lined up in front of Krispy Kreme’s first Thai outlet and, according to local franchisee Ausanee Mahagitsiri, about 3,000 boxes containing one dozen doughnuts sold out in no time at all. “The overwhelming response from local customers was beyond expectations,” said Ausanee. “Similar phenomena have occurred at the opening of almost every Krispy Kreme outlet.” US gourmet café Dean & Deluca also opened here its first outlet in Southeast Asia in August. October 8-21, 2010 “Bangkok was our first choice because of the rich consumption culture of the Thai market,” said general manager John Barton. Away from the city’s heartland, American-based premium ice cream Cold Stone Creamery opened its second outlet at Central Bang Na. The first Cold Stone Creamery at CentralWorld had only been open a few weeks when the mall was set on fire. Although Bangkok is already home to many major ice cream brands, Wachiraporn Wanitchai of Thailand’s operator Central Restaurants Group (CRG) believes there is still room for something different—in this case, premium ice cream served with a twist. Meanwhile, CentralWorld’s rebirth is seen as a boost to the Rajphrasong shopping area whose retailers suffered low sales at the height of the red shirt protests. Sucheep Tamacheepjareon, vice president for light food of CRG, said after the mall’s long closure, its reopening should result in a stronger performance by the company, and other retailers in the area, in the final quarter. CRG operates about 500 branded restaurants throughout the country. “As a group, we don’t feel any significant impact on our overall perfor- mance from the closure of CentralWorld. Once the downtown area of Bangkok was hit by this problem (political unrest), consumers preferred shopping and dining out at suburban malls and restaurants instead (including those CRG operates),” Sucheep said. Aside from the trains being crowded with tourists again, the long queues at the immigration counters of the Suvarnabhumi international airport can be an indication that Thailand’s tourism sector is bouncing back. Despite this, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is choosing to be cautious, and has downgraded its annual tourism growth forecast to less than 8 per cent in a five-year plan, in light of the domestic political situation and global factors. “Although the number of visitors and domestic movements are hoped to increase next year and afterwards, the growth rate of both segments will be lower than the initial projection of 8 per cent,” TAT governor Suraphon Svetsreni said recently. The country’s tourism industry has been facing many problems including internal political unrest, global economic fluctuations, natural disasters and new diseases that have caused growth to stall over the past few years and will continue to do so in the foreseeable future. “All these factors are expected to drag down tourism over the years ahead, so that will reflect on the tourism industry,” Suraphon said. TAT targets 15.5 million foreign tourists and 91 million domestic trips next year, which will be less than 8 per cent above the estimate for this year of 14.5 million international and 90 million domestic travellers. However, the frequent bomb blasts in Bangkok have not yet caused any worries for tourists planning to come to Thailand, Suraphon noted. And neither did it bother Grace and her other friends from Hong Kong as they joined the morning crowd at Erawan that Sunday. • 25 CHANGING ASIA By Rupak D. Sharma Asia News Network The Big Switch This is the same with other faiths like Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism, whose followers are growing rapidly every day. One of the reasons behind the rise in the number of religious followers is spiritual void, which people of this modern and materialistic country are becoming tired of. Many people in China may have enough money, sleek cars and beautiful apartments, but these gains are not enough to keep them happy. So they are turning to religion in hope it would offer a set of values that are larger than materialism and short-term China is gradually becoming more generous in granting religious freedom to its people organised in 2006 and the International Forum on the Daodejing it held in 2007. The latest in the series is the government-sponsored birth anniversary celebration of China’s most famous philosopher, Confucius. Born in 551BC, his teachings focus on social relations, proper conduct, and social harmony, which are crucial to turn the current materialist Chinese into socially committed people with a stronger sense of community. To spread his message, the government, last year, also sanc- turned religious. The Chinese Communist Party still believes there is no God in the world. But what has changed is that it has also started believing it should respect and protect religious belief and not infringe interests of religious followers. That’s why it is building China’s largest state-sanctioned church, which can accommodate 5,000 worshippers, in Nanjing. It is providing land and 20 per cent of the construction costs as per its strategy of encouraging the development of religion in the country. CHANGING PERCEPTION: Performers dressed in ancient costumes prepare to pay homage to Confucius on his birthday at the Confucius Temple in Beijing on September 28. O Photos by A FP v Bangkok n September 28, Beijing celebrated the birth anniversary of ancient philosopher Confucius at his 14th century temple in Guozijian quarter. This was the first time the country’s atheist government had allowed Beijing to hold such an event since the founding of communist China. Security was tight around the ancient temple and the ceremony was closed to the public. But the irony is that journalists were not barred from attending it, which showed the Chinese government’s eagerness to exhibit the religious freedom it is trying to bestow upon its people. People in China were free to practice a number of religions prior to the Cultural Revolution, a mass movement led by Mao Zedong. There were followers of various faiths like Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity and a number of folk religions—under which mythical figures and ethnic 26 • deities were worshipped. But after the communist government came to power in 1949 religious beliefs were viewed as superstitious in nature and means to expand Western colonial rule. That was when the places of worship were destroyed and all forms of religious expressions were banned. This turned China into a religion-less country. Chinese people were finally allowed to practice religion only after the fall of Mao in 1977. Today, China’s constitution guarantees ‘freedom of religion’. The state has also officially recognised five religions: Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Catholicism and Protestantism. Yet the highhandedness of the authorities continues. For instance, followers of Tibetan Buddhism are still not allowed to carry pictures of their spiritual leader the Dalai Lama, who is considered a ‘living god’ by many Tibetans but a ‘separatist’ by the Chinese authorities. Christians are also not allowed to practice their religion freely. They still have to visit churches designated by the government and the followers of the religion have to register their names with the local police. The unregistered worshippers, who usually visit unsanctioned underground churches, can get beaten mercilessly if caught by the police. Despite these threats and hurdles, many agree there has been dramatic change over the years in the country’s religious sector. Pastors of the churches say they are happy the Christian missionaries are at least not forced out of the country like in the days when the country was under the grip of Mao Zedong. They may have been shackled and can only preach religion by remaining inside the boundaries created by the government, but the growth in the number of Christian followers, estimated to have swollen to 40 million-100 million, gives them a reason to heave a sigh of relief. Some experts believe the number of Christians will grow to 400 million in the next three decades, making China one of the largest countries with Christian population. October 8-21, 2010 CHINESE CHRISTIANS: Chinese worshippers attend a Holy Communion during Christmas Mass at a Catholic church in Beijing. thinking. Lately, the government is also coming to the aid of these people by indirectly encouraging them to become religious. Earlier this year, the Chinese government, for instance, oversaw a massive function to mark the birth anniversary of Chinese folk god, Mazu, a sea deity believed to protect fishermen and sailors. The government, to the surprise of many, said such events should be celebrated as they are cultural heritages of the country. Other examples of how the communist government is promoting religious activities in the country are the World Buddhist Forum it October 8-21, 2010 FOLK RELIGION: A man places joss sticks in a giant urn at Mazu Temple on Meizhou island off China’s coastal province Fujian. tioned an expensive movie on his life to coincide with the 60th anniversary of the People’s Republic of China. It was said the government at that time even directed some theatres to give priority to this movie after James Cameron’s Avatar—which was released during the same period—started diverting people’s attention. These examples show drastic changes in the attitude of China’s communist government, which until three decades ago was demolishing temples and penalising religious followers. But this doesn’t mean China’s atheis t government has The Chinese government is also reviving the teachings of Confucius as a means to push China’s soft power abroad. Last month, during the birth anniversary of Confucius, China also invited scholars from around the world to share views on the philosophies of Confucius. One of the reasons behind organising the event was to find ways to promote aspects of Confucianism—which remained a state religion under the Han dynasty from 206BC to 220AD—as a “core value” of modern China. It also wants to brand this image overseas “to boost China’s lagging efforts at spreading its soft power”. • 27 LIFESTYLE SINGAPORE By Jocelyn Lee and Huang Huifen The Straits Times Perfect 10.10.10 Wedding Oct 10, 2010 is a special date as wedding bells ring for more than 700 couples in Singapore, even though it costs more to say I do on that day I Photos by The Straits Times ❖ Singapore t is going to be a perfect 10 wedding for hundreds of couples in Singapore on Oct 10, 2010. Statistics from the Registry Of Marriages show that 7 74 couples have signed up already on that 10/10/10 date, compared to 70 on a normal day. In recent years, two dates rang wedding bel ls bec ause of their unique numbers: 357 couples got married on Sept 9, 2009, while 443 tied the knot on Aug 8, 2008. However, on the calendar of desirable dates, the biggie was Feb 14, 1995. A record-breaking 1,082 couples got hitched that day, as it was Valentine’s 28 • GETTING HITCHED SOON: Jay Lim, 30, doctor, and Elizabeth Fock, 26, cardiac technologist. ALL SMILES: Kamal Yacob, 37, bass player of local band Stoned Revivals, and June Khoo, 37, account manager. THE COUPLE: Chai Yee Wei, 34, Singapore film-maker, and Diane Chan, 37, marketing manager. Day and it coincided with the 15th day of the Lunar New Year. October 10 is not just a Big Day for couples, but it is also a moneyspinner for businesses associated with weddings. Hotels are charging 5 to 20 per cent more for bookings made on this date. Hotels, photographers, florists, stylists and wedding solemnisers are experiencing a surge in demand for that red-hot date. Soon-to-be-newlyweds who have put a circle around October 10 say it is a beautiful date as it has a nice ‘ring’ to it. Product executive Kamal Yacob, who is the founding member and bass player of home-grown indie band Stoned Revivals, is among those saying “I do” that day. The 37-year-old says: “We chose this date because of the number 10.10.10. It is unique and easy to remember. It also falls on a Sunday, which is perfect for us.” He and wife-to-be June Khoo, also 3 7, are celebrating their wedding on a yacht at Marina at Keppel Bay, so no wonder they want everything to be ship-shape. Singapore film-maker Chai Yee Wei, 34, who also chose the same date, agrees: “The Chinese believe that the number 10 represents completion, perfection and beauty when used in the Chinese idiom, ‘shi quan shi mei’. I love that idiom and I want my marriage to be perfect.” The idiom means perfect and flawless. The same goes for St James Holdings marketing executive Gordon Foo, 28, and his 27-year-old fiancee Doreen Chua. Foo, whose father is St. James’ chief executive officer Dennis Foo, says: “It is a nice date. Plus we had the assurance from the feng shui master that it is a good date to get married. Couples who get married on this date are said to conceive within the next three years.” With a surge in weddings on October 10, hotels are also looking forward to that date. The 15 hotels The Straits Times spoke to are having a busy time. Some have October 8-21, 2010 October 8-21, 2010 turned away as many as 50 to 100 couples who want to book a venue for their wedding reception that day. Many of the hotels are imposing a 5 to 20 per cent surcharge on that date. Pan Pacific Singapore Hotel is hosting three weddings that day, with the earliest booking made more than a year ago. It had to reject more than 100 couples who wanted to hold their reception there then. T he couples who managed to book will pay 20 per cent more, with each table costing more than S$1,388 (US$1,049). Over at Goodwood Park Hotel, all of its five wedding venues have been booked for October 10 for both lunch and dinner, with a S$50 (US$3 7) surcharge for a table. It had to turn away 50 couples. Manda rin Orcha rd is hosting three weddings that day, with a 5 per cent surcharge. Referring to the October 10 date, general manager John Sartain says: “ Ten is an even, round number which is auspicious to the Chinese as it symbolises a pair and union. There’s also a Chinese idiom associated to 10 which loosely transl a t e s t o p e r f e c t i o n . M o r e o v e r, 10/10/10 is indeed an auspicious date in the Chinese almanac.” Master Hui Jie, director of Hui Master International Geomancy, says the date is a day of harmony, which means couples will have a harmonious marriage. Though such obsession with numbers is more prevalent among the Chinese, he adds that the 10.10.10 date is popular with other races as well. Hui Jie, who has picked the date for about 20 couples, says: “I have an Indian couple who are getting married on that day too.” Another geomancer, Adelina Pang of Adelina Pang Fengshui Consultanc y, says that this number is popular among the non-Chinese because of its novelty and it is an easy date to remember. Businesses are happy too. Kelvin Koh, founder of Lightedpixels Pho- tography, postponed his sabbatical plans next month after getting 20 inquiries for wedding-photo packages. Like all wedding photographers, he can take on only one client as a wedding shoot takes up the whole day. For that day, his terms are that couples must sign up for the S$5,000 (US$3,782) full-day package instead of the usual option between that and a S$4,000 (US$3,025) image-only package. Chris Woon of moretopurple Photography turned away nine couples for that day too, but he will not be charging more for his services. He says: “Couples pay for the quality of the work. It is not as if I will shoot particularly well on that day.” Business at florists is blooming, too. Florist Michelle Poh, business development manager of The Red Petals Florist, has hired five more staff and rented an extra vehicle to cope with the double workload that day. She says: “I will be shuttling among 10 locations and surviving on just a bun the whole day. But I love the adrenaline rush.” And Sing See Soon Floral and Landscape is increasing its manpower from 40 to 70 that day to cope with an expected 40 weddings. Local Justice of Peace Tan Poi Eng is solemnising four weddings that day and had to turn away three other couples. The 63-year-old, who has been a wedding solemniser for the past 11 years, says: “I restricted it to four weddings on October 10 as I did not want to tire myself out. On normal weekends, I may get one wedding or none at all.” But all the hype does not guarantee a perfect 10 marriage, says consultant Gerard Lee, 30, who has chosen to hold his wedding on October 9 instead. He says: “All the hotels will be so busy and the quality may be compromised. It may also be a chance for organisers to increase prices. “A wedding is a once-in-a-lifetime event and I have an important crowd to please. Anyway, the number 9 symbolises everlasting in Chinese, so it’s good too.” • 29 LIFESTYLE CHINA By Sim Chi Yin The Straits Times I llu stration by Li Min/Chi na Dai ly More and more young Chinese professionals feel burned out, empty and numb, and have no goals in life, no interest in anything A ❖ Beijing Photo by S IM C HI Y IN/ The Straits Times 30 • lmost as soon as he wakes up at 8am each d ay, p ro p e r t y a g e n t Kevin Tu is already tired. He drags himself to work, and puts in nine hours in front of the computer and with clients. Then he goes home to his one-bedroom apartment in the south side of Beijing to stare at TV shows alone. A go-getting executive in a multinational company just a few years ago, Tu, 31, now lives just “one day at a time”, as he puts it. That might be the motto for a growing group of fatigued young, white-collar Chinese known as ‘eraser’ or ‘plasticine’ men (xiang pi ren). Brow-beaten out of shape by life, they show little if any response as they are kneaded this way and that, October 8-21, 2010 Photo By G ao Erqia ng/Chi na Dai ly Rise Of The ‘Plasticine’ Generation reported a local news magazine which ty are not difficult to find. While he is She does not quite see herself as a has popularised the term now spread- not depressed and surrounds himself ‘plasticine’ person, however. ing in Chinese cyberspace. with friends, Tu said he feels much “I feel stuck in life. And I feel Broadly defined, they are mostly like a ‘plasticine man’. confused, trapped. But I can’t find white-collar workers who are some“Everything just feels very bland,” the motivation to do something what numb to life, have no dreams, he said. “I have no ambition, no real about it,” she said. interests or ideals, and do not feel much goal in life and I just don’t feel inter“I want to change my life, but I pain—or joy—reported the Guangzhou- ested in anything anymore, even in don’t know the way out.” based New Weekly magazine. hobbies I used to have.” If there is a growing group of “plasThere are no known ticine men” among Chiacademic studies on na’s white-collar class, it this phenomenon, but is hardly surprising, said the magazine c ited a outspoken sociology prosurvey carried out last fessor Zhou Xiaozheng year by The Beijing News of Renmin University in n e w s p a p e r a n d Sin a Beijing. We b p o r t a l o f 1 , 7 0 0 “We are all slaves these people across China. days. Buy a house and It showed that 70 per you’re a ‘house slave’ cent of them displayed (fang nu). Buy a car and signs of job burnout. you’re a ‘car slave’ (che Almost 60 per cent nu). Bear a child and of the companies polled you’re a ‘child slave’ (hai also said that the incinu),” he said. dence of burnout among The official People’s Daitheir employees had ly recently reported that increased. the burgeoning ranks beSTRESS RELIEVER: Young executives under pressure are finding new These ‘plasticine men’ ways to let off steam—like this pillow-bashing party for white-collar workers. ing labelled ‘middle class’ can be found among docin China are battling daitors, bank employees, ly worries about paying teachers, journalists, traffic policemen, The native of Wuhan city in central for a house, car and credit card bills. civil servants, actors and taxi drivers, China lives in Beijing alone. “Young Chinese feel suppressed by the magazine reported. Typically, they Most Chinese men his age would pressure on many fronts,” said Zhou. work alone and for more than 50 be married and about to start a family, “Once they graduate, they have to hours a week. They feel as if they have but Tu said: “Now that I feel stuck in fight to find a job, make enough monexpended all their energy and all they my career, I am in no mood to look ey to buy a home amid soaring propget in return is a sense of emptiness. for a mate.” erty prices, and once they do that The term comes from a 1986 book, Advertising executive Wang Xin, 29, they are in debt for a long time.” Xiang Pi Ren (Plasticine Man), by still- on the other hand, is equally jaded “My generation had more idepopular novelist Wang Shuo, that was about her job but puts her energy into a l s , m o re ro o m t o f u l f i l t h o s e later made into a film entitled Out Of finding a husband—by dating assem- ide als,” he added. Breath (Da chuan qi)”. bly-line style. The root source of these woes is It tells the story of a plucky young She spends hours every night “me- the great inequality in Chinese society man who arrives in the southern eco- chanically” checking two match-mak- today, he said, noting that powerful nomic powerhouse of Guangzhou ing websites “like a stockbroker elite interest groups keep a stranglewith lofty dreams. Cheated many checking stock prices”, she said. hold on wealth. times over in business, he ends up in She exchanges e-mail or mes“In China, if you’re not born into jail where he is repeatedly beaten up sages on social networking sites the elite, then you’re just unlucky for by fellow prisoners. with the men she might have some life,” Zhou said. He is left indifferent and dehu- luck with. Wang has dated—and For his part, Tu is concerned less manised, feeling nothing when he broken up with—three men in the with money than about finding his discovers his lover has long been past eight months. zest for life again. stringing him along. “I feel very trapped in my boring “Maybe this numbness is just a That fictional depiction might be a job of six years, but I keep thinking I phase,” he said, thinking aloud. tad dramatised, but soulless white- have to first find someone to marry “Or maybe life will just be this collar Chinese workers who feel en- and then move on in my career, so I bland for me and I’ll just have to trapped in this pressure-cooker socie- keep trying,” she said. accept that this is it.” October 8-21, 2010 • 31 LIFESTYLE CHINA By Mei Jia China Daily I ❖ Beijing Photo by H u Y u/For C hina Daily China’s Pig Babies Public kindergartens in China are struggling to cope with influx of thousands of 3-year-olds born in the boom year of 2007—the auspicious Year of the Golden Pig 32 • n June, Gao Yuexia, 96, her son and grandson, took turns to line up for nine days and nights to enrol Gao’s 2-year-old great-granddaughter in a public kindergarten in northeastern Beijing’s Changping district. Some 200 parents vied to get their kids into the kindergarten whose modest monthly charges of 400 yuan (US$59) made it a popular choice with many young couples. “While waiting for days is no 100 per cent guarantee of a spot, not joining the queues could mean ver y little chance of finding a proper kindergarten for our child,” says a father surnamed Chen. Getting a place in a kindergarten that is affordable and conveniently located is posing a major headache for parents with children born in and after 2007. Two popular sayings doing the rounds are that, “entering kindergartens is harder than being recruited as a public servant” and, “attending kindergartens is costlier than going to university”. The existing capacity in public kindergartens is unable to cope with the sudden increase in births in 2007, the year of the golden pig, considered auspicious for having babies by the Chinese. The baby-boomers have now entered the kindergarten-going age of 3 this summer. Xinhua News Agency reports that only 73,000 out of Shenzhen’s 135,000 kids born in 2007 will find a kindergarten spot. A Southern Daily report says Beijing saw 415,750 births between 2007 and 2009, but has only 248,000 spots in the registered kindergartens. Song Lihong, 34, a full-time mother of a 3-year-old in Beijing, began her hunt for a kindergarten last April. The public ones, known for their lower fees and more reliable quality, were Song’s October 8-21, 2010 preferred choice. She went to almost all of those near her home, and found they charged 600-900 yuan ($89-$134) per month, but would accept only children who meet the strict requirements of hukou (registered household certification). “Parents with no Beijing hukou, like us, have to pay a so-called voluntary amount of at least 50,000 yuan ($7,300) over three years, which is beyond us,” she says. “But even so, we tried to find some way to give this extra money.” When she couldn’t, she finally turned to a private kindergarten and got her kid in after waiting for three months. “It’s more expensive, but we have no choice,” she says. Song says her family is under intense financial pressure. “Our threshold for kindergarten RELIEVED: Gao Yuexia, 96, smiles as her 2-year-old great-granddaughter was enrolled in the kindergarten after she (with other relatives) lined up for nine days. October 8-21, 2010 TIRING: This photo provided by China Photo Press shows parents and grandparents lining up for days and nights with stools and umbrellas to get their kids into the public kindergarten in Changping district, Beijing. fees was 1,000 yuan ($149), but now I pay 1,700 yuan ($253). And then there is the rent to take care of,” she says. Like Song, Liu Jingjia, 32, a vocational school teacher in Kunming, Yunnan province, is also considering beginning the search for a kindergarten although her daughter is not yet 2. “The public kindergartens are cheaper but hard to get in; the private ones are easier but far more expensive,” Liu says. She says she hopes starting her search early will bring her better luck than Song. Zhang Yan, a pre-primary education expert with Beijing Normal University told The Beijing News: “The real problem is not getting into a kindergarten, but into an affordable and reputable one.” Feng Xiaoxia, with China National Society of Early Childhood Education, told Xinhua recently that “the imbalance in public and private kindergartens, and limited governmental input in pre-primary education, are the reasons” for the difficulties facing parents. In growing recognition of the problem, the National Education Conference held this July made “advancing the equality in education” a major emphasis. The final draft of the National Plan for Long-Term Educational Reform and Development (2010-2020) released recently also pays particular attention to the “kindergarten puzzle”. It hints at increasing official input to promote the development of both public and private kindergartens. Shanghai is already taking the lead by extending the number of kindergartens to keep pace with the construction of new residential buildings. Beijing is also planning to build 118 new kindergartens and renovate 300 old ones in the coming years. “If we’re lucky enough, I’d like to get my daughter registered by September next year,” says Liu, expressing a hope that is on the minds of many young parents. • 33 CULTURE THAILAND By Kee Hua Chee The Star GOD OF CREATION: The four-faced Brahma at Erawan Shrine in Bangkok is world-famous for granting wishes. GOD OF WEALTH: The statue of Lakshmi, the goddess of luck, wealth and fertility. GOD OF MERCY: ELEPHANT-HEADED GOD: Lord Narayana standing The shrine of Lord Ganesha. on his vehicle Garuda. Hindu Gods Of Bangkok Everyone knows the famous Erawan Shrine in Bangkok dedicated to Lord Brahma, but did you know there are five other Hindu shrines within a stone’s throw of each other? B PH OTO S F RO M TH E STA R ❖ Bangkok angkok is synonymous with Buddhism, but the savvy traveller, the superstitious and the devout know that the city also has five other Hindu shrines the size of Thailand’s ubiquitous spirit houses. Together, these six shrines honour the Hindu deities of Brahma, Indra, Narayana, Lakshmi, Trimurti and Ganesha. To visit and pray at all six is easy because they are all within walking distance of one another. All six life-sized statues are located on relatively small spaces, and worshippers pray in the open air. It’s customary to start at the famous Erawan Shrine, also called Brahman Shrine or Phra Phrom by the Thais. You should have no problems locating it since every taxi driver in Bangkok knows this most revered and famous of shrines in Ratchaprasong, the city’s pre-eminent shopping and entertainment district. Millions, including Malaysians, visit 34 • annually, to petition the four-faced Brahma to grant them their wishes. At anytime, you are likely to find devotees beseeching Brahma to answer their prayers as well as those who return to offer thanksgiving for wishes granted. Erawan Shrine sits on a small, triangular patch of land beside the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. How the shrine came to be can be traced back to the ‘50s. During the construction of the hotel in 1958, so many workers fell ill or suffered from accidents that soothsayers were summoned to intervene. The spiritual advisors recommended that a shrine be built in honour of Brahma, the Hindu god of creation. From the beginning, it is said that Brahma answered all the prayers of his faithful worshippers, with many returning to thank him by commissioning a performance by classical dancers or donating wooden elephants to honour the sacred elephant of Hindu mythology, Erawan. Thais are said to be very protective of the deity, as became graphically evident in the early hours of March 21, 2006 when a mentally-ill man smashed the statue of Brahma and was killed by passers-by for the outrage. A replica was made, guided by Buddhist monks and Brahmin priests, and installed on May 21, 2006. After Erawan, the next shrine to visit is Indra’s in front of Amarin Mall. This beautiful jade green Indra carries a thunderbolt, discus, bow and triple-pronged lance. Indra is Lord of Heaven and God of War, Storms and Rain. He is the god who looks after mankind. A symbol of power and courage, Indra leads the way in the timeless battle between good and evil and has more than 250 hymns dedicated to him in the Rigveda, more than any other god. Vishnu, in comparison, has only 93 hymns. But not being part of the Holy Trinity, Indra is seen to exhibit more human qualities. He slayed Vritra to release life-giving waters back to mankind and also rescued the sacred cows of the gods from the asura or demons. October 8-21, 2010 Of fering s to Indra are usual ly yel low marigolds and smal l elephant fig urines. Once you’ve completed the ritual at Indra’s shrine, cross the road to worship Narayana, whose shrine is located in front of Intercontinental and Holiday Inn hotels. Narayana stands with one leg on the shoulder of his vehicle Garuda. In each of his four hands, he holds the lotus bud which symbolises purity, the discus which denotes the destruction of ego, the mace which stands for divine power and the conch shell which shows his power over the universe. A god of mercy, Narayana is also a manifestation of Vishnu, the preserver of life who also maintains the balance of the universe. The Narayana statue was erected in 1997, following a bad period marked by a spate of bankruptcies, to help ailing businesses. So if your business is in the doldrums, Narayana should be able to make your cash registers ring merrily again. Your next destination then is Gaysorn, the upscale mall next door. Head to the fourth floor and ask to see the statue of beautiful Lakshmi, Goddess of Luck, Wealth and Fertility. You will find yourself escorted to the outdoor terrace where Lakshmi stands resplendently above a golden lotus under a nine-layer umbrella. Lakshmi’s statue was erected in 1996 by the owners of Gaysorn Plaza when it was being built, and they October 8-21, 2010 GOD OF LOVE: The Trimurti shrine. have been laughing all the way to the bank ever since. As Lakshmi is the consort of Narayana, who you have just worshipped, your petitions should be doubly reinforced by this divine couple. Said to protect her devotees from money-related woes, Lakshmi was born at the same time as other precious celestial objects like the moon, her brother, and her elder sister Alakshmi, the Goddess of Misfortune, during the celebrated Churning of the Ocean of Milk period when amrita, the source of power and divinity, was produced. The deva (heroes) and asura (baddies) were said to have used the serpent Vasuki to stir the Kshisagar (Ocean of Milk) for a thousand years. Upon the amrita (elixir of life) being produced, Vishnu took the form of lovely Lakshmi to distract the demons while the deva quickly drank the elixir and became immortal. Bring lotus flowers, sugarcane juice, coins, jewels and other symbols of wealth as offerings, and you will be rewarded manifold! Or so it is said. Now cross the road to Central World Plaza where the Trimurti Shrine is located in front of Isetan. As Trimurti is the manifestation of the Holy Trinity of Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver and Shiva the Destroyer, this shrine is said to be a powerful one. The joining of this trio, the holiest and most important in Hinduism, into one statue make Trimurti the represen- tation of the cosmos. However, in recent years, Trimurti has become very popular with young Thais for a different reason—they have designated him the God of Love! As a result, there are endless streams of young Thais and farang (foreigners) who pray to have the affairs of their heart sorted out. Try to come at 9:30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays because this is when Lord Trimurti descends to listen to prayers and grants love to those seeking it. Offerings include nine red joss sticks, red candles and, of course, red roses. A few steps away is Ganesha Shrine, devoted to the elephant-headed god, a.k.a. the Remover of Obstacles, Lord of Beginnings, Patron of the Arts and Sciences, and Deity of Intellect and Wisdom. Also known as Ganesh or Ganapati, he is known as Pikanet in Thai and his power is said to be in ascendance now. Devotees usually invoke his name at the beginning of prayers, important undertakings and religious ceremonies. When Ganesha was born, he had a human head. Despite his father Lord Shiva’s foreboding, his mother, Parvati, was so proud of his dazzling good looks that she insisted on showing him off to all the gods, including Shani (Saturn) who looked at Ganesha with his dreaded “evil eye”, burning his head into ashes. The distraught Parvati then begged Vishnu for help. Vishnu directed Shiva to chop off the head of the first living thing he came across, and this— it happens—turned out to be an elephant! Deed done, Vishnu then replaced Ganesha’s head with that of the elephant. Another version has Ganesha being born from Shiva’s laughter. As he was too alluring to bear, Shiva decided to give him an elephant’s head and a protruding belly. Ganesha is one of the most beloved and powerful of gods. Despite his size, his celestial vehicle is a tiny shrew or mouse! This well revered deity promotes success and protection from harm, which should just about take care of all of our earthly desires. • 35 POPDOM By Yasmin Lee Arpon Asia News Network s e v a l S Star AFP PH OTO / C-JeS Entertainme nt / H O or so we thought. , fe li s u ro o m la g a Pop stars live ntracts that take co ve a sl to d e ti re a Some of them hard-earned money d n a m o d e e fr , th u away their yo RENEGADES: Former members of South Korean boy band TVXQ (L-R) Hero Jae-Joong, Micky Yoo-Chun and Xiah Jun-Su have regrouped in Japan while their case against SM Entertainment is ongoing. I ❖ Bangkok 36 • Leong’s finances, receiving all her income and deducting its expenses and commissions before she gets anything. She was paid a “salary” of HK$5,000 (about US$644 in current terms) per month, but the royalties she was entitled to ranged from only below 1 per cent to 2 per cent of the net sales of her work, depending on the medium. Leong’s contract with EEG also stated that in case she severs the agreement, she was barred from working in the entertainment business for up to seven years. Such terms in what is dubbed as ‘slave contracts’ particularly in October 8-21, 2010 October 8-21, 2010 Agencies protested that they could not possibly allow their talents to change their contracts halfway when they have become famous, considering the huge amount of money they have invested in them. In the second quarter of this year, Korea’s Fair Trade Committee investigated 20 entertainment companies and found that 230 celebrities under 19 agencies had unlawful clauses in their contracts. Some contracts even have a clause requiring talents to fulfil “other services” imposed by the agency. There have been rumours that these include sex or escort services. These stories only show that behind all that glamour are sordid tales of some stars paying the price for fame and success. But is it worth it? Some like Leong, Woo and the three TVXQ members have taken steps to contest the terms of their contracts, but others have not been as brave, scared that they won’t be able to fight the system. On one hand, a netizen on the PopSeoul website (www.popseoul.com) named Joe called slave contracts as a “prison sentence with a lot of cash, clothes and coke”. Of course this depends on the amount of success the talent achieves, and it further differs when you have to share the earnings with others like in the case of Super Junior that has 13 members. This means the net profit of the group would have to be split into 13 and in the end, they don’t really get as much as what the public thinks. Some netizens are less than sympathetic though. “Not getting paid and working on a whim of a master is slavery,” another netizen posted on PopSeoul. “TVXQ signed a contract, knew where they were headed, get over (US$200,000 or about 228 million won) a year and live like princes... Working nonstop? They definitely have time off. Yeah, they work more than the 9-5 business people. So? It’s all spelled out in their contract.” Another said that it should be the parents who are to blame since these stars were too young at the time they signed the contract. Woo’s case has been resolved while that of the three members of TVXQ is still under way. Leong has settled out of court with EEG through the help of Richard Li, son of Hong Kong billionaire Li Kashing. The younger Li, the father of Leong’s three sons, reportedly paid US$6.2 million to bail Leong out from her contract with EEG. She lives a cushy life without having to slave as a singer or actress. And after lessons in the US, she can now read and speak English Who knows, with her newfound wealth, Leong can start her own agency and given her experience, offer more humane conditions to aspiring stars. asianpopdom@gmail.com FREED: Hong Kong actress-singer Isabella Leong has retired from the spotlight after her romance with Richard Li resulted in three male heirs to the Li fortune. POPBOX Common unfair clauses in ‘slave contracts’ ➜ Star must tell Agency of their exact location at all times ➜ If Star decides to cancel his/her contract, Star must stop all activities relating to or resulting from Star’s celebrity status ➜ Star cannot retire without Agency’s consent • 37 PHOTO BY A FP magine a 12-year-old girl who could barely read English— much more, understand it— presented with a contract that offers her a chance at stardom. Images of a glamorous life—with designer clothes, cars, trips abroad and most importantly, never having to worry about food on the table ever again—must have flashed before the young girl’s eyes. That moment, it was all that mattered and her mother, who neither read nor understood English, signed the contract, nevermind if by the time her daughter finishes it, she would have been 22 years old. This was the story of Hong Kong star Isabella Leong, who extended her contract with Emperor Entertainment Group (EEG) to 15 years when she turned 14, and to 20 years when she turned 17. This would have tied her to EEG until she was 32 years old. In 2008, or when Leong was 20, EEG hauled her to court for breach of contract. She countersued accusing EEG of unfair contract terms, among them, that she had to inform her manager of her whereabouts at all times and that she did not have ownership nor copyright and control of any of her works. EEG controlled South Korea, is common in the entertainment world. Last year, three members of the Korean boy group TVXQ filed a case against SM Entertainment, claiming that their 13-year contract was too long and that the group’s earnings have been unfairly distributed among the members. Other stars under SM Entertainment were also found to have similar slave contracts. Girls’ Generation’s Yoona was tied to a 13-year contract, that of members of Super Junior ranged from between five and 13 years, while members of SHINee from six to 13 years. In August this year, South Korea’s Supreme Court invalidated long-term contracts between entertainers and their agencies saying they were “unfair”. The court’s decision stemmed from a case filed by U-Kiss member Woo Sung-hyun against Ssing Entertainment over his 10-year contract stipulating that inactive periods caused by health reasons or the mandatory military service would be added to the term. The agency also required him to pay three times its investment should he violate the terms and conditions. The court’s ruling that contracts longer than seven years are unfair, in effect, put a stop to entertainment agencies’ practice of tying their stars under slave-like contracts. “The first 10 years after his debut album constitute virtually his entire life as a singer. Given the nature of the industry, the contract term is unfair and excessively infringes upon his rights,” the court said in its ruling favouring Woo. Entertainment agencies, however, reason that a 10-year contract is par for the course since it takes as much time to train, launch and turn these wannabes into stars. In Korea for example, it takes two to three years of tough training—in dancing, singing, hosting, acting etc.—before anyone could debut. These trainees start when they are teens and by the time they reach the peak of their success, if they do, they would be in their 20s. MUSIC By Jane Kitagawa The Daily Yomiuri Mix Masters Jazzing Through Tokyo Streets B ❖ Tokyo The jazz taxi service offers a novel way to explore the sights and soundtrack of Tokyo W PH OTO BY A FP ❖ Tokyo e hopped into the taxi, but knew immediately this was no ordinar y ride. “ Tok yo is a jazz town,” begins taxi driver Toshiyuki Anzai, animatedly speaking as the crisp sounds of a brass section burst through the cab’s speakers. “The city’s landscape is improvised, messy, unplanned—just like the music. But if I had to really pinpoint Tokyo’s style, I would say it’s atmospheric; it woos you, it’s seductive. That’s the style of jazz here...it makes a move on you!” His excitement palpable, it is obvious that this city and its soundtrack have made a move on Anzai. “I was (originally) working for a taxi company, but I wasn’t enjoying it,” Anzai explains. “I decided to become my own boss, but as soon as I got my private cab license in 1991, I realised that if I was going to step out on my own, I needed to enjoy it more, otherwise things would never change. “I thought about what I was into at the time—jazz—and of pairing this with taxi driving. I could combine my two areas of expertise—jazz and Tokyo— hence the jazz taxi service was born.” 38 • A novel way to explore the sights and soundtrack of Tokyo, the jazz taxi service (http://homepage2.nifty. com/jazztaxi) comprises a 90-minute night cruise around central city landscapes paired to background music especially chosen by Anzai. The 68-year-old cabbie is enthusiastic when describing how he pairs this music, selected from his personal collection, with carefully chosen spots around the city. “Music is evocative, it’s such a pleasure choosing music for the night cruise,. Tokyo is such a magnificent city. I never tire of it. So much has changed over the years. Driving over the Rainbow Bridge in Odaiba is one of my favourite pastimes. It’s so dramatic, and in winter, so eerie, the building tops surrounded by fog. Breaking away from jazz, Wagner’s Ride of the Valkryies is so fitting, you know?” Another of Anzai’s favourite spots is Tsukuda, near the Sumidagawa river. Here, despite having never travelled overseas—”I’m petrified of flying!”—he has discovered Tokyo’s own New York. Frank Sinatra’s New York, New York sets the tone. “It’s become a popular proposal spot, actually,” Anzai says. “There have been 61 proposals on my tour so far, and all of the women said ‘Yes!’ I still receive postcards from such customers once they end up having children! Three proposals took place within the taxi; that must have put pressure on the poor women. But the rest took place down near the river and I discreetly watched proceedings from above.” Despite his lack of travel, Anzai is an avid movie buff and loves using the Internet to research different cultures and locales for inspiration. “When some men see the Tokyo ‘New York’ location, they look upset. I can tell the area doesn’t live up to their expectations. But once the music starts playing, Sinatra starts crooning and everything kicks in, they realise how appropriate it is. And thank me afterward,” Anzai laughs. Birthdays are another of the business’ mainstays. “I keep champagne in the trunk for the occasion and serenade my passengers with Happy Birthday on harmonica, which I first learned to play in middle school. Listening to Louis Armstrong at that time, and Radio FEN (now AFN), is what inspired my love of jazz,” Anzai recalls. The service has also helped Anzai’s October 8-21, 2010 business remain recession-proof at a time when most taxis are struggling for bookings. While most of his customers are in their 20s and 30s, people often end up booking the jazz taxi night cruise for their parents. After all, everyone has a birthday, and at different times of the year. What has also cemented Anzai’s popularity is the taxi’s sound system: The music is provided by an iPod boasting over 10,000 tunes, and powered by Soviet-era 6BQ5 Class AB vacuum tubes set in a locally made amplifier system. “It led to a lot of favourable press, in the early days,” says Anzai. “I had reporters from specialist audio magazines end up interviewing me, and business snowballed from there. It’s even resulted in certain promoters requesting the taxi for touring musicians. I’ve been lucky enough to meet Randy Baker, Chick Corea—that was certainly a surprise,” he recalls. Toward the end of our journey, the music changes. Sinatra’s My Way comes through the speakers. Although reserved for passengers who’ve successfully proposed to their partners, the tune no doubt reveals something about Anzai as well. October 8-21, 2010 ack in 1929, Japan saw the opening of its first jazz coffee shop—a jazz kissa called the Blackbird. Like many to come, it was located across the road from a university and its purpose was to introduce its customers to foreign music. It also heralded social change, eventually offering a place for artists, students and intellectuals to meet. But ultimately, it was about the music. “You can’t write a thorough cultural histor y of post war Japan without being attentive to the world of jazz,” says historian and jazz pianist Mike Molasky, winner of the 2006 Suntory Prize for Arts and Letters for his book Sengo Nihon no Jazu Bunka: Eiga, Bungaku, Angura (jazz culture of postwar Japan: film, literature, the underground). He also published a book on jazz kissa, Jazu Kissaron, in February this year. Along with many other cafés of its ilk, it continued to play a range of music until the late 1950s, when perceptions of jazz changed. At this time, the ‘modern’ jazz kissa appeared, attracting an intellectual crowd that was more underground than mainstream. “Between 1958 and 1961, when American jazz drummer Art Blakey and the Jazz Messengers toured with their album The Freedom Rider,” continues Molasky, “the ears of students, intellectuals and artists were open for the first time, and modern jazz seemed both energetic and dynamic and refined and worthy of their own intellectual aspirations.” By 1976, there were about 500 of the jazz coffee shops in Japan. Cities such as Tokyo and Kyoto became hubs where jazz was tied to the political and artistic happenings of the time. “The jazz kissa’s popularity was partly due to the lack of high-quality performances available at the time,” says Takashi Yamamoto, Disc Union jazz and DIW (Disc in the World) label director, as he recalls his days spent visiting, then working, at a jazz kissa in Meidaimae called Miles. Run by a friendly lady called Motoyama san, the cafe first opened in 1960, has a strict vinyl-only policy, and was once visited by John Coltrane. “No radio stations were broadcasting jazz, and few people could afford imported records or audio systems. Vinyl was hideously expensive...300 dollars per record. And in the typical Japanese wooden house, it was impossible to play music loudly.” Despite the costs of the hard-tofind records, little was actually needed to start up a successful jazz kissa, according to musician Otomo Yoshihide, who recounts in his essay “Leaving the Jazz Cafe”: “2.5 by 6 metres of space. That and a pair of huge JBL or Altec speakers, a couple hundred jazz records and a bar counter were all that was necessary to open your basic jazz kissa. (They) often would be run by an arty, interesting man or woman, who would play records on their system all day long, according to their own taste...Charlie Mingus, Ornette Coleman, Eric Dolphy, and sometimes Derek Bailey or Evan Parker.” While the details have since changed, the spirit has stayed much the same. There are new kissa designed to foster intellectual connections through jazz music, there are a handful of festivals and there is constant innovation. On the festival front, Jazz Art Sengawa, held in Chofu, western Tokyo, began three years ago with a strong curatorial focus on featuring local performers of free jazz and alternative improvised music to contrast with more famous events, such as the Tokyo Jazz Festival. Also important is the curatorial crossover between jazz musicians and artists from other genres such as novelists, dancers, filmmakers, actors and poets. “The development of jazz is marked by its absorption of various traits from other musical genres. Its history is full of free and innovative changes. What is now said to be ‘outside jazz’ could become mainstream during the next generation,” explains renowned jazz critic Teruto Soejima. • 39 TECHNOLOGY By Louise Lavabre The Jakarta Post ILLU STRAT IO N BY THE NATI O N (TH AIL AN D ) Talking With Our Thumbs Twitter may turn out to be a real counter power in a country like Indonesia 40 • ‘F ❖ Jakarta ollow us on Twitter’. If you get a chance to stroll around the streets of Jakarta, this is what you are increasingly likely to read on the iron facade of even the tiniest stalls. Follow us on Twitter? Yes, every little music shop in Indonesia seems to have a Twitter account—and so do 6 million Indonesians who are now members of the website. With more than 20 per cent of Indonesian Internet users holding a Twitter account, Indonesia is the sixth most active country on the famous micro-blogging site, according to Internet marketing research company ComScore. The key to Twitter’s success? Simplicity. With just 140 characters, tweeters answer one basic question: What’s happening? People can, and do, tweet about everything from what they’ve just been eating to how they feel about a government policy. Twitter is nothing but a mere container of random thoughts, stories, instants in people’s lives from all over the planet who decide it is worth sharing those 140 characters with their webmates. Twitter is riding on people’s growing desire to be constantly “present” in each other’s lives, and to share even the smallest details of their lives or thoughts with everyone, including people they don’t know. Sherry Turkle, a sociologist from MIT and a specialist in networking, recently described the social network community as a “lonely crowd”, a place where “your psychology becomes a performance”, in The New York Times. This concept has been adopted en masse in Indonesia, where people October 8-21, 2010 have a strong sense of community and already an intense mobile texting activity. “Everywhere in Asia, and in particular in Indonesia, social networking is huge, and this is due to two major factors: the particularly high mobile phone penetration, and the sense of community,” Vaishali Rastogi, Boston Consulting Group Southeast Asia Chairman, told The Jakarta Post. She added that mobile penetration was expected to continue to increase and Internet broadband would develop fast in the years to come in Indonesia. This is good news for Indonesian twittering. “Have you ever seen an Indonesian alone in a mall or a café? Indonesians like to be with others, and above all, they like trends. If someone says this is the next cool thing to do, then everybody is going to follow,” actor Arifin Putra, one of the most active Indonesian celebrities on Twitter, told the Post. “So basically if you give the tool to the right people, then it can become huge very fast,” he added. And indeed, this is what has happened. The most prominent stars, politicians, brands and associations of Indonesia are tweeting away in cyberspace. Not to mention the millions of anonymous Indonesians also tweeting every day. Because this is the Twitter revolution: with this really simple tool, you are let into the intimacy of p e o p l e yo u c o u l d h ave n eve r reached before, people who finally step from their pedestal down to this “lonely crowd”. Twitter reverses the logic: People who used to be fans become friends with famous people, and vice versa, your friends become actual fans of your tweets. “Basically, I am just a tweet away”, sums up Arifin, who with 25,000 followers (people who automatically see your tweets), uses Twitter as a way to get closer to his fans, as a promotional mean. And it sure works. October 8-21, 2010 The entire launch of the film Rumah Dara, in which Arifin plays one of the main characters, happened on Twitter. People responsible for promoting the film started to tweet about the synopsis and the actors. They then sent out videos, photos, and ended up posting quizzes and games for tweeters to win tickets for previews. Twitter helped create a big buzz around the release of the movie, which was not only a commercial success but also earned Shareefa Daanish an award for best actress at the Puchon International Film Festival in South Korea. A distinction should be made be- tween social tweeting and promotional tweeting. But in the end, isn’t it all about promotion, since when people tweet about the book they are reading or where they are spending their holidays, they are still, in a way, promoting themselves to their followers by giving out clues about their personality? Twitter is a way to create a virtual identity that will promote the image you want people to have of you. This holds true for famous people and anonymous twitterers. Indonesians understand Twitter all too well. Many famous restaurants, bars, clubs, brands have Twitter accounts they use as a free marketing platform. While Twitter is often used as a way to promote oneself in Indonesia, it is also used as a way to promote ideas, enhance movements and shifts. This is where Twitter enters t h e m e d i a s p h e re . Tw i tte re rs share news, web links to actual articles or videos relaying the news. By retweeting (forwarding) a tweet, people can spread information very fast to an incredible number of followers. Twitterers are in fact creating news themselves. There are many example of news breaking on Twitter here, for instance the July 2009 bombing of the Ritz-Carlton and JW Marriott hotels in Jakarta. Because updates are in real time, Twitter is closer to the present than any media. Malaysia and corruption were two of the hottest topics on Twitter last week, highlighting Twitter is a way as well to gauge the mood of people and understand what strikes them more in the news. Twitter may turn out to be a real counter power in a country like Indonesia. On Twitter, Indonesian can express themselves freely about what’s going on in the country; they can choose to follow NGOs or political parties that promote another vision than the one proposed by the government in power. In a young democracy like Indonesia, Twitter can be seen as a real tool to strengthen the idea of the individual self and the one of equal sharing. Twitter enhances self-consciousness and helps to build a political community. For instance, the fake Islam Defender Front (FPI) group created on Twitter, which, through satire, criticises the real Islamic defenders front, has 22,908 followers. Muslim scholar Ulil Abshar Abdalla who defends a liberal Islam, counts 23,696 followers. “We used to talk with our tongues, we now talk with our thumbs,” someone tweeted the other day. To paraphrase the tweeter, one could say Indonesia used to express itself with its tongue, and is now going to express itself with its thumbs, its millions of thumbs. And this is much harder to control. • 41 SPORTS PHILIPPINES By Monette Quiogue Philippine Daily Inquirer Winning The Race episode because of an inept cab driver. “You live and die by your taxi driver” is a rule that the Marc-Rovilson partnership remembered well and used to their advantage. Geoff and Tisha couldn’t help but agree, “The one thing that cost us the race was not of our doing,” says Tisha. “We did everything that we could to get in first place in the final leg. Which included being first out of the airport, first to the clue box, and so on. Unfortunately, our cab driver had no idea where he was going and we couldn’t even flag down another driver, or ask for directions to the place we were looking for.” There were lessons learned along the way. It was a lesson in humility, says Ernie of the Race, and on the need for mental preparedness, adds Jeena. Asked what they’d do differently given another chance to join the Race, Ernie laughs: “I wouldn’t take the Fast Forward. And I wouldn’t have let go of the good cab driver.” Marc and Rovilson, on the other hand, say they’d have done things exactly the way they did, even the final damning task. Even before the race, the pair had agreed that they would alternate doing the road blocks, which was why the flag-identification task landed on Rovilson. “If we had to do it again, we’d do the exact same thing,” says Rovilson. “It ended the way it should have: the underdogs won.” He adds, “It wasn’t about the winning, but travelling together and doing well.” It was an attitude that the two guys held on, right to the disappointing end. After the flag task, Rovilson remembers Marc our advantage. We know how to use our abilities.” A little more preparation doesn’t hurt, says Rovilson who adds that teams have to be smart to win. “Study old episodes and learn from the mistakes of the past teams.” What other advice can they give the RP team? “I don’t know that they’d want advice from me,” says Ernie with a laugh, but gamely adds: “If you have a good cab driver, don’t let him go!” Offers Tisha: “Relish the moment. Have no regrets!” Having a good attitude, Rovilson agrees, is key to enjoying and even winning the race. “Money and winning are not the top goal. Make friends and keep the friends that you make.” But really, are there strategies they can immediately apply? Rovilson Filipino racers are young, fit and gung-ho, not to mention good-looking, but they have yet to win ‘The Amazing Race Asia’ T PH OTO S F RO M TH E A MA ZING RACE AS I A P UB L IC IT Y ❖ Manila hey came, they raced, but didn’t quite conquer. For three seasons, local viewers watched The Amazing Race Asia (TARA) with sanguine anticipation. After all, most of the Filipino racers were young, fit and gung-ho, not to mention good-looking. But the final pit stop always proved to be the pits for the Filipino team. So what went wrong? And what can Filipinos do right to get ahead of the pack? Looking back, what would the RP (Philippines) team have done differently? Well, for starters, they’d still join TARA. “Joining Amazing Race was my dream,” reveals Jeena Lopez, who considers herself and husband Ernie as an active and adventurous couple. The pair has tried bungee jumping, diving, tech diving, wreck diving, rock climbing, wake boarding and 42 • skydiving, among other sports, and joining the Race was the logical next step on their checklist. Early favourites Marc Nelson and Rovilson Fernandez meanwhile suddenly found themselves single on the last week of the audition and decided the Race was just what they needed to climb out of the dumps. With the help of friends, they turned in what the show’s producers described as “the best audition tape ever”. Filipino-Canadian former beauty queen Tisha Silang confesses that the reality show enticed her because “it involved a lot of travelling, which I love”. Teammate Geoff Rodriguez had a different reason for joining. “I wanted to beat Marc and Rovilson. Plus, have the adventure of a lifetime,” he says unabashedly. Once accepted, the teams went into the thick of preparations, from practicing their physical skills, to watching the old episodes of The Amazing Race USA. Marc even loaded the episodes in his iPod. “We were watching the series right up to the time they took our things from us.” They should also have practiced self-restraint, some of the teams rue. Says Tisha: “Our weakness as a dating couple at the time was that we argued a lot more than the other teams. Time spent arguing might have been better spent on finding solutions quicker.” Fortunately for Ernie and Jeena, the couple had agreed beforehand that they would not argue on-camera. “We didn’t want to embarrass ourselves in front of everyone,” says Ernie. Being extremely competitive, the pair managed to put aside their differences and focus on the tasks at hand. Still, not everything can be controlled, the racers realise now. “The race is all about brains, brawn and luck,” says Ernie of their team being eliminated in the second October 8-21, 2010 Geoff Rodriguez and Tisha Silang Marc Nelson and Rovilson Fernandez “Decision making is harder under pressure. You don’t have time to think,” says Geoff, who got a lot of flak from fellow contenders for his brusque manner. “I learned that being ruthless and playing the game will not win you the race.” Rovilson is as candid, recalling how he lost the race for his team when he failed to identify the flags of several Asian countries. His particular learning at that point? “The history and geography lessons in the US are sub-par compared to the rest of the world,” says this TV host who studied in the United States. October 8-21, 2010 ‘The Amazing Race Asia 2’ competing teams with Marc Nelson holding the Philippine flag. telling him in the cab, “It was an honour racing with you. Let’s hold our head high; we have nothing to be ashamed of.” With TARA’s Season 4 which premiered recently, local viewers can’t help but ask, “Will Filipinos ever win this Race?” Previous contenders seem to have it all: strength, intelligence, teamwork, fitness, but they weren’t enough. Do Filipinos actually have a shot at the top prize? Jeena wholeheartedly agrees. “Maabilidad ang Pinoy (Filipinos are ver y resourceful). We know how to make the rules work to Ernie and Jeena Lopez says: “Use the Internet!” And Marc adds: “Pack light!” Still, even the smallest backpack should have room for a bit of national pride. Take it from Marc who was carrying a Philippine flag the whole time. “I was hoping that I could run to the final pit stop with it,” says this Australian citizen who is English-Burmese-Chinese by blood, but describes himself as “the biggest wanna-be Pinoy (Filipino)”. Hopefully, the thought of representing the country in this globally-watched series should be enough to give Filipino racers wings on their feet. • 43 TRAVEL BITES By Jofelle P. Tesorio Asia News Network Postcard Perfect If you are reading this, ask yourself: when was the last time I received a postcard? 44 • T ❖ Bangkok hey always say that a postcard is better than something sent through electronic mails. Getting a postcard is something we look forward to in the past. The short message conveyed in the postcard is enough to make our day because we know that the person sending it found the time to write and remember us. The best thing with getting a postcard is we hold on to something physical that we can hang on the wall or carefully stashed in a shoe box full of other postcards and handwritten mails. Until now, despite the fact that most people prefer e-postcards, I have friends and loved ones who constantly send postcards wherever they go. It is different from a postcard-perfect photo of your friend on Facebook. With networking sites, seeing a travel picture doesn’t evoke feeling of nostalgia because you know that there are hundreds of people who receive that photo automatically. You don’t feel special at all. Even in this day and age, we still long for a certain personal relationship that goes beyond networking sites. The real postcard gives so much more warmth than the electronic one. The last time I visited a friend’s house, I saw the postcard I sent from The Netherlands a couple of months ago tucked on the door of the fridge. My friend said she was surprised and felt special because she never receives snail mails or postcards at all. Factor in the fact that she is an ‘80s baby. By the time she grew up, sending postcards had been overtaken by MySpace, Friendster, Facebook and Twitter. October 8-21, 2010 The fact is not all travellers bother to send real postcards. With the availability of Wi-Fi, it is more convenient to just post photos of travels instantly through smartphones or Internet. People these days communicate with their thumbs and no longer with pen and paper. Finding a shop that sells postcards, stamps and mailboxes to match is harder than getting a Wi-Fi or Internet access. Today, when we travel and get overwhelmed with the beauty of the place, the instant reaction is to share the photos from our digital cameras or smartphones and upload on the Internet for everyone to see. It’s a fast world; we don’t have time to just sit down and reflect by simply picking up a postcard and write what we feel. Some travellers also find it hard to compose a postcard message, which October 8-21, 2010 is probably a little more than 140 characters that Twitter allows. This postcard dilemma was posted online: “I am having trouble writing a good postcard, with such limited space I feel like I can hardly greet the person and i run out of room. I don’t want any thing lame like ‘Wish you were here’.” Is there really a formula for postcard writing? How creative can you get with such limited space to write on? One best online answer this fellow got is to start with choosing a postcard with a picture of a place that the traveller has already seen or about to visit. Then he can also discuss the weather if it’s so different from home or the buzz of activity in the place. When I was in Southern France, I sent a postcard of a wine tasting event to a friend who dreams of becoming a wine connoisseur. I wrote a short message about our recent trip to a vineyard in small village called Octon and how we drank wine every afternoon because a bottle of wine cost only US$3. Choosing a postcard can also be time-consuming if you think of the person receiving it. What kind of image does my mother love or would my artist friend like a picture of Angkor Wat at sunrise? To avoid this problem, I usually look for free promotional postcards at the airports, restaurants, bars and hotels. There’s a minefield of free postcards from these places. You will be surprised that some of them are better than the ones for sale. If you couldn’t find free postcards, the generic ones are the safest bet. It’s the thought that counts. If sending a postcard is a problem, you can always ask people for the nearest post office. But if you don’t have time, the hotel staff (even in the cheapest hostel) always knows how to get your postcards sent. Some hotels have free postal service as long as you have stamps on. But when I was in Kolkata, India, the staff at the two-star hotel I was staying asked for 50 rupees (US$1) for my postcards to be delivered at the post office. This was meant for transportation of the staff and maybe some snack money, which I didn’t mind at all. The six postcards I sent reached their destinations within two weeks. Make someone at home smile and feel loved. Send a postcard whenever you have a chance. Happy travels! travelbites.asia@gmail.com • 45 TRAVEL THAILAND By Phoowadon Duangmee The Nation (Thailand) Wild Women White water rafting is not just a man’s thing PH OTO S by TH E NATIO N (TH AI LAND ) NO EASY FEAT: The city girls from Bangkok ready to tame the wild waters. 46 • T ❖ Chiang Mai he signpost for Baan Kuet Chang is far behind us and we’re about as remote as you can be in Thailand’s Chiang Mai, way out in Mae Taeng. In minutes we’re descending into a deep valley—no more villages to be seen. I’m in a convoy of pick-up trucks full of women who range in age from early 20s to late 40s, but what brings them to such a forsaken place? To our left, the Mae Taeng River meanders wildly, and on the right is a wall of rock sprouting tall trees and bamboo. I make a mental note: “Women are very hard to figure out.” “One minute they’re putting on beautiful outfits to go power shopping at the malls. The next, they’re more than 700km from posh Siam Paragon mall in Bangkok, packed October 8-21, 2010 into cramped vehicles and yet still giggling happily.” These girls are about to ride inflatable rafts down the Mae Teang, one of the big draws of the womenonly Lady Journey travel campaign promoted by the Tourism Authority of Thailand and UOB credit cards. In fact, the five rafts get off to a nice and easy start, the ladies and some decidedly androgynous male companions bold enough to make fun of their skippers, all of whom are moonlighting local farmers. “Oh, my God, look at my captain!” PR executive Ning raves about the young, muscled man at the helm. “What’s he doing out here in the middle of nowhere?” There’s a burst of raucous laughter. I’m a male observing that, when women travel in packs, they’re no different than guys when someone of the opposite sex comes close enough to tease. The river sweeps into lower terrain, continuing its tumble from higher ground in Wiang Hae district to become one the country’s great rafting experiences. The ribbon of frequently savage water threads 154km past highland crops and rainforest before joining the broad Ping River. The rains drag topsoil into the current, turning the crystal-clear water a cappuccino brown. The Wa River in Thailand’s Nan province gives rafters long pauses between rapids, but the Mae Taeng stays furious most of the time, its turbulence linked every few kilometres. “There’s no doubt that the Mae Taeng is the best river for inflatable rafts,” says Nam, who owns the Baan Anatta Resort in the village of Sob Kai at our starting point. “There’s a glorious mix of exertion, excitement and silent contemOctober 8-21, 2010 plation. The best section is from Sob Kai to Kuet Chang—10km of wild rapids and cascades.” We find that part soon enough, an S-shaped rush of adrenaline that demands fast action by our captain at the rudder. He assesses the bloated creek that’s pouring into the river, adding a spin to the current like the first hazardous turn on the Sepang racetrack. If he guesses wrong, the raft will f lip, and his paying customers will be bobbing perilously for another 100 metres. “When I say ‘left’, those on the left have to paddle very hard,” he shouts. “Same for the right. That’s how we get away from these nasty whirlpools.” “Just tell me when to jump,” one of his riders deadpans. The boat darts into the jumping with the paddles. In another hour there will be rapids with names like Fang Koh (Deer Island), dominated by a huge rock in the middle of the river, and Dragon, which wriggles like a snake before jumping into the final turbulence near Kuet Chang. The lower section of the Mae Taeng is far less angry, the steep sides replaced by lovely views of lychee orchards, terraced rice paddies and cornfields. “I hardly ever have holidays like this,” one of the women muses as she paddles along contentedly. “We might drive to Hua Hin with the family on a long weekend, but most of the time we stay put at home.” It turns out that I’m in the “banking boat”—three of the four women are in finance. Given the choice between tallying numbers cascade, bounces off a boulder twice and becomes trapped in a whirlpool. Our adrenaline is keeping up with the river current as spinning water sucks us downward. I almost go overboard, but the woman beside me grabs hold. Little difference—the boat is full of water anyway and everyone is sopping wet as they cling to their seats. “We’re facing the wrong way!” someone screams as we bound off another rock and take a sharp turn against the thundering flow. “Get down and hold the rope tight!” the captain commands. But the river insists on winning, and we surrender all control and direction. We’re swept downstream like a teabag in a toilet. When the ordeal is finally over, a chorus of “Yeah!” rises from the bottom of our lungs and we high-five and chasing dodgy debtors, or flying and floating down a river of drama, they’d rather be 700km from their desks. The adrenaline has come in high-voltage jolts for these normally lethargic city girls, and now their trip can end in style at the Baan Anatta Resort. With glasses of chilled Chardonnay in hand, they can let down their hair and dry themselves in the warm sun. Girls gone whoa! The Tourism Authority of Thailand and UOB credit cards can send you off on several types of allinclusive weekend packages designed for women only. Find out more from Thailand Tourism Authority’s Wit+Wisdom at (+662) 652 077780, lady.journey@ hotmail.com or www.TourismThailand.org/LadyJourney. • 47 EXPLORE THAILAND By James Rong Asia News Network TRAINED: An elephant draws a picture at the Maesa Elephant Camp in Chiang Mai. treat was required by the camp and the second was actually forced because in the middle of the ride, the animal refused to budge until I bought it some banana and sugarcane. According to Thai legend, a marriage is like an elephant—the husband is the front legs that choose the direction, the wife the back legs, providing the power. When it comes to Thailand, people naturally think of Bangkok. But Chiang Mai has actually become the unofficial capital of northern Thailand as it grows in cultural, trading and economic importance. The city is only second in importance to Bangkok. Amazing Trip In Chiang Mai While the largest city Bangkok is bustling and sumptuous, Chiang Mai—the second-largest— is quiet, leisurely and simple E PH OTO S By JA ME S RO NG /A S IA NEWS N E T WO R K ❖ Bangkok veryone must have seen elephants either on TV or in real life, but have you taken a ride on top of it? I don’t think ever yone has the chance, but I sure did. My fantastic experience riding an elephant happened in Chiang Mai’s Maesa Elephant Camp. It is located in the lush tropical jungle of Chiang Mai’s Maesa Valley, about a one-hour drive from the downtown area. It is the largest elephant training camp in Chiang Mai province and one of the largest assembly of elephants in the 48 • north of Thailand. In the camp, elephants are trained by mahouts to play basketball and football, throw darts and pile up wood, among other things. Amazingly enough, the lovely animals can even draw very good pictures just like human beings do. After watching the performances by the elephants, I took an elephant ride through the maintain road and river for half an hour at a price of 800 baht (US$26). The experience on the back of an elephant for the first time in my life was terrific. During the ride, I gave the elephant two treats. The first Guangzhou city, is Thailand’s largest zoo. With an area of over 327 acres (1.32km), it is two times the size of Singapore’s Night Safari. Surrounded by Doi Suthep-Pui National Park about 15km from Chiang Mai city, the government nature theme park offers an excellent habitat for more than 400 animals of over 50 species. Here you can interact closely with wild animals from around the world, including kangaroos, wallabies, dingoes, emus, eagles from the Australian Outback; wild boar, giraffes, zebras, antelope, lions, hyenas, cheetahs, rhi- nation to escape from summer heat as it is cool year-round. The mountain’s forested slopes include evergreen, pine forest and mixed deciduous teak. What is unique about Doi Intanon is its primitive jungle. Wandering through the jungle can make people totally forget about the hurly-burly of city life and achieve spiritual purification. Inside the jungle, you can enjoy the combined comfort of the sound of water trickling and twittering of the birds. It’s a luxury from nature. Thailand is a country characterized by the Buddhist culture and temples MOUNTAIN HIGH: The primitive jungle in Doi Intanon, Thailand’s highest mountain. WINGED CREATURES: Greater Flamingos are seen at the Chiang Mai Night Safari. Chiang Mai is both the name of the province and its provincial capital. The city of Chiang Mai has a population of 250,000 out of the provincial total of 1.6 million. While the largest city, Bangkok, is bustling and sumptuous, Chiang Mai—the second-largest—is quiet, leisurely and simple. For animal lovers who travel to Chiang Mai, the night safari is a mustsee attraction. Chiang Mai Night Sa fari, the world’s third nocturnal zoo after those in Singapore and China’s October 8-21, 2010 noceros and hippopotamus from African Savannah; pandas, elephants, wolves, black bears, tigers, crocodiles, yaks, vultures, camels and peacocks from Asia as well as mountain goats, jaguars, mountain lions, alpacas and jackals from the Americas. It was the first time I saw so many animals. After dinner, I took a walk in the zoo for about one hour, looking at animals enjoying themselves and feeding some of them including lions, horses and goats. And then after it became dark came the fantastic experience of riding on an open tour van through the habitats of the lovely animals. When the van passed by, most animals seemed completely undisturbed, while some like giraffes and zebras even came up to say hello to us. You can even touch them, it’s so cool. During my travel in Chiang Mai, what impressed me most was the Doi Inthanon National Park. It covers a vast area and is home to Thailand’s highest mountain at a height of 2,565m. Doi Intanon is an ideal destiOctober 8-21, 2010 it remained the tallest structure in Chiang Mai for over 500 years. The present restored chedi is about 60m high. I was lucky to see Buddhists monks, including many young ones, during their evening prayer session when I visited the temple. They chanted Buddhist teachings reverently, dressed in yellow robes. During my visit to the two temples, I saw many people worshipping. In Thailand, more than 95 per cent are Buddhists. It’s a pity that many cars are parked beside the main buildings in the two temples, severely denting their traditional charm. FRENZY: Chiang Mai’s night market. are an integral part of the culture. Chiang Mai, the capital of the Lanna Kingdom (1292-1774), has over 300 Buddhist temples (called wat in Thai). Tourists need to take off their shoes before entering the temples to show respect. The main buildings of the two temples are splendid, partly as a result of renovations. They offer examples of classic northern Thai style architecture. Wat Phra Singh, dating back from 1345, is located in the western part of the old city centre of Chiang Mai, which is contained within the city walls and moat. Back in 1367, the statue of Phra Buddha Singh was brought to the temple and it has since used its present name. The main entrance, guarded by singhs (lions), is situated at the end of Rachadamnoen road. Wat Chedi Luang is within a 10-15 minute walk from Wat Phra Singh. The chedi, an alternative term for stupa, in Wat Chedi Luang used to be 90m high before it was partly destroyed in an earthquake in 1545 and After visiting the temples, I ended my trip with a visit to the weekend market nearby. Chiang Mai is really a shoppers’ paradise. At the weekend market, there is a wide variety of goods you can choose from, including household items, clothes, Thai handicrafts, religious artifacts, collectibles and food. What is most appealing to me were the handicrafted items which the city is famous for. According to the tour guide, a lot of handicrafts elsewhere in Thailand come from Chiang Mai. The prices in the weekend market are even lower than at the night bazaar, another main venue for shopping which takes up four blocks of Chang Khlan Road. It’s amazing to take a stroll in the weekend market, which is a walking street covering several blocks. You just cannot resist the temptation to buy something. And if you do decide to buy, you must be ready to bargain with the vendors as they usually charge very high. • 49 DATEBOOK Flora Expo JAPAN F1 Japanese Grand Prix S I NGA PO RE JewelFest 2010 This event is a popular affair as the style, glamour and luxury of the innumerable pieces on show are accessible to members of the public. Situated in the shopping heart of Singapore along Orchard Road, entry to the event is free. When: Ongoing until October 10 Where: Jewel Pavilion, Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza and other locations Info: www.singaporejewelfest.com The Japanese Grand Prix is held at the Suzuka circuit in Suzuka City, where one can expect the smell of gasoline and burned rubber as some of the world’s fastest engines thunder past. State-of-the-art cars costing millions race at speeds of up to 200mph (320kmh), and teams are followed all over the world by a faithful band of rich and famous jetsetters. When: October 8-10 Where: Suzuka Circuit International Racing Course Info: www.mobilityland.co.jp/english/ When: November 6, 2010-April 25, 2011 Where: Yuanshan Info: www.2010taipeiexpo.tw B EI JI N G 798 Art Festival It’s an exciting time for Beijing’s art scene with Beijing’s 798 Art Zone, famous throughout the world as one of China’s main centres for cutting edge contemporary art. Once the former factory grounds of Beijing North China wireless factory, this fascinating area, with its Bauhaus architectural style, has been converted into a trendy art zone, dotted with galleries, art organisations, cafes and shops. H O NG KO NG International Comedy Festival If you need a good laugh, head to Hong Kong’s Take Out Comedy Club. Well-known comedians from all over the world have audiences rolling with laughter during the annual Hong Kong International Comedy Festival. when: Ongoing until October 16 Where: Take Out Comedy Club cost: HK$150-HK$300 (US$19US$39) Info: www.hkcomedyfestival.com/ The 2010 Taipei International Flora Exposition, a category A2B1 horticulture exposition, will be the first such internationally recognised exposition to take place in Taiwan’s capital city, and the seventh of its kind to take place in Asia. Featuring a theme of ‘Rivers, Flowers, New Horizons’, the Expo will include 14 exhibition halls, each with its own unique style, spread across an area of 91.8 hectares, all dedicated to showcasing notable achievements in horticulture, science, and environmental protection technology. PHU KE T When: Ongoing until October 17 Info: www.798district.com Vegetarian Festival Phuket island seems like a curious place for a vegetarian festival, but the Phuket Vegetarian Festival has become world renowned for its food and its curious religious rites. Held during the ninth Chinese lunar month, the vegetarian festival spans the first nine days of the lunar month. During that time, Buddhists of Chinese descent follow a strict vegetarian diet, wear white clothing and observe a set of rules that are intended to purify their bodies and minds. When: October 8-16 50 • October 8-21, 2010 P oster from F 1 Japa n Grand Prix TAI P EI 1 8/31/07 TeaserHGRS_AsiaNewsAdvtv2_080807.qxp:Layout 197x121 7:Layout 1 28.6.2010 9:14 Uhr Seite 1 9:29 AM Teaser 197x121 4.6.09:Layout 1 4.6.2009 11:22 Uhr Page 1 Seite 1 Global competition Building Asia together.2009: Rewarding Two Holcim Awards for Asia construction in Asia Whether you’re building or investing in factories, homes, bridges, schoolhouses or shopping malls we’re the perfect partner make for sustainable construction The Holcim Awards to competition and visions attracted your project happen. As the No. 1 supplier ofprojects building materials inalmost 5,000 entries from 121 countries – the most outstanding were honored with Global Asia we can deliver the right solutions when and where it counts. Holcim Awards 2009. Find out more on page 15. 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