WE WERE GREEN BEFORE GREEN WAS KEEN!

WE
WERE
GREEN
BEFORE
GREEN
WAS
KEEN !
Product Information
Seacast® is a composite core material.
It must be sandwiched in between
fiberglass or aluminum. For aluminum
boats we offer a primer.
Seacast® comes in a bucket with
premix resin, BPO catalyst, and
premeasured reinforcement. The safest
way to catalyze Seacast® is to use BPO
as it will not cause blindness (plus
MEKP is considered Haz-Mat and
BPO is not).
Disclaimer on Limitation of Liability
Since the Seller exercises no control over Buyer’s
application or use of the product manufactured by
Seller, and since material used with the product
may vary, it is understood that:
There are no warranties, expressed or implied,
including any warranty of merchantability or
fitness for any particular purpose.
While all data presented in seller’s technical publication is based on the best information available
to Seller and believed correct, such data is not
construed as a warranty that the products will
If you don’t use your Seacast® right
away, do not open the bucket and be
sure to store it in a cool place. There is
a guaranteed shelf life of 6 months if
stored at a temperature of 77ºF or
lower.
All boats are made of either Polyester
or Vinylester resins Seacast® is formulated to match these components.
EPOXY WILL NOT BOND!
DON’T USE EPOXY OR
SILICONE!
conform to such specifications. Such technical
publications are subject to change without notice.
The liability of Seller shall not exceed the
purchase price of the products and Buyer shall
not be entitled to nor Seller be liable for any
consequential, incidental, indirect or special
damages in such manner from the furnishing of
the product or for any damages of any kind
arising from the use of this product.
It is the Buyer’s responsibility to test product
before use.
1
Transom Preparation
The first step is to remove the old
rotted wood (you can use a chain saw).
On some boats it is possible to remove
the wood from the top (Refer to repair
Technique 1).
Transom Wood Removal
Illustration
A. Typical transom.
Blue areas: fiberglass skin
Brownish Red area: plywood core
B. Using 1.5” diameter wood bit,
and bit extension, drill holes
through plywood core material from
top of transom to within a couple
inches of transom bottom.
C. Carefully use chainsaw to cut slot
that join holes. Start cut at one end
and work towards other end.
D. Continue joining holes with cut.
E. Repeat procedure on other side.
F. Use wood chisels to remove
remaining wood.
2
Make sure all the prep work has
been completed. This means ALL
rotted and dry wood from your
transom and/or stringers has been
removed and the fiberglass is clean and
dry. We recommend wiping down with
acetone or alcohol to clean any oil or
other foreign substances from the
fiberglass. Small amounts of wood
with resin are okay as long as they are
adhered well, clean and dry.
Patch holes or cracks
with fiberglass mat
and woven fiberglass
Repair any existing cracks or holes
in inner and outer skin using fiberglass
mat and woven fiberglass, and polyester
resin. Do not use epoxy resin as the
wax will prevent a good bond of
Seacast™ with any existing fiberglass.
Catalyst BPO Guide
5 gal Seacast®
1 gal Seacast®
2 gal Seacast®
1/2 gal Seacast®
use 2 tubes of 2.75 oz (156g)
plus 1 tube of 1 oz (28.35g) of BPO
use 1 tube of 2.75 oz (156g)
plus 1 tube of 1 oz (28.35g) of BPO
use 2 tubes of 1 oz (28.35g) of BPO
use 1 tube of 1 oz (28.35g) of BPO
Note:
Higher ambient temperatures will require
slightly less catalyst. If you are not sure
how much catalyst to use, call us toll-free
at (877) 716-4820.
3
Mixing and Pouring Instructions
Note: These instructions also apply to selfleveling
1. Using a heavy duty mixing blade,
attached to a standard 1/2” drill,
mix the product until it has an even
consistency. When using any chemical,
follow all health safety procedures including
notes about flammability.
2. Next, using a power mixer add
the correct amount of tinted
catalyst (see previous page) and mix
for 3 minutes or until the color is
uniform throughout. Make sure the
catalyst is completely mixed. Don’t just
mix the center. You have to mix along
the walls of the bucket as well. Have
someone else add the catalyst after you
have started the mixer. This will insure
that the catalyst is completely blended.
Failure to mix properly will cause the
product to not harden properly or
overheat.
Mixing Blades
Use a mixing device with two blades,
at least 4” in diameter (check at your
local hardware store). You must
blend the catalyst throughout the
entire resin mixture before adding
glass reinforcements. Be sure to mix
the entire bucket by running the
mixer along the sides and the center
of the bucket to ensure the catalyst
has
been
evenly
distributed
throughout the resin mixture.
4
3. Then gradually add the fibers
until the consistency is that of lumpy
oatmeal. Adding at least 80% of the
fiber will produce a strong and reliable
transom/stringer. In cases of packing a
cavity or troweling you may want to add
more fibers. Mix well for another 3
minutes. For areas that are NOT high
stress points, such as floors and decks,
use the self-leveling blend.
4. Pour the Seacast™ blend into the
transom/stringers and tap lightly
on the outside skins with a rubber
mallet to release air pockets.
Seacast™ will set in approximately 2545 minutes at 77ºF from start of
mixing and reach a maximum temperature of 140-190ºF in 1-2 hours. It will
take longer if the outside temperature
is below 70°F, in which case try using a
heat lamp to compensate for the lower
ambient temperature.
Multiple Bucket Mixing and Pouring
Depending on the size of your
transom, you may need more than one
5 gallon pail. Mix one bucket, pour and
wait at least 45 minutes (until the peak
of the exothermic reaction) before
mixing and pouring the next bucket.
Repeat this process as necessary. If the
temperature is above 75ºF, wait until
the poured Seacast® is cool enough to
touch before pouring. If you are
using partial buckets, carefully and
proportionally measure the amount of
catalyst for the amount of mix you will
be using.
Over catalyzing will cause cracking and
undercatalyzing will cause the product
to be flexible. Be sure to tap the
outer skins with a rubber mallet to
release any trapped air pockets.
Don’t pour Seacast® when the outside
temperature is above 90 degrees. If the
temperature is under 65 degrees
remember you can always use a heat
lamp to bring up the temperature to 75
degrees.
Safety Considerations
• Always wear safety glasses/
goggles, gloves and a chemical
resistant apron/coat when working
with Seacast®.
• Long sleeves and pants guard against
fiberglass. Skin contact with fiberglass will
cause severe itching - wash exposed skin with
soap and water.
• Get medical attention if a severe
irritation develops.
• Remove contaminated clothing and
shoes, and thoroughly clean before
reuse.
• If Seacast® comes in contact with
eyes IMMEDIATELY flush with
water for 15 minutes, then seek
prompt medical attention.
• DO NOT wear contact lenses while
working with this material.
• Make sure there is ample ventilation
while working with Seacast®! If an
irritation develops get fresh air
IMMEDIATELY!
• DO NOT EAT Seacast®! If ingested
DO NOT induce vomiting and seek
medical attention immediately!
• DO NOT SMOKE while using
Seacast®! Keep all sources of ignition
at safe distances.
• All catalysts can be dangerous follow all safety regulations and
standards for oxidizers.
Other considerations:
• Use ONLY polyester resins
• DO NOT use silicone or epoxy.
5
Repair Technique 1
Most outboard and some inboard boats
are usually accessible from the top:
1. Cut the top open and chip out the
rotted wood.
2. Screw a piece of plywood outside
and inside the transom to maintain the
shape. Leave excess plywood at the top
to act as a backstop for pouring.
3. Wax, lockout, and clamp the sides of
the motor well to avoid spillage from
the motor well.
4. Now you are ready to pour!
Repair Technique 2
Interior skin access:
6
1. Cut and remove inside face of
transom, starting 2” from edges.
2. Remove old transom wood/filler
material.
3. Abraid 2” lip to increase adhesion.
4. Make false transom 1” smaller than
original shape out of 1/2”-3/4”
interior plywood. Lay flat with aft
surface facing up. Wax and apply mold
release to aft surface and edges - we
recommend a PVA based mold release
paste.
5. Cut laminate 2” oversized and apply
to false transom.
6. Set false transom in place and bond
new glass to old ground lip and sides.
7. Fill cavity with Seacast® and allow to
cure.
8. Remove plywood false transom.
Repair Technique 2
Step 1
Step 2
Step 4 and 5
2”
Transom Cut
Line
2”
Top View-Patch
2”
Top View-Cut
New
Laminate
1”
Temporary
False Transom
Old Wood
Seacast®
7
Repair Technique 3
If there is no inner skin, you must
create one. Remove wood and position
a false transom (similar to Repair
Technique 2). Refer to picture.
Repair Technique 4
Exterior skin repair:
1. Cut and remove outside face of
transom, starting 3” from edges (see
Transom cut line)
2. Remove old transom wood/filler
material.
3. Grind/bevel both sides of cut line,
eight times the glass thickness.
4. Screw a temporary block to hold a
cutout piece in place and laminate the
two pieces back together through top
of transom.
5. Fill the cavity with Seacast® and
allow to cure.
6. Remove temporary block and fill
3”
Step 3
8
Top View-Cut
joint with mat and resin (see Top ViewPatch).
7. Grind/bevel transom top.
8. Laminate transom cap.
Transom Cut Line
3”
Temporary
Block
New Laminate
Inside View Laminate
Seacast®
Top View-Patch
Capping Your Transom
Step 1: Tuck fiberglass in while
Seacast® is still wet.
Step 2: Add overlay after Seacast® is
fully cured.
Step 1
It is important to tuck in and overlay
glass at the main stress points. If the
glass is too dry it may be necessary to
add some resin to wet out the laminate.
Fiberglass
Seacast®
Reinforcing Main Stress Points
Main Stress
Point
Step 2
Fiberglass
It is critical to
extend glass
reinforcement at
least 2” past
motor well.
Recommended Inboard/Outboard
(I/O) Installation
For the I/O transom, fashion an insert
of urethane foam or plywood; DO
NOT use styrofoam. If the plywood is
used, cover with tape to prevent
1 1/2”
transom material from adhering. After
Seacast® is cured, remove the plug.
Make sure to use spacers to maintain
proper thickness.
HT.
WIDTH
Spacers shown
2”
9
Sterndrive Hole Repair
In the case you decide to replace the
sterndrive and reduce through hole
size, use following method. Note, you
can use this method even if you don’t
intend to replace whole transom, if the
wood is in excellent condition; with
no sign of rot whatsoever.
1. Remove 2” of transom wood from
around the original out drive cutout.
2. Bevel inside edge of remaining
wood.
3. Wax and apply mold release to a
piece of plywood, then screw to
outside of transom, covering hole.
4. Add new laminate and back fill with
Seacast™, allow to cure.
5. Grind smooth Seacast® and add
final laminate.
6. Cut new out-drive hole.
Step 1 and 2
10
Stringer Repair Technique 1
The stringer may be completely rotted
to the point that the wood can be
removed from the top, leaving the
inner and outer skin (fiberglass shells)
intact.
Cut top off and remove wood
Note: If no fiberglass sides remain,
follow Technique 2.
1. Cut the top open and chip out of the
wood.
2. Fill with Seacast® pourable mix.
3. Cap with 1-1/2 oz. matte together
with 18 or 24 oz woven roving.
Stringer Repair Technique 2
If there aren’t any fiberglass sides
remaining, a form/mold can be used to
make L-shapes for new stringers and
then fill with Seacast®.
1. Remove all existing fiberglass from
stringer to be repaired.
2. Make false stringer from either foam
or wood. Apply mold release or use
packing tape.
Cap with 1-1/2 oz mat and
24 oz woven roving
3. Lay 1-1/2 oz matte and 18 or 24 oz
woven roving on the outside of the
form to create a cavity for the new
stringer.
4. After fiberglass cures, remove the
form/wood and remaining tape.
5. Fill cavity with Seacast®and cap with
mat and woven roving.
Place 2”x4” wooden forms
in same location of old stringers
11
Aluminum Boats
Seacast® can also be used in aluminum
boats to replace plywood. The preparation is slightly different for
aluminum.
1. Remove the wood as instructed for
fiberglass boats.
2. Remove all oil and surface contamination from aluminum. Make sure the
surface is clean and dry.
3. Lightly sand the aluminum surface(s)
that will be bonding with Seacast™.
Then clean and dry the surface once
again.
4. Apply a thin layer of Bonding Primer
by roller, spray, brush or flow coat
method (12 ounces will cover approximately 4,800 square inches when
sprayed and 3,600 square inches when
painted).
5. Mix and pour Seacast® when the
primer is residue free to the touch
(approximately 6 to 8 hours).
6. Full cure may take one to two days.
We advise waiting five days before
remounting equipment.
The pouring process for the self
leveling blend is the same as the
transom blend except for the reinforced
fibers. The preparation work is
relatively the same, you will mix brown
reinforcements for the self leveling
blend. Be sure to follow the mixing
instructions listed earlier in this publication.
Depending on the strength required, lay
down one or two layers of 1-1/2 oz
mat. For high strength (example:
installing a pedestal chair), install one
layer of 24 oz woven roving between
layers of mat. Pour the material to the
desired thickness and add the same
amount of glass on the top. After
curing, you might need some polyester
resin to wet out the glass.
Self-leveling Seacast® Blend Floors and Decks
Before pouring, establish the area
which you intend to pour. Make a
temporary mold from masonite or
aluminum and use either wood strips or
light aluminum angle (available at your
local hardware store). Attach to the flat
surface with double coated foam tape
to establish the shape and thickness of
your part. Make sure to level your mold
before pouring.
12
Frequently Asked Questions
NEVER use Epoxy or Silicone
with Seacast®!
Do I have to remove all of the
wood?
Absolutely! Ninety-nine percent of
wood rot is caused by fungus which
does not stop when incapsulated and
you will be doing this repair again
with more difficulty. Also Seacast® is
almost three times stronger than the
wood being replaced, which will create a shear point along the joint
where the wood and Seacast® meet.
What about the wood splinters
that cling to the skins, how do I
remove them?
Seacast® is formulated to bond to the
fiberglass. It will bond to splinters of
preexisting wood that may remain,
but use isopropal alcohol to remove
all moisture and any oily residue.
Do I have to have a cap on my
transom when I am using Seacast®?
Absolutely. Seacast® is a core material
and must be sandwiched in inner and
outer skin.
Can I drill through it?
Yes, in fact, Seacast® is self-tapping
and will make a perfect thread-path.
Can I put metal reinforcements
inside before I pour Seacast™ for
added strength?
No. With Seacast®’s strength, you will
not need reinforcement. Any type of
steel or aluminum will expand and
contract with temperature changes
and affect the integrity of the transom.
Can I pour more Seacast® if I
run out and need to reorder?
Yes. The additional pours will bond
as if done in one pour.
Can I use the West System with
Seacast®?
No. Seacast™ is not compatible with
oily substances or epoxy. NEVER
use Epoxy or Silicone with
Seacast®!
Do I have to fix cracks and
holes before I pour Seacast™?
Yes. The Seacast® will leak through
any openings in your fiberglass. You
can use criss-crossed pieces of duct
tape to cover small holes.
I just received my Seacast® order
and it looks like the bucket is only
half or three quarters full. Also
there is foam floating on top
when I opened the bucket. Is
something wrong?
Seacast® separates during shipping.
This is normal. First stir the contents
of the bucket you will soon see a
consistant, even blend. When you
add the catalyst and finally the
ground fiber, you will have a full five
gallon bucket (see mixing instructions Pages 4 and 5).
13
Testimonials
Dear Mr. Unger:
I just thought I would let you know
how my transom came out. It turned
out wonderfully! Just as you said,
removing the rotted wood would be
the hardest part, and it definitely was
the longest and most tiring part of the
the procedure. But, two weeks ago a
friend and I poured the Seacast, mixed
per your instructions, and it all went
like clockwork.
I tried it out 2 days later on a short
fishing trip, then went on vacation to
Broken Bow Lake in Oklahoma. We
fished 3 days in terrible weather
without a problem. Then as I was
taking the boat out the last time, my
tilt and trim went out. I had to trailer
the boat home with only a makeshift
transom saver. The transom suffered
no damage after a 200 mile trip with
little support other than the transom
itself supporting the motor.
Thanks so much for your great
product and all the good phone
advice. Everything you told me
worked exactly as you said it would.
Now I am telling everyone about
Seacast!
Thanks for everything.
Sam Wakefield
Sherwood, Arkansas
I would publicly like to thank Mr.
WOLFGANG UNGER for his
extreme customer service and his
wonderful product, SEACAST. I have
been around boats all my life from the
Keys to St. Petersburg, FL. My family
once owned and operated Hernando
Beach Marina in Hernando County for
25 years and I have seen it all or at
least I thought.
14
Last week I decided to take my 1984
Stratos 370 v bass rig out for a ride
after I had done extensive work to the
engine, a highly modified Mercury 150
v-6.(approx. 250 HP). As usual the
motor ran perfectly, and then we went
back to the dock and picked up
another passenger. Having just
received this boat from a friend as a
gift, I was a little leery of venturing far
from shore (and yes, the transom did
have a solid sound!) It was a good
thing, as soon as I hammered it in the
Hernando beach channel to run out, I
heard a sickening LOUD pop. I knew
in my gut what it was so I backed off
and limped it onto a sand bar much to
the dismay and curses of my unaware
passengers, figuring if I sank, I would
rather be in 6 inches of water than 8
feet in the channel. We made it in with
a lighting fast run for the truck at the
boat ramp with no time to spare (no
atheists here!!) :) PHEW!! That was
close!!!
My five year old son was waiting for
his turn at the dock and was very
upset. I made up my mind I was going
to fix it no matter what it took. I had
the tools, all the wood and fiberglass
but WHAT A PAIN IT IS!! I was
searching the internet and found this
product last Friday at noon. I called
Seacast and got Mr. Unger at 3 pm. I
said, “I live about 3 hours southwest
of you, in a little town called Dade
City”. He said “no problem”, he gave
me his HOME PHONE number,
directions, then his CELL PHONE
number and said, “I’ll meet you in
three hours, call me if you get lost”. I
showed up about 7:30 pm FRIDAY
NIGHT at the plant and he pulled in
right after me.
He took me inside the building, gave
me a guided tour (A FLORIDA
CRACKERS BOAT PARADISE!!) of
everything, no hurry, treated me like
family. Gave me the Seacast, wrote me
a receipt, we talked for awhile, (you
know when you are in the presence of
true genius, you listen!), taught me
more tips and tricks in fifteen minutes
about fiberglass composites than I ever
knew existed and expressed his
concern for our environment. THIS
PRODUCT HELPS THE
ENVIRONMENT! No wood, and it
uses recycled fiberglass from old boats
and discarded fiberglass that would
otherwise pollute our environment.
(He invented the process and the
machine that separates the old glass
for reuse). All I can say is that I was so
impressed, I will probably be his best
salesperson. ALL OF MY
CUSTOMERS TRANSOMS WILL
USE THIS PRODUCT.
I poured mine on Saturday evening,
got up Sunday and finished it off,
bolted motor and jack plate back
on,TOO EASY, (they make the best
damn jack plate I’ve ever seen also
YOU FLATS GUYS AND GALS
TAKE NOTE) and just to see, I hit
the transom with a METAL hammer.
It went “SLAP”. ROCK HARD
WITH NO DAMAGE!!!!
MY BUDDY WEIGHS 285 AND HE
STOOD ON THE CAVITATION
PLATE AND JUMPED UP AND
DOWN ON IT IN UTTER
DISBELIEF - he’s a fiberglass picasso.
NOW HE WANTS IT FOR HIS
BOAT!!! PHEW, I’ll be busy forever!!
THANK YOU SEACAST AND
THANK YOU, MR UNGER. Anyone
who needs help can email me and I
will help you with the Seacast installation.
Yesterday was test day for my newly
formed transom made from Seacast. I
must say that at first I was little
skeptical about the product, but my
boat was not worth spending $2000.00
to have someone replace my transom.
I decided to try Seacast and I’m glad
that I did. My transom is as strong if
not stronger than when the boat was
new 24 years ago.
Seacast was easy to mix and poured
just the way the directions said. The
hardest part was getting the old wood
out. While this was hard it was not
impossible. A good drill, and a few
paddle drill bits later and the wood
was removed. I also made a heavy duty
chisel with a 2” blade and 2’ handle to
scrape the remaining wood off after
drilling and vacuuming the core wood
out. I would recommend this product
and this company to anyone. I called a
few times with questions and the lady
I talked with was very friendly and
helpful.
Thanks,
Micah Floyd
The Woodlands, Texas
Check out the Seacast Website for
more testimonials:
transomrepair.com
davidredhawk
15
Seacast® Calculation
Step 1. Fill in the
blanks below:
A_____"
B_____"
C_____"
D_____"
E_____"
F_____”
Step 2. Multiply A (width) times C (side wall
height) times F (thickness):
______x______x____=_______ci
Step 3. Multiply D (or 1/2 A), times E (or slope
hgt.), times F( thickness):
______x______x____=________ci
Add Step 2 and Step 3 cubic inches:
_________ci
Note: One 5-gallon Kit will yield 1,000 cubic
inches (or 200ci per 1 gallon) of Seacast.
16
To download an MSExcel calculator go to:
transomrepair.com
Notes
17
SEACAST
plywood!
has almost triple the strength of marine
SEACAST is made with 35% recycled fiberglass
reinforcement...Go Green, Seacast!
SEACAST is waterproof. It does not absorb water, so it
does not rot!
SEACAST floats!
SEACAST maintains resiliency at freezing temperatures
and does not creep at elevated temperatures!
SEACAST has excellent impact resistance!
SEACAST is drill and tappable!
SEACAST is very affordable, so everyone can repair a
rotted transom!
View product test results on our website at
transomrepair.com
Click Instructions then Miscellaneous
Visit these web sites & See what else we do:
GoGreenFRP.com | CompositeWorld.com
SeawolfIndustries.com | ThermoFormEquip.com
Address
Toll Free
Office
Fax
After Hours & 24/7
website
V4.1.2
333 Marion Avenue, Suite 15
Edgewater, Florida 32132
877-716-4820
386-428-4722
386-428-8236
info@transomrepair.com
transomrepair.com
Mar2011