Color+Cosmetics - Natural Products INSIDER

Transcription

The Art of Color+Cosmetics
A SPECIAL ALL-DIGITAL ISSUE
VOLUME 1 ISSUE 4 October 2012 US$39.00
The Art of
Color+Cosmetics
From fall’s earthy and rustic shades to summer’s
exotic and luminous tones, each season is filled
with a complementary and sundry palette of color,
which translates into trends, new technologies
and innovations in the color cosmetics space
that span global territories and, finally, land in the
hands of beauty consumers.
ContentS
A SpeCiAl All-digitAl iSSue
Volume 1 iSSue 4 october 2012
Features
4
Top Color Trends for 2013 ..................................................4
Beauty Q&A Spotlight: Benefit Cosmetics ...................10
The Full Data Palette of Color Cosmetics ....................13
22
Beauty Q&A Spotlight: BABOR ...................................... 22
Makeup as an Extension of Skin Care .......................... 25
25
10
How Makeup Transcends the Global Market .............. 29
29
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SupplySide CoSmetiCS inSightS • the Art of Color+Cosmetics digital issue 2012
2
cosmetics.supplysideinsights.com
editor'sletter
A Catalogue of Color
As fall is ushered in and we begin the descent into the
close of 2012, cosmetic counters around the globe will be
peppered with a palette of seasonal colors and New Year’s
trends. This month, SupplySide Cosmetics Insights is all
about color … cosmetics.
Yana Grammar explores the top color cosmetics trends for
2013, while Shawn Towne, global educator for jane iredale,
dives into the emerging trend of creating makeup with skin care
benefits. If you’re looking for regulatory guidance, Angela Diesch,
an attorney with Greenberg Traurig LLP, gives a straightforward
checklist of questions you should be asking when entering the
multifunctional makeup skin care market. Other topics include
market data on the many color cosmetics segments, how
makeup transcends global markets and beauty Q&A spotlights
with cosmetic companies.
Come see us next month at SupplySide West in Las Vegas,
Nov. 7 to 9. We have a great education track lined up, including
presentations on sustainability, fragrances, nutricosmetics and
more. It’s a wonderful opportunity to hear smart and insightful
conversations about the beauty industry, connect with peers and
colleagues, and maybe win a round or two of blackjack.
See you in November.
Alissa Marrapodi
Cosmetics Editor
amarrapodi@vpico.com
IN THIS ISSUE
Color Trends p.4
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Q&A Spotlight: Benefit Cosmetics p.10
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Table of Contents p. 2
2013trends
top Color
Cosmetics Trends
for 2013
Industry Leaders and Brand Innovators Weigh-In
on the Hottest Trends for the Upcoming Year
by Yana Grammer
As 2013 steadily approaches, color cosmetic companies are already
working on new products based on future trends and predictions for the years
ahead. It used to be that trends originated from celebrities or fashionistas, and
we would look to the runways to predict the newest colors for spring, summer,
fall or winter. Now that we are all connected through social media and the
Internet, fresh ideas are made in real time. Trends that start globally in Milan,
Hong Kong or New York can be translated instantly to trendsetters all over the
world. This instant gratification in how what’s new is viewed carries with it a world
of contradiction because so many factors influence how we think, feel, dress,
communicate and relate. Leading industry experts sum up the contradictions,
look into their crystal balls and give the top ways color cosmetic brands can help
consumers enhance their beauty and individuality in the New Year and beyond.
1
ClassiC Cool Colors
Cool tones are back for 2013. While red and black will always be part of
the color palette any time of year, interpretations of these classic colors will
be at the forefront of what’s trending next year. Bright, deep, beautiful red lips will
continue to be the norm; but now, red will be found in totally unexpected places.
Deep, chromatic, almost blue-reds mix with pearlescent pigments to create
metallic reds that can be used in eye shadows and eyeliners. Black, the long time
go-to for eyeliner and mascara is now infused with silver or gray mica for multidimensional color that’s sleek silver—not down-market sparkle. Cool, dark blue
IN THIS ISSUE
Editor's Letter p.3
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2013trends
is on point for the eye area as a variation on classic black; and anticipate
dark blue for nails as this old classic becomes fresh again. Brands that
breathe innovation into the old classics like blue, red and black will be
trend winners in 2013.
2
Category-speCifiC CosmetiC Kits
Cosmetic kits have always been hot and a much sought-after
accessory when it came to makeup application. Saving both time
and money, a no-brainer for busy girls on the run, cosmetic kits were a
“We saw a surge
of boxed makeup
sets which carried
eye, lip and face
products in one
during 2011 and
2012; but going
forward in 2013,
category specific sets
one-stop shop, offering a full color palette for eyes, lips and face. In 2013,
we see a new direction when it comes to cosmetic kits, Toni K., founder
and creative director of NYX Cosmetics sums it up, “We saw a surge of
boxed makeup sets which carried eye, lip and face products in one during
2011 and 2012; but going forward in 2013, category specific sets such as
eye shadow only or lip color only is trending.”
3
paCKaging With purpose
Companies that are striking it green continue to make a presence
and eco-friendly packaging makes an even louder statement in
2013. Taking advantage of creative ways to use packaging to communicate
natural positioning like sustainable materials, natural ingredients and
recycled packaging, companies are using materials and shapes like never
such as eye shadow
before. Material innovation is being driven by consumer desire to be more
only or lip color
plastics to come down as more investment flows toward their development
only is trending.”
- TONI K.,
founder and creative director,
NYX Cosmetics
eco-conscious. Many industry experts are expecting the costs of bioand production capacity. Toni K. agrees the Packaging With Purpose
trend is here to stay. “Packaging made with recyclable materials is a hot
trend,” she said. “This is most apparent through EU’s decision to convert
allowance of the use of PVC material to PET only.”
4
natural ingredients for faCe
Toni K. predicts the desire for using natural and/or organic
cosmetics will become more widespread; however, the actual
purchase and use depends on the category. “For instance, people are
more concerned with ingredients for foundations or face powders than eye
shadows or lipsticks, so they are more likely to be less discerning with
their purchase of the eye and lip products.”
IN THIS ISSUE
Editor's Letter p.3
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2013trends
A perfect example of this is the new bareMinerals conversationstarting campaign, to champion its award-winning foundation franchise
and the launch of its first-ever solid bareMinerals Ready SPF 20
Foundation. Rooted in the brand’s heritage of speaking to its all-natural,
mineral-based foundations as a closer relative to skin care than makeup,
this campaign introduces the idea that “foundation” has become a
dirty word thanks to cakey, pore-clogging formulas that have given
the category a bad rap, instituting fear in women who are relentlessly
seeking the solution to flawless skin.
The campaign helps posit that bareMinerals Ready SPF 20
Foundation doesn’t look or feel like a foundation, offering skin care
benefits along with long-wearing coverage. The campaign titled “We
Don’t Like Using the F-Word” aligns with the brand’s desire to challenge
the status quo while offering a unique perspective on what bareMinerals
Ready SPF 20 Foundation can do for the skin.
5
multi-funCtional CosmetiC produCts
According to a new report by The NPD Group Inc., BB creams—
multifunctional products that combine the functionality of primers,
SPF and moisturizers with the anti-aging benefits of skin serums, and
that are also referred to as blemish balms or beauty balms—have grown
significantly in sales in the past several months. The relatively new
product category is quickly catching the fancy of a small segment of
U.S. women, and in the 12 months ending March 2012, BB creams sold
in U.S. department stores generated close to $9 million according to
NPD BeautyTrends.
Women tell NPD while they expect BB creams to provide skin care and
makeup benefits, they want to understand more about the product and
how it works. According to NPD, about eight in 10 beauty shoppers like
beauty products that offer multiple benefits, and that rises to more than
nine in 10 for BB cream purchasers. The top five benefits expected from
a BB cream include: natural-looking coverage (52 percent), moisturizes/
hydrates skin (47 percent), nourishes/treats skin (42 percent), provides
SPF sunscreen protection (42 percent) and improves skin texture
(38 percent).
IN THIS ISSUE
Editor's Letter p.3
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2013trends
Toni K. also sees the demand for multi-purpose and multi-functional
cosmetic products like BB creams on the rise for 2013. “There is a surge
in consumer demand of tinted moisturizer and BB creams that contain
sun block, moisturizing ingredients and foundation all in one,” she said.
“This clearly shows people want the most benefits from their beauty
product while also offering ease in use. Consumers are becoming more
discerning and savvy so they want products that save time and money.”
it’s little wonder
among marketers that
an important new
buzzword eclipsing
the traditional “point
6
soCial media expansion
Social shopping sites and widgets constitute the next evolution
of the shopping blog. Combining the authenticity and passion
of consumer-generated content and editorial with the added capability
for a brand to distribute its own content such as video or Web-based
information, these sites offer the product for sale at the moment of
recommendation. It’s little wonder among marketers that an important
of purchase” is the
new buzzword eclipsing the traditional “point of purchase” is the new
new concept of “point
content on the Internet enjoy adding widgets and shopping applications
of recommendation.”
Consumers who blog
and create content
on the internet enjoy
adding widgets
concept of “point of recommendation.” Consumers who blog and create
to their sites as a “cosmetic enhancement” to their content.
Social media has an incredible impact on trend forecasting, according
to Toni K. “It’s a powerful medium that shares what’s new, cutting edge,
hot off the runway, etc.; so not only brands but consumers are quick
to react, and don the color and style. It has resulted in a proliferation
of fashionistas and beauty gurus who are able to share their unique
styles, thus inspiring others to be creative and express themselves
and shopping
through fashion and beauty. Not only are we seeing celebrities wearing
applications to their
the hottest and newest clothes, accessories and makeup looks, but
sites as a “cosmetic
enhancement” to
their content.
also non-celebrities via blogging and vlogging. The impact is powerful
and our society as a whole is more in tune and expressive of their
unique style. The greatest impact is the ability to share through social
media, which allows people to have more inspirations from peers thus
empowering through connections with others that were limited to the
faces and characters in magazines, TV and movies in past decades.”
Smaller, independent brands are also using the power of social media
to gain market share, create buzz and set themselves apart from the
IN THIS ISSUE
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competition. Kali Sharp, founder of EyeDoll Chatter, a new cosmetic
brand geared toward the tween/teen market, uses an interactive model
that really sets her brand apart from others in the teen/tween category.
“Our interactive iPhone/iPad app allows customers to select the cosmetic
scents and colors that they are wearing, and it posts those selections to
Beauty marketers
seeking to leverage
these exciting
Facebook and Twitter, or they can text their friends; it’s truly interactive.
Our customers (‘EyeDoll Girls’) love the fact they can personalize their
makeup by combining our scented cosmetics with our colors. They
can create Bubble Gum eye shadow and wear that with Cotton Candy
blush and Root Beer lip gloss. It’s such a fun and unique experience
new trends should
for the tween and teen market.” Kali sites her background in creating
pay special
apps in the digital space along with her sister’s expertise in cosmetics
attention to social
media, interactive
applications and
social shopping sites
in particular.
as her motivation for starting the brand. But the real inspiration behind
EyeDoll Chatter is the increasing activity that tweens and teens continue
to exhibit on social networking sites. Kali said, “Tweens and teens are
increasingly active on social networking sites such as Facebook and
Twitter. Research shows on average they send more than 3,000 text
messages per month. That’s a huge opportunity to stay connected to this
demographic because we know tweens and teens love products that can
be personalized and shared via social networking.”
Beauty marketers seeking to leverage these exciting new trends
should pay special attention to social media, interactive applications
and social shopping sites in particular, as they represent the best
opportunities to take full advantage of the changing face of the beauty
industry through electronic media.
■
Yana Grammer is a product developer and marketing consultant
to the beauty industry with more than 16 years of experience
bringing industry-leading skin care, hair care and cosmetic brands
to market. She offers a creative, hands-on approach to the product
development process – breathing innovative products to life from
inception throughout the entire product lifecycle. Contact her at
YGrammer@gmail.com.
IN THIS ISSUE
Editor's Letter p.3
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1,500+ booths and
1000’s of innovations
from around the world
Be a part of it.
supplysideshow.com
Attend SupplySide West to Explore, Discover,
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EXPLORE. DISCOVER. INNOVATE. MARKET.
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#SSWExpo
Q&A
with Benefit Cosmetics’ eVp
of global marketing
Julie Bell
by Alissa Marrapodi
BENEFIT COSMETICS® was founded in 1976 as a San Francisco makeup boutique, The
Face Place, by the Ford twin sisters. While the name was changed to Benefit Cosmetics
in 1990, it has not changed its focus, and has mastered the art of combining humor and
makeup. That the popular Benetint was created after an exotic dancer asked for a “nipple
stain” shows this upbeat and playful brand has serious character. So who better to ask a
few questions to about creating a brand with personality than the brand with a personality?
Q:
Colors, aesthetics, packaging, graphics, type fonts, etc.—all of this plays into
creating a brand’s personality. How can a cosmetic brand use these features to create a
personality that not only resonates with its customers, but builds a loyal fan base?
Benefit: Benefit has been successful because we have stayed true to ourselves and are
truly one of a kind. Benefit focuses on problem solving by offering instant beauty solutions
that put a smile on your face. We want our customers to have a unique experience when
they use our products. To create a personality, we believe what’s on the inside is equally
as important as the outside.
Our aesthetic inspiration comes from every day conversations and observations. Over
the years, we have collected modern and vintage pieces for inspiration. We have vintage
mannequins, compacts, posters, handbags and lots of old magazines. For our packaging,
we use modern and cutting-edge art mixed with a dash of humor. We like to say that we
embrace every era with a nod to the past and a jump start to the future. The duality of
bold but girly imagery and tongue-in-cheek humor captivates our customers and builds a
loyal fan base.
IN THIS ISSUE
Color Trends p.4
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Color Cosmetics p.13
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Q:
Similarly, how can cosmetics companies talk her language (perhaps
via packaging, ad campaigns, etc.) so she can “get to know” the brand and
what’s she’s all about?
Benefit: The Benefit culture of fun and laughter is understood and
embraced from culture to culture. The Benefit gal, whether she lives in Paris,
New York, Hong Kong or Dubai, is very cross generational. Even though our
core customer is in the 20 to 40 age range, women of all ages are drawn
to Benefit because of our unique approach to beauty. Our customers were
and continue to be so diverse. They have different backgrounds, different
stories and different lives. Some are mothers, some are daughters, some
are grandmothers. There is a Benefit gal that lives in all of us!
We reach our Benefit fans by being fun and approachable, and relating
to them on a personal level simply by putting a smile on their face—
whether it’s through our creative packaging or our thought-provoking,
traffic-stopping visuals. We also connect with them through social media
by keeping content fresh and relevant, and always thinking about what
our fans and followers are hungry for in the digital space (beauty tips and
tricks, SF style photos, behind the scenes scoop). We adapt to the everevolving social space (i.e., Pinterest and Instagram) to reflect the Benefit
brand, provide additional content and continue the relationship beyond the
in-store experience.
Q: Next is what’s inside. How does a brand create a personality with
the products/formulations themselves (e.g., foundation, eye shadow, lip
tint, etc.)?
Benefit: The single most important thing when creating a product is to
start with a “need.” Every new product must fill a need for our customers.
The challenge is coming up with something that is completely original.
For most products, our inspiration comes from our day-to-day life. Any
situation or conversation can give us an idea for a new product. We speak
with our customers … we find out what they want.
IN THIS ISSUE
Color Trends p.4
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We were inspired to create our newest brightening liquid foundation,
hello flawless oxygen wow, out of a need in the marketplace for a
hydrating liquid foundation that could provide natural-looking, buildable
coverage with SPF protection; and boy did our customers thank us!
Q: Most cosmetics lines are created with a specific goal or message in mind.
How does a brand communicate its goals/message through its personality?
Benefit: Co-founders Jean and Jane Ford started Benefit with the goal
of making women feel good about themselves; and we’ve done just that
for more than 35 years. It’s important for us to give our customers a fun,
interactive, feel-good experience with our products. Our goal has always
been to create quality products that deliver results, but also make you
smile and feel confident. In fact, our Benefit brand motto is, “Laughter is
the best cosmetic … so grin and wear it!”
Q: Cosmetic brands can have fun with this idea of creating a personality.
What are some fun campaigns, products, displays, etc., that Benefit has
used to express itself to its customers?
Benefit: At Benefit, it’s all about the fun-factor! There are no rules and
we love to push the envelope. Our two star products, they’re real! mascara
and the POREfessional primer, both have visuals that embody the Benefit
spirit and explode the brand DNA.
They’re real! features our seductive “Honest Leah” who swears that
ALL of her “assets” are real, including her lashes. The POREfessional is
such an all-star primer we needed an action-hero to bring the product to
life. SpyGal is her name and zapping pores is her game.
Q:
What advice would you give to brands just starting out?
Benefit: Your customers are everything. Look to them for inspiration! ■
IN THIS ISSUE
Color Trends p.4
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colorcosmeticsdata
the Full data palette of
Color Cosmetics
by Alissa Marrapodi
FROM FALL’S EARTHY and rustic shades to summer’s exotic
and luminous tones, each season is filled with a complementary
and sundry palette of color (and products) across the cosmetics
counter—shadows, liners, blushes, lips, nails and more.
According to The NPD Group, prestige makeup sales within U.S.
department stores grew within the first half of 2012 by 8 percent,
making this category worth $1.8 billion.
nail it
The nail segment may be the smallest segment in makeup, but
it’s experiencing the largest growth of all prestige makeup. In the
first half of 2012, the category grew 68 percent, according to The
NPD Group. Color enamel grew 70 percent, nail care 36 percent
and base/top coats more than 100 percent. “Fun shades and
colors like neons and metallics, along with funky textures and
decals have added to this growing trend,” said Karen Grant, vice
president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group.
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Q&A Spotlight: BABOR p.22
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colorcosmeticsdata
Nail expert and Custom Nail Solutions’ president and founder,
Katie Saxton, said the top six hottest nail trends this autumn are:
• Double Reverse French Manicure: Featuring a dark color
(such as black) painted at the tips of the nails, with the
rest of the nail covered in a soft shimmer or clear polish.
•
Black and Gold Nail Wraps by OPI: “These wraps are fast,
easy to apply and long-lasting,” Saxton said. “It is a very
dramatic look that is great for evening.”
•
Sally Hansen Magnetic Nail Color: 3D isn’t just hitting the
silver screen; it’s hitting the nail aisle, too. With several
colors to choose from, two coats, a magnet and a top coat
are all you need for a little dimension.
•
Burgundy Nail Polish: “A very elegant polish that is the
‘go-to’ color this fall season,” Sexton said.
•
Matte Polishes: “A matte top-coat takes away your nail
color’s shine and gives even the girliest polishes an edgy,
modern look,” Saxton advised.
•
Complete DIY Nail Customization: This truly is all about
her. She can create any shape, length and color sans
salon. “Rather than paint the nails one solid color, a huge
trend will be decorating the nails to express one’s artistic
ability, as well as show off one’s unique interests,” Saxton
said. “This can mean painting the nails with intricate
designs like tribal art, or decorating them with words and
characters from favorite movies and television shows.
Nails will become one’s artistic easel for a new kind of
self-expression.”
Adding in a little texture … butter LONDON took runway
fashions—sequins, tweed, velvet and satin (oh my!)—and made
them the next-best-thing in nail. It infused its autumn/winter 2012
line with glitter particles, and metallic and holographic finishes.
Its color palette may be reminiscent of fall foliage, but less earthy
with more rust, shimmering greens and silvers.
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colorcosmeticsdata
BirchBox’s Beauty Pulse Survey, including more than 10,600
respondents, found some nail trends may be seeing some tough
love this year. When survey respondents were asked which trend
they wished would go away, 22 percent said nail art. On the other
hand (no pun intended), status nail is garnering some popularity,
as 22 percent named it one beauty trend they’re most excited
about. Even more interesting, and perhaps surprising, is more
than 40 percent of respondents (across all regions) said they
would “totally” wear neon nails to work (21 percent said “No way,”
neon nails are never appropriate for work). The most affirming
trend appears to be gels, as 60 percent of respondents said they
are willing to try a gel manicure.
eyes: shadoWs, liners and masCara
From midnight’s smoky eye to sunny Sundays’ navy eyeliner,
the eyes are makeup’s perfect palette for adding texture, mood
and purpose. In 2012, mascara and eyeliner emerged as two
of three products most used (the other being foundation), with
75 percent of women respondents (n=1,020) reporting they wear
both products, according to Mintel’s Color Cosmetics – US –
July 2012 Cosmetic Usage. This trio also shows promise in
bundling if beauty companies are looking to capitalize on
in-brand purchasing. However, the hot “always wear” product
out of the three is mascara. “Women are more likely to report
‘always wearing’ mascara than they are to report ‘always
wearing’ other eye makeup products,” according to Mintel’s
Color Cosmetics - US - July 2012 Eye Makeup. “Younger
women, aged 18 to 34, are more likely than their older
counterparts to wear these products at all, and to wear them
every day.”
Like two peas in a pod, with high usage comes an increase in
sales. The NPD Group reported eye, which accounts for 28 percent
of makeup sales, increased 5 percent in dollar sales, generating
more than $512 million. Sub-segments Mascara (+6 percent),
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colorcosmeticsdata
Eye Liner (+11 percent) and Eye Brow (+17 percent) all showed
growth. All Other Eye declined by 8 percent and Eye Applicator
was flat.
“Consumers continue their desire to play with color, and
accentuate and define their eyes,” Grant said. “Underlying these
trends is one consistent element—they have the lowest price
points in the prestige marketplace.”
What do women want most out of their mascara? The NPD
Group said thickening/volume and lengthening, with more
than six in 10 mentioning each benefit. Anti-clumping was next—
56 percent rated this important—followed by defining and
waterproof (or resistant). According to Mintel, from October 2010
to November 2011, 53 percent of women aged 18 and older who
wear mascara (n=8,057) said they wear regular mascara,
48 percent wear waterproof and 32 percent wear water resistant.
One thing Mintel did note is household income has little impact
What do women
on the brand of mascara used.
When it comes to eye shadow and liner, powder and crayon/
want most out of
pencil are the leading types of eye shadow/eyeliner/brow pencil
their mascara?
used. Guidance-liners, and cream and liquid liners, which are all
relatively new products, reported lower use, according to Mintel.
Again, the bundle effect may work with shadows, too. Mintel said,
“Offering combination eye shadow/brush packages could be a
way to promote product lines, as some 53 percent of eye shadow
wearers report applying with a brush (compared to 38 percent
who use whatever comes with the product).”
faCe it
Face, which includes everything from foundation and blush
to concealer and powder, is the largest segment of prestige
makeup, according to The NPD Group. It accounts for 49 percent
of dollar sales and reported a 7-percent growth in dollars from
last year, with almost 30 million face products sold in department
stores, totaling $891 million.
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colorcosmeticsdata
According to BirchBox’s Beauty Pulse Survey, when asked what
level of coverage the respondents wear: 28 percent said a full face
of foundation, 22 percent said mineral makeup, 22 percent said
tinted moisturizer, 15 percent said beauty balms (BB creams) and
18 percent said they wear nada. When broken down by age, the
highest use of a “full face of foundation” was reported in the under
21 group (32 percent) and older than 61 group (33 percent).
“While foundation is still popular, BB creams and mineral
makeup are gaining popularity,” BirchBox said. “The 20 and under
age group uses BB creams most often, while 21 to 50 year olds
are more likely to use mineral makeup.” However, even though
BB creams may be on the rise, 40 percent of those surveyed said
BB creams “baffle them.” Mintel reported 24 percent of women
respondents said they wear BB creams, and 7 percent said they
“always wear” BB creams. The research firm also noted that
BB creams, along with bronzers and primers, have the greatest
growth opportunity.
And, for those still in favor of traditional foundation, you will
be happy to know there are still plenty of you out there. When
broken down by region, “Every geographic region except the
Northeast prefers full coverage, with 30 percent of respondents in
the South and the West going out with a full face of foundation,”
BirchBox noted. What the ladies are looking for, according to
The NPD Group’s Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report 2012, is if
their foundation “evens out skin,” with more than three-fourths of
foundation users citing this as an important benefit. Next benefits in
line are SPF protection, moisturizing and oil-free/won’t clog pores.
Mintel’s research confirms BirchBox’s findings, as 69 percent
of women (n=1,202) said they wear foundation and 41 percent
“always wear” it. Breaking it down a little further, liquid foundation
appears to be the favorite, with 56 percent of foundation-wearing
respondents (n=8,132) citing it as the type of foundation makeup
they wear; while loose powder and cream are worn by just more
than a third. “Respondents aged 18 to 24 are those most likely
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colorcosmeticsdata
to use loose powder as well as powder cream/cream-to-powder,
as younger women are more experimental with the products
that they use,” according to research conducted by Mintel and
Experian Simmons from October 2010 to November 2011.
“Furthermore, these younger consumers are coming of age at a
time when a wider variety of types of products are available and
as such are more accustomed to having more choices available.”
if you’re
wondering
what brand is
her favorite,
mintel says,
“CoVeRgiRl®
has a hold on
young women.”
A total of
37 percent of
women who
wear foundation
If you’re wondering what brand is her favorite, Mintel says,
“COVERGIRL® has a hold on young women.” A total of 37 percent
of women who wear foundation makeup (8,269) said COVERGIRL
is their brand.
Taking face products one step further is the introduction
of makeup with skin care benefits. If there is one beauty trend
consumers are demanding more of, this is it. The NPD Group’s
2012 Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report found more than eight
in 10 women use makeup products with skin care benefits.
Additionally, 61 percent of women said they use makeup products
with benefits similar to those found in their skin care products. It’s
true. Companies such as Veil and Juice Beauty have introduced
a concealer and a pressed powder packed with ingredients that
boost skin health.
“ Beaut y brands are seeing the value in multitasking
ingredients,” said Ameann DeJohn, founder of Ameann|Solutions.
“These multifunctional ingredients are providing powerful
makeup (8,269)
results and allowing brands to streamline their marketing story.
said CoVeRgiRl
multiple benefits and real results that enables them to use one
is their brand.
Consumers appreciate the ability to find creams that have
product instead of three.”
The NPD Group said the top two sought-after benefits in all
makeup products are moisturizing and SPF protection. “It can
be said that makeup products with skin care benefits create a
perception of ‘more bang for the buck,’ and consumers may believe
they are getting more value,” Grant pointed out. “As such, it could be
inferred that women perceive additional value from layering.”
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colorcosmeticsdata
CheeKy
Blush has bloomed into a whole new concept of texture and
color. The introduction of cheek stains and cream blushes have
taken the traditional pressed powder and given it a new purpose.
The NPD Group reported blush, a sub-segment of the face
category, grew 7 percent in first half of 2012 (January to June).
According to Mintel, ladies like their blush. Sixty-five percent of
women respondents said they wear blush and 34 percent “always
wear” blush. Add a little “metal” to that blush, aka a bronzer, and
only 40 percent of women respondents said they wear a bronzer
and 18 percent “always wear” a bronzer.
lip JunKie
Women are lip product junkies. They can’t get enough!
BirchBox’s Beauty Pulse survey reported 90 percent of women
had at least two or more lip products in their purse at that
moment. In fact, lip is the third largest makeup segment in U.S.
department stores, ringing in almost $305 million in first half of
2012, according to The NPD Group, noting its 8 percent growth
(January to June 2012).
Mintel’s research also confirmed women’s affinity for lip
products, as 71 percent of women respondents said they wear
lip gloss, 71 percent said they wear lipstick, 47 percent said they
wear tinted lip balm and 33 percent said they wear lip stain.
Top Two Most Important Lipstick Benefits:
74%
68%
women said
moisturizing
women said
long wearing
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19
■
colorcosmeticsdata
Top Two Most Important Lip Gloss Benefits:
65%
women said a
glossy finish
64%
women said
moisturizing
Source: The NPD Group’s Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report 2012
The hottest three lip sub-segments were: Lip Color (+10 percent),
All Other Lip (+54 percent; multi-functional lip products, lip
moisturizer, etc.) and Lip Applicator (+9 percent), according to
The NPD Group’s BeautyTrends®, while Lip Gloss and Lip Liner
both increased 3 percent. The top three best-selling prestige lip
stick sellers (according to dollars sold) were: MAC, Lancome
L’Absolu Rouge and Lauder Pure Color Lipstick. According to
Mintel, her top 10 favorite brands are: CoverGirl, Revlon, Avon,
Maybelline, Clinique, L’Oreal, Mary Kay, Wet ‘n’ Wild, Burt’s Bees
and Estee Lauder.
Where lip products are really booming is overseas in Europe.
According to Companies and Markets’ Lip Care Product Market
report, Europe is dominating the global lip care products market,
estimated to reach US$1.9 billion by 2017. One big contributor
to this predicted growth is the fashion industry, as well as
trends, new product introductions, rising consumer interest and
disposable income.
the hoW and the What?
According to Mintel, there are a few things women don’t know,
one of them being how to apply makeup. Twenty-four percent of
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colorcosmeticsdata
women respondents said they don’t know how to apply makeup.
“Instructional videos on quick and easy makeup application
that can be accessed through on-package QR codes and
in-store displays could encourage purchase, with the promise
of additional resources to help guide the user in the home,” the
research firm advised.
While you’re providing instructional, how-to videos, you may
want to send a sample to go along with it, as 81 percent of
trends such as
BB creams and
women who wear makeup at least occasionally (n=950) said a
free sample is an influential factor when choosing a new makeup
product or brand. Next up is a coupon/rebate/special offer, with
multi-functional
76 percent of women citing this incentive as influential on their
makeup have
purchasing decisions. Where incentives really play a role is the
enabled
companies to get
creative while
meeting her needs
and demands.
launch of a new product. “When looking at the range of makeup
types used by the sources users turn to for product information,
those who use newer-to-market products, such as bronzer,
primer, BB cream, lip stain and tinted lip balm, are more likely
to report a range of items [such as free samples, coupons,
recommendations from friends and family, etc.] influence their
product selection,” Mintel said. “This underscores the importance
of adopting a broad spectrum of techniques to encourage
consumers into product adoption.”
The comprehensive color cosmetics category is experiencing
healthy growth and innovation. Trends such as BB creams and
multi-functional makeup have enabled companies to get creative
while meeting her needs and demands. It will be interesting to
see where these trends stand in a year and what further product
concepts have been introduced into the marketplace.
■
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21
■
Q&A
with BABoR international’s
makeup director
Peter Schmidinger
by Alissa Marrapodi
FOUNDED IN 1956 by Michael Babor, BABOR International has been
globalizing its natural, patented approach to skin care—hydrophilic
natural cosmetics with BIOGEN® and the facial cleanser with
hydrophilic oil via HY-ÖL®—for more than 60 years. What BABOR has
mastered is the art of blending skin care with color makeup. Enter Peter
Schmidinger: In collaboration with BABOR, Schmidinger—who started
his career more than 20 years ago in Germany, and was the stylist for
Nicole Kidman in Moulin Rouge, as well as other celebrities such as
President Bill Clinton and Heidi Klum—helped create BABOR’s new
makeup range Face Design.
Q: Where is this demand for skin care benefits in your makeup coming
from? What are the driving factors?
BABOR: The skin care aspect was, of course, essential for BABOR
as a leading brand in skin care. Having a makeup that is “just” color
wouldn’t fit the skin care standards of the brand. Together we developed
a unique product line, one that “takes care” of the woman who puts
it on. This knowledge has helped me to create a makeup line that
contains products of high quality, are easy to handle and produce
excellent skin caring results. Nourishing the skin is one of the
most important aspects of the BABOR makeup line. Sea fennel extracts
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Extension of Skin Care p.25
■
22
regenerate, vitamin E effectively protects from free radicals, and
lupine oil regenerates and protects the skin barrier. The amino
acid complex L-PCA gives additional moisture.
Q:
Similarly, are these products fulfilling a need or creating a
niche in the marketplace?
BABOR: Skin care is getting more and more important even
for color cosmetics! Modern women are looking for a product
that combines beautiful colors and skin care in one product.
That is why the FACE DESIGN COLLECTION offers protection,
treatment, regeneration and color all in one.
Q:
W h at fo r m u l at i o n c h a l l e n g e s a r e a s s o c i ate d w i t h
multi-tasking makeup?
BABOR: It is quite a challenge to put so many highly effective
ingredients into a makeup without changing its consistency,
texture or color. Every tiny alteration in a cosmetics formula
affects the whole product. That is why makeup that unites color
and skin care is a masterpiece of beauty engineering.
Q: To skin care or not skin care: What are the perks of creating
makeup with skin care benefits?
BABOR: It is like the icing on a cake having this special skin care
treat for your skin. And you really feel the skin care components
of the FACE DESIGN COLLECTION pamper your skin as soon
as you put it on.
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23
Q:
From ingredients to the final product—be it a mineral
makeup or foundation, concealer, blush or eye shadow—how are
ingredients selected and how is the final product’s function paired
with those ingredients?
BABOR: We monitor international trends in fashion and lifestyle
very carefully while working with an international agency from
Paris specializing in cosmetic trends. In addition, we included
colors that I always longed for during my 20 years of experience,
as I feel they can give a face a special glow or the eyes a brilliant
yet mystical expression. First we sat down with R&D and they
told us which active ingredient would fit this makeup line the
best, and they started developing the lifting complex. After this,
we did dermatological tests and I tested the products myself in
my academy in Munich, where I tested how they are to work
with. I wanted to have products that are beautiful in color and
easy to use.
Q:
What ’s the future of the categor y, including trends,
challenges, innovation, etc.?
BABOR: The future is all about convenience. Forget two-in-one
products—the future is all about five-in-one products that are
easy to handle and have a great effect. Plus, they need to be
“green”, meaning their ingredients should be from sustainable
sources and so should be their production.
■
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skincare
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Complete Face:
makeup as
an extension
of Skin Care
by Shawn Towne
BETWEEN THE YEARS 150 AND 200 A.D., a Roman physician named Galen
discovered that by mixing melted beeswax, olive oil and rose oil with water, he
could hydrate and soften the skin. Commonly known as the first formulation of
cold cream, its simplicity and purity would likely be a top seller in today’s market.
More consumers are seeking simpler, yet effective, formulas in their skin
care, and spend significant time and money to care for their skin through
professional and at-home care. It is only recently, however, that the same
attention has been applied to makeup, where traditional formulas can not
only aggravate skin concerns instead of improving them, but also cause
them. Makeup has been the Cinderella of facial care until now.
Fortunately, consumers have learned to demand more from their products
and this is changing the way makeup is formulated in major ways. It isn’t
enough to simply advertise “hypoallergenic;” consumers want benefits. Thus,
in the last two decades, a whole new breed of makeup has entered the
market. Previously, makeup was something women put on in the morning and
washed off as soon as they could because they suspected it was not good
for their skin. Now, a new generation of safer, cleaner and even therapeutic
formulas has emerged. Some cosmetic companies have even built their
names on providing nothing less than makeup that is good for the skin. A
good example of this is mineral makeup.
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Global Market p.29
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25
skincare
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
With the introduction of mineral foundations in 1994, women
benefited from a weightless formula that provided superior
coverage and did not create heavy buildup. They could wear it
all day for sun protection and beautiful coverage without worrying
about clogged pores, toxicity or irritation. Even better, skin looked
healthy and natural. Mineral makeup was first classed as a fad
and then a trend. Ten years later, it moved into mainstream where
it has had lasting influence on the cosmetics industry.
The success of mineral makeup inspired the industry to
accept color cosmetics as a serious contributor to skin care. A
new breed of products known as cosmeceuticals saturated the
market. Women have learned to include the dermatologist’s office
and spa as well as the department store in their search for the
perfect cosmetic. Makeup not only has the ability to complement
skin care, but is the perfect vehicle for delivering antioxidants and
vitamins to the skin. Liposome technology, for example, can turn
liquid, cream and gel foundations into effective skin care as they
deliver hydration and anti-aging benefits to the skin. Makeup with
sun protection is particularly effective since makeup is the last
thing put on the face and, therefore, can be touched-up easily to
continue sun protection throughout the day. Women have learned
that meaningful broad-spectrum sun protection is possible in a
compact powder. Some of today’s dosage forms, such as mineral
powders, have allowed women with chemical sensitivities to wear
sun protection for the first time.
A true mineral-based product can be applied immediately after
a microdermabrasion or a light peel so there is no downtime. It
will not only cover redness, but it will help to calm erythema from
treatments. It is important to replace the stratum corneum that
has been lost after these kinds of procedures because that is the
body’s first defense against the sun.
New technology continues to make innovation possible.
BB cream, made popular first in the Far East, has become the new
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Global Market p.29
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26
skincare
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
trend in hybrid skin care makeup. Its origin as a post-procedural
healing balm with significant coverage made it an ideal product
for today’s consumer. What women love about BB cream is its
the old days,
we used to say
ability to multi-task. Many formulas deliver hydration, refinement,
skin brightening, sun protection and antioxidant value in one easy
application. What skin care therapists love is that their patients
statistics prove that
are continuing home-care by aiding the health of their skin with
if someone likes
the makeup they choose rather than undoing all the good work
something she will
tell six people; now,
of course, those six
people can easily
be 600 or more
accomplished in the treatment room.
As a global educator for jane iredale, I’ve found the most
effective marketing is through word of mouth. Nothing beats
getting the right products on a client’s skin. In the old days, we
used to say statistics prove that if someone likes something she
will tell six people; now, of course, those six people can easily
be 600 or more at the touch of a button. So it isn’t enough to
hope that she tells a few friends, a brand must make it possible
at the touch of a
for consumers to interact with each other through social media.
button. So it isn’t
A brand’s transparency is crucial to its credibility and goodwill.
enough to hope
that she tells a few
friends, a brand
Throughout the world, the same need to publically express
satisfaction or dissatisfaction exists.
Consumer endorsement has propelled mineral makeup to the
fastest growing segment of the cosmetics industry and makeup
will continue to become an important part of a good skin care
must make it
regimen. As consumer demand for greater performance grows,
possible for
we can expect to see more innovation and a wider variety of
consumers to
options that provide beautiful coverage and color, in addition to
increasing benefits for the skin.
■
interact with
each other through
Shawn Towne is the global educator for jane iredale – The
social media.
Skin Care Makeup. He has been a working makeup artist for
25 years. His career with jane iredale has taken him all over
the United States and to Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia and
South Africa.
IN THIS ISSUE
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Global Market p.29
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27
skincare
Is Your Makeup Also Skin Care?
Are You Sure?
by Angela Diesch
THERE IS A GROWING TREND in the cosmetic industry for companies wanting
to tap into consumers’ desire to have healthy younger looking skin while wanting to
simplify their beauty routines. To this end, more cosmetic companies are developing
multi-functional makeup with skin care benefits. As these products increase in the
market it is likely we will see powder makeup applications and liquid foundations
touting claims for increased hydration, line filling and age reversing capabilities.
No matter how well intentioned, companies should recognize and appreciate
the risk of litigation. In particular, a lesson may be learned from the recent class
action litigation facing the cosmetic industry over natural and organic claims, as
well as actions against the food industry regarding products’ health benefit claims.
Whether you view these issues as a hyper-technical approach tying the marketers’
hands, rather than false advertising, the fact remains class actions against cosmetic
companies are on the rise. And, it is not just the plaintiffs’ bar turning its attention to
cosmetic companies; FDA and district attorneys (at least in California) are also taking
a strict approach to enforcing false advertising laws regarding ingredient claims.
Accordingly, cosmetic companies entering the multifunctional makeup skin care
market should take a critical look at their marketing and labeling. In doing so, a few
questions should be asked:
•
Does the research support the claims?
•
Does the amount of active ingredient(s) in the product upon which the claim is
based justify making the claim, e.g., good source claims, antioxidant claims?
•
Does the claim benefit the consumer or is it really just a benefit to the product,
e.g., vitamin E as a preservative compared to its antioxidant characteristics
for the consumer?
•
Does the claim appear applicable to the entire product or just certain
ingredients in the product, e.g., natural and organic claims?
Of course, you may have heard this before—that’s because it’s good advice.
Spend the time and money to evaluate and seek advice now, rather than litigate later.
Angela Diesch is an attorney with Greenberg Traurig LLP and part of its Products
Liability and Mass Torts Practice. Diesch assists cosmetic clients in a variety of
areas including claim evaluation and litigation.
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Global Market p.29
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28
globalmarkets
how makeup
transcends the
Global Markets
by Alissa Marrapodi
SIMILAR TO THE WORLD of fashion, makeup trends and
influences (including packaging, colors and formulation) are
swapped, shared, borrowed and started in and among multiple
global regions, more specifically North America and Europe, as
well as Asia. To debate and discuss these influences, MakeUp
in New York, held Sept. 12 to 13, 2012, brought together makeup
insiders from Stila and Strand Cosmetics to B.Kolormakeup &
Skincare and Geka.
It is said in order to predict the next conceptual trend (in color
and style) just look back eight years, a.k.a. the eight-year long
circle, as the trends are similar every eight years. Regardless,
makeup has seen many faces throughout history—from porcelain
skin with hints of pink during the 18th and 19th centuries to a
move away from white skin to new colors during the “glamorous
years” from 1920 to 1945 and the boom of makeup as a self
expression of art circa today.
prestige and ethniC marKets
The United States was trailing behind the European market
with regards to sales on luxury lines, but that is shifting. What’s
interesting to note is, from the consumer’s point of view, makeup
trends start in the United States. An example of this is instant
beautification. Europeans learned this from U.S. consumers and
it’s quickly becoming a way to promote both makeup and skin
care. In fact, prestige is now moving toward this trend, looking a
lot at instant beauty.
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Contacts p.33
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29
globalmarkets
design spotlight:
LipSense
®
What happens when you combine color with staying power? A really good lip
product. This month’s design spotlight is LipSense®, created by Joni Rogers-Kante.
You may be familiar with her brand, as celebrities like Christiana Aguilera are big
supporters; but its staying power is what caught our attention (it lasts up to 12 hours
after one application), as it is rivaled by few, if by any at all. The waterproof,
non-wax, liquid lip color formula does not smear, rub off, kiss off or feather.
What’s in it? The primary ingredient, SD alcohol 40, delivers color to the skin,
but does not strip the lips of moisture. It immediately evaporates from the skin
upon the delivery of the technology and is germ- and bacteria-free, eliminating
contamination. Other ingredients are: Paeonia suffruticosa (Moutan) root extract,
Hypericum perforatum extract (St. John’s wort), Tilia cordata flower extract and
Isodonis japonicus extract.
Texture and Gloss: Every color is offered with a choice of texture: matte, sheer
sparkle or frost; the final touch, restorative glosses are available in glossy, matte,
glitter or pearl.
North America is also the export platform for the ethnic
market (versus Europe); however, all territories and regions are
always scouting new trends, so adaptation to ingredients from
all over the globe is very prevalent. One ethnic trend that is
billowing globally is beauty balm (BB) creams. First popular in
Asia, BB creams are making more than a splash in the global
cosmetics market. What’s helping spur and drive this crossover
is social media, as consumers are able to continuously and
constantly exchange feedback, no matter their location. But the
question remains: Is there such a thing as a universal makeup
product? This is a big debate. Some say yes; others say no.
Others say it’s not a question of if there is one, but rather there
are many interpretations of a universal product. However, from
a formulation point of view, clients still require very specific
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Contacts p.33
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30
globalmarkets
formulations due to climate, skin color, etc. For example, U.S.
clients request a glow, whereas Asian clients request whitening.
This concept may be better understood when using mascara as
an example. The consumer’s regional location is directly tied
to her lash demands. Asians like straight lashes; where U.S.
consumers like long and volumized lashes, which not only leads
to formulation differences, but the need for different geometries
of the brush itself. Environment also plays a major role, as dry
or humid climates will require different formulations, too.
To rEAd MorE about tools and accessories for mascara,
blush, eye shadow, etc., application, check out October’s
discussion on makeup tools and accessories on our
SupplySide Community
Color
North America and Europe have similar focuses on color
usage, formulation, pigments, etc., as color trends really
cross over worldwide and transcend to where the consumer is
located. Both regions have a greater request for quality versus
quantity—safer, more natural formulations and also “something
new.” To the “something new” end, skin care built into makeup is
becoming a first choice, and color a second choice, as there is
a definite trend toward problem-solving products.
On the flip side, clients don’t have the same requests in
Europe as in the United States. U.S. clients prefer fun, shiny and
sparkly colors; whereas European clients ask for colors related to
clothing—colors tied closely to fashion and fabric.
IN THIS ISSUE
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Contacts p.33
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31
globalmarkets
Consumer Preferences in the U.S. vs. Europe*
UNITEd STATES
EUroPE
➡ The Look: Dramatic
➡ The Look: Natural
➡ Packaging: Drives the first buy;
formulation drives the second buy.
➡ Packaging: Drives the first
and second buy; Europeans
want it to look good.
➡ Innovation: Interested but
formulation and packaging
are more important
➡ Innovation: Interested but
function is more important
➡ Performance: Prefer
formulation over packaging
➡ Performance: Prefer
packaging over formulation
* Per a consumer panel
innovation
Many agreed North America is more innovative; but, no matter,
innovation is one of the most important aspects cosmetic firms
can offer. When addressing makeup, both color trends and
formulation function are important; but, anti-aging, antioxidants
and wrinkle reduction are driving innovation and scientific
development. Both North America and Europe are interested in
innovation, but from different points of view; however, both care
about the ease of use, including packaging.
The U.S. market values practicality. It isn’t wooed by
aesthetics, but instead it holds the “show me” mentality. You can’t
fake it with pretty packaging; the product has to work, but that
doesn’t mean it has to be expensive.
When looking at Europe versus North America, consumers are
very brand specific; so Lancôme may have a die-hard following
in Europe, where as Clinique may have strong loyalties in North
America. One point that was stressed was companies don’t want
to innovate just to innovate; they want to innovate for the consumer.
Lots of products came out that were too complicated and
sophisticated, which caused a lot of confusion among consumers.
As Asian trends such as BB creams move West, and skin care
and makeup move closer to becoming one, the global cosmetics
market will continue to be a shape-shifter that not only strives to
meet the needs of beauty advocates, but serves as a platform for
smart, trend-setting technologies and products.
■
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Contacts p.33
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32
supplysidecosmeticsinsightscontacts
SupplySide Cosmetics Insights is a comprehensive destination site where cosmetic, personal
care and cosmeceutical companies find premium content, video, digital magazines and reports
centered on understanding how new ingredients, processes and formulations fuel the most popular
cosmetic categories, including skin care, anti-aging, beauty products, sun care and more.
About
VIRGO is a leading information distribution company that has delivered relevant content to
key business markets since 1986. With 20 brands including leading magazines and websites,
tradeshows/conferences, online communities, training and accreditation programs, and more,
VIRGO continues to provide integrated media solutions to several industries, including
self-storage, medical, health and nutrition, and communications.
Director of Sales & Business Development
Jim Wagner
(480) 990-1101 ext. 1123
jwagner@vpico.com
Vice President,
Marketing Services Danielle Dunlap
Cosmetics Editor
Alissa Marrapodi
(480) 990-1101 ext 1325
amarrapodi@vpico.com
Advertising Art Director Matt Courter
Marketing Manager
Melissa Berglund
(480) 990-1101 ext. 1699
mberglund@vpico.com
Reprint Manager Jennifer Thompson
jthompson@vpico.com
(480) 990-1101, ext. 1170
Art Director,
Health & Nutrition Andrew Rosseau
Media Operations Manager
Melissa Budwig mbudwig@vpico.com
(480) 990-1101, ext. 1522
Vice President, Health & Nutrition
Jon Benninger
Group Editorial Director
Heather Granato
VIRGO Publishing, LLC
Chief Executive Officer John Siefert
Executive Vice President/CFO Kelly Ridley
Controller Jennifer Janos
Vice President,
Human Resources Heather Wood
Published by VIRGO Publishing, LLC
3300 N. Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85012
Phone (480) 990-1101 • Fax (480) 990-0819
Website: www.vpico.com
33

Color+Cosmetics - Natural Products INSIDER

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