Puno Beyond Lake Titicaca
Transcription
Puno Beyond Lake Titicaca
© Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru PUNO Beyond Lake Titicaca PUNO Beyond Lake Titicaca High up in the Peruvian Altiplano at 2.3 miles (3.8 kilometers) above sea level where llamas and alpacas graze on open hillsides and drifting winds across the land seem to whistle the songs of the old eras, you will find the small city of Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca. This body of water is as enchanting as it is functional, serving as the highest navigatable lake in the world and connects Peru with Bolivia. Around, the countryside is pocked with small villages are still alive with centuries-old customs, festivals, dances, music, traditions, faith, and devotion—all of which are best exemplified in the annual Virgin of Candelaria celebration. For the Quechua-speaking local people, as rugged in character as the agrarian landscape around them but always supremely kind in true Andean style, life and death and everything in between has always been centered around the immortal spirit of Lake Titicaca. Enrique Velasco Director To / A Cusco N KEYS / LEYENDA International limit / Límite internacional Departamental limit / Límite departamental Railroad / Vía férrea Paved road / Vía asfaltada Non paved road / Vía sin asfaltar Protected area / Parque Nacional Area urbana / Área urbana Airport / Aeropuerto AZANGARO Pucara Archeological / Sitio arqueológico HUANCANE Tinajani Tourist attraction / Atractivo turístico LAMPA National Reserve / Reserva Nacional del Titicaca MOHO Cambría JULIACA Suasi Island / Isla Suasi Península Capachica Capachica Amantani Ccotos Sillustani National Reserve / Reserva Llachón Nacional del Titicaca Uros Lluquina Taquile Grande PUNO Chucuito Sun Island / Isla del Sol Moon Island / Isla de La Luna ILAVE Huatajata Copacabana JULI YUNGUYO POMATA Anapia LIMA Zepita DESAGUADERO LOCATION/ UBICACIÓN Tiwanaku PUNO When the city dances Every February, the city of Puno erupts in color, music, and debauchery during the Virgin of Candelaria celebration which manifests Catholic traditions with the deepest elements that reflect the Andean worldview. This is one of the largest festivals held annually in South America, third only to Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival and Bolivia’s Carnival of Oruro, and lasts 4 principle days although the parties can endure up to 2 weeks total. All efforts are made to honor the patron saint of Puno, the Virgin of Candelaria herself: more than 200 regional dances, elaborate handmade costumes and vibrant masks that take as many hundreds of Nuevo Soles as hours to create, and over 75,000 local Quechua and Aymara ethnic people are involved during the whole year are involved in the production. In 2014, Puno’s Virgin of Candelaria festival was named by UNESCO an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. From the moment you step into Puno’s streets during the Candelaria, you will hear drums, trumpets, and bells roaring in harmony with the laughter and cries of street partiers. Dancers exhibiting their skills, sometimes up to 1,000 in number and covering over 3 kilometers at a time, typically do so in devotion to their beloved saint, especially if they are fulfilling a promise or asking for a blessing. Even though visitors from around the world are wholly welcomed to this carnival, it retains every bit of its unspoilt soul. © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru Juli & Pomata Old but hardly forgotten Juli, found on the banks of Lake Titicaca, is the capital of the rural Chucuito province and its inhabitants today are mainly of Aymaran descent and still speak their native language. Because of the 4 architecturally significant churches in this small village, mainly dating to the Spanish colonial eras, Juli is nicknamed “The Little Rome of the Americas.” In particular, the white granite stones of the Temple of San Pedro Martir shine under the bright Andean sun, and the intricate murals within the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption are proud works of renowned mestizo artists Bitti and de la Puente from the late 1500s. If you find yourself in Juli on a market day, you will be treated to a fantastically authentic regional experience. Nearby Pomata is equally impressive in a different way, nicknamed “The Philosophical Balcony of the Altiplano.” Because of its strategically high location, the ancient people were able to fight hard to retain their lands, even against the mighty Inca Empire. We will make sure to stop by the Temple of Santiago Apostle to see its especially impressive façade and stone dome. After your visits, enjoy a fine picnic prepared with both regional staples and delicacies overlooking the grand landscapes and constructions of this remote area. © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru LLACHON A town to get lost in Despite its high location at 3,820 meters above sea level on the Peninsula of Capachica, the small village of Llachon offers a pleasant temperature year round and a tranquil corner of Lake Titicaca. Get lost in this lovely town’s natural streets and perhaps catch a glance of a local woman working her loom with bright threads and yarns to create woven pieces so reflective of Andean motifs and its own community heritage. For those so inclined to dive deeper into the indigenous Quechua culture, homestays are best arranged in Llachon where the residents are happy to share their ways with the curious. Learn to maneuver classic recipes in a typical family kitchen nestled under a totora reed roof and see what it is like to wake up to a flush sunrise over Lake Titicaca. Back outside, you will that the lack of wind and waves also makes Llachon an ideal spot in the region to indulge in kayaking excursions on the lake, as well as boat rides to Amantani and Taquile islands and beyond to Puno. © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru LAMPA The pink city The Pink City inspires with its tinted buildings. As you look around this compact Altiplano town, see how architectural heritage blends with the residents’ deep faith. In the Municipal Palace as well as the Municipal Library, you will find two of the three only replicas of Michelangelo’s Pietà statue that have been authorized by the Vatican. These two renditions of La Piedad, as they are called in Lampa, are made of different materials: one is of plaster and the other from a mold. They are so accurate in adaptation that when a madman damaged the original piece in Italy, restorers visited this Peruvian village to take photographs and measurements before making repairs. As well, Lampa boasts typical homes which reflect the needs and accommodations fit for the mining and agricultural families of the area. Casona Frisancho is an exquisite example of these such constructions, with over 300 years of history first owned by the Spaniard Don Fermín de la Vara y Pancorbo. The large rooms which allow in plenty of sunlight keep these signature homes warm and original furniture pieces allow you to reimagine the beginnings of Lampa’s modern history. © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru TINAJANI Off-the-beaten track To visit Tinajani is to flirt with the Andean range in one of the least visited destinations in Peru. On most days, the landscape is dry but rich, full of high altitude grasses and fields as well as alpacas, sheep, camelids, and cows grazing lazily. dance of Peruvian feathergrass plants reach astounding sizes here, up to 14 meters (45 ft) at a time, and are known to live up to 100 years. Open grassland never looked so impressive as here where it is suggested that the world stretches forever in all directions. Not far away, the Tinajani canyon and The Puyas de Raymond is perhaps the its rock forest intimidates with its ancient most popular draw to this off-the-beaten- formations that loom overhead, creating track corner of the country. The abunimposing cliffs and visuals that plunge into the unforgiving ground. Bring out the silly side in you and search for the faces and figures in these anthropomorphic stone figures while also learning about the local legends that have originated in this space. And if you are lucky, you might even see some of the tombs from long-ago cultures that once called the high plains their home. © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru AMANTICA LODGE A luxurious private retreat On the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca is the unforgettable Amantaní Island. Its rustic charm of the past centuries resonates into today where only 800 families live and no cars rumble down the streets, giving way to a peace and quiet unlike any other. Amantica Lodge is the premier accommodation on the is- land and offers only 2 exclusive suites (one with matrimonial bed, the other with two twin beds), crisp and tasteful furnishings, and comfortable shared services. Panoramic windows allow bountiful amounts of light into each room and of course present movie-like scenes that overlook the shimmering cerulean lake and snowcapped Andes far beyond. A number of participatory excursions are available during your stay at Amantica Lodge such as trout fishing, private cooking courses to learn how to make healthy and locally inspired meals, taking part in medicinal and healing ceremonies, visits to a community school, typical music and instrumental instruction, hikes around nearby shore villages, kayaking, and more. At night, be sure to take a moment to enjoy your private outdoor patio space where a million and one stars quietly twinkle above you in this most remote and astounding of destinations. © Erika Navarro / COLTUR Peru SUGGESTED itinerary Day 1: ARRIVAL IN PUNO Greet and transfer to the hotel Overnight in Puno Day 2: PUNO Breakfast Morning excursion to Pomata and Juli Box lunch on route Return to Puno Puno city tour including a visit to workshops that produce costumes and masks for La Virgen de la Candelaria festivity Overnight in Puno Day 3: PUNO Breakfast Full day visit to Llachon Private boat transfer to Amantica lodge Overnight in Amantani Day 4: PUNO Breakfast Activities in Amantani Island: - Trekking to Pachatata - Coca leaves reading by a shaman - Interactive cooking classes Return to Llachon on a private boat Box lunch on route Private road transfer to Lampa city Overnight in Lampa at Casona Frisancho Day 5: DEPARTURE Breakfast Morning visit to Lampa Box lunch on route Excursion to Tinajani canyon Transfer to Juliaca airport Overnight in Lima Coltur Peru Av.Reducto 1255, Miraflores, Lima-Peru P. +(51.1) 615.5555 F. +(51.1) 446.8073 peru@colturperu.com www.colturperu.com