This Month`s Focus: What`s New: New Equipment, Tools
Transcription
This Month`s Focus: What`s New: New Equipment, Tools
Times Horological TM ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY July 2012 Photo: Removing Hands AMERICAN WATCHMAKERSCLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE This Month’s Focus: What’s New: New Equipment, Tools & Techniques Advanced 21 Brand-Specific Courses Swiss Repeater Q & A Preparing & Using a Burnisher, Part 3 Archie Perkins: An Inspiration Jules Borel & Co. YOUR SOURCE for Horological Equipment New! New! New! New! Jules Borel & Co. 1110 Grand Boulevard Kansas City, Missouri 64106 Phone 800-776-6858 Fax 800-776-6862 julesborel.com in this issue awci news classifieds VOLUME 36, NUMBER 7, July 2012 features Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI) 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) or 513-367-9800 Fax 513-367-1414 awci@awci.com • www.awci.com Amy S. Dunn Managing Editor & Advertising Manager Ext. 307 adunn@awci.com James E. Lubic, CMW21 Executive Director/ Education & Technical Director Ext. 310 jlubic@awci.com Thomas J. Pack, CPA Operations Director Ext. 311 tpack@awci.com Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 Watchmaking Instructor/ Certification Coordinator Ext. 309 tschomaker@awci.com Daniela Ott Education & Certification Administrator Ext. 303 dott@awci.com Jennifer Bilodeau Assistant Editor/ Marketing Coordinator Ext. 302 jbilodeau@awci.com Elizabeth Janszen Membership Coordinator Ext. 301 ejanszen@awci.com Horological Times Advisory Committee Jordan Ficklin, CW21 : Chairman Ron Iverson, CMC Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21 David Fahrenholz Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW Robert D. Porter, CMW Ron Landberg, CW21 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ©2012 by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $149.00 per year ($8.50 per copy). Members subscription is $70.00 which is included with annual dues of $149.00. Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 2012 Convention and Education Symposium, Denver Early Bird Discount Extended! pg. 4 From the Workshop Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 pg. 8 What’s New New Equipment, Tools, Techniques and Convention Exhibitor Previews Pg. 10 What’s New at BASELWORLD pg. 24 President’s Message Doug Thompson, CW21 pg. 2 Executive Director’s Message James E. Lubic, CMW21 pg. 3 Buy, Sell, Trade, and Employment Opportunities pg. 46 Advertiser’s Index pg. 49 Industry Advisory Board Members pg. 49 Affiliate Chapter News pg. 38 AWCI Event at JCK Show in Las Vegas pg. 40 & technical education certification discussions Preparing and Using a Burnisher, Part 3 Laurie Penman pg. 26 How to Make a Winding Pinion and Clutch, Part 2 Robert Porter, CMC pg. 30 AWCI Course and Exam Schedule pg. 42 Cover Photo: Dial protection before carefully removing watch hands in an Advanced 21 Series course. Photo courtesy of Herman Mayer. Making Flycutters, Part 2 John B. Shadle, CMC pg. 32 Archie Perkins: An Inspiration to Modern Horologists Ron Landberg, CW21 pg. 36 Questions & Answers David Christianson, CMW21, FAWI pg. 43 Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted materials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The appearance, reference, or advertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers or employees. a message from the president DOUG THOMPSON, CW21 “I just want to thank everyone who made this day necessary.” Yogi Berra I would like to address some of the concerns raised by AWCI members over the past few months. Board of Directors’ E-Mail While individual director e-mail addresses are posted in the HT, there are two e-mail addresses (awciboard@yahoogroups.com and awciboard@awci. com) that can be used to contact the entire Board of Directors of AWCI at one time. One of these addresses forwards a copy to an archive for future reference. We have become aware of an intermittent communication problem with this system and thus far, this problem remains unsolved. If too much time has passed after attempting to contact any specific Board member or the entire Board, please contact the AWCI office. We are working to correct the problem. We apologize for any inconvenience. Watch Repair Brokers Any watch repair broker, retailer or consumer could use the AWCI Referral Directory to locate a member’s contact information without AWCI’s knowledge, simply by keying in search criteria and examining the results. If a broker were to take advantage of our Referral Directory, it would be the responsibility of that supportive member to negotiate the value of sharing the revenue generated from the repair with the Broker. This would be similar to a jeweler working with a trade shop; the Broker or the jeweler would typically be responsible for creating demand and dealing with the consumer, allowing the member to focus upon their expertise—service. It is just another way to market your services and is not for everyone. The risks are different, and should be investigated. AWCI as a 501(c)6 Non-Profit IRS 501(c)6 organizations are designed to serve their members. Membership services may include: conferences award programs research projects seminars scholarship programs community outreach trade shows fellowship programs public relations trade journals maintenance of a library influence legislation newsletters website political action groups educational books certification programs social activities It costs more than $1 million dollars a year to run AWCI for the benefit of our members. In fact, membership dues only cover a small fraction of these costs. Therefore, AWCI attempts to generate profits wherever possible from offering these services. Non-profit organizations like AWCI also enter into affinity agreements that they hope will benefit members and also generate additional revenue for the organization. These agreements are designed to offer products and services used by members, often at a discount. *Note: The NFL is also a 501(c) 6 non-profit organization. AWCI Logo Any AWCI member, at any level, if in good standing, may display the AWCI logo at their business or on their website. When AWCI becomes aware of any website displaying the AWCI logo without authorization, AWCI’s lawyer generates a cease and desist notification. That’s all for this month—more to come in the August issue. Let’s move forward together! Board of Directors Officers Directors Doug Thompson, CW21: President dthompson@awci.com Gene Bertram, CC gbertram@awci.com Ron Landberg, CW21: Vice President rlandberg@awci.com Manuel Yazijian myazijian@awci.com Henry Kessler: Treasurer hkessler@awci.com David Douglas, CW21: Secretary ddouglas@awci.com Joseph Schrader, CMW21 jschrader@awci.com Fred White, CMW21 fwhite@awci.com Wes Grau, CMW21 Affiliate Chapter Director wgrau@awci.com Jason Ziegenbein, CW21 REC Director jzeigenbein@awci.com Terry Kurdzionak IAB Director tkurdzionak@awci.com Mark Butterworth mbutterworth@awci.com 2 Horological Times July 2012 a message from the executive director T he final results for the 2012 AWCI Board of Directors Election have been counted and certified by the auditing firm of Rudler Professional Service Corporation. Two of the candidates have been re-elected and one is a newcomer to the AWCI Board of Directors. A director’s term is for a three years. We welcome: • Mark Butterworth • Jordan Ficklin, CW21 • Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 Congratulations to the three of you! I look forward to working with you for the next three years. I would like to thank everyone that were willing to be candidates and were not elected this year. Thanks goes out to each of you for volunteering to serve AWCI as an elected official. I hope you will volunteer to run again in the future. On to other topics: The Trade Fair season for AWCI is over and it was a very busy time. There were plenty of people at both the InStore Show in Chicago and the JCK Show in Las Vegas. I would like to thank the officials at both of these shows for sponsoring the booth space for AWCI. This year, at the Smart Jewelry Show by Instore and InDesign Magazines in Chicago, I had the pleasure of working with AWCI members Wes Grau and his wife Beth on Saturday, and Dale Paxson on Sunday. All live in the Chicago area. They all did a great job representing AWCI, and I would like to thank them one more time. by james E. Lubic, cmw21 express my appreciation for all the volunteers, sponsors and employees who did so much to make this year’s JCK show such a success. Additional volunteers would be Norm Basch, CW21, from Ohio, Bobby Ingram, CW21, from Alabama, Shanon Recksiek from Utah, and Melissa Schomaker, Ohio. Sponsors who not only made the recording of the videos possible, but also played a big role by being a part of our booth are: • Gary Borel, Jena Borel and Kyle Woolworth of Jules Borel and Co. • Henry Kessler of Sy Kessler Sales • Robert Miller and Christopher Miller of RepairTracker 2000 And finally, every employee in the AWCI office provided significant contributions…Instructor, Tom Schomaker CMW21, and Daniela Ott, our Education Administrator, both traveled to the JCK Show and worked on site. Additionally, Amy Dunn, Jennifer Bilodeau, Elizabeth Janszen and Tom Pack all played a behind-the-scenes role in making this year’s trade show season a success for AWCI and its members. Looking to the future, it’s AWCI’s goal to be a regular presenter at both the Smart Show and the JCK Show. We hope to see you at these events next year! awci new members Welcome to these new or reinstated members! Colorado Dan Engle Oregon Stephen Tobusch Florida Micahel Ahsani Pennsylvania Brandon Williams The JCK Show in Las Vegas was totally different this year for AWCI than in previous years. This year, JCK provided us with a wealth of real estate, and a lot of technical support. Please see the article on Page 40, by AWCI member Aaron Recksiek, CW21, and JCK booth volunteer. Thanks goes to Aaron for taking the time to volunteer and to write such an informative article. Illinois Ramiro DeRueda, Jr. Louisiana Nick Cascio Michigan Timothy Iseri Texas Susan Eisen Russell Tilghman Alex Martinovic Ra Sao Nikolaus Libby Buckley H. Gooding New York Richard Basso Washington Kristen Triesch Volunteers can’t be thanked enough for the role they play within AWCI. So, not to be redundant to the kudos given by Aaron in his article, I would also like to Oklahoma Jill Sterling David Ho Horological Times July 2012 3 2012 Convention & Educational Symposium Denver AWCI REGISTRATION DISCOUNT EXTENDED TO 7/20/12! Hyatt Regency Denver Tech Center 2800 East Tufts Ave. Denver, Co 80237 Guest Room Rates See www.awci.com for current rates (includes internet & self-parking) Convention Registration Rates Includes all 5 days and most meals** AWCI Members early bird registration (through 7/20/12) - $449 Discounted Airport Shuttle Members standard registration (after 7/20/12) - $499 Provided By SuperShuttle Single-day registration - $250 REC Students – half price – early bird (through 7/20/12) - $225 REC Students – half price – standard (after 7/20/12) - $250 ELM Charitable Trust Dinner (sponsored by Richemont Group) - $75 (per person) *Taxes not included. ** Includes convention-sponsored meals. See agenda for included meals schedule. Registration does not include Guests: Plus-One early bird registration - $299 (per person, includes provided meals) the ELM Trust Dinner on Friday, which is the annual awards dinner to raise funds for the institute. Guests: Plus-One standard registration - $349 (per person, includes provided meals) Register for Convention & Book Hotel at www.awci.com. Questions? Contact: Bonni@stellarmeetings.com, 732-422-8888 AGENDA Wednesday 8/1– Members welcome to all governance meetings. Breakfast - On your own 8:00-10:00 am - Education, Library & Museum Trust Meeting 10:15 am-12:15 pm - Perpetuation Fund Meeting 9:00 am - 12:00 pm - Affiliate Chapters Meeting 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm - Lunch (on your own) 1:30 - 3:30 pm - Board of Examiners Meeting 3:45 – 5:30 pm - Research & Education Council Meeting Dinner - on your own 9 pm- 12 midnight - The Escapement Hospitality Room Thursday 8/2 Breakfast - on your own 8:00 am - 12:00 pm - Industry Advisory Board Meeting 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm - Lunch - on your own 1:30 - 5:30 pm – Board of Directors Meeting 6:30 - 9:00 pm - Welcome Reception 9:00 pm - 12:00 midnight - The Escapement Hospitality Room Friday 8/3 7 - 8:30 am - Breakfast Provided 8 - 8:45 am - Keynote Speaker: Stephen Forsey 9:00 am - 12:30 pm - Watchmaker Education - 3 classes 9:00 am - 12:30 pm - Clockmaker Education - 3 classes 12:30 - 1:30 pm - Lunch Provided 1:30 pm- 5:30 pm - Trade Fair 6:00 - 9:00 pm - Dinner Party at the Forney Museum of Transportation. Featured Speaker: Archie Perkins Fundraising Dinner sponsored by Panerai Watches 9 pm- 12 midnight – The Escapement Hospitality Room Saturday 8/4 7:00 - 8:30 am - Breakfast Provided 8:30 to 12:30 pm - Trade Fair & Archie Perkins book signing 12:30 - 1:30 pm - Lunch Provided 1:30 - 5:30 pm - Watchmaker Education - 3 classes 1:30 - 5:30 pm - Clockmaker Education - 3 classes 6:00 - 7:00 pm - President’s Reception 7:00 - 9:00 pm Rolex AWCI ELM Charitable Trust Awards Dinner Sponsored by Rolex USA 9 pm - 12 midnight - The Escapement Hospitality Room Sunday 8/5 8:00 - 9:30 a.m. - Farewell Breakfast (provided) Transportation to events sponsored by Swatch Group AWCI REGISTRATION DISCOUNT EXTENDED! REGISTER BY 7/20/12: www.awci.com * Not applicable to room rates 4 Horological Times July 2012 Denver 2012 Convention & Educational Symposium OPPORTUNITIES TO LEARN! EDUCATIONAL COURSES SCHEDULE Friday, August 3rd: Courses are repeated to give you flexibility in scheduling Watchmaker Education (all 3 classes needed for CEU credit) 9:00 am – 10:05 am Water Resistance Testing For Protection And Profit Wesley Grau, CMW21 10:10 am – 11:15 am Measure Twice, Cut Once Thomas Schomaker, CMW21 11:20 am – 12:30 pm Quartz Electrical Tests: How They Can Help Your Bottom Line Jordan Ficklin, CW21 Clockmaker Education 9:00 am – 10:05 am Chelsea Clock, The Next 100 Years Bob Ockenden, CMC 10:10 am – 11:15 am French Striking Clocks Roland Iverson, CMC Horology Business Session - For Watch & Clockmakers 11:20 am – 12:30 pm Marketing Your Horology Business Mark Purdy, CMC Saturday, August 4th: Clockmaker Education 1:30 pm – 2:45 pm Chelsea Clock, The Next 100 Years Bob Ockenden, CMC 2:30 pm – 3:45 pm French Striking Clocks, Roland Iverson, CMC Horology Business Session - For Watch & Clockmakers 4:00 pm – 5:30 pm Marketing Your Horology Business Mark Purdy, CMC Watchmaker Education (all 3 classes needed for CEU credit) 1:30 pm – 2:45 pm Quartz Electrical Tests: How They Can Help Your Bottom Line Jordan Ficklin, CW21 2:30 pm – 3:45 pm Measure Twice, Cut Once, Thomas Schomaker, CMW21 4:00 pm – 5:30 pm Water Resistance Testing For Protection And Profit Wesley Grau, CMW21 Bob Ockenden, CMC Jordan Ficklin, CW21 Thomas Schomaker, CMW21 Wesley Grau, CMW21 Mark Purdy, CMC Roland Iverson, CMC CONVENTION REGISTRATION DISCOUNT EXTENDED TO 7/20/12: www.awci.com Horological Times July 2012 5 2012 Convention & Educational Symposium Another Reason to Go to Denver! We have an activity that might interest you! Are you a history buff? Well, as you may know from the movie, “Unsinkable Molly Brown,” Molly was one of the survivors of the Titanic disaster. She hailed from Denver and her house has been made into a museum. The Molly Brown House Museum is easily accessible by the Tram which is a block from our host hotel. Denver I will make all the arrangements. Payment can be made at the time of the visit. I will schedule a morning tour and then you can “do” lunch together (I’ll have choices for you) after the tour. Remember, you can read a book in your room, but why not get out and enjoy the high altitude air while in Denver! For more info visit: www.mollybrown.org See you in Denver, Terry Kurdzionak In commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the Titanic disaster, the museum is conducting guided “Titanic” tours. Tickets are $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $6 for children ages 6-12. Advanced registration is required for these tours and I will assist with arrangements. The museum has recommended a few local restaurants for lunch which are handy to the museum. If you do not plan to attend the educational session and/or vendor fair on Friday, August 3rd, and are interested in attending the Molly Brown museum and home, please email me, terrykurdz@gmail.com and Join us 8/3/12 for the Molly Brown House “Titanic Tours” in Denver. 6 Horological Times July 2012 FREIGHT SAVINGS SAVINGS PLAN FREIGHT PLAN AWCI headquarters uses the Freight Savings Plan and saves over $1,000.00 a year. As an AWCI member, you can save up to: l 29%* on select FedEx Express® services. l 25%* on select FedEx Express international services. (U.S. customers only) l 20% on select FedEx Ground® services. l 20% on select FedEx Office® printing and copying services. See us at the 2012 AWCI Convention in August! AWCI Freight Savings Plan Easy to use. Simple to sign up. Significant savings. To enroll go to: http://www.siriani.com/awcifsp If you have questions, call service provider Siriani: 800-554-0005 toll-free phone: 800-554-0005 toll-free fax: 800-554-5049 e-mail: solutions@siriani.com website: www.siriani.com mailing address: 3505 Cadillac Ave., Ste. F3 Costa Mesa, CA 92626 * Includes a 5% discount for creating shipping labels for eligible FedEx Express® shipments using FedEx Ship Manager® at fedex.com or other FedEx® electronic shipping solutions. FedEx discounts are off published rates and cannot be combined with other offers or discounts. Discounts are exclusive of any FedEx surcharges, premiums, minimums, accessorial charges or special handling fees and are not available to package consolidators. For eligible FedEx® services and rates, contact your freight savings program provider, Siriani. See the applicable FedEx Service Guide for terms and conditions of service offerings and money-back guarantee programs. FedEx service marks used by permission. from the Shakespeare’s Advice for Accounts Receivable A ccounts receivables look good on paper, but may not be worth the cost of the paper. Receivables are debts owed by one entity to another. A recent article in The Wall Street Journal highlighted a growing problem for small businesses working for much larger firms. Many large firms are deliberately delaying their payments to small vendors and those vendors were reluctantly accepting these delayed payments. The large firms conserve cash by delaying their customary 30-day payments to 60 or 90 days, and sometimes even longer. One self-employed website designer reported that his client owed him $6,600 and took over 400 days to pay the bill. He had to borrow funds for a year just to cover that one receivable. Two-thirds of small businesses surveyed reported an increasing problem with overdue invoices. Delaying payments make the larger firms’ balance sheets look better as they are literally hoarding cash loaned to them, at no interest, by their captive vendors. Notice the word “captive.” These small vendors, all with annual revenue under five million dollars, and most far smaller than that, face a dilemma. If they pressure the overdue clients for payment, they fear the loss of that client’s business, which can be a disaster for a small business, especially one that heavily depends upon a large volume of business generated by only a few clients. The loss of one major client can jeopardize the health of a small business. If they continue to work with the client, they may have to wait longer and longer to collect for their services with the possibility of never collecting the overdue debt. Clients may walk away from their debt, fully understanding that a small vendor cannot afford the cost workshop by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 of legal collection proceedings. If a client declares bankruptcy, many of its small vendors will fall into the class of unsecured creditors. Those creditors generally receive little or nothing from the bankruptcy proceedings. Why mention all this to watchmakers? Over the past few years, several members have spoken to me about their losses and in a few cases, the losses have been over ten thousand dollars. That may not be much money to a Wall Street trader, but it represents a substantial part of the annual income of most watchmakers I know. A couple of years ago there was a well-known local chain of watch specialty stores in a major metropolitan area. This store carried over thirty-five lines of high-quality watches and did over $20 million per year turnover. This well-known chain even had a U.S. president on their list of prestigious clients. The store advertised in multiple media outlets and you could not miss its advertising blitz at the international airport. The public’s perception of this store was very favorable in light of its advertising campaign and its public relations department. In reality, the store operated as outlined in the Wall Street Journal’s article. They paid their large, important creditors somewhat on time. If not, those critical large vendors would halt shipments of watches. On the other hand, they began to stretch out their payments to their smaller vendors and that included a number of independent watchmakers. At first, the delay was only a few days, but as time passed the delay stretched from weeks into months. Some watchmakers wisely decided to stop working with this store while others continued and tolerated the delayed payments in the hope that the situation would improve. That proved to be a bad decision. Suddenly, the chain of stores closed without notice one morning and the owners quietly fled the country. A few days passed, the secured creditors seized the store and hired receivers who filed for bankruptcy liquidation. They sold off the assets and divided the proceeds amongst the secured creditors who received a percentage of the amount they were owed. The unsecured creditors, including several watchmakers, received little or nothing. The watchmakers 8 Horological Times July 2012 from the workshop by Jack Kurdzionak, CW21 who decided to quit working with this store long before the bankruptcy did not lose any money. They moved on and found other stores willing to pay on time for their services. Bankruptcy liquidation literally is the death and burial of a business. Fortunately, most businesses remain solvent, but solvent businesses can be very slow to pay their small business vendors. Because of this, the independent trade watchmaker needs to take a few steps to protect his own business and his income. Remember the advice Polonius gave to his son in Hamlet: “Neither a borrower, nor a lender be; For loan oft loses both itself and friend.” After four hundred years, this is still sound advice, especially the warning not to make a loan. It is very easy to make a bad loan and very difficult to collect a bad debt. What steps can a watchmaker take to insure payment? to the credit card issuer, but you will be paid. One watchmaker said to me that he would rather have 97% of something than 100% of nothing. 5. If your trade accounts have been regular with their payments, you may wish to continue offering credit to them. Make sure you monitor all of your receivables and note anychanges made to the payment schedule without your permission. A sincere client will ask permission to delay a payment due to some unforeseen circumstance. The others will just start making late payments. The warning signs will be there. They include late payments, increasingly longer payment dates, and worst of all, bad checks. If you see any warning signs, it will be time to re-examine your receivables policy and modify it in your favor. There was a man, now deceased, in the Midwest who repaired watchcases. Over the course of a de 1. Watchmakers with ten to twenty small accade or so, he repaired numerous cases for us. Re counts are always far better than a watchgardless of how much work we sent to him, he nev maker who services a few large accounts. er extended credit to us. We would send the case, If you have twenty small accounts, the loss of he would send an estimate, we would mail a check one or two will not cause a financial problem. with our approval, and he would repair the case If you have two very large accounts, the loss and return it. After a few years, we short-circuited of one can be a disaster to your small busithis procedure. Since we only sent case work pre ness. Diversify your customer base and approved by our customers, we began enclosing a remember the old adage to “Never put all of $100 bill with each case. Not surprisingly, he quickly your eggs in one basket.” repaired those cases and returned them with an invoice marked paid. He also enclosed our change, in 2. Some watchmakers will not deliver any repair cash, with the repaired case. Before he passed away, until paid for in full. That means cash, check I asked him why he did not accept open accounts. He or credit card payment at the time of coyly remarked that he had an arrangement with his delivery. In the old days, they called it C.O.D. bank. “The bank would not repair watchcases if he In most states the law is on your side in this agreed not to loan money.” I guess he was a student matter; you have a lien on the repaired item of Shakespeare in his younger days. t until you receive payment. 3. Some watchmakers demand a deposit by cash, check or credit card before beginning any work with the balance to be paid C.O.D. 4. Almost every retail store now has a corporate credit card. If you provide trade repairs for stores, consider having them pay by credit card if they find it inconvenient to pay by check. Yes, you will pay a processing fee DID YOU KNOW? You can get immediate feedback on the parts and information you need by joining AWCI’s Technical Discussion & Parts Forum. Go to: www.awci.com/forums/ Horological Times July 2012 9 INTRODUCTION TO “WHAT’S NEW” FEATURE SECTION If you haven’t registered yet, better hurry! Go to www.awci.com and click on the “Convention Registration button.” Amy Dunn, Editor, Horological Times adunn@awci.com “What’s New” is the editorial focus for this issue of HT magazine. In the following pages you’ll see a variety of tools, equipment and techniques that cover a range of advancements over the last several years in the horology industry. These topics are of interest to clockmakers and watchmakers. Look for this icon to see the companies exhibiting at the 2012 Convention Trade Fair: In addition, you’ll see previews of some of the new equipment and tools that will be on display at the 2012 Convention and Educational Symposium in Denver. The convention Trade Fair will be on Friday, August 3rd from 1:30 pm to 5:30 pm and on Saturday, August 4th from 8:30 am to 12:30 pm. Zenith Radiant Cleaner #777 high performance solution cleans and shines delicate watch and clock parts. The "Ultimate" Hair Spring Cleaner leaves hair springs perfectly clean and dry with no oily film. Unique Soak & Coat Jar for immersing and coating delicate watch parts with Epi-Kote. 230.022 $42.50 820.512 $18.00 150.015 $18.00 Epi-Kote is a surface treatment to prevent spreading of oil to unwanted watch and clock parts. 420.130 30ml $17.95 420.131 50ml 34.95 420.132 100ml 59.95 Call 1.800.487.0408 Fax 1.800.487.5848 Shop our web site: casker.com IMPORTERS/DISTRIBUTORS - 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR CINCINNATI OH 45231 10 Horological Times July 2012 Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Watch Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey is the Keynote Speaker at the AWCI 2012 Convention and Educational Symposium. According to Greubel Forsey, this timepiece marks a first for the company and the history of GMT watches. After exploring, inventing, and developing new mechanisms in the world of the tourbillon over the last decade, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have now combined it with a new complication, the GMT, which they have interpreted in their own way. With this timepiece, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have focused their energy on indicating a second time zone, a complication traditionally denoted by GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), the historical reference meridian for navigators. beyond the conventional means of displaying a second time zone. The GMT watch features a three-dimensional temporal representation: A rotating terrestrial globe offering a truly original view of time all over the world. This technical marvel provides us with a completely new way of perceiving different time zones. Nestled in a prominent position at 8 o’clock, the “flying” globe is ingeniously secured at just one end of its rotational axis—the South Pole—allowing for optimal views of the intricate surface that has been crafted on the strong, yet lightweight, titanium sphere. While the globe makes one complete rotation every 24 hours anticlockwise (the Earth’s natural rotational direction) the position of the continents can be neatly cross-referenced with the 24-hour, day-and-night indicator on the equatorial chapter ring. The night-time hemisphere—18:00 to 6:0— is indicated by a blackened half of the ring around the globe, while the daytime hemisphere—6:00 to 18:00—is indicated by a whitened portion. The latter is enhanced by a lateral window cleverly integrated into the caseband, which lets in light to symbolize daytime on the globe, and reveals more of the southern hemisphere. A highly-practical complication and one greatly-valued by connoisseurs, a second time zone is of particular benefit for globetrotting business professionals, frequent leisure travelers and those with family and friends around the world. True to their philosophy and continuous quest for perfection and innovation, Greubel Forsey has gone Horological Times July 2012 11 time disc and radiantly lighting up the movement of this stunning timepiece. The GMT is reinforced by the hallmarks of Greubel Forsey’s renowned superlative fine finishing and attention to detail. The full range of traditional handfinishing techniques have been employed including graining, beveling, polishing, lapping, frosting and flat black polishing. So if it is midday in England, the viewer can see at a glance that it is the beginning of the afternoon in Geneva or Rome, that the sun is only just rising on the East Coast of the United States and that the darkness of night has fallen over the Far East. Just one quick glance is enough to know the time anywhere in the world. The intuitively interpreted globe is complemented at 10 o’clock by the 12-hour second time zone dial giving a precise indication of the time in a designated second country or city and is easily adjusted using the quick-set, dual-function pusher on the caseband at 10 o’clock. Cascading clockwise around the dial-side are the main indications comprising a principal hour-minute dial at one o’clock, on top of which is a small seconds dial at three o’clock, while at four o’clock is a power reserve indicator. On the technical side, the movement consists of: • 436 components, 87 of which are used in the tourbillon cage, weighing 0.36 grams • Two coaxial mainspring barrels connected in a series provide a power reserve of 72 hours • The movement is equipped with a variable inertia balance beating at 21,600vph/3Hz • Phillips terminal curve balance spring Plates and bridges are hand-finished, frosted, spotted, beveled, straight-grained, matt-lapped and flatblack polished. The dial is in 18k gold and the movement is housed in a white gold case of 43.50 mm in diameter with a height of 16.14 mm. The case is completed by domed sapphire crystals for the dial-side, display-back and lateral window, all treated with anti-reflective coating. The timepiece is complemented by a hand-sewn black alligator leather strap with a Greubel Forsey folding clasp in white gold. To see stunning close-ups and read more about this watch, visit the dedicated GMT microsite at http:// novelty.greubelforsey.com/ The specially-developed movement of the GMT features the 25° inclined Tourbillon 24 Secondes cage, one of Greubel Forsey’s major patented inventions. In addition to its superb chronometric virtues and reliability, its compact size allows space for the other complications. Turning over the GMT reveals the beautifully-crafted “worldtime” disc bearing the names of 24 cities, each representing one of the different global time zones. Aligning the relevant city with the local hour on the outer chapter ring—or inner ring for cities with summer time—sets the dial-side globe in the correct position. Completing the display-back is a gleaming sun, providing a visual reference for midday on the world 12 Horological Times July 2012 Butterworth Clocks What’s New in the World of Clocks? Butterworth Clocks has developed a new set of drill bits for those who use a drill press or hand drill in KWM® bushing work. These drill bits, made in the U.S., are of the best quality molybdenum HSS steel, and are specially modified by Butterworth Clocks for drilling brass, the company notes. Each one is individually tested and is 135-degree split point. They are available in reamer sizes I, II, III, IV, IVa, and V and can be sold per set of 6 or individually. Butterworth Clocks also has the traditional reamers in both KWM and Bergeon® sizes, and in the KWM reamer size modified to fit in the Bergeon bushing tool. In addition, Butterworth Clocks also has the set of modified drill bits for bringing the bushing flush with the plate and producing a beautiful oil sink. There is an instructional video on using the drill press for bushing work on www.youtube.com under “Butterworth1725.” For more information, please e-mail: butterworth@machlink.com. Cas-Ker Company Cas-Ker Company now offers new assortments for clasps and crystals which will be shown at the AWCI Trade Fair. For example, the selection of large mineral glass crystals pictured is available in assortments for crystal sizes up to 46.0 mm in diameter. These sizes are ideal for servicing today’s larger watches. Cas-Ker Company will be represented at the convention by Rick Foster, Operations Manager. Rick will be on hand to demonstrate products and answer questions about any of the company’s range of products and services. In addition to the assortments, Cas-Ker will be exhibiting a full line of Bergeon hand tools. Many watchmakers consider the horological tools produced by this Swiss manufacturer to be some of the best tools in the business, and Cas-Ker Company is a distributor for Bergeon. Other products exhibited will include tools such as the original Jaxa case wrench, the ultimate case knife #6987, and popular Swiss-made screwdriver sets. For more information visit: www.casker.com. Bergeon 2819-08 Jaxa Case Wrench. Would You Like To Be A Contributing Writer? Bergeon 6987 Case Knife If you submit a technical article that is published with us, you will recieve an appreciation fee. If you are a watchmaker or clockmaker and have never written for us before, we welcome you to give it a try! We cherish our current writers and welcome even more new articles! See www.awci.com/horologicaltimes New Domed Mineral Glass Crystal Assortment. Horological Times July 2012 13 HURRY! Register by 7/20/12 for “early bird” registration discount! 14 Horological Times July 2012 Eckcells Mile Hi Clock Supplies Eckcells strives to meet the needs of the bench watchmaker and they will have numerous “suitcasefriendly” items for sale. To give a history of the company, Terry Kurdzionak purchased the battery portion of a local distributor/jeweler, Eckstein Imports in 1998. Mr. Eckstein retired and it was decided to use the first part of his name, ECK, and add CELLS (batteries) to create the business name: ECKCELLS. Mile Hi Clock Supplies will be exhibiting a range of equipment and supplies for clockmakers. Two precision tools you can view at their booth are their Keystone brand Clockmakers Depthing Tool and their Clock Mainspring Winder. In the beginning, the company carried batteries only, and then the business really began to grow, adding watch parts, tools and movements. Now the company needs more space and will be moving to a new location in New Hampshire. Eckcells will continue to be open for business throughout the transition. Under the new company QUICK-FIT, LLC, Terry and Jack Kurdzionak will also continue to do business as Eckcells. For information go to: www.eckcells.com. I cannot wait to see those Rocky Mountains in person! What a fantastic place for the AWCI annual convention. The trade fair is a good opportunity to meet your suppliers…to put a face on the other end of that phone call, fax or e-mail. Plus, there will be watch supplies for sale, and equipment for demonstration and sale. The trade fair also gives the vendors a chance to network with each other. The unique CDT-2 Depthing Tool allows the clockmaker to observe, adjust, measure, prove, duplicate and troubleshoot almost every application of gearing in clockworks without having to partially assemble a movement. This is possible because the depthing tool holds the clock wheel and its mating pinion in the same position they will occupy in a completed clock. According to the company, their Keystone CMW-2 Mainspring Winder is simple, versatile and safe. To see the numerous features of this device, visit their AWCI Trade Fair booth, or view it online at www. milehiclocksupplies.com. I encourage you to get to this convention! You’ll make new friends, learn new things, and enjoy the reception and our infamous “hospitality suite” run by member, Ron Price, his wife Loretta, and his convention committee. Then there’s the ELM Trust dinner, the education classes for watchmakers and clockmakers, and finally, our Awards Dinner on Saturday evening. We won’t be in “St. Louie,” but you can still “Meet Me at the Fair” in the “Mile-High City!” Terry Kurdzionak Convention Hospitality Committee Keystone CMW-2 Mainspring Winder. The Mile High City Horological Times July 2012 15 Solutions for Electric Clocks Designed to Run on a Different Voltage or Hertz By Jay Holloway, Capital Area Watchmaker and Clockmaker Guild, Texas As a person who performs horological appraisals, along with clock repair and case restoration, you speak to a lot of people from many walks of life. I find their needs may vary, but they have one item in common: A passion for a clock. In most situations, enthusiasts like a mechanical clock, but we are finding more and more, many like an electric clock. Some of the electric clocks are European or Asian in origin, once belonging to a relative which brings back fond memories to the person. A key issue with corded electric clocks made in the United States when compared to those made in Europe or Asia, is in the power source and frequency rating of the power. North American products use 110 volts with 60 Hz while Europe, Asia and South America use 220 volts with 50 Hz. run accurately in any country no matter the country of origin or country of use. The product is called a 1930 Frequency-Precise Power Inverter for Clocks and Timing Devices. There is a second item I found to help customers who see neat electric clocks and buy them, only to find out they were “slave clocks,” which means they advanced only when sent an “impulse” from a master clock. Again, these clocks were found in offices, factories, schools, etc. Since the client does not have the master clock, they have a slave clock that will not run. The solution is a product called the Model 1900W-UNV Modular Clock Winder. It will send an impulse every minute to advance the slave clock while keeping it accurate to within 15 seconds per year. We hope clockmakers find these products useful when encountering customer questions and challenges in electric clock repair. Visit www.cawcg.org for more information. What causes a problem? It’s the difference in voltage and Hz. Clocks that run from a power cord off the country’s power supply will keep accurate time because the motors within the clocks synchronously “lock” to a frequency within the power line. What does the difference in Hertz mean? If a clock designed for 50 Hz (manufactured in Europe or Asia) is powered here in the U.S., the clock will gain time at a rate of 12 minutes per hour! The reverse is also true for American clocks being run outside the North America: They will run too slow. Model 1930 Frequency-Precise Power Inverter with adapter. The next obvious issue is the power line rating: 110 vs. 220. Products designed for 110 power will not handle the higher voltage without causing a hazard. Conversely, products designed for 220 do not run using the 110 power. A solution was found when an electrical engineer and clock enthusiast developed a product that will take a 110 volt—60 Hz current and convert it to a 220 volt—50 Hz current. Vice-versa, it is able to take a 220—50 Hz current and convert it to a 110 – 60 Hz current. This allows a clock to be taken anywhere and The 1900W-UNV Modular Clock Winder. 16 Horological Times July 2012 Gaber & Company USA Extra large is now extra stylish in the watch world! To keep up with the demand for these large sizes, Gaber & Company USA has designed red plastic case-back gaskets in extra-large sizes. The gaskets are Swiss made with measurements of 0.58 mm wide by 0.90 mm tall. The new sizes available from Gaber range from 33.5 mm through 43.0 mm wide in diameter. These gaskets can be purchased in 20-piece assortments or sold individually. The common cotter pin used to hold band links together are now made in wider sizes to accommodate today’s new, wider metal watch bracelet size adjustments. These cotter pins are now available from Gaber and Company USA at 0.90 mm thick and range from 23.0 mm to 32.0 mm in length. The cotter pins come in a 45-piece assortment or refills of 10 per size. For more information, please e-mail: cgaber@aol.com. Extra-large cotter pins for metal watch bracelets. Extra-large case-back gaskets. If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes The Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces certain to be of interest to collectors and connoisseurs. CHRONOS includes interesting stories about the world of automobiles and racing. Coverage of outstanding museum exhibits, fashion trends, and travel stories all add to the enjoyment and satisfaction of this unique lifestyle magazine. oOne Year (6 issues) $30.00 oTwo Years (12 issues) $ 55.00 oThree Years (18 issues) $80.00 Foreign Subscriptions U.S. Dollars Only oOne Year (6 issues) $48.00 oTwo Years (12 issues) $90.00 oThree Years (18 issues) $116.00 ______ Check or Money Order Enclosed ______ Charge my Visa or MasterCard Card No. _______________________________________________ Exp. Date: ______________Security Code: __________________ Signature;_____________________________________________ Name: (please print) _______________________________________________________ Address: ________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ State:_________________ Zip: ________ Country: _______________________________Phone: __________________________ Mail to: CHRONOS 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 USA Horological Times July 2012 17 Jules Borel & Co. According to Gary Borel, Jules Borel & Co. takes customer ideas and requests seriously. So seriously, in fact, that many times they have invented or modified tools and machines to provide better equipment for the industry. The company’s latest innovation, which will be shown at the AWCI convention, falls into this category. It’s a single vacuum pump system with a unique electrical fitting that allows the operation of two bench vacuum setups for vacuuming watch movements and crystals. In effect, you double the capacity of one pump and avoid the need to purchase a second pump, which can mean significant savings. Gary Borel heard this request from a customer and set to work to create this dual watch vacuum cleaning system. To produce the AC6100/V2 Double Bench Vacuum System, he used a USA-made vacuum pump, directed the development of the new electrical component, and equipped it with Swissmade tubing and stands. He believes this combination represents the “best of both worlds.” In addition to showing the double-bench vacuum system, the company will be exhibiting timing machines, water testing equipment, and the new Revelator R1 testing machine by Roxer SA. For more information visit: www.julesborel.com Sy Kessler Sales – Renata – GemOro GemOro Superior Instruments introduces its new AuRACLE AGT2 Mobile Gold and Platinum Tester. The AGT2 is the world’s first precious metals tester that works with the Apple iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch and Android devices. The AGT2 uses the same proven, patented technology as the AGT1, which is recognized internationally. The GemOro AuRACLE AGT2 tests all gold colors between 6-24K, tests platinum, and also identifies non-gold, gold filled or plated as NA when easy steps are followed. It features two dynamic userchangeable displays: a digital bar graph with large, alphanumeric readout and an analog meter readout. Users can instantly save test result history for tracking, and optional Apps will be available for screen customization and increased productivity. Both the AGT1 and new AGT2 use no messy gels, no dangerous acids or staining chemical. It will be available in the fall of 2012 through Sy Kessler Sales. For additional information go to www. gemoroproducts. com. The company will also be displaying Renata batteries and a variety of watch tools at the AWCI convention. The new GemOro mobile gold and platinum tester for Apple and Android devices. The new Double Bench Vacuum System. 18 Horological Times July 2012 Tampa, FL Micropower Battery Company Micropower Battery Company is excited to exhibit at this year’s AWCI conference in Denver. Established in 1990, MBC, since 1993, is the lead importer and master distributor for Sony brand watch batteries in the Americas. We carry the entire Sony microbattery product line of silver oxide, lithium coin and alkaline button cell batteries. Sony was the first manufacturer to commercialize mercury-free silver oxide batteries and they have won awards for their “MF” product design. Their design uses an array of three key discoveries which have been patented, and their product quality makes absolutely no sacrifices to battery capacity, shelf life or to their superior anti-leakage design. To date, Sony has produced more than five billion watch batteries. Presently, their annual production volume approaches 400 million cells and they are the largest producer of silver oxide watch batteries in Japan. All of Sony’s silver oxide and alkaline button cells are manufactured in Japan. Product is available in 5-piece tear-strip packaging. We are bringing extremely competitive pricing directly to the watch repair shop dealer. You can buy directly from the importer—stop by our booth and speak to Nikki Floyd, our inside sales representative, for a price list and sample of our product. All orders generally ship the same day. You can expect and demand only the best service from Micropower Battery Company. Our e-commerce site, www.microbattery. com has been live since 2001 and we can accept orders 24/7. Your Horological Source Since 1969 Available Online at www.LivesaysInc.com Set of 6 Hands for ETA/Valjoux 7750 This is a full set of 6 replacement hands to fit ETA/Valjoux 7750 movements. The set includes one each minute, hour and center second hands, in addition to three remote dial hands. The hands are a shiny steel color, with white luminous compound strip in the minute and hour hands. Length: • Minute = 12.5mm from center • Hour = 8.5mm from center • Center Second = 13.5mm from center • Remote = 3.5mm from center Stock #HAN-7750 $19.95 per set Now available, domed sapphire watch crystals from 28.0mm to 33.0mm in 0.5mm increments. 28.0mm thru 29.5mm $40.00 each 30.0mm thru 31.0mm $46.00 each 31.5mm thru 33.0mm $49.00 each Prices subject to change without notice. 7/12 Phone Orders (800) 476-2715 Fax Orders (800) 476-8016 Email: info@LivesaysInc.com Online Catalog: www.LivesaysInc.com Horological Times July 2012 19 Magnum Power Products Member, Bill Dugger, has developed a new, affordable way to test watches for leaks. His company, Magnum Power Products, Inc., states that their new Watch Leak Test System uses a vacuum bubble testing method that any competent repairperson can operate. The product is manually operated. Using distilled water to test a watch case for leaks, the lid is fit onto the jar and the handle is attached and pumped several times to create a vacuum. The repairperson visually inspects the watch part for bubbles indicating leaks. The company notes that a properly-tested watch will be safe for daily use in normal activities, such as bathing or swimming, to depths of 12 meters. For more information contact: dugger02@cox.net. Close-Up of Gauge Indicating Vacuum Pressure—Measures up to 1 Atmos. “Spare Parts, Tools, And Supplies Sold By Professional Watchmakers To Professional Watchmakers” WHEN YOU SEE THIS TRADEMARK ON A MOVEMENT… …You have a Sellita SW200 movement and need a repair kit from Eckcells. Each kit contains 18 commonly-needed spare parts. Refills are always available. We stock all other movement parts needed to repair these quality movements used by Tag Heuer, Movado, Raymond Weil, Oris, and many other fine brands. (NOTE: Most ETA parts do not fit these movements.) Order Yours Now for $99.95 (a savings of $6.15 if purchased separately) eckcells 379 Main St • Stoneham, MA 02180 1-781-438-3208 • eckcells@gmail.com The Watch Leak Test System from Magnum Power Products. Utilizes vacuum bubble testing method. 20 www.eckcells.com We accept all major credit cards Horological Times July 2012 awci health insurance news HEALTH INSURANCE PROGRAMS FOR AWCI MEMBERS Association Health Programs is the provider of the NEW and EXCLUSIVE health program including health insurance, long-term care insurance, life insurance, disability income and more. These offerings are available to all members, their families and employees. To inquire about the program, please use the link below or contact us at: 888-450-3040. Health Insurance • Individual & Families • Group Insurance • Health Savings Accounts • Dental Long-Term Care Insurance • Life Insurance • Disability Income • Critical Illness • Annuities & More www.associationpros.com Horological Times July 2012 21 Expand your profit opportunities through a strong brand that resonates with shoppers and has a complete portfolio of products don’t just take our word for it… TM energizer.com *Actual rating found on Energizer.com ©2012 Energizer Energizer, Energizer Bunny design and other marks are trademarks of Energizer. See page 42 for course dates What Members Have to Say About This New Class... “The Advanced 21 series class on Rolex Caliber 3035 was fantastic. The new technical guide was worth the price of the class. Tom and the staff, along with Rolex, created a tech guide with larger and more detailed pictures that makes ordering parts much easier now that screws must be individually ordered. It was very well thought out. The class provided great insight into the current factory service center practices and procedures. I am not working in an authorized Rolex store, but I do work for Rolex dealers and these series of classes are my path to get the factory training the authorized stores’ in-house watchmakers are getting. Thanks go to AWCI and Tom Schomaker for working to bring these higher level classes to me. I appreciate the extra effort it the material presented.” - Jeff Forslund, CW21, Lake Country Jewelers Ltd., Pewaukee, WI “Working with AWCI from the beginning to the present has been a wonderful experience. I recently took the AWCI Advanced 21 Series/Rolex caliber 3035 class from Tom Schomaker. I have serviced this movement many times before, and I had good results with no big complaints. So, I thought, “What’s this Advanced 21 Series class going to teach me that I don’t already know?” Boy, was I in for a surprise! Just receiving the tech info that AWCI and Rolex put together was great! Since I took the class, I have opened up this manual for help many times. It’s been a great watchmaking resource. The 3035 class has offered in-depth information on this caliber that helps in checking endshakes, making adjustments, provides the proper servicing method, proper oiling, timing adjustment and guidance on properly polishing the case and band. Tom Schomaker has done a wonderful job on teaching these steps in detail. I went to this class with limited knowledge of the 3035 and by Friday, I walked away gaining 100% more information than I had walking in. I want to thank AWCI and Rolex for giving CW21s the chance and opportunity to receive such wonderful knowledge!” - Asad Khan , CW21, www.watchrepairshoponline.com Horological Times July 2012 23 What’s New at BASELWORLD 2012 A ccording to a release from BASELWORLD, the luxury watch market remains strong: “Within a tough environment, the watch industry is holding up well—and even setting new records. Baselworld 2012 continued onward from an excellent year in 2011 that saw 29.8 million watches exported, representing a total value of 19.3 billion Swiss francs . . . [The] demand for luxury products continues to increase and the potential of certain emerging markets, including Asia and the Middle East, favors its development.“ The exhibition moved up their dates this year to March. Attendance was 104,300 with 1,815 exhibitors from 41 countries. Next year will see the opening of a new hall complex designed by the Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed the famous Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing. Next year the event will once again be held in April, running from April 25 through May 2, 2013. AWCI Member Gives His Impression of the 2012 Show “What I saw at BASELWORLD this year was the continuing trend towards the larger, more bulky watch styles. This is important to us as a material supplier. We need to have products in inventory ready to deliver, along with the parts and tools necessary for these larger sizes. throughout the country also schedule meetings and demonstrations at their offices coinciding with the timing of BASELWORLD. Although we always visit the Basel exhibition, it’s also very beneficial for us to spend time with the horological suppliers not exhibiting at the fair.” Chris Gaber Gaber & Company, USA A Look at Two Exhibitors’ Displays Greiner Vibrograf This Swiss manufacturer produces a range of equipment for the watchmaking industry including timing instruments, demagnetizers, cleaning equipment, tools, polishing The new Polimaxx multi- machines and more. At BASELpurpose polishing ma- WORLD they introduced sevchine with 0.5 HP motor eral new pieces of equipment from Greiner Vibrograf. and also demonstrated the Chrono Touch watch tester with simple touch-screen control, now in the prototype stage. One item of interest this year is their new 2-speed Polimaxx polishing machine. It’s a multi-purpose unit with many sophisticated technical features. The company states the motor on this unit is maintenancefree and is the most powerful in its class at 0.5 HP. The triple filter system provides > 90% filtration of particulate matter. Additionally, models will soon be available with infinitely variable speed control. I also see the industry paying more attention to ladies styles. Some of today’s ladies watches are larger, similar to the sizes found on men’s timepieces of yesterday’s fashion trends. They are also including on ladies styles chronograph functions previously found exclusively on gents movements. There are still others that are the more traditional smaller, refined types. Overall, this represents a broader range of choices for the women’s market. It also seems BASELWORLD has turned into more than just the horological fair in Basel. Our suppliers The Greiner Vibrograf exhibit space at BASELWORLD 2012. 24 Horological Times July 2012 Witschi Electronic Ltd. This 65-year old Swiss firm is offering a new line of specialty equipment for jewelers, service centers or independent shops to generate additional income. The company says this lower priced equipment is designed to be easy to operate, yet it is made with the quality and performance the industry expects. The two new instruments are their ChronoCube®, a testing device for mechanical watches, and the ChronoProof® for measuring water resistance. No special prior knowledge is needed to operate this equipment, yet it’s a way to guarantee customers their watch is fully intact after a successful repair or battery change. Witchi is taking a new path in marketing these measuring devices. The line will be sold in the company’s online shop at: www.witschi.com. t The compact ChronoProof® with integrated compressor enables the user to reliably seal test all types of wristwatches quickly. No parameterization or programming is needed—insert the watch, close the test chamber and everything takes place automatically. BUSHINGS! KWM SIZE IN BRONZE $4.00/ 20 pc PACK KWM SIZE IN BRASS $8.00/ 50 pc PACK No min order. No small parts surcharge. Mailing $2 US/CAN, $5 Internatl. Butterworth Clocks, Inc. Urs Haeni, Witschi Sales Manager, at recent BASELWORLD exhibition. 5300 59th Ave. West Muscatine, IA 52761 Phone: 563-263-6759 Fax: 563-263-0428 E-mail: butterworth@machlink.com Horological Times July 2012 25 technical discussions BY LAURIE PENMAN Preparing and Using a Burnisher, Part 3 Pivot Turning and Tool Sharpening The Grindstone S harpening tools make use of abrasives as we have seen in the prior article. The grindstone is an abrasive, as well. Let us look more closely at the use and maintenance of this machine. The individual grits are cutting tools and the design of the wheel is constructed using several criteria. The effectiveness of the grits depends upon them maintaining their cutting edges until the material they are cutting blunts them, whereupon they break off, exposing fresh, sharp grits. The main factors that are considered when making a grinding wheel are: • The • The • The • The • The Figure 16 material that it is intended to grind hardness and size of the grits binding that holds them together strength of the binding size of spaces between the grits Remember to specify the use for the stone when ordering a grinding wheel. Frequently, the wheel supplied with the machine is intended as a general purpose tool and not a specific tool for sharpening. Clockmaking uses high speed steel (HSS) or tungsten carbide (TC) for cutting tools in the main. The grinding wheels are quite different in composition. Most machines are double-ended with a rough wheel at one end and a finishing or “smooth” wheel at the other. The rough wheel removes metal quickly and is usually only needed when grinding a tool from the basic stick of HSS or a TC blank. Unless there is a catastrophe, the smooth stone used for cleaning the cutting tool of impacted metal (swarf) and for producing a sharp cutting edge, will get most use. As the stone is used, the grits lose their individual sharpness and the cavities fill up with some of the metal that has been removed. The design allows for this to an extent. The binder is only intended to keep the grits in place until they are blunt and break away, but it still fills up and “glazes.” Consequently, Figure 17 the stone needs to be sharpened from time to time; a simple process of hammering away the blunt grits and exposing a clean surface. This tool is called a dresser and is shown in Figure 16. It is comprised of a cast iron holder and a set of toothed-carbon steel disks. When the grinding wheel is rotating, the disks are pressed against its periphery and traversed from side to side, producing a flat surface that is true to the axis of the grinding machine and parallel to it. Figure 17 shows the dresser in use. It is obvious that the stone will be a little smaller in diameter after cleaning, but it is not usually so much so that the tool support needs to be reset until the operation has been performed three or four times. Something else that is obvious, but frequently ig- 26 Horological Times July 2012 preparing and using a burnisher, part 3 BY LAURIE PENMAN as cylinders and bores. All of these have the same speed and feed limitations as can obtained on the lathe. However, when using the process for cutting gear teeth on a thin disk, the cut is interrupted and the tool is only in contact with the work for a brief part of the circle that it rotates through; possibly 5° or 10° out of the full 360°. This allows the tip of the tool to cool off, added to which most of the heat developed in the cutting process is not from friction between tip and work, but is the result of metal deformation in the chip or swarf. Flycutting ejects the chip before it has transferred much of the heat to the tool. Any metal that has a pronounced tendency to stick to the tool tip tends to remove this advantage. Metals like lead, for instance, soft copper and to a lesser extent, modern 70/30 brass do stick. However, these metals do not normally need to be machined in this manner. (Old cast 70/30 brass, which is found in most antique clocks, contains lead and that, ironically, makes it free-cutting and non-stick). Figure 18 nored, is that the grits removed fly off in all directions and at high speed—they are dangerous to the eyes. Protection for the operator is very necessary. Frankly, the transparent guards that often are installed on the machine are inadequate, because it is quite possible for the grits to ricochet off the body of the machine and bypass the guard. You should wear a face guard (see Figure 18) or at least a pair of close-fitting goggles. The key to this is held in the phrase “an interrupted cut.” Fly cutting cannot be carried out at higher than normal cutting feed and speeds if the work consists of several wheel blanks or a pinion; the tool tip will remain in contact with the work for much longer and will overheat. Figure 19 shows the form of cutter and holder that I used in the 1970s. It was, in fact, a boring tool, but the hole for the tool is drilled off-center, which was somewhat unusual at the time, allowing me to use the holder for machining the form tool and then reversing the tool to impose clearance on the cutting surfaces. The grindstone cuts quicker and cooler after dressing. Additionally, it is much less likely to burn the metal of the cutting tool. The Flycutters Most machining operations are limited by the safe cutting speed and feed of the tools’ materials, lowest speeds and feeds, from high carbon steel, through high speed steel (HSS) and tungsten carbide (TC) to diamond. The exception to this is the flycutter when used on an interrupted cut. A flycutter is a single pointed tool that rotates. It can reproduce the functions of a lathe on the milling machine generating flat (or curved surfaces), as well Figure 19 Horological Times July 2012 27 preparing and using a burnisher, part 3 BY LAURIE PENMAN I later came across the Myford boring tool holder (Sherline and others also make the holder) which has an off-center slot that is much more convenient for a rectangular section of tool. I have used that ever since with high carbon steel tool bits and HSS. . If you are not confident in the accuracy of your eye, drill a hole of the right size in a piece of sheet and then cut it in half; use that to guide the grinding of the parting tool. The tool should be no longer than necessary, because it will be making an interrupted cut on the soft high carbon steel and needs to be sturdy. Figure 22 shows the sequence of operations. (Figure 23 is a detail of the holder I now use for fly cutting.) The morse taper size should be chosen to suit both the mandrel of the lathe and the miller or driller used to drive the cutter. In my case, the machines had the same size of taper, but adaptors are often needed, as well as a drawbar, of course. Figure 20 Figure 22 When the tool is formed, remove it from the holder and file the top rake. This provides a proper cutting surface and also removes the place where the interrupted cut has begun, because this is usually rounded over and will not make a good cutting edge. Hardening and tempering is as normal for high carbon steel. Heat this to bright red and keep it at that temperature (no higher) for a minute or two and then quench it in water or oil. Temper by heating gently until a very pale yellow is seen then quench. This is simply stress relieving. The degree of hardness is barely less than dead hard. Figure 21 For cutting gear teeth I find high carbon steel most convenient. The tool bit (rectangular section drill rod, gauge plate or flat ground stock) can be fully annealed and the tooth form cut (Figure 20) using a modified parting tool from HSS (Figure 21). That tool is nothing more than a parting tool. Its width should be ground to be exactly twice the radius of the tooth form and then rounded by eye to a semi-circle. The cutting edges must be cleaned up by carefully stoning the top surface with an emery slip stone. Then, the finished tool bit can be put back into the holder, but in the cutting position (as opposed to the machining position). Side views of the cutter held for form turning and then twizzled round to the cutting position (after hardening and tempering), are given in Figure 24. They should make the process clear. t 28 Horological Times July 2012 preparing and using a burnisher, part 3 BY LAURIE PENMAN 10.77mm dia. 12mm dia. 6mm Draw bar tapping 1/4" BSF or 6mm 25mm 15mm Turning the form Twist through 180 degrees 6mm C/ Line Cutting position Draw bar Figure 24 AW C I M E M B E R B E N E F I T Lathe nose No.1 to 3 Morse taper sleeve Figure 23 HT Classifieds Work for The SWATCH GROUP, CANADA “We had a wonderful response to the [recruitment] ad.” Nina Le, Human Resources, THE SWATCH GROUP, Canada Are You Looking To Hire? Are You Looking for a New Job? Use the AWCI Career Center at www.awci.com and Horological Times Classifieds to get results! Horological Times July 2012 a unique timepiece magazine 3 yrs/only $30 (6 issues) AWCI Members Save $10! Regular Subscription Rate $40. www.watch-around.com Subscribers should visit www.watch-around,com All payments must be made via website. 29 technical discussions BY ROBERT PORTER, CMC How to Make a Winding Pinion and Clutch, Part 2 Grinding the Cutter Forming Tool I n Part 1, we determined the measurements we needed to make a winding pinion and its cutter. Figures 4, 5, and 6 picture a simple and easy-tomake attachment for your watchmaker’s lathe. This attachment will allow us to grind any radius and clearance angle we need on a cutter forming tool made from a 3/16” (.1875”) square high-speed steel lathe tool bit. A sketch of the components is shown in Figure 7. The form tool holder of the prototype attachment was made from pieces of 1/4” thick by 1” wide aluminum sandwiched together as shown in the photos. The only critical dimension is the .1875” distance from the center of the drill rod post to the edge of the slot of the form tool holder. This dimension sets up a zero radius on the form tool. Figure 5 Figures 4, 5 and 6 demonstrate how to easily make a grinding attachment for your watchmaking lathe. (This article is one of a multipart series by Robert Porter, CMC, originally printed in Horological Times beginning in 1998.) NOTE: You should protect the lathe headstock and bed components so they do not become damaged or contaminated with abrasive material. I typically use clear cling wrap to protect the lathe components. Figure 8 illustrates how the attachment works. Shim stock, or a feeler gage, of a thickness equal to the radius we want to grind is used to offset the cutting edge of the forming tool from the center of rotation of the post. Figure 4 Figure 6 A bench grinder is used to carefully remove excess material from the form tool by hand to the approximate shape needed. (Don’t forget to wear eye protection and a dust mask.) Keep a can of water handy to dip the tool into often while grinding to keep the form tool from being tempered to a softer condition. The radius grinding attachment is used to finishgrind the form tool only. Adjust the top slide of the slide rest to a 10° clearance angle as shown in Figure 4, and attach the bearing block. We will use a .5 millimeter (.020”) feeler gage to offset the form tool and also position (by eye) the end of the tool over the point of the steel post, tightening the screws slightly to hold the tool in place. Insert the form tool holder into the bearing block, rotate 30 Horological Times July 2012 how to make a winding pinion and clutch, part 2 BY ROBERT PORTER, CMC Figure 8: Illustrating how the attachment works. Figure 7: Attachment components. the holder and form tool to an upright position, and bring the tool gently against the side of the stationary grinding wheel as shown in Figures 4 and 5. Note the slide rest micrometer reading and then back the holder away from the grinding wheel (toward the lathe tailstock) while still in the upright position. Rotate the holder until the form tool is horizontal and loosen the screws holding the tool so it can be moved by hand. Use the slide rest micrometer to position the holder about .3 mm (.012”) away from the micrometer setting we noted above. Push the end of the form tool gently by hand into the stationary grinding wheel as pictured in Figure 6 and then securely tighten the screws holding the form tool in place. Again, use the slide rest micrometer to back the end of the form tool away from the grinding wheel. Start the grinding wheel rotating and carefully advance the form tool into the side of the wheel while swinging the holder by hand through about 95° to grind the radius and clearance. Continue grinding until the radius is fully formed as shown in Figure 8. Do not allow the holder to go past the vertical. Figure 9 illustrates the complete procedure. Check the radius against the circles in the magnifying comparator. You will be able to grind excellent radius forming tools after a little practice. We’ll make a cutter blank in Part 3 of this series. t Figure 9: Forming tool radius grinding procedure. ©1998 (All rights reserved by the author) Horological Times July 2012 31 technical discussions BY JOHN B. SHADLE, CMC Making Flycutters, Part 2 T his is the second part in a reprint of an article by Mr. Shadle published in Horological Times in January, 2000. Mounting the Radius Tool You will now use the radius tool to cut the tooth form on both sides of the flycutter blank, as shown in Figures 8A and 8B. How you mount the radius tool in your lathe depends on how your lathe is set up. I have a Unimat 3, and I use a couple of “saddles” — Ushaped pieces that are flat on the bottom, as shown in Figure 9. Set the radius tool into the “saddles” and bolt it into the tool block, as shown in Figure 10, using the existing tool block bolt arrangement. of the mount. To minimize chatter, the radius tool cutting edge should be mounted close to the lathe tool block. If you must make more than two saddles to mount it securely, then do so. Making the Flycutter When making the flycutter, run your lathe at a slow speed and use cutting oil. Be sure the radius tool is sharp; if necessary, re-sharpen it during the course of making the flycutter. Carbon tool steel tends to burnish and become hard to cut if you don’t follow these rules. Use the left side of the radius tool to cut one side of the flycutter, and the right side of the radius tool to cut the other side of the flycutter, as shown in Figure 8A. The line scratched in the circumference of the flycutter blank will act as a visual reference, helping you to make both sides of the flycutter tooth profile identical. Use magnification and a dial gauge frequently to achieve the proper thickness of the cutter. Work slowly and carefully! Above all, don’t attempt to make the entire cut with one pass. Make numerous small cuts instead. The proper depth to cut will depend on the size of the “dedendum” of the wheel you’re making, and it’s actually not critical. The notch between wheel teeth must be deep enough to permit the wheel and pinion to mesh without risk of butting. On the other hand, if the tooth is too tall— too much “dedendum”—it’s also weaker. Figure 8A Make the “saddles” by drilling a hole in 1/8” aluminum or brass, using a drill the same size as the radius tool. Then saw away half of it to make a “U.” The “saddles” raise the height of the cutting edge of the radius tool to the tool height of your lathe. If your lathe (like the Unimat 3) uses a 1/4” bit, then the saddle—hence the cutting edge of the radius tool—must be 1/4” high. The cutting edge should be centered on the lathe center, the center of the flycutter blank, as shown in Figure 10. The radius tool should be supported by “saddles” under each tool block bolt, and also at the front edge Figure 8B The depth of the cut into the flycutter must be the same on both sides, as shown in Figure 8A. You can keep the sides identical by making a transverse scratch across the radius tool with a carbide-tipped scratch, as shown in Figure 8A, or (better) use the 32 Horological Times July 2012 Leak tester Leak Checker Prime Figure 9 Figure 10 numerals on the cross-feed dial of your lathe to monitor the depth of cut. To avoid chatter, it is important to cut with the rounded portion of the radius tool, not the straight edge. Feed the cut using the cross feed screw of your lathe, as shown in Figure 8A. If your lathe is equipped with a compound rest, you can also aid cutting by rotating the cutter a few degrees away from the flycutter blank, as shown in Figure 8B. This ensures cutting with the rounded portion of the radius tool. If you use this method, be sure to cut using the cross feed screw, not the compound screw—this prevents undercutting. Sometimes, the between-teeth gaps have rounded bottoms, as seen in Figure 12. (This area is called the “root” of the tooth.) The rounded roots make the tooth stronger. Should you wish to make cutters which cut rounded roots, you can round the outer edges of the cutter to produce round roots at this time. Use a file, being careful to make both sides of the cutter identical. Then polish the cutting edge surface of the cutter, since this affects the finish on the surface of the wheel tooth. The perfect mix of technology and design. Able to test for leaks up to -0.7 bar vacuum, it provides everything you would expect of a modern, easy-to-use leak testing unit. Key features: • Attractive,timelessdesign • Suitableforallwatchtypesincludingsmall ceramicwatches • Withaccurate,robustpressuresensor • Vacuumcreatedbyaninternalpump • Vacuumandtestingtimecanbefreelyselected andprogrammed • Valuesdisplayedonacolortouchscreen • InstantprintoutofresultswithMartelprinter • Extremelycost-effective • Availablefromautumn2012 Greiner Vibrograf Greiner Vibrograf AG, 4900 Langenthal, Switzerland info@greinervibrograf.ch, www.greinervibrograf.ch Horological Times July 2012 lay greiner ins awci-ht 3,5x10inch 1b.indd 1 33 29.05.12 15:51 making flycutters, part 2 BY JOHN B. SHADLE, CMC The fact that the mounting hole you’ve just drilled is off-center and farther from the cutting edge than the center hole of the flycutter blank provides the necessary relief (clearance) of the flycutter under its tip, as previously described. Sharpen, harden and temper to straw color. The cutting surface on the flycutter must be sharp. The sharper the cutter, the less drag and vibration there is when wheel-cutting wheels. Use a belt or disk sander to sharpen the edge. When sharpening this edge after hardening and tempering, don’t overheat it with grinding friction. Figure 11 The spare half-moon can itself be made into another flycutter, and the opposite edge of the flycutter can also be used to cut wheels if a second hole is drilled. Remember to drill the second hole before the cutter is hardened, and grind another radial flat as you did on the original side of the cutter. The second cutting edge provides a spare, in case you blunt one side when wheel cutting. You now have made two cutters with four cutting edges — perhaps you can trade cutters with your friends. Making cutters is only the beginning of making wheels. Details on topics such as indexing, cutting speeds, cutter alignment, and so on, are covered in other publications, some of which are listed in the bibliography. The [AWCI] library has many such references, as well as excellent video tapes on wheel and pinion cutting by J.M. Huckabee. Figure 12 Finishing the Flycutter Remove the cutter blank from the lathe arbor and cut it in half through the center hole to form two half-moons. Further trim, as using a jeweler’s saw or a fine-toothed hacksaw. Drill a mounting hole rather near one end—in the “horns” of the half-moon. This hole is used to screw the flycutter onto an arbor for your milling machine or milling attachment. The cutter is further sharpened on a line radial to the cutter mounting hole. Use a small belt sander with a work table or a file to make this cutting surface, which must be quite flat. Always be aware of matters of safety. Wear safety goggles when operating any machine, even when you think it’s safe to work without them. It’s even more important to remember eye safety when working with small parts and machines, since it’s tempting to aid vision by putting your eyes close to small work. Even small machines can produce nasty cuts if you’re careless, so keep hands and eyes away or protected from whirling cutters and flying chips. Notes Although similar flycutters can be made to cut escape wheels, I prefer to use a slitting saw, making multiple cuts to form the teeth. Similar flycutters can also be made to cut ratchet wheels. While I understand that solid steel pinions may be cut with flycutters, I have not done so myself, preferring to use shop-made wheels to drive lantern 34 Horological Times July 2012 making flycutters, part 2 BY JOHN B. SHADLE, CMC pinions. Steel pinions must be cut at a much slower speed than brass wheels, using copious lubrication. To keep it simple I have assumed that the straight sides of the teeth which form the “dedendum” are parallel. In fact, they are radial to the center of the wheel, like the cuts in a pie. This difference is not important in the higher tooth counts of most clock wheels—in the 30 to 90 tooth range. When cutting wheels with fewer teeth—especially pinions—the sides of the teeth must be made radial, or the teeth will be club-shaped and weak. To do this, the position of the radius tool must be rotated the proper number of degrees, both left and right, when making the flycutter. This requires a compound tool rest which indicates degrees. For example, Figure 11 shows a setup with the radius tool angled to 6 degrees to the left and 6 degrees to the right of center. This is the inclination to use for a wheel with 15 teeth. This concludes the series on “Making Flycutters.” t Bibliography Davis, W.O. Gears for Small Mechanisms, TEE Publications, England. ISBN# l-857610156 Wild, J. Malcolm. Clock Wheel and Pinion Cutting, Arlington Books, USA. ISBN# 0-930163-13-3 Law, Ivan. Gears and Gear Cutting Workshop Practice Series, Argus Books, England. ISBN# 0-85242-11-8 Daniels, George. Watchmaking, Philip Wilson Publishers, England. ISBN# 0-85667-497-4 ©2000 All rights reserved by the author. Reprinted by permission of John B. Shadle, CMC. Editor’s Note: Previously printed in Horological Times, May, 2012 issue, page 10. Chronoscope X1 (G2) New Software Version 4.0 High Performance Tester for Mechanical Watches New: –– Test cycles in up to 10 measuring positions –– Test mode Chronograph with “Jumping seconds” –– Tolerance setting for the delta values –– Device for repair service and watch testing lab –– Screen captures in PNG format into USB stick –– Network compatible to the WiCoTrace database Distributed by: Horological Times July 2012 35 technical discussions BY RON LANDBERG, CW21 Archie Perkins: An Inspiration to Modern Horologists A rchie Perkins is truly an inspiration. Originally from Frances, Kentucky, Archie actually started out working in a mine. He repaired watches and clocks as a hobby and to earn extra cash, beginning when he was fifteen. After Archie was discharged from the Army, his first real watchmaking job paid around $20 a week. Several of Archie’s technical drawings. drawings on the cover of the March, 2012 issue of Horological Times. Besides the 1,500 technical drawings, Archie also produced over 2,000 pictures for his articles and books. That’s back during the time when photographs all had to be thought out, choreographed, developed and printed. You couldn’t just look at the screen on your camera, hit delete and snap out a dozen more shots, like we do now. Archie has since switched to the digital camera revolution, remarking on the fantastic results he now gets. Archie teaches a student about a Marine Chronometer early in his career. While attending the Elgin Watchmakers College in Elgin, Illinois, Archie developed an enduring friendship with William Samelius, Dean of the College. (As a side note, the W.H. Samelius book, Watch and Clock Information Please, is an excellent resource for the watchmaker.) Demonstrating a teaching aid for Bulova Accutron tuning fork watches. Archie also developed his remarkable technical illustration skills during that time. He has produced over 1,500 technical drawings for his over 300 articles. Archie sells signed copies of many of these drawings during NAWCC events, and may also have some with him during the AWCI convention in Denver this August. You’ll find an example of one of Archie’s To say Archie is a watchmaking educator is an understatement. Archie was an instructor at the American Academy of Horology in Denver and then at the Emily Griffith Opportunity School for 32 years where he received the Vocational Educator of the Year award. Even today, at local Denver NAWCC meetings, he passes along wisdom on all things horological. 36 Horological Times July 2012 Archie Perkins: an inspiration to modern horologists BY RON LANDBERG, CW21 he was “wheeling and dealing” for another lathe motor and stand, plus a nice staking set. There are four more books of his already in the works, the first of which is now being published by AWCI. You can look forward to Archie signing copies of this first book in the set, Antique Watch Restoration, Vlm. I, during the AWCI convention in Denver. Archie Perkins has achieved numerous industry titles and has received many awards. To me, personally, he is an inspiration who encourages me to be the best watchmaker I can be. t Viewing photos of the Elgin factory and school. At his mill used for cutting gears and pinions. Archie at the bench. In 1959 while teaching 6 hours a day, Archie opened his home shop; machining wheels, pinions and other watch and clock parts. Richard, his son, could often be found helping out in the shop. Work was bid by the job at that time, and Archie admits he should have charged more. However, watchmaking seemed more like a money-making hobby then, providing him with more skills he could use when teaching and writing. Archie contributed monthly articles to Horological Times for 25 years. He admits he learned a great deal from the disciplines of teaching and writing. Many of these HT articles are the basis for the two books already written, The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How To Use It, and The Watchmakers’ Staking Tool. These are also Archie’s favorite watchmaking tools, although you wouldn’t know it by looking at his incredible shop. At the last NAWCC mart Discussing blank and cutter-holding arbors. Antique Watch Restoration, Vlm.I, is currently being published by AWCI. Visit the AWCI convention, August 1-5th, to purchase a signed copy of the 318-page book. Also available on www.awci.com in August. Horological Times July 2012 Archie B. Perk CMW, FAWI, ins FNAWCC, FBH I V.I 37 affiliate chapter news AWCI Affiliate Chapter in Ohio Holds Annual Convention a speech regarding the Horolovar Company and the materials and services he offers. The Watchmakers/Clockmakers Association of Ohio’s 2012 Annual Convention: July 13 -15, 2012 at Carlisle Inn in Ohio Amish Country For more information, please contact Bill Miller, 740507-6040 or mrwatchmaker@yahoo.com or Mark Baker, 330-537-3939 or bakerclock@voyager.net The 66th Annual Convention of theWatchmakers/Clockmakers Association of Ohio (WAO) is just around the corner. AWCI would like to encourage you to make plans to attend. We feel the classes will fill up fast—so, as the saying goes, “The early bird gets the worm.” There will be dinner served Friday and Saturday evening from the Dutch Valley Restaurant (some of that good “Amish cooking”), next door to the Carlisle Inn. There are lots of things to see and do in the area including: Cheese shops, wine shops, antique stores, furniture stores, the Warther’s Carving Museum and much more. Take Advantage of Upcoming Chapter Events Watchmaker and Clockmaker Auction – Greensboro, North Carolina – July 15, 2012 The North Carolina Watchmakers Association (NCWA) is holding an auction for watchmakers and clockmakers in North Carolina. Doors open at 8:00 am and the auction starts at 11:00 am. The auction is a large event—typically drawing 500-600 lots in 4-5 hours with 80-120 registered attendees. The NCWA assists families of deceased watch and clockmakers by selling horological items that are no longer being used. It’s a fun event with a great cause to support! Contact Mack Shuping at 336-287-8402 for more information. The Carlisle Inn in “Amish Country” south of Akron, Ohio. The WAO has some excellent educational programs lined up this year with Jim Lubic, CMW21 presenting a class on “The Watchmaker’s Lathe.” Harvey Mintz will present a class on “Cleaning Pocket Watches.” Robert Miller, of International Dial Co. will inform everyone about his business of refinishing dials and about his new computer software, RepairTracker® 2000. We understand there will be a special price for those making a purchase of RepairTracker software at the WAO Convention. Chris Nimon will give Upcoming Texas Affiliate Chapter Meetings Southwestern watch and clock enthusiasts are invited to join the Capital Area Watch & Clockmakers Guild (CAWCG) in Texas for their upcoming Affiliate Chapter meetings. Their next meeting takes place on July 24, 2012. 38 Horological Times July 2012 affiliate chapter news Join CAWCG to network, learn and socialize with fellow horologists. Dinner: 5:00 PM – 6:00 PM, Program: 6:00 PM. Location: Pok-E-Jo’s Smokehouse, 2121 Parmer Lane (near Metric Blvd.) Austin, Texas. Please contact Jay Holloway, Secretary, for more information: jholloway@suddenlink.net. Recap of the 2012 Joint Convention Midwest Watch and Clockmakers Association and the Minnesota Clockmaker’s Guild Have Great Turnout On May 5, 2012 the MWCA - MCG Joint Convention was held at the Kelly Inn in St. Paul, MN. All MWCA Board members were in attendance, (Mark Purdy, CC21, Wes Cutter, CC21, Don Krueger, Tom Chase, CW21 and Stew Lelievre.) MCG members that attended were Richard Zielike, Susan Wood, Dean Ziegenbein and Jeff Pomeroy. The convention began with a talk by Doug Thompson, CW21, current AWCI president. He discussed: • • • • • • • Closing of the St. Paul College WOSTEP program and efforts towards a new program The possibility of an equipment auction of school equipment The NAWCC clockmaker school closing A summary of the current schools teaching watch repair The future of clock repair education A possible watch technician program at AWCI AWCI 2012 Annual Convention in Denver, Colorado, August 1-5th Gary Anderson gave a presentation on Hamilton pocket watches made for Minneapolis jewelers, as well as displaying several examples from his collection. He then took questions from the audience, and assessed several watches brought in for him to review. Stew Lelievre followed with a short talk on Dudley Masonic Watches and showed a vintage promotional film from the Hamilton Watch Company. convention and it seems the two organizations are benefiting from sharing activities and should continue. Rich Zielike (MCG Guild president) gave a recap of recent Guild meetings and plans for future meetings. Member suggestions were made regarding microtechnology programs and hands-on learning opportunities. Mark Purdy will be representing the chapter at the AWCI Annual Convention in August 2012 and will give a talk on business promotion ideas. The afternoon program was given by featured speaker, Andy Baron, on his restoration of the Maillardet automaton. The presentation also covered the Hugo movie and book and paper engineering. Door prizes were given out throughout the day and the meeting ended with a silent auction. Sales were roughly $2,300 with about 25 bidding cards sold. It was a “bring what you want to sell” event with clocks, watches, and parts as well as tools, books and miscellaneous associated repair items. Attendance was about 80 for Friday evening’s talk and roughly 38 on Saturday—an exceptional turnout! FUTURE MCG MEETINGS: August 2, MCG Meeting – Video – TBD September 6, MCG Meeting – Lathe Tune Up Tips To RSVP or for more information, please contact Secretary, Dean Ziegenbein - 952-322-4776 or via e-mail: dpz72@hotmail.com. President, Mark Purdy, noted this was the 3rd joint Horological Times July 2012 39 awci news BY AARON RECKSIEK, CW21 AWCI Event at JCK Show in Las Vegas N ow I know what you’re thinking, “Too many acronyms in this article’s title!” Believe me, as watchmakers/clockmakers, we deal with enough of them as it is. However, this one just might be something we all start to see a lot more of in years to come. What is JCK? The Jewelers Circular Keystone is a monthly magazine covering jewelry industry and luxury market issues and style trends. JCK, being a globally-recognized brand, is uniquely able to bring jewelry store owners together with manufacturers, suppliers, distributors, and the media to create the nation’s largest and most comprehensive jewelers exposition held annually in sweltering Las Vegas. With more than 2,500 exhibitors in 2012 and everincreasing attendance numbers, JCK’s footprint on the industry in unmistakable. Tom Schomaker, CMW21 and AWCI Watchmaking Instructor, presented six one-hour educational sessions. zation, as well as help guide attendees to the second location in the Watch Lounge. AWCI used this space to create specifically-tailored one-hour demonstrations presented by Tom Schomaker, CMW21, to educate watch and jewelry industry attendees on general topics such as: • • • • • Watch water testing Quartz watch testing and diagnostics Watch repair take-in procedures Battery replacement Quality controlling watch repairs JCK also assisted AWCI by lending our organization a professional sound and video system, large television monitors, and comfortable seating for the audience. Show officials also published daily schedules for the presentations in the show guides. They also provided large printed signs throughout multiple locations. I know this may not seem significant, but at an estimated cost of $30,000 worth of total support—and with many jewelry industry members seeing or hearing the name of our organization for the first time—this generosity is not to be taken lightly. We would like to thank JCK for everything they have done for us. It was standing room only for many of the educational sessions. Why should you care about JCK? The JCK Show has made generous commitments in helping AWCI gain more recognition among the industry. This year alone they donated almost 8 booths’ worth of space between two prime locations to AWCI and its sponsors. One location was directly at the entrance of the watch area which was used to promote the organi- The response from industry professionals was better than we could have hoped! There were 20 seats set up for these sessions and most seats were filled to capacity every session. During the show’s peak hours, there were as many as 30 additional people standing in the aisle to get the information, totaling about 50 people watching the session. Following the sessions, volunteers and AWCI sponsors were onhand to answer questions and offer products and 40 Horological Times July 2012 awci news BY AARON RECKSIEK, CW21 services. Our supporters reported a significant increase in sales and interest over past years. AWCI was able to acquire many more new membership leads in addition to reconnecting with past members who showed interest in rejoining. AWCI management also arranged for the company 808 Post & Production to record and edit the content almost immediately following the seminars. This allowed our organization to sell DVD copies produced at the show to many eager attendees, as well as making them available to our members at www. awci.com in the online store, (selling for $24.99 each or $89.99 for a set of five). This not only generates income for AWCI, but also helps set a higher standard of quality, knowledge and experience in the jewelry industry regarding our profession. Of course, an event like this would not be possible without the proper assistance from AWCI members, employees, and supporters. With the overwhelming increased traffic of people at our booths, it is essential to have experts from all aspects of our business to correctly assist and direct visitors to the proper outcome. Videographers taped the educaWhether it be store tional presentations now for sale owners looking to on the AWCI website. Go to: www. employ a watchmakawci.com and see the Online Store er and needing the for these DVDs. proper reference, or already-established repair shops needing information on the latest tools and equipment. We would like to acknowledge and thank our three major show sponsors: Jules Borel & Co., Sy Kessler Sales/Renata Batteries, and RepairTracker2000. Their presence and support boosted confidence and allowed for additional legitimacy for AWCI, its staff, and members. We would also like to thank the AWCI Industry Advisory Board for their sponsorship. Thanks to AWCI management and staff, Jim Lubic, Tom Schomaker, and Daniela Ott for dedicating countless hours making this event happen. Finally a big thank you to our show volunteers: Melissa Scho- The busy AWCI trade show booth helped answer attendees’ questions about the Institute and direct traffic to the educational sessions. maker, Gary and Jena Borel, Kyle Woolworth, Robert Miller, Bob Ingram, Norm Basch, and Shanon Recksiek. The opportunity to work with you all is invaluable, and what you do for the organization is immeasurable. With the future of the industry and our organization rapidly changing, we can take comfort in knowing that, with the support of Industry giants such as JCK, sponsorships from major brands, and continued devotion by AWCI staff and members, our organization is headed in the right direction. We may be on our way to becoming a household name among all in the jewelry industry. t An Overview of the JCK Show 2012: • Held annually at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas • Over 2,500 exhibitors from across the globe • Show experienced 21% increase in atten dance over the past 2 years • AWCI exhibit booth in Hall of Time plus educational area in Watch Lounge • Tom Schomaker, CMW21, presented one-hour educational sessions • Session attendance was as high as 50 participants • Copies of these sessions available on DVDs for $24.99 each ($89.99 for set of five) on www.awci.com in the Online Store A big “Thanks” goes to JCK, Jules Borel & Co., Sy Kessler Sales/Renata and RepairTracker 2000 for their support! Horological Times July 2012 41 education & certification Brand and Caliber-Specific Training - 2012 “This was a great class. As an AWCI member who has attended this course, I highly recommend it for any CW21/ CMW21 who regularly works on Rolex watches.” - Michal Blaszczyk, CW21 HAVE YOU SIGNED UP YET? It’s the education you’ve been asking for! > Improve Your Expertise on High Grade Timepieces > Increase Your Productivity and Profitability > Update Your Reference Library (New 100-Page Service Manual Provided) These courses will cover proficiencies such as: • Maintaining Factory Standards (Timing / Escapement / Lubrication) • Diagnostics and Repair (Barrel / Gear Train / Winding System / Calendar) • Dialing and Casing Procedures • Estimating and Quality Control • Case and Bracelet Refinishing and Repair These special classes (5 CEUs each) are offered only to CW21 and CMW21 AWCI members: Aug 27 - 31 - Caliber R3035 Sept 10 - 14 - Caliber R3035 Oct 15 - 19 - Caliber R3035 *Nov 5 - 9 - Omega caliber (guest instructor) 5-day block: $875.00 AWCI Academy of Watchmaking - 2012 Sept 17-21 Sept 24-28 Modern Mechanical Chronograph 7750/7751 (5 CEUs) Modern Automatic Watches (5 CEUs) 5-day block: $875.00 CW21 Exam Schedule - 2012 Aug 6-9 Aug 13-16 Oct 1-4 Dec 3-6 Lititz WatchTechnicum, Lititz, PA North Seattle Comm. College, Seattle, WA AWCI Training Facility, Harrison, OH OSU Institute of Technology, Okmulgee, OK Member: $1,695.00 Non-Member: $2,695.00 Please visit the www.awci.com website for information on classes and exams. SIGN UP EARLY! We reserve the right to cancel a class if there are less than six participants signed up 30 days prior to the first day of class, so we encourage you to wait before making travel or hotel arrangements until this deadline has passed. If in doubt, please contact Daniela Ott at 866-367-2924, ext. 303. TO REGISTER FOR CLASSES OR EXAMS, please call toll-free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303 or e-mail: dott@awci.com. 42 Horological Times July 2012 questions & answers by david christianson, cmw21, fawi QUESTION: Can you tell me about this watch? It belongs to a friend. I don’t see anything on the movement, but the stamp in the case lets me know it’s 16k gold. Richard Bunkelmann Kingman, Arizona ANSWER: Morris Tobias (1762/63-1846) was the first of three generations of the Tobias watchmaking family in England. M.I. Tobias (Myer Isaac) was part of the second generation. Myer was actually Morris’ adopted son, as well as his nephew. Myer worked with his father until he set out on his own in 1812. M.I. Tobias & Co. produced good quality watches in Liverpool. His shop was a finisher of Liverpool rough movements, not a primary manufacturer. He enjoyed a good reputation in America. Importation to America stopped by the end of the American Civil War when U.S.-made watches quickly took over the American watch market. During its 50-year history, M.I. Tobias & Co. produced nearly 45,000 watches. As with most well regarded watches, there were imitations and fraudulently signed Tobias watches, playing on the good name of Tobias. Most were Swiss bar-style movements, although there were also Swiss and English-made full plate and ¾ plate movements, usually signed M.J. Tobias or just Tobias. Your Swiss bar-style movement is one of these imitation M.I. Tobias watches held in a case signed as M.J. Tobias. It is an 11 jewel, key wind and key set move- ment made in Switzerland from an ebauche (rough movement) popular between about 1830 and 1875. The perception still exists that M.I. Tobias imported Swiss bar movements into England for his shop to finish and market, but Michael Edidin showed that this was not the case when he published his extensive research into the Tobias family of watchmakers in two installments of the NAWCC Bulletin in 1992. To quote Mr. Edidin: “All this evidence suggests that the Swiss Tobias watches are frauds, made by others who took advantage of the reputation and sale of English watches,” (page 692). He did, however, go on to say that “the many forged and fraudulent Tobias watches that were manufactured and sold are a backhanded tribute to the scarcity and the reputation of M.I. Tobias & Co. watches,” (page 544). Reference: Michael Edidin, English Watches for the American Market: A History of Watchmaking by the Tobias Families of London and Liverpool, Part 1. NAWCC Bulletin, Volume 34/5, Number 280, October 1992, pp. 515-544. Michael Edidin, English Watches for the American Market: A History of Watchmaking by the Tobias Families of London and Liverpool, Part 2. NAWCC Bulletin, Volume 34/6, Number 281, December 2, 1992, pp. 659-693. Send your Questions to Horological Times 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030 magazine@awci.com 866-367-2924 ext.307 Horological Times July 2012 43 questions & answers by david christianson, cmw21, fawi QUESTION: What I know about this watch is: It is a key wind, key set Repeater. The current owner says it was his grandfather’s, who was blind. Breguet’s name is on the porcelain dial face. Does this mean it was made by Breguet? Or does it have just his patent hairspring? Or some other technology created by him? It has a coin silver case. The last time it was repaired it was quite expensive. Any idea of the age? ANSWER: Mark Purdy, CC21 Hopkins, Minnesota Your watch is a very good example of a rather common Swiss repeating movement of the later 18th century. The porcelain dial is of the Breguet style with Breguet-style hands and the signature of “Breguet” beneath the numeral 6. Abraham-Louis Breguet was born in 1747 in Neuchatel, Switzerland. He apprenticed as a watchmaker in Versailles at the age of 15 (about 1762). We don’t know with whom he apprenticed or when he completed his study, but it probably was in 1767. We don’t know what Breguet did between the end of his apprenticeship and the start of his own watchmaking shop, a period of some eight years. But we can presume that he “journeyed” from one watchmaker to another, working for wages, gaining experience and honing his skills. He would not have had enough money to open his own workshop nor to enjoy the luxury of designing and building his own watches after coming directly out of his apprenticeship. In 1775 he appears to have started his own shop in Paris following his marriage and a nice dowry. By 1780 Breguet had established himself as a leading figure in French watchmaking shortly after he came to the notice of the King (a watch lover, himself). His designs and ground-breaking innovations in watchmaking eventually set the standard for the industry, but they didn’t mature until he returned to Paris after a two-year exile in Switzerland during the “Terror”, a two-year period during the French Revolution, following the collapse of the French monarchy during which the revolutionaries (“citizens”) persecuted those whom they thought were associated with the monarchy (1793-95). His detailed records of the watches he and his studio produced began in 1787 with watch number 1. Prior to his exile he was obligated to supplement his own original work with quite ordinary repeating watch movements which he imported from Switzerland and finished and cased in Paris. These movements were quite different than those he produced following the Revolution. In George Daniels’ words, “The reasons why Breguet used such movements is quite simply that they were produced in large quantities and were inexpensive. The movements made to Breguet’s own designs required special attention from the traditional skills of the component makers and were therefore more costly to produce. Breguet, in his earlier years, lacked the financial means to undertake such costly production and he was thus obligated to supplement his business with cheaper watches” that he hand-finished and adjusted to his own high standards. Many forgeries were produced in Breguet’s lifetime. To protect his reputation he developed a secret signature that he engraved beneath the figure 12 on 44 Horological Times July 2012 questions & answers by david christianson, cmw21, fawi enamel dials (flanking the figure XII on metal dials). Breguet took his son into the business in 1807 and from then on the dials carried the visible signature of “Breguet” or “Breguet et Fils.” Although Breguet did continue to make less expensive watches in his shop after the Revolution, he used ebauches (rough movements) made especially for him in Switzerland (using his own unique design) to supplement the very innovative watches to which he was and is so well known. The style of your movement would have been from a stock commercial ebauche that Breguet may have used prior to the Revolution. brought forward and entered into the books at a later date. Then again, there would have been a series number and signature on the movement.” I examined a fake Breguet movement a few years ago that was very similar to yours (made from the same ebauche) even with the same movement-holding lugs that yours has. The dial and hands looked convincing but the movement and its components were not finished as one would expect from Breguet’s shop during the time period that the dial signature suggests. I cannot tell such finish detail from your photographs but I suspect they are the same as what I examined in the movement that was so similar to yours. t From your photograph, the back plate of the movement appears to be finished like the common commercial repeaters of the later 1700s, not what one would expect of Breguet. However, George Daniels’ (Breguet’s biographer) says “of the many movements made before 1787, when the first sales book was started, very few survive. Except for their cases they show almost nothing of the potential ability and style that was to create the legend of Breguet. The survivors are distinguished by the curious fractional numbering system that he used before 1787 with an additional serial number.” An example would be 2833/88; meaning serial #283 was destined for completion in March of 1788. My sense is that your watch was not made in the Breguet shop and is a watch made by another to take advantage of the Breguet name and reputation. It lacks the fractional serial number on the back plate and Breguet would have activated the repeater mechanism by depressing the entire pendant rather than using a button on the rim of the case as yours is. Early enamel dials are signed Breguet in an elegant script. After 1795 the style changed and the signature is in Roman capitals, usually outside the chapter ring below the figure six as yours. But by 1795 Breguet was not using ordinary stock repeater ebauches as yours, unless he was finishing a movement started before this date. George Daniels explains by saying “with the commencement of the 1794 series, the style is uniform, the only exception being in early movements Horological Times July 2012 45 ads news classified industry business opportunity Watchmaking Business Opportunity - NJ PARTS - CIRCUITS - MOVEMENTS Including but not limited to calibers 201.001, 210.001, 950.001, 959.001. We also have parts for ETA, ESA, AS, FEF, FHF, UNITAS, FELSA and other calibers. bhswatch@gmail.com • (208) 676-8430 Take over successful watchmaker’s shop in Monmouth County, NJ. Over 50 years in business and now retiring. Take advantage of existing business and name by taking over the low rent. Start working immediately! Contact Joe for details. 732-890-1415 blco208@yahoo.com clock classes Watch Coordinator for After Sales Service, Highland Park, IL Need Watch Coordinator to manage all administrative tasks and communications related to the maintenance and/or repair of watches. This position is responsible for the management/flow of data, estimations, shipping, invoicing and product management through service centers (internal or external), customer service, and parts management. Minimum years of experience: 2-3 years preferred in a customer service oriented field. Watch knowledge and familiarity of the luxury watch industry preferred. Email resumes to tami@razny.com Watchmaker Needed for Shop in Sunrise, FL Montres Corum located in Sunrise, Florida is seeking a watchmaker. Must be proficient in all phases of mechanical and complex movements. Great opportunity to join a long established, fast-growing business. State-of-the-art equipment, very competitive compensation. Please contact Gerardo Ruz at gruz@corumusa.com (954) 279-1220 Clock Repair, Making & Designing by Laurie Penman Laurie Penman’s Correspondence Course has run since 1990. One-to-one tuition, 24/7 distance instruction and help by Internet and Skype. No time limit on individual courses. £550. Classes in the gorgeous English countryside. One student £800, Two £450 ea. Three £330 ea. Mid-day meal included. Details: laurie_penman@hotmail.co CW21 WATCHMAKER, TX CW21 Watchmaker with 10 plus years bench experience needed by well-known international firm. Located in Texas, we offer competitive compensation. Experience with various Rolex calibers required. Shop production driven by quality outcome. A rare opportunity for the exceptional watchmaker who thrives on rewarding bench work. Send response to: watchmaker.sought@yahoo.com. for sale Clockmaking & Modelmaking Books & DVDs by W. R. Smith, 8049 Camberley Drive, Powell, TN 37849. Phone 865-947-9671; www.wrsmithclocks.com Skilled Watchmaker – Monroe, CT HAMILTON ORIGINAL MILITARY MATERIAL Supplying original factory material for the Hamilton Model 21 Chronometer, Model 22 Deck Watch & Military 16 Size Watch Models 23, 3992B, 4992B and 2974B As well as much material for the 950B & 992B Railroad Watches. LARRY CRUTSINGER P.O. Box 8514 Norfolk, VA 23503 757-650-9470 E-mail: detent21@aol.com www.militarywatchmuseum.com Order On Line 24/7 We inventory 1000’s of keys, pendulums, dials, hands, bezels & dial pans, chime rods & gongs, clock chain & cable, cuckoo parts, clock glass, glass domes, fasteners, verges & wheels, barometer parts, Atmos style tools & material, ultrasonic cleaners, mainsprings, quartz & mechanical movements, electric movements, tools, products, batteries, books, suspension springs, clocks, cleaning solutions, lubricants, & more. Timesavers Box 12700 • Scottsdale, AZ 85267 • USA Phone: 480-483-3711 • Fax:480-483-6116 info@timesavers.com • www.timesavers.com Our 172 page illustrated catalog #37 is free online or only $5 in North America for a printed copy. AUCTIONS: DISCOVER THE SOURCE! in building a collection of clocks and watches or finding horological parts and tools for the trade. GORDON S. CONVERSE & CO. Consignments now accepted! 610-722-9004. • WWW.AUCTIONSATCONVERSE.COM Dashto Inc Established in 1974 Tom Mister Virginia Beach, Va Huge and ever-changing selection. Used and new horological items. Sold by internet only Check out our site: www.dashto.com or www.dashto.org TOOLS/EQUIPMENT/MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS POCKET/WRISTWATCHES/WATCH MOVEMENTS WATCH CASES & DIALS/WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES & MUCH MORE WE BUY AND TRADE ALSO: Dashto@cox.net SCHAUBLIN 70 LATHE Wheelcutting, indexing, grinding, centering microscope. All attachments, slide compound, lever feed tailstock, sets of collets, cutting tools and holders. 2 sets of wheelcutters, brass and steel stock. Photos avail. 765-282-6786. help wanted CW21 OPPORTUNITY, MADISON, WI Leading jeweler and only authorized Rolex jeweler and repair facility in Madison, WI., known for quality and philanthropy, seeks Century 21 (CW21) Certified watchmaker. Offers competitive compensation and benefits. Madison enjoys a moderate cost-of-living and was voted “One of the ten most livable cities in the US.” Contact John Hayes: 608-257-3644, john@goodmansjewelers.com. EOE Full-time Watchmaker Needed, South Houston, TX CW21 certification required for luxury independent retail store with competitive salary and benefits. Saturdays required. Email resume to: info@mylewisjewelers.com or call 281-332-8433 46 Victorinox Swiss Army is looking for a skilled Watchmaker at US Headquarters in Monroe, CT! The Watchmaker will be responsible for advanced repairs, technical training and mentorship of techs, and quality analysis. Will travel to Switzerland annually. Formal training and experience with complex movements required. Further info available at www.swissarmy.com, send resumes to hrdept@swissarmy.com. WATCH/CLOCK TECHNICIAN, TOPEKA, KS Time Lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 years experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service company. Must have certification or at least 5 years experience in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche industry located in Topeka, KS. Send resume and references to mattm@tmilock.com or fax to 785-232-2603. CLOCKMAKER – FULL TIME, SAN DIEGO, CA Looking for a clock repair person to work full time. Need someone to do in-house repairs, as well as some house calls. Busy shop works on all kinds of clocks, both Antique and Modern. Need experience repairing all kinds of clocks. Salary depends on level of experience. Call 760-480-6488. EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER, RHODE ISLAND Full time position for an experienced watchmaker to step into well established position/retail location. Located in Rhode Island. Must have experience with such brands as Tag Heuer, Rolex, Omega, Patek, and Cartier. Contact us at overstockgray@aol.com Watchmaker Wanted, Miami Beach, FL Brera Group LLC, in Miami Beach, FL is seeking watchmaker to perform thorough physical inspection, testing and diagnosis of incoming watches for After Sales Service. The watchmaker will perform all manner of repairs; maintenance, cleaning and or overhauls on watches received at the After Sales Service workshop and maintain a clean, neat, organized workshop, including the work areas, equipment and tools. Apply at info@ breraorologi.com or 305.604.6360. Horological Times July 2012 classified help wanted Repair | Restoration . situations wanted WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN 30 years experience Horology School Graduate Please contact John jbuerger25@yahoo.com Clockmaker Experienced seeking full time permanent situation. For more information contact AWCI at: adunn@awci.com, 866-367-2924, ext. 307. All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778 CW21 Seeking Full-Time in Midwest CW21 with 14 years experience is seeking full-time position preferably in the Midwest, PA or Western NY. Contact John: 724–272–8703 Watchmaker/Repair Technician Experienced w/ mechanical & quartz; PJC Horology Graduate. Looking for a position in the D/FW, Texas area. Please contact Will at: wmont65@aol.com ads Watch Parts Fabrication: I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 www.henningwatches.com Larry Blanchard, CMW21 At Palmer’s Jewelry 101 East Sycamore St., Kokomo, IN 46901 Phone (800) 207-1251 • Fax (765) 457-8517 E-mail: service@palmersjewelry.com Facebook.com/palmerjewelry Continuing with service of tuning fork Accutron, vintage American and fine Swiss watches. FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 • CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI www.fendley-cox.com MAINSPRINGS Clock and music box - All sizes. Custom made. Brass gear blanks. Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: twclock08@att.net HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH RESTORATION tradesmen Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and 505 Electric watches. René Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976, Phone (415) 924-6534 www.hamiltonwristwatch.com ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Watchmaker Needed - LIVE & WORK IN PARADISE Little Switzerland is one of the largest Caribbean-based retailers of fine jewelry and timepieces. We sell Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega, Cartier, Rado, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil, Movado and more. Must have completed factory training and certification by at least one of the following: WOSTEP, Breitling, Omega, Tag Heuer of Cartier. Full watch service facility located in St. Thomas, USVI. To apply, email resume to mcooney@nxpco.com. Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and watches. We have helped over 175 watchmakers in the last eight years to dispose of their accumulations. When you’re really ready to sell, we’re ready to buy! Phone (229) 928-9092 or (727) 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: jeffnancy@mchsi.com LASER WELDING REPAIR Reconstruction of watch cases, bands (gold and two tone), antique mountings, welding, cracked or broken clock arbors, hands and other metal parts. All aspects of jewelry repair. Joel Lefaive (520) 579-8668 THE SWATCH GROUP CANADA IS LOOKING TO HIRE SKILLED WATCHMAKERS Must have at least 5 years watch repair experience • Detail oriented a must • Good eyesight (July be corrected) • Aboveaverage sensitivity of touch • Patience for fine, continuous work• High level of cleanliness and tidiness • Good hand-eye coordination• High level of organizational skills PLEASE SEND YOUR RESUME VIA EMAIL: NINA.LE@SWATCHGROUP. COM OR FAX: 416-703-0797 OR MAIL: 1105- 555 RICHMOND ST. W, TORONTO, ONTARIO, M5V3B1, CANADA Experienced Watch or Clockmaker, Topeka, KS Time lock service company seeks technician with 3-5 year experience for full time employment in busy manufacturing/service company. Must have certification or at least 5 years experience in watch or clock service. Join the benchmark of this niche industry located in Topeka, KS. Send resume and references to mattm@tmilock.com or fax to 785-232-2603. Clock Repair, CA Looking for clock repairperson full time. Need someone to do in-house repairs, as well as some house calls. This is a busy shop working on all kinds of clocks, both Antique and Modern. Need someone with experience repairing all kinds of clocks. Salary depends on level of experience 619-884-6488. Horological Times July 2012 47 classified tradesmen BEARINGS We will install our patent pending ButterBearings™ in your chain wound movement. These bearings reduce friction by over 90% and come with a lifetime warranty. For details contact: Butterworth Clocks, Inc. 5300 59th Ave. W., Muscatine IA 52761 tel 563.263.6759 fax 563.263.0428 email butterworth@machlink.com ATMOS Service/Repair Warranty 2 Years Parts & Labor 877-437-1774/314-968-1010, Clockmaster, Inc. – Robert Good 2537 So. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, Missouri 63144 DENNIS KAYE DIAL REFINISHING BEFORE AFTER Quartz Conversions Diamond Dial Conversions Emblem & Name Personalization Write for Brochures INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. 58 W. SUGARTREE P.O. BOX 970 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 (937) 382-4535 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032; (253) 852-5125 Visit our website for more information www.specialtymetalsrefiners.com WANTED: USED SILVER OXIDE BATTERIES $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Le Coultre Vacheron - AP - Etc. Albena Jewelry & Watch Services All types of wrist and pocket watches repaired • Bezels and backs for all types of watches restored or made from base and precious metals • Watch cases, bracelets and links repaired or made from precious and base metals. Brooklyn, NY 718-998-3560 or 702-612-8111 Call Toll Free 1-800-208-2608 Specialty Metals Payout: $60/lb. and up for used silver oxide batteries. Free secured shipping & pickup. Payment issued immediately. You can DONATE all or portion of EARNINGS TO AWCI’S ELM TRUST as tax write off. For details contact: info@batterybuyers.com 800-764-7458 • www.batterybuyers.com Kundo Coil / Electric Clock Service Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com Entire Watch Collections Scrap Watchbands Gold-Filled Cases & Scrap Gold, Silver & Platinum Scrap wanted to buy Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts Paying for Valjoux 69,72,88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Movado 90,95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401, 1-866-877-8164, onceuptime@aol.com. Large Supply of Watch Movements & Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines WANTED! Service/Sales of Timing and Cleaning Machines Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster Over 14 years experience Quick repairs & reasonable prices www.timemachinerepair.com Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or service@timemachinerepair.com 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 888-363-9510 • 540-SERVICE Porcelain Dial Restoration Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock Platform Escapement Repair Atmos Parts & Service 400-Day Clock Repair ads 2490 Black Rock Tpke. Fairfield, CT 06825 203-366-2500 - Local 800-884-7966 - Fax sales@specialtymetalsrefiners.com Member: Jewelers Board of Trade Buying Gold-Plated Watchbands $20 lb. & Up! Gold-Filled-Even More! Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired). Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Polish Cloths, Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY 877-670-7799 info@watchbatterybuyers.com • watchbatterybuyers.com WANTED WATCH BOXES Buy - Sell - Trade We want most major brands. Also buying high-end jewelry brand boxes. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 WE BUY WATCHES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Modern or Vintage. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Top prices paid for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Established 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073 HAMILTON 505 BALANCE COMPLETES WANTED Paying $20 each. Must have good coils/hairsprings. Wornout contacts okay. René Rondeau, PO Box 391, Corte Madra, CA 94976. rene@rondeau.net. GetFor$60 lb—And UP! Used Silver Oxide Batteries Earnings can go to AWCI’s ELM Trust (if desired). FREE SECURED SHIPPING/PICK UP PAYMENT ISSUED IMMEDIATELY 877-670-7799 info@watchbatterybuyers.com • watchbatterybuyers.com 48 BUYING SILVER OXIDE BATTERIES (855) 243-8724 Will pay 2-times cost of silver per pound for your old silver oxide batteries. Recycle lithium watch batteries at no charge. Free shipping (label provided). We donate .1% of our AWCI earnings to the ELM Trust. www.globalbatterybuyers.com, info@globalbatterybuyers.com ROLEX PARTS WANTED Buying Rolex crowns, crystals and material, new stock only. Also buying Rolex watches, bracelets and movements any age. Call Paul at 978-256-5966 or e-mail Paul@pduggan.com Did You Know? Your AWCI membership includes: • • • • $2,000 no-cost accidental death & dismemberment benefit Comprehensive health insurance programs Discounted rates on credit card processing Personal property insurance programs Call AWCI for information: 866-367-2924 Classifieds Continued Horological Times July 2012 awci directory Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373 w w w. c r t i m e . c o m services We also fit glass crystals to Openface, hunting, and English chain drive watches. Complete watches, dials, movements, case springs for sale G F Specialties 1-800-351-6926 P.O. Box 170216 Milwaukee, WI 53217 www.gfspecialties.com Repair | Restoration All Brands · Warranteed Work · Free Estimates Mention Code HT2011 and Enjoy 15% Off chelseaclock.com | 800 284 1778 ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE ADVERTISER’S INDEX Borel & Co., Jules (816) 421-6110 inside front cover Butterworth Clocks, Inc. (563) 263-6759 ...................................... 25 Cas-Ker Co. (513) 674-7700 ............................... 6 & 10 Chronos/WJR (303) 296-1600........................................ 17 Eckcells (800) 514-1270 ....................................... 20 Energizer energizer.com ........................................ 22 Greiner Vibrograf greinervibrograf.ch ............................... 31 Livesay’s, Inc. (813) 229-2715 ......................................... 19 Magnum Power Products (480) 205-2193 ...................................... 45 Renata (800) 527-0719 ..................... back cover Watch Around watch-around.com ............................... 29 Witschi Electronic Ltd. 011 32 352 05 00 .................................... 30 INDUSTRY ADVISORY BOARD Phone: 800-541-5494 Fax: 800-341-8373 w w w . c r t i m e . c o m Movado Group Inc. SWISS WATCH SERVICE GROUP, INC. Horological Times Advertising Policy The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher July, at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. They will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles July also be used without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci.com or the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Dr. Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI • 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 awci@awci.com • www.awci.com Electra Steam We are Factory Authorized Service for: • Greiner VIBROGRAF • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 Used Equipment Bought & Sold For Information (415) 479-8960 www.electronicinstrumentservice.com WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the Institute and the industry. Simon Golub & Sons, Inc. Need to find parts and repair tips? Join our online forums: www.awci.com PTRC Inc. Horological Times July 2012 Richemont 49
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