- Wavelength Magazine

WaveLength
Your complete kayaking and coastal exploration resource
Volume 19, Issue 3
Summer 2009
FREE at select outlets or
by subscription
The tao of kayaking
MAGAZINE
Discover BC
A look at BC destinations
off the beaten track
PM 41687515
Become one with the paddle:
centered, balanced,
aware
Plus:
• Current Designs Infinity review
• Stern rudder stroke
• Kayak fishing
East Creek
Requiem for one
of Vancouver Island's
last pristine valleys
Contents
This month's features:
Regular columns:
10
Requiem for East Creek
Conservation
4
Editorial
6
Letters
8
News
24
Paddle Meals
by Hilary Masson
26
New Gear
32
Skillset
by Alex Matthews
38
Planning & Safety
by Michael Pardy
40
Fishing Angles
by Dan Armitage
by John Kimantas
14
New Vistas
Various contributors
20
Wind and Wonder
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Haida Gwaii
by Sheila Porteous
28
Into Infinity
Review: Current Designs Infinity
by John Kimantas
30
The Tao of Sea Kayaking
Health and Fitness
14
34
by Eric Soares
34
Pelican Primer
42
Reflections
Wildlife
by Terry Johnson
2
Discover BC
10
by James Michael Dorsey
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
3
The First Word
by John Kimantas
WaveLength Rediscovering old ground
magazine
Summer 2009
Volume 19, Number 3
PM No. 41687515
Editor John Kimantas editor@wavelengthmagazine.com
Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart
Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff.
Cover Photo:
Tao at sunset, near Mendocino, CA
Michael Powers
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© 2009. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine.
No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose,
except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.
Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with
the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2008, courtesy
of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some
elements that may appear on Wavelength maps.
Regular readers of this column will likely see a common theme emerging: how
thankful I am to live where I do (Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, BC, for the record). I'll
have to add to that I am additionally thankful for the incredible experiences I've been
able to enjoy here on the BC coast. Foremost among those was the three summers
I spent living by and large out of a kayak. The result was the
unusual credential of having kayaked almost all the BC coast.
That isn't to say I know all of it. But I can tell you, I am
intimately familiar with the coast through memories that
tend not to fade with time (unlike days spent in the office, for
instance, for anyone wondering if such trips are worthwhile). I
can remember just about every nook and cranny campsite I had
to tame, every encounter with a whale, every rocky precipice I
had to paddle past. I remember the storms and the cold, plus
the wet and the discomfort, but I have to be honest – even
those have a fond familiarity that beckons me back, to that world free from economic
and international strife to a time when the only concerns were what lay within the next
horizon and the shape of the clouds beyond.
This edition, with a focus on BC destinations, has brought a lot back for me.
Particularly poignant was a CD sent from friend Michael Luce showing photos from
his latest trip to Fiordlands – a destination I fell in love with as soon as I turned the
corner off Mathieson Channel and began paddling into Kynoch Inlet.
I often find myself planning trips by setting my mind back a few years and thinking
about which areas I would like to have lingered longer. The list is a long one. There
are pockets of paradise everywhere. For the past few years I have given a slideshow
and talk on my pick for the top 10 kayaking destinations in BC, which is a bit foolish
in a way as there is no possible way to rank areas. It's all so subjective. Wind, rain, loud
partiers at the last campsite or a pod of killer whales surfacing within paddle-length
will all shape your own impression of a trip and by extension the area. But that's a
bonus. You cannot predict your own experience, and what you encounter will never be
duplicated, by you (sadly sometimes) or anyone else.
So having promoted a "Top Ten" approach to kayaking in BC I'd also like to banish
the concept. After all, it's not the destination that makes a trip. It's the journey. That
thought is one of the reasons I think Eric Soares' introduction to "little tao" is entirely
apt, more so in a magazine advocating destinations. It goes with my philosophy for
life: The longer and more difficult the journey, the better the rewards you’ll find along
the way. (You'll hear that from me a lot, no doubt.) After reading over Eric's tao article,
I'm happy to see my approach to being on the water has been very tao-like without
even knowing it. But then I always felt a Zen-like connection between myself, my
kayak, my paddle and the water. I remember one trip trying to introduce someone to
kayaking, and getting the comment mid-trip, "If we had a motor on these things we'd
be there already."
I think that entirely sums up the concept of missing the point. Maybe that's because
we're so busy trying to get somewhere these days we're missing out on the journey. But
when you think about it, the journey is all there really is.
- John Kimantas
Nuchatlitz, Nootka Sound
(Vancouver Island)
4
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
5
Letters
Letters
Meet the real last fiord
The article in your Spring 2009 Wavelength magazine (The Last
Fiord) states that the fiord just outside Vancouver, Indian Arm, is
the southernmost fiord in North America. I do not think so. The
Hood Canal in Washington State is the southernmost as it is a fiord
and not a canal.
It was misnamed by cartographers many years ago when they
named it for Capt. Hood. They put CA. Hood, and the people that
make the maps thought they meant Hood Canal, not Captain Hood.
It is in fact a fiord.
Rick Chaffee
6
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
The inside view
on Clayoquot Sound
We live on Wickaninnish Island off Tofino (it harbors Tofino
from the open ocean) and have lived here for over 40 years. As
you have probably experienced if you come to Clayoquot very
often, the beaches are increasingly covered with fish farm plastic
and waste, the inlets have underwater lights on all night and some
have above water spotlights. If a person is camping, you wake up
in the night thinking it might be the full moon but it is fish farm
operations, and in the morning, booming rock music from the
many speakers broadcasting on the farms carries over the water,
along with the 24/7 generators that feed all this and then the
automatic feeders that tumble feed pellets continuously into the
pens. It doesn't make for a very natural experience.
Here in Clayoquot there are over 24 fish farm licences. I believe
about 20 are in operation holding between 10 to 14 or more pens
at each site. Each net pen holds from 20,000 to 50,000 salmon. In
the Mainstream operations they are all Atlantic salmon, voracious
feeders that prey on small fish attracted to the pens and lights.
They create a proliferation of sea lice that jump on these herring,
salmonids, cod and other young fish trying to survive in the inlets.
It is strange that people feel that if the salmon river is protected
and the inlets aren't, that is adequate for the wild salmon. It's easy
to forget how vitally important the rearing grounds of the inlets
are for wild fish survival. We have approximately 5 million salmon
being raised for private profit, most of it going to Norway, while
local people aren't even getting food fish
anymore, and it is unlikely anyone will eat
a farmed fish. We wouldn't. Would rather
be vegetarian. The pollution of the blood
water (the brine solution and CO2 plus
other things these fish farm companies
use to kill the fish slowly) – that is, the
sludge the fish are killed in on the bottom
of the barges en route to the processing
plant to make them "bleed out" so they are
easier to process – is so dangerous that it
is prohibited to be dumped near the farms.
But it does end up in Tofino's sewer system
where it is mixed with raw sewage to be
pumped out into the ocean. This plus the
sewage from the farms themselves, which is
equivalent to villages of up to 5,000 people,
is destroying the marine life in the area. It is
known that many seals, killer whales, eagles
and bears are starving with no fat on them
any more. While Norway profits, we are
losing. Norway also owns the pulp mill in
Port Alberni (Catalyst). What the logging
did to the wild salmon stocks, fish farms are
finishing off.
It is a challenge for people to speak
out as the many kayaking companies don't
want to discourage people from enjoying
the coast. But after a trip to Cape Cook
two years ago, and after living on the coast
for almost 45 years, having seen it in its
incredible beauty and purity, to experience
it now it is becoming a nightmare. There
are still places to "get away from it all" but
these are becoming a rarity. Rather, we
need to turn this around and stop it. All the
efforts in Clayoquot have been thrown back
in people's faces and it keeps eroding until
there will be nothing left. Our children and
grandchildren will be dumbed down as they
will not know what to compare the present
to. Likely they will find their own oases and
satisfaction, but hopefully it won't have
to be in entertainment systems or human
games rather than knowing the awe and
beauty of the natural world.
Steve Lawson
Clayoquot Sound
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
7
News
Wavelength funds
North Coast Trail
8
Wavelength Magazine
News
IPP targets Kaikash Creek
Syntex Energy Resources Ltd. has put
forward an application for an independent
power generation project (IPP) at Kaikash
Creek. It includes the Crown foreshore
and Crown land in the vicinity of Kaikash
Creek for a run-of-river power generation
facility. The area has been a forest recreation
campsite and one of the key marinebased campgrounds for whale watching,
particularly for kayakers, in Johnstone Strait.
The project involves the construction of a
power house proposed near the ocean on the
east side of the creek, an access road along the
penstock/river run plus power lines along the
shoreline to connect with the existing grid at
Beaver Creek.
The BC government's push for IPPs has
created a gold-rush-like rash of proposals to
generate power on most BC rivers. While
being billed as green (renewable) energy,
the concept has come under fire for its
environmental, visual and recreational
impact. Significant is that many of these
waters are fish-bearing and host to a variety of
users, in many cases including prime grizzly
habitat (such as the head of Bute Inlet).
Summer 2009
Environmental standards may be relaxed
to accommodate these projects. Leaked
documents obtained by the Wilderness
Committee cite removal of the ability of
Ministry of Environment officials to say no to
a project. See www.wildernesscommittee.org
Sea otter hunt planned
The Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council of
Vancouver Island and Canadian federal
Fisheries Department are negotiating a sea
otter hunt tentatively set at one per cent of the
population.
The sea otters re-established themselves
off the Vancouver Island after being
reintroduced in the 1970s. They were
extirpated – hunted locally to extinction – in
the 1700s, then relocated from Alaska to
Checkleset Bay. The original colony has now
spread along much of the Vancouver Island
coast. The Nuu-chah-nulth are planning the
hunt for ceremonial purposes.
Follow discussions and links on these topics
plus others on Wavelength's Forum at
www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum
Island record bid to aid GSA
Nick Castro will have his mind focussed
on 17 days, 4 hours and 49 minutes this
month. Less time than that is what it will take
to unseat the record set by Sean Morley in
circumnavigating Vancouver Island by kayak.
Morley set the record in October 2008, and
Castro will be looking to supersede it when he
sets out from Port Hardy in June and rounds
the island anti-clockwise – the same route used
by Morley.
A resident of Victoria, BC, Castro wants to
keep the record held locally. Earlier in 2008 the
solo speed record was set by Joe O'Blenis at 23
days. Beset with poor conditions and even lost
hatch covers, O'Blenis plans to regain his speed
record with an attempt in September.
To break Morley's record, the paddlers will
have to average more than 80 kilometers a day
(more than 50 miles).
Besides attempting to break the record,
Castro is using his trip to raise awareness
about ocean kayaking as a healthy and
environmentally sustainable activity. He is
also using it to raise money for the Georgia
Strait Alliance, a group working to preserve
and manage use of one of the most congested,
industrialized and environmentally challenged
waterways on the BC coast.
Meanwhile, the GSA has another backer:
the Bullitt Foundation, which is offering
a $10,000 donation if the GSA can raise a
matching amount.
To qualify for a matching contribution, new
members can sign up with a one-time donation
of at least $250, or a monthly donation of $21;
existing members can make a donation of at
least $250 more than the amount they gave in
2008; or existing monthly donors can increase
their monthly gift by $21.
The GSA must raise the first half ($5,000)
by Sept. 15.
For more information:
• Follow Castro's journey, including SPOT
map progress, at www.activeseakayaking.ca.
• Learn about the Georgia Strait Alliance or
join/donate at www.georgiastrait.org.
• Join news updates and an often lively
discussion on circumnavigating Vancouver
Island on the Wavelength Forum at
www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
9
Conservation
East Creek
by John Kimantas
East Creek
Requiem for
How one of Vancouver
Island's last pristine
watersheds was allowed
to quietly slip away
I
found myself standing
awkwardly in knee-deep water off
the beach, hand outheld like some
odd parody of the Statue of Liberty. This
offered the best reception I could find for
the marine weather forecast, which was still
fading in and out in a rhythm oddly akin
to the nearby waves. Blame the campsite
deep in Klaskish Inlet, one I picked for
the location directly across from the East
Creek estuary. Poor radio reception was
an unexpected side-effect of my location
within a clustering of adjacent mountains.
Weather forecasts are a lifeline along this
part of northwest Vancouver Island. The
next leg of my journey after exploring East
Creek was around Brooks Peninsula, the
legendary barrier of mountains known for
its storms and wind. I was in no hurry to
cross it, content to take as long as possible
for a weather window, but the typically
cryptic Environment Canada weather
forecasts had been even more cryptic than
usual these past few days, ending with the
ominous warning of a coming storm but
no details of when.
With arm outheld I was finally able to
piece the latest forecast together: winds
calm tomorrow morning, rising to 10-20
knots in the afternoon, with an approaching
southerly storm front expected to hit
the next day. It wasn’t a perfect weather
window, but one I was going to have to
10
Wavelength Magazine
take. Mornings of calm winds are a rare
enough forecast for anywhere on the BC
coast in the summer. At Brooks you take
such breaks and run with them.
The plan didn’t take long to formulate:
a 4 a.m. launch to beat the afternoon
winds likely off the most exposed area
at Cape Cook. This would
get me ideally to a beach
campsite on the south end of
Brooks Peninsula in the early
afternoon, where I could set up
to prepare for the onslaught.
My rushed departure meant
one unfortunate change of
plans. I’d lose a day meant to
explore East Creek. When I
paddled away the next morning
East Creek's estuary.
in the pre-dawn black, it was
my last visit to this area for
many years to come.
The logging was protested, but the result
That was 2003, when a glimmer of hope
was hardly a victory for environmentalists.
remained for the East Creek estuary. At
The Sierra Club led the rally with a Save
the time it was one of the last remaining
East Creek campaign. After a short flurry
unprotected, pristine watersheds on
of activity in 2003, interest died. Internet
Vancouver Island, a status soon to be lost.
updates end virtually that year. The Save
LeMare Lake Logging of Port McNeill
East Creek website is now gone. Interest
was granted approval from the province
evaporated and East Creek was forgotten
for 480 hectares (1,200 acres) of logging.
as a cause.
By building a road they also made it easier
For Save East Creek campaign organizer
for Weyerhaeuser, then-owners of adjacent
Jill Thompson, it was a bitter outcome. She
logging rights, to push through and log
says the value of the creek was never in
farther into the valley.
u
Summer 2009
Rainforest at Klaskish Inlet.
Few places on Vancouver Island can match the formidable presence of Brooks Peninsula. Its
snow-capped peaks can be seen in the distance to the right. This photo is taken from Side Bay.
The peak to the left is Red Stripe Mountain, a previously logged area. The gap beyond Red Stripe
is Klaskino Inlet, another possible point of entry via logging road or a good anchorage for the
hardy boaters who pass this stretch of coast. The mouth of Klaskish Inlet, this day's destination,
is in the distance between the last headland and the snow-capped peaks.
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
11
Conservation
Kayaking East Creek.
12
Wavelength Magazine
East Creek
question – in fact, Thompson says even the government recognized the values of
both East Creek and Klaskish River, known for its salmon, elk, wolf and marbled
murrelet. But somehow these areas were left outside the borders of Brooks
Peninsula Provincial Park when it was created in 1995.
“Nasparti, Power, Battle, East and Klaskish were like a bite taken out of an
otherwise continuous protected area, and they had excellent fish and wildlife
values and recreation, for those hardy enough to get there, but MoF (Ministry of
Forests) didn’t think there were enough of you to be worth it,” Thompson says.
The Save East Creek campaign ran into barriers as formidable as the
environment. Too remote for an active base and with no nearby home
community, there was no way to anchor a protest. And financial backers were
equally elusive.
“Big funders thought of it as a lost battle, and had moved their money to
the more promising Great Bear Rainforest. We connected with some members
of the Quatsino First Nation and learned a bit about their history there, but
they were similarly overstretched with other demands on their attention and
resources,” Thompson says. “In the end, I think we (Sierra Club and the Ministry
of Environment) got a few reserves for marbled murrelet established, but it was
massively disappointing. By that time, the BC Government had gutted a bunch
of the previous conservation tools, and the MoE had no bargaining power
whatsoever – basically they got what the companies agreed they could have.”
A haven for kayakers exploring north Brooks Peninsula and Side Bay, as
well as a few adventurous boaters, the headwaters at Klaskino Inlet captured
the attention of BC activist Ingmar Lee. His plan was a reconnaissance of the
forests of East Creek and the ancient Klaskish village of Tsowanachs at the
mouth of Klaskino. With the blessing of the Quatsino First Nation he searched
for culturally modified trees – evidence of the traditional use by First Nations
Summer 2009
possibly long ago.
“By counting the rings in the
calluses that grow across the
barkstrip, or planksplit wounds, we
can get an idea of when people last
lived in these forests and how far
and wide they traveled through them.
So little is known about this village,
and there is a lot to learn from the
amazing story that is written in these
CMTs,” Lee says.
An unexpected find was what
appeared to be an ancient trail near
the East Creek estuary. “I’m certain that
it’s a human made path because it runs
so directly along the easiest route over
the lie of the land. The trail has been well
maintained by animal traffic judging by the
purple piles and all the tracks, since the last
human passage, perhaps 200 years ago,”
Lee says. It appears to have once connected
East Creek to Tsowanachs, with culturally
modified trees liberally dotting the trail’s
length. The pair measured one ancient red
cedar at a 14-foot diameter, making it the
eighth largest cedar on the planet. A hollow,
burned-out center large enough for 10
roads that lead to either Side Bay
or Klaskino Inlet. Five years after
my first visit I finally found the
time to return, and entered via Side
Bay. Snow almost barred our entry
as we crossed the pass from Port
Alice. A few days earlier and the
route wouldn’t have yet been plowed
for the spring. We launched with
the thermometer barely above the
freezing mark – the price to pay for
an early April visit. But we gained
the advantage of the unusual sight
of snow on the Brooks Peninsula peaks.
Thankfully after a portage up the
shallows at the mouth of East Creek (we
didn’t time our arrival well for the necessary
high tide), we found the lower valley largely
undisturbed. East Creek can be paddled for
about a mile, offering a rare look into the
interior of Brooks Peninsula – so long as
you don’t look up to the valley-top logging.
For Thompson, it’s a bitter contrast.
“It deserves better,” she says.
Brooks Peninsula in April.
people provided shelter for Lee during a
blasting storm.
While surrounded by such history,
evidence of more modern use is never far
away. “Dreadfully, at times we can hear
snippets of the rumble and roar of big
logging on its way here at the moment,” Lee
wrote during his stay.
A trip to Brooks Peninsula is never easy;
getting there involves long miles on land
well past the end of the asphalt then more
travel on water. You can approach from the
south via Fair Harbour in Kyuquot Sound
or from the north via convoluted logging
Summer 2009
<
Visit Lee's website at ingmarlee.com and his
film on East Creek at cathedralgrove.eu
Wavelength Magazine
13
Discover BC
Fiordland
New Vistas
Wavelength looks at some of BC's least visited
but most enticing kayak destinations,
starting with little-known Fiordlands
Lessum Creek.
Elaine McRory photo
Fiordland is rich in waterfalls, such as the one at Lessum Creek near the entrance of
Kynoch Inlet, as well as McAlpin and Lisette Falls in Mussel Inlet. The latter earned its name
from Capt. George Vancouver's ill-fated trip in 1793 when paralytic shellfish poisoning
claimed the life of shipmate John Carter. Nearby Carter Bay commemorates the 24-yearold seaman. The scene below shows typical conditions for the region – cliffs, water and
fog.
If only
people
turned right
at Klemtu when heading up British Columbia's Inside Passage. But they don't. The pleasure boats
cruising this route to Alaska invariably continue north through Princess Royal Passage. Those who do
turn right, and head up Mathieson Channel, will soon find themselves in the exceptional Fiordlands
Conservancy – an area well worth a few days for boaters and kayakers alike. Every year Washington
State-based brothers Michael and James (Jamz) Luce explore a new remote region of the BC coast, or
rediscover an old one. This past year they explored the Fiordland region for 10 days with friends Mike
and Elaine McRory.
The Fiordlands Conservancy protects Kynoch and Mussel Inlets, two glacially created fiords
characterized by sheer granite cliffs dropping more than a kilometer at points into the ocean. It's not a
place to visit lightly. Accessible areas suitable for camping are few and far between, while some of those,
such as the estuaries, are prime grizzly habitat. Watch also for strong diurnal winds.
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Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Morning fog
near Mathieson Point, Pooley Island
James 'Jamz' Luce photo
If you go:
The only community in this region is
Klemtu. BC Ferries (www.bcferries.com)
stops here, making it an ideal launch
point. The Kitasoo First Nation also offers
rentals, accommodation and cultural tours,
including a cabin in Kynoch Inlet. Visit
www.klemtutourism.com. For park info,
visit www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks.
West Kynoch Inlet.
Michael Luce photo
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
15
Discover BC
There's a new way
to enjoy north
Vancouver Island.
And it's beyond belief.
Beyond paddles
For years most of Vancouver Island's north coast was off limits to just about all but the most hardy
paddlers. After all, the closest community is Port Hardy, and from there you must cross windy Goletas
Channel, potentially dangerous Tatnall Reefs then the reef-infested and potentially rough waters
towards Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island.
Once you arrive you'll find something you probably didn't expect: miles of sand beaches comparable
to tropical destinations, and most often with no other soul in sight. In idyllic paddling conditions it is
paradise. For this reason it has grown as one of BC's most desirable veteran kayaking destinations.
The fan base can widen now the North Coast Trail is complete. The land trail opened in May 2008, and
offers the chance for foot access to many previous inaccessible portions of the Vancouver Island coast.
But don't for a moment think the area will lose its charm now foot traffic is possible. The trail is remote
and in parts extremely difficult. Expect it to be among the more elite hikes, comparable to the more
famous West Coast Trail but without many trail improvements. What you will find is 58 kilometers of
sometimes easy beach walking, sometimes grinding headland scaling and one lengthy meandering stretch of mostly boardwalk across
boggy overland near Shushartie Bay. Either way, by paddle or by foot, it is an experience not to be missed.
16
North Coast Trail
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Leanne Chetcuti tackles a tough portion
of trail, aided by ropes placed at the most
difficult stretches of the North Coast Trail –
which are many.
Photos by John Kimantas
If you go:
The North Coast Trail is a continuation
of the established Cape Scott Trail. From
Nissen Bight it continues 43 km along the
top of Vancouver Island to Shushartie Bay,
where a water taxi is needed to return
to Port Hardy. A shuttle service to the
trailhead at San Josef is available; see
northernvancouverislandtrailssociety.com
for details. Wavelength Magazine's parent
company, Wild Coast Publishing, has
produced a map detailing the trail. Visit
www.wavelengthmagazine.com. See
www.wildcoastmagazine.com North Coast
Trail pages for detailed trail information.
Imagine the West Coast Trail 20 years ago
before today's many bridges and ladders
were built. The North Coast Trail evokes
that earlier era of pristine but rough trail.
Kudos to Leanne of Team Wavelength
who finished the NCT just days after the
opening last May, making her the first
female on record to complete the hike. The
overall inaugural hike is chronicled at
www.wildcoastmagazine.com
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
17
Discover BC
A worthwhile Mission
Photo by Fran Solar
Just off Kyuquot Sound on Vancouver
Island is a magical little cluster of islands
called the Mission Group. It may well be
the perfect kayaking destination, with
sandy beaches, sea arches, a rich native
history plus a sense of wildness magnified
by the proximity to the wild and mythical
Brooks Peninsula. Prime sea otter viewing.
photos courtesy Dave Pinel, West Coast Expeditions. See www.westcoastexpeditions.com
If you go:
You can launch from Fair Harbour in
Kyuquot Sound or at Artlish River. A water
taxi from Fair Harbour is the easy way to
the archipelago, as is the MV Uchuck from
Gold River. Accommodation is available at
Sea Otter Lodge (see the ad page 43) while
West Coast Expeditions hosts tours from a
base camp on Spring Island in the Mission
Group (see the ad page 46). Air Nootka
provides the region's plane service.
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Summer 2009
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
19
&
Discover BC
Wonder
Wind
Rennell Sound.
Buck Tombolo.
Exploration of Queen
Charlotte Islands is at first
intimidating, then enchanting
– once the wind calms down
T
South end of Gillan Tombolo.
20
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Haida Gwaii
by Sheila Porteous
he winds were blasting over the diminutive island
at fifty-plus knots. The tents looked like soggy clumps
of paper huddled in the grass; and me, I was standing
with my head cocked to one side, with raindrops pelting my face,
wondering what I was doing here. After spending the first two
nights of the trip on the aptly named Refuge Island holed up in
a rustic cabin, the thought of kayaking down the West Coast of
Graham Island seemed barely plausible.
The plan to spend two weeks here was conjured up by a welltraveled group of Vancouver Island paddlers. I had been sucked in
by the romantic notion of unspoiled shorelines, endless beaches
and the adventure of a lifetime. (I never stopped to consider
why this ‘spectacular destination’ was still relatively untouched.)
Graham is the largest of the Queen Charlotte Islands, or Haida
Gwaii in the more traditional name. Being unfamiliar with rainy
expeditions that lasted longer than one week, I was truly beginning
to panic. I wanted to go home. Fortunately, I was too ashamed
(and afraid) to turn my kayak around, head back to Old Masset
and beg the wise village elders to take care of me for a few weeks
while my friends continued on.
On the tail end of the storm we set out to tackle Virago Sound,
soon to be the most challenging kayaking I had ever done. With
the current and swell opposing, the seas were a confusing mix of
waves. As I floundered across feeling like a kernel of corn in a
hot pot, all I can remember is chanting “paddle, paddle, brace!
Paddle, paddle, brace!” The drunken fishermen that were
rushing toward their luxury lodges in their 14-foot runabouts
yelled over the wind that we were “crazzzy.” That didn’t help.
And the trip had just begun.
But eventually the weather did break and the spectacular
sights began to emerge. I never understood that a rainforest is
really a temperate jungle until I paddled and camped along the
shores of Graham. Wandering through the forests I realized
that I could dig down with my bare hands for several feet
and still not reach hard-packed soil. The vegetation was so
abundant that I couldn’t take a single step without crushing
a living organism, and I always felt like I was walking on the
clouds. The dampness of Haida Gwaii permeated my clothing,
my shoes and my heart, yet I never felt cold; quite the opposite.
I was left feeling warm, nourished and somehow revived. The
more time I spent the more content I became.
The bountiful plant kingdom was matched by the abundance
of ocean creatures. Almost every day the majestic humpbacks
kept us company throughout our long and sometimes lonely
journey. Each night we hiked a bluff to look toward the next
day’s destination, and gazed upon distant whales that were
setting out toward the horizon. The eagles and ravens clung to
the mountainous shores like bees to a hive, crying to each other
with their haunting prose. Incidentally, it wasn’t all smooth
sailing in the animal world. Black bears posed no trouble.
Instead I was beset by the intertidal life. Setting up a tent meant
clearing pristine moon snail and top shells off the beach, plus I
almost flipped my kayak more than once staring at the myriad
of colored urchins just under the waves.
I must mention that my paddling partners were some of the
most exciting wildlife on the trip. An eclectic mix of
u
Kelp blown up by the windstorm
litters the beach at Refuge Island.
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
21
Discover BC
Haida Gwaii
Pillar Rock dwarfs a kayaker.
unique individuals, they are imbued with
a profusion of wilderness survival skills.
From repairing a flat tire using driftwood
for a jack, to building ovens big enough
to bake goodies to feed the whole group,
to packing enough construction tools to
make a handyman proud, they could do it
all. Thanks to a cooking competition that
began with the first collective meal, my diet
and waist-line both expanded more than
one could imagine while traveling in the
middle of nowhere. One of my fondest
memories was gazing at the peaks of the
snow-capped Queen Charlotte Mountains
while noticing that the stern paddler in our
team's canoe was sitting back, sipping hot
tea and appreciating the sights while his
wife propelled them along.
As the trip neared its end I was able to
finally appreciate how the Haida people
had developed their culture over some
10,000 years along these remote and hostile
shores. The fantastic remains of the Haida
settlements are scattered throughout the
islands at regular intervals. (Surviving
villages have protectors called watchmen
who may grant permission to respectfully
explore the remaining village sites. Dustin
Edgars took us on our own personal
tour of Kiutsa, the largest original native
settlement in the area.) Throughout our
travels we appreciated the wise territorial
choices of the preceding native people. We
often camped on ancient Haida territories
where the beaches were protected from
the incoming Pacific swells, where the
headlands sheltered us from the winds and
provided lookouts to scope out the next
day’s paddle.
Material sources were infinite. Our own
diets were supplemented with the same
abundant seafood the Haida would have
consumed. Even with all the hardships
of the trip we were well protected and
nourished by the very lands that I had
feared just a few weeks before.
Kayaking around Graham Island I
experienced much more than the rugged
The author paddling in Skidegate Inlet.
Photo by Joanne Nicolson
coastline, crashing surf and unpredictable
winds that the West Coast of the Queen
Charlottes is infamous for; I was stimulated
by a landscape that hums with the perpetual
spirit of life. I was honoured to experience
the underlying rhythm of this stunning
archipelago. Although I have been home
for many months, my dreams are still filled
with vivid yet indescribable sensations from
these intriguing islands. The mountains and
surrounding seas resonate with an unseen
energy that left me looking for something
that I will never be able to see or touch, but
I may spend the rest of my days searching
for. The essence of Haida Gwaii, or “the
Land of the People,” has penetrated my
soul and I ache to return to this desperately
beautiful haven to search for the ancient
spirits, and myself, once more.
<
Sheila Porteous is a certified kayak guide
with the SKGABC and Level 1 sea kayak
instructor with Paddle Canada. She hopes
to use the skills and knowledge she has
gained so far to encourage people to break
through their barriers and join the paddling
community. sheilap@shaw.ca
<
Rocky outcrop near blowhole, Naikoon Provincial Park.
22
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
23
Paddle Meals
by Hilary Masson
Outer Island Oyster
A
t the southern end of
Gabriola Island, where the tidal
rapids from False Narrows and
Gabriola Pass meet, is a paddling paradise
which contains a rich diversity of sea
life. Growing up here instilled local
seafood harvesting as an important
aspect of my life. Whenever I kayak,
be it in Baja or in BC, fishing and
shellfish harvesting is often a focal
point for my kayak expeditions.
The meals shared while camping in
spectacular locations create memories
that last forever, especially if the meal
includes fresh seafood which was
harvested right at your campsite.
While guiding a paddling trip from
my Gabriola Island home to the outer
more remote Gulf Islands, I served a
meal that was an extravaganza of oysters.
On the beach where we camped there was
a healthy population of oysters and clams.
I had previously checked the Department
of Fisheries and Oceans website for any
PSP (paralytic shellfish poisoning) closures,
commonly caused by ‘Red Tide,’ and
Extravaganza
confirmed the area was open to all but
butter clams. Contrary to popular belief
the summers in the Gulf Islands are mostly
open; however, it is very important that
you research your paddling destination
and determine contamination closure
locations and the PSP-outbreak status. It is
also important that you have a valid
fishing license and abide by harvesting
regulations.
I recommend bringing an oyster
shucker and adding it to your cutlery
in your camp kitchen. Both of these
recipes are hard to make without one.
Cooking the soup over the fire is great
because it’s a one-pot meal, and the
oyster appetizer is ideal over the fire
too. If you will be cooking over a fire
then check for summer fire bans for
your paddling destination. Respect the
fire bans. If you can’t have a fire, try
oysters on the half shell on your barbecue
at home, or broiled in the oven.
<
Hilary Masson is a guide and part owner
of Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. doing
business as Silva Bay Kayak Adventures in the
summer in BC.
Oyster on the half shell appetizer and Thai seafood soup
Ingredients:
800 g of grated cheddar cheese
250 ml of Thai Sweet Chili sauce
Fresh oysters with shells
Instructions:
Place whole oysters on a grate over fire, or
on your barbecue grill. Wait 4-8 minutes
until the top shell has opened up from
steaming the oyster in its own juices. Get
the oyster shucker and (with an oven mitt)
use it to carefully pry off the top shell. Take
a knife and cut off the muscle that attaches
the oyster to its shell. Pour approximately
1 tablespoon of sauce on each oyster, then
add a sprinkling of cheese covering the open
shell. Place the oysters on the grate again to
melt the cheese. Enjoy this simple recipe as
an appetizer that even people who are not
oyster enthusiasts will love!
Spectacular Thai Seafood Soup
Mix this Asian blend of spices and put
enough in a film container, then pack in
24
Wavelength Magazine
your camp kitchen spice bag. This makes a
lot, so you can store the rest in an airtight
container at home for more Asian recipes.
Spice Ingredients:
2 tablespoons ground ginger
2 tablespoons ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground tumeric
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper
1 tablespoon ground cardamom
Soup Ingredients:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons Asian Blend spices
from above recipe
1 liter or 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
(tetra packs fit well in the kayak)
1 tablespoon grated lime rind
1/3 cup uncooked long grain rice
1 can coconut milk (400 ml)
6 large mushrooms, sliced
2 green onions, chopped
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Summer 2009
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 kg of oysters, clams and prawns (any one
of these seafoods works well on it’s own too)
Instructions:
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium
heat. Stir in Asian Blend of spices, saute 1
minute. Add broth and lime rind; bring to
a boil. Stir in rice. Cover, reduce heat and
simmer 15-20 minutes so rice can cook.
Stir in coconut milk and mushrooms; cook,
stirring occasionally for 5 minutes. Stir in
oysters cut into bite size pieces, clams (rinsed
and drained), prawns, chili powder, green
onion and cilantro. Cook for 5 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in lime juice.
Garnish with more cilantro if desired and a
lime wedge.
Yield: 4 servings but recipe can be doubled
for a larger group. Enjoy this one-pot meal
on your next kayak trip or at home. The
Asian blend spices can be used again and
again for more Spectacular Thai Seafood
Soup.
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
25
New Gear
New Gear
Cobra
Go PVC-free: here's why
If you're like the average North American male who goes giddy over
electronics, you'll love the new Cobra MR HH125- 3 Watt Waterproof
Handheld VHF. It's one of the smallest, most versatile and most
affordable yet, with a backlit LCD display and keypad for low-light
conditions and built-in NOAA channels and weather alerts. It runs on
recyclable AAA batteries (included), and comes with a DC cigarette
lighter charger for recharging on the go. Or replace with five standard
AAA batteries, meaning continuous use on long trips where recharging
isn't possible. www.cobra.com.
PVC is one type of plastic you don't want in your arsenal of kayaking gear. Dioxins are
produced in the production of PVC, and over the lifetime of the product a cocktail of toxic
chemicals are released back into the environment. It can't be recycled easily, and if burned or
incinerated it releases more dioxins and toxic gases. If landfilled, it will release additives that can
damage groundwater. For good reason more and more manufacturers are advertising PVC-free
products. Here are several from the growing selection.
Aquapac
Cascade Designs
Win a
Cobra!
Fill out the 2009 Wavelength readership
survey online and enter a draw to win
a Cobra MR HH125- 3.
Visit www.wavelengthmagazine.com
NRS
As well as PVC-free, Aquapac adds to the
equation that its waterproof belt case is 100%
recyclable. For keys, cash, passports and more,
the belt case is submersible to 15 feet and
comes with a belt or slip it onto your own.
Also look for Aquapac's range of
lightweight, flexible and durable waterproof
camera cases. www.aquapac.net.
MEC
Talk gear!
Join Wavelength's online gear discussion.
Learn and share.
www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum
26
Wavelength Magazine
This new super-durable PVC-free map case
from the Sealline family of Cascade Designs
features a secure roll-down plus hook and
loop closure, convenient tie-down tabs, and an
adjustable neck strap. Take your pick of small,
medium or large. We're happy to report the
medium fits the BC Recreation Kayaking and
Small Boat Atlas quite nicely. (Phew!)
www.cascadedesigns.com
Transparent drybags are always a bonus – no digging around
to ferret out something out of sight in the bottom. MEC's new
line is made of non-PVC 0.5mm polyurethane film with radiofrequency welded seams. The bottom is 800-denier PU-coated for
extra durability. An oval shape helps with packing. But don't fully
submerge – for expensive or vulnerable items, look for hard cases
with o-rings or padded waterproof cases. www.mec.ca
Summer 2009
And now something for the women, with apologies that it isn't a bit more
flashy or glamorous. But any woman who has sat for several hours in wet
pants in a kayak will know glamour isn't always a top priority. The NRS
Women's Athena Dry Pants are constructed with breathable 70 x 320-denier
ripstop HyproTex 2.5 fabric with fully taped seams , latex gaskets at the
ankles and 3-mm neoprene band seals at the waist to keep the water out. A
handy thigh pocket stores items you need close at hand. www.nrs.com
Platypus
Any connoisseur of wine knows the taste changes when exposed to oxygen.
If not preserved properly, the lifespan can be measure in hours – not good when
you're out kayaking for a week. Enter the PlatyPreserve, which can be used to
remove oxygen from the container. The bad news: there goes your excuse for
finishing the entire bottle in one sitting. www.platy.com
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
27
Review
Yellow Point, Vancouver Island
S
ometimes it takes an
extraordinary event to fully
appreciate a kayak. And we got one
of those, in spades, during a test of the new
Current Designs Infinity.
We had been playing it rather safe. When
we invited this issue's guest reviewers
along for an outing, it was under casual
conditions in Nanaimo Harbour. A
circumnavigation of Newcastle Island
provided an introduction to the sporty
boat for members of the BC Marine Trails
Network Association, a group working
towards establishing a paddle trail from
Washington State to Alaska.
And so we all gained friendly first
impressions of Current Designs’ latest
entry into the ever-more-crowded skeg
boat category. You might be wondering
why another skeg boat if you’re familiar
with CD’s legendary Gulfstream, a longtime industry leader among fans of North
American-built Brit boats. But the two are
quite different. For the Infinity, Current
Designs has lengthened the Gulfstream,
knocked out some of the rocker, flattened
the hull bottom, made the beam narrower
(22 inches versus the Gulfstream’s 23.75
inches), and generally made it a highly
sporty option.
The result, as you might have guessed
by the description, is not a beginner’s boat.
The Infinity is a specialty boat that will be
at home in surf and rapids as much as it
is on flat water. As we found out. That’s
because our ad hoc Team Wavelength (in
this case myself, Leanne Chetcuti and Carey
28
Wavelength Magazine
Current Designs Infinity
by John Kimantas
Into Infinity
Lockwood) got a chance to take the Infinity
out to Nuchatlitz at the northwest end of
Nootka Island. I thought the maelstrom
off the reefs that surround Nuchatlitz
Provincial Park would provide the rough
water test. But the real challenge turned out
to be the trip back up Espinosa Inlet. The
weather changed from calm to gale force
almost instantly, and in minutes we were
being propelled by gusting winds above 30
knots. Williwaws (whirlwind squalls) kicked
up and we were surfing whitecapped wind
waves. In the Infinity it was a surprisingly
gentle ride.
The basics: The Infinity cockpit is
designed for a generally larger paddler. Our
test group’s smallest female members were
not feeling confident with their fit. Those
nearer the 6’0” range of the scale found it
fine. Given the narrowness there is some
initial twitchiness but the overall stability is
good thanks in part to the flat hull design.
Tracking with the skeg is a breeze. The
Infinity is well-equipped with a day hatch
behind the cockpit, an adjustable skeg
lever, easily adjusted footrests and rubber
Win this kayak
Current Designs has graciously offered
to place the Infinity in the array of
kayaks being offered in Wavelength's
2009 kayak draw. See page 37 for more
information on how to win.
hatch covers that are surprisingly simple to
remove and reseal.
The rating
Touring: The Infinity is billed by CD
as a large expedition sea kayak for British
boat design aficionados. For those out
there not used to Brit boats and skegs, be
warned the Infinity's skeg housing divides
the stern hatch space (a hazard of any
retractable skeg model) which in this case
is already split by a day hatch (again, a
hazard of the design). Brit boat fans likely
won't have a problem; it's the nature of the
beast. Others (like me, for instance, who
is spoiled by the bottomless pit of the CD
arsenal, the old Expedition) might be left
head-scratching figuring out where to put
Current Designs Infinity specs
Length Beam
17.9' 22"
Summer 2009
Depth
13.5"
Cockpit
Total storage Weight
31.75"L x 16.5"W 209 liters
52/48 lbs
Newcastle Island, Nanaimo Harbour
the big-ticket items. The upside is the day hatch is great for loads of
miscellaneous gear – a feature I grew to appreciate when organizing
odds and ends (I got lazy and dumped, a strategy that worked well).
Playing: Being a sports boat, this is what the Infinity is really
all about. It is well designed for rolling, a key feature being a low,
flexible backrest – handy for fans of rolling, but not necessarily a
fit for everyone (one tester found it shy on lower back support for
touring). Overall the Infinity is ideal for fans of surf, rapids, rolling
and more technical kayaking.
Stability: Initial stability is good and secondary stability very
good. It tracked on or above par for a skeg boat in both broadside
and following weather – a definite strong point to the design.
The positives: We tested the Kevlar model, and have to vouch
for the weight savings on an already light model (48 pounds Kevlar
versus 52 pounds fiberglass). The difference is notable when
loading. Thoughtful accessories are found throughout the design,
such as the easily-accessible locking footrest adjustment levers.
Overall: Buyers should note this is a specialty boat. Thankfully
it also looks good on the straightaway and rides comfortably for
most larger size ranges, making it an option for casual kayakers who
may want to grow into a performance boat. The bottom line is the
Infinity does what it is meant to do; Brit boat fans will no doubt
debate the degree to which it succeeds compared to other boats for
years to come. So let the debate for the best Brit boat rage on as it
finally reaches Infinity.
About our guest testers
Wavelength Magazine invited directors of the British Columbia
Marine Trails Network Association, a group so new the ink is barely
dry on the incorporation certificate, to help test the Infinity and
provide feedback. The group of representatives from kayak, paddling
and outdoor clubs and associations from across BC has been
busy for about a year now working alongside the BC government
to establish a series of kayak havens along the BC coast from
Washington State to Alaska and all points between. The result will be
a network of safe havens, campsites and launch locations protected
in perpetuity for use by self-propelled and beachable boatcraft. Visit
www.bcmarinetrails.org.
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
29
Health and Fitness
30
Wavelength Magazine
of sea kayaking
the sea. Smell the salt in the air and listen
to the crying of the sea birds. Watch a swell
from a mile away slowly make its way to
your beach and break, then slip back to the
sea in the rip current. Contemplate the tide
as it completes the massive yin and yang of
its cycle. See yourself surfing around a sea
stack to hide from the wind.
Test the waters
The second activity is child’s play. To
really understand water, stand under the
waterfall and feast on the negative ion
barrage. Or go to a beach with breaking
waves, walk barefoot up and down the
beach with your feet barely in the water.
You may at first be too conservative and
Summer 2009
end up out of the water. Then you get
closer to the water, find that you are too
slow and a wave hits you. The next thing
you know, you are running and skipping and
leaping up and down the beach, frolicking in
the magic foam. Doesn’t the foam feel good
as it twinkles your toes? Before you know
it, you’ve gotten hot and need to dive into
the water to cool off. Ahh! You experienced
the rhythms of the surf first-hand and had
a really good time. The tao is so easy. If you
can’t do this, have a child show you.
Swim like an otter
Since you are swimming, why not take
the opportunity to body surf? If you feel
eager, here’s what you do. From the shore,
photo by Michael Powers
photo by Jim Kakuk
In the midst of the cosmic swirl.
Remain calm in the midst of chaos.
photo by Nancy Soares
TAO
photo by Michael Powers
The
wade through the waves, turning sideways
as each one hits you. When the wave is
big enough that you might get knocked
backward, dive under it and let its force
pass over you. Walk out until it’s difficult
to touch bottom and swim around a bit to
acclimate. Pay attention to the incoming
surf. When a big wave comes and is just
ready to break, swim as hard as you can
down wave until you feel it engulf you.
Then stiffen your body so it resembles a
surf board or a dolphin, and effortlessly
glide down the wave as long as you can.
When the wave spends itself, dive down to
the bottom and swim out to sea. Then set
up for the next wave. At this stage, you fully
understand the sea. You and the sea are one.
It’s time for caveats. If you can’t swim
well, don’t go out in any body of water until
you become proficient. Also, don’t swim
alone, in case something happens. If the
water is really cold, wear a wetsuit. Should
body surfing appear too much for you, start
by swimming in lakes, snorkeling in lagoons
in the ocean or take a swim in the municipal
pool. There is no need to push yourself.
Surf like there’s no tomorrow
You already have paddling skills, so now
take the lessons learned from body surfing
and apply them to surf kayaking. Upon
arrival at the beach, repeat the first three
exercises. Observe the water, waves and
wind. Do you like what you see? If not,
don’t go out that day. If you do, put on your
wetsuit, run along the beach to get your
blood moving and test the waters. Do you
still feel like getting in? If yes, then swim
around a little. Feel good? If affirmative,
body surf a couple of waves. Still feel
confident? If you are, get in your boat and
go surf kayaking. You and the water are
synched. Without reservation, go for it 100
per cent. This is the tao of surf kayaking.
Know your mind
The untrained mind plays tricks on us.
Does your mind go blank while paddling?
You suddenly realize you have paddled 450
meters without knowing it. This may seem
like a good thing if you must paddle 25
miles, but spacing out in zombie mind is not
the tao.
How often have you had a conversation
in your mind while paddling? If you are in
the middle of a long crossing, it seems like
a worthwhile way to stave off boredom. But
Tune into the water, tune in to the tao.
photo by Glenn Gilchrist
W
e’ve all heard of the
Tao, Chinese for the Way. In the
great Tao, the great Way, one
embarks on a lifelong sinuous path which
begins with an understanding of one’s
self and nature and leads to unity with the
cosmos. For those not ready to flow with
the universe, there is also the little tao, a way
of doing things in an efficient, playful and
natural manner. In the little tao, one seeks
spontaneous, authentic ways to do things,
while being centered, balanced, aware and
skilled. Of interest to us is the tao of sea
kayaking. Here are a few suggestions to help
us unite with the cosmos of the sea.
Understand water
Some kayakers are good at checking the
internet for information on tides, water
temperature, swell size, wind direction
and speed, and the weather forecast. They
ensure that their GPS is working, so they
will know where they are when on the
water. This is an important aspect of sea
kayaking, but its focus is on the water, not
in the water. Unlike yachting, an on-water
activity, kayaking is in-water. You can
literally touch the water at will. And when
you paddle in the sea, the water can touch
you at any time. It’s essential to understand
the sea by standing under the sea, so to
speak. This means let the sea envelope you
and teach you its secrets. This is the tao of
sea kayaking.
Water is a key concept in Taoism. Water
always takes the path of least resistance and
flows around obstacles rather than directly
opposes them. It constantly changes,
slipping downhill like a stream, or surging
in and out like the tides. Since our bodies
are mostly water, it is natural for humans
to understand water. Yet some people have
acquired an aversion to being in water. Here
are some exercises to help you be one with
water and get more out of sea kayaking
with less effort.
Sit and watch the river flow
The first exercise is relaxed observation.
Simply go to your nearest natural body
of water, be it Walden’s pond, a babbling
brook, a river, or the sea, and stay by it for
a day, just observing it in a casual way. As a
sea kayaker, you’ll want to spend a day by
the seashore, whether it be the rocky coast
of Maine or a sandy beach in the Sea of
Cortez. First thing, take in the vastness of
The Tao of Sea Kayaking
by Eric Soares
Follow the way, enter new dimensions.
mental chatter is monkey mind and not the
tao.
Zombie mind and monkey mind can
occur while sea kayaking: “I was paddling
along, thinking about stuff, doo-de-doo,
when a wave appeared out of nowhere
Summer 2009
and wham.” To avoid zombie and monkey
thinking, instruct yourself to be alert for
it. When it occurs, identify it, dispel it
and instead tell your mind to relax, stay
perceptive, and concentrate on what is
around you and what you are doing. In
short, be mindful. To help your mind stay
alert, on your next paddle in the ocean, skirt
along the coast just outside the surf a few
feet. You will learn to be mindful or wham.
When staying mindful becomes natural in
the water, you are on the path.
Train your body
Have you ever gotten exhausted while
kayaking? Has your back hurt? Have your
wrists or shoulders given you problems? Do
you gasp for breath after going through the
surf? If any of these things occur, you may
need a workout regimen to help your body
relax and excel in the ocean.
We’re not talking about Iron Man
training, just having your body do what you
want it to do so you don’t get hurt and you
move efficiently. The Taoist art of tai chi
is a series of gentle martial exercises that
increase chi (energy) flow, improve flexibility
and balance, regulate breathing, correct
posture and help you move your body in a
natural, flowing motion. If you do tai chi
regularly, your health will improve, and your
body will function at a high level.
Temper your spirit
Why do you kayak? For most of us, there
are many reasons, some of which we are
not aware. Some people want to show off,
others need to prove something. For some
paddlers it’s a notch on their bucket list.
The Taoist goes out in a kayak for the pure
enjoyment of messin’ around in a boat.
When your spirit is engaged fully in the
activity of sea kayaking, you experience a
unique satori (enlightenment). Because you
observe water and experience it in many
ways, you understand its nature. When
everything comes together, your spirit soars
through the aquasphere. This is the tao of
sea kayaking as I have lived it. But don’t take
my word for it; experience it yourself. Your
path will differ from mine; that is natural.
From what you have read here, take what is
useful and leave the rest.
<
Eric Soares lives in Ashland, Oregon, and
paddles the western Pacific coastline with his
Tsunami Ranger friends.
Wavelength Magazine
31
By Alex Matthews
photos by Rochelle Relyea
Skillset
Skookumchuck Narrows, BC
Stern rudder strokes
Use aggressive torso rotation and a fully
submerged blade.
A
stern rudder stroke is
desired course.
held comfortably in front of your chest. A
the most powerful means of making little trick to ensure that you’ve achieved the
When practicing the stern rudder,
small course corrections without
strive to produce minimal drag from your
desired position is to drop your paddle – it
slowing your kayak’s forward momentum
ruddering paddle blade. The blade should
should fall directly into the water without
too much. While sometimes erroneously
be slicing cleanly into the water, and not
bouncing off of your kayak first. From this
perceived as a turning stroke, the stern
flaring out to the side, splashing lots of
position you can use the power of torso
rudder is really a steering stroke – it’s
water, or creating drag. Having said that,
rotation to push away with the backside of
ideal, for instance, when gliding through a
in some surfing situations (like very steep
your paddle blade to steer your kayak.
tight gap too narrow for other strokes to
waves), including a breaking element in
From this same setup position, you can
be used. The stern rudder will also help
the stroke may be desirable. A paddler
also draw water towards your stern with
you stay on track when paddling in wind
can choose to intentionally introduce drag
the power face of your blade, which is
and waves. And it’s the key paddle stroke
by prying out to the side, in a bid to stay
called the stern draw. However, because the
that you’ll use to control your kayak while
higher up the wave’s face, thereby reducing
stern pry is so much more powerful than
surfing.
the chances of burying the kayak’s bow in
the stern draw, we’ll use the pry the vast
There are actually two forms of the
majority of the time, and simply alternate
the wave trough.
stern rudder: the stern pry, and the stern
sides (right or left) as needed to steer the
Also, experiment with combining boat
draw. We’ll look at the vastly more
angle with your stern pry. Edging
powerful stern pry first.
your kayak one way or the other
To set up for the stern pry,
will yield different handling
completely submerge your
characteristics and provide even
ruddering blade as far back as
more response and fine control.
is comfortable, with the paddle
Edging away from your stern
parallel to the kayak. This will
pry is particularly effective when
provide your stroke with the
steering a surfing sea kayak. As
most power while minimizing any
always, practice on both sides
braking effect. To do this, you’ll
and develop a smooth and
need to use some aggressive torso
efficient transition from one side
rotation, which means turning
to the other – this is a skill that
your whole upper body towards
will pay immediate dividends on
your ruddering blade. This rotation
your next surf ride.
<
will keep your hands in front of
Adapted from “Sea Kayaking:
your body in a powerful position
To practice on flat water, build up some speed before planting your Rough Waters” by Alex Matthews
and protect your shoulders from
stern pry.
available at www.Helipress.com.
injury. The front hand should be
32
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
The dropped paddle trick verifies correct
posture.
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
33
Wildlife
Pelican
primer
T
he corner of my eye
catches a blurred streak crashing
into the water, and I know my old
friend the brown pelican is fishing.
It is a rare paddling day that I am not
surrounded by these huge coastal seabirds
that have become so habituated to man
they usually allow my kayak to approach
within feet as they bob on the surface
between dives.
Those of us who frequent the water
have all seen them hurtling their bodies at
impossible speed into the briny blue and
have probably asked, “How do they do
that without a brain injury or a headache at
least?”
Pelicanus occidentalis, commonly known
as the brown pelican, is the smallest of
eight species of pelicans but among the
largest of seabirds. At 42 to 54 inches tall,
with a wingspan of 6 to 8 feet, it is second
in size only to the great albatross, and yet
Summer plumage.
34
Wavelength Magazine
Summer
Summer2009
2009
Brown pelicans
By James Michael Dorsey
with its compact stocky body and long
beak, it manages to be both dramatic and
comical at the same time.
They live 25 to 30 years, reaching their
mature feathered plumage at about three
years. And while an adult pelican weighs
only about 12 pounds, it will consume
roughly a third of its body weight daily in
small herring-type fish.
The brown pelican has a long, twisted
neck that has the seventh and ninth
vertebrae fused, thus prohibiting it from
straightening that long neck. It ends in a 12inch beak with an expandable pouch, which
is the fleshy lower part of its jaw and the
largest pouch of any known bird.
So, about those head-crunching dives:
the pelican is a plunge feeder that cruises
over the water watching for the silver flash
of baitfish near the surface. It then tucks
its wings and legs, diving headfirst like a
kamikaze into the water. The deeper the
fish the higher the pelican will begin its
dive, and has been known to fall from as
high as 100 feet. They are unique among
sea birds in that they have air sacs in their
clavicle and under the skin that absorbs
much of the impact of these plunges.
Watching a hundred of these birds fishing
at a time is a majestic sight.
Once it breaks the surface, it expands
the large pouch that can take in as much
as three gallons of water and fish, acting
like a large scoop, and then throws its head
back to drain the water out through side
slits in the beak. The pelican will swallow
the fish whole as it has no teeth and always
eats immediately after the catch rather than
transporting fish in its beak. It is common
to see gulls trying to pull fish from the
pelican's pouch, often sitting on its head to
do so as the pelican is a most inoffensive
animal and allows these scavengers great
latitude in stealing its work.
Pelicans often travel in flocks consisting
of both male and female, and love to fly in
a V formation, taking turns drafting on the
wings of the lead bird (think NASCAR).
From these formations they strafe the
waves in search of food, and it is common
to find dozens of them hunting in a small
area.
They are not taught to hunt by their
parents but learn to do so by trial and error.
Immature birds do not fare well due to this
lack of experience, and it is believed that
almost one third of yearling birds starve to
death because of this. As a result they are
also great scavengers who haunt docks and
fishing launches looking for handouts – one
reason why they often approach my kayak.
Their nesting and breeding habits are the
really cool part.
These birds tend to gather in large
colonies sometimes called a rookery, and
nest very close to each other. The male
will pick a nesting area, sometimes on the
ground and sometimes in a tree. He will
court the female with an elaborate series
of head movements, trying to not be so
aggressive she is frightened away. The
female will take a couple days to make up
her mind, (does this sound familiar?) acting
coy, but also being aggressive enough to
show other male suitors her interest in the
original head bobber.
In a large rookery, this mating dance
can get quite comical, almost like being on
a disco floor in the ’70s. Also during this
ritual they are known to make a popping
sound that is the result of them snapping
their jaws.
If she is interested, the male will bring
her sticks, branches and twigs (and what
female can refuse a free tree branch?) that
she will begin to weave together into a nest.
Sometimes the nest can get very elaborate,
especially those in the trees. It can take
Summer 2009
Winter plumage.
as long as ten days for this job to be
completed and the lovebirds then move in.
Once the happy couple has taken up
residency, the first of three eggs will appear
within three days, with a day between each
egg. Both parents will take turns incubating
the eggs. Since the pelican has extremely
vascularized legs and feet (lots of blood
vessels), this keeps the eggs warm until they
hatch in about one month.
u
Wavelength Magazine
35
Wildlife
Brown pelicans
At birth the chicks are totally helpless
and the parents will feed them by
regurgitating food onto the floor of the
nest for them to peck at. At about ten days,
they have begun to grow feathers and will
also begin to take regurgitated food directly
from the parent’s beak at this time. If food
is scarce only the strongest chick will be fed
to assure its survival and the others will pass
away. The chick needs to eat a lot to store
body fat because at just 11 weeks he or she
is ready to face the world on its own.
Immature birds are known to make a
raspy croaking scream but as adults they are
mostly mute except during mating.
So now that you have the basics, it is
time for the really unusual facts.
You would think because of its
enormous pouch the pelican would also
have a large tongue, but in fact it is about
the size of a toothpick. Because it has to
swallow fish whole, a large tongue would
just get in the way. It also uses that long
beak to gather oils from glands at the base
of its tail to preen and waterproof its
feathers. For areas it cannot reach with its
beak, the bird has a serrated middle nail on
its webbed foot that takes care of this job.
When the pelican gets too hot it will
open its pouch and flutter the sides, causing
an air flow to evaporate surface moisture.
This is a cooling process similar to humans
sweating.
The only real enemy these birds
have is man. During the 1960s
DDT almost made them extinct,
but fortunately they made a
comeback and today their numbers
are climbing.
Because they never pass up
a free meal I have had them
approach me for an occasional
anchovy that I often scoop out of
the water to feed them, and once I
had a very tired youngster make a
crash landing on my deck. He got
twisted under my deck bungee and
took a header into the drink. He
was completely embarrassed until I
could free his captive webbies.
Observing these unique
creatures has taught me a great
deal about the interconnection
between man, animals and the
ocean, and I consider them a
paddling partner to be appreciated.
Our way to say thanks.
Go on. Pick one.
Wavelength Magazine is
thanking our subscribers with
a draw for a choice of these
kayaks. Everyone who subscribes
or renews is automatically
entered to win.
For complete information on each model,
visit www.wavlengthmagazine.com
1. Seaward
Quantum
2. Delta 16
They are the rare sea bird that actually
drinks saltwater. They have no nostrils but
instead have glands that reside between the
3. Current
Designs
Infinity
eyes and beak that allow them to distill the
saltwater and pass the brine off in large
droplets. Gulls have this same ability.
<
James Michael Dorsey can be reached at
whalekeeper@yahoo.com
4. BoréalDésign
Epsilon C100,
C200 or C300
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36
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
37
Planning and Safety
Kayaking and relationships
I
was at a dinner party
recently with a number
of other kayakers. And as
kayakers are wont, we turned
our conversation to paddling.
We quickly exhausted the
usual topics – the relative
merits of various pieces of
gear, our latest on-water
adventures, and our paddling
plans for the summer.
More interesting was the
conservation that followed. It
started when J (who is single)
bemoaned the shortage of
single paddlers and the challenges she faced
when trying to introduce her latest partner
to the sport. Apparently things weren’t
going well on the water between J and her
partner. Soon most of us were sharing our
own challenges, misadventures and lessons
from paddling with our families, wives,
husbands and partners. It was a rich vein
for conversation and kept us going for over
an hour.
It also got me thinking about the
experiences of other friends, family and
colleagues. Over the years I have had
versions of this conversation with my
parents, my wife, my son, friends of the
family and others. There is also a growing
body of literature about relationships in
outdoor sports. It is clearly a sensitive issue,
but also an important one that speaks to the
pleasures and challenges of kayaking with
people emotionally important to us.
Kayak outings
need not be
a shortcut
to divorce court
I have tried to look for underlying
themes in these conversations and support
this anecdotal evidence with the technical
literature. There are two main challenges
that have emerged as consistent issues
facing families and couples in outdoor
sports.
Different Goals and Expectations
One person’s passion is another’s parttime pastime, which can lead to conflict
over time, money and commitment. Many
Kayaking couples
by Michael Pardy
couples and families want
to spend time together
recreating; conflict arises
when limited resources
have to be allocated. It
is easy for one person
in a relationship to feel
undervalued in the face of
a passion. One paddling
friend actually describes
herself as a kayak widow
in the face of her partner’s
passion.
Even if all members of
the family enjoy paddling,
they often enjoy paddling for different
reasons. This point was brought home to
me several years ago when my wife and I
were planning a multi-day trip on the west
coast with our four year old. I was looking
forward to a few days on the open coast.
My wife was more interested in exploring
the local ecosystem. But it was my son who
really brought the point home. His priority
was to spend time with his family, regardless
of our destination. We all wanted to go
paddling, but for three distinct reasons.
Reconciling differing goals and
expectations is not easy. The first step
is actually articulating a set of goals
and expectations. The second step is
compromise. Not all goals and expectations
can be accommodated in a single trip. Often
family members and couples will have to
create space for another’s passion. But
equally, the passionate paddler will have to
give up some water time for other priorities
or work toward other goals on trips.
Learning from a Partner
Many friends expressed their frustration
at learning from a more experienced
partner. The learners all expressed
feelings of vulnerability, which often went
unacknowledged by the teacher/partner.
The teachers often felt frustrated by the
lack of speedy progress of their student/
partner. The student-teacher relationship
is based on a fundamental inequality
that can be incompatible with our social
relationships.
Many couples agreed it was better to
learn from an independent instructor. If
couples insisted on teaching and learning
together they offered the following advice.
Teachers, acknowledge that learning
takes time, practice and patience. Offer
suggestions, not commands. Accept that
your partner may not share your passion.
Be honest about your own abilities,
knowledge and experience.
Learners, accept that your partner may
not be the best teacher, regardless of how
much ability, knowledge and experience
they have. Acknowledge that your partner
wants you to succeed so you can enjoy the
activity together. Be honest and gentle in
your feedback.
I have had to work through many of
these issues in my role first as boyfriend,
then husband and now father. My wife
occasionally reminds me I am lucky
to still be around because early in our
relationship I tried to teach her how to
whitewater canoe. My tone of voice and
style of teaching were better suited to
working with male teenagers (with whom
I had been teaching for a few years). The
situation came to a head after a particularly
challenging afternoon, and if we had been
paddling a shorter canoe, she would have
decapitated me with the paddle! I am
happy to report we survived these early
experiences and we continue to enjoy our
time on the water together as a family.
When asked what skills would have
the most impact on their enjoyment of
paddling with their partners and families,
most folks emphasized the need for better
communication. Specifically, folks talked
about the importance of listening to what is
being said (and left unsaid), creating a time
out for communication so the pressures of
time and risk can be mitigated, and making
sure everyone has a chance to talk.
None of this is new information to
couples and families. What is perhaps new
is its importance in paddling, where many
of us turn to get away from the demands of
work and family.
Exploring BC?
<
Michael Pardy lives in Victoria, where he runs
SKILS Ltd. He can be reached at info@skils.ca.
Discover Wavelength's
recreation map series.
• Desolation Sound/
Discovery Islands
• Broken Group /
Barkley Sound
• Clayoquot Sound
At all major retailers or online
at wavelengthmagazine.com
38
Wavelength Magazine
Summer 2009
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
39
Fishing Angles
Weighing anchor
L
ast spring, boating made
national news due to an anchoring
mishap involving several
professional athletes, three of whom lost
their lives. As soon as I heard the anglers
were fishing a sunken wreck in the Gulf
of Mexico, I had a handle on what had
happened. Having fished offshore wrecks
myself, I know that you need to anchor the
boat to remain over the structure and the
fish the wreck attracts. I also know how
dangerous that can be when waves or wind
or current – or all three – kick up and start
dashing an anchored boat around. Unless
you have a way of quickly releasing that
anchor line, the conditions can quickly
conspire to swamp the boat, using the force
of the unforgiving tether against those of
the sea. I suspect that the anchor line on
the ill-fated boat in question was made
tight to a cleat on the bow, and before that
line could be loosed – by untying the knot,
slipping the noose or cutting it outright –
the damage had been done and the boat had
swamped.
Those same forces come into play
aboard any boat that is linked to the water’s
bottom via an anchor, and few craft are as
vulnerable to the consequences as a kayak.
Anglers considering using an anchor to
stop or slow their kayak’s passage must
weigh their options – and each situation –
carefully.
Anchors are powerful tools for anglers,
allowing their boats to remain in position
within catching range of the fish being
sought. The bottom-hugging devices are
also dangerous in current, a condition that
kayakers frequently – and intentionally
– surround themselves with. Avoiding
immersion in our favorite element is a
matter of knowing when and where an
anchor is appropriate and when it is not. It
is always risky to anchor in current, and the
consequences of a lightweight boat coming
to a dead stop when an anchor suddenly
catches can be quick and dangerous.
40
Wavelength Magazine
Anchors or stakes can be used
to keep the kayak in place
while fishing, even if the angler
is not aboard.
Staying put a simple
do-it-yourself
project with a little
rope and chain
The most important part of a kayak’s
ground tackle, as anchoring gear is known
in boating circles, is found on the boat end
of the rig. You must be able to quickly
release the anchor line, or rode, if you find
yourself in a situation that risks swamping
your craft. Several styles of quick-release
jam cleats are available and popular with
paddlers, devices that are mounted on the
gunwale that use the line’s own tension to
keep it snug without having to tie off with
a knot or use a loop. A quick flick will loose
the line and free the kayak from anchor.
Some kayakers place a colorful float on the
end of the line to allow them to spot it and
retrieve the anchor rig once they gain more
control over the situation.
On the positive side, it doesn’t take much
weight to slow or stop the progress of a
boat as sleek and light as a kayak. Anchors
designed for paddle-powered craft are much
smaller than those intended for traditional
boats, and weight is only one factor in an
anchor’s design. Anchors use weight, shape
or a combination of both to achieve their
task. Grapnel anchors are relatively light in
Summer 2009
Kayak anchors
by Dan Armitage
That’s why many fishing kayaks are fitted with trolley systems down
one side of their boat, either home-made or available as aftermarket
accessories or options from some manufacturers. These clotheslinetype rigs allow infinite adjustment of that anchor or pivot point
from the comfort of the cockpit, yet maintain the all-important
quick-release safety feature.
A final anchoring device, the stake, is popular with anglers who
get out and wade, using their kayaks simply to get to and from the
fishing grounds before exiting the craft to pursue their quarry on
foot. Just remember to keep a close eye on the wind, current and
tide when walking away from a staked-out kayak; an oversight could
leave you up that creek without paddle or a boat.
<
Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest.
He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show and
presents kayaking fishing seminars at boat shows.
Grapnel, for gripping, and chain for gliding are two extremes in kayak
anchor designs.
weight but their claw-like arms grab and
hold subsurface structure such as rock and
wood to tether their craft in place. Compact
mushroom anchors rely on weight more
than shape, and are best used on mud or
sand or structure-free bottoms. Between
those two extremes are anchors of various
shapes and designs, many home made.
A do-it-yourself anchor
One favorite do-it-yourself anchor
among kayak anglers is made of short
lengths of 3/8-inch-diameter chain
attached to the end of a line using a snap or
carabiner. Having a few foot-long lengths
of a dozen links or so allows the angler
to quickly attach only as much weight as
is needed to anchor or slow the drift of
a kayak. A benefit of the chain is that its
shape is such that it rarely hangs up on
rocks or other structure, making it a favorite
among fishermen in current who want to
slow their drift to a pace that allows them
to work an area with casts without stopping
altogether.
Another issue is the anchor point on
the kayak itself. Many kayak anglers prefer
the anchor line to be snug to the boat’s
stern, so that the wind or current is at the
angler’s back, making for easier casting
and a unobstructed view “downstream.” A
kayak’s shape dictates that the safest anchor
in terms of stability is off the bow or stern,
but in cases when the wind and current are
moderate, you can vary the anchor point
along the length of the kayak to better
position yourself with regard to your target.
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
41
Reflections
Writing reflecting the spirit of paddling
Mixing it up in Killarney
“C
ome on – put in on,”
prods Rebecca, my 14year-old stepdaughter.
She prances around to show me that
wearing a lifejacket upside down like a
diaper is not embarrassing or un-cool
at all.
“Just do it! It’s so fun.” With
complete abandon, she does a little jig
on the rock, and then leaps into the
lake with a splash.
“Dia-per-BOB, dia-per-BOB,”
chant Rebecca and her sister Victoria,
trying to coax me to stick my legs into
the armholes of my zipped-up life jacket,
wiggle it up past my butt and bob around in
the lake with them.
We were on a one-week paddling
vacation along the outskirts of Killarney
Provincial Park in Ontario. Denis, my
husband, his two girls Victoria, age 12 and
Rebecca, and our dog Tanzer were on this
adventure we had talked about for years.
Now, we were finally doing it.
We had stopped early today. This cute
little island we checked out for a midmorning blueberry-picking break proved
too nice to leave. Now it looked like “diaper
bobbing” was going to be the afternoon
entertainment. I finally gave up my dignity
and donned the diaper, struck a pose on the
rock, and to the sound of applause, jumped
in.
We had seven portages planned for our
second day moving along the northwest
side of Killarney. We were coming up
to our third portage when Rebecca, my
paddling partner for the day asked, “Can I
carry the canoe?”
“Wow! Sure you can!” We got out and
unloaded. I showed Rebecca the easiest way
to pick up a canoe.
“Stand in front of me there, Beck, and
help me roll it up. Do it together ... ready
... keep the bow on the ground ... up ...
that’s it.” We stood holding the canoe over
our heads. I told her to let go and move up
to get under the yoke. Gingerly I lowered
the canoe to rest on her narrow shoulders.
Rebecca lifted the bow off the ground
42
Wavelength Magazine
Canoe trip proves
the perfect outing
for blended family
and stood a moment balancing the canoe.
Dad went nuts with the camera snapping
pictures.
Rebecca gamely headed down the
trail with me behind in case she needed
to take a break. A slippery root almost
spelled disaster, but she strained, paused,
rebalanced the canoe and continued on
for the entire 280 metres. I helped her
take the canoe off and we high-fived each
other. Her flushed face broke into a wide
grin of accomplishment. I grinned with
accomplishment as well. That high five was
a little moment that we could call our own.
Near the end of the day I heard Tanzer
splash into the water just ahead of me,
though she is not a water dog. I came round
the corner with the canoe on my shoulders
and there, not six feet from me, were two
otters rising so far out of the water that
they looked like little totem poles.
Diaper bobbing, an activity combining
relaxation with a complete loss of dignity.
Summer 2009
Kayak With Comfort
By Terry Johnson
They began to “psht” at me – a wet
noise of air forced out of their nostrils.
Tanzer stood frozen on shore. I kept
still with the canoe not wanting to scare
them off. They flared their nostrils,
twitched their whiskers and pulsed up
and down in the water.
“Psht,” I said back to them, and they
looked at me with renewed interest.
Finally, I heard a noise behind me.
“Look at the otters!” I whispered.
“Oh!” Vicky gasped. I put the canoe
down and the otters moved away
slightly. I could see two more otters – an
adult with three young. The adult was sitting
on a log next to the shore eating a piece of
fish. Her sharp teeth gleamed as she fiercely
chewed with an open mouth, and we could
hear the wet smacking sounds. She slipped
into the water and all four of them glided
farther away. The young ones peeked back
at us once, and then began to playfully roll
over each other.
We watched together in silence, and then,
“That was so cool!” Rebecca said.
Back home the girls and I gathered
around the kitchen table with the full
Killarney map spread out.
“Who can draw our route on the
map?” I challenged. Rebecca picked up the
highlighter and began to retrace our trip.
“And this portage is where we hid under
the boat from the lightning ... and ... this
is the campsite Vicky got busted with her
candy-stash in the tent. And this is the
beach we had the water races ... ”
Looking back we could see the distance
we covered, paddling and portaging
completely by our own power; carrying
everything we needed to live. The challenges
of the portages and headwinds are like the
challenges faced by a blended family. Both
require some work, but the rewards are
always worth it. We caught eyes, united in
our appreciation of ourselves – and maybe
a little closer now than when we left.
<
Terry Johnson is already planning her next
paddling adventure. Visit her at
www.terrylynnjohnson.com
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1 Inside Passage
1 Inside Passage
Experience Nature in Comfort
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Luxurious
Waterfront
Lodge, Cabins
& Platform Tents
• Kayak/Yoga Retreats • Wildlife & Bird Watching
• Family & Group Holidays • Clubs • Meetings
RENDEZVOUS ISLAND, BC CANADA
www.solstuawest.com
HEALING WATERS BEACH RETREAT
TAKE1.indd 1
10/8/2007 10:59:53 PM
Cortes Island, BC Canada
2 Bedroom Cottages Sandy Beach, Warm Ocean Water
Double Kayak Rentals
Beachside Wood Fired Hot Tub
Home base for up to 10 kayakers
250-935-6409
www.cortesisland.com/healingwaters
healingwatersbeachretreat@hotmail.com
Private Island Paradise in Kyuquot.
Rustic Elegance on the West Coast
of Vancouver Island. Bring your own boat
or kayak. Uchuck cruises weekly.
Boat Charters & Kayak Transport.
1.888.920.6075 info@seaotterlodgebc.com
www.seaotterlodgebc.com
3 Gulf Islands
CASA BLANCA
Copper Kettle
Bed & Breakfast
465 Stewart Ave
Nanaimo, BC
V9S 4C7
250-740-3977
1-877-740-3977
~ Traditional, cozy, English-style accommodation.
~ Delectable breakfast, queen beds, shower ensuite.
~ Great paddling possibilities: we are one block from sea front where
you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour. Easy paddle to
Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk, swim or picnic.
~ Close to downtown Nanaimo
~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay.
BED & BREAKFAST ON THE BEACH
Gabriola’s South Coast Paradise
Beachfront • Wildlife • Hot Tub
Gabriola Island, BC
KAYAK RENTALS
250-247-9824
www.members.shaw.ca/casa_blanca
www.copperkettlebc.com
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
43
Marketplace
Marketplace
Associations
Tours and services: BC, Canada
Hooksum Outdoor School
The Sea Kayak Guides Alliance
of BC is a non-profit society
which upholds high standards
for professional sea kayak
guides and operators in BC.
Through on-going professional
development and certification,
the Alliance strives to
ensure safe practices on an
industry-wide basis.
West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training.
Quality skills training. Hesquiaht traditional
knowledge. Certification courses include: Sea-kayaking
Flatwater, Level I & II (Paddle Canada), Advanced
Wilderness First Aid, Lifesaving, BOAT, and ROC(M).
Phone: 250.670.1120
Web: www.hooksumschool.com
Email: info@hooksumschool.com
Associations
2009 Guide Exams
Level 2 Exams
June 5-6, 2009 Victoria
Level 3 Exams
June 19-21, 2009 Tofino
Check the website for Fall 2009
exam dates.
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0ROTECTOURPADDLINGWATERS
www.silvabaykayaking.com
Accommodation
Explore B.C.’s remote coastal
wilderness in comfort and safety!
Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton
Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound
Lake Tahoe Vacation Rentals
www.mothershipadventures.com
Homeaway.com has 1000+ Lake Tahoe vacation
rentals available, from rustic cabins to waterfront
estates. Search homeaway.com now for great deals on
vacation homes in South Lake Tahoe.
Phone: Toll-free 866-771-3010
Web: www.homeaway.com
Email: afaulkner@homeaway.com
New !
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Name: _____________________
Address: ____________________
___________________________
Phone: _____________________
Email: ______________________
C-Tug Canoe & Kayak Trolley
● Stows in your canoe or kayak hatch ● Assembles in
seconds ● Non-corroding construction materials ●
Pneumatic tires ● Weighs only 12 lbs. ● Supports 300
lbs ● Lifetime warranty ● C-Tug – Durable, Practical,
Simple and Affordable!
Phone: 604-781-8042
Web: www.c-tug.ca
Email: ctug@telus.net or try info@c-tug.ca
#
#-9
guide certification
courses
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Transport
New !
SEA KAYAK GUIDES ALLIANCE OF BC
P.O. Box 1005, Station A,
Nanaimo BC, V9R 5Z2
info@skgabc.com
advanced
skills training
taught by dan lewis and bonny glambeck
in clayoquot sound, tofino bc.
www. rainforestkayak. com 877-422-9453
Summer 2009
Kindred spirit
kayak company
Eco Adventures & Education since 1991
Eclectic itineraries for the Gulf Islands & Costa Rica
Kayaking, Sailing, Hiking, Climbing, Surfing...
* School programs * Team Building Retreats * Guides’ Courses
Clothing/Gear Shop & 2 Accommodations on Salt Spring Island
Lessons, tours, memories
No experience necessary. River and ocean tours,
whitewater kayak lessons, elite summer camps,
custom tours, courses and adult getaways. Find your
adventurous side and join us on the water!
Phone: 1-888-KS-KAYAK or 250-701-1888
Web: www.kindredspiritkayak.com
Email: info@kindredspiritkayak.com
1 888 529-2567 • 250 537 2553 • www.islandescapades.com
+
Wavelength Magazine
A DV E N T
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To become a member of the
Alliance, mail this form and a check
to the address below.
44
Natural History, Cultural, Historical Tours
Explore the beautiful Gulf Islands
Paddling Gear
SKGABC Membership
□ Company membership: $100/year
□ Individual membership: $35 / year
□ Associate membership: $25 / year
Mothership AdventureS
Luxury Mothership Sea Kayaking
RE S
Experience IS Necessary! Since 1991, the Kayak
Academy has been providing the best sea kayak
experience you can get. Count on us for all your
paddling gear.
Phone: 206.527.1825 or toll-free 866.306.1825
Web: www.kayakacademy.com
Email: info@kayakacademy.com
K
250-247-8939
Adventure Outfitters
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Kayak Academy (Seattle)
"Paddle Canada" certified kayak courses in White
Rock / Crescent Beach. Flatwater Kayaking, Level 1
Sea Kayaking & Level 2 Sea Kayaking. Kayak Tours in
Southwestern BC.
Phone: 604-318-4019
Web: www.kayakcourses.ca
Email: info@kayakcourses.ca
KAYA
Sea Kayak Guides
Alliance of BC
David Dreves Kayaking
VA BA
IL
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S
Courses and instruction
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Tours and Services: Alaska
Sea Kayak Transport
Gabriola Sea Kayaking offers Unforgettable, Fun
and Affordable Multiday Tours, Groups and Courses
in Kyuquot, Broken Group, Clayoquot, Nootka,
Broughtons and the Gulf Islands. Hope to paddle with
you this season!
Phone: 250-247-0189
Web: www.kayaktoursbc.com
Campbell River, BC water taxi and eco-tours to
Desolation Sound and Discovery Archipelago.
Affordable kayak transport (4 max) to marine parks and
wilderness areas. World-class paddling for all levels.
Phone: 250-218-3457
Web: www.morningstarmarine.com
Email: info@morningstarmarine.com
guide certification courses
advanced skills training
Gabriola Sea Kayaking
Summer 2009
Wavelength Magazine
45
Marketplace
Tours and services: BC, Canada
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&ABULOUSMOTHERSHIPKAYAKING
Blue Vista Resort &
Mayne Island Kayaking
Accommodation, Rentals, Tours and Lessons.
Visit Mayne Island and Gulf Islands National Park.
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Kayak Desolation Sound
Wilderness Sea Kayaking
All-inclusive guided tours: Into the Majestic Mountains
& Desolation Sound. Day tours include Savary Reefs
Explorer and the popular Sea Creatures Explorer.
Kayak rentals available at locations in Lund and
Okeover Inlet.
Phone: Toll free 1-866-617-4444
Web: www.bcseakayak.com
Email: info@bcseakayak.com
Sharing the remote Kyuquot area, Northwest Vancouver
Island since 1972! Base camping luxuries. Professional
guides. Spectacular kayaking options. Diverse wildlife.
Local First Nations’ ownership and cultural interaction.
Phone: 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511
Web: www.westcoastexpeditions.com
Email: info@westcoastexpeditions.com
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Sealegs Kayaking Adventures
Sealegs’ Eco-Adventure Centre offers waterfront access
at Transfer Beach Ladysmith. Guided wilderness tours,
rentals, lessons and sales from our pro shop. Multi-day
adventures, FREE lessons with tours and rentals.
Phone: 250-245-4096 or 1-877-KAYAK BC (529-2522)
Web: www.SealegsKayaking.com
Email: info@SealegsKayaking.com
Batstar Adventure Tours
Professionally guided sea kayaking trips to Vancouver
Island and Canada's Central Coast. All inclusive. We're
thrilled to be the only Vancouver Island-based guided
sea kayaking company on the National Geographic
Best Travel Adventure Companies on Earth list.
Phone: 1-877-449-1230
Web: www.batstar.com
46
Wavelength Magazine
Tours and Services: East Canada
7 days in paradise, weekly Dec–Apr since 1987
Ph/Fax: 250-539-2442
kayak@gulfislands.com www.seakayak.ca
Freewheeling Adventures
Elements Women's Travel
Adventure tours for women. Unique day and multi-day
tours in the coastal waters of BC. Custom itineraries for
women, all designed to 'get into your element'!
Phone: 250-245-9580
Web: www.elementstravel.com
Email: info@elementstravel.com
Bamfield, British Columbia
Accommodations, self-guided kayak rentals and kayak
transport between the Broken Group Islands, Deer
Group Islands and Bamfield. 14 years experience in
planning kayak vacations in Barkley Sound.
Phone: 1-888-728-6200
Web: www.brokenislandadventures.com
Email: broken@island.net
Odyssey Kayaking
BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central
BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip
planning, and Custom Tours. 8625 Shipley Street
(across from the Post Office) Port Hardy.
Phone: 250-902-0565 or toll-free 1-888-792-3366
Email: odyssey@island.net
Web: www.odysseykayaking.com
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Summer 2009
For discriminating paddlers. Nova Scotia, PEI, Cape
Breton, Quebec. Inn-based paddling; yacht-supported
camping; or multisport. Guided small groups, private,
or self-guided adventures, day trips, and quality
rentals. Exquisite picnics. Local guides.
Phone: 1-800-672-0775.
Web: www.freewheeling.ca
Email: adventure@freewheeling.ca
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Tours and Services: Yukon
Kanoe People Ltd.
Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales,
guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals
summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge.
Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years.
Web: www.kanoepeople.com
Email: info@kanoepeople.com
Phone: 867-668-4899
Gwaii Haanas National Park
Reserve and Haida Heritage Site
Réserve de parc national et site du
patrimoine Haïda Gwaii Haanas
explore
canada’s coastal
national parks
explorez
les parcs nationaux
côtiers du canada
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve
Réserve de parc national Pacific Rim
Gulf Islands National Park Reserve
Réserve de parc national des Îles-Gulf
www.pc.g c.ca