CHEF! IssuE 28
Transcription
CHEF! IssuE 28
Published by Shout Factory Publisher Jason Whitehouse - Tel: 021 556 7493 Fax: 086 617 4740 Advertising Sales Jason Whitehouse jason@shoutfactory.co.za Editorial Sarah Marjoribanks sarah@shoutfactory.co.za Design & Layout Shout Creative - Peter Batistich peter@shoutfactory.co.za Jeanle Casarin jeanle@shoutfactory.co.za Printing Remata Images Christoph Hoffmann Lelani van der Merwe Chef! is published bi-monthly by Shout Factory on behalf of the South African Chefs Association The South African Chefs Association University of Johannesburg, School of Tourism & Hospitality Tel: 011 482 7250 - Fax: 011 482 7260 info@saca.co.za - www.saca.co.za President Stephen Billingham General Manager Graham Donet p u b l i s h i n g Finance Manager Connie Butler Communications Mercia Lampen Events Manager Nicholas Sarnadas Membership Administrator Jason Pitout Disclaimer Shout Factory makes no representations about the accuracy of the information, data, advertisements, graphics or other content contained in any Shout Factory owned online platform, e-mail newsletter or print publication, including but not limited to the Shout Factory print and online magazine, blogs and other email newsletters, and any other media channel owned or produced by Shout Factory. Content produced by Shout Factory may from time to time include technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. Statements on product or service quality, price or other features are only opinions and should not be relied on as guarantees nor as offers for sale. For the full disclaimer notice, please visit http://shoutfactory.co.za/print-media/ SACA Patrons TM Eat better. Live better. CHEF! Issue 28 | 1 4 19 Contents Foreword Interest 3 A letter from SACA President Stephen Billingham. 33 Free-From Menus 34Trends for the Year Ahead 36 The first in our series on beverage solutions, aided by Ciro Beverage Solutions. News 4 Items on interest, issues and happenings in the culinary world. Q&A 8 In this new feature, we find out the answers to questions you might not have known the answers to. Flavour of the Month 23 44 10 Foodie news, information and interesting produce from around the country. 14 Chef Bertus Basson takes MacAdams’ TEDDY™ mixer for a trial run. Career 16We speak to Chefs Neill Anthony and Jon Belinsky about their careers as private chefs. Chef Profile 17 A chat with Executive Chef of Cape Town’s Convention Centre, Peter Robertson. 18 Madame Zingara’s Richard Griffin talks to us about how he got started. 20 SACA announces their newly signed patronage deal with Lucky Star. Training 59 22 A visit to Prue Leith Chefs Academy in Centurion. 24Unilever Food Solutions announces their Sauce of Inspiration Winner! Good Spirits 39Ryan Duvenage looks at High Ball Cocktails 40 Freshly squeezed orange juice seem like a hassle? Take a look at the Zumex machine. Food Feature 42 An extract from Reuben Riffel’s new cookbook, Reuben Cooks Local Masterclass 46 Chef Jodi-Ann Pearton shows us how to make gnocchi 56 A look at the many nutritional benefits of Alpro Soya products. SACA Pages 50 A look at Team SA’s Edward Clegg, the first in our series on Competitions, a chat with WACS Chef Hákon Már Örvarsson from Iceland, news from the Academy of Chefs and a Q&A with SACA Director Kabelo Segone. Wine World 58Debi van Flymen looks at sweet dessert wines. Wine Estate 59 A closer look at Wildekrans Wine Estate in Bot River. Interest Opinion 26Tips for Successful Entrepreneurship 28 Synergy Grill 30Labour Brokers: An Opinion 32 Competition: A report-back on the Nestlé Golden Chefs Hat winners’ trip of a lifetime 60 Brian McCune’s takes on the heartfelt doodles written on bills. Last Word 61 A Quick Chat with Tanja Kruger from Makaron Restaurant. Dear Friends, Colleagues and Sponsors, 2011 was an exciting year for us for many reasons but the National Youth Chef Training Programme run in collaboration with the Department of Tourism was, for me, one of the most important undertakings of the year. This programme culminated at the beginning of this month in the graduation of 2011’s students and I was so proud to see so many young lives change for the better because of this unique skills development programme. Of the 800 learners that started a year ago, 717 completed the course, 75% passed, 35% passed with merit or distinction and 180 have already attained entry-level positions in South Africa’s kitchens. The programme has now been extended with further funding from the National Department of Tourism and will commence in May, with 300 of last year’s successful learners going forward to study the advanced course and 500 new entries starting the course. This will again take place in all 9 provinces and I’m extremely excited to work again with the project management team, now headed up by Thomas Overbeck. The beginning of the year not only sees the beginning of our new programme, but also the first step that many young students are taking to become chefs. Whether you are studying at a school or working as an apprentice in industry, remember to study hard and to embrace the opportunities that you have been given by your parents or sponsors. Ensure that you respect your uniform, recognise its history and remember to honour those who’ve come before you. It goes without saying that you should respect yourself, those around you and all chefs that are more qualified and experienced than you. On behalf of SACA, I wish you the best of luck with your studies this year and hope that you will study hard and achieve good results. From the 1st to the 5th of May SACA will be in South Korea for the WACS Congress – for those who would like to attend, please contact the office for further information. The South African delegation that is going across is attending in more than just an educational and networking capacity, but also to bid to host the 2016 WACS Congress in Johannesburg. We are launching this bid in partnership with the City of Johannesburg, Jo’burg Tourism and Sandton Convention Centre, and if successful this would be the second time we’ve hosted the Congress, the first being in 1988. Hopefully we can bring 1000 Chefs to the City of Gold, carry on in the tradition of the Bidvest World Chefs Tour Against Hunger and show them South African hospitality. We are proud to announce the recently signed patronage of Lucky Star, bringing the total number of our patrons up to 9. I’m looking forward to working together with this dynamic company for the next three years and into the future, and together we can do a lot to educate and enlighten South African Chefs. hope to see many of you at our stand at Hostex, taking place in Cape Town from the 15th to the 17th of May. I’m sure many of you know that this is a not-to-be-missed event so I hope we can count on your support! Culinary Team SA is holding practice lunches on a monthly basis this year in the run up to the Olympics in October, so please support them by booking your spot at the lunch. Culinary Regards, Stephen Billingham For and on behalf of the Board of Directors and Regional Chairpersons “Sell a man a fish, he eats for a day, teach him how to fish, you ruin a wonderful business opportunity.” By Karl Marx CHEF! Issue 28 | 3 Chef Profile News News In Memoriam As we were putting the magazine into layout and heading to print, we received the news that two prominent members of the South African Chefs Association and beloved chefs and leaders had passed away. Chef Christina Martin, well known as the owner of Christina Martin School of Food and Wine, passed away on Monday the 5th of March and Gordon Tuckett, one of the founding members of the Academy of Chefs, passed away a few days later. “It is a sad time for the South African hospitality industry – these two legends did so much for the progression of chefs in South Africa and will be greatly missed. It was an honour to have known them and my condolences go to Gordon and Christina’s families,” says Stephen Billingham, President of the South African Chefs Association. In our next issue we will pay tribute to these leaders in the industry. Good Food and Wine Show set to Wow Cape Town The Good Food and Wine Show is an important one on the Cape Town Foodie Calendar, so much so that Cape Town Tourism has made it their official Winter event and including special packages to the city for visitors. This year’s Cape Town leg takes place from the 24th to the 27th of May and has an impressive number of celebrity Chefs lined up including Reza Mahammad, winner of Masterchef America Season One Whitney Miller, celebrity Chef Ariana Bundy and Cake Boss Buddy Valastro. Attractions include the Chefs in Action Theatre, Get Fresh with BBC Hands On Workshops, Foods around the World Theatre, MTN VIP Lounge, the popular Lindt Chocolate Appreciation Theatre, Regional Cocktail Championships and more. Culinary Team South Africa will be practising their competition dishes in front of a crowd before they jet off to the Culinary Olympics in October. New innovative attractions include ‘The Art of ’ where artisanal food producers will demonstrate how they make their products, and Dining in with Knorr where visitors will be hosted at long tables headed by experts on either side who will demonstrate how to create the perfect party using Knorr’s new products. Visit www.thegoodfoodandwineshow.co.za for more information. 4 | CHEF! Issue 28 UJ Food and Wine Evenings A monthly treat for food-lovers, the University of Johannesburg’s School of Tourism and Hospitality holds a regular food and wine evening. The next one will be held on the 30th of March and will feature Middelvlei wines which will be paired with a number of courses. Priced at R265, the food and wine evenings fill up quickly so booking is imperative. The wine estates to be featured for the rest of the year include Jordan, Simonsig, De-Toren, Morgenster, Ken Forrester, Bilton Wines, Mooiplaas and Neil Ellis. For more information, phone (011) 559 1141/2 or email sthreception@uj.ac.za. Fat Cow Training School opens in Durban With a name like the Fat Cow Training School, it’s certainly going to be grabbing attention! Durban’s new training facility is based in Morningside, and is geared up for informal handson workshops as well as part-time chef training. Behind the scenes are Chef Warwick Thomas, Dayle Dohne and Alexandra Blair. Fat Cow Training School specialises in City & Guilds Courses, Kids Cooking Classes, Team Building, Interactive Cooking Classes, Singles Evenings and Hens Parties. For more information, visit www.fat-cow.co.za or email dayle@fat-cow.co.za. The school is based at 33 Churchill Road in Morningside, Durban. Russian Standard Vodka launched in South Africa Matthew Gordon joins Laborie Laborie, the Wine Farm in Paarl, has a newly launched restaurant – Harvest. And for Chef Matthew Gordon to switch his allegiance from Franschhoek to Paarl, you know it has to be quite a special restaurant. Delicious dishes on the menu are contemporary South African with produce sourced from the Paarl region and many herbs snipped from the restaurant garden. The family-friendly restaurant seats 80 inside and 100 outside on the terrace (overlooking the vineyards). For more information visit www.laboriewines.co.za. Russia’s number one vodka, Russian Standard, is now available in South Africa. It is the only wholly Russian vodka as it uses Russian ingredients, is distilled and bottled in the country, and has been named by key sources in the beverage industry such as IMPACT, Drinks International and IWSR as one of the fastest growing premium spirits brands in the world. Russian Standard Vodka is distributed in South Africa through partnership with ABV Brands. It’s suggested that you enjoy the vodka mixed with tonic water, in a cocktail or simply with crushed ice. It retails for R169. Hostex Cape Makes the Circle Bigger Last year’s successful wine circle at Hostex, the biggest annual hospitality industry convention in South Africa, is back again this year by popular demand. The area, which is designed in the shape of a circle, hosts a select number of winemakers and gives them the opportunity to showcase their brands and cultivars to the industry. “The Wine Circle has been created as a place where people from the hospitality industry can meet and chat in a relaxed setting. The circular shape was strategically designed around the idea of bringing people together, making it the ideal platform for them to catch up and network while tasting the select collection of wines that will be showcased in the area,” says Lindy Taylor, Exhibition Manager of Hostex Cape. Look out for the Speciality Coffee Association of South Africa (SCASA) at this year’s Hostex, where they are set to thrill visitors with an exciting line-up. Hostex Cape takes place from 15 to 17 May 2012 at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, from 09:00 to 17:00 daily. For further information or to book your stand in the Wine Circle, contact Lindy Taylor at Specialised Exhibitions on +27 (0) 11 835 1565 or email lindyt@specialised.com. For more information on Hostex Cape, go to www.hostexcape.co.za. Correction In our last issue of the magazine a number of Academy of Chefs members were not included on the list. Herewith the list of members who weren’t included: Brian Mc Cune Christina Martin (†) Eugene Van Wyk Gavin Rose (†) Kenneth Clark Lucas Ndlovu Manfred Muellers Marc Guebert Mark Charlish (†) Martin Kobald Michelle Barry Norbert Piffl Peter Kingham CHEF! Issue 28 26 | 5 News Holden Manz Riverside Picnics The gorgeous Franschhoek-based boutique wine estate is now offering something a little different – riverside gourmet picnics. The wine estate has two rivers running through it, so it would be a shame not to utilise them! The picnic is presented in a traditional basket complete with tablecloth, napkins, cutlery and plates, and can be enjoyed on a riverside table or your own picnic blanket. Each basket also contains a bottle of mineral water, and wine can be purchased separately from the cellar. The picnics cost R145 per person with a special children’s menu at R45. The picnics are offered daily from Tuesdays till Sundays but booking is essential. Call 021-8762729, email wayne@holdenmanz.com or visit www.holdenmanz.com Taste of Cape Town Taking place at the Greenpoint Cricket Oval from the 19th to the 22nd of April, Taste of Cape Town is celebrating its 5th birthday this year. Cape Town’s best chefs will be on hand to deliver starter-sized portions of their signature dishes, as well as a host of wine estates and food producers. There are also going to be tons of interactive foodie classes, so don’t miss out. For more information visit www.tastefestivalssa.co.za, purchase tickets from www.itickets.co.za or call 0861 000 291. Dear Me Pantry The Dear Me restaurant in the Cape Town CBD is renowned for its tasty, fresh offerings and specialises in allergen-free food. Following on from the success of the restaurant, the Dear Me Pantry has been opened offering a variety of homemade products. There are bottled preserves such as jams, chutneys, nut butters, relishes, oils, vinegars and pickles, and an antique bread cabinet stuffed with freshly-baked loaves of bread. All of the products are made on the premises and are additive free. Decadent items are kept in a modern glass box, displaying items like Valhrona chocolate and oat cookies, a gluten and sucrose free almond torte, baked cheesecake, macarons, fruit tartlets, cinnamon sticky buns and apple crumble muffins. And let’s not forget the large jar of buttermilk rusks, roasted spiced nuts and a variety of homemade mueslis. This is a fantastic extension to this popular restaurant, and a great way to add innovative extras to the menu. For more info, visit www.dearme.co.za. Potatoes Make a Difference According to research carried out in the United Kingdom, women judge potential mates on the contents of their trolleys. So what were the most highlyprized items? New potatoes and red wine. According to UK-based relationship expert Kate Taylor, potatoes rate highly because they are healthy and take little time to prepare – “a good father doesn’t lock himself in the kitchen for hours to try escape from his other domestic duties.” 6 | CHEF! Issue 28 Food Design Agency’s New Kitchen Jodi-Ann Pearton of the Food Design Agency recently celebrated the launch of the new kitchen at her Sundowner-based consulting company. Fitted out by Mac Brothers, the kitchen boasts everything from induction, woks and flat tops to gas burners, state of the art grills, portable hot pass and walk-in fridges. “I feel very blessed to be partnering with Mac Brothers in my new venture. They’ve made it possible for my food dreams to come true, and I look forward to a future of culinary delights being presented by the Food Design Agency with our incredible set up.” The Food Design Agency kitchen is a small one for the volume of work that is produced, so careful planning was important. The kitchen was tailor-made for Jodi’s needs. With such a diverse range of projects on the go, it was imperative that the kitchen was flexible enough for consulting and design work, as well as restaurant-type service. Craig Roff from Mac Brothers adds that “On first meeting with Jodi-Ann we immediately felt her intense passion and love for the food industry, which mirrored that of Mac Brothers, and this made our decision to partner with her extremely easy. The challenges we faced with regard to space constraints in her kitchen were easy to overcome due to Jodi-Ann’s knowledge and clear understanding of her requirements. It has truly been a breath of fresh air dealing with her and her wonderful team and we assure Jodi-Ann of our long term commitment to her and The Food Design Agency - by constantly adding our new, innovative products to her kitchen for review and feedback, ensuring that we stay at the cutting edge of our industry.” Mauritian Flavour comes to Parc Fermé in Sandton CBD Sun City Chef of the Year Creole-styled, Mauritian flavours are evident on Parc Fermé’s newly revamped menu, all thanks to the appointment of Head Chef Atmaram Madadea. The Mauritian-born Chef is currently responsible for the menu creation, management of kitchen staff as well as plating design, and is producing a number of exciting dishes. “My style is very different in that I try and bring together a host of flavours from a variety of places. Combined with my experience in the kitchen and the places I have worked at, I think we are creating something quite different in the Sandton area,” says Atmaram. The Sun City Chef of the Year was developed to create a platform for development and to spur an interest in competitions in the chefs of Sun City. According to Nicholas Froneman, Executive Chef of the Palace of the Lost City and Director of the South African Chefs Association, “What impressed me the most was that these chefs in Sun City have never been coached, exposed to or taken part in any form of competitions. They all put up their hands to get involved and produced the wow factor! There is clearly a talent for competitions that can be developed.” The new menu is bound to attract attention, given that the restaurant is based in one of Sandton’s prime positions on Maude Street, on the ground floor of the Michelangelo Towers. “We are in such a prime position in Sandton that we attract guests from all walks, including tourists, businessmen, hotel guests from the Michelangelo Towers, shoppers from the Nelson Mandela Square and conference goers to the Sandton Convention Centre,” says general manager Leon Labuschagne. For more information, visit www.parcferme.co.za, phone (011) 245 4846 or email parcferme@parcferme.co.za Don Pedro’s to join Madame Zingara Troupe The beloved Woodstock neighbourhood eatery and bar Don Pedro’s is currently undergoing renovation, but soon it will open its doors as a part of the Madame Zingara collection of restaurants. This well-known landmark has been on the Cape Town scene for two decades and, says founder and managing director of Madame Zingara, Richard Griffin “Don Pedro has long been the heart of Woodstock. There was no better way to extend our footprint from the city centre than with a place that has such a rich history and holds so many memories for locals and visitors alike.” “Don Pedro holds the spirit of Cape Town’s theatre goers, intellectuals, performers and artists,” adds Griffin. “Back in the 1990s it was one of a few multicultural venues that attracted a hugely diverse crowd. We are delighted to be part of the new journey.” Once opened, Don Pedro’s focus will be on a nostalgic trip back in time, with fusion and comfort food and the very best of Cape Town’s female vocalists on hand to entertain. For more information, visit www.madamezingara.com or call 021 447 6152. Drakensberg Sun’s New Chef Delia Clarke has recently joined the Drakensberg Sun Lifestyle Resort as Executive Chef. She is a chef who has cooked for the likes of Nelson Mandela, Thabo Mbeki, Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus and Will Smith. Having grown up in KwaZulu-Natal surrounded by foodies, it’s no wonder that Delia became a chef. After completing stints in Gauteng, Garden Route as well as in the United Kingdom, Delia is looking forward to her new position. “The Drakensberg Sun Lifestyle Resort is a unique and challenging property. The natural surrounds is enough to inspire any chef and it is my intention to really support and use local produce, in keeping with our sustainable tourism strategy” says Delia. “I look forward to exposing my team to new and innovative dishes and to transfer my skills”. Winning the senior category was Chef Chris Lategan, the Senior Sous Chef at the Palace of the Lost City. His starter was a mild southern curried spiced crocodile tail with grilled scallops, minted sweet peas, smoked ham and cannelloni beans, and his main was panfried veal loin, marinated Mediterranean style grilled vegetables, red wine and balsamic reduction served with buttered soft polenta. Topping off his awardwinning menu was his dessert of coffee and amaretto marinated lady fingers with mascarpone and fresh marinated berries on a buttered wafer round. Winning in the junior category was Keitumetse Mlangeni of the Sun City main hotel, who impressed with her starter of pan-fried seafood wrapped in a savoury crepe, served with a rocket butter cream sauce. Her main was supreme chicken filled with olives puttanesca, served with chicken stock, vegetables, butternut, potatoes and red cabbage. From the entrants, entries and feedback during the competition, Nicholas Froneman will be creating a Sun City competitions team. Royal Mnandi appoints Martin Kobald Royal Mnandi, a leading outsourced catering company, has appointed SACA Past President Martin Kobald as its National Corporate Executive Chef. In an effort to keep up to date with trends in the sometimes traditional setting of the corporate dining section, Martin will be tasked with changing the face of the corporate dining section of Royal Mnandi as he upskills cooks and empowers chefs as well as creating fresh, modern menus. With big changes afoot, it’s going to be very exciting to see what Royal Mnandi’s corporate catering division has in store for the future. For more information, visit www. royalmnandi.co.za CHEF! Issue 28 | 7 Q&A Q&A Q& Our Panel of Experts In this new section of the magazine, we tackle a number of questions that Chefs around the country have wondered about, and have asked a number of experts in the industry to give us the answers. Submit your questions to Chef! Magazine, and you could win a three piece gift set from Bosman Family Vineyards. Email sarah@shoutfactory.co.za with your question before the 5th of April. Q& Nelfrie Kemp Podiatric Association of South Africa (0861 100 249 or www.podiatrist.co.za) Q&A Derick Bantjes Cold Curve Refrigeration (011 794 3234 or www.coldcurve.co.za) Q&A Chantel Bellora General Manager of the Hospitality Solutions Company (011 326 0817 or www.lsc.co.za) George Smith National Training Manager of the Ecolab Pest Division (011 578 5000 or www.ecolab.com) Alicia Wilkinson and Carianne Wilson Silwood School of Cookery (021 686 4894/5 or www.silwood.co.za) Q: How can I stop my feet and ankles swelling? A: Swelling (Oedema) of the foot and ankle can have various causes and a thorough history of the symptom should be obtained. Depending on the cause of the swelling the treatment may vary. Swelling could be caused by circulatory problems, medication, family history, being overweight, certain medical conditions and mobility of the person. Diagnosis will also be based on whether the condition is acute or chronic, symptomatic or asymptomatic, localised or generalised, affecting one or both limbs. If the individual is healthy and doesn't suffer from any of the above conditions, but has been suffering from swelling since they have started working as a chef, it could be due to immobility, abnormal biomechanics or incorrect footwear. Treatment in consultation with a physician or podiatrist could include medical support stockings, foot and ankle exercises, regular cardiovascular exercise, sitting with your feet elevated at times of rest or wearing the correct shoes. If tired, painful feet are experienced with swelling I would suggest that the individual consult with a podiatrist who would do a biomechanical examination and then advise on the correct footwear and, if needed, fit the person with custom-made arch supports (orthotics). What to look for in a shoe: Shoes should have a rubber sole, should take on the shape of your foot (not your foot the shape of the shoe) and the shoe should have a cushioning midsole. Shoes should be replaced on a regular basis especially if you do a lot of standing and walking in the shoes, it is best to alternate your shoes for daily wear and they should also be lightweight. Nelfrie Kemp Q: Does the light in the fridge affect shelf life? A: For a display cabinet(Fridge), the inclusion of under-shelf lighting enhances the display of the product. A typical florescent light produces heat as part of its operation. The fridge in most cases can handle the heat emitted. The only time the product can be affected is if the product is packed up to within about two inches of the light tube. The heat from the light then heats up the product thus its shelf life is reduced drastically. Should the light be broken, the temperature in the fridge will not affect the shelf life, in fact it would be more stable. In the case of a walk in fridge, the light inside the fridge has almost no effect on the product as far as heat dissipation is concerned. When the light is out, I am not aware of product spoiling due to it being in the dark. I would imagine that some vegetables and produce may ripen quicker in the dark, but this would only be if left in the dark for long periods of time. Derick Bantjes 8 | CHEF! Issue 28 Q&A Q& Q& Q&A Q& Q&AQ Q&A Q& Q&A Q& Q&A Q& Q&A Q& Q&A Q& Q&A Q& Q&A Q& Q&A Q& &AQ& A A Q&A &QA&A &AQ& A A Q&A &QA&A &AQ& A AQ A &A Q&A &QA&A &AQ& A A Q&A &QA&A &AQ& A A Q&A &A Q&A &AQ& A A Q&A &QA&A &AQ& A Q: What is the legislation on maternity leave? A: In terms of the Basic Conditions of Employment Act, a pregnant employee is entitled to at least four consecutive months of Maternity Leave; commencing any time from one month before due date. Whilst the employee may elect not to take the full period, they may not return to work within six weeks of the birth unless their doctor or midwife specify it safe to do so. The Act also states that an employer may not permit a pregnant or nursing mother to perform work hazardous to her health, or that of her child. Maternity leave does not need to be paid leave, although many proactive companies do have a policy of at least part payment in this regard. The employee may claim from the UIF whilst on maternity leave; they pay up to a maximum of R3,077 per month depending on the employee’s salary. Unfortunately in terms of legislation dads only qualify for 3 days Family Responsibility Leave. Chantel Bellora Q: What’s the best way to get rid of cockroaches and flies? A: Cockroaches are scavengers by nature and would manifest themselves in an area where there is enough food, water and harbourage to ensure their breeding. If there is an infestation then non-chemical methods such as insect glue monitors and caulking of cracks and crevices would go a long way in preventing infestations. Borax from the local supermarket applied behind stoves and fridges aid with elimination and ensure that all exterior drains are clean. Flies enter through open doors, windows or any structural deficiencies around a building. The use of fly traps (protein based) on the exterior will keep flies away from the facility. Fresh herbs such as mint and lavender near windows as well as the use of citronella candles also serve as a deterrent. Remember, proper sanitation, correct storage and no structural deficiencies will prevent pest infestations. George Smith Grown, picked, processed and bottled to order on the owner-run estate to complement any table and enhance your health One of the finest South African Olive Oils DOUBLE GOLD AWARD WINNER 2010 & 2011 Sticker of compliance from SA Olive Association which confirms that content is 100% locally produced and complies with all guidelines as laid down by SA Olive Codes of Conduct and Practice based on International Standards Available in 500 ml, 1 litre, 2 litre ON TAP, 5 litre and 25 litre containers Q: What can I do with cream that’s gone sour? A: Fresh unpasteurised cream which has soured naturally is perfectly safe to eat both raw and cooked. It can be spooned onto baked potatoes or blinis, simmered in beef stroganoff and used to bake scones and sour cream pastry. Once it starts to smell bad or grow mould it should be discarded immediately. It is however quite difficult to get hold of cream which has not been pasteurised. Pasteurised cream that goes sour is not souring in the true old fashion sense at all. The souring bacterias are destroyed in the pasteurising process and thus the cream is actually off, not sour. Some cooks do use slightly soured pasteurised cream to cook with, however theoretically it should not be used at all, especially in commercial cooking. Carianne Wilson Q: How do I keep my fish and poultry fresh if I’m not using it on the same day? A: Temperature is the most important factor for storing fresh fish and chicken, below 4°C is best. If you break the cold chain, it will deteriorate more quickly. If being stored for a few days, we have found that both fresh fish and fresh chicken stay fresher when removed from the Styrofoam container and Clingfilm/plastic wrapping it is purchased in and then wrapped in greaseproof paper and placed in the coldest part of the fridge. Fresh fish is best stored whole, gutted and lightly salted. If the fish is portioned it won’t last as long as a whole, gutted fish and it should also be lightly salted. Ideally fish should also be stored on crushed ice in the fridge, it is important however that the melted ice is able to drain away as the fish should not sit in water. Alicia Wilkinson Our 250 ml combos are great ‘table dressings’ Nick Wilkinson, Owner/Producer Rio Largo Olive Estate Scherpenheuwel Valley, Western Cape 082 688 0578Issue | www.riolargo.co.za CHEF! 26 | 9 Flavour of the month Flavour of the Month Honest Chocolate As the name suggests, Honest Chocolate is made from everything that tastes good and is good for you. Cocoa is ethically sourced from Ecuador and is kept raw so that it’s higher in antioxidants. The chocolate contains no preservatives, additives or emulsifiers and is free from dairy and processed sugar (they use coconut oil and Agave Nectar, which is a natural alternative to sugar or honey). The chocolate is hand-crafted in small batches by chocolate-makers Anthony and Michael who use traditional old-school methods (tempering by hand and cooling on the granite slab countertop). They have a small range of products that include bon bons (original and mint) and chocolate slabs such as 72% cocoa with cocoa nibs, with maca, with coffee and with Kalahari desert salt, or the 88% cocoa content slab for the hardcore chocolate lovers. There’s even a chocolate spread for those decadent occasions. All ingredients are organic and the ‘cooking’ process is kept under a certain temperature so that it remains raw. For more information and for a list of their stockists, visit www.honestchocolate.co.za, phone (021) 423 8762 or pop into their shop at 66 Wale Street in Cape Town. Salt of the Earth Relatively new in South Africa is Falksalt, flavoured salt crystals from Sweden that are distributed in the country by Cerebos. Developed to finish off a dish, the range of flavours includes wild garlic, smoked, chilli, black and citrus, with natural flavour also available. The sea salt flakes are beautiful to look at – as a whole they are conically triangular – and have been harvested from the Mediterranean sea in Cyprus. The delicate harvesting process keeps them looking gorgeous, and they’re soft enough to crush and flake over a finished dish. And as an added bonus, the natural harvesting means that the salt flakes aren’t washed as much as normal salt, leaving trace elements and minerals intact. The options are endless – salmon with a sprinkle of smoked sea salt, potato salad with wild garlic salt, hamburgers with chilli salt flakes, linefish baked on a bed of citrus salt. For more information, visit www.cerebos.co.za. I Scream, You Scream The Creamery in Cape Town is producing some phenomenal stuff – handmade, home-grown (where possible) ice cream packed with high quality ingredients. Flavours change regularly depending on what’s seasonal (no strawberry ice cream in the middle of Winter, then), but you’ll almost always find vanilla bean, peanut butter and chocolate available. Some of their previous concoctions include barley malt, spiced pecan, blackberry brown sugar, plum blossom, fig leaf, rooibos chai, lemon caramel and prickly pear and passion fruit. As it’s a small producer working with other small producers (with only one churner), ice cream is produced in small batches, but this does ensure that the quality is kept pretty high. The Creamery is already making waves in Cape Town and is stocked by a number of establishments so you can find their product at the Neighbourgoods Market, Starlings Café Urban Farmer's Market, Gogos Deli, Clarke's Dining and Earthfair St George's. The head office is based in Mowbray and you can visit their website www.thecreamery.co.za for more information or phone (021) 447 7690. 10 | CHEF! Issue 28 26 Rio Largo Tucked into the Scherpenheuwel Valley is where you’ll find Rio Largo Olive Estate and with the Breede River gushing past the farm, it’s hard to understand why this is an undiscovered valley. The estate is owned by Nick and Brenda Wilkinson who spent the past 20 years managing large corporate agricultural projects throughout central Africa but recently decided to settle down in this quiet part of the world and produce exceptional olive oil. Olives are handpicked and crushed on the farm on the same day, the oil is then cold-extracted in a state of the art Italian Oliomio processing plant and immediately stored at optimal conditions in stainless steel tanks. The storage room is kept at 16°C and bottling takes place throughout the year on order only. The extra virgin olive oil that is produced is made of a blend of three olive cultivars (Frantoio, Leccino and Coratina).Each cultivar’s oil is stored separately and then blended to produce a mild and flavoursome oil that’s not too peppery, but has hints of cut grass and green apple. Nick takes great care with the blending of his oils and his premium blend recently won two double gold medals in the Medium flavour section of the South African Olive Association’s awards – two of only six double gold medals awarded that day.This is the second year Rio Largo has been awarded the prestigious double gold award. Rio Largo’s innovative Freedom of the Press blend won a gold medal in the Intense section. This blend is available in a 2 litre barrel on tap, with artwork created by Frans Groenewald adorning the carton, and keeps fresh till the last drop.The oil is kept in a foil-lined tube that compresses with use, ensuring that no oxidation takes place. A fun addition to any kitchen. WIN Stand a chance to WIN 2 Litres of award winning FREEDOM OF THE PRESS Olive Oil in the fabulous RIO LARGO barrel, which has a compressed foil lining protecting the oil from air and light. A great addition to any kitchen... and full of EXTRA VIRGIN health benefits! Question: How many times has Rio Largo Olive Estate won a Double Gold Award? Email your answer and contact details to competitions@shoutfactory.co.za For more information, visit www.riolargo.co.za, e-mail info@riolargo.co.za or phone 082 688 0578. Give a Fig In season this month is the decadent fig, and who better to ask for menu ideas than Brent Phillips-White from Gallery Café in the Klein Karoo town of Prince Albert. In Prince Albert we are blessed to have the wonderful dark purple Adam’s figs either fresh in mid to late summer or dried the rest of the year. For a simple yet great starter we split the fresh Adam’s figs in quarters (not all the way down), pop some good quality gorgonzola in the centre, then place the fig under a hot grill for half a minute until the cheese starts to soften. We then plate up topped with fine slices of parma ham, a few sprigs of wild rocket and dot with a balsamic reduction. Figs and Karoo lamb go together wonderfully especially in a Moroccan style dish – the quantities all depend on the numbers you are cooking for but basically add some olive oil in the bottom of a heavy casserole dish, then add some ground cumin, coriander, sweet paprika and fennel seeds and fry for a minute or two. Add some ginger, chilli and garlic fry for another minute. Add the lamb shanks and brown these, then add two or three chopped tomatoes and cook for a further minute. Cover with a good lamb or chicken stock and add a cinnamon stick, some honey and salt. Bring to the boil then simmer over a low heat for two hours turning the meat every 30 minutes. Add some dried apricots and flaked almonds and simmer for a further 20 minutes, then add the whole fresh figs for 10 minutes. The meat should then be tender and falling off the bone. Serve on a bed of couscous topped with loads of fresh coriander! For a simple, quick dessert we just slice the fresh Adam’s figs and poach them very gently in some honey (we use the marvellous Karoo Gold honey) that has been very slightly infused with cardamom. We add some roughly chopped pistachio nuts and then place prettily on a flat dessert plate. We serve this with a scoop of our homemade fig ice cream. Nick Wilkinson, Owner/Producer Rio Largo Olive Estate Scherpenheuwel Valley, Western Cape 082CHEF! 688 0578 | www.riolargo.co.za Issue 26 | 11 Flavour of the month Chef Profile On the Shelf… Café Food at Home Evan Faull | Quivertree Publications | R220 It would have been unlikely for Evan Faull to be anywhere but in the kitchen. With Lesley Faull (founder of Silwood Kitchen) as a grandmother, and parents who were well-known bakers, the kitchen is clearly in Evan's blood. His bakeries, called Knead, are dotted across the Cape Peninsula and are beloved for their artisanal breads and bistro-style food. His recipe book Café Food at Home was released towards the end of 2011 and is all about how to make artisanal bread simply, as well as extremely rewarding meals that can be made at home. Recipes are simple and flavourful, and the dishes look rustic, wholesome and incredibly appetising (a nod to Craig Fraser’s fantastic food photography here). To give you a feel for what’s inside the book, there are recipes for Roast Tomato Soup with Rocket and Walnut Pesto, Brioche French Toast, Beef and Red Wine Pie with Mushy Peas, Warm Tomato and Grilled Artichoke Panzanella, and Rustic Mushroom Soup. As you can see, all are easy to create but rely on good ingredients. As David Higgs says in the opening pages “This is how I like to eat. This is how we all love to eat.” – the recipes are unfussy, unpretentious and extremely fulfilling. Desserts Michel Roux | Penguin | R260 If one of the most influential Chefs of our time says it, you know it has to be true – “Desserts should never be considered the poor cousin of the culinary world,” says Chef Michel Roux. In his recently published cookbook, Michel looks at the creative development of the dessert and breaks it into sections, detailing a number of his favourite recipes. He deals with classic as well as contemporary desserts, tinkering with the traditional dessert if it needs improving. Recipes are divided into themes that include fruit, sabayons, sponges and meringues, tarts and pastries, chocolates and petit fours. Some of the enticing and interesting recipes inside these themes include melon and sweet pepper gazpacho, autumn fruit crumble, apple jelly and pear minestrone with chestnuts and cinnamon, chestnut creams with caramel sauce, fig and honey panna cotta and ginger crème brulee. For those looking to spruce up their dessert offerings, this is the right book for you – lots of inspirational and innovative recipes to get you thinking out of the box when it comes to this oftneglected section of the menu. The Family Meal Ferran Adriá | Phaidon |R335 The idea of Ferran Adriá cooking normal food seems a bit weird since he’s devoted his life to breaking the culinary mould. However, his recently-released book is about just that – a collection of 3 course menus that can be made easily at home. Adriá and his team even went so far as to price each recipe to make sure that it was actually affordable, and each recipe can be made with the average equipment one finds in the home kitchen (although Chef Adriá clearly couldn’t help himself, and kept a recipe that uses a nitrogen siphon. But I suppose one of the world’s most famous chefs can be allowed a few indulgences.) The book is extremely well laid-out and one of the points that come through is one that Ferran makes in the introduction – home cooks can learn the skill of preparing mise en place from professional chefs. To aid this, each menu comes with its own timeline of preparation and step by step instructions. The ingredients are also listed in amounts for 2, 6, 20, and 75 people. Why 75? That’s the amount of staff that sat down together every day at El Bulli. In fact, these recipes were all originally put together for the staff meals at El Bulli (as Ferran says in the introduction to the book that “the staff members are like a family, and the family meal is an important moment when everyone sits down together to eat.”) The recipes are mostly simple, but never dull. Meal 3 has Vichyssoise, Lamb with Mustard & Mint and Chocolate Truffles. Meal 11 has Fried Eggs with Asparagus, Chicken Wings with Mushrooms and Sangria with Fruit. Meal 20 has Cauliflower with Bechamel, Pork Ribs with Barbecue Sauce and Banana with Lime. Meal 23 has Tagliatelle Carbonara, Cod and Green Pepper Sandwich and Almond Soup with Ice Cream. Meal 27 has Mussels with Paprika, Baked Sea Bass and Caramel Pudding. Meal 18 has Guacamole with Tortilla Chips, Mexican-style chicken with Rice and Watermelon with Menthol Sweets. 12 | CHEF! Issue 28 26 How To Orange Baked Soufflé The Institute of Culinary Arts takes a look at the sweet soufflé and shows you how to prepare the ultimate unfloppable dessert. • 250ml crème patisserie • ½ orange, zest • 250ml orange juice, reduced over heat to 50ml • 20ml orange-flavoured liqueur • 2 egg whites • 50g castor sugar • Icing sugar • Fresh cherries • Cherry coulis Photo courtesy of The Drift Farm Nostalgic Veggies As the world becomes more ecoconscious, awareness and use of heirloom vegetables are on the rise. So what’s an heirloom vegetable you might ask? Once farmed in abundance, these are different and unusual types of fruits and vegetables that were popular once upon a time but were phased out due to modern agriculture and mass-scale farming. Charming and quirky, these strains of produce were discarded in favour of more disease-resistant, uniform fruits and vegetables, but heirloom tomatoes are certainly more interesting than your average tomato – interesting in taste and interesting in appearance. Who said carrots should be orange – purple dragon carrots anyone? There’s pink garlic, purple pole beans, strawberry popcorn, banana melon, black cherry tomatoes and loads more. Heirlooms’ seeds are saved every year to preserve certain characteristics, and the Drift Farm in Napier (www.thedrift.co.za) and Living Seeds in Magaliesburg (www.livingseeds.co.za) are doing a lot to preserve this heritage. Both companies sell a wide variety of heirloom fruit and vegetable seeds so that you can grow your own, and if you’re looking for produce suppliers you can check out Impala Fruit and Flowers in Craighall Park (011 788 5613) and Northcliff (011 888 4211), as well as Riverside Fruiterers (011 693 2100). 1. Preheat oven to 190°C 2. Prepare the ramekins by brushing with melted butter in an upward motion and dust with castor sugar; and place in the refrigerator until needed 3. Whisk the crème patisserie and flavour with the orange zest, orange reduction and orange liqueur 4. Whisk egg whites until soft peaks 5. Gradually whisk in the castor sugar 6. Add the meringue, by stirring in the first 1/3 and folding in the rest 7. Spoon mixture into prepared ramekins 8. Level with palette knife 9. With your thumb, clean and slightly make an indent along the edge of the rim of the ramekin 10.Bake for ±18-20 minutes until risen and golden, for large ramekins and 12-15 minutes for small ramekins 11.Plate the soufflé dusted with icing sugar and accompanied by fresh cherries and cherry coulis Recipe and Methods supplied by the Institute of Culinary Arts with photographs taken by Kelly Zetler. Visit www.icachef.co.za or phone (021) 885 1414 CHEF! Issue 28 26 | 13 We introduce to you the new TEDDY TM Come visit our branches in: Western Cape (021) 907 1000, Gauteng (021) 472 4100, and KwaZulu-Natal ((031) 569 6290 Advertorial NOW we put it to the TEST! The versatile table top TEDDY™ mixer is your ideal partner in any retail kitchen or bakery. But in order to really prove the qualities of this revolutionary machine, we put it to the test! Bertus Basson, celebrity chef and owner of the award-winning Overture restaurant in Stellenbosch, pushed the TEDDY™ mixer to the max in order to determine the true strength of the product. This is what he had to say... What recipes have you used the TEDDY™ for? We used it for an array of our products but mostly for mixing breads and soufflés. In your opinion, what recipes is the TEDDY™ most suited to? Anything really – it’s a very versatile machine, especially with all its attachments. How would you rate the accessories? Which did you find most useful? They are very durable and hardcore. We specifically loved the grater attachment: just that spared us about 30 minutes each day! Did the TEDDY™ save you time, and if so, in what way? Definitely! The interchangeable bowls and lids are very practical. As I said, most time was saved by the grater attachment! How simple is it to operate? It’s ‘One Button Simple’! One button controls everything, from switching the machine on and off to gauging the speeds. How does the TEDDY™ fare in terms of product capacity? It’s endless, really. Because of the interchangeable bowls and lids we can knock out a lot of one product and even store it in the mixing bowl without blinking. It’s a handy feature. How easy is it to clean? The TEDDY™ doesn’t have any weird or unnecessary hooks or crannies, so it’s really easy to give a good clean or a quick wipe. Even the attachments are easy to clean – we just wacked them in the dishwasher! How would you rate the efficiency of the product over all? Very efficient – it’s an incredibly handy machine! The “Bear” Grylls of the Mixer World! Would you consider investing in a Teddy Mixer? Oh yes – several! “The TEDDY™ mixer has definitely secured itself a permanent spot in our kitchen. It’s also been great to deal with MacAdams who supplied us the machine for the trial. They are a great team to deal with – very hands on and very helpful.” “I would recommend this product to any person who wants to mix anything!” www.macadams.co.za CHEF! Issue 28 | 15 Career Private Chef Going solo is a dream many chefs have – being able to work for a private family or businessman at regular, pre-ordained times may sound more appealing than the sometimes frantic and busy life of serving a restaurant full of guests for the whole day. But what is the reality? We asked Chefs Jon Belinsky and Neill Anthony about their experiences as private chefs. Based in Plettenberg Bay on South Africa’s lush Garden Route, Jon Belinsky saw the untapped potential that the area’s tourism afforded and has been working as a private chef for about 5 years, although quips that “Sometimes it can feel like a lifetime if your clients are grouchy over bad weather beach days, so you’ve got to change them to happy campers with your cuisine.” He describes some of the benefits as being able to start off with a clean slate with every client, “Right from the initial interview where dietary or religious requirements are shared, one has the positive challenge to impress telephonically or via e mail and gather as much information as possible. Not only do I find the chase exciting, but when I finally get to meet the family I get opening night butterflies. It’s Hollywood and I am centre stage from their arrival to departure meeting lists of needs and rendering requests.” Neill Anthony operates from Cape Town and saw an opportunity to become a private chef 2 years ago, realising that he liked entertaining people in their homes. “I feel that there is really a market for this in Cape Town,” he says, adding that he got started by getting his name out there as much as possible: “I also have a website and make use of twitter and facebook as marketing tools.” Neill Anthony 16 | CHEF! Issue 28 So what does the average day in the life of a private chef involve? Neill says, “My typical day when cooking for a client involves making sure that the timing of the meals is on point and that they are happy with the quality of the meals and of course all the running around to different suppliers purchasing and cooking the food.” Jon agrees, often finding himself at Woolworths early in the morning “Over season, commodities are sometimes scarce and you may find yourself revving a Woolies shopping trolley at 6h45 on the hunt for elusive and sought after fare, any later and your family might go without. Mile long checkouts too. Obviously, clear planning ahead solves this mostly.” As with every career, there are a number of benefits as well as negatives that can impact on the job. The cons of the job according to Jon are that “What is discussed and agreed upon before the job starts may not necessarily ring true on arrival. A client’s initial utterances of 'We’re really easy going and don’t ask for much!' translates to 'Chef Jon, bring forth your traits of being flexible, surrender and do.' It is very important to have full clarity of wants and needs. I recommend that you clearly set boundaries.” Both chefs supplement their income in a range of different ways. Neill says that, “To supplement income you can consult, do classes, write menus etc. - there are many different avenues of extra income in the food industry.” Jon gives cooking classes, teaching the basics in stocks, curries and risottos, as well as lecturing on customer service and food costing to hotels and supplying local stores with homemade produce. So if you’re thinking of branching out and offering your skills on a private basis, Jon Belinsky Jon warns that the job is “not for the faint of heart!” However, if you do take the plunge, he would recommend always keeping clear communication with clients, setting boundaries, keeping your nose out of clients’ business and being discreet, and placing an emphasis on planning. Some of the things that he suggests chefs do include “Checking the market for the need of these services, making sure that you can deliver what you promise in an ever-changing environment, learning a foreign language or two, learning to be an all-rounder in the kitchen, make sure you are able to communicate clearly with different kinds of people from all walks of life and be a self-styled entertainer.” Neill says that his main lessons would be “just to keep it simple and always remember that rich people didn’t get rich by being stupid so don’t try and rip them off.” He adds that in order to be a successful private chef, you need to be very flexible and approachable to clients: “Basically, just give them what they need and they’ll be happy.” Neill Anthony: www.neillanthony.com, info@neillanthony.com or 072 584 7851. Jon Belinsky: www.jonbelinsky.com, info@jonbelinsky.com or 083 956 6098. Durban-bred Chef Peter Robertson returned to the city of his birth to join the Cape Town International Convention Centre as their Executive Chef, a position he’s held since 2004. In charge of one of the biggest kitchens in the Southern Hemisphere is no joke, especially when the convention centre is host to a huge amount of people every day. the President.” He adds that “I enjoy working with people and transferring my skills and knowledge in order to raise the bar of the local hospitality industry. The CTICC is involved in many corporate social responsibility initiatives and it is immensely rewarding to be able to give back to the disadvantaged communities in Cape Town. The centre has played an integral role in up skilling and training disadvantaged youth in the area of catering and hospitality. How do you ensure that you keep wastage to a minimum? With over 24 years of experience in the hospitality industry under his belt, it was something quite simple that encouraged Peter to become a chef “What has always fascinated me is how one can take ordinary ingredients and combine them into something special and unique. It’s what attracted me to this profession,” says Peter. The industry is also in his blood as his grandfather worked as a chef in the Mandarin Room of the Edward Hotel. We do event-based costing as well as event-based ordering and keep food to a minimum level in our stores and freezers etc. Vegetables come in precleaned or pre-cut. What are some of the steps that you have taken in the kitchen to be as ‘green’ as possible? Waste separation is done at source in production and all the chemicals we use are bio-degradable. Most vegetables used at CTICC are organic; we are able to buy directly from the source and we also have our own in-house herb garden. What is the most challenging thing about being the Executive Chef of the CTICC? We have a very high staff turnover as most staff are casuals. We are in the business to train and develop unskilled staff. Once they have been on our in-house training programme they are very often offered permanent positions in and around Cape Town, but unfortunately that is the nature of the beast and on the other hand it is rewarding to see the impact we have had on these individuals. It is great to be able to give the opportunity they have had by being a mentor and seeing them grow as individuals. How do you keep control of one of the biggest kitchen in the Southern Hemisphere? By leading by example. So what makes Peter’s job so interesting? “The fact that you never know what to expect. Each day is unique and you never know what exciting challenges you will be facing. As a chef you work in a high pressure environment and you need to have the ability to think on your feet and come up with creative solutions to tackling problems. I love the diversity of my job and the fact that on one day we can be cooking and serving hotdogs and the next day be preparing a sumptuous gala dinner for CHEF! Issue 28 | 17 Chef Profile Peter Robertson Chef chefProfile profile Richard Griffin Richard’s love affair with food started when he was 13. The creator of Madame Zingara was washing dishes at the Jonkershuis Restaurant and watched the chefs create beautiful food for guests. This inspired him to follow in their footsteps. His passion took him to various restaurants around the world, finally earned him a Cordon Bleu Masters Degree in London and brought him back to South Africa where he set up the Madame Zingara restaurant in her first guise on Loop Street, Cape Town. However, when the restaurant burnt down in 2006 it seemed an insurmountable setback but the restaurant’s reincarnation as a superb dinner theatre housed in a travelling tent has been nothing short of inspiring. The Madame Zingara frame of mind has touched the other restaurants in the group – mostly Cape Town classics that were a bit down on their luck, since been picked up, dusted off and brought back to life. These restaurants include Sidewalk Café, Café Mozart, Café Paradiso and Don Pedro's. Many chef-run restaurants and businesses don’t do well – what do you think some of the common mistakes are that chefs make, and to where do you credit your success? Most chefs tend to focus too much on the one aspect of the restaurant: the food. They spend too much time crafting the most wonderful creations and in the process lose sight of the other elements that keeps the engine running – customer experience being one of them. Food is just one part of making it in the restaurant business. It must be complemented by good service and a comfortable space to which people want to return again and again. As a chef, I could spend all my time in the kitchen but for the business to succeed I have to put the knives down and pay attention 18 | CHEF! Issue 28 to the guests and staff members. Are they happy? How can I make this experience better for them? change and you must be able adapt to those changes. Be creative and have fun with your venture. What are some of the keys to successful entrepreneurship? It’s very important to have passion for what you do and a clear vision of what you want to achieve – without that you’ll be easily swayed by other people’s ideas of what you should do. A lot of hard work goes into building a business and if you are not willing to put in the hours then best you find yourself a day job that will allow you to down tools at 5pm. Tell me a bit about how all of your restaurants work – they are all different, but in some ways they all work together? We have a core team (from executive chefs to decor specialists) responsible for ensuring each store maintains its own vibe and also the quality and standard that is Madame Zingara. We have a centralised buying system which makes the day-to-day running of the stores smoother. Each store has its own management team who ensure every single aspect of the store runs seamlessly every day. Our greatest strength, without a doubt, is our Madame Zingara family. Planning ahead is also important, but entrepreneurs often become too stringent about following the plan to the T. Always allow for flexibility; situations and times The Sidewalk Café How have you gone about creating separate identities for each restaurant, that all still have the Madame Zingara touch? There are two consistent themes that run through the restaurants. One is the service culture that is unique to Madame Zingara and springs from the fact that we treat everyone like they are part of the family – staff and diners. The second has to be the quality of the food; we make sure that we satisfy your taste buds and your stomach. It’s a combination of these two things that keep's guests coming back. We’ve always found that all the places we acquire already have their own special personality, and we make sure we preserve as much of it as possible. For instance, Don Pedro’s is an old Woodstock neighbourhood hot spot; it carries its identity through the name and that’s why we have decided to keep it. But of course we had to give it a little Madame Zingara twist by calling it Don Pedro and His Beautiful Wives. After all, his women have been a huge part of his life and we think it’s high time we turn the spotlight on them. How important is training to you? Do you have an in-house training scheme? If so, what does it involve? Staff training is very important for any establishment to succeed. We have developed extensive and on-going training programmes that run across all Madame Zingara units and all tiers of staff, from head office to waiters and waitresses. Restaurant floor staff don’t get to interact with diners before their training is complete. But over and above the training programmes we also recognise that employees deal with stress on a daily basis, be it personal or work related, and that is why we have created a private therapy room called The Lotus Room. The Lotus Room has a dedicated counsellor who is there to look after the emotional well-being of the staff member. Some may consider this a luxury, but it’s very important to make sure that employees have a place where they can…let’s say “regroup”. This goes a long way to increasing productivity and building staff morale. We also like to take a very hands-on approach when it comes to training. There is no better challenge. Last year we hosted our first Chef ’s Showcase where the chefs from our stores had to design and serve their own breakfast, lunch and dinner menu over a period of 2 weeks at The Sidewalk Cafe. The project not only created a unique platform for the chefs to demonstrate their talent and culinary style but also encouraged and inspired staff to be more creative. We had such an amazing response both from the staff and patrons that we’ve decided to run the project again this year. We also encourage our staff to expand their horizons and do more. If a staff member wishes to take up a different position to what they are currently doing – should the opportunity arise within Madame Zingara - we train them for that position. It’s through this approach that we have managed to maintain very high staff retention. What are your views on the current restaurant scene in South Africa? It’s great to see a lot of new trendy and vibey places emerging from most corners of the country. Some restaurant owners are starting to experiment a lot more, mixing different themes to come up with something fresh and new. And we have quite a few urban regeneration projects taking place, such as the Woodstock area in Cape Town. I’m sure we will see a lot more distinctive offerings come to the fore. It’s an exciting time for the industry. Oven Roast Beef • • • • • • • • • 1.5kg Beef fillet 500g Wild Mushrooms 50g dried mushrooms 300ml port 200g bone marrow 50g fresh rosemary 250g butter 1 onion diced 250g frozen cranberries (or 1 tin cranberry jelly if out of season) 1. Pre-heat your oven to 180°C 2. Re-hydrate the dried mushrooms in 2lt of water for stock 3. Dice onion and rosemary and fry slightly till golden brown in bone marrow and butter 4. Add sliced mushroom and fry thoroughly 5. *Add frozen cranberries when the mushroom juice starts to run 6. Deglaze mushrooms with port and cook for 5 minutes 7. Add mushroom stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes 8. To serve, seal fillet in a hot frying pan turning continuously for 3 minutes. Place fillet in mushroom sauce and roast in the oven for a further 6 minutes, coating the meat with sauce. CHEF! Issue 28 | 19 Advertorial SACA Seals Patronage Agreement with Lucky Star The South African Chefs Association is pleased to announce its recently signed patronage agreement with one of South Africa’s most well-known and established brands, Lucky Star. The patronage agreement is the highest relationship status between the association and a company and aims to offer both parties new business opportunities and long-term growth, and officially commenced as of the 27th of January 2012. The relationship between SACA and Lucky Star originated as a result of Lucky Star’s interest to align themselves with a prestigious and reputable organisation that can seamlessly adopt and communicate Lucky Star’s brand ideals to the foodservice and catering sectors. With a national footprint across South Africa and its nine provinces, and with members in a wide variety of establishments, SACA is well-positioned to broaden Lucky Star’s horizon. Lucky Star is hoping to achieve a number of objectives through its partnership with SACA, one of which is to provide basic solutions and uses for Lucky Star products. It is hoped that an increased awareness will be created about the benefits of using canned fish products, with emphasis on production safety, variety of application, convenience, supply as well as the numerous nutritional and health benefits. SACA has a wide range of members, working in establishments as varied as restaurants and hotels or the commercial and industrial sector. This means that the association has the resources to adapt the application of Lucky Star products to a variety of menus. “We plan to assist in the development of informative resource material to distribute to schools around the country. Our accumulated wisdom will assist in this products adaptation,” comments Stephen Billingham, President of the South African Chefs Association. SACA’s role as a result of the partnership will also involve incorporating the canned fish catering solutions and recipe training material into their development programme curriculum. This material will then be assimilated at a host of culinary schools nationally. “The development of clear and precise learning recourses will take place at all of our schools, with safe food handling and practices and to teach students about canning and preservation,” comments Billingham. He further adds that health is one of the key drivers of consumer demand for canned fish and SACA is proud to be associated with Lucky Star. “The South African Chefs Association is pleased that Lucky Star selected our association to align themselves with and Eat better. Live better. we in turn are happy to be aligned with a company that is such a popular South African icon. Knowing that a brand of this stature selected the association for its partner, reinforces industry’s belief in the association as a top industry organisation that brands want to align itself with,” says Stephen. The training material will also be filtered through to the Tourism Development Programme countrywide and made available to students who are in their final year of preparation before entering the foodservice and hospitality industry. Aside from educating consumers, chefs and students on the benefits of using Lucky Star products, the partnership between SACA and Lucky Star hopes to increase the demand within all catering channels for Lucky Star canned fish products. Secondly, SACA will gain the support of influential captains of industry that will assist in fuelling this demand. Thirdly, it will assist in creating an improved perception of canned fish as an alternative protein in the foodservice market and lastly it will reinforce Lucky Star’s brand benefits from a quality, health, convenience and cost perspective. Their intention is to provide an innovative food alternative that can be taken up by culinary professionals and caters to the taste and dietary needs of many growing health conscious consumers. Stephen says that, “The product that Lucky Star produces is pure protein with no filler and the fish is sustainably caught. Lucky Star is synonymous with South Africa and is one of our country’s most trusted brands, feeding the nation affordable protein for many years. We hope to take the knowledge of fish that Lucky Star has compiled over the decades and spread it to our members, in a small way assisting in educating consumers of the good work done by this beloved South African brand. When it comes to demonstrating how versatile canned fish can really be in practice, SACA will be assisting with the development of recipes as well as endorsed training material that supports the use of canned fish as a catering solution. This material will be aimed at communicating solutions to several areas with a focus on chefs in bulk catering and culinary establishments. Other benefits that members can expect to see include Lucky Star’s branding on the Patron’s wall of the Chefs Village hosted by SACA at Hostex 2012, taking place between 15 – 17 May, as well as Lucky Star’s participation at Infochef. This is an opportunity for Lucky Star to present catering solutions and benefits of their products to a select number of chefs at this widely popular industry event. Members of SACA will notice that a host of fruitful activities will gradually start appearing on SACA’s agenda, incorporating Lucky Star’s insight into the extended nutritional, cost-efficient and convenience factors that play a role in food preparation and form part of Lucky Star’s sustainable range of canned fish products. national feeding scheme programme’s All of Lucky Star’s regular event activity will be promoted to the SACA members throughout the year. SACA will also be assisting with developing recipes and training material for the Lucky Star brand. The association also hopes to assist Lucky Star by motivating the inclusion of the Lucky Star range onto the The dynamic growth and relationship Eat better. Live better. purchasing list. Stephen explains that going forward, SACA would like to continue to enhance Lucky Star’s vision to take a quality product into a three to four star market. “We would like to elevate the brand to be served and accepted in an even broader market and to build and increase the consumer awareness of fish and processed fish of good quality like Lucky Star. With huge lobbying power, Lucky Star are leaders in the fishing industry and we look forward to a strong relationship with this innovative company,” he confirms. between these two organisations will inevitably result in providing inspirational insights to aspiring foodservice professionals who will be exposed to fresh knowledge about protein choices incorporating canned fish. Training Prue Leith Chefs Academy Thought of as being one of the best chef training schools in South Africa, the Prue Leith Chefs Academy has a 16 year history of producing some of the finest chefs in the country. The academy is located in a beautiful garden setting in Centurion, with a fine dining restaurant on the property. The lecturers and staff of the Academy put a strong focus on discipline and are determined to produce graduates that showcase the best assets of the school as well as the South African hospitality industry. In 1996, the Academy’s founders Tiny Barnetson, Graham Ledger, Judy Dyason, all with a background in the hospitality industry, established the Prue Leith College of Food and Wine – now The Prue Leith Chefs Academy - to train up young chefs. All the founders’ establishments placed an emphasis on quality food and when a chef needed to be sourced they often had to find suitable candidates from Europe, a frustrating exercise. It was agreed that it was important to involve someone who was not only a business person but a well-known chef, in order to give the credibility that the Academy required. Prue Leith OBE, a South African living abroad since the early sixties, was approached and because she loved the business’s plan and concept so much she allowed a third party to use her name for the first time outside of the UK, and assisted in developing the curriculum as she had experience from her own culinary school, Leith’s School of Food and Wine in London. While the school keeps Prue Leith fully informed with regards to big 22 | CHEF! Issue 28 projects in new directions that the school is embarking on, she is not involved in the day to day running of the school although she does visit once a year. Prue Leith is one of the resident judges on the popular BBC series Great British Menu, and contributed seven seasons of the series to the Prue Leith library for students to watch and learn from. The Academy offers an 18-month long Grande Diploma course, a 5 month Pastry Diploma course as well as a 1 year Part-time course. The intake for each Grande Diploma course is 40, 6 students for the Pastry course, and 12 for the Part-time. The flagship Grande Diploma course is kept at 18 months so that students don’t lose focus of the end-game of becoming a chef, and by the end of the 18 months they’re raring to go into industry. The 18 month course is extremely intensive and is broken up into 3 semesters of 6 months; the first deals mainly with the foundational skills and covers both theory and practical, and the second a combination of theory and practical experience in the main kitchens of the Academy and the Prue Leith Restaurant. The final semester is made up mainly of practical experience at one of South Africa’s top hotels, restaurants, or lodges. Establishments such as the Test Kitchen, Jordan, Terroir and the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel are amongst those venues pleased to accept Prue Leith students every 6 months. While studying, students are exposed to many high quality ingredients such as Iranian caviar, Italian truffles, French frog’s legs, foie gras and Valrhona chocolate. This is not only so that the quality of education is matched by the quality of ingredients used, but so that when the students work in 5 star kitchens they are already aware of the taste, texture and attributes of the ingredients worked with. Professionalism in students is important and when they are out in the industry, the students are told that they still need to keep their appearance and uniform impeccable, despite what other chefs around them might be doing. When asked how the school manages to keep standards so high, Chef Adele, the Head Chef of the school, says that during the interview process potential students are carefully screened, impressed upon that mediocrity is not accepted and made well aware of what to expect in the industry. She says that the industry and career choice to become a chef is not sugar coated in anyway, and potential students are told in no uncertain terms that if their nails are not kept short, if makeup is worn, or faces unshaven, they will be shown the door for the day. Another way in which students are kept in check is through inspiration – lecturers selected have had enough experience in industry to be role models to the students and they show that you can be passionate and obsessed with food, and express creativity on the plate rather than trying to stand out in the crowd by fooling around in the kitchens and missing the point. Lecturers all focus on their own specialised subjects and when advertising new positions they look for a ‘Hot Kitchen Sous Chef ’ rather than a lecturer. Having the correct lecturers is so important that Prue Leith Chefs Academy would rather wait as long as a year before employing a new Chef lecturer in order to find the right person. In some cases courses may be cancelled if the correct staff are not in place. Lecturers are all expected to keep up to date with trends, and are sent on a number of workshops and courses so that they continue learning. In fact, Prue Leith lecturers can quite easily slip back into industry and pride themselves in being successful industry chefs who have turned to training, rather than failed chefs looking to hide out in teaching kitchens. studies at the Prue Leith Academy, followed by 7 months in Italy – 2 months of which covers theory and practical at ALMA and 5 months of practical training (stage) in a top modern Italian restaurant. The restaurants selected are mostly Michelin-starred, and are well respected as representing the best of contemporary Italian cuisine, so the opportunity for students is an impressive one. Prue Leith Chefs Academy: Past students include Chantel Dartnall, Anna Trapido and Wynand van Rooyen. 262 Rhino Street, Centurion, Gauteng Tel: (012) 654 5203 Email: info@prueleith.coza www.prueleith.co.za One of the biggest projects that the school has embarked on recently is the newly launched partnership with Italian school ALMA - La Scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana. The Academy was approached by ALMA to be their South African partner and students with a passion for Italian cuisine are now able to study traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine with the masters. Students complete 6 months of basic theoretical CHEF! Issue 28 | 23 Growing for the future We always care about putting healthy and nutritious food on the table, but we also care about our impact on the earth. Using ingredients and packaging that are sustainably sourced, generate less waste and consume less energy is all part of our environmentally responsible way of doing business. ™ ™ ™ ™ ™ ™ ™ ™ Follow us on Facebook ™ C32398 Advertorial ‘Sauce of Inspiration’ winner has ‘big appetite’ for training A competition from Unilever Food Solutions has seen young South African Chefs impressing judges with their personal ‘Sauce of Inspiration’ stories about what motivated them towards a profession as a chef and their dreams for the future. The prize is R20 000 towards helping the winner achieve his or her culinary dreams. The competition, which is in line with the company’s vision to provide ‘inspiration every day’, closed at the end of November 2011. The winner was Kagisho Nobengula from Vergenoeg in Kimberley whose entry contained stories of time spent in his grandmother’s cosy kitchen while she created “appetising and flavoursome concoctions”, developing an almost obsessive recipe-collecting habit while in high school, and sneaking into the restaurant kitchen where he worked as a waiter to witness the chef ’s artistry. All of these scenarios were part of his ‘Sauce of Inspiration’. Nobengula describes a background entrenched in the belief that it’s not “manly to be a male in the kitchen or cooking” and it wasn’t easy to break into the culinary field. However, fate intervened and he was awarded a place in the National Youth Chefs Training Programme which started in mid-2011. mandate to ‘Reflect South Africa’s Culinary Diversity’.” He has a “big appetite” for acquiring knowledge and skills and declares that if he were to win the R20 000 it would be invested in the training programme. Quoting SACA President Stephen Billingham, he concludes, ‘Pay for the quality of your chef education rather than the Diploma.’ The competition also forms part of Unilever Food Solutions’ commitment to inspire South Africa’s chefs and support up-and-coming chefs. Craig Elliot, Executive Head Chef of Unilever Food Solutions South Africa, says, “We acknowledge the role that chefs play in our diverse culinary landscape and will continue to focus on ways to make their challenges, goals and dreams easier to reach.” Elliot congratulated Kagisho Nobengula on his excellent achievement and encouraged him, as well as all the competition entrants, to focus on hard work and achieving great things for South Africa. Nobengula says his career aspirations are to reach his full potential. “My other ambition is to work with South African chefs to develop and improve classic and authentic South African cuisine that will be embraced by all, and in keeping with SACA’s CHEF! Issue 28 | 25 interest Tips for Successful Entrepreneurship We spoke to four entrepreneurs in the hospitality industry and asked them for their tips for success. Giorgio Nava 95 Keerom, Carne SA and Mozzarella Bar • Do your research and know the market that you are going after. This is probably the most important aspect of starting a project. • Surround yourself with good staff and look after them. I have staff that has been with me since I opened in 2003. • Make sure that your food cost is spot on and keep to this formula. Keep a tight reign over this. • Partner with the right suppliers that offer excellent quality and service. Make sure that you keep an eye on the quality of produce on a daily basis. • Most importantly know your customers and give them what they came for. Service is essential so make sure that your staff are all trained to a high quality of service. If all of this is in place, customers will come back again and again. Photo by House & Leisure Vicky Crease Vicky Crease Catering In over 20 years in the Food Industry I’ve learnt many valuable lessons and the best advice I can give any aspiring entrepreneur is to have complete passion and love for what you do. The profession we have chosen means that we work many long hours, usually entertaining and cooking when people are relaxing over weekends and evenings, so the commitment to your industry and product needs to be paramount. Enjoy what you do and empower yourself through your various connections. I’ve also learnt that nothing we do goes to waste, be it a kind gesture or submitting a proposal for an event - that knowledge and research will be used over and over again. An important lesson in our industry is that you need everybody, even an ant, to make the whole event a success and to never take anything for granted. Be creative and push boundaries with new concepts and ideas, which will ultimately be appreciated by your client. My most recent mantra is ‘failing to plan is planning to fail, which I think speaks volumes about pre-preparation, logistics and teamwork. 26 | CHEF! Issue 28 Karen Short By Word of Mouth Richard Pearce Totally Kosher Your name is everything. Being in a tight-knit industry where everybody is so well networked, you are constantly under scrutiny by your peers so make sure that you don’t ruin your reputation easily. Also, people stay in the industry for an extremely long time, so burning your bridge with one is a mistake that you’ll regret down the line. Being involved with the South African Chefs Association and other bodies relating to the food industry does help to get you seen and entering competitions, going to social events and writing an article for a newspaper are other ways you can be more visible. Just as important as knowing your product inside and out is seeing the gap in the marketplace, knowing who your competitors are and understanding what your clients’ needs are. For example, we used to only specialise in Kosher food items but after numerous enquiries from our clients on Halaal items we decided to expand our offerings. We first had to understand the religion and the laws pertaining to its manufacture, what the implication would be on our existing market and testing the market to see the product’s response before making a solid commitment and going for it. Education and knowledge is key in all of this and don’t be scared to ask your mentors for advice. Dress and act the part – this is the easiest thing to do. People will look at you and immediately decide if they want to do business with you because your personal appearance is how they see your product. Always have a spare, clean jacket in the cupboard so that you can change before you leave the kitchen and go into the public. Know everything about your product. Never lie, be humble and listen before you make an opinion, and never over-promise. Be respectful towards money and surround yourself with professionals who will help you manage your money. When we started I sold my car, maxed out every credit card and almost sold my sister. These days it’s exceptionally difficult to get money from a bank to start a business, so you need to make sure that this is what you want to do. It’s a lifetime commitment and you can’t just pack up and move on – you have staff members that depend on you to make sure they can feed themselves and their families. Surround yourself with good people so that you can do what you do best. A good accountant is a good place to start. I was also lucky in that as By Word of Mouth grew, and I was no longer doing what I loved, my husband came on board to run the company, making all the strategic decisions, looking at the finances, staffing issues etc. This allowed me to head up the design team, going back to what I do best and love doing - designing beautiful events, from floral, event architecture, entertainment and cutting edge menus. The design team now consists of 5 people including a social media marketing person. Don’t get into too much debt. In the catering, hiring and decor business we ask for a 100% deposit upfront – you can’t ask for your food back once it is eaten. It is imperative to move with the times. Invest in conferences and travel because you are never too old to learn. There are a lot of people in this industry and lots of those people will copy your ideas and style. It is essential to reinvent yourself continually and keep up with all current culinary trends. In the current economic environment we have been forced to grow and diversify. When my husband joined the business and took over as CEO his initial thought was that if something ever happened to me, he wasn’t able to cook. He immediately went about opening our venue, our floral division, our hiring and decor division and our sports suites management division which have all added huge value to our already successful brand. We also recently started our staff restaurant division. You are only as good as your last meal or event. We strive for perfection, be it in our food, the production and presentation, the appearance of our trucks, staff or delivery. Adhering to delivery times and generally just delivery way beyond our promise in all aspects of the business. This is crucial - you can serve magnificent food but it will all backfire if the overall experience and service is bad. Catering is not just a food game it is a logistical game too! Never look at a complaint as a personal attack towards you, rather look at resolving the issue as fast as possible. Finding the solution to the problem will make a stronger company and individual. Make sure you have a strong support team underneath you and share thoughts and visions with them because the more ideas you share, the faster the answers will be reached. Get assistance from an entrepreneurial incubator's and never accept defeat. Always have a backup plan and always be positive when you’re feeling down because negativity spreads quickly. CHEF! Issue 28 | 27 Interest Exclusively distributed in South Africa by MacBrothers The world’s first fat-atomising grill is finally in full production in its own bespoke factory, after several years of technical development and trials. We took a look at what makes this revolutionary piece of equipment, distributed by Mac Brothers, so prized. 28 | CHEF! Issue 28 26 • The Synergy Grill is a gas injection fuelled system that is designed to cook at a very high temperature – this imparts a fantastic barbecue flavour without burnt carbon taste normally associated with grilled foods. It cooks quickly at a high heat, keeping the product’s texture intact and avoiding deterioration. • The standout benefit of its many attributes has to be the combustion technology that atomises fat droplets as they drip off the cooking item. This sends the natural fats back up to the item in a mist, helping to deliver a product with perfect flavour and texture. • The fat atomiser means that the grill doesn’t need a fat tray, so no caustic chemicals are needed to clean the grill and it is safer as there is less of a risk of a grease fire. • It’s incredibly easy to use – with one button to switch the machine on and off, new staff won’t struggle to get the hang of the machine. • It’s small and saves valuable kitchen space, but because of its modular layout another grill can very easily be added to sit next to it. • It is faster than other grills, saving you money on electricity and gas as it requires less warm-up time. Its ceramic plates retain heat efficiently, making it perfect for quiet times. • As the foods being grilled aren’t sharing the same surface or oil, there is no cross contamination of flavouring which means you can cook lots of different foods at the same time. • The sides of the machine are 60% cooler than other grills, which makes it safer and adds to a more comfortable kitchen environment. • The grill has passed the latest EC certifications, confirming its high performance and safety. • Early comparitive tests against standard gas grill equipment have shown up to a 40% saving in gas usage. For more information www.synergygrill.co.za www.macbrothers.co.za (021) 505 4100 CHEF! Issue 28 | 29 interest Labour Brokers An Opinion How will the banning of Labour Brokers affect the life of a banqueting waiter? Stephen Hickmore tackles this contentious topic that, at the time of writing, was leading to a general strike on the 7th of March. COSATU’s call for the banning of Labour Brokers is ill-conceived and self serving. I am the first to support the unions in a call to ban all abusive labour practices and any other violation of human rights and dignity. But a strike on the 7th March supporting a motion that will lead to massive unemployment and misery is abhorrent to put it mildly. The existing Labour Laws are far reaching, but the present structures in government do not have the strength to enforce these laws. It does not matter how advanced our statutes are but lack of enforcement will always lead to the unethical taking advantage. Strict prosecution of those who break the law would be sufficient to protect the rights of the workers, along with some amendments to the present legislation. But a ban on legitimate and responsible Labour Brokers is not the answer. The Government are however cautious when broaching the subject of labour brokers and the ban called for by COSATU. In President Zuma’s recent state of the nation address he called for “common ground” to be found on this issue. I am sure the Government see the creation of jobs as vital to the success of South Africa and understand the role that Labour Brokers play in this. Perhaps they also realise that the banning of Labour Brokers would mean a loss of Tax income as well. SARS charges the VAT to the Brokers client at 14% on top of the salary earned by staff. So the Treasury puts millions of rands in its pocket every day as a result of Labour Broking; not to mention the income tax. There is irrefutable evidence that Labour Brokers contribute to decent 30 | CHEF! Issue 28 work in South Africa. A recent study showed that 43% of labour brokers’ staff find permanent employment within 12 months. One in four jobs created since 1994 have been filled by a brokerage. In the face of this evidence Unions still accuse Labour Brokers of being “Modern Day Slave Traders”. The Hospitality and Tourism Industry is a leading employer in South Africa. Let’s look at a simple example: Have the Unions considered how the life and livelihood of a casual banqueting waiter will be affected by a banning of Labour Brokers? For a banqueting waiter to earn a reasonable living out of his skill he needs to find work at a number of establishments. Hotels, conference centres and venues have a high demand for skills but on an irregular basis. So, for our waiter to get a reasonable monthly income he would need to get regular work at perhaps 6 or 7 establishments. This would normally give him an average of 5 days work in a week, 195 hours a month. A Labour Broker (Temporary Employment Service or TES) represents the interests of our waiter and through the one organisation is able to get bookings at a number of different establishments. Filling up his week and co-ordinating his working diary. He is represented as a professional waiter in the market place. Question is, if TES’ were banned how is he going to be able to coordinate his time with all the different establishments to get a full months work? Truth is he cannot, it would be logistically impossible and he would be left scraping around town trying to convince dozens of venues to use his skills. Let’s talk about money. TES’ are in it for the bucks like any business. They have a very small mark up on their services based on the hourly salary of the worker. The TES has to supply large numbers of staff for the business to be profitable. This means that they need to constantly look for more work for their staff to make profit. More business for the TES equals more jobs, and more working hours for our banqueting waiter. To attract the best skills a TES needs to pay the worker better than a competitor. So naturally TES’ are constantly negotiating staff salary levels with their clients. The higher the rate the better the skills and the more cash per hour our banqueting waiter gets. Most TES’ in the hospitality industry pay above legislated minimum wage. For the TES to provide a better service they need to train. TES’ are one of the highest users of the Skills Development Levy in South Africa. Training is what the client wants, this is free to the client and free to our banqueting waiter. What other benefits does our banqueting waiter get from being represented by a TES or Labour Broker : • Transport is very expensive and due to go up. A good TES will normally have its own safe well maintained vehicles that will transport staff if working late free of charge. • It’s hard for an individual to negotiate better terms like, working hours, meals on duty, 13th Cheque, performance bonus. The TES does this effectively. Happy staff equal better service and a happy client, leading to more work for our banqueting waiter. • All statutory deductions and contributions are made by a responsible TES. Leave pay, sick pay, family responsibility leave, Workman’s Comp and UIF for example. How would these be accumulated if our banqueting waiter was employed by dozens of different establishments? How would the Government get its UIF, Workman’s Comp, Skills Development Levy and Employee’s Tax? • A responsible TES regards their staff with the same rights as a permanent employee and recognises the right of the individual to join a trades unions. • The TES can negotiate benefits such as Funeral, Death and Disability and Provident Fund Cover and Medical Aid on a group basis passing on cheaper and better cover to the staff. • Our Banqueting Waiter Will always get paid for his hours worked plus overtime, even if the client does not pay the TES. So, COSATU think again. Call for better legislation and enforcement. Not a ban. Not unless you have no regard for our banqueting Waiter his family and the quality of his life. Diarise these dates – HOSTEX is returning to the Cape 15 - 17 May 2012 09h00 to 17h00 daily Cape Town International Convention Centre Africa’s BIGGEST and BEST international hospitality and catering exhibition returns to the Western Cape in May 2012. This article was originally published on the Hospitality Marketplace website which can be found on www.hospitalitymarketplace.co.za. Stephen Hickmore’s company Hickmore Recruitment can be reached on www.hospitality.co.za or Hickmore@iafrica.com. Stephen Hickmore is also an Associate of The Hospitality Solutions Company (H.S.C) who are a prominent supplier of staff to 5 star hotels and hospitality industry in Johannesburg. The Hospitality Solutions Company (HSC) was formed late in 2004 with the primary intention of focussing on top class service for the hotel, catering and conventions industry. HSC is part of the Imperial Logistics Group. HSC concentrate on personalised staffing solutions with the emphasis on quality skills and training. Headed up by Phillip Meyer, Chantel Bellora and assisted by Stephen Hickmore and a team of 13 managers, HSC now employs over 1,000 staff members in The Johannesburg area. HSC has a broad portfolio of clients, mostly in 5 star hotels in Johannesburg. Clients include The Westcliff, The Michelangelo, The Blue Train, Sandton Convention Centre, Silverstar casino and Sandton Sun. The leading trade show endorsed by the South African Chefs Association, attracting in excess of 6 000 trade visitors in three days, HOSTEX Cape promises to bring all the attractions which have become firm favourites, as well as some new and exciting additions. From non-stop action in the SA Chefs Village, to the HOSTEX Wine Circle and competitions such as the SA Barista Championships and the Global Pizza Challenge, HOSTEX Cape will be hotter than ever before. Pre-register on www.hostexcape.co.za. For further information contact: Lindy Taylor +27 (0) 11 835-1565 lindyt@specialised.com Brought to you by: *Admission reserved. Terms and conditions apply. Competition The Trip of a Lifetime In 2011, two young chefs embarked on a once in a lifetime trip after winning the Nestlé Professional Golden Chefs Hat. The re-launched competition has, in the past, been won by the likes of Chefs Andrew Atkinson, Jeff Schueremans, Andrew Hammond and Citrum Khumalo, so for Andrea Mansfield and Kelly McErlaine winning the competition was an important milestone. After months of training, working and experimenting with Nestlé Professional products, the two sent their entry consisting of recipes and photographs to the judging panel. When they heard that their entry was successful they were thrilled and the two then went on to compete in the final cook-off at Hostex in Gauteng in front of hundreds of supporters and spectators. The award was announced at the end of the four-day Hostex at a glittering awards ceremony where many of the past winners were present to support the young chefs. Kelly and Andrea were overwhelmed when they were announced as the winners, winning the title and R60 000 worth of prizes including cash, appliances and the big trip to Paris and Lyon in France. A spectacular part of the prize included an unforgettable lunch and a meeting with the world-famous Paul Bocuse, who gave the two a tour of the kitchen. In fact, the entire tour was spent experiencing and enjoying a long list of culinary treats in France. The chefs spent four days in Paris, eating and tasting their way across the most romantic city in the world. From the fresh produce and macarons, to the artisanal pastries and French champagne, the two really made the most of their time in the city. They then took a train up to Lyon to Paul Bocuse’s renowned restaurant and enjoyed a sumptuous lunch that was capped with a meeting with Paul Bocuse. It is never guaranteed that the 80 year old chef will be on site to meet the restaurant’s patrons, so being able to interact with this renowned chef and see behind-the-scenes on a tour of the kitchen were highlights for Andrea and Kelly. Renetté McDaniel, Business and Events Co-ordinator at Nestlé Professional, had hoped that the trip would indeed broaden the young chefs’ culinary horizons and give them opportunities that would not normally come about from winning a competition. The total immersion into France’s food culture has helped to shape their cooking styles and enhance their culinary knowledge. Andrea and Kelly say that the experience has helped all that they learnt in school to become a reality, a real life-changing experience. Competition The Nestlé Professional Golden Chefs Hat is an annual competition that aims to test and showcase the talents of chefs under the age of 25. The mystery basket format of the contest tests the ability of each team of two, tasking each team with creating a three course menu using a combination of Nestlé Professional products and mystery ingredients. For more information and to enter, visit www.hospitalitymarketplace.co.za. 32 | CHEF! Issue 28 Winning Menu Here’s the menu that won Andrea Mansfield and Kelly Mc Erlaine the trip of a lifetime. Starter - Pan-fried yellowtail with a fresh herb crust, served on a bed of buttered leeks, a prawn tortellini, paprika oil, with a nectarine and celery accompaniment Main - Poached chicken liver pâté roulade served with a baked chicken and mushroom savoury custard, roast crown chicken, parsnip and potato puree, served with glazed carrots and Brussels sprouts and a red wine jus Cold drink - Toasted coconut cream and Sjora pineapple Dessert - Dark chocolate tart served with a blackberry panna cotta and a berry and grape salad with a citrus syrup Hot drink - Coffee, cocoa and minted condensed milk served with a Milo Crumble truffle While only 1-2% of the nation has food allergies, there is a noticeable increase in awareness of these allergies and with an increase in awareness has come an increase in demand for free-from allergen menus. So what are food allergies and how can you go about adapting your menu to offer allergen-free dishes? “Food allergy is when the immune system mistakenly “attacks” a food protein. It is an immune response to a certain food, which leads to a release of certain chemicals in the body, resulting in the symptoms of an allergic reaction,” says Karen Horsburgh, a registered dietician who works with F.A.C.T.S (Food and Allergy Consulting and Testing Services). She says that the most common food allergies are to cow’s milk, egg, soya, wheat, peanut, tree nuts, fish and shellfish. “Around 90% of people that are food allergic will be allergic to one or more of these,” says Karen. While food allergies are more prevalent in children than adults (2-8% of the population) and can be outgrown, some sufferers are stuck with the allergy for life. Symptoms can affect the gastrointestinal area, skin and respiratory areas – these reactions range from mild to severe, but some are potentially life threatening, such as an anaphylactic reaction which can be fatal. Chef Vanessa Marx of Dear Me in Cape Town has put a lot of work into offering a broad menu with allergen-free options. She says she’s always been interested in offering alternative options on her menu as she herself is a type 1 diabetic. “I have always had an interest in nutrition and how food affects us,” she says. She has noticed an increase in demand for allergen-free menu options: “People are becoming more aware of what they are eating and what is in their food, as well as what does or rather does not agree with their body. There is always a demand for the adapted options on the menu, from starch free to lactose or nut free, diabetic-friendly, and gluten free.” Dear Me’s menu is, on the face of it, quite similar to a normal restaurant’s menu, but under each menu item a subscript will list the allergen-free options that can be ordered. When asked about how she creates allergen-free options, Vanessa says that “When it comes to gluten-free cooking, it can be fairly simple, and you can simply substitute with grains/flours that don’t contain gluten. Getting a baked product to be amazing and gluten- free can be tricky, but it’s trial and error. We have some fantastic gluten-free tortes, biscuits and our soy & honey gluten-free bread is very popular. Sometimes it gets a little more tricky with vegans or lactose-free, but we used our homemade nut milks, nut yoghurts, tofu, okara and all sorts of other ingredients to come up with new ways to be able to accommodate different needs, without compromising the quality, taste or creativity of a dish.” only combining them at the last stage, so that if there is some one that has a special request, we can leave out or substitute ingredients as per their requirements.” Both Vanessa and Karen agree that the incidence of food allergy is increasing world-wide, so while chefs are under no obligation to revamp their menus to accommodate this small percentage of allergy-sufferers, there is definitely benefit to be found in educating and training staff on the subject and preparing a few allergen-free options for guests. However, offering an allergen-free menu is not just about creating tasty options for allergy sufferers, there is a real risk of crosscontamination in the kitchen. Vanessa says that they have to be especially careful in the preparation of food: “Some of the allergies my customers have are extreme, and we take care to not cross-contaminate food items. We take extra care with equipment used for preparing different items, as well as keeping or storing ingredients separately, like the flours we use. When we prepare a dish we try to keep the ingredients as separate as possible, Allergen Substitute Cow’s milk Almond / coconut / goat’s* / rice / soy milk Cow’s milk cheese Goat’s* milk / soy cheese Cow’s milk yoghurt Goat’s* milk / soy yoghurt Eggs (whole or albumen) Orgran No Egg powder or, in baking 1 teaspoon vinegar = 1 egg Gluten flour (wheat, rye, barley, oat) Chickpea, cornflour, millet, rice, soy flour Mayonnaise Egg-free mayonnaise (From Mommy with Love, All Joy) Wheat bread 100% rye bread / rice cakes /corn thins /Finn Crisp crackers Wheat Flour Batley / rye flour * Goat’s milk is only an alternative to cow’s milk for a small percentage of those who are allergic to cow’s milk. Information taken from Cooking for an Allergy-Free lifestyle by Tammi Forman, published by Struik. CHEF! Issue 26 | 33 Interest Free-From Menus interest Trends for the Year Ahead At the end of 2011, chefs, restaurateurs and forecasters were looking into their crystal balls and picking out the trends for the year ahead. Sometimes these trends don’t relate to the South African scene, but for interest’s sake it’s good to see what’s happening on menus around the world. We’ve picked three sources and showcased their thoughts on the year ahead. Menu Trends The American National Restaurant Association’s survey of nearly 1800 professional chefs, all members of the American Culinary Federation, is an eagerly anticipated one and as it’s dictated by chefs working in the industry, it has a tendency to be correct. www.restaurant.org. • • • • Locally sourced meats and seafood Locally grown produce Healthful kids’ meals Hyper-local items (produce grown or reared on the establishment’s property) • Sustainability as a culinary theme • Children’s nutrition as a culinary theme • Gluten-free/food allergy-conscious items Flavour Forecast McCormick South Africa have released their top 6 global flavour trends for the year of 2012 – and if these trends are anything to go by, our tastebuds are in for a treat. The forecast was developed by an international team of McCormick Chefs, sensory scientists, trend trackers, marketing experts and food technologists from around the world. www.mccormick.com. Honouring Roots: Globalisation has taken hold and as cultures evolve, it is imperative to preserve the integrity of regional flavours worldwide. Chefs will be inspired by these traditional flavours, using them in combination with other flavours that appeal to modern tastes without abandoning cultural authenticity. Think along the lines of authentic Hispanic foundational flavours such as Sofrito (garlic, onion, bell pepper and tomato sautéed in oil), or Korean pepper paste with sesame, Asian Pear and garlic. Quest for the Ultimate: Food fanatics won’t rest until they’ve found the pinnacle of fulfilment in food and are determined to find the ultimate flavourful food experience (whether it’s zesty, refreshing, umami, pungent or textural). They’re going to go all-out to find the perfect ingredient, such as the Meyer lemon, and when used with sweet limoncello and herbal lemon thyme, the lemon’s flavour profile just got multi-dimensional. Unusually, dill and mint will pair up with melon and cucumber to provide the ultimate refreshment with a savoury, herbal touch. 34 | CHEF! Issue 28 • • • • • • • • • • • • Locally produced wine and beer Sustainable seafood Whole grain items in kids’ meals Newly fabricated cuts of meat Farm/estate-branded items Food trucks/street food Artisan spirits House-made/artisan ice cream Health/nutrition as a culinary theme Non-traditional fish Fruit/vegetable kids’ side items Children’s mini-meals (i.e. smaller versions of adult menu items) • Culinary cocktails (cocktails made with ingredients normally associated with cooking, such as basil and rosemary) Veggies in Vogue: Maybe it’s the rocketing meat prices or our growing concern for both our and the planet’s health, but vegetables are no longer second class citizens. Used inventively, vegetables such as aubergine and squash can be even more interesting than meat; pair aubergine with honey and harissa for a sweet, North African heat, and squash with red curry is a match made in heaven and made a bit hipper with the world’s favourite cured meat – pancetta. Simplicity Shines: While on the one hand consumers are all about new flavour combinations, there is something memorable and endearing about simple flavours. The warm, spicy ginger is paired with coconut and vanilla is paired with butter, both pairs versatile enough to use in a sweet or savoury setting. Flavourful Swaps: We’re watching what we eat, so it’s time to cut the fat not the flavour. In fact, flavour just got extreme with flavour combinations that are punchy and good for you. Rooibos, cinnamon and plum come together to form a winning combo – think rooibos-smoked seabass with cinnamon caramelised plums. Grapefruit and red pepper are both visually exciting and pair together beautifully – think of an oyster topped with grapefruit and red pepper relish. No Boundaries: Anything goes for culinary trailblazers who are discovering, reinventing and playing with food, taking nothing as given and breaking the rules. Think sweet soy with tamarind and black pepper – a steak sauce with an oriental flair – or blueberry with cardaom and corn masa; all are transcending regional bounds and finding new flavour partners that enhance each ingredients flavour. Restaurant Trends Baum +Whiteman, the New York-based restaurant consultants, have released their forecasts for the year – while many of the forecasts aren’t destined to be realised, their list always provides an inventive look at what the year might hold for restaurants. www.baumwhiteman.com. • The firm forecasts the demise of a number of small mom-and-pop eateries as the economy doesn’t show signs of improving any time soon – big corporate chains will be able to weather the storm as they have more money behind them. • Anything goes – devil-may-care culinarians are throwing caution to the wind and mixing flavours from all over the world for a tastebud showdown. A mutli-ethnic, multi-sensory dining experience is on the horizon where flavours clash on purpose. It’ll happen on the lower end of the spectrum where food is cheap as diners don’t have to risk big bucks on an unknown entity. Sandwiches stuffed with wild, mismatched ingredients. Smaller operators are going to use these flavours on their menus as they’re able to adapt, unlike bigger corporates where change happens slowly and cost is always an issue. • Bread is passé this year sandwiches will be made using anything other than bread arepas (South American corn pancakes), flattened tostones (fried green plantains), waffled, rice cakes,etc. • Innards and other odd parts have been increasing in popularity, and they’re featuring even more on the menu this year – tongues, gizzards, pigs’ ears in breakfast dishes and as snacks, tripe, crunch-fried chicken livers and beef heart. • • Homemade vegetable and fruit pickles with a twist – chefs are adding interesting ingredients to spice up the pickles, such as fish sauce, peppers, ginger, yuzu, smoked paprika and star anise. Kimchee, the Korean pickled cabbage, will be featuring on menus heavily. • The news of Korean food has been spread far and wide in America with the advent of food trucks – bulgogi (marinated meat dish), kimchee (see above) and bibimbap (rice dish) are all new foodie buzzwords in the American lexicon. • Some are returning to the restaurant scene after the difficult economic times – they won’t be spending a vast amount but they want to have fun spending. Because of this we’ll see interest in comfort food waning, and restaurants introducing jazzed up and funky versions of classics. Work is keeping people on the road longer, so this will see social drinking at 16h00 and late night dining at 22h00. Items that easily accompany drinks will do well, such as round, quick-and-easy-to-eat snacks – kimchee and parmesan filled arancini, fried goat cheese balls, spherical falafel, meatballs, croquettes. All are quickly fried and served with contemporary multi-ethnic sauces and dips. • Restaurants are turning unused backyards, oversized parking lots and rooftops into beer gardens – good, affordable beer and unchallenging bar food like pretzels, hot dogs and burgers. • Chefs are creating beautiful edible natural-looking landscapes in homage to foraging and molecular gastronomy – called ‘wildcrafting’, landscapes include items such as chocolate soil, white acorns, fir needles, dried and crumbled mushrooms, black olives, bulgur wheat, sprouting grains, eucalyptus leaves, chickweed, wild ginger, wood sorrel, yarrow and sumac. • Japanese craft beers are on the up and are gaining a following. • Plating trends will move from stacking food as high as possible to stringing out ingredients in chunky lines along oblong or rectangular plates. • Peruvian food and flavours are gaining momentum as last year September saw many of the world’s best chefs attend a conference in Lima that put Peruvian cuisine and ingredients in the spotlight. Dishes include causas (spicy potato balls filled with meat), lomo saltado (stir fried marinated and spiced beef with red onions, tomatoes and parsley), aji amarillo (hot yellow chilli pepper), anticuchos (marinated grilled meat on skewers), cuy (whole roasted guinea pig), tiraditos (similar to ceviche) and the vibrant acidic fruits and juices that go into their unique raw fish preparations (think ceviches). • Baum + Whiteman warn that words ‘artisan’, ‘heirloom’ and ‘local’ will become overused and their true meaning become polluted, there will soon be too many farmers markets and that too many chefs are smoking too many foods. • Buzzwords for the year: Fresh sardines. Ultra-long dry aging of meat. Uni. Yuzu. Tamarind. Ox tail. Duck will make a comeback but not covered in sticky orange marmalade. Hand-made ricotta and burrata. Kalbi, bibimbap, bulgogi (bulgogi right from ifood tv). Huacatay (Peruvian black mint). Bone marrow. Flowers used in plating. Hibiscus. Arepas. Coconut oil. Goat meat. Shiso. Nordic cooking and ingredients. Upscale restaurants joining shopping center food courts. Lamb ribs and belly. Bao. More salad bars using better ingredients. Nduja (spicy spreadable pork sausage). Micro-distilleries. Bacalao (dried and salted cod). Green papaya. Seaweed in non-Asian dishes. CHEF! Issue 28 26 | 35 Advertorial - Beverage solutions Ciro continues to Invest in Innovative Beverage Solutions Welcome to this year’s first beverage solution feature! In upcoming issues, we will research specific solutions for relevant channels with the help of Ciro Beverage Solutions. At the recent Innovations Carousel, Ciro Beverage Solutions unveiled its offerings across all its brands for the year ahead, solutions that will service any scenario. Ciro is well-placed to meet the needs of any and every establishment. From canteens and forecourts to restaurants and hotels, there is a stylish answer to every beverage need, leaving establishments with no excuse to serve drinks that are less than perfect. Whatever your establishment’s needs are, a complementing beverage solution can be supplied by Ciro, with training and equipment servicing to ensure that your investment is delivering its optimum potential. Lavazza At the forefront of coffee trends and culture, Lavazza is an iconic brand that is recognised world-wide. The brand has expanded on its top quality image with a number of innovative offerings. A new blend that’s offered is the 100% Arabica ¡Tierra! where the beans have been sourced from South American communities that grow and harvest their crops sustainably. A filter blend brings the Lavazza taste in filter coffee form and the Lavazza capsule system ensures easy accessibility to the brand in establishments that don’t have a barista. Lavazza can be enjoyed in different forms across the menu, one notable application is the Cremespresso which has been developed solely for use with Lavazza. Using a granita machine, restaurants can create a silken, frozen dessert with the unmistakable taste of Lavazza espresso running through it. Lavazza syrups and equipment allow espresso to be taken a step further, giving guests a wide variety of beverage options. Coming soon are further recipes that have been developed to capture consumers’ search for drinking experiences that are perfect and classic, indulgent, refreshing or natural. This innovative brand has branched out. While it is still perfect for use in a hotel or restaurant with coffee created by a barista, the iconic Lavazza taste can now be experienced in a number of different applications. Establishments that use filter coffee can now offer the Lavazza brand by using Lavazza‘s filter coffee blend. Offices, conference facilities and establishments that want to bring the high profile of Lavazza to their facilities but don’t have the need for a barista can offer Lavazza by using the branded capsule machines, producing consistent cups of Lavazza coffee. With new branded point of sale items such as table talkers, grinder branding, take away cups and posters, establishments can advertise their affiliation with the brand and draw customers that choose Lavazza over others. 36 | CHEF! Issue 28 Douwe Egberts This internationally-recognised brand has over 250 years of coffee experience and continues to impress with a range of cafitesse machines that produce consistently quick cups of coffee that are high in quality and low in maintenance and wastage. There is a growing demand for bean to cup coffee and the Douwe Egberts Cafitesse system fits the bill. The coffee used is roasted on the same day of delivery, and no air is used in the production phase nor any additives or preservatives. The coffee’s packaging ensures that the contents are not exposed to oxygen at all, and the machine that the coffee is stored in keeps the contents chilled ensuring total freshness and taste. The strength of the coffee can be set for each cup and the texture of the milk foam produced by the machine is incredible. The Douwe Egberts Cafitesse System is available for a number of different establishments, such as offices and boardrooms. The Cafitesse 50 is ideal for smaller environments, producing 40-60 cups of coffee a day, while the Cafitesse 60 produces cappuccino with real milk and is perfect for medium-volume demands. If you’re in a higher volume area, the Cafitesse 110 and 120 can deliver 200 and 360 cups an hour. Other options include the Cafitesse 300, which is a heavy-duty dispenser producing coffee in either a pot or cup, and the Cafitesse 700 which is best for high volume and offers hot chocolate and cappuccino. Instant Coffee Machines It is not always possible or necessary for establishments to have a barista on site, but that doesn’t mean that coffee drinkers should suffer. Ciro distributes a number of machines that produce quality coffee to suit different needs, from 30 cups a day to 600 cups a day. Machines can produce hot and cold beverages, freshly-ground bean to cup coffee or even freshly brewed teas. The Krea machine has easy-to-use selection labels and was designed for table-top self-service use. The marketing opportunities are endless when using the Karisma machine as the equipment has a USB port and a screen where promotional videos can be displayed. Apart from visual innovations, a number of fullyautomatic machines are now able to use fresh, real milk with the Shearer machine allowing the user to adjust the temperature and texture of milk foam so that it suits any latté art need. These machines have all advanced in leaps and bounds and have been developed to produce exceptional coffee at the touch of a button while still being easy to clean and use. There is an instant coffee machine for every channel – small or large offices, conferencing facilities, restaurants or hotels without the space or need for baristas, or any establishment where a premium is placed on fast service and consistency. Selfservice table top machines are even available as in-room solutions. While machines vary in applications and abilities, they are all superbly high in quality. Filter Coffee Revolution These days, filter coffee is seen as inferior to espresso-based beverages. However, it’s really one of the best and quickest ways to showcase freshly ground coffee. Ciro is hoping to bring the scent of freshly-brewing coffee back into the establishment – this welcoming scent adds a personal, inviting touch to any establishment. In partnership with Bunn, Ciro wants to bring the love and art back into making filter coffee. They’ve called this movement the Filter Coffee Revolution. Coffee made with Bunn machines is always consistent because the human element is taken out of the preparation. Portions are either full or half so that, as people won’t be adding a spoon here or a spoon there, the coffee strength is constant. The machine can also read the type of bean blend used and will adjust the weight of beans ground accordingly. This makes changing blends quick and easy. The Bunn machine’s filter coffee is perfect for forecourts and canteens, servicing a large amount of people who are looking for quick service and a consistent cup of coffee. The equipment can service both low and high volume requirements, from 12 cups of coffee to options that address bulk brewing. CHEF! Issue 28 | 37 Five Roses Long Leaf Teas Addressing the consumer demand for both health and luxury, Five Roses has developed 6 new flavours in their long leaf tea range. Using real fruit, these teas fit the bill of being an affordable luxury and each tea bag is silk so that the consumers can see the contents of the bag. The flavours include Summer Dreams (Berries and Flowers), Spellbound (Green Tea and Passion Fruit), Deep Secret (Ceylon and Rose Petals), Golden Gift (Lavender and Chamomile), Butter Cream (Rooibos and Vanilla) and Bonfire Night (Green Tea, Apple and Cinnamon). The Five Roses Long Leaf Teas are the perfect addition to high-end establishments that want to offer a decadent hot beverage treat that will appeal to many customers. The tea bags are also accompanied by display stands for the counter and table, enticing consumers to try out the new range. Ciro Gauteng 011 287 6700 Ciro Durban 031 792 0900 Ciro CT 021 447 6110 www.ciro.co.za 38 | CHEF! Issue 28 By Ryan Duvenage Elaborate cocktails are all well and good but especially during our hot summer months a simple and refreshing high-ball is just what the doctor ordered! High-Balls are a family of mixed drinks consisting of a spirit and non-alcoholic mixer served tall with ice. In South Africa this often means brandy, vodka or rum with coke but in this issue we’re going to take a look at a few more exotic variations on the theme. While often thought of as slightly more pedestrian than most cocktails, when made well a good high-ball is a fantastic alternative. These drinks are a quick and delicious way to beat the heat and are ideal for parties as they are easy to make for lots of guests. Instructions for all drinks below are: combine ingredients over plenty of ice in a tall glass. Stir and serve. Tom Collins • • • • 35ml Gin 25ml Sugar Syrup 25ml Lemon Juice Soda Water A little more complex than most HighBalls, the Tom Collins is still quite simple and well worth the effort! This quintessential summer drink can also be made in large jugs to beat the heat by bumping up the ingredients in the same proportion. Dark ‘n Stormy • 35ml Dark Rum • Ginger Beer • Wedge of fresh lime Created on the Carribean island of Bermuda, probably by Royal Navy sailors, the preferred brand (legally trademarked in the US in fact!) is Goslings Black Seal Rum. Since Goslings is not available in South Africa however, anything rich, dark and flavourful will do. Campari & Orange • 35ml Campari • Fresh Orange Juice • Slice of fresh orange The bitter-sweet, citrus flavours of Campari pair perfectly with fresh orange juice. For those that prefer something with a slightly bitter edge. Horse’s Neck • • • • 35ml Brandy 2-3 dashes Angostura Bitters Ginger Ale Twist of Lemon peel Originally created as a non-alcoholic drink, the Horse’s Neck evolved in the late 1800’s to become one of the most timeless Brandy drinks around! The name comes from the twist of lemon peel sticking up out of the top of the drink...apparently like a “horse’s neck”. Barcode is a company dedicated to the progression of the bar industry. Whether through superior drinks and service delivery at our events, world class training and consultancy from our team of award-winning experts, or cutting edge bar design and fabrication. www.mobilebars.co.za | info@barcodemobile.co.za | 0861 BARMOBILE CHEF! Issue 28 | 39 Good Spirits High-Ball Cocktails squeezed! y l h s fre Freshly squeezed juice, squeezed from real oranges, right in front of your customers... If this sounds like a good idea but conjures up images of a sticky mess which is more hassle than it’s worth, don’t give up hope just yet! BCE, Southern Africa’s leading supplier of kitchen utensils, industrial cookware and commercial kitchen appliances to the hospitality and foodservice industries, is now the sole distributor of Zumex – a product that has revolutionised the market due to its quality and reliability. As the leading manufacturer of automatic citrus juicers, Zumex combines innovation, quality and the latest technology to ensure that juicing need never be a hassle again! BCE stocks a full range of spare parts and guarantees to provide full back-up and after-sale services on your machine! Advertorial Just some of the features and benefits of investing in a Zumex juicer include: • There is a Zumex model to suit every establishment, depending on your type of operation and demand for orange juice. This means that guest houses with a low demand for orange juice will not need to invest in the same size machine as large hotels and restaurants that require constant and large quantities of juice. • The Zumex is available in a range of sizes and colours, meaning that it can be as inconspicuous or as eye-catching as you want it to be! • The Zumex is quick and easy to operate, allowing guests to help themselves. • Zumex products offer maximum quality and safety, fulfilling the most demanding certifications worldwide! Zumex is distributed in South Africa exclusively by BCE Foodservice Equipment. To arrange a demo or to locate a dealer in your area, please call 0800 332 537 or visit www.bce.co.za or www.zumex.com. *The Zumex range is available in silver, graphite and orange food feature Reuben Cooks Local One of South Africa’s most well-known chefs showcases the bountiful local produce available in SA, from rooibos and apples to spanspek and Karoo lamb, buchu and mielies to waterblommetjies and guavas. Reuben Riffel accompanies each recipe with either additional insight into the ingredient or a food memory from his childhood. Beautifully photographed, this is a cookbook to be savoured and enjoyed, with the additional pleasure of knowing that all of these ingredients are simple to find. Salad of iceberg lettuce, dried cranberries and croutons with creamy goat’s cheese When I was growing up there was no such thing as fancy lettuce leaves. The only available lettuce was iceberg and Ma would serve it in many shapes and forms. Today, I believe it’s highly underrated. Here I serve a salad of creamy goat’s cheese with salty anchovies and tart cranberries in a case of iceberg. Serves 2 1 large iceberg lettuce 2 tablespoons dried cranberries Croutons 2 tablespoons butter 4 slices stale bread, cut into 5mm by 5mm cubes Goat’s cheese, anchovy and miso dressing 2 egg yolks ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 cup good quality store-bought mayonnaise ¼ onion, finely grated 2 teaspoons chopped anchovies Pinch sea salt Pinch black pepper ½ cup Parmesan, finely grated ¼ cup goats cheese 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 teaspoon miso 1 teaspoon Worcester sauce 1 teaspoon freshly grated horseradish Prepare the croutons and dressing. Peel the greener loose leaves from the iceberg lettuce, leaving only the firm leaves. Slice in half widthwise. Cut off the round bottom of each half so it stands easily without swinging around. Place one half in each serving bowl. Drizzle the dressing over each one and garnish with the dried cranberries and croutons. Melt the butter in a nonstick pan. Add the bread cubes and keep tossing over a medium heat until they turn golden brown. Take care not to brown too much; remember that when the croutons are taken out of the pan they will continue to cook for a Reuben Cooks Local is published by Quivertree Publications and retails for R390. Photographs are taken by Craig Fraser. 42 | CHEF! Issue 28 while because of the heat of the butter. Place on paper towel to drain and allow to cool. Whisk the egg yolks. Slowly whisk in the olive oil and then mix in the rest of the ingredients. Buchu, pumpkin, parsnip and apple soup with panseared apple and apricot kernel oil Buchu is prized for its medicinal purposes and when used in cooking, imparts a unique herbal fragrance and flavour. But it needs to be used sparingly. Dried buchu, which is what I’ve used in this recipe, can be found at most health shops. Serves 2 4 leaves buchu 2 cups peeled and chopped pumpkin ¾ cup peeled, cored and chopped Granny Smith apple 1 cup peeled and chopped parsnip ¼ cup chopped celery ¼ cup chopped leeks 2 tablespoons olive oil Juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon moskonfyt ¼ cup cream 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 teaspoons olive oil 4 slices Pink Lady apple 2 teaspoons apricot kernel oil Vegetable stock 2 carrots, halved lengthwise and chopped 2 onions, quartered 2 tomatoes, quartered ½ bunch celery, chopped into a few pieces 2 cloves garlic 1 bay leaf About 1 litre water In a large pot, sweat the buchu, chopped pumpkin, apple, parsnip, celery and leeks in 2 tablespoons olive oil for about 10 minutes. Add 20ml of water if the vegetables get too dry so that they can keep on sweating, bringing the sweetness out of the vegetables. Cover the vegetables with vegetable stock and cook for another 10–15 minutes on medium low heat until the pumpkin is cooked through. Add the lemon juice and moskonfyt. Stir in the cream and seasoning. Blend the soup until very smooth and keep warm. Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil and fry the Pink Lady apple slices on medium-high heat till they start to turn golden and curl on the sides. (This will happen quickly as there is lots of sugar in the apple that will caramelize within seconds of getting up to temperature.) To serve, divide the soup between 2 warm serving bowls. Carefully place the apple slices on top of each serving and drizzle with apricot kernel oil. Vegetable stock Put all the vegetables, the garlic and bay leaf into a large pot and cover with water (about 1 litre). Bring to the boil and simmer for 2–3 hours, skimming off impurities when necessary. Strain and set aside. Win a copy of Reuben Cooks Local! To win a copy of Reuben Cooks Local, just send the answer to the following question to Sarah at sarah@shoutfactory.co.za by the 15th of April. Which Western Cape town is home to Reuben’s first restaurant? CHEF! Issue 28 | 43 food feature Whole red roman crusted with chilli-lime salt and stuffed with celery and lemon Red roman is a rich, delicate white-fleshed fish, endemic to South Africa, which reminds me of crayfish. Here I’ve served it with roasted winter root vegetables. This is best placed on a platter in the middle of the table so that everyone can help themselves. Serves 2–4 4 medium carrots, peeled 6 baby turnips 20 baby beetroots ¼ cup olive oil 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 whole red roman, gutted and scaled 2 tablespoons chilli-lime salt 3 stalks celery, leaves left on, chopped 1 lemon, sliced 2 tablespoons olive oil Preheat the oven to 190˚C. Put the carrots, turnips and beetroots in a baking dish. Dress the vegetables with ¼ cup olive oil and season with sea salt. Cover with foil and bake for about an hour until the vegetables are cooked. Reduce the oven to 160˚C. Score the fish with a sharp knife. Rub the fish inside and out with the chilli-lime salt. Fill the cavity with the celery and lemon. Put the fish on a sizeable baking tray. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and bake for about 40 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the size of the fish. To serve, put the fish in the middle of a large serving platter. Decoratively pile the vegetables around it and drizzle around the parsley-lemon oil. Parsley-lemon oil Parsley-lemon oil 1 cup parsley leaves Juice of 1 lemon 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil 44 | CHEF! Issue 28 In a pestle and mortar, crush the parsley leaves to a smooth paste. Mix in the lemon juice and oil until well blended. masterclass Recipes and styling by Jodi-Ann Pearton of the Food Design Agency, photographs taken by Christoph Hoffmann Gnocchi This all-Italian classic takes pride of place on any table, though when prepared incorrectly they can be stodgy and unappetising. Chef Jodi-Ann Pearton of the Food Design Agency shows us the correct way to make perfect gnocchi, and then describes three sauces with which to accompany them. Top tips to remember? Always mash the potatoes when they’re hot, make sure to use salted water to boil them in and only cook a few at a time. 1 2 Jodi-Ann Pearton 3 Gnocchi Recipe 750gpotatoes small egg 1 ½ tsp salt ¾ cup cake flour ¼ cup olive oil 4 • Preheat an oven to 180°C. • Bake the potatoes until they are very soft. • While the potatoes are still hot, remove the skin and then pass them through a sieve into a bowl. • Add the egg, salt and flour to the potato and knead well to form a soft dough. • Roll the dough into sausage shaped rolls and cut it into small pieces. You may shape them utilising a fork. • Drop the gnocchi into salted, boiling water and cook them until they rise to the surface. • Toss the gnocchi in olive oil – at this point they may be chilled and frozen between layers of greaseproof paper. • When you are ready to serve the gnocchi, melt butter in a non-stick pan and gently sauté the gnocchi until golden brown, take care not to damage the gnocchi as they are very delicate. 46 | CHEF! Issue 28 26 5 6 7 10 8 9 11 12 15 13 14 16 Gnocchi with White Wine Gastrique ½ cup brown sugar 2 – 3 star anise 5ml pink peppercorns 2 sticks cinnamon ½ cup orange juice ½ cup excellent quality white wine • Place the sugar into a sauce pan over medium heat. • Allow the sugar to caramelise. • Pour the wine into the caramel with the spices and stir until the sugar dissolves again • Add the orange juice and simmer until reduced to the correct consistency. • Nap the gnocchi with the gastrique and garnish. Gnocchi with Sauce Vierge 300g cherry tomatoes, halved 5spring onions, sliced thinly 1red onion, chopped very finely 2lemons, zest & juice 1cucumber, brunoise 10g basil, chiffonade 100ml olive oil Mix all ingredients together and toss gnocchi through the sauce vierge. This is an excellent summer dish. Gnocchi with Crispy Bacon and Pea Sauce ½ cup chicken stock ½ cup fresh peas ½ cup cream pinch nutmeg fresh herbs parmesan cheese ½ onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 5ml thyme leaves, picked 2 rashers oaked smoked streaky bacon • Sauté the onions in a saucepan with a little oil or butter. • Add the garlic and thyme and cook for a further 2 minutes. • Dice the streaky bacon and add to pan, cook slowly to render. Once crisp add the stock and reduce by half, add the cream and reduce until thickened. • Season with nutmeg, salt, pepper and herbs. • Toss the gnocchi through the sauce and serve with parmesan cheese. CHEF! Issue 28 | 47 Advertorial Chefs should be Soya Savvy Soya products serve as an excellent alternative to the use of dairy products, and this is the route that many lactose intolerance suffers follow. Even non-sufferers often opt for soya-based dairy alternatives, as the health benefits and versatility of these products are extensive. Catering to this growing niche market is becoming increasingly popular, as health and nutrition awareness is a trend that is growing astronomically. Aside from that, customers whose needs are recognised and catered for are sure to give you repeat business, as it’s often little things like this that make a large impact on people’s perception of your establishment. The age-old problem, however, is that soya does not traditionally rank highly in the taste department! And, of course, taste is very, very important! That’s why Alpro Soya’s versatile range of milk, dessert and cuisine products are so highly sought after within the industry – not only are they dairy-free and perfect for the health conscious and lactose intolerant alike, but they taste great too! With natural and flavoured ‘milk’ varieties, tasty low-calorie desserts and even a delicious cream alternative product, Alpro ensures that your customers will never again have to compromise on taste to stay healthy! These days, it seems that the prevalence of food allergies is at an all-time high – lactose intolerance being one of the most common ailments. This poses a challenge to anyone working in the food or hospitality industry, as they will undoubtedly be faced with customers’ allergies, intolerances and specific dietary requirements at some stage. 48 | CHEF! Issue 28 26 What’s more is that Alpro is committed to treading as carefully as possible on our environment. From the sourcing of their soya beans to the respect shown to every individual involved in the processing method, and even their environmentally-friendly tetra packaging, you can be assured of the integrity undertaken along the way. But as they say, the proof is in the pudding, so don’t take our word for it – taste it for yourself! What is Soya Milk? Soya Milk is a non-dairy form of milk that is made from soya beans. Traditionally consumed by people who are allergic to cow’s milk, this nutrient-rich alternative is gaining popularity in the western world due to its associated health benefits. Benefits of Soya The health benefits of soya are widely researched and welldocumented. • Soya is a great source of fibre, which helps with general digestive function. • Soya milk does contain fats, but these are of the good, cholesterol-free variety, which prevents clogged arteries and heart disease. • Unlike normal milk, soya milk is lactose free. Around 75% of the globes population have some kind of lactose intolerance and this is especially true of those of African and Asian origin. Soya provides an excellent alternative. • Soya contains isoflavones, which are thought to be linked with a number of health benefits including the prevention of heart disease, some cancers and osteoporosis. It is also a good source of lecithin, vitamins B and E. For a limited time period, Alpro is providing hospitality and culinary establishments with FREE SAMPLE PACKS so that you can do just this... and share these great tasting products with your customers! Simply visit www.hospitalitymarketplace.co.za and click on the banner to submit your details and we will call you! CHEF! Issue 28 26 | 49 SACA Edward Clegg Dinner Boyz A fter qualifying at Bournemouth College in UK, Edward returned to his home in South Africa to take up a position at the Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town with Garth Stroebel. After working with Chef Stroebel for some time, he transferred Edward up to the Westcliff Hotel Johannesburg where Edward first met and worked with Chef Andrew Atkinson. The pair then went on to work together at the Castle Kyalami and then the Michelangelo Hotel. As well as being a member of Culinary Team South Africa, Edward has recently started his own company, Dinner Boyz, where he hosts and caters for an assortment of events, ranging from chefs tables to dinner parties. Philosophy on food? Good clean flavours, fresh produce, love and care. What inspired you to become a chef? The love of food and being able to make people happy. The pressure in a busy kitchen just gets into your blood. Globally, which chef do you admire? Raymond Blanc and Neil Perry. If you couldn’t be a chef, what would you be? Anything using my hands and working with people. What was your worst culinary catastrophe? Burning 300 mince pies half an hour before a big function. What is your fondest memory in a kitchen? The day I got to run the pass on my own for the first time. What dish would you cook to seduce someone? Strawberries and cream with melted chocolate – less cooking time and more time for other things. What do you never cook? Brussel sprouts. What is the one dish you find hard to get right? A really good and balanced Indian curry. Who’s the most famous person you’ve cooked for? Richard Branson. 50 | CHEF! Issue 28 Deconstructed Caesars salad with Chorizo and Oven Roasted Cherry Tomatoes Sliced Chorizo 200g chorizo 200ml Vegetable stock (made from 3 teaspoons of Knorr Vegetable Bouillon granules) Chopped parsley Olive oil 5g Robertson’s salt and Robertson’s Pepper 1.Slice the chorizo lengthways on a slicer about 1.5 milimetre thick. 2.In a pan bring the stock to a simmer, place the chorizo and blanch for 15 to 20 seconds. 3.Place the blanched chorizo on to the oven tray, drizzle with a little olive oil, season and sprinkle with chopped parsley. 4.In a low oven around 70-80°C and place the chorizo inside. Crisp up, although not to crispy. 5.This now forms the base of the salad. Quail Egg 1.Fill a saucepan with 500ml salted water and place one egg per person. 2.Slowly bring to the boil (remember, a quail’s egg cooks in a fraction of the time normal eggs do) and cook for around three to four min so that the eggs are not too soft. 3.Once cooked, place the eggs in cold water to stop them cooking. 4.Peel the eggs, cut into quarters, season and sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley. Garlic Croutons 4 slices white or brown bread 200ml olive oil 1 clove garlic Spring rosemary 1.Cut the crusts off the bread. 2.Cube the sliced bread in squares roughly a centimetre in width and length 3.Heat the oil in a sauce pan 4.Add the garlic and rosemary to the oil. 5.Now that the oil has taken on the flavour of the rosemary and the garlic, add the cubed bread. 6.Fry the bread until golden brown. Remove from oil and place on paper towel. Caesar’s Dressing 80ml white balsamic vinegar 300ml good olive oil ½ tsp grain mustard 2 tsp lemon juice 3tsp Worcestershire sauce ½ tsp lemon zest 150g grated boiled egg 100g grated parmesan cheese 5g Robertson’s salt and Robertson’s pepper 1.Add all the ingredients besides the oil to a food blender. 2.Blend until you have a smooth paste and add the oil slowly until you are happy with the consistency. 3.Season to taste. Balsamic Reduction 100ml black balsamic 40 ml red wine 50g castor sugar ¼ Robertson’s cinnamon stick 1 Robertson’s star anise 100ml water 1.Place all the ingredients in a sauce pan bring to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer. 2.The reduction will be ready when in reaches a syrup like consistency. Baby Cos Lettuce and Micro Herbs 1.Pick a good selection of the baby Cos lettuce and the micro green, make sure you have some pea shoots in the mix. 2.Wash all the greens and just before serving season and dress with a little oil. Oven Roasted Cherry Tomatoes 1.Pick some red and yellow cherry tomatoes. 2.Quickly blanch in some hot water. 3.Cool in ice water now from the top end to the core end peel the skin back to form a floral top. 4.Season and drizzle with some oil, roast in an oven at 180°C for around 5 to7 minutes and cool. Sautéed Red Onion 1.Peel one red onion. 2.Cut onion in half and remove core. 3.Slice the onion into slices, forming crescents. 4.Separate all individual slices. 5.Using the oil that was left over from the croutons, fry the sliced onions for just a few seconds to take away the sharpness. CHEF! Issue 28 | 51 SACA How To Enter Competit ions By Jodi-Ann Pearton, SACA Director of Competitions Many people are petrified of competing in cookery competitions but instead of shying away allow me to remove the anxiety and guide you through the process of how to go about approaching competitions in a successful and stress-free way! Competitions are an amazing way to network, grow your career and get exposure, so what are you waiting for? Push the boundaries and work out of your comfort zone, this is how we learn! Entering a competition. Now you are ready to fill in the entry form either online or in black pen, in print. • Correctly standardised recipes are utilised (examples on www.saca.co.za) • Full colour photographs are submitted with each recipe (1/3 of the page) • An easy-to-read font is used or clear handwriting • No names must be put on the recipes or photographs (as judging is done blind) • All compulsory products need to be highlighted on the recipes and methods • Careful thought needs to go into the content of the recipe and the photograph as this is the only medium with which the judges may select you • Good colour, texture and visible flavour showcased • Correct and accurate methods • Correct headlines and accurate terminology Many competition entries require a menu submission with recipes and colour photographs and this is to allow the initial judging panel an opportunity to select the correct candidates to compete in the final rounds of competition. With this in mind may I emphasise that this leg of the process is very important. Once you have a correctly completed the entry it is time to submit. Never take a chance with the entry arriving safely and on time. Submit with plenty of time available before the closing date. Bind your entry in a presentable way and ensure to have once copy hand delivered and if possible, on copy e-mailed. The entries submitted are judged according to the same criteria that will be used in the final rounds so it is extremely important that the following points are followed: In the next edition we shall discuss preparation for competition day and how to work towards the goal of winning. The first thing to ensure is that you are a member of The South African Chefs Association. By being a member you have access to all the latest competition entries and guidelines as well as access to current food trends. Once you have found a suitable competition that you would like to enter, read the guidelines with care. Ensure that you understand the criteria and the entry form. Ask as many questions as you need to in order to ensure that you handle the process correctly from the start. 52 | CHEF! Issue 28 Example of One Dish of an Entry: Seared Scallops with a hazelnut vinaigrette served with a pickled cucumber mat, madumbe and vanilla puree, snoek pâté & a celery and port-jelly salad. METHOD Seared Scallops: 1. Heat a non-stick pan and add oil and butter 2. Sear the scallops on a high heat for approximately 2 minutes per side until just cooked through Hazelnut vinaigrette: 1. Chop the hazelnuts and mix all ingredients together, season well and set aside Madumbe & vanilla puree: 1. Chop the madumbes and boil gently in the stock until completely tender 2. Drain the vegetables and retain the stock 3. Place the soft madumbe into a chinois and pass it, scrape the vanilla seeds into the puree and then correct the consistency with the retained stock 4. Season well Pickled cucumber mat: 1. Cut the cucumber into long strips discarding the seeds 2. Cut the strips into blocks approximately 5cm x 2.5cm 3. Mix the vinegar, oil, sugar, salt and spice together and pour it over the cucumber 4. Allow to rest overnight to pickle Serves: 4 EQUIPMENT: Pots, Pan, Chinois INGREDIENTS Seared Scallops: 8 fresh scallops 30mloil 10gbutter Salt & pepper black lump fish caviar 16ml 8ml lemon zest 6 day old celery micro 8ml greens Hazelnut vinaigrette: toasted hazelnuts, skinned 8 60ml hazelnut oil white wine vinegar 40ml 2ml smoked salt 2ml ground black pepper Madumbe & vanilla puree: Madumbes, peeled 350g chicken stock 1L 80gbutter 1 vanilla pod Pickled cucumber mat: cucumber, peeled 1 70ml spirit vinegar 50ml vegetable oil 30mlsugar 15ml cumin seeds, toasted 10mlsalt Snoek Pâté: Snoek Pâté: fresh, un-smoked snoek 200g 100ml full cream milk bouquet garni 1 1 carrot, chopped roughly rib celery, diced 1 1 onion, quartered olive oil 30ml 2 spring onions, di-cut Salt & pepper Port jelly: 500mlport 60gsugar 2 leaves gelatine Celery Salad: 2 ribs celery 20 small rosa tomatoes red onion, brunoise ¼ coriander micro greens 30 1. Poach the snoek in the milk with the bouquet garni and stock vegetables 2. Once cooked remove the fish and chop gently until a fine pâté forms 3. Mix in the spring onion and season well. Port jelly: 1. Mix the port and sugar together and reduce by half 2. Sponge the gelatine in a little water and add to the hot port mixture 3. Pour into an oiled tray and allow to set 4. Cut out perfect squares Celery salad: 1. Peel the celery 2. Use the peeler to remove long thin strips of flesh from the ribs, blanche these then place them in ice water 3. Cut the remaining celery on the dias 4. Peel the tomatoes ASSEMBLY: 1. Place the celery ribbons, di cuts, tomatoes and jelly together on the plate to form a salad, garnish with coriander micro greens and dress with hazelnut dressing 2. Lay 3 pieces of cucumber onto the plate with a little pickling liquor 3. Set the scallops beside the cucumber and top each with 2 ml of lumpfish caviar, a little lemon zest and 2ml of baby celery micro greens 4. Quenelle the snoek pâté and madumbe puree and set beside the scallops, season well 5. Dress the scallops and plate with hazelnut dressing. 6. Serve CHEF! Issue 28 | 53 pod16243 SACA World Association of Chefs Societies Spotlight on Iceland We chat to Hákon Már Örvarsson, a member of the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) from Iceland, about what’s happening on the culinary scene in his country. I am a part time teacher at the Culinary Institute of Iceland in Winters and I run and operate a fine dining lodge attached to a salmon river in the summertime and freelance private functions during the whole year. I am also a 2001 Bocuse de Bronze winner and a board member of the Icelandic Chefs Association. My country’s cuisine is very much produce driven: fish and shellfish from the Cold Atlantic, free range lamb from the mountains and unique dairy products. A famous and very traditional dish is a pot au feu soup of lamb shank or shoulder called Kjötsúpa. Combine in a stock pot goulash pieces of lamb, some of the season root vegetables (coarsely chopped), chopped cabbage, bay leaf and soup herbs. Bring up to the boil with water just to cover and let simmer for two to three hours. Season to taste and serve. I would describe our hospitality industry as getting stronger. Tourism is increasing every year by some percentage and getting stronger every year. The restaurant scene is very exciting with lots of new establishments being opened by hard working young and ambitious professionals. Iceland is becoming more and more known for its performance on the culinary fields. The culinary team of Iceland is doing an outstanding job, placing 7th overall in the Culinary World Cup, and our candidates in the Bocuse d´Or always rank within the top 10 since we began participating. The trend that is making a splash at the moment is Nordic cuisine. The young Icelandic chefs are inspired by the country´s nature and the beautiful produce we have, and work with that spirit. They also travel and learn abroad to import some of the best knowledge and technique there is. My speciality is Sautéed free range Icelandic lamb fillet prepared and cooked with a little fat so to render to a thin crisp coat. It’s served with juniper-infused lamb jus reduction, root vegetables, dusted with herbs from the mountains and a sprinkle of dried blueberries. Academy of Chefs The World’s her Oyster! The Bidvest World Chefs Tour Against Hunger opened many doors, not just for the charities which benefitted from the funds raised, but also for the many friendships and partnerships that were made. Patrice Marchand, part of the Belgian team, is set to host the first recipient of the Walter Ulz Educational Fund – Megan Cook. Megan has shown a keen interest in pastries and chocolate work and will be jetting off to Belgium for a 3 month introduction course at Patrice’s Le Grillon restaurant in Osweiller. will begin work with one of the Academy of Chefs members and will be available to share her experience and new found knowledge with other members, especially the young up-andcomers in the industry. Megan was especially chosen as she has no formal training in the hospitality industry, but demonstrated her willingness and passion to get involved in food and its preparation. Though she has no culinary background, she has been making chocolates and pastries and selling them at the counter of the factory shop where she works. The restaurant is well-known for its high quality dishes and the artistry shown in the pastry department, so Megan will have the best training she can receive. Upon her return she Academy of Chefs Chairman Philippe Frydman has plans to set up a facebook page so that we’ll all be able to keep abreast of her overseas training – watch this space! 56 | CHEF! Issue 28 Kabelo is serving his second term as an elected member of the South African Chefs Association Board of Directors and works as a lecturer at the HTA School of Culinary Art. How did you get started as a chef? It all started when I was 14 years old at Town View High School in Krugersdorp. I took Hotel Keeping and Catering as my 6th subject and during that time I worked at a number of local restaurants in the area. I was interested in cooking as I had spent most of my childhood with my mother in kitchen, watching her prepare food and cooking us our favourite dishes. After matriculating I went to further my business studies at Birnam Business College where I received a Diploma in Hotel Management. I then returned to the North West to the School of Tourism to gain more knowledge and completed my apprenticeship at Damark Caterers as the Sous Chef as well as the Executive Sous Chef at Avon Justine. Damark Caterers placed me onto the 3 year In-Service Apprenticeship Programme at HTA to obtain more a formal qualification in cookery. Who is your culinary inspiration? Chef Warren Jacobs Executive Chef at Turffontein race course taught me to never accept failure, no matter how often it visits you. Keep on going and never give up. Ever. Chef Stephen Billingham taught me that the more you give you will find the more you will get. What is it like being a lecturer? Exciting and challenging as I have a role in imparting culinary knowledge to others and seeing them succeed. Is there a young up-and-coming chef in SA that you feel we should look out for? Stacey Lee Chan - watch this space for this girl! If you could eat at one restaurant in the world, where would it be? The Fat Duck Restaurant in England - I have heard so many wonderful things about it. What is the biggest mistake that you see being made in kitchens repeatedly? Young 1chefs seem to lose focus on the flavours and the taste 2012/03/15 4:16 PM strip ads hosp.pdf of food and focus too much on presentation of food. Food is the grace of God and it is one of the fundamental joys humans experience, so it is the chef ’s fundamental role to keep the original and simple flavour of the food intact. Chefs can be artistic with presenting food but they must preserve the identity of the food. What is your number one advice to young student chefs? Passion: You have to be passionate with what you do in order to succeed. Be a Good Listener: Listen to critics before praise in order to improve. Simplicity: You have to be very simple in your work. Cooking skills: Strive to learn the basics first, then to be creative Education: To be updated and follow what is happening in the world. What do you hope to achieve as a board member of SACA? To continue to play a role in the upliftment and transformation of youth education. SACA Meet Kabelo Segone Chef Wineinterest Profile World Sweet Sweets for my Questions about food and wine pairings or just want an excuse to enjoy a glass of wine...contact Cape Wine Master’s student and Chef, Debi van Flymen at chefdvf@yahoo.com I wanted to wish everyone a “sweet” New Year by featuring some of SA’s top dessert wines that feel sensuously decadent. Many people turn up their noses and curl up their tongues at sweet wines without giving the glorious elixirs a second glance. In hindsight, it is these masterpieces that first raised South Africa’s profile on the world’s wine stage. Produced in the oldest winemaking region of the Western Cape from hand harvested sun ripened Muscat de Frontignan grapes, the liquid velvet first made on Constantia Estate in the 18th and 19th century found favour with Napoleon while in exile on the island of St. Helena as easily as it carved a niche in the cellars of Buckingham Palace. A firm favourite of Jane Austen, Charles Dickens and Baudelaire; the place of Vin de Constance is unparalleled in literature when it comes to wines of South African origin. A tumultuous history saw the farm fall into disrepair and the vines were not cultivated for many years before being re-awakened and coaxed back to their heavenly, luscious state today. As a result of our warmer climate and sunny skies, grapes in South Africa ripen fully and left to hang, the sugar levels increase considerably. As the grapes shrivel, the concentration increases. When making quality sweet wines, the balance of sugar and acidity is a key to the unctuous, sweet-sour quality prized in many of these wines. Our sweet wines today are made from many different grape varieties. While relegated to pairing with desserts due to the sweetness, explore some of the savoury options too and embrace the French pairing of the highest quality sweet wines with luxurious foie gras. 58 | CHEF! Issue 28 by Debi van Flymen 2006 Vin de Constance, Klein Constantia This deep amber precious liquid exhibits notes of pear drop, honeysuckle and a heavenly bouquet of apricots along with fresh floral muscat aromas. The palate is opulent and hints of ripe mango, rich honeyed peaches and toasted almond nuttiness all come through on the palate. A vanilla spice and apricots linger with a crisp acidity giving a long, succulent finish. While Vin de Constance will easily age 20 years or more, it is eminently drinkable now. Searching for older vintages can be a tremendous source of culinary inspiration. Food Pairings: Foie Gras Terrine with Granny Smith Apple Gelee, Roast Quail on a Quince and Parsnip Puree with Balsamic Grapefruit, Tarte Tatin or Cardamom Infused Creme Brulee. 2010 Fleurfontein, Keermont If Vin de Constance has a sense of history and longevity, and Eselshoek a sense of unique terroir in ancient vines, then Fleurfontein is a relative newcomer from Stellenbosch. With a total production in the maiden vintage of just one barrel or 580 small bottles, Keermont lies above Waterford and below De Trafford on the mountain side. In order to encourage natural drying out, the stems were pinched while still hanging on the vine stopping the translocation of fluids. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc displays a fresh nose of apple, limes and even summer melons. There is a Sauternes like quality to the honeyed fruit and it is elegantly wound around a central core of acidity. It finishes with a nutty quality and will make fine drinking for the next 12-15 years and has earned 4 Platter stars. Food Pairings: Flourless Chocolate Cake with Lime Creme Fraiche, Roquefort Souffle, Ruby Grapefruit Tart with Edamame Gelato and Black Sesame Snap or Caramelised Fennel Confit with an Orange Vinaigrette and Rocket and Fresh Fennel Salad. 2010 Eselshoek, Sadie Family Wines Sold as part of a boxed set or available all on its own is a truly rare and magical wine from Eben Sadie that could perhaps be from the Cape’s oldest living vines. As the vines get older, they yield less fruit and are often accompanied by a tremendous level of complexity. This parcel of Muscat d’Alexandrie vines in the ‘T Voetpad vineyards is rumoured to have been planted in 1900. The historic “donkey corner” unirrigated spot in the Swartland produces massive sweetness. In 2009, grape bunches were picked and hung under shade nets for three weeks to increase the sugar and protect them from marauding birds. Pressed over two days, the juice extracted was merely 10% of the original volume. With an intriguing provenance and 285 grams per litre of residual sugar (and alcohol of 11.5%) the aromas of caramelised naartjie, soft apple and candied almonds seemingly melt onto the palate. Lingering citrus peel and spice notes round out the experience. This smooth, silky gem is a real treat. Food Pairings: Lavender koeksisters with rooibos semifreddo, Sicilian ricotta cheesecake, Baked Chevre with Hazelnut Crust and Apricot Chutney or Mango Mousse in Almond Praline Wine interest ESTATE Wildekrans Wine Estate Situated in the exciting new wine producing area of Botriver in the Western Cape’s Overberg is Wildekrans, a boutique wine estate that has produced some killer wines since it was bought in 2007. The 1000 hectare estate was originally a mixed farming operation, and though it still produces and exports fruit its main focus has shifted to wine making. Currently 56 hectares of the estate are dedicated to red and white grape vines, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay recently added. The terroir in the region is perfectly suited to create grapes of the highest quality. With the cool Atlantic sea winds blowing off Walker Bay and lean soils, grapes are allowed to reach optimal ripeness while creating the cool climate aromatic profile that the estate’s wines are known for. The boutique winery has won several wine awards since it began making wines, and with the estate currently undergoing renovation and refurbishment, one can only imagine the awards it’ll reap when it’s completed. “We strive to deliver elegant, well balanced fruit driven wines. It’s of utmost importance to maintain absolute quality throughout the range, from our value to our premium wines,” comments William Wilkinson, Wildekrans’s winemaker. Wildekrans also forms part of the Green Mountain Eco Route which is a group of local establishments committed to conservation, sustainability and upliftment, and the first biodiversity wine route. Notable awards that Wildekrans’ wines have won include SA Terroir Awards (Top Sparkling for the MCC 2008, Top Chenin for the Osiris Chenin Blanc BS 2009, Regional Winner for the Top Red Blend for the Cabernet Franc Merlot 2008), a place in the ABSA Top 10 (Osiris Pinotage BS 2008), Veritas Awards (a gold for the Osiris Pinotage BS 2008 and a silver for the Osiris Chenin BS 2008), Monde Selection International Awards (a gold for Osiris Pinotage BS 2008 and a silver for the Osiris Chenin Blanc BS 2009) and Michelangelo International Wine Awards (a double gold for the Osiris Pinotage BS 2009 and a silver for the Osiris Chenin Blanc BS 2010 and Osiris Shiraz BS 2009). Awards won last year include Absa Perold Cape Blend 2011 (Top 3 Best Cape Blends in SA) and SA Young Wine Show 2011 (Osiris Pinotage 2009 a Gold Medal for Best Pinotage in Stellenbosch district). For more information on the estate, visit www.wildekrans.com, email wines@wildekrans.com (Cape Town) or reception@ unihold.co.za (Johannesburg) or phone (028) 284 9902. The Estate can be found on the R43 in Botriver, near Hermanus. Osiris Pinotage Barrel Selection 2009: With its underlying nose of dark plums and raspberry, this wine is deep purple with a ruby edge. Fragrances of frangipani, jasmine and coconut abound , with berries and plums on the palate. Osiris Chenin Blanc Barrel Selection 2010: This cool climate Chenin Blanc has a golden glow with a pale straw shine. With subtle peach fragrances and a slightly citrusy nose, it also shows warm undertones of almond with a finish of apricot, vanilla and grapefruit. Osiris Shiraz Barrel Selection 2009: The shiraz is a unique and complex wine, made with a special selection of first fill barrels. It has a dark black centre with a purple edge , a complex nose of cloves, lavender and deep dark fruits with freshness coming from spearmint. On the palate you’ll find black cherries, dark chocolate and smooth, round tannins. Cabernet Franc Merlot 2009: This red blend is a lighter garnet with a red ruby edge on the eye and bell peppers, cinnamon and plums on the nose. The palate is an interesting one, with a mix of mulberry, ripe cherries and coconut complemented by the toasted flavour of oak barrel maturation. CHEF! Issue 28 | 59 opinion Chef Profile Bills of Endearment Brian McCune I ’m old enough to remember the halcyon days in the restaurant business before they introduced computerisation to waitrons (God, I hate that word). It wasn’t quite as long ago as the typical Dickensian scene with clerks perched at high desks flipping through giant ledgers and scratching quill pens across the pages but waitresses were still called waitresses, they had their hair tied back neatly and the only piercing tolerated was when you attacked the crisp roast duck skin with a sharp fork. Then along came some ponytail who convinced the restaurant trade to computerise, get rid of the cashier with the beautiful script, save money, make the waitrons work harder and implement strict cash and stock controls all in one fell swoop. At the same time service staff were encouraged to do away with those little docket pads and input the orders directly into the computer thus saving more paper, costs and time and affording them the perfect excuse to screw up your order. There was a desk, normally at the door of the restaurant, where the cashier sat and manually matched together copies of dockets to keep a running total on your gustatory activities as the evening progressed. At the conclusion of your meal a neatly handwritten bill would be presented for your scrutiny and final approval. Happy days! Notice no mention of improving the dining experience for the customer in this scenario. Now my theory is that lots of waitresses are frustrated writers who are now forced to be data capturers and it’s based on the fact that every time I get my bill spewed out by the incessant computer printer it’s festooned with terms of endearment from the bloody waitress! Whatever are these girls thinking? There are little messages of thanks for being a wonderful customer from Tamsin or Tarryn, stylised hearts drawn by Natalie or Natasha, slogans like “You’re the best” penned by Samantha and Simone. I understand that this is the only opportunity they get to use a pen the whole evening but it’s dangerous territory – I’m lucky, I eat out 95% of the time with my wife - what would happen if I came home with these billets doux scrunched up in my pockets and she found them? How could I possibly explain away the almost child like writing? Please let’s have the cashier back who never got familiar with the guests, at least she always gave you a lovely smile as you left the restaurant. Culinary Musings by Chef Brian McCune 60 | CHEF! Issue 28 The Blingiest Cheese The cheesemasters at British dairy Long Clawsons wanted to get their hands on some of that sweet, sweet money this past holiday season, so what did they do? Pumped their white Stilton full of gold, naturally. According to their website, “Long Clawson Stilton Gold is made from premium white Stilton and is shot-through with a combination of real edible gold leaf, and real gold-Cinnamon Schnapps” Anyway, that boozy, cinnamony, Stiltony cheese came with a hefty price tag: £60 per 100g slice (about R 7500 per kg). No chance of us mere mortals getting a sliver though, as Britain’s so-called “blingiest cheese” only went to famous people. A spokeswoman said “For confidentiality reasons I can’t publicly identify the people who have inquired about our Clawson Stilton Gold but, suffice to say, they are all very well known.” Of course if you were stupid enough to pay that price for a lump of cheese then you wouldn’t want everyone to know now would you? Urine Trouble Police were called to a London crown court after judges and barristers allegedly had their lunches spiked with urine. The investigation was launched when lawyers complained the food smelled “a bit off”, with urine traces later found in soups, salads and sandwiches. A dining room, used by lawyers and known as the advocates’ lounge, was closed. The court’s meals are provided by caterers Eurest Services. A spokeswoman for the company stated “Hygiene inspectors started an investigation. People are worried there might be someone working in the kitchens with a serious grudge against the legal system.” Something must have pissed them off! last word A Quick Chat with Tanja Kruger Chef Tanja Kruger from Culinary Team SA recently took up the position of Executive Chef at Majeka House’s Makaron restaurant in Stellenbosch, a restaurant which has just won a Style Award in the Eat Out awards. How are you enjoying being at Makaron? I have never been so happy in my life. I feel like I have found my little place in the sun and that this is the place where all my dreams will come true! Any challenges? What’s new and exciting about the restaurant? There are always challenges where ever you go. My biggest one was to get to know the staff and their capabilities. I worked with staff that I knew and trusted for 5 years before I came here, but this was a clean slate and I’m loving all of them. Makaron just won the Boschendal style award, which is very exciting and a mix of antique and ultra-modern is something that is really inspiring my food at the moment. Guests can look forward to a new menu soon! Favourite Dish on the Menu? My favourite is the study of lamb (nose to tail) with beetroot purée, mint sauce caviar and port jus. Have you found any great producers that you’d like to share with us? My favourite dish is inspired by my favourite local producer, farmer Angus McIntosh, from Spier Biodynamic farm. Angus does biodynamical farming where he produces pasture-reared and happy beef, chickens, eggs and lamb (my favourite). I use all of his ingredients on my menu at the moment. There is nothing better in this country. Stellenbosch has great local producers anyway, so I count myself very lucky to be in this area! What are your views on foraging? At Hunter’s Lodge (in Plettenberg Bay) I was always the crazy chef that climbed trees for nuts and picked mushrooms in the forest. I have lost a bit of that now that I no longer work on a farm, but I love going out to forage for ingredients (even if it’s just in our own garden or fruit trees at Makaron) and I do believe that food is heading in that direction anyway. What is your favourite way to cook with: Coconut: I love putting toasted coconut shavings into basmati rice, it gives a great texture contrast and amazing flavour especially with curries. Hake: This is one of my favourite fish and very under-used! Really fresh hake is great just pan-seared with a bit of butter and a squeeze of lemon. Hazelnuts: Homemade chocolate and hazelnut spread is delicious! Mozzarella: I love just tearing apart mozzarella with some tomatoes and basil from the garden, with some good olive oil and fresh black pepper. Honey: Burnt honey ice cream with a little bit of Maldon sea salt. Favourite local restaurants to eat at? I am in love with The Test Kitchen by Chef Luke Dale Roberts, but for something simpler I love Cafe Royale for their burgers and Genki in Stellenbosch for their sushi. Most memorable dish you’ve eaten? At a small B&B in the middle of the black forest we had amazing homemade bread, cheese fondue, black forest ham and trout from the area...all washed down with local German beer. It was beautiful and quiet and it felt like I was in a fairy tale. It was the entire meal, not just one dish! What do you do on your days off? I don’t know quite what you mean with “off days”. They don’t really feature in my life! CHEF! Issue 28 | 61 pod15887