THE BOOT BOOK

11 BIG ISSUES EVERYONE WILL BE TALKING ABOUT IN 2011
EXCLUSIVE!
SALES DATA
FROM THE
NSRA BUSINESS
PERFORMANCE
REPORT
BOOTS
ARE NOW MANDATORY
FALL 2011 STYLES FOR
EVERY MAN, WOMAN & CHILD
RETAILING’S
LUCKY
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THE
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A Formula4 Media Publication / January/February 2011
Editor in Chief
Mark Sullivan
msullivan@formula4media.com
646-319-7878
Editor at Large
Cara Griffin
January/February 2011
THE FOOTWEAR EYE......................................................................................... 8
ASICS Adds To Its Campaign; Acorn Acquired; Royal Vegan Treat
SOCKS: A TALL ORDER....................................................................................14
Longer lengths and creative textiles take hosiery to new heights.
OFF & RUNNING................................................................................................18
Spmething “old” and something new. A sneak peek at Fall 2011 trail running footwear
lines reveals a continued focus on minimal design,
12
Doctors in the House................................................................................22
A Best Selling Author and a Trusted Name from the past are front and center with
two new shoe lines.
2011 Outlook.................................................................................................26
The 11 big issues everybody will be talking about in 2011.
Sanita Ditzel
Art Director
Francis Klaess
Contributors
Michael Jacobsen
Mike Kennedy
Nancy Ruhling
Tim Sitek
Emma Johnson
Publisher
Jeff Nott
jnott@formula4media.com
516-305-4711
Advertising
Beth Gordon
bgordon@formula4media.com
949-293-1378
Jeff Gruenhut
jgruenhut@formula4media.com
404-467-9980
Troy Leonard
tleonard@formula4media.com
352-624-1561
44
Sam Selvaggio
sselvaggio@formula4media.com
212-398-5021
Production
Michael Jacobsen
201-396-7005
mjacobsen@formula4media.com
The Boot Book..............................................................................................33
A Special Supplement to Footwear Insight.
58
FALL 2011 PREVIEW.........................................................................................44
For those of you who thought the boot trend had run its course, think again.
Boots will be back for at least one more go-round.
Subscriptions
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Wicked Woody
GAINING TRACTION..........................................................................................50
Wellness, Barefoot and Minimalism are all buzzwords. But brands are defying
classification with shoes that make customers feel better.
Lucky Charm.................................................................................................52
A family-owned chain in Ohio lives up to its name.
2010 SURVEY REFLECTS THE ‘NEW NORMAL’..............................................54
Chapter excerpt from the NSRA Business Performance Report 2010
What’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN............................................................................58
A cable TV series about the old days is inspiring new shoe collections.
On the cover: Alegria’s short black boot epitomizes the boot trend, which continues strong through Fall 2011 collections. Photo by Frank James
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TIME OUT | MARK SULLIVAN
Comparison Shopping
I
like to make comparisons between different types of businesses, especially retailers. For
example, what does a shoe store have in common with a restaurant, a hardware store or
even a music store?
Here are a few thoughts on the subject. The restaurant business is close to my heart as my
dad was a food service entrepreneur for many years. And my brother and I and our three sisters
all washed a few dishes and waited tables to help out. Today when I visit a restaurant, I’m very
aware of the service. I try not to be overly critical, but rather overly appreciative when it’s good.
My family had a meal in Washington over the Christmas holiday that was memorable not for
its food, but for the service. It was my eight-year-old daughter’s birthday and the staff fussed
over her like she was the Queen of England. We walked out of their feeling special, even though
the food was just okay. Like good retail salespeople, good waiters and waitresses let their
personalities shine through. In New York City, many of the best restaurant servers are actors.
They have the ability to turn on the charm,
play a role and are really good at smiling when
customers get out of line. Also, the best waiters
know the experience is about you, the customer,
and not them the struggling actor. With retail
sales associates, it should be the same way. It’s a
huge compliment when a customer shows up at
a restaurant and asks if there are seats in “Fred’s
section.” Your store will be very successful if
shoppers are building “preferred” relationships
with your sales staff.
As for shopping hardware stores, I’m not handy
at all. As an apartment dweller for most of my
adult life, my idea of home repair was to call the
super and give him a $20 bill when the work was
done. Now, as a homeowner, I often find myself
in hardware stores with an acute need and very
little knowledge. The folks in my local hardware
store have become valuable to me (and I expect
me to them). They sell me tools just like a good
shoe store sells tools to solve problems with
troubled feet. For my local Glen Rock Hardware,
it’s paint, rock salt and hammers. For shoe stores,
it’s orthotics, compression socks and scaphoid
pads. My neighborhood hardware store sees
himself as a convenient problem solver. Good
shoe stores, especially in the pedorthic category,
are the same breed.
My 11-year-old son has become increasingly
Question: What does a shoe store have
serious about the guitar. I love going into the
in common with a restaurant, a
music store with him because it’s all cool rock
hardware store or even a music store?
’n’ roll dudes hanging out, talking about music
and guitars. Most of the time, it’s great. Other times, not so much. There are times when these
dudes are a little too cool for school and my son and I are interruptions to their banter and jam
sessions. Sometimes, the same thing happens when I walk into a running store and the staff
immediately sizes me up as a middle-aged fitness runner and not a sub-three-hour marathoner.
That means I am ignored or they send the junior associate out to take care of me, while they
discuss their splits, their training routines and favorite new shoes amongst themselves.
Now I love going into music stores, outdoor specialty retailers and running shops because the
staffs are so into their respective activities. But I want them to share that passion with me, not
exclude me. If your staff does that with customers even once, shame on them. They are there to
be guides to the wonderful products and services in your shop, not gatekeepers.
I’m not the only one who compares experiences across retail. Consultants and analysts say
it is a major trend right now. Your customers are comparing your store, not just to other shoe
shopping experiences, but to what they encounter in The Apple Store, at American Girl store
and the luxury store in the mall.
Here’s hoping you do more than measure up. Here’s hoping you win the comparisons
every time.
The Footwear Eye
ASICS Adds to its Campaign
A
SICS new ad campaign,
which hits magazines and
TV screens this month,
is notable in that it features volleyball, tennis and other fitness
activities, quite a change for the
powerhouse running brand.
The company says its largest
campaign to date an attempt to
expand “beyond just running
into all areas of sport and incorporates footwear, accessories and apparel into one
united effort.”
The creative message in the campaign plays on the
concept of releasing negative energy and thoughts
to overcome obstacles that normally would hold one
back, a theme that was introduced in the 2010 marketing. It also integrates the founding philosophy and the
acronym for the ASICS brand
name — “Anima Sana In Corpore
Sano,” which is Latin for “A Sound
Mind in a Sound Body.”
Visually, the campaign shows
negative words such as “stress,”
“fear, doubt, and anxiety” shedding off the body during exercise,
exemplifying the power of sport
on the human spirit. The ads
seek to make an emotional connection with consumers by creating a feeling that the
minute the heart quickens whether engaging in running,
tennis, volleyball, or another fitness activity, those negative feelings just melt away.
U.S. Media placements will include campaign ESPN
and Comedy Central and in print publications such as
Men’s Health, Esquire, Fitness and Shape. l
sound mind sound body
asics.com
A Royal Vegan Treat
sport releases more than just sweat
A Wicked Woody
W
Royal Elastics has introduced what it is billing as a
“vegan” shoe collection that the company says doesn’t
“sacrifice animals or style.” The collection includes the
women’s Brother Roland in Vegan Ink, and the unisex
WellFrank in Vegan Burgundy.
icked Footwear has introduced a new nature-friendly
outdoor “Eco-Fashionable” footwear line for men
made from wood pulp. These shoes use recycled
wood pulp in a comfortable fitting basket weave pattern that
allows constant air movement inside the shoes. Wicked Hemp
shoes are made from carefully selected natural biodegradable materials uppers that are eco friendly with a low carbon
footprint. The shoes come in two styles, a slip on, The Wicked
Woody and lace up, The Wicked Pulp, which are both available
in black and brown. The shoes feature removable insoles that
tone your feet, with deep cushion and hidden EVA. This hybrid
style has a multi colored natural rubber outsole that is good for
urban and light trail use. l
Hush Puppies Offers Toning with a Twist
H
ush Puppies has a new
twist on the toning shoe—
literally. The company
says its new Twist2Tone Body
Shoe features “interval” toning,
which is achieved by twisting
the heel to adjust its height and
therefore activate muscles in a
different way.
In high intensity mode, walkers
work more by going “uphill” over the thicker part in
the middle of the shoe. This works more leg muscles
8 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
during each step as the wearer
keeps moving from heel to toe.
In low intensity mode, the
“biolevel” heel and toe design
encourages walking in a natural path. It helps align the foot
from landing on the outside of
the heel, to pushing it off on the
inside of the ball of the foot. The
result, Hush Puppies execs say,
is a smoother, more balanced walking motion that
uses less energy as the walker strides forward. l
Acorn
Acquired
totes»ISOTONER
Corp. has acquired
Acorn, the Mainebased slipper and
comfort-footwear
company.
The acquisition
now makes
totes»ISOTONER
a full-fledged
accessory brand
with umbrellas, hats,
gloves and shoes.
totes»ISOTONER
claims to be the
world’s largest
marketer of
umbrellas, gloves,
slippers, and other
weather-related
accessories.
totes»ISOTONER
has over 1200
employees and,
in addition to
Cincinnati, has
offices in New
York, Minneapolis,
Toronto, London,
Paris, Hong Kong
and Manila. In 1997,
totes and ISOTONER
merged to form the
totes»ISOTONER
Corporation. The
company is owned
by private equity firm
MidOcean Partners.
Acorn Products was
founded in 1976 with
the goal to bring
“Comfort on Earth” to
consumers who value
quality, workmanship,
and performance.
From the original
Slipper Sock to
technologically
advanced indoor/
outdoor footwear,
Acorn offers
consumers an
expansive and
varied collection of
indoor and outdoor
footwear appropriate
for all seasons.
The Footwear Eye
AMERICAN MADE: American brands find
their product in demand because of their
lifestyle and popular culture appeal.
An American Brand Goes Abroad
A
merican footwear brands have traditionally exported well.
California-based Bearpaw has dramatically grown its international
business over the past two years. Footwear Insight recently caught
up with the brand’s international VP John Larkin, who helped grow
And 1’s global business in the 1990s.
“There’s a big advantage to being a successful brand in the largest
consumer market in the world,” Larkin says. “In the rest of the world,
especially when it comes to pop culture, the U.S. is the trendsetter.
Luxury comes out of Milan, but if a popular brand or trend starts here,
people want a piece of it.”
“Here in the states, we see Bearpaw as a high value proposition brand,
and it’s that way internationally too, even though our prices are a little
higher internationally. Here, you can buy a pair of our boots for $65 to
$70, but in Europe because of duties and VAT (Value Added Tax) the
price may translate to as much as $110. In America, we’d choke at the
thought of a $100 pair of boots being a value, but in Europe it’s true.”
“Europeans are more particular about what they buy. They may have
two coats, one for dress and one for casual, while as Americans we have
three or four jackets.”
“We are up approximately 100 percent over 2009. In terms of our
most successful market position, we are the Number One sheepskin
boot brand in Korea. We have 13 Global Distribution partners, and one
pending partnership, covering the following markets: Canada, Mexico,
UK, Benelux, Norway/Sweden, Finland/Baltics, Germany/Austria/
Switzerland, Italy, Greece/Cyprus, Russia, Lebanon, China, Korea, Japan.
We have identified potential partners in France, Spain, Poland, and
Turkey, but we have not finalized our launch strategies yet. We won’t
launch until we are confident the brand plan makes sense.”
“Our strategic investments in both product and marketing have
enabled us to increase market share exponentially in a short period of
time, so we need to focus our capital resources on funding inventory
and product development. A good distributor provides exhaustive
market knowledge and relationships with little upfront investment
from the brand. Subsidiaries require large amounts of capital to
10 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
launch and compliance with foreign labor laws can be
extremely challenging. We prefer the ease of working with
distributors. As a brand, we are happy to sacrifice a few
margin points to maximize our exposure in a new market.
It comes down to a simple long term philosophy of doing
what is best for the brand versus a short term focus on
maximizing margins. We are privately owned, so we can
afford to take this long term approach.”
“Tastes vary by market, but generally during our
introduction phase, we do most of our International
volume with the same models we sell well in the states.
Due to differences in consumer philosophies, once we
establish a successful brand identity in a foreign market,
we are able to market more of our high price point
boutique styles and exclusive material products than
we do in the U.S.. For instance, our waterproof Dri hide
program was enthusiastically received internationally,
but the US market is proceeding more cautiously. Shorter
boots like the Demi boot does really well in Asia since the
girls are generally not as tall as they are in the U.S.”
“What we have learned from our international business
is that being a brand requires investment and strategy.
From our U.S. inception, we operated as a commodity;
consumers bought us for the prices we offered and didn’t
know our name. We were happy to sell product to all
accounts that were interested in buying Bearpaw. When I first spoke to
owner Tom Romeo three years ago, I told him that my goal was to help
make Bearpaw a long term proposition; a real brand. The easiest way to
demonstrate the merits of this approach was to build an International
model from the ground up. We were able to recruit talented distributors
and we focused on three brand principles: quality points of distribution,
pricing integrity, and zero inventory at the end of the season. Tom
has met our International distribution team, and he has witnessed the
success they have enjoyed positioning our brand. He now understands
what the potential is for the Bearpaw brand, so we are applying the same
strategic brand principles in the U.S. “At And 1, I worked with a great leader in the International
division. The global economy was booming, and basketball heavily
influenced style and pop culture when we started our International
business. We were constantly inundated with endless requests to
represent the brand. Today, due to the pursuit
There’s a
of more efficient supply chain management,
big advantage fewer distributors exist in the traditional target
to being a
markets like Japan and the mature economies
within the EU, so we have fewer potential
successful
partners to choose from.
brand in
In addition, distributor margin requirements
the largest
to
remain a viable business model have
consumer
increased,
putting added pressure on us to
market in
create a viable partnership. In theory, the
the world
international markets should be difficult to
access in a slow global economy, but tremendous U.S. success in the last
two years has made us a major factor in the industry. We are fortunate
that footwear veterans in foreign markets recognize us as a strong brand.
We are very well positioned financially, so even though the gross number
of potential distributors is much lower than it was 5-10 years ago, we still
make our partnership decisions by choosing the best ling term business
plan rather than being forced to choose a plan out of desperation to
generate revenue.” l
The Footwear Eye
WELL READ: All proceeds from the sales of
Elsey’s book will go to benefit Soles4Souls.
Writing the Book on Modern Not-for-Profits
M
ore than six years ago Wayne Elsey founded Souls4Soles, a
not-for-profit with the goal of making sure that everyone in the
world who needed shoes could get them. Elsey, a former shoe
exec, has run the not-for-profit like a business, a move that has rankled
some, but hasn’t caused Elsey much lost sleep. “I’m worried about
results and accomplishing our goals,” Elsey said recently. “People say
not-for-profits can’t market and can’t pay people well. I say that’s B.S.
We want to do the best job we can accomplishing our goals and that
means building our brand and hiring the best people we can.”
The plan is paying off for Soles4Souls. In 2010, the organization
collected $77 million in cash and donations, double what it received in
2009. For 2011, Elsey projects $100 million in cash and contributions, a
figure several times larger than any shoe business he’s ever run.
And as for lost sleep, Elsey apparently doesn’t need much. In his
spare time, he’s written a book, “Almost Isn’t Good Enough,” which
could very well serve as the “how to” guide for not-for-profits in the
future. The book discusses Elsey’s motivations and inspirations, but
also elaborates on his philosophy that not-for-profits should operate
like well-run businesses.
“Soles4Souls has a full-time in-house counsel who
makes sure we’re compliant with the 37 or 38 states
that require filings for not-for-profit organizations,”
Elsey says. “I’m sure a bunch of groups don’t do it, but
I want to insure we’re fully compliant.”
Elsey also believes charitable groups should not
be afraid to mix commerce and capitalism with their
efforts. In Haiti, S4S has set
up shoe stores, giving to
individuals at no charge 100
pairs of shoes to put them
in business. After that S4S
charges them $1 per pair of
shoes, its cost in getting them
there so they can continue
in business and make some
money. “We estimate our shoe
stores are the second largest
commerce in Haiti right now
(behind agriculture), and we’re
ideally helping people not just today, but to establish
something that will allow them to feed their families in
the future, too.”
Since launching S4S in 2005, Elsey said he’s had
to grow as a chief executive. He recently negotiated
the purchase of a 300,000-square-foot warehouse and
distribution facility for $2.1 million, a major savings for
the group that had looked at building a smaller facility,
which would have been nearly twice the cost. “This
experience has made me grow up as an executive,”
Elsey said, although there are still some CEO roles from
which he shies away.
“I don’t like public speaking, but I’m going to have
to get better at it.” Since publishing his book, Elsey
has been approached with dozens of speaking offers
ranging from $5000 to $75,000 a speech. “I’ve got to
learn how to do this,” says Elsey who has pledged to
donate all his speaking fees and proceeds from his
book sales to S4S.
Elsey and S4S self-published “Almost Isn’t
Good Enough,” and the book sold 2000 copies
in its first month at a time that is historically bad
for book sales. Elsey is already planning his next
book, which he’d like to get out by the end of
the year. “It’s about getting people engaged and
evangelistic, not in a religious way, but in a way
that’s fervent to a good cause.”
“Almost Isn’t Good Enough” can be purchased at
www.giveshoes.org or www.amazon.com l
In 2010, the
organization
collected
$77 million
in cash and
donations,
double what
it received
in 2009.
12 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
SOCKS
A Tall Order
Longer Lengths and Creative Textiles Take Hosiery to New Heights
By Suzanne Blecher
T
is the season for skiing, snowboarding and sitting by the fire
in a pair of cozy socks. While manufacturers are focusing on
warmth and comfort, queues for trends are also being taken
from fashion world. Fall 2010 runway shows were packed with kneehigh socks, which are slowly trickling into the mass market. Rag &
Bone paired a chunky gray number, folded just below the knee, with
short booties. Charlotte Ronson matched a black pair with tall, black
boots and Gwen Stefani’s line, L.A.M.B., complemented her knee-highs
with a super-short mini skirt.
As the runway extends to the streets and
slopes, brands are putting their own spin on the
trend. “You can wear over-the-calf socks skiing
or even après ski,” said Point6 founder Peter
Fox River Work
Duke. “They keep the draft down too.” The
CuffSock.
Point6 Women’s Storm Extra Light OTC is new
Above:
for fall and extends over the calf. The merino
Mountain Ski
wool sock is positioned as a casual offering with
and Snowboard
socks from
extra light cushioning under foot and taller silUnder Armour.
houettes and streamlined features.
Darn Tough Vermont is “answering pent
up demand for lifestyle socks that are tough
as nails” with a new collection, according to
firm president Ric Cabot. The company is
crafting tall hike, trek and ski socks for Fall
2011 with designs inspired by Poppy Gall
Design Studio. Gall, an experienced apparel
and textile designer, co-founded Isis, the first
women’s-only outdoor clothing brand in the
14 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
US. “Poppy is very avant-garde,” said Cabot. “This is a new way to
interpret her looks.” The True-Seamless Padded Ultra Light and
Padded Cushion socks feature an anatomically-placed shin cushion
for enhanced comfort and to defeat feet fatigue. The brand offers
and unconditional lifetime guarantee.
Taking advantage of the increased surface area on a tall sock to
maximize design, UnderArmour is splashing its name and logo all over
its Mountain Ski and Snowboard collection. The line was co-designed
with professional athletes and features dripping logos and vibrant
stripes in hues including Hollywood Pink, Peapod Green, Moon
Shadow Blue and School Bus Yellow. Cushioning
in the shin and foot of the sock protect avid riders
from rigid boots and absorb impact on the foot and
leg caused by downhill sports.
Goodhew is extending its knee-high fashion
offerings with the Eliza sock, which features a cuff
that can either be warn up over-the-knee or folded
down. It will be offered in thistle, teal, chocolate
and black for Fall 2011. Fox River Mills is putting a
functional take on folding with a CuffSox, which feature an acrylic second cuff that can be folded over
boots to keep debris and dirt out at work or on the
trails. The second cuff does not absorb moisture.
The remainder of the sock is crafted from Eco
Fibers, a blend of merino wool and recycled polyester from recycled water bottles.
A Wooly World and Beyond
While becoming increasingly fashionable, wool
has become a mainstay in the outdoor world for
SOCKS
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1. Balega’s Ultra features a seamless toe. 2. Balega’s Trail Buster. 3. Under Armour women’s sock by Gold Toe/Moretz. 4. Goodhew Eliza. 5. Point Six Ski sock. 6. Doctor
Specified’s Merino Wool Weekender. 7. Doctor Specified’s Mohair Crew. 8. Balega Lady Enduro. 9. Thorlo XSNB with ThorWick. 10. True-Seamless quarter length from Darn Tough.
its moisture management, temperature regulating and odor-resistant
properties. “The momentum behind Merino wool is still incredibly
strong and continues to gain velocity every year,” according to Molly
Cuffe, SmartWool brand communications. “We know from our consumer research that 96 percent of our consumers refer SmartWool to
their friends and family.”
Manufacturers are putting their own unique spin on the fiber to
gain traction in a growing market. Wigwam is launching Super Merino
Wool, which offers all of the benefits of wool but is also “sinfully soft”
and “does not itch when worn,” according to the firm. The “luxurious”
wool is sourced from U.S. wool ranchers. Wigwam’s Super Merino
Quarter, Hiking and Walker socks are all manufactured domestically.
FITS socks are also made in the U.S. and offer “the finest Merino wool
available on the market, 18.5 micron,” according to a firm representative. The company’s F3 technology prevents bouncing, hot spots and
friction. The new Feetures! Elite line also boasts the benefit of keeping
the foot in place with its Sock-Lock support system, where the foot
and sock become one.
Injinji is launching a new five-toe-sleeve merino wool mini-crew
Trail Toesock for the season. The sock combines NuWool, which
the firm calls its “sleek” and “super-soft” Merino wool, with a
patented toe design for climate-control and anti-friction. NuWool
naturally adjusts to the season to ensure toasty toes for winter and
cooled heels for summer.
Thorlo has revamped the majority of its ski collection to include
ThorWick, a yarn comprised of 100 percent recycled material, or
PET. With the firms’ dedication to the eco-friendly fiber, it produces 60 pecent fewer carbon dioxide emissions than normally created
producing virgin polyester staple. With one metric ton of recycled
staple, 872 kilograms of bottle waste are saved from going to landfill, according to Thorlo. The brand’s updated ski, snowboarding
and kids’ socks containing up to 50 pecent ThorWick fiber, as well
as its 84N Runner with Lycra FreshFX, debuts this month.
While it’s tough to deny that wool is the current cat’s meow of
the outdoor industry, Drymax president Gus Blythe maintains that
his brand offers something better. The firm’s new line of ski socks
with Drymax fibers offers a Dual Layer Sweat Removal System
where its inner layer lifts sweat off the skin and transfers it to the
socks’ outer later, so that the inner layer feels dry against the skin.
Drymax maintains that its fibers consume the lowest amount of heat
energy to produce, versus other man-made fibers, and are longer-lasting. Wool can cause injuries, blistering and chafing, and can wear out
during ultra distance endeavors like marathons, according to the firm.
Doctor Specified has recently expanded its line with some high
performance casual socks. The Merino wool Weekender and
Merino Rib styles along with the Mohair Crew come in a variety of
fashion colors and are a prefect addition to offer customers who
are looking for a high performance comfort sock. l
TRAIL
On the Tree: On the tree: Salomon XR Crossmax
Guidance CS (pewter), SRP $140; Salomon
SpikeCross 3 CS (black), SRP $160; Somnio
Westridge 2.0 (black/red), SRP $120; and New
Balance Minimus MT10 (red), SRP $100.
OFF&RUNNING
By Cara Griffin
S
omething “old” and something new. A sneak peek at Fall 2011
trail running footwear lines reveals a continued focus on minimal design, along with several new technology and new product
introductions from key running brands.
One example comes from Saucony, who is launching a ¾ cut trail running shoe for Fall 2011 called the ProGrid Outlaw. It’s the brand’s first ¾
cut lace-up high top. (The Saucony ProGrid Razor, introduced last year,
also features a high top cut of sorts—a soft shell waterproof eVent gator
that zips up to a three-quarter cut.)
Also of note for next Fall, K-Swiss will introduce the K-Swiss Blade-Max
Trail, which is the first trail running shoe from K-Swiss. Described as a
fully loaded, high-mileage trail runner, it combines a durable and supportive upper featuring Ion Mask water resistance and Seamfree technology
with a high-impact cushioning outsole.
18 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
Several brands are also bringing new waterproof breathable technology
to their running shoes for Fall 2011. For example, Brooks is introducing
Gore-Tex into some of its most popular styles, including the on- and offroad Adrenaline ASR and the neutral Ghost. “We always look for compelling ways to deliver on runners’ needs, and many of our customers
have asked us for performance footwear that can keep their feet dry and
comfortable in even the soggiest conditions,” says Andre Kriwet, director
of global footwear management for Brooks. “That’s why we’re excited to
bring Gore-Tex technology into two of our top-selling shoes. The durable
membrane is waterproof from the outside yet allows perspiration vapor
to escape from the inside for optimal performance on-the-go.”
Meanwhile, Montrail is bringing waterproof breathable OutDry technology into several of its footwear styles, including the Badrock trail runner.
With OutDry, the waterproof-breathable membrane is laminated directly
to the upper, resulting in what is described as “optimal fit, ultimate
breathability and 100 percent waterproof protection.” l
K-SWISS
SAUCONY
SAUCONY
The Blade-Max Trail is the first-ever trail running
shoe from K-Swiss. The fully loaded high-mileage
trail runner has a durable and supportive upper
featuring Ion Mask water resistance and
Seamfreetechnology. SRP $125
The ProGrid Outlaw is a 3/4 cut trail running shoe
suited for rugged mountainous terrain or muddy
plains. The low profile shoe offers protection from
the elements in a lightweight—11.5 oz. men’s;
10.1 oz. women’s—package. SRP $110
The ProGrid Razor 2.0 all-weather trail shoe
features internal event waterproof lining and a
built-in softshell gaiter with a YKK zipper. SRP $135
SALOMON
OBOZ
ASICS
The Spikecross 3 CS is a winter racing shoe with
metal spikes for grip on icy trail conditions.
It is water-resistant and features Quiklace and
Sensifit. It has a Mud&Snow outsole. SRP $160
The Oboz Lightning BDry features waterproofbreathable lining, and an airy, durable mesh upper
that lets feet breathe. A light welded structure
supports and holds the foot. SRP $130
The GEL-Trail Sensor 5 features a new
low-profile tooling, a new inner Lock Lacing System
and is lighter weight than its predecessor. SRP $120
BROOKS
INOV-8
VASQUE
The Adrenaline ASR GTX is the most versatile
all-terrain shoe that Brooks offers. It now has a
waterproof, breathable Gore-Tex lining, new for the
Fall 2011 version. SRP $120
The Terrafly 313 GTX is designed to stand up to the
rigor of both road and trail running. Using sticky
rubber it also provides reassuring grip in wet conditions. Featuring Gore-Tex technology. SRP $160
The Mindbender, built on a Perpetuum last and
weighing in at 9.9 ounces, fits a trail runner’s needs
by providing a lightweight, tough, sturdy shoe that
can go the distance. SRP $100
ASICS
ADIDAS
TECNICA
The GEL-Trabuco 14 features a new
upper design and an aggressive outsole
for traction. SRP $100.
The adiSTAR Raven 2M has a Zone TRAXION outsole
for natural foot-to-ground contact and FORMOTION
360 for cushioned protection. SRP $120
The Diablo Max for Fall 2011 is a carry-over of a new
Spring 2011 style. The shoe has had good sell-in for
Tecnica. Tecnica went max with this shoe. SRP $130
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 19
TRAIL
PUMA
ECCO
The water-repellent Puma Complete Trailfox 4 is
built low to the ground. Its outsole’s decoupled
heel construction lowers pronation velocity and
degree of pronation. SRP $100
The Ultra Terrain 3.0 GTX has a waterproof GoreTex lining, a multifunctional rubber outsole and an
anatomically shaped midsole. SRP $145
HI-TEC
AHNU
The V-Lite Infinity HPi has a breathable
synthetic upper, seamless upper zone
engineering and heat seal overlays for
lightweight support. SRP $145
The Rockridge has Numentum
Traverse Technology, and is designed as
an Outdoor Cross Trainer. SRP $99.95
MERRELL
MONTRAIL
From the barefoot running collection
By Merrell, the Women’s Lithe Glove.
SRP $125
The Badrock OutDry is a lightweight,
stability trail running shoe. OutDry technology offers what Montrail calls “true”
waterproof protection. SRP $125
PEARL IZUMU
NORTH FACE
The Peak II is a lightweight minimalist trail
shoe for racing and training and is a new
shoe from the The Peak. SRP $115
The DoubleTrack with X-Dome Cradle
Support is a cushioned trail shoe that
corrects overpronation. SRP $110
TRENDS
Doctors in the House
A best-selling author and a trusted name from the past are front and center with two new shoe lines
Brown Shoe Re-Imagines
the Dr. Scholl’s brand
D
r. Scholl really existed. He was, in fact,
William Mathias Scholl, the son of German
immigrants to Indiana in the late 1800s.
As a young man, he moved to Chicago, where
he worked at a shoe store called Ruppert’s. Not
surprisingly, young William Mathias found that
many of his customers suffered from medical
problems with their feet.
Scholl’s interest in shoes and feet grew. He
took night classes at the Illinois Medical School,
graduating in 1904 as podiatrist. After designing
and gaining a patent around a mechanical arch
support in 1904 called the Foot-Eazer, in 1906 he
started his own company, designing and overseeing the production of rubberless stockings,
anticorn pads, cushion insoles, exercise sandals,
orthopedic shoes, Foot Wings and Ball-O-Foot
Cushions.
By 1928, Scholl had opened his first shoe store
22 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
and taken the title of Doctor, for which of course
he was criticized. Scholl would eventually own
and operate more than 100 retail stores and in
the late 1950s, he invented the original toning
shoe, The Dr. Scholl’s “Original Exercise Sandal,”
which was worn by 1960s fashion icons, Twiggy
and Jean Shrimpton.
Today, almost 50 years later, Brown Shoe is
re-invigorating the Dr. Scholl’s brand, which
had become synonymous with comfort and
foot health. Brown has held the license for the
footwear line since 1991, but about a year ago
the company began conducting extensive consumer research on the brand. “The brand had
a great awareness level, like 97%,” said Maureen
McCann, VP wholesale marketing at Brown. “And
there was a feeling of trust in Dr. Scholl’s expertise as it related to comfort and shoes that were
better for you.”
The research confirmed what Brown executives had believed: that they had the rights to a
powerful wellness brand at a time when wellness
was important to consumers. But the company
didn’t want to be pigeonholed as making medical product. Rather they had to “re-imagine”
the brand for today’s consumer, according to
McCann.
“We Identified a Doctor Scholl’s customer,”
McCann says. “They were busy and involved
in life, and needed shoes that could take them
anywhere.”
Brown came up with a product positioning of
“relaxed classics,” according to Keith Duplain,
director of marketing for the brand. The company came up with seven filters or attributes
that product had to meet.
1. Visible comfort and foot health.
2. Designed from inside out.
3. Crafted detail.
4. Rich warm colors
5. Unexpected delight
6. Use of Natural materials
7. And Integrated comfort and style for multifaceted life.
The resulting collection for men and women
includes athletic styles, boots, outdoor and
casual styles and, of course, sandals. Brown
execs say the line will be sold in better channels
including specialty, independents, department stores
and select mid-tier accounts, with a retail price range
of $40-$80. The line has also been re-branded as Dr.
Scholl’s Shoes with a new logo and re-packaged with a
newly designed line of boxes and hangtags. The boxes
feature a number of different icons which identify the
performance features of the shoes. Some of the different icons are: Waterproof, Shock Absorption, Balanced
Stability, Breathable and Pressure Relief. The icons that
correspond with the performance features of the shoes
appear on the outside of the box.
Brown began showing the new Dr. Scholl’s line to
retailers last summer and made its first shipments
in December. “When consumers hear the name Dr.
Scholl’s, they have an expectation of comfort and technology,” says McCann. “We believe we are delivering
that in a very contemporary way.”
Dr. Weil’s Vasyli Line
M
illions follow his advice on all things healthrelated. Whether snatching up his books – 10
million copies sold and climbing – or logging
on to his Web site – averaging 45,000 visitors per day – or
watching him on shows such as Oprah, Today or Larry
King, Dr. Andrew Weil has the attention of millions of
loyalists who adhere to his holistic approach to health.
Heck, more than 600 physicians have been trained at
the Arizona Center for Integrative Medicine through a
fellowship program created by Dr. Weil. These disciples
are spreading his healing-oriented approach to health
care that encompasses body, mind, and spirit.
Along the way, his powerful name has been licensed
for a whole line of products geared to a healthier lifestyle: vitamins and supplements, skin-care products,
premium pet food and teas, baby foods, olive oil and
more. It was only a matter of time that this vocal skeptic
of toning shoes would partner with a shoe company.
Now, millions of his followers can literally walk in his
shoes – Dr. Andrew Weil Integrative Footwear.
Launched last fall, Dr. Weil worked with Vasyli, a
well-respected name in both orthotics and footwear,
to develop men’s and women’s sandals, as well as
women’s closed-toe walking shoes that promote health
and wellness. As Dr. Weil notes, “Our feet are our body’s
connection to the earth. Everything from the ground up
really depends on our feet.”
Make no mistake, Dr. Weil played a role in the line’s
development, says Dan Bazinet, general manager of the
brand. “He’s actively involved in the process. He’s not
a figurehead.”
The original fall line featured five styles, each with
Aided Motion System. This combines two foot bed technologies for balance and alignment from the ground up.
The 1st Ray Flexor Zone assists forefoot mobility and
gait efficiency. The Tri-Planar Motion Control foot bed
aids rear foot alignment and function.
“Our technology is accepted by the APMA (American
Podiatric Medical Association),” Bazinet says. “We
are taking advanced technologies developed from our
Vasyli medical group and making them work for the
everyday Dr. Weil consumer. Dr. Weil’s Integrative philosophy is embedded into our development process.
We are integrating smart design, proven technologies,
biomechanics, shoe constructions and advance materials into our footwear.”
The end result is a line that promotes an active lifestyle by outfitting consumers with shoes that feel good
and encourage walking without pain.
Retailers did quite well with the initial test line,
Bazinet says. It sold through in better department
stores, full-line comfort independent retailers, and specialty comfort and wellness catalog retailers, and online
merchants.
As general manager, Bazinet knows a thing or two
about footwear. Before taking charge of the Dr. Weil line,
he served as CEO of Birkenstock, a line well known for
its comfort and timeless style.
He also owned 35 shoe stores so he understands the
inner workings of retail and the challenge of picking the
right horse to ride to keep customers coming back. The
formula for retail success in a growing selection of comfort footwear isn’t easy but can be achieved through
some basic principles, he notes.
“Look at the long view,” he advises retailers weighing their options. “Is the technology credible? Can the
brand pique interests and drive consumers to investigate the details of the wellness story? Would the consumer want to try on a pair and if happy come back to
buy a second pair? Can you be supported by the brand
with POP, good marketing, customer service, inventory,
reasonable margins - all those things in a retail-vendor
relationship that formulate a sustainable and profitable
business model?”
He firmly believes the Dr. Weil line offers all of the
above, including a dedicated Web site with training
modules for retail staff and a retailer tool kit full of
promotional materials. Plus, it comes with the endorsement of the guru of wellness.
“Dr. Weil comes with an already developed constituency of eight million loyalists who are active and
engaged in other Dr. Weil Lifestyle brands,” Bazinet
notes. Another 70 million people are aware of Dr. Weil.
“We are dialing into this established base and hope
to facilitate their footwear needs and enable or complement their healthy lifestyles,” Bazinet says. “We hope
to drive this attentive audience into the stores to learn
more about Dr. Weil Integrative Footwear.”
Nearly 70 percent of that Dr. Weil audience is female.
“We know her lifestyle, including extracurricular activities,” Bazinet adds.
With its initial success and this understanding, the
line will be expanded this coming fall, including a
women’s closed casual collection. Bazinet believes the
brand has legs to move into other categories down the
road. “We can extend this line to say boots. Our brand
can expand.”
The Dr. Weil line also expands Vasyli’s presence in
the footwear market. Its line of Orthaheel footwear (see
related story on page 51) and orthotics have long been
prominent overseas, with deep roots in Australia – home
base of world renowned podiatrist and founder Phillip J.
Vasyli – and the United Kingdom. The Orthaheel line of
footwear came to the United States in 2008.
But the Dr. Weil line complements rather than competes with its sister brand, Bazinet says. “We would not
launch a second brand to occupy the same space,” he
notes. Dr. Weil targets different distribution channels,
with higher price points, a more contemporary yet not
fashion-oriented look, and a different combination of
technologies.
Certainly the Dr. Weil name adds more to the brand,
moving beyond just footwear into the very heady business of a lifestyle of wellness.
“We believe that Dr. Weil is the foremost leading
authority when it comes to wellness,” Bazinet says. And
wellness never goes out of style. l
Dr. Weil’s Blues sandal for women
Dr. Weil Wave Flip Flop
Dr. Scholl’s Joshua
Dr. Scholl’s Larkin
Dr. Scholl’s Strolle
Dr. Scholl’s Wren
Dr. Scholl’s Brannon
Dr. Scholl’s Crissy
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 23
with more
content than ever
With More brands
than Ever
THIS YEAR:
New Brands include
exhibitors such as:
Ahnu
Alegria
Ara
Birkis
Birkenstock
Goodhew
Orthaheel
RICS Software
Tekscan
Ugg
Wenger
® a registered trademark of The Footwear Event
And Introducing
Running University:
a big-picture look at
the most influential
category in footwear.
• Exclusive New
Research on The
Buying Behavior
of Runners.
• Good Form Running
Seminar and
Demonstration
The Footwear Event
June 27-29, 2011
The Navy Pier and W Lakeshore Hotel Chicago
WITH RECOGNITION OF...
TFE Schedule at a Glance
Monday, June 27, 2011
Lunch at noon
Conference Starts
at 1 p.m.
Nighttime networking
activity
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
8:00 a.m.
Continental Breakfast
8:30-10:00 a.m.
Conference Sessions
10:00-5:00 p.m.
Expo Hours with
free lunch
6:30 p.m.
Cocktail Reception
8:00 p.m.
Art of Retail Awards
and Dinner
River East Arts Center
Wednesday, June 29th
8:00 a.m.
Continental Breakfast
8:30-10:00 a.m.
Conference Sessions
2011 outlook
1. Margins
For the
most part
in the shoe
business,
if a product
got hot,
retailers
would
re-order,
vendors
would build
more and
everybody
was happy.
Rising prices and a continuing
tough economic market in the
U.S. will put incredible pressure
on brands and retailers to sacrifice margins on product. That’s
the easy fix and many retailers
and vendors have been doing
that since the economy softened in 2008. But the reduced
margins are having an impact.
Retailers have reduced staff and
marketing. Vendors have cut
back on product development,
R&D and marketing. At a time
when the consumer is demanding innovation and value, many
brands are handicapping their
ability to deliver that. Retailers
are also under tremendous pressure to deliver a quality in-store
experience, first-rate customer
service and promote their stores
against competitors and other
channels of distribution. The
burning issue on margins for 2011
is no longer how can stores do
more while working on tighter
margins, but how they can boost
margins on individual sales and
in their store overall.
26 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
2. Sourcing in China
3. Increased Pricing
This could actually be items
one through 11, as what happens
in China in 2011 will impact just
about every aspect of the shoe
business, starting with product
itself. Prices on shoes made in
China are rising for all the reasons you have read about: labor
shortages, the growing strength
of the Chinese currency and
growth in that country’s domestic consumer market. To cope
with all that, many companies are
taking money out of their product to hit a certain price point.
Some of this value engineering
is simple, a bauble here and a
buckle there and some is a little
more significant. Shifting to lower
grade leathers can save a few
bucks on a pair of shoes, but will
it make consumers keep their
wallets holstered when shopping
this year. It has also become
increasingly difficult for retailers to chase hot items. For the
most part in the shoe business,
if a product got hot, retailers
would re-order, vendors would
build more and everybody was
happy. Today, that’s not so easily
done. Look at the issues Vibram
FiveFingers has had meeting
demand. But VFF has also shown
that not being able to keep up is
not such a bad thing. The company has kept its distribution tight,
its prices stable and its margins
high. It’s the kind of product that
drives consumers into stores and
that’s good for everyone.
The main reason for price
increases has to do with what’s
happening in China. Athletic
companies in particular have
been holding the line on prices
but the damn is due to break
with shoes that will hit retail
shelves for the fall selling season.
Major brands have indicated
that prices could jump as much
as 20 percent on select styles
and an average of 12 percent
across the board. The increase
has been a long time coming.
Because of the incredible supply chain infrastructure that has
been created in China over the
past 20 years, pricing on shoes
and apparel has remained an
incredible value when compared
to prices for just about every
other consumer product. And
while on an intellectual level, that
will still remain true, consumers may suffer a sticker shock
when they see their favorite
athletic shoe priced at $115 this
fall when it was $100 last year.
The burden for explaining that
extra $15 will most likely fall
on retailers. You can bet damn
sure that consumers don’t give
a damn about what’s happening
in China. Retailers are going to
have to present the product in
the best light possible and especially on performance product,
sell the features and benefits in
the hopes that the consumer still
sees $115 as a good value in the
scheme of things.
4. The Comeback of
Department Stores?
In case you haven’t been
paying attention, department
stores actually seem to be getting their acts together. The
Macy’s re-organization finally
seems to be settling in and the
net result will be a company
with a clearer strategy than
we’ve seen in years and a fighting chance to execute it. At the
mid-tier Kohl’s has been killing
it for the past several years
with a mix of house labels and
brand partnerships that offer a
compelling product mix at the
right price points. Kohl’s has
also benefitted from consumers trading down from premium channels and being pleasantly surprised but what they
have found. Talk to any consumer who shops Kohl’s for
the first time and chances are
they will say something like “It
was nicer than I thought.” If
Kohl’s ever managed to steal
Target’s marketing team, a
whole bunch of retailers could
be in trouble.
Department stores
actually seem to
be getting their
acts together.
Phones or “mobile
devices” are the
next platform to be
exploited for
retail gain.
5. New Retail Formats
There’s a new line of thinking
among the giants of retailing:
Smaller is better. Or at least
worth considering. The Sports
Authority loves its new SA Elite
concept and will most likely ramp
up expansion quicker than originally planned. Target has smaller
urban stores planned for Los
Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle,
Boston, Chicago and New York.
And Wal-Mart will roll out its
smaller stores in 2011 and has
shown the ability to move quickly
if the stores perform as anticipated. The continuing softness
in the commercial real estate
market has opened the door for
well-financed retailers to take
advantage of better lease deals
and move into locations where
productive stores will be quite
profitable. Smaller stores will
feature tighter merchandise and
brand assortments. In the case of
the new SA Elite stores, the environments look better and also
give the retailer the opportunity
to improve customer service to
a level that is required to seller
higher-priced product. If TSA and
Wal-Mart are successful (and the
betting money here says they will
be), expect other big box stores
to follow their lead.
6. Mobile Shopping Technology
Facebook and social networking were the technology
topic of 2010. For the New Year, mobile shopping technology is what tech savvy retailers are discussing. Phones or
“mobile devices” are the next platform to be exploited for
retail gain. It’s no longer home shopping, but phone shopping where brands and retailers will start to chase consumer dollars. Mobile shopping apps will work in a number of ways. Consumers can, of course, buy stuff by using
their phones as mini-computers. But they can also use
their Mobiles as scanners to compare price and look for
product and soon will be able to use them as cash cards
to make transactions in stores.
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 27
2011 outlook
8. The In-Store Experience
Berluti Shoes
7. The New Luxury
Even if you are not convinced that the recession is
over, you should be convinced that wealthy folks still
have money and are still spending it. There are 1.2 million
households with a net worth of over $5 million in the U.S.,
up from 300,000 in 1983. Real household income for the
top 20% of households is up 70% in the last 20 years.
215 million people in this country are now over 50-yearsold and baby boomers will start to turn 65 in 2011. As a
result, $12 trillion in inheritance will change hands in the
next 20 years. The top 5% are richer, too. In the early
1980s the top five percent accounted for 16% of the
income earned. Today they account for 27%. The rich
are definitely getting richer. And brands are cashing
in. In the automotive sector, Cadillac has done a great
job of transforming into a hot contemporary luxury
brand. Closer to home, Coach has set a high bar for other
footwear and accessory brands to emulate. In 2011, this
customer will continue to spend in a quiet classy way.
From the smallest specialty
store to the largest of mass merchants, every retailer we talk to is
focused on improving the in-store
experience for shoppers. That
extends to better signage and displays, better staffing and of course,
better customer service. Talking
about the In Store Experience
is the new “retail patriotism.”
Everybody supports the idea with
all their heart. But how you bring it
to life in your store is a major challenge, especially in lieu of the fact
that web merchants like Zappos
have created an excellent online
shopping experience. Retailers
of all sizes have their hands full
delivering quality customer service. With margins under great
pressure (see topic number three),
stores are hard-pressed to hire
and retain great staffers and keep
from going broke. Knowledgeable
customer service is still the number one competitive advantage
that specialty stores have over
department stores and the family
shoe channels. Despite the margin
pressures, specialty stores cannot
afford to give up that advantage
and smarter stores are figuring out
ways to keep quality staffers and
invest in training. Online training
companies like 3Point5 are making
inroads with independent footwear
stores, and brands are investing
more money in supporting sales
training and in-store support.
10. Where Will all the Toning Dollars Go?
The toning story category has really focused on three brands over the past two years: Skechers
Shape-Ups, Reebok EasyTone and MBT. Skechers’ Shape-Ups dominated the retail open-to-buy in this
category over the past two years and the company is doing its best to hold on to its market position
with product extensions like the Resistance Runner. Reebok has rolled
out numerous EasyTone brand expansions, and MBT has re-organized
and retrenched focusing on the high-end specialty business. Retailers
tell Footwear Insight that many of the trend-oriented customers who
bought a pair or two of toning shoes, are ready to move on to the
next new thing. Some will stick with the brand extensions, others
will move on to wellness product or other athletically-inspired
styles. In sports stores, minimal running product is getting a lot
of attention. It’s lightweight, looks good and its price points
make it perfect for the casual athlete, who was drawn
to toning. Toning shoes have been a big wake-up to
retailers and have drawn consumers back into
athletic departments. The toning
category also has consumers
believing that shoes can
help them feel better,
a big win for the entire
shoe business. How this
category plays out in 2011
will have a big say in the overall
health of the shoe business.
28 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
9. House Brands for
Big Boxes
One way the big boxes have
exercised their clout is to
develop strong house brand
programs like Target’s Converse
One Star, Kohl’s Simply Vera
by Vera Wang and the new
K-mart and Sears program with
Everlast. These programs give
the retailers the credibility of
major brand names already recognized by the consumer and
the ability to create product
that fits their pricing model.
Brands get the benefit of having their cake and eating it,
too. Most of these brands will
continue to do business outside
the mass channels with core
product and some like Converse
have been extremely successful
doing both.
11. The Continuing
Decline of Malls
52% of all brick and mortar
shoppers visited malls in 2010,
down from 55% in 2009. Malls
are not going to dry up and
go away. In fact, you could
argue that A-level malls are
more valuable than ever. But
beyond the Top 100 malls in
the country, malls are being
redefined in every way imaginable. Old reliable anchor
stores are just old and no longer reliable traffic draws for
consumers or lures to attract
other stores. Major stores are
closing underperforming units,
and even those in expansion
mode are extremely selective
about where they sign leases.
Mall developers need to
develop a 21st Century model
and soon that is attractive to
young shoppers and offers an
exciting mix of stores and services and allows retailers to
make money. If they don’t figure that out soon, next year’s
mall visit number will drop to
less than 50% for sure. l
THE BOOT BOOK
A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
American Work Ethic
It’s hardly surprising that the traits that make these
uber-workers so valuable – quality, versatility and durability – are
the same ones that employers prize in their wearers. The brands
featured in this edition of The Boot Book have reported that sales
are robust and are on the rise. Consumers still are being careful
with every dollar, of course, which is precisely why the right work
boots work for them.
These days, work boots, with all their high-tech tools, are
expected to be the workhorses of the wardrobe that can be
worn from workweek through weekend. And these oneboot-for-all-occasions are expected to last for several
seasons.
“Consumers are seeking better quality and more
reputable brands,” says Jason Stadler, marketing
manager of Asolo USA. “They recognize that while
they may be spending more money than they’d
intended, they know that if they amortize the purchase,
it make more sense.”
In addition to new styles and features, 2011 brings
a couple of new players to the workforce. The outdoor
company Keen marks its entry into the footwear field with
an industrial/work boot, and TrekSta, which is sold around the
world, debuts in the North American market with a high-tech
hiker. So it seems that in 2011 the bottom line is: Build the
work boot right, price it right and they will keep buying.
RJ Colt’s Marine, RJ Colt’s Marine, a men’s casual work boot,
goes from workweek to weekend without a hitch. The lace-up
leather and waxed-canvas boot has a rubber outsole with a lug
tread, a san crispino welt for added comfort and durability.
What really works in this economy? Work boots that work overtime without complaint.
THE BOOT BOOK
Thumbs and Toes Up
> Boots that are made to last
2
1
3
4
1. LaCrosse’s Adamas HD, which has a
steel toe that meets safety standards,
is waterproof, oil- and slip-resistant
and has four layers of cushioning for
all-day comfort.
“Everyone wants athletically inspired
work boots, and the Adamas HD
addresses this,” says Stephanie
Murphy, brand manager.
The Adamas HD has a Hyper-Dri lining, a full-grain upper leather, a diamond-plated abrasion-resistant rubber
toe and heel, a 90-degree Quad Impact
outsole, a removable polyurethane footbed, a nylon shank and a new configuration of the brand’s Quad Comfort technology for superior underfoot cushioning.
2. Bogs Footwear’s Charlot, a lifestyle
all-purpose boot, brightens every rainy
and sunny day by keeping feet dry in high
style. Charlot, which is available in red,
violet, blue, green or black, is a crossover
that is equally at home standing on its
feet all day or cooling its heels at a kids’
soccer game.
Made of 100 percent rubber, it has a
ventilated Airmesh lining, a contoured
insole, an air-balancing system and
a seamless construction with fourway stretch neoprene that doesn’t
require any breaking in.
“We have the technology, durability and Euro comfort that set
A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
up apart from other brands,” says Jillian
Ritchie, marketing manager.
3. Lowa’s Fiemme GTX, a cold-weather
boot that has a vice grip on snow
and ice, is as light as a snowflake.
Constructed of split leather and
Cordura, it has a Gore-Tex Partalana
fleece lining. Its monowrap construction, which allows Lowa to inject midsole polyurethane construction around
the sides, wraps the foot in a lightweight and supportive frame.
The sole is embedded into the polyurethane midsole, providing maximum
grip on snow and ice. The soft rubber blend along with proprietary textile
increases the boot’s grip by up to 32
percent over other kinds of material
combinations. The stud pattern follows
the natural line of foot motion so that
there’s always one stud in contact with
the ground during roll-off motion. “Sales have definitely increased,” says
Ingrid Niehaus, public relations director,
“because we make quality, Europeanproduced boots that do not scrimp on
features and offer unsurpassed value.”
4. Dickies’ Trader, a six-inch light-industrial work boot sans toe cap, steps up the
style with retro details, including grainy
leather, tone-on-tone logos and vintage
hardware along the eyelets.
THE BOOT BOOK
Instead of the typical Goodyear welt, the
Trader’s outsole has an injected welt that
increases its flexibility, decreases the boot’s
weight and improves waterproofing. It also
has many of the technical features typical
of work boots, including a moisture-wicking
fabric lining, a removable memory-foam
insole and a lightweight oil-resistant ethyl
vinyl acetate wedge outsole.
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5. Blundstone’s No. 560 Warm and Dry,
a waterproof casual work boot, puts a priority on comfort.
The unisex laceless boot with the pull-on
twin gore, available in walnut and black, has
Thinsulate lining, waterproof leather and an
all-natural Australian shearling footbed for
warmth and comfort.
“It’s the first truly all-waterproof
boot from Blundstone,” says Tim Engel,
VP-sales for U.S. distributor Ralph
Libonati Co.
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6. Florsheim’s Work Classic Six-inch
Boot, one of the new additions to the line,
features Goodyear welt construction with a
steel toe on top of a durable Florsheim dualdensity polyurethane outsole. Inside, there’s
moisture-wicking nylon mesh and a removable ethyl vinyl acetate cushion insert with a
sponge rubber heel wedge. The boots come
in D and EEE widths.
“These boots are the work horses of the
industry,” says Doug Sproull, corporate VPproduct development at Warson Brands.
“They’re super comfortable and last forever,
two qualities that make them a great value
for the price. We’ve also added more color
and style options.”
7. Harley-Davidson Footwear’s Virgo Steel
Toe Hiker, from the Tough Comfort Series,
is a rugged multipurpose boot that offers
great style for work and play.
With a full-grain leather upper, a removable Ortholite cushion sock lining, abrasionresistant rubber outsole, new welt construction with cement forepart and two-part construction for durability and comfort, it comes
in medium and wide sizes.
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8.The Frye Co.’s Locke Lace Up, a men’s
casual crepe-bottom, round-toe boot, works
well on dress-down Fridays at the office and
at week-round outdoor activities.
The Goodyear-welted boot is made of a
reverse Italian suede that is soft, comfortable, wears well and improves with age.
“The boot is best worn with
denim,” says Michael Petry,
VP-design. “Few things
are more American than
denim worn with suede
crepe-bottom boots like
the Locke Lace Up. Its atten-
A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
tion to detail and handwork distinguish it.”
9. Chippewa Boots’ Classics Collection,
Style No. 20067, a six-inch soft-toe lace-up
everyday boot in tan rodeo leather, is waterproof, has a removable cushion orthotic and
meets American Society for Testing and
Materials electrical hazard standards. It features a Goodyear leather welt construction,
a Vibram Stockbridge outsole and 5 iron
Texon insole.
“Chippewa features the best of class
craftsmanship and unrivaled durability and
comfort with a competitive price,” says Clark
Perkins, brand manager. “And we do all this
within American factories.”
The No. 20067 places a priority on pairing
fashion and durability. “Chippewa Classics
are extremely versatile and that’s why, in
spite of the current uneven economy, they
have really sold well,” Perkins says.
10. Bates Footwear’s C3 eight-inch sidezip work boot is one of the newer additions
to the brand’s portfolio of military and uniform footwear. It has a host of technological
features, notably a patented Cross Channel
Circulation system that keeps feet cooler
and more comfortable.
The boot, which also comes in an eightinch women’s version and a six-inch men’s
version, has a cushioned ethyl vinyl acetate
midsole, a moisture-wicking lining, a flexible
cement construction, a lightweight removable insole, a leather and nylon upper and a
rubber outsole.
“The C3 boot is the only one like it in
the uniform market,” says sales director
Andrew Fowler. “Our patented technology
delivers active ventilation. The boot is lightweight and durable, and it’s slip-resistant.”
“While we’ve added many fashion design
elements, including rich leather color combinations, contrast stitching and proprietary
Dickies outsole designs, we also have
increased the quality to ensure that the
boots perform as well as they look,” says
Jeff Huckle, project manager.
11. Irish Setter’s new 17-inch RutMaster
and SwampGhost rubber hunting boots
showcase the ExoFlex performance system
that provides the perfect fit. A panel in the
back of the boot shaft expands to let the foot
glide in then contracts to cradle the foot.
“This is a game changer for rubber
boots,” says Kyle Rackiewicz, product
manager. Built on a slim profile, the waterproof, scent-proof men’s boots feature a
performance-enhancing rocker mud-claw
sole whose mud-releasing, serrated cleats
provide traction on hills.
They are available in insulated and noninsulated versions. The RutMaster has an
adjustable strap to accommodate a range
THE BOOT BOOK
of calf sizes, and the SwampGhost comes
with a fold-down shaft. Both are available
in half sizes.
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12. Kodiak’s Rebel, a versatile work boot
with a black or smoke Nubuck or smooth
leather upper, is available in six-inch and
eight-inch styles.
The boot, certified Grade 1 by the CSA,
include a high-frequency molded leather
heel guard and stability strap; a reinforced
rubber bottom eyestay; an abrasion-resistant rubber toe guard; a patented padded
anatomical tongue; an anatomical widefitting last, a removable anti-fatigue footbed
with energy transfer heel and forefoot pods;
a lightweight direct-injected polyurethane
midsole and a slip-resistant tread design
and thermoplastic polyurethane outsole.
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13. Keen, the outdoor company, dips its
toes into the outdoor footwear industry with
its new Keen Utility collection.
Pittsburgh, which was inspired by the
steelworkers of that city, is a slip- and oilresistant work/industrial and work/service
boot that is available in a six-inch version as
well as a low, athletic style.
“We’ve noticed that there is a general
lack of anything new in the industrial lineup,” says sales manager Kevin Kious. “We
designed a special last with a narrower heal
and broader forefoot for a hiking boot-like
fit. And we designed a new asymmetrical,
anatomically correct left and right steel toe
specifically for the last that is more comfortable, better fitting and has less bulk than
the average steel-toe boot.”
The boot, made of a waterproof Nubuck
leather upper, has a classic Keen wraprubber toe, a waterproof, breathable
membrane and a removable footbed that
supports the arch.
14. Hi-Tec’s V-Lite Altitude Max WPi, a
light hiking/work boot, is a crossover that
fits the feet of the blue-collar worker as well
as the avid adventurer.
The leather-upper boot features ionmask waterproof technology, a moisturewicking lining, rustproof hardware, a
lightweight compression-molded ethyl vinyl
acetate midsole and a Vibram outsole. All this
and it still weighs in at only 20.1 ounces.
“The Hi-Tec customer is looking for a boot
that works and plays well,” says PR manager
Dayna Panales. “The V-Lite offers the latest
technology, the strength to withstand some
abuse and all at a great retail price — $110.
It translates value to performance.”
15. Justin Original Workboots’
J- Max, steel-toe and non-steeltoe lace-up and pull-on boots
handcrafted in America, are
A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
designed to work hard for the working man.
“This collection takes all of the industryleading features of our original Double
Comfort system and adds newer, updated
technology,” says brand manager Brandon
Barker. “J-Max is designed to lead the market with unparalleled performance, comfort
and durability.”
Available in two leathers – rugged tan
gaucho and rugged chocolate gaucho
– the J-Max boots’ new Double Comfortenhanced features include a removable
orthotic that uses gel technology, a mesh
footbed spacer, a padded collar and tongue
and Dri-Lex lining to keep feet dry. Ladder
grips and elastomer pads provide extra
traction and stop slipping.
The brand also is socially conscious: A
portion of the proceeds go to Camp Patriot,
a group that helps disabled veterans.
16. Justin Boot Co.’s Stampede
Collection Tekno Crepe, which has the
styling of a traditional Western boot, is
as comfortable in the stirrups as it is out
of them.
“We’re a 130-year-old brand that incorporates the knowledge, history and tradition
of boot-making with the newest technologies,” says Louis Russo, brand manager.
“Our mission is to be the complete footwear
solution for the Western lifestyle consumer.”
Made of dark brown rawhide leather with
a perforated saddle vamp, traditional round
toe and durable double-stitch welt, the boot
is very comfortable, lightweight, flexible
and stylish. It features the patented J-Flex
Comfort System and a removable orthotic
insert and has a lateral stabilization design
and oil-resisting Tekno Crepe.
17. Kamik’s Scarlet, which comes in
burgundy, black, dark brown and white,
gives the traditional pac-style boot a
high-fashion makeover that retains all the
high-tech features.
The boot, made of quilted synthetic
patent leather and suede, has a synthetic
shearling snow collar, a Thinsulate foam
lining that wicks moisture, a rustproof lacing system, an antibacterial footbed and
a Vulcanized rubber bottom.
“The Scarlet has a sleeker more modern silhouette that was designed to turn
heads with its synthetic quilted patent
leather upper,” says Martina Cry, senior
product manager. “It is comfort rated to
minus 25 degrees.”
Kamik is introducing several new pac
boot styles this season.
18. Magnum USA’s Work Pro Ultra WPi
CT, a safety/work boot with a tumbledleather upper, uses the same technology in
the midsole/outsole as a running shoe.
The boot is equipped with a comfortably
wide toe box, a lightweight heavy-duty
composite toe that meets industry standards, ion-mask technology that repels
water, blood pathogens and chemicals, a
contoured sock liner with memory foam,
a moisture-wicking synthetic lining, a
compression-molded ethyl vinyl acetate
midsole that gives extra cushioning and a
high-traction carbon rubber outsole.
“Comfort and the ion-mask technology are the main benefits of the Work Pro
Ultra,” says Alexis Nascimento, public relations/social media manager for the brand.
“Unlike membrane technologies, ion-mask
is not a physical barrier so it delivers the full
natural air flow as well as reducing unnecessary weight.”
19. Michelin’s LTX MS/2, an industrial
work boot, has an oil- and slip-resistant
outsole that was inspired by Michelin’s LTX
MS/2 tire tread.
Lightweight, flexible and waterproof, it
features a removable ethyl vinyl acetate
Michelin footbed, a breathable collar, a
rubber-textured heel and toe guard and an
optional protective steel toe and met guard.
“Safety directors are becoming more
active in specifying purpose-driven footwear beyond the minimum OSHA standards this past year,” says Jared Oviatt,
VP-sales, work division. “As a result, we
have had to increase our offering to meet
this growing need.”
20. Mountrek’s Brook Path Mid, a women’s backpacking boot available in brown,
black and red, is designed for rugged terrain.
Waterproof and insulated, it features
a high-abrasion mudguard, dual-density
molded footbed, an ethyl vinyl acetate
insole, an internal shank that stabilizes the
foot, an internal protective bottom plate and
a multi-directional lug outsole that provides
added traction.
“It’s great for inclines and gives additional resistance for declines,” says
Robert Gillingham, president of Mountrek
and RJ Colt. “And the high-density molded heel cup provides enhanced stability
and motion control.”
21. Salomon’s Quest 4D GTX, a lightweight hiking boot, is built with the performance features of a trail runner and the
support of a backpacking boot.
Designed in response to industry demand
for a more technical boot, the Quest
includes Salomon’s trail-running technologies, notably a 4D Advanced Chassis,
GORE-TEX waterproof membrane and
Winter Contragrip.
“Salomon is known for carrying hikers
over mountains on a stable chassis with a
skeleton that provides ample support from
rocks while allowing enough cushion to
make long treks comfortable,” says footwear associate Lance Taylor. “Quest is a
great example of an advanced chassis system that provides the foundation for a safe
and enjoyable experience in the mountains.
Contragrip sole construction is superior to
the competition, offering a more stable sole
on cold, snow-packed trails. A combination
compound formula and lugs give the most
efficient winter grip in cold conditions.”
22. Timberland’s Belknap, a light hiker, is
made with premium full-grain waterproof
leather and ballistic mesh that allows it to
breathe easy and resist abrasions.
The waterproof Gore-Tex membrane
keeps feet dry and comfortable, and the
outsoles that are made of 42 percent
recycled rubber make it a breeze to
climb up and down trails. There’s also a
fully gusseted tongue to keep debris out
and comfort in and a full-length ethyl
vinyl acetate midsole that provides lightweight cushioning and absorbs shock.
23. Rocky’s Long Range Pull-On is a fourway crossover, covering the Western, work,
outdoor and duty categories.
The square-toe boot, which has a leather upper, features an Expansion Fit seam
that makes it easy to pull on and off and
a lifetime-guaranteed footbed and outsole
system. It is available with or without a
steel toe.
“This boot is more loaded with features
than a top-line luxury car,” says Amber
Vanwy, marketing manager. “Between the
10-layer comfort outsole, the proprietary
Long Range leather and the Expansion Fit
seam, this boot is the most comfortable,
durable boot in its class.”
24. Tecnica’s Cyclone Thermic GTX is
made for every activity from snowshoeing,
winter hiking and sledding to snow shoveling and walking through slush on frozen
city streets.
The lightweight boot is lightly insulated
with Primaloft, protected with Gore-Tex
and built with a Nubuck rand instead of a
rubber one, making it versatile enough for
all-day indoor/outdoor winter use.
The Tecnica Rolling System, which features an oversized roll zone with about twothirds in the rear that is flat and one-third
in front that is rolling rocker, eliminates
the tick-tock effect or dead spot when
walking and improves energy
transmission.
“The Cyclone Thermic
GTX is a nimble allwheel-drive sports
wagon in a world of
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A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
THE BOOT BOOK
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lumbering, tank-like SUVs,” says Tom Berry, global VP-sales, marketing and merchandising. “It’s a true light hiker versus an ‘icefishing’ boot that you can walk in.”
25. Timberland PRO Valor’s McClellan, a first responders/duty
six-inch side-zip waterproof boot, is made to go the extra rugged
mile. It features Dynamic Anti-Fatigue Technology that absorbs
shock and returns energy at key zones of the foot and a 3D mesh
with Agion antimicrobial-treated waterproof lining. Its aggressive
Timberland Brake Support Flex Propel motion rubber outsole is
slip-resistant, oil-resistant and abrasion-resistant.
26. Muck Boots’ Tatton, a knee-height boot, is part of a new collection of women’s boots debuting this year.
The Tatton pairs practical styling with stunning colors like lavender to create high-performance footwear designed to keep feet
dry, safe and comfortable during everyday activities.
The boot, which has clean lines and easy-wash rubber overlays,
features an outsole whose large surface grips well on slick surfaces and provides great traction for walking.
“What separates the Tatton from competitive products is that it
offers women a highly functional boot with a sense of style,” says
Ari Mintz, product manager. “The Tatton is perfect for running
errands on a rainy day, working in the garden, or even taking a
walk in the snow. It incorporates all of Muck’s traditional features.”
27. TrekSta’s Assault GTX, a waterproof, slip-resistant hi-tech
hiker, is light yet offers full support. The brand, which was founded
in 1988 and is sold in more than 20 countries, is making its debut
in the North American market this year.
Its NestFIT system, which was created by computer mapping more
than 20,000 feet to get the right fit, cradles the foot by following
every contour of its curves, and its IceLock and HyperGrip rubber compounds stop slips. A full inner bootie made of GORE-TEX
membrane lets feet breathe and keeps them dry.
“People are looking for a light and fast hiking boot, but they still
want plenty of rigidity and support,” says sales coordinator Mike
Barker. “The Assault GTX combines all of these desires into one
package. Once you slip on any of our NestFIT models, your feet
will be amazed.”
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28. Tony Lama’s Coffee Montana Steel Toe, a Western work
boot, features the company’s brand new square steel toe, an
11-inch upper, a TLX performance comfort system, a high-abrasive
rubber outsole, a lightweight, flexible midsole, premium full-grain
performance leathers and a heavy-gauge shank for support.
“Square-toe profiles are a major trend in the Western work category,” says Mike Fuller, brand manager. “We have taken this trend
and combined it with a durable steel toe for a hard-working, greatlooking boot.”
29. Wolverine’s Corsair, a multifunctional waterproof compositetoe crossover work boot, gets it toughness from ArmorTek, a
strong, abrasion-resistant material.
Lightweight and comfortable, Corsair features Wolverine
MultiShox rubber lug outsoles, which return energy and reduce
fatigue, and Wolverine Contour Welt construction, which provides
more support in the instep and increased flexibility. Wolverine
ArmorTek material reduces wear and tear on key areas like the toe
and its contrasting color becomes a fashionable design element.
“The Corsair is a comfortable, long-lasting boot that will perform
in the toughest conditions,” says Roger Huard, VP-product development. “ArmorTek is as strong and flexible as traditional leather
but is significantly more durable and won’t crack or split.”
The Corsair, available in six-inch, eight-inch and Wellington
styles, comes in brown and black and is backed by a 30-day comfort guarantee.
30. Wolverine iCS Gore-Tex Hiker. The Wolverine Fulcrum is a
new hiking boot designed to offer lightweight performance and
comfort. The Fulcrum has a Vibram Mutant outsole and a waterproof full-grain leather upper and Gore-Tex membrane to keep
feet dry all day long. With a nylon shank for stability and support, the Fulcrum provides a firm ride, suitable for long hikes
with heavy gear. An OrthoLite performance insert provides arch
support and an organic inner lining that naturally reduces odors
and wicks away moisture. The boot also features Wolverine iCS
(Individual Comfort System), so wearers can dial in personal
comfort by adjusting the disc in the boot’s heel. Backed by
Wolverine’s 30-day comfort guarantee, the Fulcrum is available in
Brown and Black.
THE BOOT BOOK
Service Without a Single Slip-Up
> For uniformed workers, safety and style go toe-to-toe
By Nancy A. Ruhling
A
s more employers require workers in
service professions to wear slip-resistant footwear, brands are stepping up
the style and technology in the service shoe
category.
The new smart-looking safety service shoes
– the ones that get the fleet feet of letter carriers, flight attendants, hotel workers, janitorial
and maintenance staffs, security guards, casino employees, restaurant workers and medical
staff members through endless days – are built
on the athletic models that have become so
popular in the rest of the work world. Designed
to be worn every day and for every occasion,
they have expanded the crossover category.
To get things right, the brands are doing a
lot of legwork, listening to what wearers want.
MOZO, for instance, called in a trio of celebrity
chefs to design shoes for the restaurant industry, and Warson Brands didn’t gamble when it
designed its latest for the casino crowd. “Women
in the casino industry are telling us they need
not only lightweight, comfortable footwear that’s
easy to clean, but also footwear that has more
style,” says Doug Sproull, corporate VP-product
development at Warson Brands, whose latest
Rockport collection offers a sleek slip-on for
women and a tie oxford for men.
Although service shoes are designed with
specific industries in mind, not all the wearers work in the service industry — styles have
become so stylish and comfortable that the
shoes are filling the closets of those who usually
wear casual athletic shoes. And as the category
evolves, it seems safe to say that that expansion will continue.
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1. MOZO’s The Sharkz, the newest style in the
brand’s collection for the restaurant and food industry, has a uniframe construction that includes gel
insoles, slip-resistant outsoles and side vents that
help manage heat and moisture.
Later in the spring, the brand will launch The
Signature Chef Shoes, three versions of The Sharkz
designed by chefs Marcus Samuelsson, Chris
Cosentino and Aarón Sánchez.
“The Chef Shoes Collection will give restaurant and
food-industry workers an alternative to the traditional
basic black shoe and the opportunity to bring style
into their work environment,” says brand president
Stuart Jenkins. “The designs will reflect each chef’s
culinary inspirations and personality while maintaining the quality and comfort MOZO is known for.”
2. Pro-Step’s Barnett, a slip-resistant shoe for
men and women, is designed to look like everyday
footwear. Like a running shoe, it features Strobel
construction for flexibility as well as a stain-resistant
leather upper that won’t crack at the flex points, a
lightweight ethylene vinyl acetate midsole for shock
absorption, a dual-density memory foam footbed
and a slip-resistant bottom. It is available in black or
white. It is designed by the makers of Nurse Mates.
“With rich, full-grain leathers and sleek, refined
styles, Pro-Step footwear is designed to project a
professional image while ensuring on-the-job safety
and comfort,” says Stephen Johnson, national sales
manager. “The shoes exceed the industry standard
for slip resistance for dry, wet and oily-wet conditions on quarry and vinyl tile surfaces.”
3. Avenger Safety Footwear’s A7215, Footwear
Specialties International’s most slip-resistant footwear,
is classified as a waterproof industrial work boot, but
it’s made to do double duty in the service industry.
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A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
Featuring a full-grain pebbled leather upper, an
extra-wide, comfortable composite toe cap and a
dual-density polyurethane insole with a supportive
arch area, the boot’s dual-density polyurethane
slip- and oil-resistant outsole has an easy-to-clean
construction that meets food-processing workplace requirements. It’s available in medium and
wide widths.
4. Nurse Mates’ Rhythm, a slip-resistant, gored
slip-on with athletic styling that is part of the Tempo
Collection, is designed for nursing and hospitality
professionals as well as the general population.
Its low-profile, contoured outsole works with
the natural movement of the foot to make walking smoother and easier on the body. The shockabsorbing bottom prevents rocking and the stabilizing heel provides balance. It features a dual-density
polyurethane bottom, a full-grain leather ecco upper
and a dual-density removable insole that takes the
shape of the foot. In addition to the Rhythm, the collection includes the Salsa, a lightweight, sporty Mary
Jane, and the Swift, a contemporary slip-on.
“The collection is lighter and sleeker and more
eye-appealing,” says Stephen Johnson, national
sales manager of Nurse Mates, which is celebrating
its 50th anniversary. “It promotes healthy tone, circulation and posture.”
5. Spring Step’s Boogie, part of its Walk ‘n’ Roll
Collection, offers a comfortable, fashionable, oil- and
skid-resistant option for workers who are on their feet
all day. Advanced technology – the shoe, available in
black or white, has a removable sock liner, cushioned
midsole with supportive rigid ethylene vinyl acetate
and pillow-cushioned inserts – takes the pressure off
the lower back and improves posture.
“The design utilizes neglected muscles and pro-
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motes fitness with every step,” says David Benzikry,
president of Spring Footwear, which is celebrating
its 20th anniversary. “The Boogie addresses the
need for a modern, clean streamlined design with a
fitness attitude that will look and feel good with any
casual outfit or uniform.”
6. Keen Utility’s Women’s PTC Slip-On, which is
oil- and slip-resistant, is a versatile worker that is
perfect for a variety of jobs.
It has a waterproof and stain-resistant leather
upper, a rubber-wrapped toe and a footbed that
provides cushioning via a polyurethane and memory foam contouring sole.
7. Dansko’s Uniform-ity. Dansko’s clogs have
long been popular with nurses and other health
care professionals. This month, the brand will begin
shipping its first ever healthcare apparel collection
for men and women. Dansko Work Wonders clothing line features a performance fabric the company
has branded as DanskoLOCK, which the company
says helps the garments hold the
characteristics they had at time of
purchase. Dansko says the LOCK
applies to temperature control,
(the synthetic fabric wicks away
moisture), care (the garments
hold their shape and color
after repeated washings) and
size (they don’t shrink either).
The initial collection features
pants, tops and headwear for
men and women. It includes four
fabric types – box check, honeycomb, waffle and double face
knit – in 13 styles. The pieces
come in traditional uniform colors as well as select fashion
colors for most styles. Sizes for
women range from XS to 3XL
and will include petite and tall
options; men sizes run from
S-3XL with tall options.
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8. Shoes For Crews’ Energy StayFit is a stylish
leather water-resistant and slip-resistant work shoe
for women.
The brand, which bills itself as the maker of “the
original slip-resistant shoe,” has been making gripping footwear for a quarter century.
The Energy StayFit pairs the latest fitness
technology with the brand’s patented Mighty
Grip slip-resistant outsole. It also features a patent-pending torsion bar construction to improve
balance and stability, contoured insoles to cradle
the feet in comfort and a full 1 ¼-inch flexible
outsole.
“We offer more than 70 styles of work shoes
and boots, and many of them start at under $30,”
says Brenna Lynch, marketing coordinator.
9. Thorogood’s Street Athletics, which are made
for the feet of those who work in the post office,
law enforcement and any profession requiring
black slip-resistant shoes, feature lightweight athletic styling.
Made to complement the uniformed work force,
the three U.S. Postal Service-certified styles have
a two-density, shock-absorbing sole technology,
a multi-layer Motion Sensor removable footbed, a
nylon liner to wick away moisture, polishable leather and a specialized sand-textured traction sole for
superior slip resistance. “Thorogood Shoes have
been built by Weinbrenner Shoe Co. since 1892 —
that’s a 119-year tradition of quality that uniformed
professionals have come to expect,” says Pat
Miner, senior VP-sales and marketing.
10. Cat Footwear’s Consort, part of the brand’s
Service Dress collection, was created to address
the gap between needing protective footwear and
working in a business casual environment where
the typical work boot isn’t appropriate.
The Consort, along with the Oversee, an Oxford
lace-up, are slip-resistant and static-dissipating
and have steel toes, nylon mesh linings and ethyl
vinyl acetate sock liners, rubber outsoles and
Goodyear welt construction.
“The Consort and Oversee are ideal for supervisors who need to move from the office to the
factory floor and back again,” says Kelly Ballou,
marketing manager. “If you work in a factory that
produces computer chips, you need to wear staticdissipating footwear to protect the chips from
damage. And you must wear the steel toe on the
factory floor.”
11. Rockport’s 605 and 6522, lightweight, slipresistant, leather work shoes, are designed for the
casino industry.
The stylish 605, a women’s twin-gore slip-on,
and the 6522, a five-eye tie dress men’s oxford, are
engineered for comfort. Each features the brand’s
Dynamic Suspension System insert for comfort, a
moisture-wicking mesh lining and an anti-slip pigskin heel counter.
“The suspension system built into these shoes
really sets them apart,” says Doug Sproull, corporate VP-product development at Warson Brands.
“It creates a thin cushion of air under the entire foot
that moves and comforts with every step. There’s
really nothing else like it on the market.”
12. Dr. Martens’ Malvern Chukka Boot is part
of the brand’s Service Grip-Trax collection of five
men’s and women’s styles developed for hospitality and restaurant professionals. The collection
includes a three-eye shoe, a slip-on shoe and a
Mary Jane.
Like the others in the collection, the Malvern
Chukka Boot has an industrial full-grain leather
upper, a moisture-wicking lining, a removable
insole and a slip-resistant rubber sole whose GripTrax technology has an intersecting and perpendicular tread pattern. The styles meet or exceed
industry testing standards.
“More and more employers are requiring
their employees, whether they are entry-level or
managerial, to wear slip-resistant shoes,” says
Christopher Scott-Dykes, industrial product lead.
“These styles perform well on the job and look
great doing so.”
A Special Report to Footwear Insight & Sports Insight • January/February 2011
BOOTCAMP
The New
Mandatory
Silhouette
For Fall 2011
Jambu Adventure
Design’s Burlington in
waterproof tumbled leather.
F
or those skeptical retailers who wondered whether the boot business had any gas in the tank after the past few years, we hate to be
the ones to break it to you, but you were wrong. And you should be
happy about it. Fall 2011 lines from just about every brand feature
great boots for women, men and kids, too.
These boots know no boundaries. There are high boots, low boots,
boots with heels, toning boots, boots with laces, fleece lined boots,
fashion boots, rugged boots. The last time we saw so many boots, the
U.S. Marines were rescuing us from a bad vacation in a third world
country. But that’s a story for another day.
44 • Footwear Insight ~ Month/Month 2010
The run up in boot styles has had a freeing affect on designers.
The variety is stunning and when it comes to shoes, boots offer more
of everything: tasty details like brightly colored laces and tarnished
buckles. Combinations of leathers work to create sophisticated looks.
And mixes of wool and leather make for fun, fashionable designs.
Brands are also breaking out of their comfort zones. Patagonia has a
riding boot. Naot has a few sexy ruffly numbers. And Timberland has a
pink lace up style that looks worthy of a sulky supermodel. But don’t
take our word for it, read the following pages and see for yourself. We
say boots for everyone. l
Lafuma LD Snoa boots
Naot’s Illusion
The Earth Minsk
Ahnu’s Monte Vista
Rockport’s Finnafur Laceup
Patagonia Addie Rider
Joand from You by Crocs
Merrell Winterbelle
Merrell Wilderness Remix
Sanita Gunhild
Cushe Women’s Cabin Fever
Keen Crested Butte
Keen Brighton High
Tecnica Moon Boot
Rockport’s Lola
Sanita Imrahil
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 45
Mephisto’s Milta
Timberland Crystal Mountain
Cushe Wildride
Combinations of leathers
work to create sophisticated
looks. And mixes of wool
and leather make for fun,
fashionable designs.
The Aetrex Essence
Ahnu Tahoe in White
Rockport’s Peakview
46 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
Cushe Gridskipper
Aetrex Berries Toggle
Sanita Maka
Dansko Finley
The Montera from Earthies
Dansko Kassidy
The Earth Pike
Alegria’s Tahoe
The Rant from Earth
The Sanita Elm
Naot’s Imagine
Bearpaw’s Miriam
The Sebago Scout
Naot’s Talent in Espresso
Jambu Birmingham
Alegria’s Short Boot
Alegria Tahoe
The Earth Rebel for Men
Alegria’s Manchester in Blue
The Sebago Saranac Strap
Rockport’s Park Ridge Buckle
Rockport D2N Buckle High
Birki’s Leather Skipper
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 47
The Timberland Lite Trace
Merrell’s Wilderness Canyon
Ecco Women’s Expedition
Keen Revel
Ahnu Mendocino in Brown
Ecco Men’s Expedition
Chaco’s Otis
Mephisto Men’s Okran GT
Ecco Men’s Ultra Terrain
Keen Santiago
Dansko Kitty Cranberry
48 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
Sanita’s Ditzel
WELLNESS MOVEMENT
GAINING
Wellness, Barefoot and Minimalism are all hot buzzwords. But brands are defying
classification as they target consumers with shoes that will make them feel better.
A
s the wellness movement gains traction, a whole host of companies – some new, some established – are entering the market.
Some are carving out a thin slice; others are offering a wealth of
product. It’s a mad dash to the finish line as these companies tout various technologies and try to capitalize on the wellness craze, with a jaded
eye on the toning category.
Most of these suppliers see a natural fit for their shoes and lines within the growing field of wellness footwear.
“As someone who has been riding the wave of minimalism, I’m thrilled,”
says Steven Sashen, founder of Invisible Shoe, Boulder, CO, of the wellness/
toning movement in footwear. “As someone interested in wellness and fitness, I’m fascinated with what people are coming out with.”
Dan Bazinet, general manager of the Dr. Weil Integrative Footwear line
(see story on page 22), sees the whole wellness picture as part of the
entire comfort classification and toning as another subset of the focus
on comfort.
“Wellness is a more defined subset of a larger comfort classification,”
he notes.
“The inference with wellness is that it goes beyond cushioning and
foot accommodation but that there’s a real benefit from wearing the
product such as in pain prevention, posture correction, gait enabling, allday support and wearability specific for end users seeking and needing
these benefits.”
Toning just happens to fall in a different subset but he fears the category may muddy the waters. “We are concerned about exaggerated
claims currently in the market turning consumers off,” Bazinet says.
Nicolas Mermoud, co-owner of Hoka One One, isn’t trying to ride the
wellness train at all. Instead, he sees his shoe line as targeted at runners
and trail runners looking for high performance. “We absolutely do not
consider our product line to be a part of this,” Mermoud says of the well50 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
ness/toning movement. “Our product is about high performance – stability, protection, lightweight and high speed.”
Sorting Through The Selection
With so many brands, so many categories and so many uses – let’s not
even count the SKUs to fill size and color runs – retailers face a monumental task in finding shoes that serve existing customers and draw new
ones to their shelves.
Suppliers hear that every day, no doubt. They also provide some
insights on helping retailers sort through the selection.
Mermoud believes savvy retailers understand
that people are looking for shoes that
There are
serve
a
purpose, even a specialized one at
many products
that.
“People
need different shoes. Instead of
that claim to
categorizing,
they
start to do so by purpose.”
be barefoot,
As
examples,
look
no further than skis, bikes
but it’s
and
golf
clubs,
he
adds.
important to
Understanding the customer base and
understand
the
store’s goals go a long way in selecting
what makes
brands,
Sashen says. He believes retailers
a true
can
look
at the major manufacturers to get
barefoot shoe.
a read on what truly is a trend vs. a fad,
especially by questioning the research behind any claims. But retailers
should also look to see if they can forge new relationships, Sashen says.
Do the research before something new hits the shelves, Clark suggests. There are many products that claim to be barefoot, he notes, but
it’s important to understand what makes “a true barefoot shoe – heel
height, lift, weight and flexibility. The real difference is the thickness of
the sole. Any shoe with a thick sole and pitch cannot claim to be a barefoot shoe as it masks sensory perception.” l
TRACTION
Footwear Tech
F
ootwear retailers have a huge challenge in
sorting through the wealth of new product hitting the market. Here’s a primer
on some of the new brands to hit the U.S., with
a brief overview on their technology, targeted
categories and audience, and preferred distribution channels:
Invisible Shoe
An avid runner, Steven Sashen and some
other members of his running club, began making huaraches on the sidewalk at the University
of Colorado. After a coach challenged him to
start selling his shoes, he built a Web site. It
became a full-time job within three months.
Technology: It’s about as old as it gets, Sashen
says. In fact, he says his goal is to bring retail
back to the Stone Age. The shoes thin layer
protects the foot while still allowing runners or
walkers to feel the ground. As its slogan says,
Feel The World.
Categories: Running forms the core base but
now the shoes are gaining attention as a lifestyle
shoe for walking, hiking and everyday usage.
Targeted Audience: Anyone who wants to feel
the world, Sashen says. Besides growing interest as a lifestyle brand, high school kids really
like the ability to uniquely personalize their
Invisible Shoe.
Distribution: Now that he’s been in business
for more than a year, he will launch a retail
product in 2011, adding a couple different outsoles to the line. There will be some complementary products such as cold weather booties
for protection, too, and another series for moderate climate to cover skin.
Altra Running
With more than 30 years experience owning
and operating a specialty running shop, the
founders felt the need in the market for something different. The avid runners worked to
design and test a more natural line of footwear.
Run Natural has become their rallying cry.
Technology: Different features distinguish
the line:
• Zero drop which means that the shoes are the
same distance off the ground at both the heel
and ball of the foot. While not totally unique,
Altra puts in cushion to encourage runners to
get underneath their bodies. “We found a lot
of people that wanted the benefits of barefoot
running but didn’t want the minimalist shoe
such as a five-finger,” says Golden Harper, one
of the founders.
• Foot shape design without a tapered toe box
and built on male and female lasts. This allows
the toes to splay naturally and improves balance, relaxes the foot and increases shock
attenuation.
• Female specific last and fit to account for narrower heel, smaller instep, longer arch and
different metatarsal positioning.
Categories: Running and walking. Two of the
three new models focus on trail running and
hiking.
Targeted Audience: They see it as the conscientious athlete who wants natural motion, as
well as injury prevention or an ability to overcome injuries.
Distribution: With a full line ready for an April
rollout, they are targeting specialty stores
geared toward running, triathlon and outdoors.
Orthaheel
It’s far from a new brand. In fact, it’s backed
by Vasyli International, one of the world’s most
prominent suppliers of custom and over-thecounter orthotics. After discovering an average
orthotic foot bed that works for nearly 70 percent of the population, the Orthaheel line was
extended to footwear. Originally launched in its
base in Australia in 1991, the line made its way
to the United States in 2008.
Technology: Orthaheel takes complex medical
technology from its custom orthotic labs and
simplified it for retail. The comfort line relieves
many common aches and pains such as heel
pain, knee pain, flat feet and more.
Categories: Sandals are the line’s strength
completed by closed-in casual footwear and a
line of orthotics for existing shoes.
Targeted Audience: The roughly 70 percent of
the population that over-pronate and need extra
support in their footwear. Heel pain sufferers
and existing orthotic users get great results,
says Steve Mabb, the line’s general manager.
With its core sandals, women represent 80 percent of its sales.
Distribution: The line is strong in home shopping/catalogs where the technology story can
be explained fully. Mabb believes this works
because television and catalogs tell the story. It
also is seeing a rapidly growing group of independent footwear retailers that find customers
return for a second, third and fourth pair. “We
like this channel and we are working hard on
this,” Mabb notes. And it is controlling distribution by staying away from the department
stores and big boxes. l
Vivobarefoot/Terra Plana
Invisible Shoe
Ortha Heel
Altra Running
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 51
RETAIL
Lucky Charm
A Family-Owned Chain in Ohio Lives Up to its Name
By Nancy A. Ruhling
N
early a century ago, a man by the name of Joe Luck got a
pushcart and started selling insulated work boots and long
underwear to the rubber company workers in the Akron,
Ohio, area.
He saved his money and at some point opened a general goods
store; he called it Lucky, presumably to play upon his charmed surname and to ensure his continued success.
About a half century after he started, he decided to concentrate
on footwear and in 1954, he opened Lucky Shoes in Fairlawn, one of
Akron’s wealthy suburbs.
That 15,000-square-foot flagship store was indeed lucky, and from it
came two others. The 9000-square-foot Canton store opened in 1981,
and it was joined by its 9000-square-foot Strongsville sibling in 1996.
Then, in 1998, the company expanded again, opening the first of what
would be nine New Balance concept stores — one in Fairlawn, one in
Canton, four in Cleveland and three in Columbus. Each Lucky Shoes is
paired with a New Balance store that’s right next door; the remaining
half dozen New Balance stores are freestanding.
At Lucky, CEO Tom Luck, Joe Luck’s grandson, and President John
Luck, Joe’s great-grandson, are proud to say that they still do things
the old-fashioned way just as Joe would have wanted.
52 • Footwear Insight ~ Month/Month 2010
“We’re very sit and fit,” John says. “We measure everyone’s feet and
do a computer analysis of them. We also carry a variety of sizes and
widths — up to size 18 and 6E for men and size 13 and 4E for women.
We do sell some shoes on the Internet, but we don’t really encourage
that because we’re interested in getting the right measurement and
the right fit, and to do that, you really have to come into one of the
stores.”
The Lucky stores, which are known for their comfort styles, see
most of their sales – 60 percent – in the athletic category. Thirty percent of their sales fall into the casual category, and 10 percent come
from dress shoes. Some 60 percent of the customers are women; 30
percent are men and 10 percent are children.
“New Balance is our No. 1 brand in both the athletic and casual
categories,” John says. “When people ask for athletic and casual, they
want work shoes, and these can vary from the plain black athletic
shoes to the Dansko clog. We’re home to the Cleveland Clinic, and the
medical field is the number one employer in northeast Ohio. When
people think medical, they think scrubs, but there also are a tremendous number of administrators at the clinic who spend a lot of time
on their feet.”
One of the keys to Lucky Shoes’ longevity, John says, has been its
ability to stay on its toes. When he joined the company full time after
college in 1991, some 80 percent of the chain’s sales were in dress
Clockwise: President John Luck at the Fairlawn store, one of three in the family-owned chain, where the work boots are displayed
by brand. The business, started by his great-grandfather nearly a century ago, specializes in the comfort category ; In each of its
three stores, Lucky has built out spaces for Vera Bradley and Brighton accessories, which include handbags and jewelry.; Lucky
Shoes has paired three of its New Balance concept stores, including this one in South Park, with its casual-shoe stores.
shoes. “I was into sports and health and had studied foot anatomy
because I had wanted to be a personal trainer, so I started putting padding into the customers’ shoes,” he says.
As the shift to healthy choices continued, Lucky Shoes began making
custom orthotics. John became a certified pedorthist, and the staff of
110 includes five. Off-the-shelf orthotics is one of the chain’s primary
accessories.
“For the customer, there’s still a big learning curve
about orthotics,” he says. “One of the primary services we provide is explaining the prescription the
doctor has written. In addition to fitting in the inserts,
we tell the customers what they can do in their daily
life – everything from stretching to icing – to make
their feet feel better.”
Because most of the customers are women, the
stores started stocking small accessories like belts
then branched out to handbags, jewelry, backpacks
and luggage. Each Lucky Shoes recently was outfitted with sections devoted to the Brighton and Vera Bradley accessories brands. “About 25 percent of the sales come from non-shoe items
like these,” John says. “Charm bracelets, for instance, have been very
popular. Many of our customers are older, and the Vera Bradley items
in particular have attracted a lot of young women, so this gives us new
blood and new potential shoe customers.”
From 1998 to 2010, Lucky Shoes more than lived up to its lucky name:
Business quadrupled. “Even through the down economy, we posted
consistent increases,” John says.
One of the main reasons for this, John says, has been because Lucky
Shoes has made a big investment in administrative staff to analyze market data. “We wanted to make sure that our eyes are
always on the ball,” he says.
The old-fashioned way may be the right way for
now, but that doesn’t mean that Lucky Shoes is
running in place when it comes to hi-tech sales
techniques. “We’re investigating Twitter, and we’ve
been monitoring comments about us on online rating sites like Yelp,” John says. “We’re interested in
setting up a Facebook page.”
Since opening its latest New Balance concept store
in September 2010, Lucky Shoes, like an athlete pacing itself for the next marathon, is taking a break to
strengthen itself from within.
“We’re working on further improving our systems in 2011,” John says.
“We won’t be looking at opening more New Balance and Lucky stores
until at least 2012. We have no plans to go to other states. Ohio has
been good for us.” l
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 53
ANALYSIS
Chapter Excerpt from the NSRA Business Performance Report 2010
2010 survey reflects
the ‘newOwnormal’
ner’s Manual.
2010 / 2011
Business
Performance
Report
The only comprehensive financial overview of owner-operated shoe stores in the United States, providing in-depth analysis and benchmark numbers on:
n
Sales - by gender, category,
store and internet
Operating expenses
Wage & salary costs
Inventory and margin
Profitability
with better sales, higher margins and
lower expenses.
By Evan Wise and Marc Weiss, Management One
Another change in the sample
data
occurred because New Balance
onclusion: Fewer respondents in 2010 affect how all
stores and Foot Solution stores were
the data must be interpreted. In many respects,
not included in the 2009 results but
the 2010 survey reflects the “new normal” for
accounted for about one-quarter of
the industry. Any analysis of data must start with
the stores reporting in 2007.
the sampling itself. Different samples will return different
One other possible reason for
results, and the size of the NSRA database makes it important
fewer stores reporting may be that
that we are aware of sample differences. Comparisons
some stores were reluctant to report
between 2005, 2007 and 2009 must be made carefully due to
poor results. Again, that would tend
the changes in the sample set. The number of stores reporting
to raise the reported numbers.
has dropped consistently. From 2005 to 2007, the number
As we come out of the recession,
of stores reporting dropped by 35 percent and in 2009 the
the industry looks different and
number dropped 18 percent to 284.
this survey gives us insight into
Why were fewer surveys returned? There can be several
www.nsra.org
the retail environment into which
contributing factors to this.
we are emerging. The 2010 report
Fewer retailers responded to this survey. The survey
may indicate a “new normal” for
analysis depends on knowledge of how the sample set has
independent shoe retailers which raised the bar to higher levels.
changed and the impact that has on the interpretation.Re
In this case, the
quired ading for in
dewe
When
look
increases, we conclude that the
dropped respondents tended to be lower volume stores. That re
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pend
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oe reper
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rs.
numbers were probably not due to more robust business for the
automatically raise the average store sales volume in the survey with no
industry, but rather due to a modified environment where there were
market change at all. It is probable that many of these stores went out of
NSRA members: $29
5
fewer
competitors,
which meant remaining stores gleaned more
business – for business reasons, or because of retirement or consolidation Non-NS
RA memb
ers: $695
business. At any rate, the future for the stores that survived seems
– which would remove lower turn and lower volume stores from the mix.
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very bright, ay
according
to survey results.
Obviously that would eliminate the weaker performers, leaving stores
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Ten-Year
in Per
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Ten-Year Trend
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Sales
All Stores
10/11/10 4:23 PM
$1,071,643
$1,000,000
Net Sales
$897,320
$900,000
$802,954
$809,020
2001
2003
$832,635
$800,000
$700,000
$664,374
$600,000
1999
Survey Year
54 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
2005
2007
2009
Trend inTrend
Total
by Departments
in Sales
Total Sales
by Departments2005-2009
2005-2009
80.0
20.0
10.0
Children’s
Accessories
4.9
2.7
1.9
30.0
7.8
9.7
7.8
40.0
10.6
11.5
10.2
50.0
23.5
22.4
32.3
% of Total Sales
60.0
53.3
53.8
47.8
70.0
0.0
Women’s
Men’s
2009
Marketing Effect on Sales
Conclusion: Marketing has a profound effect on sales, and
especially in attracting new customers. With competitors going
out of business, it would seem beneficial to make a more
significant effort to attract the customers from those stores.
The survey results are contradictory in reflecting how well
respondents are achieving that goal.
Independent shoe retailers are specialty stores that
generally cater to a particular niche in the market. They
depend on product and service to differentiate themselves
from the mass merchants. The relationships they develop
with customers are important to building a business and
keeping customers returning time and again. Marketing
budgets (see Chapter 6, Advertising & Promotional Expenses)
are limited, so independents depend on repeat business with
few exceptions.
Stores are spending significantly more on marketing than in
past years. Marketing expenditures increased as a percentage
of sales by only 0.2 percent from 3.1 percent in 2007 to 3.3%
in 2009 (net of co-op money). In reality, greater per store sales
reported in 2009 made the actual expenditures in the average
store increase by 37 percent from $25,182 to $35,364. That
increase most likely had a positive impact on traffic and sales,
although that analysis does not square with the survey result
that says only 9.4 percent of respondents increased their
marketing while half decreased it. Keep in mind that vendors
paid for 10% of store marketing -- which would increase the
marketing investment, making marketing expenditures over
$38,500 per store, or 3.6 percent of sales. The contribution
from vendors for marketing is lower than in 2005 (19 percent).
Surprisingly, the expenditures on websites for retailers did
not increase percentage-wise when compared to sales, but
did increase in dollars spent per store due to the increase in
sales per store. Web site expenditures increased from $8300/
year in 2007 (0.1 percent) to $10,700 per store in 2009 (0.1
percent). Surprisingly, stores dropped expenditures on their
own Web sites from 5.4 percent of the marketing budget in
2007 to 4.6 percent in 2009. With the increase in sales, that
Footcare Items
2007
2005
meant an increase in dollars spent on a store’s own website
increased from $1359/year to $1626/year, a marginal increase.
Websites are becoming more critical to visibility as the
market moves from reading papers and answering land lines
to surfing the web. Think of the Web site as another “window”
in the store. It must display the merchandise you are selling
and be changed frequently. The percentage of retailers who
plan to have a website jumped 10 percent to 88 percent;
however, the loss of the 20 percent of less technology-driven
respondents would naturally drive up the number.
The rise in technology as a driver of marketing is
surprisingly not reflected in the survey results. There is
no accounting for social networking on Facebook, Twitter,
LinkedIn and other similar social networking sites. The
increase in traditional marketing venues like radio, print and
direct mail seems counter to the direction that marketing in
general is progressing. This will be covered more fully in the
section on marketing; however, this would have a profound
effect on sales results.
Marketing has a
profound effect on
sales, and especially
in attracting new customers. With competitors going out of business, it would seem
beneficial to make a
more significant effort
to attract the customers from those stores.
Elasticity and IMU (Initial Mark-Up)
Conclusion: The drop in IMU may have cost retailers
sales. Merchandise planning that factors in elasticity of each
classification will help to maximize revenue. Impact of the
recession may have been significant to IMU.
Everyone knows there are two ways to generate higher
sales: sell more or charge more. We all assume that if we
charge less, we will sell more, but that is not always true.
The relationship between the price and the demand for
what is being sold is called the “Elasticity of Demand.”
Elasticity of demand is important to independent retailers.
The relationship between sales and IMU is critical so that
revenue can be maximized. Most independent shoe retailers
do not compete on price, which allows them to keep IMU high
and that supports stronger sales. The most recent results
show that the IMU dropped significantly from 57 percent
to 54 percent, which was either a result of reactions to the
recession or fears on the part of retailers about reactions to
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 55
ANALYSIS
Trends in Women’s Category Sales 2005-2009
Trends in
Women’s Category Sales 2005-2009
80.0
70.0
0.0
Dress
Closed
Casual
Sandals
28.9
19.2
19.5
Clogs
Boots
8.1
8.7
6.7
10.0
7.9
7.2
9.2
20.0
5.8
7.7
7.3
30.0
22.5
20.2
16.8
40.0
27.3
24.0
20.7
50.0
9.2
12.7
10.4
% of Total Sales
60.0
Athletic
TREND
2009
It seems that many
shoe retailers are not
following the trends
toward technology in
retail as aggressively
as the chains or other
retail segments. This
means there are significant opportunities
for shoe retailers to
capture market share
from competitors and
grow their own business if they get the
right direction, planning and guidance.
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debis dolorro debitium
repel idit explaboris et
ad magnihil
the recession. That drop in IMU was most likely a significant
driver of increased sales if it occurred in classifications
that are elastic in their demand. A classification that is
sensitive to demand is termed elastic and a small change in
price yields a large change in sales. When retailers change
IMU without knowing the demand curve, often revenue is
sacrificed with little beneficial effect on sales. The equation
works the other way, too. When a retailer understands the
demand curve through his merchandise planning for each
classification, IMU can be increased significantly in inelastic
classifications without losing much in volume while driving
sales higher.
Initial mark-up is also impacted by buying effectiveness.
Amazingly, purchasing more than four months from
delivery increased from 47.9 percent to 59.3 percent. At
the same time, the OTB dollars allocated to in-season fillin, replacements and off-price increased from 46.6 percent
to 50.9 percent. The obvious conclusion is that retailers
are not following the merchandising plan. Often, success
depends as much on the buying timing, balance, flow and
terms negotiated as it does on the selling process itself.
Markdowns
Conclusion: Fewer markdowns were a positive result
in 2009.
On a positive note, the markdowns dropped remarkably
from 23 percent to 10 percent. Retrenchment in buying
and less willingness to take risks probably provided the
lower markdowns. In addition, sales increased 28.7 percent
in the average store. Overall, the impact of the recession
did not push the specialty shoe retailers down but rather,
they continued to improve in sales and profits as the
competitive environment consolidated by an estimated 20
percent. Keep in mind that as the 20% of weaker stores left
the survey, those were probably the ones that did not do
effective merchandise planning and took higher markdowns
to compensate for poor planning.
The importance of this is that when retailers focus on
doing business and generating sales, it can be done despite
the recession, economy or bad news on the horizon. Better
merchandise planning that includes monthly markdown
strategies to minimize markdowns while maximizing sales
56 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
Other
2007
2005
has always been critical to success. The recession and less
willingness to take risks in buying may have been important
in driving retailers to run closer to plans with less inventory.
Turn was 2.1 in 2009, but without reporting on turn in prior
surveys, it is impossible to tell for sure.
Service
Conclusion: Retailers kept staffing levels during the
recession and productivity increased in 2009.
Specialty shoe retailers are selling their service as a
differentiator in the marketplace. That service comes from
a trained and motivated staff. As noted in Chapter 10
(“Retailer Priorities: The Customer Service Puzzle”), virtually
all respondents listed a knowledgeable and courteous staff
as the most important service item – yet the importance of
training that staff to make them knowledgeable does not
seem to be borne out by the expenditure made on it that
is buried in administrative expense. Selling compensation
increased both as a percentage of sales (10.6 percent in 2009
vs. 9 percent in 2007) and as a dollar amount. The increased
compensation for selling emphasizes the importance of
keeping a highly trained and motivated staff. The change
would indicate that the more successful retailers are paying
their employees better wages. The remaining successful
retailers buoyed the percentage expenditure on staff.
Stores are keeping more staff employed (6.7 percent in
2009 vs. 6.4 percent in 2007) and those employees are more
productive, producing $152,430 per full-time employee in
2009 vs. $149,605 in 2007. This is still not at the levels of
2005, when the average store had 6.4 employees and each
produced $155,072 in sales.
That trained staff must maintain positive relationships
with customers and they are doing it through email (59.4
percent), direct mail (23.4 percent), and hopefully other
means of communication including social networking
(Facebook, Twitter, etc.). There was a significant jump in
the number of retailers using vendor funds for contests (63.7
percent in 2009 vs. 34 percent in 2007). This would increase
motivation and raise the energy level.
Included in service is the distribution model adopted by
a store to make shopping easy and available. 40 percent of
respondents use their website to provide sales directly to
Owner’s Manual.
1
2010 / 201
s
Busines ance
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Report
customers. That increased from 36 percent in 2007 and 35
percent in 2005.
Sales versus inventory
Conclusion: Turn rates were below industry standards for
independent retailers who are following a good merchandise
plan.
Turn rate of 2.1 was the average, which means that a store
carried about twice the annual sales in inventory at retail, or
$487,000 to do $1,023,000 at retail. The broad range of sizes
needed in the shoe business makes overriding inventory a
critical control factor for a successful store. Turn rates of 2.5
are expected and should be the goal, while turnover of 3 to
3.2 is not uncommon. Since shoe-only sales volume was 74
percent of total sales, higher turns in non-shoe classifications
can boost margins and profits when managed properly.
Another huge driver of sales is inventory freshness. Just
as grocery shoppers don’t buy brown bananas, customers
don’t buy a shoe that they looked at last month and didn’t
buy then. Keeping new merchandise on the shelves is critical
to repeat business and sales. 67.5 percent of respondents
reported that the vendor in-stock position was worse in 2009,
while only 8.6 percent reported it improving. There is little
indication as to the flow of goods to keep inventory fresh, but
that is an important aspect of merchandise planning which
will have a significant impact on sales.
Distribution
Conclusion: NSRA retailers are depending on brick and
mortar, not the internet, for sales.
Brick and mortar store sales played a larger role in the
success of the retail companies. That was an increase of
$237,400 per year in store sales. It is interesting to note
that as sales increased in the stores, the size of the average
store decreased from 3192-square feet to 2800-square feet.
The effectiveness and efficiency of space utilization rose
from $235 square foot to $246 square foot, an increase of
4.7 percent. This may be due to a return to shopping as
entertainment. (Note: At $246 square foot. and 2800-square
feet, the total sales would be $688,800, which is significantly
less than stores’ reported sales of $1,037,453.)
Internet sales in member stores dropped in importance,
providing only 1.6 percent of sales compared to 2.4 percent
in 2007. In dollars, that was a drop of only $2837 a year. The
counter-intuitive finding here is that, although most retailers
bemoan the impact of the internet on their sales, that
feeling is not borne out in this survey. The other potential
conclusion is that internet sales of shoes are growing, but
the independent retailer is not actively participating in that
growth. Mark Brohan, research director for Consumer Brand
Mfg., reported that Brown Shoe Co. internet sales rose 10.9
percent in Quarter 1 of 2009 and 13.1 percent in Quarter 1.
Changes in catalogue, leased department and other sales
did not change significantly over the period.
Category Trends
Conclusion: Independent shoe retailers are likely missing
opportunities in key classifications.
Overall, women’s shoe sales decreased 0.5% from 2007
to 2009. The only significant changes were in dress shoes,
which dropped 3.5 percent, and closed casuals, which
increased 3.3 percent. A surface view would suggest there
has been a switch from dress to casual. The dress shoe
business decrease might also be a result of some women’s
stores reporting dress shoes in their sandal category, which
also posted an increase of 2.3 percent. Given the strength of
the boot market in 2009, it was surprising that this category
only increased 0.7 percent and actually dropped from 2007
when it was at 9.2 percent. Given the decrease in women’s
overall, and the lack of growth in a strong category, one
conclusion might be that a golden opportunity was missed.
Accessories (non-pedorthic) also dropped from 5.4 percent
to 4.7 percent from 2007 to 2009. Typically, this is a higher
margin category, so a decrease can also mean a missed
opportunity, not only in revenue but in margins as well.
Men’s shoes increased 0.9 percent from 22.4 percent in
2007 to 23.5 percent in 2009. Most of the men’s categories
showed little shift. The big increase came in “other.” That
classification exploded from 2.8 percent to 6.4 percent. The
obvious question here is, what are these? Growing a category
necessitates knowing what its composition is. Are these the
five-finger toe shoes? Are they exotic high-priced skins that
drove the category up, or miscellaneous sales that were no
longer tracked because of reduced price points? Men’s boot
business also dropped in 2009 from 11.9 percent to 10.5
percent and from a high in 2007 of 15.8 percent. Similar to
women’s, why did this category decrease as the overall trend
in boots remained strong in 2009? Did reporting retailers feel
that the boot business had peaked, leading them to back
off on taking risks in the middle of the recession? Although
this report did not provide answers to those questions, it
provides a service by raising the questions for store owners
to consider based on their own sales.
Children’s shoes also dropped from 11.5 percent to 10.6
percent. The largest decrease occurred in sandals, from 16.2
percent in 2007 to 12.3 percent in 2009. The shining star
was in athletics, which increased from 48.1 percent in 2007
to 54 percent in 2009. Higher price points may have helped
this improvement. The market may be looking for a higher
price point and higher value shoe. We know this to be the
case in the skate shoe business, where shoes over $80 stole
a significant amount of market share away from lower-priced
shoes in 2008 and then into 2009.
Accessories and apparel dropped from 9.7 percent in
2008 to 7.8 percent in 2009, back to 2007 levels. However,
growth in footwear items like orthotics experienced a surge
in business, going from 2.7 percent to 4.9 percent.
Shoe retailers will continue to see challenges as competitors
arise, not only on the internet, but especially among apparel,
surf, and skate retailers who stay narrow and focused,
stealing market share away by focusing in on hot items.
Apparel designers are also reaching into the shoe market to
establish themselves and find ways to extend their brands.
They already have a relationship from which to build with
their current apparel client base. They will also market
heavily on the internet.
Shoe retailers are in a position to rethink their strategies
about categories. Many times, the reality of what happens
in the market is counter-intuitive to a retailer’s experience in
the store and to the historic logic of the customer’s desires.
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10/11/10 4:23
.indd 1
NSRA Ad (8.5x11)-01
Like what you’ve read?
Would you like to see
more? The NSRA 2010-11
Business Performance
Report, published in cooperation with Footwear
Insight, is available to
NSRA Members for $295
and non-members for
$695. The report is based
on in-depth data gathered
from more than 100 of
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Conclusion: There are many discrepancies in the data
which may indicate that some respondents were not diligent
in either their data capture or accounting accuracy. It seems
that many shoe retailers are not following the trends toward
technology in retail as aggressively as the chains or other retail
segments. This means there are significant opportunities for
shoe retailers to capture market share from competitors and
grow their own business if they get the right direction, planning
and guidance. l
January/February 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 57
END INSIGHT
Photo: HBO
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glamorous dames, including one played by Gretchen Mol.
The HBO series will return to TV this fall, but in the meantime the look
and feel of Boardwalk Empire will be evident in shoe stores aroundeven
America with 1920s influenced styles from a number of brands.
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What Would Nucky Wear?
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ast year, “Mad Men” was the TV show that influenced
fashion as apparel and shoe designers rolled out 1960s-style
designs that reflected the tastes of the characters from the
fictitious ad agency on the hit AMC Show.
This year, designers are taking their cues from another TV show
that travels a little further back in time.
HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire” chronicles the life and times of Enoch
“Nucky” Thompson, a corrupt politician who presides over Atlantic
2
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3
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4
6
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Fold down from Wolverine’s 1883 collection. 4. Austen Lacer Kiltie from the 1,000 Mile line. 5. Pearce Red Sole Oxford from Wolverine 1883. 6. The Wickham Brogue
Oxford from the Wolverine 1,000 Mile Collection.
58 • Footwear Insight ~ January/February 2011
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