CHEF! IssuE 32

alvadore
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•• Illuminated shelf and base for perfect product
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Salvadore floorstanding, countersunk and
countertop refrigerated display units:
•• Temperature range of +2°C to +8°C ambient
temperature of 32°C
•• Stylish modern design
•• Illuminated shelf and base for perfect
product presentation
•• Digital display and temperature control
for accuracy
•• Tempered glass
•• Automatic defrost
•• Low noise
•• Double glazed glass window to prevent
condensation
•• Grade 304 stainless steel interior
To arrange a demo or to locate a
dealer in your area,
please call 0800 332 537 or
visit www.bce.co.za
17
Contents
Foreword
3 A letter from SACA President Stephen
Billingham.
News
4 Items of interest, issues and happenings
in the culinary world.
27
Flavour of the Month
8 Foodie news from around the country.
Q&A
12Experts answer your industry questions.
Opinion
14 Brian McCune finds unlikely
inspiration from McDonalds.
15 Jackie Cameron goes back to basics
when the weather turns bad.
16 Stephen Hickmore talks salaries.
32
Training
17We profile SACA training provider
member SA Chef Training and
Innovation Academy.
Chef Profile
18 Sandton Sun’s Garth Shnier
Interest
36
20Tarragon is our ingredient of the
month.
22 Jodi-Ann Pearton is inspired by the
Australian food culture.
24How to spruce up your menu’s
vegetarian offering.
26 Culinary Team SA travel to the
Olympics in Germany.
30 Adele Stiehler looks at foie gras, the
industry’s guilty pleasure.
32 All the winners from the Sunday Times
Chef of the Year.
34 The Hudson & Knight Baking Masters
Competition.
36 Pritchitts Taste of the World
Competition.
Masterclass
40 The SA Chefs Academy demonstrates
a number of festive dishes using
Tydstroom Farm Chicken.
SACA Roundup
42 Board member: Henrik Jonsson.
43 Chef of distinction: Garth Stroebel.
44WACS focus: Culinary Olympics.
45 Competitions: Judge’s Dread.
47 A look back at the InfoChef
conference.
Wine World
48Debi van Flymen looks at how to pair
wine with food.
50Ryan Duvenage shows us a number of
Champagne cocktails.
Last Word
52We speak with the renowned Prue
Leith.
49
41
Dear Friends, Colleagues and Sponsors…
Olympic fever gripped the world this year. While we were
captivated by the spectacle and immensely proud of our Olympians’
success at the summer and Paralympic events in London, we
couldn’t wait for the chance to show the world what our chefs
can do. Finally, the Culinary Olympics arrived and our National
Team travelled to Erfurt, Germany to compete in the biggest team
cooking event in the world. From the 5th to the 10th of October,
our men and women in white under the leadership of Team
Manager Bruce Burns took part in the Culinary Olympics. They
cooked for six hours straight to prepare for the event where they
cooked in a 6x6 m² kitchen in front of thousands of spectators and
serving 110 people in 2 ½ hours in the Restaurant of Nations. The
majority of the squad worked night and day to prepare cold table,
show pieces and individual entries, it was stated that some only slept
for 3 hours in a 73 hour period. In total, they brought back one
gold, one silver and five bronze medals as well as two diplomas.
The 21 member squad of Culinary Team SA, made up of
development, junior and senior teams receives no remuneration
for their time on the Team. They took time off from their full-time
jobs to practise for four days each month for the past four years.
They did this all so that they could show the world what they, and
you, the chefs of South Africa, can do. This would be impossible
without the support of everyone around them at home and in the
industry. To the Team’s friends, families and employers – thank
you for your support and understanding; to the sponsors, partners,
contributors and friends of the Team – without your generous
contributions and sponsorship, this would have been an impossible
endeavour; to the support Team at the SACA office and CCE –
thank you for your hard work and patience; and, finally, thanks
must go to the chefs and members of the hospitality industry in
South Africa - you have always been behind the
Team and your support means everything to us.
Our Team have never claimed to be the best chefs
in the country, although many of them are esteemed chefs or successful
business men and women in their own restaurants or businesses.
However, these talented individuals are probably the most dedicated
and committed chefs in the country at present, as they have sacrificed
thousands of hours of work and family time to the promotion and
uplifment of South Africa as a leading culinary destination.
I was very proud to be a part of the contingent that travelled to
Germany with the Team and represent South Africa along with Garth
Shnier on the internationally accredited judging panel. I would like to
especially thank Garth for his support of this young Team both before
and during the Olympics – insight from an experienced competition
chef such as Garth, who has competed in many prestigious international
and local competitions at all levels, is invaluable.
The Team will now take a deserved break to concentrate on their work
commitments over the festive season. Culinary Team South Africa will
regroup in February 2013 and set up team trials to be held at Hostex in
Johannesburg in March 2013.
Culinary Regards,
Stephen Billingham
For and on behalf of the Board of Directors and the Regional Chairs
"In every restaurant, the hardness of the butter increases in direct proportion
to the softness of the bread.” ~Anonymous
Published by Shout Factory
President Stephen Billingham
Publisher Jason Whitehouse - Tel: 021 556 7493
Fax: 086 617 4740
General Manager Graham Donet
Advertising Sales Jason Whitehouse
Finance Manager Connie Butler
jason@shoutfactory.co.za
Events Manager Nicholas Sarnadas
Editorial Sarah Marjoribanks
sarah@shoutfactory.co.za
Membership Manager Jason Pitout
Design & Layout Shout Creative - Peter Batistich - peter@shoutfactory.co.za;
communications manager Lauren Hills
Jeanlé Casarin - jeanle@shoutfactory.co.za
Disclaimer Shout Factory makes no representations about the accuracy of the information, data,
advertisements, graphics or other content contained in any Shout Factory owned online platform,
e-mail newsletter or print publication, including but not limited to the Shout Factory print and online
magazine, blogs and other email newsletters, and any other media channel owned or produced by
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please visit http://shoutfactory.co.za/print-media/
Printing Creda
Images Christoph Hoffmann, Frank Bekker, Supplied
Chef! is published bi-monthly by Shout Factory on behalf of the South African Chefs Association
The South African Chefs Association
University of Johannesburg, School of Tourism & Hospitality
Tel: 011 482 7250 - Fax: 011 482 7260
info@saca.co.za - www.saca.co.za
SACA Patrons
TSOGO SUN
p u b l i s h i n g
TM
Eat better. Live better.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 3
News
News
Goldcrest Young Chef of the Year
On the 25th of October, 12 young chefs from around the country
gathered at the South African Chefs Association to take part in
the final cook-off in the 2012 Goldcrest Young Chef of the Year
Competition.
The criteria for entries this year were extremely tough; students
were asked to submit a four-course tasting menu, using Goldcrest
products, with each course being influenced by one of the five
senses (taste, sight, smell, hearing and touch) and one element of
molecular gastronomy.
Why such a challenge? The prize for this year’s winner was a one
week all-expenses-paid trip to London to experience the cuisine of
gastronomic wizard, Chef Heston Blumenthal.
Winning the title of Goldcrest Young Chef of the Year was Grant
Scheltens from Capital Hotel School, who impressed the judges
with his menu of Tomato gelee topped with quenelle of creme
fraiche with parmesan crisp, quince reduction and fresh dill; Crab
and shrimp pops served in a chip basket with homemade teriyaki
sauce; Brandy Flambéed chicken liver scented with a curry spice
and served as a bunny chow with an orange marmalade sauce; and
Reconstructed passion fruit curd egg served with candied bacon
and honey milk ice cream with rooibos tea caviar.
techniques, and it was an experience that will help me in my
career,” Grant continued.
The other finalists in the competition were Lauren Frost
(Capsicum Culinary Studio, Cape Town), Lenanje Spangenberg
(Capsicum Culinary Studio, Boksburg), Charmaine Daffue
(Capital Hotel School & Training Academy), Maria Ohlson
de Fine (HTA School of Culinary Art), Dean Seddon (HTA
in-service trainee), Darren O’Donovan (HTA School of Culinary
Art), Ntokozo Dlamini (HTA in-service trainee), Liezl Bruce
(UJ School of Tourism & Hospitality), Dominique Hobson
(HTA School of Culinary Art), Abigail Evans (HTA School of
Culinary Art) and Luxola Tabato (National Youth Chefs Training
Programme).
This year’s competition was the toughest and most innovative
Goldrest Young Chef of the Year Competition to date, and the
menus produced by each finalist were inspiring to see.
“When I first found out about the competition, I knew I wanted
to enter. I have been intrigued by molecular gastronomy and love
Heston Blumenthal’s book The Big Fat Duck – I have it at home.
My menu was inspired by the creativity and scope of molecular
gastronomy and my favourite element of my menu was definitely
the fourth course… the breakfast reinvented,” said Grant.
“This was the first competition I entered and it was very
challenging, but when I was there, competing against the 11 other
finalists, I felt that everything came into place. This competition
has taught me a lot about timing, ingredient quality, plating
On the Move…
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Michelle da Silva has been promoted to Senior Project Manager with MLK Food & Beverage Consulting
Andrew Atkinson has left the Michelangelo Hotel and is now acting as an independent consultant to the hospitality industry
PJ Vadas has joined the Vergelegen Wine Estate team to head up its new restaurant, Camphors at Vergelegen
Charles Hannay is now the Senior Sous Chef for the Hilton Hotel in Durban
Jodi Lynn Gillespie is now the Junior Pastry Sous Chef for the Hilton Hotel in Durban
Stuart Hatton-Jones is now the Sous Chef for the Hilton Hotel in Durban
Nadia Adams has now joined Fedics KZN
Jelele Mokhine is now the Executive Chef for Arwyp Medical Centre in Kempton Park
Karal Groenewald is now the General Manager and Executive Chef of the Plettenberg Park Hotel & Spa in Plettenberg Bay
4 | CHEF! Issue 32
Khoza and Knorr team up
Wellington’s supports StreetSmart
James Khoza, Executive Sous Chef of the
Sandton Convention Centre and Director of the
South African Chefs Association, has teamed up
with Knorr to try out their new range of wet and
dry marinades. “Having spent so many years in
hotels while also overseeing the preparation of
meals for staff canteens, and now being involved
in a convention centre, I’ve seen brigades get
smaller while we try not to let quality suffer,” says
James. “These professional ingredients help you
meet the challenges of the kitchen environment
without compromising on what is so important
– taste. The other key benefit of the Knorr range
is the fact that they produce consistently good
results; something that can’t always be said of
marinades prepared from scratch.”
Wellington’s, the well-known South African producer of sauces and chutneys, put
its weight behind the StreetSmart charity ahead of Heritage Day. StreetSmart is
an NGO that raises funds to get homeless and abused children off the streets and
into care and education. Wellington’s used the run-up to Braai Day to spread the
word about StreetSmart as it promotes its delicious new product, Steak House
Sauce.
“I tried all the Knorr marinades, in different
ways – and was always impressed at the
results. In fact, they were often better than I
anticipated. The first thing that Chefs need
to know is that these products are truly userfriendly, easy to handle and easy to store.
Having said that, even more important is
the fact that the dishes tasted excellent. I was
proud to put my name to meals that I had
created using these marinades,” says James
James created a couple of special dishes that
went down particularly well, he says. One was
spare ribs using the Spare Rib marinade: “the
tenderised meat was moist, flavourful and soft.”
He also used the Mozambican Peri-Peri marinade
on seafood on a fish and prawn kebab.
“I understand that chefs are concerned that
they might lose their unique touch when using
a Knorr marinade over
scratch marinades,
but the advantages
outweigh the concern.
The bottom line is
that the consistently
good flavour and
quality is an excellent
foundation for a
delicious meal,”
says James.
In our last issue we captioned a photograph of
Craig Broadfoot from Orley Foods incorrectly.
We apologise for the error.
“We see the great work that StreetSmart is doing in the Cape to get children
off the streets and away from drugs and crime,” says Jason West, Commercial
Executive for Heinz Foods SA and the Wellington’s brand. “We support the
principle promoted by StreetSmart, and would like to spread the word.”
StreetSmart discourages people from giving money to children begging on the
street as it just fuels the problem of homelessness and drug-dependency. Rather,
they ask people to make a donation to the organisation by dining out at one of
the establishments that support the charity – when the bill arrives, one can simply
make a donation then and there. On the 19th of September, Wellington’s hosted a
Heritage Day braai at the Salesian institute in Cape Town for 150 children whose
lives are being changed by the efforts of StreetSmart. Ajax FC was on hand to
offer a free soccer clinic for the children which was followed by a lunch braaied by
chefs from some of South Africa’s leading restaurants.
To get involved, visit www.streetsmartsa.org.za to make a donation.
WIN a braai kit from Wellington’s by emailing
sarah@shoutfactory.co.za with the answer to
this question:
Which charity is Wellington’s supporting?
Academy of Chefs partners with Acorn Foundation
Chairman of the Academy of Chefs, Philippe Frydman, was recently appointed
as the Acorn Foundation Ambassador for nutrition, after having endorsed a food
product to help curb malnutrition in South Africa’s disadvantaged communities.
Described as a ‘meal in a bottle’, this product offers a nutritionally balanced
meal and is made up of rice, vegetables, protein, herbs and spices as well as
additional vitamins and minerals. One meal, bottled in a Bottle 2 Build Schools
plastic bottle costs less than R2 per serving and is able to feed a family of 15. The
packaging from the bottle is later re-used and becomes a building block for a
school as each bottle is designed to lock into the next bottle.
Acorn Foundation, which is a non-profit organisation set up and supported
by GloCell, partners with friends of the foundation which includes volunteers,
donors, sponsors and beneficiaries, to alleviate poverty. The Foundation has only
been in existence for a year and there are plans to
link the Meal in a Bottle with an existing project,
the vegetable tunnel concept. Vegetables are grown
in schools across South Africa, sold back to the
Foundation to be used as an ingredient in the Meal
in a Bottle, and surplus can be sold to retailers or
used at home.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 5
Bring out
the flavourburst in
every meal!
Add NEW MAGGI® Spicy Liquid Seasoning
For more information
Tel: 0800 0016 48
www.nestleprofessional.co.za
• Bring out the flavour of food - MAGGI® Spicy Liquid
Seasoning enhances the natural taste of dishes with
a delicious spicy zing. It’s about a uniquely rich and
aromatic ‘bite’ without the burn while adding
expression to the original flavours.
• Ideal alone, wonderful when blended - Inspired by
Schehzen Pepper, Spicy Liquid Seasoning gives a
well-balanced spicy dimension to entrees, gravies,
soups, stews and sauces. Incorporate it into marinades
and dressings or simply ‘splash on’.
• A little goes a long way - NEW MAGGI® Spicy
Liquid Seasoning is your economical flavour solution
because of its concentrated form.
• Naturally good – Spicy Liquid Seasoning is a unique
100% wheat-based product that is the result of a
7-week natural fermentation process.
PLUS – don’t forget the incredible versatility and taste
sensation of ORIGINAL MAGGI® Liquid Seasoning.
pod16732
New
Give your dishes all the fantastic flavourburst of our
original Liquid Seasoning with a SPICY NEW SPIN!
Flavour of the month
Flavour of the
Month
A round-up of new products,
food trends and what’s happening
on menus around SA.
Rich’s new products
Rich’s has created a number of delicious new products for you to try out. Try the Royal
Danish Crowns, new to the Freezer-to-Oven product range, and in four delicious
flavours – raspberry with cream cheese, kiwi with cream cheese, apple with custard
and pineapple with custard. Cheese Twists can also be baked from frozen and offer a
savoury snack for guests without the fuss. Danish dough is filled with maple syrup and
pecan nuts in the heavenly-looking and tasting Rich’s Maple and Pecan Danish Plaits;
and Rich’s well-known croissants are taken up a notch with two new filled varieties –
chocolate and cheese. Call 0860-0-RICHS for more details.
Keeping Current
Catering trends from
By Word of Mouth
Karen Short, founder of By
Word of Mouth, describes
these as the must-have
catering trends this summer:
• Give iced popsicles (alcoholic
and non-alcoholic) to guests
upon arrival instead of a drink
– experiment with flavours or
freeze herbs or edible flowers
inside them.
• Buffets are out, food
stations are in – guests can
enjoy a seated starter, helping
themselves from themed food
stations for mains or desserts.
Popular themes are Indian
street food; Mexican tacos;
tapas with cured meats; a fry
bar with calamari, tempura
and shrimp popcorn; comfort
food stations; mash and stew stations; pot pie stations;
crepe stations; doughnut tree; flavoured sweet
popcorn; and flavoured waffle stations.
• Gourmet burgers are still in, but keep it fresh with a
trio of sliders – a turkey burger, a seared tuna burger
and a fillet and foie gras burger.
• Food trolleys are also in – imagine a soup trolley being
pushed through the venue.
• At a lunch function or wedding, set up an iced coffee
bar, latte bar or Don Pedro bar for an
afternoon pick-me-up.
8 | CHEF! Issue 32
Spruce up your salads
Sunflower Shoots
The warmer weather inevitably means that salad sales skyrocket. You
can jazz up your salads, making them tastier, more interesting and more
nutritious by adding sunflower shoots to the mix, and you can easily
make them yourself. With a refreshing crunch, sunflower shoots are
said to be similar to daikon radish sprouts and add an extra textural and
colour element to salads or sandwiches. They’re best eaten when newly
sprouted with just 2 leaves – pair with a fruity olive oil and a squeeze of
lemon with parmesan for a simple salad, or use in a sandwich with cream
or goat’s cheese. Here’s how to grow them yourself:
1. Rinse whole, unshelled sunflower seeds with plenty of cold
water, then drain and place in a bowl.
2. Cover with cool water (at least 300ml water for ever 100ml of
seeds), using a plate to keep the seeds submerged, and let soak
for 12-18 hours in a cool spot then drain and discard water.
3. Spread about 2cm of lightly moistened soil in a wide shallow
dish, spread the just-soaked seeds evenly over the surface and
cover them with a light layer of soil. Water the soil moderately
and cover the dish with a piece of plastic wrap, leaving one
side slightly loose so that air can circulate and prevent mould.
4. Place the dish in a dark, moderately warm and humid place
(or cover the plastic with newspaper), keeping the seeds moist
by spraying them with water once or twice a day. As soon as
the first shoots appear, remove the plastic covering and bring
into the light (though avoid direct sunlight) and keep moist.
5. When the shoots are 5-10cm they are ready to be eaten – they
are best when young. Cut the shoots near the root using
scissors, rinse with water and enjoy fresh.
Klooven
burg’s
Chilli an
d Garlic
olives are
the perfe
ct
addition
to any ta
p
a
s
menu an
d retail
at R37.
Food Hero
Junipa’s Artisanal Coffee
We chat with Mark Smith, master roaster
for Junipa’s Coffee Roastery. The beans
are sold wholesale as well as to the public,
and you can reach them on
www.junipas.co.za or (011) 706 2387.
What is your favourite coffee blend at
the moment and why?
It is a mix of two different Ethiopian
regional coffees. It is very smooth and
full-bodied with hints of buttered honey
and a sweet aftertaste.
Why should establishments support
artisanal coffee roasters?
Like any industry its’ backbone is the
small business, in this case the artisanal
coffee roasters. Usually, it is the small
roasters that set the trends and often have
standards of service and product that the
big companies can't match.
Can you explain the roasting process?
Coffee roasting is the process where raw
coffee beans are exposed to heat. As the
coffee bean heats up, the properties inside
such as the acids, proteins and sugars,
are transformed to create the flavours we
associate with coffee.
How do you source your beans and are
they ethically/sustainably grown?
Our beans are bought from Seven Oaks
Trading and the coffee we stock is from
Africa, Central and South America. They
carry a really good range of coffees and
are always finding exceptional beans. My
current favourite beans are a single origin
‘El Potrero’ from the Antigua region
of Guatemala
and two African
coffees I’m busy
playing with, an
‘Ugandan Bugisu’
and a ‘Cameroon
Kouoptamo’.
Italy’s best kept secret
Culatello
“It isn’t just meat, it's myth” is
Massimo Bottura, Italian three
star Michelin chef ’s description
of his country’s best kept secret.
Culatello is not a name often heard outside Italy but it seems to be one of those
rare topics Italians agree on: it is their best ham.
Although the increased interest in culatello is fairly recent the king of Italian
hams has been produced for centuries with a first official reference found in
documents of the Parma municipality in 1735. Since 2009 a consortium has
been in place to protect and promote the quality of the ham that also holds an
EU Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status.
Culatello di Zibello is strictly produced from pigs that have been born and
raised in the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions. Furthermore, the whole
leg is not used but only the heart, the muscular inner part of the pigs’ thigh.
The meat is deboned, massaged with pepper, garlic and wine, then rubbed with
salt and placed in a pig’s bladder before it is wrapped into its characteristic pear
shape with twine.
Much of this ham’s delicate sweetness is determined by the minimum 12
month aging process that depends on a very specific climate - long cold foggy
winters and torrid sunny summers. The temperature in culatello cellars are
not artificially regulated, instead producers rely on traditional techniques like
growing ivy to achieve the perfect temperatures and humidity.
Massimo Spigaroli, Michelin star chef and one of Italy’s most famous culatello
producers explains that unlike other hams culatello requires constant minding with the
producer knowing exactly when to open cellar windows to let in the misty breeze from
the Po to aid the noble moulds or when to keep away heat and humidity.
As this ham requires such a specific terroir and micro climate the
production area for culatello di Zibello PDO is very small and can only
take place in the foggy flatlands surrounding the Po River including the
communes off Busseto, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, Soragna, Roccabianca,
San Secondo, Sissa and Colorno. Producers believe the closer to the Po
River the better the ham.
A well aged culatello should be hard to the touch
and to prepare it the twine is first removed and
then the ham is briefly rinsed. Next the skin
is removed and the ham is wrapped in a wine
soaked cloth for a few days before slicing it very
thinly by hand.
Unlike its famous cousin Parma ham, culatello is
not paired with sweet fruit or accompaniments.
Purists believed it should at most be enjoyed on
a slice of bread with butter to fully appreciate
the ham’s silkiness, nuanced flavour and
understated elegance.
Adele Stiehler is the
Head Chef of Prue
Leith Chef ’s Academy
and is fascinated by the
intricacies and history
that is brought to the
table by each ingredient.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 9
Flavour of
the month
Chef
Profile
On trend...
Savoury Marshmallows
Popping up on menus around
South Africa, savoury marshmallows
are a great element to add to
your plate. Team a horseradish
marshmallow with beef, rosemary
with lamb or brown butter and
sage marshmallow with pork.
A chilli-flavoured marshmallow
goes well with an Asian dish, an
avocado marshmallow in salad or
a spicy cinnamon marshmallow
served with a pumpkin soup. Also,
don’t feel you need to stick to the
traditional marshmallow texture –
you can go for denser, nougat-like
marshmallows or a looser, creamy
marshmallow as a dish topping.
Belle’s Patisserie in Illovo, Gauteng
is on-trend this summer with a
range of colourful pastries. Rainbow
cakes are in, as well as macarons in
bright colours with fruity flavours
– think tangerine, purple, maritime
blue and Kelly green. Mix neutrals
with colourful treats for an eyepopping display, or serve singlecoloured bright macarons in a clear
vase as your centrepiece.
Col’Cacchio introduces the
Summer Skinny, a pizza with a
hole in the middle filled with
fresh salad. The Pizza Foro
range comes in an assortment
of flavours and are less than 515
calories, using less mozzarella
than the traditional pizza and
offering guests a guiltfree dining option.
On the Shelf…
My 100 Favourite Herbs
Food in Jars
Margaret Roberts | Struik | R220
Marisa McClellan |
Running Press | R289
South African herb doyenne Margaret Roberts showcases
her favourite herbs in this book, how to grow them and
where to use them in the kitchen. It’s a practical book and
perfect for those chefs who’re looking to create a kitchen
garden, spruce up an existing vegetable patch or even just
looking for out-of-the-ordinary inspiration as to the wide
scope of herbs available out there. There
is much, much more to herbs than just
rocket, basil and coriander – try amaranth
in your bread or with spinach, make a
delicious carnation syrup for pancakes,
lucerne in stews, soups and stirfries, and
poppy petals with ice cream or creamy
puddings. This book will certainly show
you how to think outside the box when
you’re planning your menu.
An ode to preserving, this book is
just wonderful. Written by American
flood blogger Marisa McClellan, there are
loads of interesting and unusual recipes to try out – deck
your breakfast table out with homemade jams such as
vanilla rhubarb with earl grey, peach plum and ginger or
nectarine and lime. Swirl fruit butters through yoghurt,
in flavours such as blueberry or pear, or
put a dollop of green tomato chutney with
cheddar cheese and use cranberry chutney
on a sandwich instead of mustard. Create
salsas and relishes, utilising the best
seasonal bounty and preserving it for your
guests and adding a unique touch of flair
to your menus and tables.
Limoncello and Linen Water
Tessa Kiros | Murdoch Books | R375
This is a gentle, enveloping book – Tessa Kiros has put together all of the stories, the recipes, the household
hints and tips that her mother in law and other matriarchal figures in her life have given to her. While there
are a few things that you probably won’t use as a chef (such as linen spray), there are a number of unusual
as well as simple recipes that all take it back to basics. Penne with calamari, zucchini and their flowers;
rabbit, pancetta and rosemary pâté; risotto with pears and pecorino; and quince jelly are all found in this
trousseaux. What is wonderful about each recipe is that it comes with a story, given to Tessa and now told to
the reader.
10 | CHEF! Issue 32
Get
e festive
th
to
in
at the Taste
season spirit
, taking place
of Christmas
burg at the
in Johannes
ome from
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er.
7-9 Decemb
SASSI Ambassador Chef
Jackie Cameron
Duo of Trout
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Aside from being voted one of South Africa’s top young
chefs, Jackie Cameron is also a champion of a different sort.
The brilliant head chef of Hartford House in Mooi Rivier
in the Kwazulu-Natal Midlands has recently committed
to being a champion for sustainable seafood as well.
She will be working closely with the World Wide Fund
for Nature’s Southern African Sustainable Seafood
Initiative (WWF-SASSI) to promote sustainable seafood
as the most savvy seafood choice amongst consumers.
Jackie’s commitment to sustainability stems from a deeprooted love of her craft. “As a young chef, my passion
is food. One day when I have a family, I would love to
share that passion with my children and I can’t imagine
not being able to serve them a perfectly seared piece
of kingklip. It would be a tragedy if that texture and
flavour were lost forever.”
Being from Kwazulu-Natal, Jackie’s favourite WWFSASSI green-listed species is farmed South African
rainbow trout. Aside from being a fantastic substitute for
Norwegian Salmon, which does unfortunately fall on the
orange list, choosing this species of seafood will also serve
to support the many local farms in Kwazulu-Natal who
produce this species. Fish on the green list are considered
the most sustainable choice while there is reason for
concern if a specie is included in the orange list.
“There is a misconception about trout from the
Midlands”, says Jackie. “This misconception centres
around what this species should taste like.
However, there are brilliant farms in
Candere
the Midlands who are taking trout
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15g smoked trout
1g crushed garlic
1ml chopped fennel
1ml chopped chives
2.5ml freshly
squeezed lemon juice
8g grated onion
30g cream cheese
10ml of lightly
whipped cream
• Salt and freshly
ground black pepper
• 1.5ml horseradish crème (optional)
• Smoked salmon trout -40-50g, cut 10x6cm pieces
Flake the trout into small pieces (chef ’s note: when using
trout lightly pan sear in butter to allow easy flaking).
Add the garlic, fennel, chives, lemon juice and onion to the
trout. Finish with the cream cheese, cream and horseradish
amount. Take mixture and divide it into four amounts. Place
the smoked salmon trout on a large piece of plastic. Pipe
or spoon this mixture down the centre-lengthways- of your
smoked salmon trout and with the help of the plastic, roll
the smoked salmon trout over and around the trout spread.
Tie the one side and continue rolling on the surface and then
secure tightly to form a long, thin, duo of trout cylinder.
Place in the fridge until you need to plate.
WWF-SASSI is all about making sustainable seafood
choices where it counts – whether it’s while you’re on
your weekly grocery shopping trip or in the restaurant
before ordering your favourite seafood dish. The
initiative’s seafood sustainability list makes choosing
sustainable seafood really simple by categorising your
favourite seafood according to a robot colour coding
system; Red includes unsustainable species and those
that are illegal to buy or sell in South Africa (the
message to consumers is that they should not buy these
species), Orange includes species that have reasons for
concern so think twice before buying these, and Green
indicates the best choices from the most sustainable
and well managed species available. Making sustainable
seafood choices is even easier with the ingenious
FishMS, which brings the list to
you via an SMS; text the name of
the fish to 079-499-8795, and you
will get an immediate response to
either tuck in, think twice or avoid
altogether. Article and photographs
supplied by Roxanne Abrahams
from WWF-SASSI.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 11
Q&A
Q&A
We ask experts to
answer your industryrelated questions.
Send questions to
sarah@shoutfactory.co.za
What are the standard cooking times for White/Brown Beef
Stock, Chicken Stock and Fish Stock?
White beef stock should be cooked for 6 to 8 hours, chicken stock for 2 to 4 hours,
fish stock from 20 minutes to 30 minutes and brown beef stock for 6 to 8 hours.
The main differences in preparation between a white meat stock and a brown meat
stock is that the bones are blanched before hand for white stock, whereas in brown
stocks the bones are caramelised beforehand with a Mirepoix to give the stock a
darker, richer and more intense flavour. It is important to skim the stock regularly
while the stock simmers as it will produce a clear stock because it removes the
impurities that cause the stock to become cloudy. These impurities can also cause
the stock to become sour or spoiled.
When the cooking process is complete, strain the stock and cool it down as quickly as
possible. Once it is cooled, transfer it to a sanitised plastic or metal container, cover it
and store in a fridge (up to a week) or freezer (for several months). Dewald Kotze
What is the legal size that crayfish can be sold at and when
are they in season?
The minimum legal size for West Coast Rock Lobster is 8cm and the minimum size
for East Coast Rock Lobster is 6.3cm. Measurements are taken from the tip of the
carapace (body) to where the tail section meets the solid body shell.
The West Coast Rock Lobster are on SASSI’s green list, meaning that they have the
healthiest and most well managed population that can handle current fishing pressure.
East Coast Rock Lobster are on SASSI’s orange list which means there is reason for
concern as they are being overfished and cannot sustain current fishing pressure.
Deep Sea Lobster are caught on a quantity quota basis and targeted by fishing vessels.
In certain areas the Lobster can also be caught when other fish species are targeted
and they are part of the by catch. By catch means the Lobster is not being specifically
targeted but other fish are being targeted, the Lobster is caught in the same nets as the
targeted fish species and can be kept for sale. In this case the Lobster is not the main
species on the quota.
Mozambican Rock Lobster, West Coast Rock Lobster, East Coast Rock Lobster,
American Rock Lobster and South Atlantic Rock Lobster are some of the Rock
Lobster species available for sale in South Africa.
A limited number of permits are awarded by the Department of Agriculture, Forestry
and Fisheries each year and are very much dependent on which region and area the
permit applies too. Recreational fishing permits can be purchased for people who
are not going to sell the Lobster and want to catch for their own consumption. A
Subsistence fishing permit needs to be purchased by communities who wish to
consume and or sell the Lobster for the benefit of the community in the area.
East Coast Rock Lobster caught by a recreational permit holder may be caught
from the 1st of March to the last day of October. The same applies to holders of a
subsistence fishing permit for the East Coast Rock Lobster. Any Lobster that is in
berry must be returned to the water, in berry meaning that the Lobster is carrying roe/
eggs under the tail. West Coast Rock Lobster may be caught by recreational permit
holders during dates usually starting in the middle of January to the end of the first
week on April then again from the middle of November to the middle of December.
Dates do vary yearly so when purchasing a recreational fishing permit the correct dates
for catching Lobster must be checked. Mark Smith
12 | CHEF! Issue 32
Panel of Experts
Dewald Kotze
Centre for Culinary Excellence
www.saca.co.za or
(011) 482 7250
Mark Smith
La Marina
www.lamarinafoods.co.za
or (011) 608 3277
Bill Gallagher
billg@tsogosun.com
Manfred Muellers
manfredm@uj.ac.za
How do you become a
Master Chef?
The term “Master Chef” has been allowed
to be misused by many advertisers,
promotional companies, chefs and the
media. The title has been elevated to a
marketing term, but its original meaning
was to identify someone capable of
teaching the science and art of culinary
theory and practice. The original term
was Kuechen Meister, Maitre Cuisinier or
Master Chef, and was created to denote a
chef qualified and experienced enough to
identify a potential candidate to be trained
as a chef. These Master Chefs signed
apprentices’ certificates and to safeguard
this process, needed to take a theoretical
and practical examination first overseen
by the highest recognised professional and
educational qualifications body in the
country.
To even qualify for this exam, the chef
needed to have many years of relevant
experience in both hot and cold kitchens, as
well as a limited degree of pastry experience,
in a recognised establishment. He or she
also needed to have qualified as a chef,
completing studies from a recognised
professional/educational institution. Today,
chefs can still take exams to qualify as a
Master Chef (though unfortunately not in
South Africa yet), with relevant bodies such
as City & Guilds London Institute and
various Hotel Schools in conjunction with
professional Chefs Associations, a Chamber
of Commerce or educational institution
in their relevant country . The World
Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) will
be releasing their Master Chefs criteria at the
beginning of 2013, ensuring that the criteria
to be a Master Chef are the same worldwide.
Bill Gallagher and Manfred Muellers
Proud suppliers to the
food service industry
Oil Management System
Icematic
CAPE TOWN - DURBAN - HARARE - JOHANNESBURG - EMAIL: info@macbrothers.co.za - WEB: www.macbrothers.co.za
opinion
Our three industry experts tell it like it is in their opinion columns.
Knights in White Satin
I
used to think McDonalds was
in the hamburger business. On
reflection I suppose it was an easy
mistake to make. All the clues were
there, the menu boards with the Big
Macs and Mc Cheeseburgers lovingly
photoshopped, the ridiculous ice-laden
jumbo cooldrinks, the ever present waft of French fries and the impossible-toopen sachets of tomato ketchup – it was
a no-brainer, I thought, these guys are
burger hawkers!
Then I read the book Behind the Arches
and I learnt that McDonalds owned all
their properties which they then leased
back to the franchisees and that they
actually perceived themselves as being
in the property business. The burgers
were only the vehicle to encourage
people to rent their property. It was an
interesting proposition and suddenly it
all made perfect sense, helping to clear up
something else which had been bugging
me for some time.
When I first started in the kitchen,
chef ’s jackets and those inhabiting them
were consigned to hot, dingy dungeons,
working unsociable hours, relentlessly
sweating and churning out plate after
plate of tasty morsels for discerning
diners. Then, slowly, the white jackets
started emerging from their kitchens and popping up in the public eye, speaking
to their guests tableside in restaurants,
giving culinary advice in glossy magazines
and newspapers, even appearing on radio
and television.
Suddenly there were white jackets,
and some really silly variations thereof,
everywhere. Where did all these chefs
come from? Every show that I went to
had more people in chef ’s jackets than
you could fit into Newlands at a Currie
Cup final. Every stand was populated by
all manner of folk in chef ’s jackets and
conversations were no longer about sous
chefs and executive chefs but celebrity
chefs and MasterChefs. Where did all these people come from,
I wondered? You see, I mistakenly
thought that many of the people that I
encountered regularly in the public eye
were chefs but I realised that it was only
the white jackets that were confusing
me. These clever folk must also have read
Behind the Arches and turned their newlyacquired knowledge to their advantage.
I’m not a chef, they’re saying, it’s only the
food and the white jacket that make you
think I’m a chef. I’m really a performer
or a TV presenter, a nuclear chemist or
a talk show host or just someone who
does incredibly silly things to attract your
attention and entertain you.
Scratch the surface and you’ll find that
lots of these pseudo chefs don’t really
know their o’s from their oo’s. Take the
current flavour of the month for example;
they think those little colourful buttons
of meringue delight are macaroons...
WRONG! They’re called macarons and
are totally different from macaroons and
if you don’t know the difference take
off your white jacket and go and look
it up because you’re making an oo’s of
yourself in knowledgeable company. The
other thing these scheisters learnt from
McDonalds was the value of a fresh
lick of paint and constant re-invention
coupled with lots of blowing your
own trumpet about how many burgers
you’ve sold. Yes, lots of blowing your
own trumpet keeps the people confused!
“Every stand was populated by all
manner of folk in chef ’s jackets
and conversations were no longer
about sous chefs and executive
chefs but celebrity chefs and
MasterChefs. Where did all these
people come from, I wondered?”
With extensive catering experience both locally and abroad, Brian McCune is a World Association
of Chefs Societies (WACS) accredited judge and has held the position of Culinary Team SA Captain
and then Manager. Together with his wife Teresa, he currently owns and operates the Food Biz in
Cape Town and you can find his culinary musings on http://kitschnzinc.blogspot.com.
14 | CHEF! Issue 32
Back to Basics
D
riving in the relentless snow
through the KwaZulu-Natal
Midlands in August showed me
just how reliant I was on one of our most
widely-used forms of energy – electricity.
The saga began on my return trip from
Jo’burg. Usually it’s quicker - and easier - to
drive from Mooi River rather than to fly
from Pietermaritzburg or Durban, but
this trip back was a 9½ hour nightmare
through the heaviest snow storm I have
ever experienced. During the drive home,
I experienced such longing for the cosy
ambience my home offers with under-floor
heating and a warm bed, not knowing that
for the next six days I’d be deprived of the
luxuries I had come to take for granted. My
saving graces that night were three duvets
and my cat Mallow.
The next day wasn’t much better – the
deafening thud of snow from the trees
above my cottage falling on to the
corrugated iron roof kept me awake most
of the night and at sunrise the dawn chill
went straight through my bones. However,
the biggest challenge for the day ahead
wasn’t the cold or the lack of sleep and
cold – we were low on staff and not only
did I have cooking demonstrations and
an International Food and Wine Society
dinner, but we had the day-to-day kitchen
chores to accomplish.
Clad in my chef’s whites I stepped out of
my house and sunk almost knee deep into
the snow. Clearly, this wasn’t going to be a
day for sissies. After extricating my car from
the snow, I eventually arrived at work after
midday to find that Hartford House had
also suffered the ravages of the snow storm;
my sous chef Elaine was late for duty as two
trees in her garden had landed on her car.
I was taken back to my training over the
next six days when as much as possible had
to be done by hand because we had very
little electricity. I found muscles in my body
I’d forgotten I had while whisking, kneading
and beating. And, producing choux pastry
for profiteroles for a more-than-a-metrehigh croque-en-bouche with no electricity
was no joke.
Everything took so much longer to prepare
because time was spent on simple tasks that
were normally far quicker with electricity.
Thankfully we were incredibly impressed
with how successful our gas-cooked scones
turned out to be.
To top it all off we had a wedding at
Hartford House that weekend - and the
bride had chosen an unusual dinner menu
with a lot of homely platters of food.
Normally our mains wouldn’t require
an electric oven, but we had hundreds
of Yorkshire puddings to make and just
before service, the generator died. This took
cooking by candlelight to another level.
That evening I thought the universe was
seriously testing our culinary skills, but we
took the challenges and overcame them.
We were all working harder, faster and
cleverer than before.
The kitchen team was put up at the hotel
over the six days but we couldn’t even enjoy
the five star luxury properly because, with
no electricity, we couldn’t have a relaxing
post-service bath! Having to adhere to a
bath-time roster was a small issue really, but
by day six we were all desperate to bath in
our own homes. A happy chef means happy
guests and this irritation was taking its toll
on our usually happy kitchen team. You can
imagine my joy when finally on day six, the
warm glow of lights welcomed me home to
my cottage.
The week delivered a record amount of
snow for the area, as well as an actionpacked, trying time for the Hartford House
team. But as we reverted to the basics of
cooking and serving, we were glad to have
the fundamental principles and techniques
of cooking up our sleeves. Clearly, you never
know when you may need them.
“I found muscles in my body I’d
forgotten I had while whisking,
kneading and beating, and
producing choux pastry for
profiteroles for a more-than-a-metrehigh croque-en-bouche with no
electricity was no joke.”
Jackie Cameron is the Executive Chef of Hartford House in KwaZulu-Natal’s Midlands, voted
one of South Africa’s Top 20 restaurants in the Eat Out Awards. Jackie is also a judge in the
annual Eat In awards, which recognises small South African producers. Visit www.hartford.co.za.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 15
opinion
Show me the Money
I
am sure that you had the same career
advice as me. Some jaded teacher
at high school stared at you over his
battered spectacles, didn’t he? Then he
dropped the bombshell: if you choose a
career as a chef, it was akin to a life of slavery,
servitude and no money. Then, armed with
this sage advice, you still decided to cook for
a living, such was your commitment and
passion for the culinary arts.
We know there are easier ways to earn
your daily bread, but are chefs really
poorly paid? Do they have prospects of
bringing in the big bucks? How do you
negotiate a better deal?
The good news is that earnings in our
industry can be very attractive. The
top tier of executive chefs can earn
great money in South Africa and have
prospects globally. Self-employment
opportunities are excellent in our
industry and that can either put you in
the mega-wealthy bracket or in the poor
house if your business fails.
An aspirant chef is not going to earn
much more than minimum wage when
starting out, which is why it is important
to choose an employer and a mentor
carefully. Think career, not job. This
period should be considered a two to
three year investment in future earning
potential. Only work with the best and
associate with the best. Stronger roots
grown and nurtured at this part of a
culinary career will benefit from higher
salaries later. In the early stages of a chef ’s
career there is a temptation to earn a few
extra grand. There are establishments,
especially restaurants, that will pay more.
My advice to aspirant food heroes is to
forego instant gratification, the shiny
car and the iPad. Don’t be tempted by
money unless it will have a positive effect
on a future career. To be honest, during
a chefs’ formative years he or she could
earn twice the amount flipping burgers.
So will it be a job or a career?
I am often asked to send salary
information to employers as a guideline.
This is a hard task because of the use and
misuse of chefs’ titles and designations.
For instance, a sous chef at one
establishment can earn more than an
executive chef in a small restaurant. Title
means very little when it comes to setting
salary levels, so a chef should not expect
money based on the level of position. An
executive chef who has purely worked in
popular restaurants is not on the same
level as an executive chef at a well-known
five star hotel.
It is vital for a chef to establish a personal
brand, notoriety will bring a chef better
negotiating power on his salary. An
eighteen hour work day is not a reason to
expect more money. Hard work is what
a chef does, what an employer wants is
tangible results. So if a chef is making
his business cash through efficiency, food
cost control and bums in seats then he
or she is well placed to negotiate a better
deal. A chef using his personal brand
to promote his employers business and
help to bring in the bucks is in a strong
negotiating position with his boss. If a
chef is considered a “Rainmaker” then
an employer will not want that asset
to leave. A chef who has a case that he
or she is invaluable enough should not
be afraid to knock on the door and say
“Boss, I want a raise.”
A personal brand is a culinary
professional’s most important negotiating
tool, personal reputation can make or
break, your career.
Oh, and if you would like to know,
there are executive chefs in South Africa
enjoying annual packages of over R1
million. Just don’t tell anyone you heard
it from me. Does it pay to work hard and
smart? You bet it does.
"My advice to aspirant food heroes
is to forego instant gratification, the
shiny car and the iPad. Don’t be
tempted by money unless it will have
a positive effect on a future career."
Stephen Hickmore not only runs Hickmore Recruitment but he is also an associate of the
Hospitality Solutions Company (HSC), a prominent supplier of staff to 5 star hotels and
hospitality industry in Johannesburg. Stephen can be reached on www.hospitality.co.za or
hickmore@iafrica.com.
16 | CHEF! Issue 32
F
ounded by owner and
managing director Chef Louise
Oldham, the Chefs Training
and Innovation Academy (CTIA) is
a chef training school that sets out to
provide quality culinary training for
everyone, from an elementary fry cook
to an entry-level graduate with an
eye on a 5 star hotel restaurant. Both
Louise and Chef Morné Ströh, CTIA’s
Managing Principal, have spent many
years in the hospitality industry and this
experience, as well as speaking to chefs
and establishments in South Africa, has
helped them to design a curriculum that
will address a number of issues that they
feel many graduates aren’t equipped for.
“The culinary training environment
in South Africa, like the Hospitality
Industry, is going through an exponential
growth spurt and it doesn’t matter to
what extent we increase or expand our
programmes, we never seem to meet
the demand for culinary training in our
areas. We’ve been very fortunate in the
sense that we’ve seen a 600% increase
on our student numbers in the last three
years, and a lot of those are word-ofmouth enrolments,” says Morné.
Louise also saw the need to provide more
quality culinary schools in the Pretoria
area as well as the North West, Free State
and Limpopo provinces. When asked
why they decided to open branches
around the country, Morné says, “We’ve
been inundated with clients asking for
this, that and the other from these areas
and asking when we are coming to these
areas. Basically, the prospective CTIA
learners in these areas made the decision
for us!” He is most excited about the
launch of the Bloemfontein campus
which will be situated on Haldon
Estate and will one day be the flagship
CTIA training venue. This unusual
location allows the school to fully live
out its innovative curriculum – students
can plant and harvest fresh produce,
actively learning about sustainability and
integrating it in to a culinary lifestyle.
The Estate also has a guest house which
means that students will receive on-site,
industry training in front-of-house and
Food and Beverage services, and students
will also have student accommodation.
Morné believes that what defines CTIA
as a training provider is their quality
of training. “The finicky selection of
lecturers, all our programmes’ content
(especially the practicum lessons), our
daily operations, everything that we do
really, orbits around one pivotal nucleus:
quality culinary training. All our activities
are marshalled by our key training motto,
‘training first’” says Morné.
but rather the way in which the product
is presented. Next year they’ll be
launching their National Mentorship
Programme, the first step of which
was taken last year when prominent
chefs Martin Kobald, Michelle da
Silva, Natasha Fernandes, and Dilene
and Trevor Boyd became the first
ambassadors for the school to assist
students in industry and raise CTIA’s
brand awareness.
CTIA has created its own curriculum to
accompany the City & Guilds accredited
Culinary Arts curriculums. Morné says
that this addition provides the trainee
chef an industry-specific, in-depth and
encompassing skills foundation, giving
them refined hard and soft skills that
equip them for the workplace.
Some of these curriculum subjects,
which were requested by the head
chefs that were polled, include
‘conscious cooking’ and environmental
and sustainable issues, culinary
entrepreneurship, and Workplace
Readiness Programmes for example.
These additions ensure that graduates
are more industry-ready. CTIA’s
Advanced Patisserie Programme sets out
to teach learners complex techniques
and is taught in the real-time industry
environment by South African pastry
chef Dilene Boyd.
Currently in their third year of business,
the school has refined their offering
to meet student and industry needs,
although Morné believes that they
haven’t transformed their end-product,
SA Chefs Training and
Innovation Academy
Centurion: Shop 1, Lakeside Building
A, Heuwel Avenue, Centurion
Cape Town: Protea Hotel, Vineyards
Estate, Tyger Valley, 99 Jip de Jager
Drive, Vineyards Office Estate
Bloemfontein: Haldon Estate,
Speserylaan 1, Kwaggafontein,
Bloemfontein | (012)643 1500
info@cheftraining.co.za
www.cheftraining.co.za
CHEF! Issue 32 | 17
Training
SA Chefs Training and
Innovation Academy
Now in its third year of business
in Centurion, this SACA
Training Provider member is in
the process of opening branches
across the country in Cape Town,
Nelspruit and Bloemfontein.
Chef Profile
Garth Shnier
With an extensive career in the South African
hospitality industry, as well as the greatest
culinary competitions in the world, Chef Garth
Shnier has worked in many of the country’s
notable kitchens. We chatted with the chef,
whom many of SA’s brightest young chefs credit
as a mentor, to find out more about him.
His career includes stints at the Mount Nelson under Garth
Stroebel and Michelangelo Hotel, heading up the Grill Room
and as Executive Chef respectively, then a move to Kleinmond
near Hermanus to take up the position of Executive Chef at the
Western Cape Hotel and Spa. After that he left to pursue his
own business interests, opening a culinary consultancy where he
consulted for a number of restaurants including Lekgotla and
The Venue, as well as clients such as the Department of Trade &
Industry, Coca-Cola, VWV, Makwetla, Gary Friedman Caterers
and Timbali Lodge in Swaziland. He has also had experience in
developing restaurant concepts and opening restaurants, designing
the kitchens of the Saxon Boutique Hotel, the Western Cape Hotel
& Spa and the Arabella Sheraton Grand Hotel.
He is currently the Executive Chef of the InterContinental
Johannesburg Sandton Towers and Sandton Sun, as well as
overseeing the food operation of the Sandton Convention Centre.
Since taking over this role, Garth has project managed the R90
million food and beverage refurbishment of the Sandton Sun.
He has also added an element of African fusion to the menu and
spearheaded the introduction of sustainable dining, where they aim
to source local fresh produce within a 50km radius of the hotel.
Who inspired you to become a chef?
As with many 14-year-olds trying to earn some pocket money,
I started out as a waiter at the local steakhouse. I can clearly
remember the classic Cordon Bleu and variations of Vienna
schnitzel. I often watched the hype and adrenaline in the kitchen
and, crazily, longed for this, often talking to the chefs in the change
rooms. I progressed to barman and manager, but had a definite
interest in the kitchen. I ended up in a Portuguese-Mozambican
restaurant which had strong family cooking traditions, and it was
this family that led me to a passion for taste and flavour and quality
of fresh produce, from fresh crabs to fresh dates, which I live for.
A
graduate of the Southern Sun Apprenticeship programme,
Garth has competed in no less than nine individual and
team culinary competitions around the world including
the Bocuse d’Or and Culinary Olympics. His experience in this
field led to him holding the position of International Competitions
Director on the SACA Board and later a position on the International
Culinary Committee of the World Association of Chefs Societies,
which he still holds.
18 | CHEF! Issue 32
There is more than one mentor whose path I’ve crossed, for
many different reasons. Garth Stroebel showed me that being
a chef is a highly professional and disciplined occupation and
then, while overseas, I was fortunate enough to work under
one of Germany’s leading kochmeisters, who taught me about
the passion of cooking. I still dream of those days in that hot
German kitchen where every ingredient was treated with
respect and the ever-changing seasons brought on new and
interesting produce. I felt that I could learn something
new every day.
How did you train to become a chef?
As a graduate of the Southern Sun In-House Training
Programme, I worked at most of the five-star units in the
group before moving on to the famous Arabella Grand in
Frankfurt, Germany. Coincidentally, having started my career
at Southern Sun, my first kitchen was the then brand new
Sandton Sun.
Do you actively set out to mentor young chefs?
Well, I wouldn’t say actively, but when I find genuine passion
and hunger among the students, I essentially have something to
work with. I identify their strengths and then try to guide them
in the same way that I was fortunate enough to be guided.
How difficult is it to balance the different styles of
cuisine offered by the Sandton Sun?
I am very fortunate to work with an awesome team! They are
well-oiled, eager to grow, learn and try out different concepts.
They truly recognise the opportunity to gain experience in
various aspects of the Sandton Sun operation from production,
deli, baking to exclusive chefs tables. It’s inspiring to see them
line up to volunteer for a big function or to work with one of
the visiting sports teams.
What is your advice to young chefs coming
into the industry?
Well, I have a few pieces of advice:
• When you climb the Himalayas there are a lot of ups and downs,
but when you climb slowly, every new step offers an experience of
a lifetime.
• Cuisine is not a routine - it’s a life experiment.
• “If you aren’t going give it all your dedication, don’t start it!”
What are your pet hates in the kitchen?
Major pet peeves in the kitchen are blunt knives, food made
without passion and lack of respect for whatever ingredient
is being used.
What dish do you wish you’d created?
Not a dish as such, but I wish I was the creator of the
versatile Demi Glace.
What are your favourite dishes on your current
menu?
I am very proud of our springbok with beet and pomegranate;
and there is always demand for the classic Chateaubriand.
What do you think about the current state of the
South African hospitality industry?
What is the proudest moment in your career
as a chef?
There have been many moments when I have been proud to be
a chef, but the most rewarding times are when I see the young
chef that I met on his first day in the kitchen graduating and then
spreading his wings to take on the world and prove that South
Africans have what it takes to achieve at the highest level. As for a
career-defining moment; I’m still striving for it.
Biggest kitchen disaster?
One of the biggest disasters was miscounting on a large
function - by about 50 portions!
From your long competition career, what moment
sticks out the most?
One of my most memorable moments was winning the Gold at the
2008 IKA Culinary Olympics with an awesome South African team.
Are there any ethical producers that you think are
doing a fantastic job?
There are hundreds of amazing local suppliers in this country,
from those producing farmed kabeljou, trout and sea bass to
local cheeses, yoghurts and, of course, wines and not forgetting
all the local producers of fruit and veggies. It’s extremely
rewarding to be involved with these suppliers – more people
should take advantage of our local produce.
chateaubriand
Served at the elegant Vin MMX restaurant, the Chateaubriand
is a favourite at Sandton Sun. To prepare this classic, take a
400g fillet and rub in salt, pepper and olive oil. Melt a generous
amount of butter in a pan on medium high heat and sear the
meat in a hot pan. Once seared on all sides, place the fillet onto
an oven safe rack and in a cooking pan. Roast in the oven until
the meat has reached an internal temperature of 50⁰ C. Use a
probe thermometer here to avoid opening the oven repeatedly
or use an instant read thermometer to check the temperature
after about 10 minutes. Once it has reached the ideal internal
temperature, remove from the oven and place on a warmed
platter. The temperature of the meat will continue to rise and you
will have a perfect fillet by the time you serve the meal. While
meat is resting prepare your demi-glace and Béarnaise sauce.
Serve on a bed of parsley and brinjal mash alongside seasonal
vegetables such as baby carrots, spinach and savoury cabbage.
We are lucky enough to be engaged in some great times within
SA’s hospitality industry. We have some incredible local chefs –
a very optimistic future ahead!
If there was one thing about being a chef in South
Africa that you could change, what would it be?
It would be for the ‘cheffing’ industry in South Africa to be
recognised as a real profession as it is in other countries
across the globe.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 19
Interest
Tarragon
on the Menu
Max Bothe
iHealth Meals
“I consider tarragon to be one of my favourite herbs, and its aniseed
taste lends itself extremely well to fish and poultry dishes. I especially
like to serve boneless and skinless chicken thighs off the braai with a
tarragon and pistachio pesto, accompanied by a shaved fennel, apple
and celery salad with baked goat’s cheese. To make the pesto, I blend
parsley, 2 tablespoons of fresh tarragon, 2 tablespoons of raw unsalted pistachios,
lemon juice, fresh garlic and olive oil, with a bit of water to loosen it up.”
Tanja Kruger
Makaron Restaurant
at Majeka House
“We grow French
tarragon in our garden
at Majeka House and
use it in a classical
way - Béarnaise sauce. We reduce
homemade tarragon vinegar with
chopped shallots, then add it to free
range egg yolks and cook over a bainmarie, slowly adding butter to make
the emulsified sauce. We add some
chopped tarragon right at the end
before serving with a pasture-reared
rib eye on the bone, French beans and
spicy onion rings. There is nothing
better than good quality steak served
with a classic sauce and to my mind
this is the best use of this potent herb.
To make the tarragon vinegar, sterilise
a glass bottle, add 2 whole cloves of
garlic and 10 stalks of tarragon to
the bottle and fill with white wine
vinegar. Leave to stand for at least two
weeks before use.”
Ryan Shell
Peter
Gottgens
Asara Wine Estate
and Hotel
“Tarragon is
not generally
well utilised and
often one of the
forgotten herbs
in the modern
culinary world,
which is a pity
as it has a lovely aromatic property
reminiscent of anise. Generally I’d
use tarragon with chicken or fish
- specifically salmon. In one of my
favourite fish dishes incorporating
this herb, I purée ½ cup fresh
tarragon leaves, ⅓ cup chives, shallot,
¾ cup parsley, 150ml homemade
mayonnaise, ⅓ cup rice vinegar and
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard until it
forms a smooth sauce. I serve with
salmon, poached in white wine and
water, and boiled new potatoes."
Fresh tarragon should be used
sparingly as it’s a powerful
herb with a lot of character,
but this doesn’t mean you
shouldn’t use it. We asked
top chefs how they’re using
tarragon on their menus to
give you a few ideas.
Scott Rattray
Singita Boulders
Lodge
“I make a tarragon
quinoa salad. Here
artichokes, quinoa
and edamame beans are prepared
beforehand. I then whisk together
orange zest, lemon juice and olive oil
and stir in the tarragon leaves. Fresh
tarragon leaves are then tossed through
the salad to impart their distinctive
anise-like flavour. If growing tarragon,
ensure you have French tarragon seeds
and not the Russian variety, as you may
as well chew on grass if you don’t!”
Nicky King
Fancourt Hotel
“I created tarragon
sorbet by chance as I
was cooking apples one
day. Some tarragon fell
into the pot and I loved
the amazing flavour combination,
so was inspired to create a Tarragon
Sorbet to serve with Apple Tart. First
I bring milk, sugar and salt to the boil
in a saucepan. Then I add washed and
chopped fresh tarragon and allow it
to infuse for one hour. I then pass the
mixture through a sieve before pouring
the mixture into an ice cream machine,
allowing the sorbet to set before serving
with a fresh slice of apple tart.”
Haute Cabriere Cellar Restaurant
“We serve a brandy, prune and walnut pudding with a tarragon ice cream, made using dried
tarragon. To make the ice cream, mix 40g castor sugar and 2 egg yolks together until the sugar has
dissolved then add 150ml of slightly-warmed milk slowly. Make sure not to boil the milk before
adding it, it must just be warm enough to have steam rising off the top. Return the egg and milk
mixture to the heat and stir continuously until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from the pot and let cool, then add 5g dried tarragon. Put it in the freezer and whisk every
20 minutes, then whisk 150ml of cream and add to the rest of the mixture. Place it back in the freezer and continue to whisk
every 20 minutes until it is frozen and smooth.”
20 | CHEF! Issue 32
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interest
Australian
Food Adventure
After two weeks in Australia
I have returned home with
pure joy and inspiration in my
heart. The journey to Sydney
and Melbourne reflected my
desire to showcase quality
cuisine, localised eating and
integrity on a plate.
by Jodi-Ann Pearton
I
t is hard to describe on paper what
words cannot say. The emotional
connection that I felt on my journey
was nothing short of magnificent. I
travelled to two very different parts of
Australia and was surprised by how chefs
and cooks are able to express themselves
even in the simplest ways.
In Sydney I was blessed to dine at Aria,
Matt Moran’s establishment. The restaurant
yields views of both the Sydney Opera
House and the harbour bridge, the
interior unique in that it is very simplistic
and basic in comparison to many a finedining establishment. From the moment
I walked into the restaurant I was treated
with absolute decorum. The maitre’d,
obviously well researched, knew that I was
a chef from South Africa (he could only
have found this out by doing a Google
search) and allowed me to take guided
tours through not only the kitchens but the
entire property.
The wine pairings were immaculate and the
food was dead simple – Matt Moran, like
almost every other chef in Australia, utilises
the best produce from his region and allows
it to talk for itself. I dined upon the seven
course tasting menu which included items
such as King Salmon ‘pastrami’ with crisp
rye and pickled vegetables; a pheasant
tasting plate; perfectly-cooked, succulent
snapper served with bouillabaisse; and
the most superb Peking duck consommé
which had tiny little dumplings, abalone
and shaved Chinese mushrooms hidden in
mouth-watering golden liquid. Succulent
pork belly and tender pink lamb made up
the meat dishes and the simplest, cleanest
dessert of coconut pannacotta served with
pineapple, macadamia nuts, blueberries
and mandarin sorbet to finish it off.
22 | CHEF! Issue 32
However, this attitude towards food was
not only found in the top-end dining
establishments; the meals that I had on the
go, from the simplest street vendor to the
street café, showed the same passion and
love on the plate.
I arrived in Melbourne having heard that it
was the so-called food capital of Australia
but nothing could have prepared me for
what I found. The city streets are lined and
packed full of cafés, bars and restaurants
like nothing I have ever seen in my life. The
café food is the equivalent to Quick Service
Restaurant fine dining! The city was an
endless maze for me. Being a foodie junkie,
every corner I turned held a new surprise.
There are cultural areas in every direction –
one minute I was walking through modern
Melbourne and two minutes later I found
myself in what was the equivalent of
ancient China.
My very first stop was the famous
Victoria Market. I hopped onto the
local tourist bus – a free service offered
to city visitors, which stops at the
top 14 tourist destinations and city
highlights in town, and it took me
straight there. I wandered around the
fresh food market sampling fabulous
local cheese, farm fresh fruit and
vegetables which all showcased seasonal
eating and dined upon delicious
Indian roti. You can find anything and
everything at the Victoria Market –
chefs from across the city purchase all
the produce from grains and spices to
cured meats and fresh shellfish at this
market.
I ate Yum Cha (dumplings) for Sunday
breakfast, slow braised chicken feet,
crispy tripe, fish dumplings, steamed
pork broth, sticky duck – you name it,
I tried it! There is a culture of sharing
food in Melbourne that transcends all
borders and cultures, and it is not strictly
between friends. I found this out quickly
when enjoying the best tapas I have ever
tasted after being invited by locals to
join in the festivities at various outlets.
They do not just do food – they do food
RIGHT.
Melbourne is a foodie's nemesis. There
is just too much extraordinary cuisine
to taste and its offerings are changing
all the time as the culture evolves. Every
Melbourner appreciates the joy of a
perfect plate, every chef savours their
produce and every restaurateur treasures
their establishment’s atmosphere.
Restaurants are simple and straight
forward; each one has its own integrity
and stands for what it believes in. I
stood in the rain in a queue of at least
60 people waiting to eat at a modern
Thai tapas bar called Chin Chin and let
me tell you the endless wait was worth
every second. I was squeezed into a tiny
space at the bar and with the assistance
of an amazing waitron made the very
tough decision on what to pick off the
authentic menu. The highlight of my
entire trip was eaten here – Kingfish
Sashimi with lime, chilli, coconut and
Thai basil. The flavour combinations on
this plate quite literally had me shaking
– so simple, so clean, yet so perfect. I
also tried their barbequed goat with
cucumber and mint raita; dry red curry
of soft shell crab with snakebeans, basil
and lemon leaf – this is the signature
dish that won Chin Chin the title of
most loved place to dine by Melbourne
locals. It wasn’t hard to see why - the
flavours of each mouthful were just so
big, bold and pungent. The music in
Melbourne’s establishments is upbeat
and the bars are focused yet substantial.
The food is simple but has more
localised integrity than I have ever seen,
and even food at huge functions was out
of this world.
When we refer to local cuisine and
finding our niche I have to say that it is
going to have to be a journey that we as
an industry begin to focus on together.
Melbourne has it right and the industry
there has taken the consumer to a new
height of foodie passion. The chefs are
not afraid to try new things and explore
big flavours and unusual combinations.
This makes for a quirky and delicious
dining experience no matter where
you go. The food is expensive but the
consumer lives for it – once again
reiterating that if we can get it right our
consumer will pay a premium for it!
I cannot wait to see more of this joyful
cuisine culture be created upon our
shores, changing the lives of millions as it
changed mine in a fortnight.
interest
Eat your Greens
Vegetarianism and Veganism is on the rise – find out how to equip your menu
with dishes delicious enough to appeal to both veggies and meat-eaters.
Lifestyle choices, ethical reasons, health and cost awareness are some of the reasons
that many South Africans have omitted meat from their diet. Rather than choosing
from a sad, cobwebbed section of the menu with just a half-hearted salad or
pasta on offer, these diners are going out of their way to find inventive, tasty
and creative vegetarian options where the vegetable isn’t treated as second-class.
Remember, there are hundreds of varieties of vegetables and herbs, so there’s no
excuse for being uncreative.
Beans, Pulses and Legumes
Grains
Add bulk to dishes using a variety of beans, pulses and legumes. The
earthy flavour of lentils give weight to soups or stews when boiled
and Puy lentils are on trend – a great addition to salads. Try a butter
bean mash instead of regular potatoes for a silky, sophisticated result,
and red kidney beans retain their shape when cooking so they’re
perfect for veggie burgers, as the star of a stew or added to soups.
Chickpeas are nutty and can be used in many ways other than
hummus: give falafel balls your personal twist, slow roast and sprinkle
on salads and soups for a bit of crunch, or use chickpeas as the star of
a vegetarian curry.
Healthy grains such as quinoa, bulgar wheat,
tabbouleh and barley are in vogue at the moment,
and when combined with other ingredients they
make a healthy side dish or a light main meal.
These whole grains are rich in nutrients and taste,
and can easily be adapted to suit your style of
cooking. Add dried apricots, fresh mint, dried
coriander and allspice for Moroccan cous cous.
Protein-rich quinoa has a delicate, nutty flavour –
roast it first for more flavour-depth, and use it in
a salad with flavours such as orange and cumin, or
with onion, tomato and cucumber for a refreshing
salad. Quinoa’s also great to use as a binder in
burgers or in bakes. Pasta is an easy choice for
vegetarian options but remember not to use eggs
in the pasta-making process if it’s intended for a
vegan. There are a wide variety of artisanal breads
that are appealing to omnivore and vegetarian
alike but, again, just make sure that there were no
animal-products used to make it.
Umami Vegetables
Meaty vegetables such as aubergine, butternut, sweet potato,
mushroom and tomatoes are a good star of any vegetarian meal
as they pack a flavour punch and are filling too. Many of these
vegetables contain Umami, the sixth flavour sense of ‘savoury’ so use
grilled aubergine in burgers, or bake and serve with a yoghurt sauce.
Mushrooms are always a favourite in a pasta sauce, but how about
using them in a vegetarian lasagne or grilling them whole with a herbed
ricotta or mozzarella stuffing? Roast butternut and use it in a salad, pair
with lentils for a veggie bobotie, halve and slow-roast with a variety
of stuffings or even bulk up a curry with this sweet squash. Use handmade, chunky, umami-filled tomato sauce for a variety of dishes such as
ratatouille (cook vegetables separately so that it doesn’t turn to mush),
vegetable lasagne, as a sauce with vegetarian meatballs or with gnocchi.
Vegetables as the Star
While there are many ways in which one can gussy up vegetables
to create dishes, there is something to be said for simplicity. Fresh,
organic and ethically-produced vegetables need very little done to
them as they are flavour-packed on their own. Young carrots parboiled are sweet enough without honey, broccoli is perfect quickly
steamed with a sprinkling of toasted almonds, fresh cabbage is
delicious finely-sliced and raw, or quickly sautéed with a bit of butter,
and fresh baby spinach is beautiful just wilted in olive oil.
24 | CHEF! Issue 32
Dairy
While this isn’t suitable for vegans (although there
are some great vegan cheeses available) the rise
in artisanal cheese and dairy producers in South
Africa mean that chefs have more choice than
ever when it comes to dairy. Use these handmade
cheeses as the star of your dish: tear up buffalo
mozzarella onto a salad, create your own yoghurt
and spoon over baked vegetables or fruit, create
an unforgettable cheeseboard or bake whole
camembert for a starter. Ricotta is easy to make
and very versatile – use it in tomatoey bakes,
mix with herbs and stuff it into grilled aubergine
rounds, and drizzle ricotta with honey and dukkah
and serve with figs for an opulent breakfast dish.
Nuts
Eggs
Vegan-friendly dairy-replacements can be made relatively easily
using nuts – blend water, cashews and a little sugar for cream,
or add more water for nut milk. One can use the product to
make creamy gravies or sauces for pasta, as a milk replacement
for muesli or fruit salads, or a thick version with added herbs
for a dip. In fact, you can use a variety of nuts to make milk –
almonds, brazil nuts and hemp seeds are all good options. Nuts
can also be used as part of a crumble, as the main ingredient in a
loaf or meatball-type application, or in a terrine.
Again, not suitable for vegans, but eggs aren’t just for
breakfast - frittatas make a delicious lunch, as do quiches.
Poach chicken or duck eggs for a trendy topping for
salad or lightly steamed asparagus, bake eggs in a mix
of pepper and tomatoes for shakshuka or use for a
vegetarian soufflé with bold flavours such as caramelised
onions, roasted peppers or fresh green asparagus.
Tofu and other protein based meat replacements
Tofu’s gotten a bad rap – it might look (and often taste)
bland, but this protein-rich bean curd can absorb flavours
making it extremely versatile. There are two main types
of tofu firm or soft but the most common type in South
Africa is firm. Use tofu in baked goods such as brownies or
cheesecakes, soak it in a flavourful marinade for an hour
before cooking and use it in stir fries, curries, stews or deep
fry for canapés. There are many soy-based products such
as Fry's which have the texture and flavour of meat but are
meat-free. One can find burgers, hot dogs, sausages or even
soy mince which can be used in a variety of applications.
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Spices and herbs
Vegetarian food shouldn’t be insipid and dull – take a
leaf out of traditional Indian cuisine and use the full
spectrum of fresh herbs and spices to jazz up dishes
with simple core ingredients. Think along of the lines of
potato vindaloo using a variety of potatoes and careful
spicing, a simple vegetable soup is lifted with a variety
of fresh green herbs and almost any salad can be made
more interesting with a variety of fresh herbs. Make
pastes such as pesto, harissa, savoury jams and relishes
to add to dishes or serve on the side; roast, mix and
blend your own spice mixes such as za’atar, Chinese five
spice and garam masala to add a creative touch.
Remember
• True Parmesan isn’t suitable for vegetarians as it is made using
animal rennet.
• Honey is often not suitable for many types of vegetarian as it is an
animal product, so make sure you check with your guests.
• It might seem obvious, but make sure you’re not using chicken or
meat stock in your vegetarian meals. And if you are, inform the guest.
• There are some wines which are not suitable for vegans as animal
ingredients are used in the winemaking process – the most
common animal ingredients used are isinglass (a pure form of
gelatine), gelatine and egg whites.
• Cook with different utensils to avoid cross contamination from
the meat cooking.
• When cooking for vegans, make sure that you’re not using eggbased pasta.
Types of Vegetarianism
• Pescatarianism: abstaining from all types of meat except for fish.
• Veganism: abstaining from all types of meat, dairy products or foods which contain any
animal-derived products such as gelatine or honey.
• Jainism: a type of Indian religion and practitioners don’t eat meat, poultry, fish, eggs or
dairy products (though they do drink milk), root vegetables, including onions and garlic,
yeast, intoxicants, vinegar, garlic, ginger, eggplants and pumpkin as well as mushrooms.
• Ovo-Lacto: vegetarians who don’t eat meat but do eat dairy and eggs.
• Ovo-Vegetarian: vegetarian who don’t eat meat or dairy, but do eat eggs.
• Raw Foodism: a raw, mostly vegan diet where food has not been cooked to a
temperature over 46°C.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 25
Interest
South Africa competes
in the Culinary Olympics
At the beginning of October, our national team of chefs
travelled overseas to Germany to take part in one of the
most prestigious team culinary competitions in the world.
The IKA Culinary Olympics take place in Erfurt, Germany
and Culinary Team SA achieved one gold, one silver and
five bronze medals as well as two diplomas during the four
day challenge. The team competed in the Senior, Junior
and Individual category cold tables as well as the Junior and
Senior Restaurant of Nations, producing a multi-course
menu for 90 (Junior) and 110 (Senior) people.
“The judges were extremely strict at this year’s Culinary Olympics
and participants from many of the countries felt that the judging
was particularly harsh this year. It was a good learning experience
for South Africa as none of the current team had competed
before in the Olympics,” said Culinary Team SA Manager, Bruce
Burns. The South African contingent also included Nicholas
Sarnadas as the Logistics Manager, SACA President Stephen
Billingham and Chef Garth Shnier as part of the judging team,
as well as SACA General Manager Graham Donet and Vice
President Allister Esau as support.
Back Row (l-r): Jacques Swart (Junior Team, Calico and Cream), Vusi Ndlovu (Junior Team, Saxon Boutique Hotel), Siyabulela
Kobo (Individual Entrant, Tsogo Sun), Jerome Norton (Individual Entrant, One&Only Cape Town), Kevin Miller (Senior
Team, Lindt Chocolate Studio), HD Fraser (Captain of Senior Team, Millers Group).
Middle Row (l-r): Keiron Reynolds (Captain of Junior Team, Fedics), Edward Clegg (Individual Entrant, Dinner Boyz), Kelvin
Joel (Individual Entrant, Johannesburg Pastry School), Charl Gyzen (Senior Team, Consultant), Nadin Pospech-Demmler
(Senior Team, Top Nosh Catering), Tanja Kruger (Senior Team, Majeka House), Abubaker Bagaria (Senior Team, SAA Air
Chefs), Zola Luwaca (Individual Entrant, Netcare).
First Row (l-r): Justin Simpson (Junior Team, Fedics), Natasha Fernandes (Junior Team, Arabella Western Cape), Gontse
Moyane (Junior Team support, Radisson Blu Sandton), Kgomotso Rasepae (Junior Team support, Johannesburg Country
Club), Peter Gyorgyicsek (Individual Entrant, Wizbake).
26 | CHEF! Issue 32
We spoke to the team about their experiences, their favourite moments during the Olympics as well as the biggest thing they
learnt from the competition. For an interview with the German Chefs Association in Erfurt who organised the IKA Culinary
Olympics, turn to page 44.
Keiron Reynolds - Junior Culinary Team SA
Captain
For the first time, a junior team was sent through
to compete in the Olympics and the team won a
bronze medal in both the Restaurant of Nations
and Cold Table categories.
Peter Gyorgyicsek - Individual Entrant
Peter entered his sugar showpiece as an individual entry which
won a gold medal. He trained for months, even preparing by
sleeping on the floor of his kitchen every weekend so that he was
ready for the hard work and long hours of the Olympics.
Favourite part of the Olympics?
I enjoyed every minute, but the best part was when I received my
gold medal from Robert Oppeneder who was my teacher when I was
12-years-old – I was so happy.
What parts of your sugar showpiece do you attribute your gold
medal to and which parts are your proudest of?
I liked the whole showpiece – I tried to make every element
interesting for me, for the judge and for everybody who was looking
at it. I made a little water drop from sugar but inside I created a
small butterfly. There was also a small squirrel hiding inside a box,
and the hummingbird was presented as in real life – eating from the
flower, not being supported by anything. The judge said that the
showpiece had a positive feeling and that all the elements worked
well together. They also felt the colours were beautiful and that the
showpiece was huge and impressive.
What could you not have survived without?
Firstly, I could not have gotten a gold medal without the support of
my family and my boss Braydon Etter’s support. Also, I wouldn’t
have a gold medal if our team manager, Bruce Burns, did not drive
so carefully with the elements of the showpiece at 3AM to the
exhibition centre – he probably only slept for two hours before and
needed to drive around 45-50kms! Huge thanks also goes to logistics
manager Nicholas for the support.
Biggest thing you learnt at the Olympics?
Practise hard for the goal - plan and prepare everything as much
as you can and don’t lose focus if someone or something disturbs
you. Also, listen to your mentors! My first teacher from Hungary
said, “Be prepared, plan everything and you will be champion.” Dr.
Bill Gallagher said, “Enjoy the competition and be positive.” Chef
Kanjiro from Tokyo said, “Relax and be strong.”
What was your favourite part of the Olympics?
The relief we felt after hot kitchen knowing that all
our events were complete. We had done what we set
out to do and all that remained was the anticipation
of waiting to see the final result.
Biggest learning experience?
We learnt that you can never be too prepared. Even
though you have ticked all the boxes and done all you
think you can do, curveballs will still be thrown your
way. Being so well-prepared helped us deal with many
a curveball.
In retrospect, what would you change?
Probably the mere three hours of sleep we had before
hot kitchen. And to pack more air freshener for all
the chefs’ shoes!
What was the Culinary Olympics like?
It was the most amazing experience of my life. It was
a unique learning experience as we were able to learn
from all the different culinary nations of the world in
one room. The judging was particularly tough and at
times fierce but we gained invaluable knowledge from
their input.
How did the Junior Team do, as it was their first
time competing?
I am proud to say that we did amazingly well! These
first timers are now ranked 14th in the world along
with the best. We came home the proud owners of
two bronze medals.
You wouldn’t have been able to survive without…?
Ouma Rusks and coffee. It really kept us going
through the long hours. We were prepared and took 10
kilograms with us - we even spared a few and introduced
our German host to the ritual of “dunking”. We left him
with four boxes as a parting gift.
Funniest moment of the Olympics?
After being awake for 46 hours, the day we put out
our cold table, we found a nice spot on the benches
in the expo centre and had a good half hour power
nap. I would also just like to add that I am honoured
to have shared this experience with such an amazing
team, group of friends, family and now fellow
Olympians!
CHEF! Issue 32 | 27
Interest
Charl Gyzen
– Senior Culinary Team
Some of the other team members gave their feedback on the experience…
Member of the Senior Culinary
team which won a silver medal in
the Restaurant of Nations and a
bronze medal in the Cold Table.
“The Culinary Olympics were my dream made reality – if you want it, go and get it
and don’t let anything stand in your way.” Edward Clegg
Favourite part of the Olympics?
Just being there to compete –
it’s the highest accolade for us
and I was honoured to be there.
What was it like meeting
other chefs from around the
world?
I’ve had the privilege of
meeting and working with chefs
from many parts of the world
so meeting them was not what
blew me away but rather the
work they did. Some of the
displays of food that we saw
were absolutely amazing.
Biggest learning experience?
There was so much but, I think
the one thing that stood out the
most was time management.
You plan as efficiently as you
can so you know how it should
work, but in real time it is a
different story.
What could you have not
survived without?
I would love to say my knives, but
in reality it was coffee and energy
drinks that saved the day.
In retrospect, what would you
have changed?
I would have packed a sleeping bag
– I never realised how little we’d
see our hotel beds and sleeping for
an hour or two in the kitchen and
the truck in winter was freezing!
As this is most of the team’s first
time competing in the Olympics,
what really stood out for you?
I think it is most probably the
sheer size of the Olympics: there
were three halls where for four
days countries and individuals put
out cold tables and competed in
hot kitchen. Seeing the quality
of the food and the all the chefs
doing it made me very proud to
be a part of it.
28 | CHEF! Issue 32
“The Olympic experience has been rather surreal, and the calibre of work and
experience was priceless! It was hard, but I learned a lot and couldn’t have chosen a
better group of chefs to experience it with.” Gontse Moyane
“It was the experience of a lifetime – now that I’ve seen what it’s all about, it makes
me so excited for the next Culinary Olympics: to be amongst chefs from other
countries, sharing the same honour and feeling blessed – to participate is amazing.”
Jacques Swart
“The Olympics were a learning experience that you can’t put a price on, as well as a
humbling experience. It was an honour.” Vusi Ndlovu
“It was simply an amazing, mind-blowing experience with a mixture of hard work,
fun, learning, camaraderie and lack of sleep.” Nadin Pospech-Demmler
“It was an unbelievable experience. Being there was already a huge honour, but
being able to compete as well as to see and learn really changed my outlook and
career.” Natasha Fernandes
The Team would not have been able to compete or practise without the generous sponsorship, support and partnership from
the following companies:
Sponsors
Partners
The Senior Team’s starter was Rooibos
Tea Sous Vide Salmon with Quinoa and
Black Salt; Boursin and Salmon Ravioli;
Truffle and Cauliflower Custard with a
Warm Salad of Corn, Broccoli, Tomato
& Radish and a Salmon Roe Buerre
Blanc Sauce.
The Senior main course was Roast Pork
Loin with Garlic Confit Tongue; Cider
Poached Pork Fillet; Braised Neck and
Cheek Rissoles with a potato and carrot
bake, trunip purée with a Sautée of Peas and
Mushrooms, Veal Jus and Garnished with
Crisp Onion Rings and Pork Crackling.
The Junior Team’s starter was a Barley Crepe Gateaux with
Cured Butternut, Green Olive Hummus and Smoked Tomato
Boursin Mousseline served Butternut Puree and Marinated
Pulses, Beetroot Agar Agar and a Salad of Malay Pickled
Vegetables and Pickled Dressing.
The Senior dessert was a White
Chocolate Bavoise with a Soft
Strawberry Centre; Strawberry
Fondant Pudding; Hazelnut Gelato
on Strawberry and Hazelnut Crumble;
Strawberry Marshmallows, Dark
Chocolate Crème and Strawberry Gel.
The Junior main course was Slow Roasted Salmon on a Radish
and Potato Rösti topped with Crisp Onions; Saffron Braised Leek
and Buttered Asparagus with a Salmon and Truffle Sausage; Sous
Vide Baby Marrow with Sautéed Cabbage, Peanuts and Sultanas
Drizzled with a Ginger Beurre Blanc.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 29
Interest
The F Word
Archbishop Desmond Tutu won’t eat it. Neither will author JM Coetzee who calls it a repellent practice.
Chris Chameleon will leave the table if it is served. As of 1 July no restaurant in the state of California is
allowed to sell it. We’re talking about foie gras, the culinary industry’s guilty pleasure.
By Adele Stiehler
F
oie gras has always been a
controversial luxury ingredient
but despite the trend of protecting
artisan food production, criticism of foie
gras seems to increase, especially with the
recent ban on sales and production of the
fatty liver in California. The weeks before
the ban saw a human “gavage” with foie
gras dinners on offer all over California.
Most restaurants have apparently removed
it from their menus since the ban but
according to news reports a daring few
found a way to continue serving the
delicacy: exuberant prices are charged for
brioche and fruit compotes that are served
with ‘complementary’ foie gras, as the
current legislation does not forbid chefs to
give it away for free.
Exactly who and how the enforcement will
work also seems to be a mystery but a fine
of $1000 per day is supposed to be the
penalty for restaurants that continue selling
foie gras.
The French (who produce 78% of the
world’s foie gras) have taken the ban very
personally with a politician from foie gras
producing Gascony calling on all French
restaurants to ban Californian wines in
solidarity with the foie gras industry.
Although the ban will not have a significant
impact on the French markets as they
consume most of what they produce, the
French are apparently concerned that the
ban will spread to other countries.
Locally foie gras also made headlines earlier
this year when the NSPCA confiscated
local producer Bon Canard’s Muscovy
ducks and laid a criminal charge of animal
cruelty apparently relating to the cage sizes
and the controversial “gavage” technique
used to fatten the ducks. “There was never
any cruelty in our process, there are many
30 | CHEF! Issue 32
misconceptions about the production,” said
Rhoda Diedericks from Bon Canard. They
were producing foie gras for 15 years with
the SPCA apparently often on their farm
even witnessing the feeding process.
Several European countries have banned
the production of foie gras by banning
force feeding of animals but have not
banned the import or sale of foie gras,
while other countries including South
Africa interpret their animal cruelty laws
as banning the force feeding of animals for
foie gras production.
French foie gras producer Rougie agree
that there are many misconceptions about
how foie gras is made and the company is
determined to deal with legitimate concerns
and expose some of the “spectacular lies”
that they say have been spread by a “very
active and violent minority.” Mr Guy
de Saint-Laurent, Rougie’s director of
commercial export, recently hosted a lunch
at the Westcliff Hotel with local foie gras
importer Sagra Food and Wine Merchants
and distributor La Marina to shed light on
the production of the luxury ingredient
that California chefs defended as a “key
component in their culinary repertoire”.
According to Darryn Lazarus from Sagra
Food and Wine Merchants, South Africans
are consuming more foie gras as there has
been a significant increase in imports over
the past few years.
Foie gras’ roots lie in antiquity with the
ancient Egyptians as the first to produce
the controversial delicacy. They noticed
that migrating ducks gorged themselves
and their livers fattened as a result. The
Egyptians copied the process by feeding the
ducks figs. Today in France Landes geese,
Muscovy ducks and Mulard ducks are
used for foie gras production, with mulard
ducks used for 95% of the production.
Mulard ducks are a cross between the
Muscovy duck from South America and
the common Peking duck from the South
of China. According to Rougie’s study the
ducks retain the same ability of migrating
ducks to reserve great quantities of energy
in the form of fat in their liver although
they no longer migrate. After migration the
duck’s liver returns to its natural size.
The fattening process or “gavage” as it is
known in France is usually the focus of
animal rights activists accusing the process
of cruelty. The ducks are fattened by
administering corn through a tube inserted
down the duck’s oesophagus.
Rougie defends the use of this technique
explaining that the digestive system in
ducks and geese are unique in that the
oesophagus is not directly linked to the
stomach but to an extendable pouch called
the crop. The crop holds the grains for
moistening before releasing the corn to
the stomach so grains are released to the
stomach progressively allowing the duck
to ingest large quantities of grain without
suffering harm.
It is also highlighted that the oesophagus of
aquatic birds has the unique trait that it is
very strong and resistant. With ducks not
having teeth for cutting or mashing food
their keratinized esophageal walls allow the
duck to ingest entire vertebrates such as fish
or small mammals.
Ducks are not force fed through their
entire life, but only for the last two weeks.
During the first four weeks ducklings eat
as much as they want and live indoors in
buildings equipped with radiating heaters
and a density of forty to fifty ducklings per
square metre. Next follows the four week
development stage where ducks also have
free access to outside areas and the density
is seven ducklings per square meter. Ducks
still continue to eat at will and feeding areas
are situated both inside and outside.
From their ninth week of life the ducklings
have become ducks and they are prepared
for fattening. The living conditions remain
the same and ducks can eat as much as they
want, but at set times and for a limited
time only. In the twelfth or thirteenth
week the fattening process begins. At this
stage the ducks weigh between 3.8 and
4.5 kg and for twelve days they receive
two high carbohydrate meals per day to
reach a weight of 5.2-5.5kg. The livers
weigh 300g at the start of fattening but will
weigh between 450 and 600g in the end.
During the fattening stage the ducks are
indoors and their activity is limited – some
in collective pens of twelve ducks or in
individual cages, but the cage system will
totally disappear in France by December
2015.
“The ducks are fed one at a time using
gestures both gentle and firm, which are
precise and peaceful” states the Rougie
report. For the experienced hand the
process lasts no more than ten seconds at
a time. Before slaughter the ducks in the
Rougie operation are put to sleep through
electronarcosis to desensitise them. Next
the duck is bled and once dead is plucked
and washed before being sent to the gutting
room in order to remove the prized liver
immediately, while the carcass is still warm.
Both Rougie and Bon Canard argue that
to obtain the best foie gras the comfort and
well-being of ducks are crucial. Rougie
also quote in their defense a 2007 study
from the National Institute of Agriculture
(INRA): “While several animal protection
groups campaign for a legal ban on
fattening, it is necessary to objectivise
the consequences of the practice for
palmipeds. To date not a single result that
we have obtained in a multidisciplinary
study supports the criticisms concerning
this production and does not justify their
claims.” – D. Guemene INRA: Productions
animals.
The South African NSPCA however insists
that there is no humane way to produce
foie gras “and that the food is inherently
inhumane.”
No Foie Gras South Africa (NFGSA)
is a local organisation that opposes the
production and consumption of foie
gras and has listed many of the country’s
top restaurants on their “wall of shame”
for serving the French delicacy. The
organisation organises protests and
encourages its members to ask restaurants
that serve foie gras to remove it from its
menus. To state their case NFGSA often
refers to the European Union’s Scientific
Committee on Animal Health and Animal
Welfare report of 1998 that concluded that
“force feeding, as currently practiced, is
detrimental to the welfare of the birds.”
According to a 2009 scientific study against
foie gras by Prof. Ian Duncan, Special
Advisor on Farm Animal Welfare at the
British Columbia SPCA, ducks avoid the
force-feeding pen as well as the person
who feeds them and this indicates that the
procedure is unpleasant to them.
Duncan also argues that the feeding
regime is not comparable to the
voluntary gorging that migratory
waterfowl perform and he
recommends that the
production of foie gras
can only continue if
routine feeding methods
that causes stress or
discomfort to the birds
are not used; that any induced increase in
liver size or fat content does not impair
liver function and only if housing
systems providing adequate space
permitting normal behavior is used.
winter migration allowing geese to stock up
on extra food naturally in preparation for
their expected long flight south. Because
the process happens naturally the geese are
only slaughtered once a year and the livers
are more expensive than the traditional
product.
Although Eduardo Sousa’s “ethical foie gras”
has already won the Coup de Coeur award
from the Paris International Food Salon
some argue that it does not conform to the
French legal definition for foie gras and
there are still debates about the quality of
the liver produced.
Many chefs when posed with the question
of foie gras do not respond to it as an
isolated food production system but prefer
to discuss it in the greater context of food
production often comparing it to feedlots
and battery farming systems that are also
accused of excessive cruelty but receive far
less attention.
As writer Christopher Hope explains the
production of foie gras in British television
chef Rick Stein’s French
Odyssey: “It is what
happens with
most of what
we eat. We
don’t always
like what we
see, but we do
like what we
eat.”
Both studies are also concerned about the
mortality rate during the fattening process,
but according to Rougie, the mortality rate
is inferior to the average for other animal
production farms.
An alternative addressing activists concerns
has come from Spain where “humane foie
gras” is produced without force feeding.
The slaughter is timed to coincide with the
CHEF! Issue 32 | 31
Interest
Sunday Times
Chef of the Year
We catch up with the winners of the Sunday Times Chef of the Year, in association with Foodcorp, which took place in October. Each
chef was put to the test with a mystery basket challenge in each category, having to prepare a 3 course menu in 1 ½ hours and this year
the winners walked away with a total of R90 000 collectively. "The competition is a great way to showcase and highlight the talent within
the food industry, and we are happy to announce that the standard of dishes this year was very high," says Jacqui Gunn, the Sunday Times
Chef of the Year competition manager. “It was also great to see the energy and enthusiasm of the younger chefs during the competition.”
Chef of the Year
Rudi Liebenberg, Mount Nelson Hotel
Rudi won R50 000 with his three course menu created with
mystery basket ingredients lamb loin, lamb kidneys, white
anchovies, cauliflower, spinach, coffee beans and sultanas.
moment than a favourite moment. My favourite element of the
menu was cauliflower.
Were there any ingredients in the basket that
made you think, “What on earth am I going to do
with that?”
What was your favourite moment of the
competition and what was your favourite element
of your menu?
Yes, the whole basket.
When I realised I had added sour cream to my panna cotta
mixture that it actually didn’t taste all that bad, more of a relief
I worked on timing more than anything else, it did not help me
though as I ran over time.
How did you train for the competition?
Mark Iveson (Stalwart of the Kitchen), Tiaan Langenegger (Young Chef of the Year), Rudi Liebenberg (Chef of the Year) and
Nik Tonglet (Junior Chef of the Year).
32 | CHEF! Issue 32
Would you encourage other chefs to enter the
competition and why?
What’s next for you – do you plan on continuing to
enter competitions and why did you decide to enter?
Yes definitely, PR PR PR and money. But seriously, it does give
you the opportunity to step outside your normal comfort zone
and have a little fun.
Next? I’m going overseas to Chef Luke Dale-Roberts Potluck
Verbier pop-up followed by a 4 month stage at Noma in
Copenhagen, Denmark. So for now, no new competitions but
maybe in the future. The next time I enter will be to network
and test myself. It is all about learning about yourself.
Young Chef of the Year
Tiaan Langenegger, Overture Restaurant
Tiaan, who also won the 2012 Unilever Chef of the Year
competition, walked away with R20 000 and his mystery
basket ingredients were pork loin chops, lardo, asparagus,
exotic mushrooms, mango, hake, mealie meal and agar-agar.
What was your favourite moment of the
competition and the best element of your menu?
I enjoyed the fact that I knew what was going on around me.
The fact that I have done this before made it easier. This year
everything went according to plan and I tried to stay calm.
Did you train specifically for the competition?
No I did not but we have a menu change once a week at
Overture and I get to work with a lot of new and different
ingredients and recipes, so I see that as training.
Did the organisers throw any curveballs with the
mystery basket ingredients or do you think they
were quite fair?
I think they were very fair. Everything was nice and fresh.
Also the kitchen this year was pretty cool.
Junior Chef of the Year
Nik Tonglet, The Test Kitchen
Nik won R10 000 after creating the winning three course
menu in the Junior Chef category, using mystery basket
ingredients that included fresh tuna, free range chicken,
sago, fresh figs and blood sausage.
What was your favourite moment of the
competition and the best element of your menu?
My favourite moment was the talk with all the judges
after the competition, reviewing the food we had
produced. It was great and inspiring to hear my fellow
competitors and the judges talk about our shared
passion. The best element of my menu was probably the
combination of roasted fig and black pudding.
Is there anything you learnt during the competition
that you’ll be bringing back to your kitchen?
I learnt to focus and multitask more, which are put to use
every day in the kitchen.
What ingredient in the mystery basket was your
favourite and which was your worst?
My favourite ingredient in the mystery basket was definitely the black
pudding. Sago was my worst, the first time I had ever cooked with it.
Stalwart of the Kitchen
Mark Iveson, Gonubie Hotel
The winning stalwart, who walked away with R10 000, created
a two course menu out of the mystery basket ingredients which
included yellowtail, green olives, verjuice, white chocolate, fresh
peaches and vanilla paste.
Why did you decide to enter the competition?
I decided to enter the competition because I wanted to see how I
would fare against the best and gain valuable experience. The culinary
industry in South Africa is at its peak and all institutions have to stay
with the revival at the present otherwise they will get left behind.
What was your favourite moment of the competition
and the best element of your menu?
My favourite moment was meeting the top chefs in South
Africa and learning from them and to really see how passionate
and dedicated they are. It was an honour and a privilege and
something I will truly value for a long time. Menu wise, I would
say the yellow tail. We catch these fish on the Transkei coast and
the availability is often taken for granted as well as the ease at
which we can produce such good seafood dishes.
Did you train for the competition? If so, how?
I did not train at all. I went into the competition blind really - I
did not know what to expect at all. What really struck me was
the respect everyone has for food and most of all for each other. I
could see this as the number one factor that has made these chefs
and the competition so successful.
What have you taken away from the competition and
is there anything you’ve learnt that you’ll be bringing
back to your kitchen?
I have taken back to my kitchen a new attitude and this will in
time be evident in the dishes that we produce. It has changed my
life and I am more than ever determined to educate staff in the
finer and most important factors of culinary arts.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 33
2012 Winners of the
Sime Darby Hudson & Knight
Baking Masters Competition Crowned
Back Row (left to right): Robyn Jacka, Stuart McClarty, Andrea Dohlhoff, James Khoza, Neil Olverman, Joseph Javangwe, Hilmar Jooste,
Wesley Cameron, Tian Oeflofse, Henrik Jonnson, Mashudu Ndopu (Industrial Key Accounts Manager - Bakery)
Middle Row (left to right): Deanna Jansen, Nobantu Mqulwana (Marketing Manager), Wonda Grobbelaar, Tammy Henton
Front Row (left to right): Samantha Meyer, Jaco du Toit, Nadia Barnard, Marlise Mostert, Judy Gildenhuys
Finalists in the Sime Darby Hudson &
Knight Baking Masters competition gathered
at the South African Chefs Association’s
Centre for Culinary Excellence on the 29th
of September for the final competition
cook-off. The competition, with Student,
Professional and Team categories, challenged
chefs to create a baked dish using Hudson
& Knight’s popular baking fats Pastrex and
Mastercraft, and chefs across the board rose
to the challenge.
Winning the professional title and R20 000
was Tammy Henton from the Michelangelo
Hotel. She impressed judges with her baked
creation of Roasted Almond Parfait and
34 | CHEF! Issue 32
Meringue Biscuit with a White Chocolate
Cake, Amarula Fudge-filled Chocolate
accompanied by a Pomegranate and
Grape Salsa. The other two finalists in the
professional category were Judy Gildenhuys
from Royal Mnandi and Joseph Javangwe
from Tsogo Sun.
“The Hudson and Knight Baking Masters
competition is a unique competition, as
it allows competitors to showcase their
pastry skills in a competitive but in a
friendly environment. The highlight of
the competition for me was winning the
Professional category. I really enjoyed the
day and I would love to encourage all pastry
chefs to enter next year, as it is great platform
to showcase your baking skills,” Tammy said.
Wowing the judges in the student category
was winner Wonda Grobbelaar from
Capsicum Culinary Studio in Sunninghill,
who won R10 000 with her dish Coffee and
Date cake with a Caramel Mousse Filling,
decorated with Dark Chocolate and Fudge
Shavings. Also in the student category
finals were Deanna Jansen from Capsicum
Culinary Studio Port Elizabeth and Jaco du
Toit from Capital Hotel School.
“I felt honored to be the winner of
my category, as everybody’s work was
outstanding. I also realized that hard work really pays off,” said
Wonda. “I will definitely encourage all my chef friends to enter
next year, firstly for the prize, but also to have a platform to
show off your talents. It was really a highlight in my life.”
In the team category, it was second year Silwood School
of Cookery students Robyn Jacka and Andrea Hirschberg
Dohlhoff who were victorious with their dish of Dark
Chocolate Fondant, served with Pistachio Ice Cream, Fresh
Mulberries, Mulberry Jellies and a Praline Soil. They won
R20 000, and the other finalist teams were from Capital Hotel
School (Marlise Mostert, Nadia Barnard, Wesley Cameron
and Hilmar Jooste) and Etali Safari Lodge (Tian Oeflofse and
Samanthe Meyer).
Professional Chef Tammy Henton created a Roasted Almond
Parfait and Meringue Biscuit with a White Chocolate Cake,
Amarula Fudge-filled Chocolate accompanied by a Pomegranate
and Grape Salsa
“I was thrilled to hear that we had come in the top three
and would be flown to Johannesburg to participate in the
finals,” said Andrea, who is currently doing an internship
at 95 on Keerom. “We practiced every free day before the
competition and this has taught me how important it is to
be prepared.”
“The competition was tough, but in the end, it was all
worth it. We got the chance to meet some incredible Chefs,
and got really good advice for future competitions. It was a
wonderful experience!”
Judging the competition were South African Chefs
Association accredited judges Henrik Jonsson (Kitchen
Judge), Stuart McClarty, James Khoza and Neil Olverman.
Graham Donet, General Manager of the South African
Chefs Association, believes that pastry has never been more
popular: “There is a high demand for skilled pastry chefs in
South Africa so this is a great time for chefs to specialise. We
at the South African Chefs Association are very pleased to
be involved with the Sime Darby Hudson & Knight Baking
Masters Competition, as we believe that it is incredibly
important to have a competition on the culinary calendar of
this calibre that focuses on pastry.”
Nobantu Mqulwana, Marketing Manager for Hudson &
Knight, says that, “As one of the leading players in the South
African Fats and Oils space, we are committed to driving
and supporting innovation and creativity in our industry.
The Sime Darby Hudson and Knight Baking Masters
competition is one of the ways in which we show that
commitment as well as acknowledge and celebrate our local
talent. We were delighted to host this year’s finalists and
extend heartfelt congratulations to all our winners.”
Culinary Student Wonda Grobelar produced a Coffee and
Date cake with a Caramel Mousse Filling, decorated with Dark
Chocolate and Fudge Shavings
Corporate Team winners Robyn Jacka and Andrea Hirschberg
Dohlhoff created a Dark Chocolate Fondant, served with
Pistachio Ice Cream, Fresh Mulberries, Mulberry Jellies and a
Praline Soil
CHEF! Issue 32 | 35
PRITCHITTS
TASTE OF THE WORLD
RECIPE COMPETITION
Left to right: Pritchitts’ Senior Advisory Chef Peter Hallmanns, Winner Bertram du Plooy,
Owner of DEL Trade Dave Elton and KZN Branch Manager Jill Bacchioni
Bertram du Plooy, Owner and Head Pâtisser
of Spoon To Spoon Cake Boutique, snapped
up the title as winner of the 2012 Pritchitts
Taste of the World Competition. Along with
being crowned winner, he also received a trip
for two to London and Ireland, as well as
R20 000 to spend on his kitchen unit.
In the months leading up to the final
cook-off, professional chefs and culinary
students were invited to submit their recipes
using any one or more of the Pritchitts
products distributed within South Africa
by Del Trade: Millac Gold, Creative Base,
Roselle Supreme, Chef ’s Taste, Millac Dairy
Whipping Cream and Sure Whip.
The three other finalists presented Bertram
with fierce competition – Chris Lategan,
Senior Sous Chef at Sun International Palace
of the Lost City (second place), Jonathan
Gargan, Executive Chef of the Cape Royale
Cape Town (third place), and Clinton
Bonhomme, Executive Sous Chef at the
Southern Sun Elangeni (fourth place), each
created their signature menu during the
three-hour competition which took place on
25 September at Delwood Chefs Academy in
Cape Town.
The judging panel consisted of Pritchitts’
Senior Advisory Chef, Peter Hallmanns,
the Cape Town International Convention
Centre’s Executive Chef, Peter Robertson,
and Chef Tim Woodford, Principal of
Delwood Chefs Academy.
Each chef was given three hours to complete
their signature menu consisting of a starter,
main and dessert: all courses had to include
a Pritchitts cream and their entry recipe
had to be incorporated as part of their final
presentation.
Chef Bertram’s winning menu consisted of
Grilled Goats Cheese served on a Butternut
Tartlet, accompanied by Slow Roasted Vine
Tomatoes as a starter; Seared Salmon topped
with Tamarind and Pistachio served with a
Creamy Chive Mash Potato accompanied by
Greens and Glazed Beetroot; and Chocolate
Roulade served with Homemade Toffee and
a Citrus sauce.
Simplicity is what inspires him; Bertram
aims to keep his dishes simple by
incorporating each ingredient in such a
way that it stands out. A true believer in
Millac Gold in his own kitchen, Bertram
explains that it is a product that has never
let him down, and his quiet yet unwavering
confidence during the competition was
largely due to the fact that the product’s
versatility has never failed to impress.
“It’s important to remain focused,” he says.
“I try to get into this zone which allows me
to focus on what I do and nothing else”.
Being a pastry chef by trade, Bertram’s main
inspiration for entering the competition was
to test his hot kitchen skills, as it had been
years since he last prepared a full course
menu. With good preparation before-hand,
however, he proved to himself and the judges
that he still has what it takes. “I’ve still got
it!” he says with a laugh.
that the experience was a true highlight in
their culinary careers. Each judge boasts a
wealth of international experience, and this
greatly contributed to the quality of this
high-calibre event.
“One of the highlights for me was that the
people involved in the competition, from the
organisers to the judges to the competitors
were all so passionate. Peter Hallmans from
Pritchitts particularly made an impression
on me, because he was so passionate and
involved and enthusiastic. This set the tone
for a great ambience and a positive outcome.
I was humbled by his attitude,” said Clinton
Bonhomme. “The organisation was great,
the mood was relaxed, and I enjoyed that
the competitors all got on so well together.”
Clinton’s menu consisted of Salmon Mousse,
Potato and Prawn Salad with Avocado
Cream as starter, Herb Crusted Rack of
Lamb served with Baby Carrots, Shimyi
Mushrooms and Pea Puree as mains, and
Milk Tart Parfait served with Dark Chocolate
Mousse Crepe as dessert.
“I thought the competition was a wellplanned and organised event. There was a
fantastic atmosphere, and the contenders
were all great to work with,” said first
runner-up Chef Chris Lategan, whose
menu consisted of Sweet Garden Pea and
Ham Ragout, Roasted Caramelized Garlic
Cloves with Fava Bean Puree as a starter,
Double Cooked Honey BBQ Roasted Pork
Belly Slice infused with All Spice, Truffle
Cauliflower, and Parsnip and Sweet Potato
Puree, Apple and Cinnamon Compote
with a Guinness Reduction as a main,
and Pistachio and Chocolate Frangipane
Squares, Bitter Sweet Chocolate Sauce,
Ground Ginger and Banana Powder, Mocha
Flavoured Mascarpone and Coffee Tequila
Nibs as dessert. “I’ve already encouraged
some of my fellow workers to enter next
year. It’s a whole new world working with
Pritchitts products – I can’t wait try some
new recipes!”
Jonathan Gargan, who created a starter
of Mushroom Parfait, Fricassee of Exotic
Mushrooms, Mushroom Croquet and
Toasted Pine Nuts, a main dish of Mi Cuit
of Crayfish, Crayfish Bisque Mousse, Green
Vegetable Salad, Crustacean and Lemon
Aioli and Vanilla Crustacean Oil, and a
dessert of Lemon Mousse and Marzipan
Gelee, Lemon Ash Meringue, Lemon Curd
and White Chocolate Soil, said that having
not participated in competitions for the
past eight years, it was great to experience
the adrenalin of a competition once again.
“My highlights were being able to produce
dishes which demonstrated my approach
towards cooking. Utilizing modern products
provided by Pritchitts and combining them
with local, fresh ingredients, and presenting
them within the realms of my own style, was
the most enjoyable part of the contest.”
And if ever there was an example of hard
work paid off, this is it; Bertram plans to
take his overseas trip within the next six
months, accompanied by his father, who
will be leaving South African shores for
the first time ever. He also plans to use the
prize money to buy extra refrigeration –
something that will come in very handy for
the dozens of wedding cakes he has been
commissioned to do in the coming months.
Each finalist emphasised the worth of having
entered the competition, saying the judges’
feedback in particular was invaluable, and
Left to right: Clinton Bonhomme, Jonathan Gargan, Bertram du Plooy and Chris Lategan
You Can with Fish
(& Lucky Star!)
Tamsin Snyman of Lannice Snyman Publishers took her culinary cue from the
versatility, convenience and the myriad possibilities contained in Lucky Star’s
wide range of canned fish, to bring a deliciously easy collection of 26 original new
recipes to the pages of You Can with Fish. The book also introduces Lucky Star’s
new Blue Range of products.
You Can With Fish is the third in a series published for Lucky Star. Tamsin
explains: “The recent launch of Lucky Star’s Blue Range of products created such
excitement – and opened up so many new possibilities – that we decided it’s
time for another addition. This follows on Cooking with Canned Pilchards which
debuted in 2003, and Out of the Can, the second in the series, earmarked Lucky
Star’s 50th anniversary, broadening the appeal of canned fish, from pilchards and
middlecut to tuna and sardines.”
Divided into three main chapters, with meal preparation times in under 10, 20 or 30
minutes, all recipes are endorsed by the Heart & Stroke Foundation South Africa.
You Can With Fish retails for R85.50 at all leading book stores.
Reader
Offer
SMS your name and address to 42243 & unleash your inner
foodie with the new Lucky Star cookbook, “You Can With
Fish”. SMS charged at R30 which covers the price of the
book & postage. Visit www.luckystar.co.za for T’s & C’s.
Tuna Cakes with
Tartare Sauce
Makes 8 cakes / Serves 4–8
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
3 potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2 x 170g cans Lucky Star Shredded Tuna,
well drained
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 small onion, finely chopped
30ml (2 Tbsp) chopped fresh parsley
milled black pepper
canola oil for frying
lemon wedges for squeezing
Tartare Sauce
125ml (½ cup) fat-free smooth
cottage cheese
45ml (3 Tbsp) low-fat mayonnaise
1 hard-boiled egg, finely chopped
5ml (1 tsp) English mustard
5ml (1 tsp) chopped fresh parsley
5ml (1 tsp) snipped chives
15ml (1 Tbsp) chopped gherkins
Method:
1. Tartare Sauce Mix all the ingredients
together in a bowl. Cover and chill.
2. Cook the potatoes in boiling water
until soft. Drain well and mash. Mix
in the tuna, eggs, onion and parsley,
and season with pepper. Form the
mixture into eight patties.
3. Heat a non-stick pan and add a dash
of oil. Fry the patties until golden
brown, flip and cook the other side.
4. Arrange the tuna cakes on serving
plates or one large platter. Serve with
tartare sauce and with lemon wedges
for squeezing.
NOTES:
• Switch out the tuna for Lucky Star
Smoked Sardines if you like.
• This is a great dish for a lunch served
with a large leafy green salad.
• If you are expecting a crowd, make
the patties half the size and dollop
a little tartare sauce on top of each
baby cake. Serve on a platter to
impress your guests.
• Baby cakes also make a fun treat for
kiddies’ meals.
masterclass
Christmas with
Tydstroom Farm Chicken
Chicken Galantine
Chicken Terrine
Chicken Livers in Sherry
Chicken in Cashews
The SA Chef ’s Academy
demonstrates how to serve
chicken this Christmas using
Tydstroom Farm Chicken.
Chicken Galantine with
Tydstroom Deboned
Whole Chicken
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40 | CHEF! Issue 32
Yield: 4 Portions
Ingredients:
1Tydstroom Whole Deboned
Chicken, unflavoured
200g Chicken forcemeat
100g Breast meat, skinned
and deboned
5ml Chopped rosemary
1eaOrange, zest only
5mlGreen peppercorns
100ml Cream
5gSalt
Method:
• Split chicken and splay on buttered foil
• Season well and chill
• Lighten forcemeat with cream and
spread onto chicken
• Disperse aromatics evenly over top
• Add seasoned breast meat
• Roll up loosely and tighten in foil
• Twist ends to seal
• Steam or bake at 140°C until
a core temperature of 63 degrees
is achieved
• Remove foil and slice
• Serve with suitable accompaniments
Chicken Terrine
Chicken Livers in Sherry
Chicken in Cashews
Yield: 2 x terrines of 15cm x 23cm
Yield: 4 Portions
Yield: 4 Portions Ingredients:
750g Chicken leg & thigh meat,
skinned and deboned
250g Chicken breast meat,
skinned and deboned
200g Streaky bacon, for wrapping
5ml Chopped thyme, leaves only
3ea Juniper berries, crushed
10mlGreen peppercorns
30mlDijon mustard
100ml Brandy
5gSalt
Ingredients:
500g Chicken livers, defrosted
and trimmed
80mlOlive oil
1medOnion, finely sliced
3cloveGarlic, peeled and sliced
5ml Smoked paprika
8eaWalnuts, broken
4 totsDry sherry
1Tbsp Parsley, chopped
Salt & pepper to taste
Method:
• Heat oil in large frying pan and
cook seasoned livers until they
change colour and firm up
their shape
• Remove and keep warm
• Fry onions and garlic until softened
• Stir in the paprika and add
the sherry
• Bring to the boil and add livers
and walnuts
• Carefully turn to incorporate
without breaking when cooked,
transfer to serving plate
Ingredients:
4ea Chicken breast fillets – no skin
or bone
50mlOlive oil
150g Cashew nuts, unsalted but
roasted and chopped
80gBreadcrumbs
1tsp Parsley, chopped
50mlHoney
50gButter
Salt & pepper to taste
Method:
• Season chicken and fry until golden
in olive oil
• Transfer to roasting tray
• Combine remaining ingredients
and coat breasts evenly
• Bake at 200°C for 10 to 12
minutes, or until done.
• Remove and slice before arranging
on serving plate
Method:
• Chill all ingredients to below 10°C
• Chop or coarsely mince all leg &
thigh meat
• Add herbs & aromatics and mix
until sticky and amalgamated and
well dispersed
• Adjust seasoning and chill
• Lay forms with strips of bacon and
a light salting
• Fill halfway up with forcemeat and
then breast meat
• Cover with forcemeat and wrap
bacon to encase
• Cover and seal with a double
layer of foil
• Steam or bake at 140°C until a
core temperature of 63 degrees is
achieved
• Cool under weighted board
• Remove foil and cover with
cling wrap
• Refrigerate for 1 day before using
Wouter Wentzel (Regional Sales Manager)
Cell: 082 572 1953
Email: wwentzel@pioneerfoods.co.za
CHEF! Issue 32 | 41
SACA ROund Up
In these dedicated pages we explore SACA’s latest news, events and developments. From a judge’s perspective
on culinary competitions and a peek into InfoChef Johannesburg 2012, here you can also meet Board
Member Henrik Jonsson, get the German Chefs Association’s thoughts on the IKA Culinary Olympics and
find out more about what the Association has been up to across the country.
Meet Board Member:
Henrik Jonsson
How did you get started as
a chef?
I didn’t really plan on it. I had been to
several other types of schools/universities
without much success, when I finally
decided to try cooking, and I loved it. I had
worked in some restaurants and kitchens
during holidays and found it interesting.
And after my first day of culinary school I
was hooked from the first day and I knew
that this was the career for me. Since then
I have had great mentors and worked with
and for great people. I think that made the
biggest impact on me and was also a big
reason for me to stick with this career.
What is your role in the UJ
School of Tourism & Hospitality
and what does your job entail?
Currently I am Head Chef, but this entails
more management than cooking. I look
after four kitchens that service 31 venues
on two campuses of the university. We cook
for around 100 000 guests every year and
our services range from breakfast, lunch,
dinner, conferences, cocktail parties, high
teas, team building, cakes for any occasion
and anything else you can think of. I am
also responsible for the stores, including
stock control and financial reports to the
finance department of the university.
What is the biggest mistake you
see being made in the kitchen?
Today I think work ethic is being lost.
There is a huge attitude of ‘me first’.
By this I mean that many people work
as chefs because that is their job, just
as if they were pumping gas or selling
shoes; there is no passion. There is no
willingness to stretch and do things
beyond the job description. The idea
that many chefs have today is: do the
minimum to get paid. I have been able to
assemble a team of chefs that work hard
until the job is done, not until their shift
is over and they drop everything.
What is your most embarrassing
culinary moment?
When I was filming a DVD for a
training course on vegetable cutting and
I sliced my finger on the very first shot.
Luckily after the bleeding slowed the
cameraman switched angles and it looked
as if nothing had happened.
WCTAH Gala Dinner raises
over R170 000
The World Chefs Tour Against Hunger Gala Dinner,
which took place on 15 September 2012 in the Kerzner
Building at the UJ School of Tourism and Hospitality
was a fabulous evening of delicious food and live music
that brought together 180 guests for a good cause.
Jeremy Mansfield was the MC and auctioneer for
the evening, encouraging guests to bid for some of
the great items on auction. From chef’s jackets with
children’s handprints and beautiful artwork to luxury
getaways, guests purchased almost all the items
available. Through the proceeds from the auction,
as well as from the ticket sales to gala dinner, over
R170 000 was raised for the World Chefs Tour
Against Hunger, which supplies eight charities in six
provinces with food every month.
42 | CHEF! Issue 32
Henrik Jonsson has been a SACA Board
Member since August 2011 and is currently
working as Head Chef of the University
of Johannesburg School of Tourism and
Hospitality. We sit down with Henrik to find
out more about his career and inspirations.
What has been your most
memorable meal?
There have been many, but all of them
involve family. One has to be eating pizza
with my kids while watching a movie, and
other favourites include enjoying fresh
seafood in Mollösund, Sweden on the pier
at my parent's house and holiday lunches
with family and friends.
What is the number one piece
advice you would give to
young student chefs?
Work hard, and if you don’t like where
you are you have two choices: change your
attitude or change where you are.
What do you hope to
achieve as a board
member of SACA?
I want to make a difference. I
would like to be instrumental
in uplifting the quality of
education and practical
experience in cooking
schools. I see the future
of SACA in the high
schools of South Africa.
SACA Honorary President
Manfred Muellers was bestowed
with a Presidential Medal from
the Canadian Chefs Federation’s
President Donald Gyurkovits,
honouring his 32-year friendship
with the Federation. The token
of appreciation was presented by
SACA Honorary Life President
Stephen Billingham.
Chef of Distinction:
Garth Stroebel
We speak to co-founder of the South African Chefs Academy and
former SACA Board Member, Garth Stroebel.
What do you feel has been
the greatest achievement in
your career? There have been two highlights in my
career that stick in my mind. One was
when I was the first South African to
represent our country at the Bocuse d’Or
competition in 1986 where I came 12th
in the world. This hasn’t been achieved by
a South African since. It was both a tough
and exhilarating experience. The other
achievement that stands out is being part
of the South African national culinary
team when we won the hot kitchen at the
IKA Culinary Olympics in 1992. How has being a part of SACA
influenced your career and
personal growth?
Being part of a ‘brotherhood’ of chefs
opens doors and creates opportunities
both nationally and world-wide. SACA
has been a great support system to me
during my career.
Can you tell me a bit more
about your experience winning
gold in the hot kitchen at the
IKA Culinary Olympics, and also,
what would be your word of
advice for the current Culinary
Team South Africa for IKA
Culinary Olympics in the future?
As I said, this was an amazing
experience. My advice to chefs
participating in competitions of this
magnitude would be to stay focused and
make sure your food makes culinary
sense! You can NEVER practise too
much. Also, it is vital that you recognise
the importance and contribution of
each team member. Team work is
everything. It is imperative that you use
the competition not only as a competitor
striving to win, but also to learn from the
other teams. It’s an opportunity of a life
time to gain knowledge.
What inspires you as a
chef today?
When I have a student who REALLY
wants to learn and shows sincere interest,
this inspires me. What is the one piece of
advice that you want all of your
students at SA Chefs Academy
to remember for the rest of their
careers?
I would like them to remember that
being a chef is not a ‘job’ - it’s a
dedication and requires extraordinary
hard work and hours. If you don’t
love it, don’t do it! And, you need to
open your mind to constant learning
- you should NEVER stop wanting
to learn and to embrace and take
advantage of the huge opportunities
available in our country.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 43
For more information about these and/or other McCain products, please contact the McCain Food Service Division Tel +27 11 856 6000, Fax +27 11 856 6001,
TOLL FREE 0800 006 498 E-mail us at consumer@mccain.co.za or visit our website www.mccain.co.za. McCain is a registered Trademark.
SACA ROund Up
World Association of Chefs Societies
Focus on the Culinary Olympics
The German Chefs Association talks about the
IKA Culinary Olympics 2012
In general, how do you feel the IKA Culinary Olympics went, in
comparison with previous year’s events?
It is very difficult to compare the IKA because of the four year gap between each of
them and the fact that different organisers were involved. But the IKA 2012 was the
event with the highest participation. We have never before had so many teams fighting
for medals and titles. Looking back it was an IKA full of harmony especially through
the work done by the volunteers, who did a great job.
What did you think of the standards of the entries from
the different countries?
There were so many different entries, making the IKA Culinary Olympics such a
diverse and colourful event. For example the Junior Team of Thailand attended the
competition for the first time and won gold. These surprising moments are what make
the IKA so special and unique.
Apparently the judging format has changed – can you tell me a bit
more about that? Do you feel it made the competition more difficult
to achieve medals in?
The judging changed only in the hot kitchen where you could find a separate judging
panel who judged the behaviour in the kitchen and another group who judged taste
and presentation. To get a medal was not more difficult than previous competitions,
we feel it is now judged even more fairly.
What were some of your greatest challenges?
It was a challenge to organise the Culinary Olympics with only a small number of
staff, while at the same time having to complete our everyday work.
What do you feel were some of the highlights of the event?
The emotion of the participants was fantastic to see. To see how happy and excited
they were to be in Erfurt. The teams have all trained for many months or years
together to be part of this big culinary family, and it is something very special.
What do you think you will be changing/improving on for next time?
This can only really be answered in the coming months after the board of directors and all
committee members come together and bring new and fresh ideas from the last IKA.
If you would give one piece of advice to the teams that will be
competing in the next IKA Culinary Olympics, what would it be?
Read the regulations, terms and conditions of the competition very carefully and the
competition will be much easier. Best wishes to South Africa; your team did a great job.
SACA launches Young Chefs Club in the Gauteng region
On 24 October 2012, the SACA Young Chefs Club Gauteng had its official launch event
at The Oak Leaf in Sandton. An initiative to assist young chefs succeed in the hospitality
industry, we wish the SACA Young Chefs Club Gauteng success in its future endeavours.
The SACA Young Chefs Club aims to…
• Reach culinary excellence through networking
• Promote professional cookery as a career
• Encourage and support the development of young chefs
• Inspire and stimulate young chefs and chefs-in-training by providing opportunities
for greater exposure to the industry, student support and professional growth
44 | CHEF! Issue 32
Klein Karoo partners
with SACA
Klein Karoo International, the
world’s foremost supplier of ostrich
meat, has recently partnered
with SACA to improve the
infiltration of ostrich meat into
the South African market through
demonstrations, educational
initiatives and informational
brochures to be distributed to
culinary schools.
Klein Karoo International offers
a wide range of ostrich meat
products prepared from choice
cuts, and SACA is pleased to
partner with a company that’s
products are fully traceable from
the farm to the fork.
Ostrich meat is low in fat and
lower in cholesterol than other
red meats. This, as well as the
iron content of ostrich meat,
can benefit people with an active
lifestyle. Klein Karoo ostrich meat
is available at leading supermarkets
country wide.
Competitions
Judge’s Dread
Competition day is the culmination of a lot of hard
preparation for the competitor, but this is also true
for the judges who have been given the responsibility
to ensure the correct results.
Jodi-Ann Pearton, SACA Competitions Director
A judge is an individual who has a lot of competition experience but
has also been through courses to ensure that the standards of judging
are accurate and fair. Each and every judge signs a contract promising
to be fair and unbiased no matter what the circumstances of each
event are. They are manned with the competition entry forms and
criteria well before the event and are briefed extensively to ensure that
they are all on the same page.
In a hot kitchen event there is always a kitchen judge who is in charge
of marking the conduct of competitors during the competition. This
individual is looking for the following in each competitor: correct
uniform, correct tools being used for various tasks, hygiene and safety
practices, utilisation of ingredients, wastage, as well as professional
conduct of all competitors.
The mark given by this judge is often the difference between medals
for many a contestant. The kitchen judge is also essential to ensure that
time checks are done regularly and that food is sent out timeously. The
additional role of the kitchen judge is to be present so that if anything
goes wrong in the kitchen during the course of the session, they are
there to assist. This may be in a first aid or maintenance role or even
just to keep the nerves of competitors in check as a mentor.
On the other side we have the tasting judges, a panel of objective
judges responsible for allocating points to each plate of food. These
points are based on visual appeal and presentation, use of ingredients –
especially when compulsory items are required – but most importantly
on the taste of the dish. The questions asked in the minds of the
judges include: Has this dish been seasoned correctly from a visual
perspective and with follow through on the palate? Does the plate of
food make sense? Do all the components on the plate work together
and are they all necessary? When I look at the dish does it have visual
appeal to make me want to eat it? Are the flavours harmonious and
delicious? Does every bite I take make me want to eat more? Is the
food representative of the season or theme?
The reason I want to point out these questions is that from a
competitor’s point of view you need to understand what the judges
are looking for. It is essential that the basic foundations of cookery
are adhered to, for example protein being cooked to the correct
temperature. I often judge with a thermometer and check (especially
when judging in the kitchen).
Some of the most basic points that are all too often forgotten by
competitors and quickly seen by tasting judges include simple
points such as a main course not having a starch, a minimum of two
vegetables, a sauce and a protein. This is a simple rule to follow yet
modern interpretation has meant that this is often not presented.
Another mistake we often see is an entrée portion being bigger than a
main dish portion. It just does not make sense.
All judging is done negatively. We start at 100 points and move
back based on mistakes. As a competitor, always ensure that you
request to see a judging sheet prior to competition day so that you
can see where the emphasis of the judging will be. Remain focused
and think about what the judge is looking for, and in this way you
just cannot go wrong!
®
®
CHEF! Issue 32 | 45
For more information about these and/or other McCain products, please contact the McCain Food Service Division Tel +27 11 856 6000, Fax +27 11 856 6001,
TOLL FREE 0800 006 498 E-mail us at consumer@mccain.co.za or visit our website www.mccain.co.za. McCain is a registered Trademark.
SACA ROund Up
Over R11 000 raised this
International Chefs Week
From 13 to 20 October 2012, culinary schools from across the country got
involved in the first-ever International Chefs Week, raising R11 570 for charity,
as well as initiating their own charitable activities during the week.
‘Turning up the heat’ on the annual International Chefs Day on 20 October,
the South African Chefs Association (SACA) created a week-long event for
student chefs to get involved in a good cause. International Chefs Week stickers
were sold at R10 each to raise money for the organisation Women and Men
Against Child Abuse, and schools from across the country were encouraged to
get involved in charities in their area during the week as well.
The SACA Gauteng Committee recently
showed off their cooking skills at the
Rosebank Rooftop Market with a cooking
station provided by Mac Brothers.
Even though it was a very busy week for the culinary schools, with exams and
other activities on the go, we are thrilled that so many schools took the time
and effort to take part in the initiative.
Makro Discount Card for all
SACA Members!
A big thank you to the following schools for making International Chefs Week
2012 such a success: Sondela Academy, Bela Bela; Capsicum Culinary Studios,
Boksburg and Durban; The Capital Hotel School, Pretoria; Tsogo Sun Centre
for Culinary Excellence, Auckland Park and Butlers Restaurant & Hotel
School, Kimberley.
Here is the final list of money raised by each school…
• Sondela Academy, Bela Bela raised R5000
• The Capital Hotel School raised R4220
• Butlers Restaurant & Hotel School raised R1000
• Capsicum Culinary Studio, Durban raised R750
• Tsogo Sun Centre for Culinary Excellence raised R400
• Capsicum Culinary Studio, Boksburg raised R200
A total of R11 570 was raised for Women and Men Against Child Abuse, an
organisation committed to fighting for the rights children to end the abuse
of children in South Africa by striving to form a multi-faceted, dynamic and
aggressive offensive against any form of abuse. Women and Men Against Child
Abuse was founded in 1997 as a Non-Government, Non-Profit Organisation.
Congratulations to Sondela Academy for rallying your students and
community together to raise R5000 for the good cause. As the school that
raised the most money, you will be awarded the R20,000 from SACA.
A special thank you and mention also needs to go to The Capital Hotel School
for raising a fantastic R4220. The Capital Hotel School went over and above
their sticker sales to create a raffle draw competition to raise even more money
for the charity.
SACA would also like to commend Butlers Restaurant & Hotel School
and Capsicum Culinary Studio for getting involved in their own charitable
initiatives. Butlers created an incredible one-and-a-half metre cake, which they
donated to the children’s ward at Kimberley Hospital. And, Capsicum Culinary
Studio Durban used International Chefs Week to carry on the great work that
they do every month for charities in the area.
As part of International Chefs Week, the patisserie students of Capsicum
Durban assisted The Association for the Aged (TAFTA) with their Christmas
Cheer Campaign, helping the association bake cupcakes and sell raffle tickets to
raise funds for old age homes in the area.
Thank you to the lecturers and students for getting involved in the firstever International Chefs Week 2012; we look forward to a bigger and
better event in 2013.
46 | CHEF! Issue 32
SACA is thrilled to announce that we have
partnered with Makro to present every SACA
member with a discount card to avail monthly
specials at Makro outlets throughout the
country! The card will be posted to members
from the beginning of November, so be sure
to look out for your SACA-branded card in
the post. Every
time a card is used,
a percentage will
go back to SACA,
assisting our work
for the chefs of
South Africa.
SACA gets involved in the ACSA
Disability Trade & Lifestyle Expo
There was a jam-packed programme of events at
the ACSA Disability Lifestyle Trade Expo and
Conference, which took place at the Sandton
Convention Centre from 6 to 8 September 2012,
and SACA’s involvement was one of the highlights
of the event.
This is the first time that SACA participated in
the expo, and the Association presented a series of
cooking demonstrations, encouraging chefs with
disabilities to create delicious decorated cupcakes
and freshly-baked biscuits.
“It’s not just about choosing the right ingredients
but also creative expression,” says Charl Kriek,
Events Co-ordinator for SACA. “We gave cupcake
decorating and biscuit baking demonstrations to
small groups of people, and then we let them loose
to create their own confectionary masterpieces!”
The ACSA Disability Trade & Lifestyle Expo was
an interactive, informative event and SACA is
proud to have been a part of it; encouraging and
motivating people living with disabilities to pursue
a passion or career in the culinary world.
A look back at the most successful
InfoChef conference to date
On 3, 6 and 7 August 2012, Johannesburg Expo Centre was teeming with students,
teachers, chefs-in-training and experienced chefs for a conference that was informative,
interactive and inspiring; setting the benchmark for further InfoChef conferences to come.
The conference was sponsored by Nestlé Professional, allowing the association to put on an
action-packed three day show.
Adding to the two-day conference for junior and senior chefs, new to this year’s InfoChef
Johannesburg conference was a day dedicated to the careers of high school learners and the
advancement of high school teachers too. Almost 400 learners packed into the Bateleur
Room of the Joburg Expo Centre to hear experienced professionals from the hospitality
industry give insight into their professions in concierge, hotel management and more. The
learners also got a better understanding of the pressure, commitment and skills needed to
pursue a career as a chef.
A day for culinary professionals to network, debate and discuss, Senior Day brought
together experienced chefs for an informative day of talks pertaining to ingredients, cheffing,
and restaurant industry. Pete Gottgens spoke very well about Michelin grading in the
modern world, while Lindt Chocolatier and Culinary Team SA Pastry Chef, Kevin Miller’s
chocolate demonstration was inspiring too.
Junior Day was a fantastic event for chefs-in-training, and chefs from almost every
culinary school in Gauteng were in attendance. Highlights from this conference included
an inspiring speech by President Stephen Billingham, insight into an international career
as a chef by Pete Gottgens, a talk on the ‘MasterChef experience’ by Andrew Atkinson,
Pete Goffe-Wood and Arnold Tanzer, as well as a demonstration and talk on molecular
gastronomy by Dario De Angeli of Cube Tasting Kitchen.
Over 1000 chefs attended InfoChef Johannesburg 2012, paving the way for a successful
InfoChef Cape Town and InfoChef Durban, which also took place this year.
®
For more information about these and/or other McCain products, please contact the McCain Food Service Division Tel +27 11 856 6000, Fax +27 11 856 6001,
TOLL FREE 0800 006 498 E-mail us at consumer@mccain.co.za or visit our website www.mccain.co.za. McCain is a registered Trademark.
Wineinterest
World
Glass
vs
Plate:
A Primer in Pairing Wine and Food
What makes a great pairing? How does one define the elusive “perfection” sought after by chefs in the
exercise? Maybe it was best expressed by a guest at a recent event who said “I didn’t know whether to
put my fork in my mouth or raise my glass to my lips next.”
by Debi van Flymen
A
fter recently attending a dinner at a very swanky
restaurant featuring a food and wine pairing evening, it
became obvious that many chefs don’t understand wine
and how to create dishes that pair well with it.
When wine is tasted, one looks for balance, length, complexity
and intensity in determining quality. To evaluate the wine from
a culinary perspective one needs to assess the fruit character,
the level of acidity, the palate weight, the tannin structure and
the residual sugar (assuming there is some) before being able
to create a recipe that will pair well with the wine. Think of it
as an exercise in body – there is a difference in the mouth feel
of full cream, low-fat and fat-free milk – similarly, wines have a
different feel in the mouth. Red and white wines can be light,
medium or heavy-bodied.
In order to best evaluate the wine, here are some sensory tests
you can do in the kitchen with a glass of your favourite white,
red and dessert wine on hand. Have a sip of the wine, rinse
your mouth with water and then taste through each exercise.
Afterward, have another sip of the wine and see how you are able
to better describe the wine after appreciating the variations.
Body and Mouth feel: Working from the water/milk mix to
the cream – notice the palate weight and body in your mouth.
At the start, the solution dissipates quite quickly in the mouth
and as you increase the amount of fat, it becomes mouthcoating and heavier. An important principle with food pairing
because heavier sauces – those with high fat content in the form
of butter, cream and possibly eggs, require a wine with higher
acidity (to stand up to the rich, creaminess) or equal body (to
match the rich, creaminess) otherwise the wine is lost in the
pairing.
• One glass with 25ml of water and 25ml skim, fat-free milk.
• One glass with 50ml skim, fat-free milk.
• One glass with 50ml low fat 1% milk.
• One glass with 50ml low fat 2% milk.
• One glass with 50ml full cream milk.
• One glass with 50ml pouring cream.
48 | CHEF! Issue 32
Tannins: These beasties can be found in the skin, seeds and
stems of the grape and the compounds contribute to the texture,
complexity and ageability of wine. Often perceived in the mouth
as drying and sometimes slightly bitter note towards the back
of the tongue; wines high in tannins often pair well with meats
and dishes with some natural fat where the tannins feel “softer”.
When you taste across these samples, notice how much more
astringent the liquid is the longer the tea has steeped.
• Fill 5 cups or glasses with 100ml of boiling water.
• Drop a tea bag into each cup or glass.
• Remove the bag from cup 1 after 2 minutes, cup 2 after 6
minutes, cup 3 after 15 minutes, cup 4 after 30 minutes and
cup 5 after one hour.
• Let each cup cool to room temperature before tasting from
the 2 minute cup to the one hour cup.
Acidity in wine results from both the natural acidity in the grapes,
any added acidity in the winemaking process (illegal in some
countries but allowed in SA), and potentially the process of MLF
or malo-lactic fermentation where the apple like malic acids are
transformed into softer milk like lactic acids.
MLF happens with some white wines –
most notably barrel fermented Chardonnay
and most red wines. Acidity is best described
in a wine by its mouth-watering quality. But
acidity is counterbalanced with sweetness
and many a chef has ruined a pairing by
serving a dish with a sweet sauce negating
the wine. In this experiment learn the
relationship between acidity and sweetness.
• Fill three glasses with 100ml of water.
• Into the first glass, squeeze the juice of
2 lemons.
• Into the second glass, squeeze the juice
of 4 lemons.
• Into the third glass, squeeze the juice of
8 lemons.
• Taste each from the least acidic to most
acidic. Now go back and add sugar
slowly to the middle glass and see how
the perception of acidity changes with
the addition of sugar. You will reach a
point where there is balance – not too
acidic nor too sweet.
Debi van Flymen owns Culinary Productions and is the General Manager for Wine Cellar in Johannesburg. She is a
Cape Wine Masters student, lecturer and avid writer and enjoys judging food and wine competitions worldwide.
Follow her blog at www.grapeslave.com
®
CHEF! Issue 32 | 49
For more information about these and/or other McCain products, please contact the McCain Food Service Division Tel +27 11 856 6000, Fax +27 11 856 6001,
TOLL FREE 0800 006 498 E-mail us at consumer@mccain.co.za or visit our website www.mccain.co.za. McCain is a registered Trademark.
Wineinterest
World
Summer Bubbles
This month we’re going to take a look at a selection of delightfully effervescent Champagne cocktails that
are perfect for any occasion. Light and dry enough to be perfect as an aperitif and refreshing enough for the
upcoming summer days, these versatile cocktails are an essential addition to any host or bartender’s repertoire.
Bellini
This was created at Harry’s Bar in Venice by
Giuseppe Cipriani around 1945. Venetian
bars traditionally serve this cocktail between
May and September when the delicious
white peaches that grow around Venice are
in season.
50ml peach purée
15ml Peach liqueur
Dash lemon juice
Top Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine)
• Combine ingredients except Prosecco
with ice in a cocktail shaker.
• Shake well.
• Strain into a chilled Champagne flute.
• Top with Prosecco.
• Garnish with a slice of fresh peach.
Airmail
The origins of this cocktail are
a little hazy but it seems to date
from the 1940s and the name
(according to cocktail historian
Dave Wondrich) comes from
a time when airmail was the
quickest way to get from A to B –
something this potent little drink
is bound to do for you!
25ml gold rum
15ml honey
15ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
Top Brut Champagne
• Combine ingredients except Champagne with ice in a cocktail
shaker.
• Shake well.
• Strain into a chilled Champagne flute.
• Top with Champagne.
• Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.
Hailing from Durban, Ryan Duvenage has spent 9 years behind the bar and is
bartender, trainer and consultant for the Barcode Bar Academy. He’s twice held
the title of SA National Cocktail Champion, has competed internationally and
placed 7th in the World Finals in Berlin, 2009. Visit www.mobilebars.co.za,
email info@barcodemobile.co.za or phone 0861 BARMOBILE.
50 | CHEF! Issue 32
Aperol Spritz
Another Italian classic, the spritz
is the perfect drink to enjoy in
the sidewalk cafés and piazzas of
Italy, but equally delicious on a
hot afternoon at home. Simple to
prepare, it makes use of Aperol,
a lovely, slightly bitter, orange
flavoured aperitif.
50ml Aperol
Top ¼ soda water
Top ¾ Prosecco
• Combine ingredients in a
highball or large wine glass.
• Stir.
• Garnish with a slice of
orange.
French 75
Variously made with both brandy and gin,
the French 75 is one of the quintessential
Champagne cocktails. There is a slightly
dubious story about the drink being
named after WW1 era 75mm artillery
guns but what isn’t in doubt is that this is
a fresh, clean and sophisticated classic that
has stood the test of time.
25ml London Dry Gin
15ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
15ml sugar syrup
Top Brut Champagne
• Combine ingredients except
Champagne with ice in a cocktail
shaker.
• Shake well.
• Strain into a chilled Champagne
flute.
• Top with Champagne.
• Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.
CHEF! Issue 32 | 51
Last
interest
word
A Quick Chat with
Prue Leith
Where do you get your
energy from?
I think I get my energy from having
had a really happy childhood. We
were free to flourish and encouraged
to do our own thing, even though I
was the despair of my father – when
filling out university application forms
he remarked that under my interests
he’d like to fill out ‘boys’ rather than
‘reading’! I’ve always been a glass halffull person, though, and when I’m
knocked back, I try and find a way
around the obstacle.
Have you ever been criticised
for not being a trained chef?
I was once put down very swiftly by
Gordon Ramsay. In an episode of his
television programme, he had played
up to the cameras by ripping a student’s
Cordon Bleu crest off of his jacket. I was
furious – it reinforced the antiquated
macho stereotype of chefs. I made a
speech at a function shortly afterwards
and said that I believed that some of our
kitchen practises were out of date and
that most chefs didn’t get the best out of
their kitchen brigade by shouting. Even
though I didn’t reference him in the
speech, the Evening Standard picked it
up and asked Gordon Ramsay what he
thought. He very cleverly and quickly
responded, “Who’s Prue Leith? Oh yes,
she’s the one teaching ladies how to make
avocado with raspberry vinaigrette.”
Have you run into other
opposition from chefs?
The graduates from the Leith’s Cookery
School were being snapped up by
well-known establishments around
London, but Chef Trompetto from the
Savoy Hotel refused to hire any female
graduates. When I asked him why he
52 | CHEF! Issue 32
South African-born Prue Leith was recently in South
Africa promoting her autobiography Relish. We spoke
to the culinary icon about her successes in the industry
and boundless energy to tackle industry wrongs.
didn’t want to employ female chefs, I
expected to hear the normal excuses
that women were a distraction to men
in the kitchen or too weak to pick
up heavy stockpots. However, I was
floored when he said that the reason
he didn’t want women in the kitchen
was that at a certain time of the month
they curdle mayonnaise!
What do you credit your
success in the hospitality
industry to?
I opened Leith’s, my restaurant, at a
time when the restaurateurs that were
finding success, such as Robert Carrier
and Albert and Michel Roux, didn’t
come from a traditional restaurant
background - Robert had been in
advertising and Albert and Michel had
been private caterers. I think that it
was these untraditional backgrounds
that made each establishment a success
– I designed Leith’s thinking like a
customer. There was no grand waiter
making one feel inferior, the menu was
written in English rather than French
and had fewer options as I hadn’t
been trained to cook vast amounts of
dishes. The success of Leith’s School
of Cooking also had much to do with
my unorthodox background as I had
found that graduates from catering
schools were skilled but had no love
of food. They lived off McDonalds
and I recall chatting with a young
student while he was preparing a box
of beautiful fresh squid - he pulled a
face and said that he would never eat
such a thing. Skills and techniques
were taught, but not flavour as it
was thought that, theoretically, when
the techniques were correct the
food would taste good. Thankfully
schooling has changed a lot since then.
Relish is published
by Quercus and
retails for R194.
The book recounts
Prue’s experiences
growing up in the
Northern suburbs of
Johannesburg, her
studies in Cape Town
and her move over to
the UK where she discovered
her passion for food. Her catering career
started out small, from operating out of
a tiny London flat it grew to the events
and party caterers Leith’s Good Food,
which counted the Orient Express train,
the Edinburgh International Conference
Centre and the Queen Elizabeth II
conference centre as clients.
In 1969 she opened Michelin-starred
Leith’s, her restaurant in London,
and later a cookery school, both of
which went against the grain of early1970’s catering trends and put the
focus squarely on flavour and food
cooked from scratch. the Prue Leith
Chefs Academy of Food and Wine in
Centurion was founded on the same
vision and opened in 1996. Prue’s many
achievements include being named
Businesswoman of the Year, hosting the
television series Great British Menu and
writing the indispensable Leith’s Cookery
Bible. While Prue is still involved in a
number of causes, including healthy and
nutritional dinners for school students,
she has turned her focus from foodie
pursuits to writing fiction.
Win a copy of Prue Leith’s book by
emailing sarah@shoutfactory.co.za
with the answer to this question:
What is the title of Prue Leith’s
autobiography?
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