Audley North Africa - COVER

Transcription

NORTH AFRICA
& ARABIA
MOROCCO
EGYPT
JORDAN
OMAN
LIBYA
TA I LO R - M A D E J O U R N E Y S
FOR
THE
D I S C E R N I N G T RAV E LL E R
Dear Traveller
Our second North Africa & Arabia
brochure takes us deeper into this
fascinating part of the world, with the
inclusion of Libya and Oman. In my
opinion, no two countries greater
represent what is best about the region:
they are phenomenally rich in heritage,
scenically outstanding and welcome
visitors with a proud, friendly smile. I am
also very excited to be able to offer
programmes to these countries because it
gives people the chance to challenge
preconceived notions about the area and
discover for themselves how ill-founded
they are.
Our established destinations continue to
flourish. Egypt is as popular as ever, and
now enlivened with the addition of some
desert trips for the more adventurous. In
Morocco our portfolio of fantastic riads
grows ever more comprehensive and we
are also pioneering travel into new areas
such as the Sous-Massa National Park.
Our Jordan coverage remains far-reaching
and it is a pleasure to renew our
commitment to the Royal Society for the
Meknes, Morocco
Conservation of Nature there, an
organisation right at the forefront of
Audley Travel
A journey to suit you
Audley Travel was established by Craig
Burkinshaw with the simple philosophy of offering
clients the best possible travel experiences. Craig
recognised that the only way of achieving this was
to have specialists with detailed, in-depth
knowledge of the countries we visit backed by a
no-compromise attitude to quality and service.
Audley now offers a comprehensive range of
programmes throughout Asia, Africa, Latin
America and Australasia.
You may wish to travel for all sorts of reasons,
whether to explore the culture and history of a
region, view wildlife, discover spectacular scenery
or simply to relax. For many Audley clients it is a
combination of all these, while others have more
specialised interests such as photography, rail
journeys or trekking in magnificent landscapes.
Whatever you want from your trip, we can use
our detailed knowledge to plan your ideal
itinerary.
Careful planning
Tailor-made travel
Our North Africa & Arabia specialists have all
travelled extensively throughout the region and in
many cases have lived there, so you can rely on
their first-hand knowledge. They have boundless
enthusiasm for their chosen countries and take an
honest "tell it how it is" approach to planning an
itinerary, suggesting sights, selecting
accommodation and discussing the practicalities of
travel. We also insist that they regularly revisit the
region, meticulously inspect hotels and keep up to
date with all travel-related issues. We believe this
approach is unique to Audley and ultimately
ensures that you will have the best possible travel
experience.
The joy of tailor-made travel is that your
complete holiday is designed around your own
requirements, so you are not tied to the set
itinerary of a group. This allows you to explore at
your own pace and select accommodation that
suits your needs, with our specialist knowledge at
your disposal to perfect your travel plans.
Throughout the brochure you will find suggested
itineraries designed by our specialists to suit the
needs of most travellers. Each one can be
adjusted to accommodate your specific tastes
and interests, or we can plan a completely new
trip to match your own requirements.
Middle Eastern conservation.
It is my firm belief that travel to this
remarkable region will not disappoint. It
retains the allure that made it the key
region of the world for so much of history,
and will engage and stimulate you
throughout a visit. It is also my belief that
thanks to our extensive travels in the region
and our enthusiasm for it, we are best
placed to provide you with the perfect trip.
Craig Burkinshaw
Managing Director
2
Ait Benhaddou
How to plan your journey
with Audley
Financial Security
You can book with us confident in the knowledge
that we are fully bonded with the Civil Aviation
Authority (CAA) who have issued us with an Air
Travel Organiser’s Licence (ATOL 4817) which
means that your money is 100% safe when you
book. Our ATOL bonding protects all your
arrangements that include a flight. All other
arrangements booked from this brochure that
exclude a flight are protected by our ABTA
(W8501) bonding. If you would like to discuss
financial protection, please call us and we will be
happy to explain how either scheme operates.
We suggest that you read through the brochure
to obtain a feel for this region's fascinating and
unique travel possibilities. Once you have an idea
of the type of trip you want to take, or want
some general guidance, call one of our specialists
on 01993 838 400. They will answer any
questions you have and discuss your travel plans
and ideas in detail, making suggestions where
appropriate. We will then send you a detailed
itinerary complete with maps, accommodation
information, colour photographs and a price.
Once you have read through the itinerary we will
answer any further questions and refine the tour
until you are totally satisfied. The booking process
starts when we receive your deposit and booking
form, at which point we can start to confirm your
travel arrangements. The same Audley specialist
will be handling your trip from start to finish:
please feel free to call them at any time.
Contents
Introduction
Morocco
2-5
6-19
Egypt
20-35
Jordan
36-43
Oman
44-53
Libya
54-57
Hebridean Cruises
58-59
3
Sultan Qaboos Mosque, Muscat
Climate
Broadly speaking the regional climate is one of hot
summers and mild winters. Much of the region is
desert, where temperatures can reach well into
the forties celsius during the summer. However
the heat is nearly always a dry heat so for those
who can tolerate higher temperatures, it should
not pose a complete barrier to travel. Winters in
much of the region do get a certain amount of
rainfall, although it tends to be short, sharp
showers rather than prolonged drizzle. The
Mediterranean and Atlantic exert a moderating
influence on the coastal climates, and the
mountains, especially in Morocco, are considerably
cooler than the rest of the country, even
experiencing significant snowfall in the winter. In
general, spring and autumn are the best time to
travel, right across the region.
Accommodation
Styles of accommodation vary greatly across the
region although standards are generally high.
Morocco has the most interesting accommodation
options, with its wide array of riads. These are
converted townhouses deep in the medinas of
Morocco’s ancient cities that are small, intimate
and showcase the best of traditional architecture
and design. In Egypt and Jordan hotels tend to be
4
international four and five-star chain hotels which
are very comfortable and have plenty of facilities.
Nods are made towards traditional architecture
although they are not imbued with local character
- there are some notable exceptions such as the
old palaces of Egypt and Feynan Lodge in Jordan.
Nile cruises offer a variety of styles, from the
understated glamour of an Edwardian paddle
steamer, to those with more modern trappings of
luxury such as marble floors and sweeping
staircases. Oman has a wide array of luxury hotels
in Muscat. Most are quite grand, and international
in flavour, whilst one or two have much more
style and character, such as the Chedi. Outside of
Muscat accommodation is fairly basic, although
always clean and comfortable. The same can be
said for most of Libya, although the general
standard here is basic: people do not travel to
Libya for the quality and character of the hotels
and camps there!
Oranges, Morocco
Local Culture & Etiquette
All of the countries in this brochure are Islamic
and this means a certain amount of cultural
sensitivity is required when visiting any of them.
The level of conservatism varies from country to
country, and some have had greater exposure to
European visitors than others so the degree of
moderation you need to display does vary and
our specialists can advise you on this. There are
some general rules that you should always apply
however. Ladies should not wear tight or
revealing clothing, and it is always advisable to
keep the shoulders and upper arms covered, as
well as wearing shorts or skirts and dresses that
reach at least to the knee. Men should always
wear a shirt or t-shirt; in some places shorts are
acceptable, in others trousers are a better option.
Where it is possible to visit a mosque, always
cover the shoulders, arms and legs. You will
normally also be required to take your shoes off
and ladies may be required to cover their heads: a
scarf is suitable for this purpose. Ramadan, the
month of fasting, is a time when things slow down
a bit during the day and opening hours are
curtailed, although it is perfectly fine to travel in
some countries during Ramadan. Consult your
specialist for more advice on the country you are
considering travelling to.
Scarab Beetles, Egypt
Snake charmer, Marrakesh
Tea in Morrocco
Cuisine
through the Audley Charity Portfolio.
Please see www.audleytravel.com for more
details. Within North Africa & Arabia there are a
number of responsible ventures we are involved
with. In Jordan we are corporate members
of the Royal Society for the Conservation of
Nature, and a trip here can include visits to
their reserves and the Wild Jordan centre in
Amman. In Morocco we have links with various
associations that work to improve local
communities, as well as working closely with the
Kasbah Du Toubkal, a Responsible Tourism award
winner and the base for our charity trek up Jebel
Toubkal in 2007.
Group Travel
www.audleytravel.com
We use a range of airlines to North Africa &
Arabia. British Airways flies to all the countries
featured in this programme, and of course has
excellent regional connections within the UK: often
the flights are operated by a franchise holder - the
experience of the passenger is no different to any
other BA flight. We also use the national carriers of
certain countries: Egypt Air, Royal Jordanian and
Royal Air Maroc. As a rule, these tend to have the
best take-off times at their home airports and also,
where applicable, offer access to reduced rates on
domestic routes. We also work with Qatar
Airways, Emirates and Gulf Air for flights to Oman.
As well as being great airlines, these also open up
the possibility of combining Oman with a few days
in one of the Gulf cities such as Dubai. All these
airlines have Business or Club Class upgrades
available. For further details please refer to the
flights leaflet enclosed with this brochure.
Cuisine in the Arab world can be some of the
most interesting and tasty around. Lebanese
influence can be found across the region, and the
formula of a selection of starters (mezze)
followed by a main course accompanied by rice
or couscous is very common, especially in Egypt
and Jordan. Morocco has superb food, with the
local specialities of tajine (a type of stew) and
couscous being internationally recognised. Such is
the interest in Moroccan cuisine that there are a
number of cookery courses that can be
incorporated into a visit to Morocco. There isn’t
really a recognisable Omani cuisine. Indian food is
popular, and Lebanese outlets can be found in
most places. In addition there is a range of
restaurants specialising in a variety of international
cuisines in Muscat.
Responsible Travel
We are passionate about the countries we
specialise in, and have always been firmly
committed to the principles of ethical travel and
sustainability. Our Responsible Tourism policy has
been awarded Three Stars – the maximum
possible – by AITO, and we have drawn up a
Travellers’ Code which will help you to ensure
your trip does not threaten the sustainability of
the places you visit. We make an annual
contribution to Friends of Conservation to
offset the carbon emissions from our specialists’
trips, and we support a variety of good causes
If you are looking for travel inspiration, Audley’s
website is full of journey ideas, month-by-month
suggestions, destination guides, slideshows,
exclusive articles and special features, responsible
tourism details and a useful travel information
section.
Terms & Conditions and
Travel Insurance
Your booking is subject to the Terms and
Conditions of Audley Travel, which are detailed in
a separate leaflet. It is vital that you have adequate
travel insurance and we are able to offer a
number of policies either for the duration of your
trip or on an annual basis.
If you wish to travel with a group of friends maybe with a common special interest - we can
make all the arrangements. For larger groups we
may be able to offer a free place to the organiser.
Please call us to discuss your plans. In addition, we
are also now running group tours to Libya, a
destination where groups have proved by far the
most popular way to travel. For further details
please contact one of our Libya Specialists on
01993 838 435.
Flights
5
Morocco
A
6
lthough less than four hours flying time
that carve through arid landscapes, vast palm
Arabian soldiers, and mighty Berber dynasties:
from the UK, Morocco really is a world
plantations surround fortified villages petering
all have left a remarkable legacy. Ruins,
away. Walking through the narrow alleys of
out where the first tendrils of the Sahara rear
mosaics, tombs and mosques all speak of a long
centuries-old medinas, encircled with solid
up in golden dunes under clear desert skies. As
and chequered past, while also forming an
ramparts, the cries of artisans and craftsmen
you pass through the country, the people you
intrinsic part of Morocco’s present. The legacy
ring through the air, and vivid colours and
meet form one of the highlights of your time,
is not just a physical presence: Moroccan
smells swirl around you. Outside the cities,
from the men in their distinctive hooded coats,
cuisine is also witness to her multicultural
towering mountains are home to hardy
to the smiling women going about their daily
history. Traditional Arab influences are
Berbers, their villages seemingly inaccessible,
business. Morocco’s history has seen Roman
overlaid with French touches, and indigenous
surrounded by steeply terraced fields. In valleys
invasions, the advent of Islam borne by
Berber flavours.
Audley in Morocco
As little as three hours flying time from London,
Morocco is a very accessible destination, whether
you want to spend a few days in and around
Marrakesh or Fez, or take a comprehensive twoweek tour of the country. Travel can be by
private vehicle or less expensively on trains, which
are punctual and relatively clean. Private guides
can accompany you throughout your itinerary,
and we also occasionally use local guides for
certain monuments and regions. For those looking
for something a bit more adventurous or active,
we can arrange treks in the Atlas Mountains
(including ascents of Jebel Toubkal) or the chance
to camp on the fringes of the Sahara Desert.
Being a Muslim country, certain key dates and
festivals such as the month of Ramadan and the
Eid festivals can make a difference to your travel
plans. By checking each year’s Islamic calendar we
can make sure your trip is planned taking into
account such events.
Traditional pottery
Accommodation and Riads
Climate
We focus either on internationally recognised
hotel chains which cater for individuals and small
groups, or on riads, Morocco’s unique style of
charming private homes offering accommodation
to just a few guests. Staying in a riad is one of the
highlights of a trip to Morocco; the typical design
has rooms opening off an enclosed courtyard
with a garden or cooling fountains. Typically small,
from four to 20 rooms, they are furnished in a
mixture of traditional and modern Frenchinfluenced styles. Normally they will offer
breakfast but many do not have restaurants,
though this is not a problem when your hosts can
recommend excellent local establishments. The
variety of riads is huge, and we have visited a
great number. We have included just a sample of
the many available on the following pages, and by
talking to one of our specialists you are sure to
find those that perfectly suit your requirements.
Morocco can be roughly divided into three
climatic regions: the higher interior of the Rif and
Atlas mountain ranges, the coast, and the desert
areas of the south. Throughout the country, the
temperature varies considerably over the course
of a day, and a sweater may be necessary even
on a summer evening, whilst winter temperatures
can fall low enough for frost and snow on the
mountain tops. Rain does fall during the winter,
although not often and seldom in large amounts.
The coastal regions can be visited year-round; in
the winter they are pleasantly mild, and bask in
mid-twenties celsius temperatures in the summer.
The high interior can also be visited year-round,
although it does get cold in winter, with averages
in the late teens celsius. The southern desert
areas experience similar climate to the high
interior, although temperatures are hot, reaching
an average of up to 40C in summer.
Cuisine
Moroccan food is one of the great pleasures of
travelling around the country. Whether you eat in
a restaurant or at a small soup stall in the souq,
you will be delighted with the fresh ingredients
and unique flavours. Perhaps the most unusual
dish is pastilla which is minced pigeon meat and
sweet spices such as cinnamon between layers of
flaky pastry, and usually topped with a dusting of
sugar. As strange as the combination may sound,
the contrast of sweet and savoury is fantastically
tasty. The national dishes are tajine and couscous.
Tajine refers to the conical pots in which a
mutton stew is normally cooked. Again,
ingredients such as dates blend sweet flavours
into a savoury dish. Couscous is semolina-like
grains of half-baked flour that are repeatedly
steamed and oiled, so the grains do not stick
together. There are cookery courses available at
certain riads for those who want to learn more.
Morocco
Mpumalanga & The Kruger Park
Telephone: 01993
01869 276
838 250
420
7
Musicians at Marrakesh festival
Marrakesh
Marrakesh is a fabled city and one of the most
evocative names in African travel. Over its
turbulent thousand-year history the city has fallen
in and out of favour with the ruling sultans,
although its function as a market has continued
regardless. Today it is the medina that defines
Marrakesh, a sprawling lattice of narrow alleyways
resounding to the manufacture and sale of
countless goods. At its heart is the Djema El Fna,
an open space that comes alive at night, packed
with entertainers and soothsayers. Interspersed
amongst all the activities are proud and beautiful
reminders of the city’s past in towering minarets,
ornate tombs and cavernous palaces, all encircled
by ochre ramparts, against the distant backdrop of
the imposing Atlas Mountains.
DAR LES CIGOGNES, MARRAKESH
On a busy street in the heart of the medina is a
small door that opens onto a haven of Moorish
sophistication. Traditional tadelakht walls (smooth
earthen construction) are complemented by
carved alabaster surrounds and cool white colour.
Although small, the superb styling is very simple
and gives an impression of greater space. Dar Les
Cigognes offers traditional design and great
attention to detail at an affordable price.
Dar Les Cigognes
RIAD NOGA, MARRAKESH
Riad Noga
8
At the end of a residential street in the medina,
Riad Noga charmingly combines traditional and
modern aspects of Moroccan architecture and
design. Rich red walls hide intimate rooms that
open onto various courtyards and terraces. At the
heart lie two central courtyards, one a peaceful
area to sit and relax, the other containing a pool
flanked by a wonderful Moorish arcade. Bright
colours infuse the classic design with a breath of
fresh air, whilst the roof provides an area to
unwind in the sun.
Riad Kniza
A Moroccan
Introduction
This itinerary is a very popular shorter break
which combines the dynamic city of Marrakesh
with the more relaxing town of Essaouira. Starting
in Marrakesh you have a few days to explore this
Imperial city, with its bustling souqs, iconic
ramparts and famous Djema El Fna square. You
continue on to Essaouira. Unlike anywhere else in
Morocco, Essaouira combines a very unhurried
approach to life with a wonderful beach location
and impressive, brooding Portuguese fortifications.
You conclude with a night in Marrakesh for any
last minute shopping.
Carpets hanging in Marrakesh medina
RIAD KNIZA, MARRAKESH
Owned by a renowned Marrakesh antiques dealer,
Riad Kniza is a trove of traditional Moroccan
treasure. Attractive antiques and furnishings typical
of a wealthy 19th century merchant have been
chosen discerningly to avoid cluttering the riad and
making the style overbearing. There are just seven
rooms and suites entered through large, intricately
carved doors. Inside the rooms are much lighter
and feel more spacious than at many riads, and the
smooth tadelakht walls of the bathroom are
cooling and, like the rest of the riad, finished to the
highest standards. As Riad Kniza is so small, the
service is exemplary, and the location, in the
medina and within walking distance of its major
sights, is another attraction.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Marrakesh to be
met on arrival and transferred to
your riad for a three-night stay.
Day 2
Full-day private guided tour of
Marrakesh.
Day 3
At leisure to shop and explore.
Day 4
You will be driven to Essaouira for a
three-night stay.
Day 5
Relax and enjoy your time at leisure.
Day 6
Enjoy the beach and wonder round
the atmospheric town. Be sure to
sample the excellent local seafood!
Day 7
Transfer back to Marrakesh for your
final night.
Day 8
You will be taken to the airport for
your flight back to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
JARDINS
DE LA
MEDINA,
MARRAKESH
In the southwest of the medina, not too far from
the Saadien Tombs and the Agdal Gardens, Les
Jardins de la Medina combines a boutique hotel
with traditional architecture and consistently high
standards. At the heart of the hotel is a large
courtyard, filled with vibrant greenery sheltering a
pool. The use of adobe walls and earthen colours
reinforces the African feel of this hotel, whilst
modern comfortable furnishings in each of the 36
rooms ensure a comfortable night. For those
upgrading their rooms, there are private terraces
to look forward to, whilst all rooms, as in a
traditional riad, face into the courtyard and not
out onto the busy streets.
An unusual and interesting way to extend this trip
would be to travel from Essaouira down to the
Sous-Massa National Park. A few days in this area
would allow you to see some of the prolific
birdlife as well as exploring the villages of the Anti
Atlas and Tafraoute oasis. You could then either
fly home from Agadir or work your way back up
to Marrakesh via the pretty market town of
Taroudant.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
Our private tailor-made journeys offer complete
freedom of choice. The itineraries and
accommodation shown are designed to give you a
flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to
suit your preferences. Prices vary according to
selected accommodation and season, please
telephone us to discuss your individual
requirements.
Morocco
Telephone: 01993 838 420
Jardins de la Medina
9
The High Atlas Mountains
The Atlas Mountains
The Atlas Mountains are in fact three distinct
ranges that divide the interior of the country into
strips of lower lying land. The Middle Atlas are
the furthest north, whilst furthest south are the
Anti-Atlas that almost cut the desolate Western
Sahara off from the rest of the country. It is the
High Atlas that is the most dramatic, containing
North Africa’s highest peak - the 4,167 metre
Jebel Toubkal - as well as countless Berber villages
terraced onto inaccessible ledges and perfectly
preserving a tenacious culture. Trekking is easily
arranged, and can be anything from a day’s walk
into the foothills to a trek lasting several days. The
ascent of Toubkal is a favourite, requiring no
technical expertise but a good level of fitness. The
High Atlas are easily accessed from Marrakesh,
about 40 minutes away, and offer a wonderful
mountain retreat.
KASBAH TAMADOT, HIGH ATLAS
A recent addition to Richard Branson’s stable of
hotels, Kasbah Tamadot was painstakingly restored
over a number of years. No expense has been
spared in furnishing this remarkable building and
filling it with the finest examples of traditional and
Asian design and art. Ornate lamps and carved
decoration compete with the stunning mountain
backdrop for attention, and each of the 18 rooms
and suites has been individually furnished.
10
Kasbah du Toubkal, High Atlas
KASBAH DU TOUBKAL,
HIGH ATLAS
Located at the base of Jebel Toubkal, this remote
hotel is the perfect base for exploring the Atlas
Mountains and getting to grips with Berber
culture. The hotel is built entirely on traditional
lines, with plaster walls and wooden ceilings.
Decoration is simple, and also in local style. The
hotel features a hammam, a traditional Moroccan
steam-bath, which is the perfect way to unwind
after time spent exploring in the mountains,
before retiring to the roof terrace for a delicious
tajine (Moroccan stew) or a quiet mint tea as you
bask in the inspiring scenery. As well as guided
walks into the surrounding mountains, you can
also visit nearby villages and hamlets that are
home to many of the staff. The Kasbah has
impeccable eco-tourism credentials: as well as its
traditional restoration and employment of staff
from the surrounding area, it also is a major force
in the local "Association of the Valleys of Imlil".
Marrakesh and
the Mountains
Boasting the highest mountain in North Africa,
The High Atlas certainly has some spectacular
scenery and fantastic opportunities for trekking
and walking. Easily accessed from Marrakesh, the
wonderful mountain retreats provide a welcome
rest from the hustle and bustle of the city and a
chance to get out and explore some of the local
countryside.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to be met on arrival
in Marrakesh and transferred to your
riad for three nights.
Day 2
Marrakesh.
Day 3
At leisure.
Day 4
Transfer to the High Atlas for three
nights at either Kasbah Du Toubkal
or Kasbah Tamadot.
Days 5-6
Relax, take gentle walks in the
surrounding hills or arrange more
arduous treks.
Day 7
Transfer back to Marrakesh for your
return flight to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
It is possible to extend your trip by spending a
couple of days in Essaouira, giving you the chance
to relax by the sea in this laid-back, atmospheric
town enjoying the excellent seafood.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
Fishermen, Essaouira
requirements.
Kasbah Tamadot, High Atlas
Essaouira
Essaouira lies on the Atlantic coast in the west of
Morocco and is one of the most picturesque
towns in the country. The Sultan Sidi Mohammed
had a captive Frenchman design the town and
promoted trade, making Essaouira a cosmopolitan
commercial centre. The fortifications that ring the
city provided a haunting backdrop for Orson
Welles’ Othello; built by the Portuguese, these
are intrinsic to the charm of Essaouira. Other
attractions include the port, bringing in fresh fish
each day, and the tremendous beach that
stretches away to the south. The easygoing nature
of the town, the dramatic ramparts and the beach
with its excellent windsurfing have combined to
attract artists and hippies for years, creating a
bohemian atmosphere quite different to the rest
of the country.
Dar Loulema, Essaouira
DAR LOULEMA, ESSAOUIRA
Just off the main square, and nestling behind the
famous ramparts of Essaouira, Dar Loulema
enjoys an enviable location, and rooftop views of
the Atlantic. The riad is quite small, with just
seven rooms spread across three floors around a
central courtyard. Much of the hotel is
whitewashed, with each room decorated in bright
blues and yellows.
Medina walls, Essaouira
Morocco
Telephone:
Telephone: 01869
01993 276
838 250
420
Atlantic coast
11
Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca
Casablanca
Thanks in part to the famous film of the same
name, Casablanca features largely in many
people’s thoughts of Morocco. In truth, none of
the film was shot here and much of the city is like
ports everywhere: quite crowded, industrial and
full of thirsty sailors. It is a major hub, however,
for international flights and it is likely to feature
somewhere on your itinerary. While not offering
much cause to linger, it is the home of the
Hassan II Mosque. Built by the previous king using
donations from the public, it is one of the largest
mosques in the world and contains a prayer hall
three times the size of St Paul’s Cathedral.
LE ROYAL MANSOUR,
CASABLANCA
Le Royal Mansour is a haven of refined European
elegance. It occupies a good central position
within Casablanca, and has all the amenities and
facilities you would expect in an international fivestar hotel. It does not have as much character as
other hotels you will stay in whilst in Morocco,
but it will provide a comfortable and reliable place
to stay whilst in Casablanca
VILLA MANDARINE, RABAT
Mosaic fountain, Casablanca
The Villa Mandarine is a charming, sunlit villa
surrounded by two hectares of orange groves, 15
minutes drive from the centre of Rabat. The
gardens are a wonderful place to stroll and relax
with flowers blooming on every corner and lemon
and grapefruit trees dispersed amongst the Seville
oranges. The colourful, comfortable rooms have
been individually decorated and display pieces of
artwork which have been carefully chosen to
compliment the character of each room. The
rooms have a private terrace where breakfast can
be taken in the first rays of the morning sun.
Rabat
Rabat, the capital of Morocco, shows two distinct
faces: the modern, French-inspired town, with
wide tree-lined boulevards, cafes and bistros
peopled by hard-working government officials;
and historic Rabat, centred on the 12th-century
walled medina of the Almohad sultans. Here, a
forest of columns and the lower section of a huge
Moroccan-style minaret are all that remain of
Sultan Yacoub el Mansour’s attempt to build a
mosque that was designed to rival that of
Samarra in Iraq. Slightly further from the centre of
town is the Chellah - the tombs of the Merenid
dynasty - now a wonderfully atmospheric,
crumbling set of ruins.
Villa Mandarine
12
Grand Tour
of Morocco
This comprehensive itinerary encompasses the best
Morocco has to offer. You start in Casablanca with
a visit to the Hassan II Mosque before travelling to
Rabat, the relaxed capital city. Inland from Rabat,
explore Meknes and the Roman city of Voloubilis
before arriving at the venerable city of Fez, home
to many Islamic monuments and one of the best
souqs in Morocco. Travel south across the Atlas
Mountains through the sand dunes of the Sahara,
before driving west along the Dades Valley past
towering gorges, vast palm plantations and rainwashed pisé kasbahs. After a rest in Ouarzazate,
trek through the stark beauty of the High Atlas.
Conclude with time on the beach at Essaouira and
a final few days in legendary Marrakesh.
Day 1
Fly from the UK. Transfer on arrival
in Casablanca to your hotel for an
overnight stay.
Day 2
Drive to Rabat and spend some
time exploring the city. Spend the
night in Rabat.
Day 3
Continue inland to Fez, stopping en
route to visit Meknes and Voloubilis.
Spend two nights in Fez.
Day 4
Full-day private guided tour of Fez.
Day 5
Set off south across the Atlas
Mountains to Erfoud, where you
spend the night.
Day 6
Up early to visit the sand dunes of
the Erg Chebbi, before driving along
the Dades Valley, visiting the Todra
Gorge and arriving in Ouarzazate for
a two-night stay.
Day 7
A day to relax in Ouarzazate,
perhaps taking an excursion down
the Draa Valley or to the nearby
kasbahs of Taourirt and Tiffoultoute.
Day 8
Drive over the Tizi-n-Test pass to
the High Atlas Mountains for two
nights.
Day 9
Day at leisure to relax or to go
trekking.
Day 10
Drive to Essaouira to relax for a
couple of days.
Day 11
At leisure.
Day 12
Drive to Marrakesh and spend three
nights in a riad.
Day 13
Marrakesh.
Day 14
At leisure to explore and shop.
Day 15
Fly back to the UK.
Local street, Chefchaouen
The Rif Mountains
Separating the bulk of Morocco from the
Mediterranean, the Rif Mountains have a long and
turbulent history. Few rulers have ever completely
subdued the tribes of the Rif, and some areas are
still risky due to the kif-growing industry that
predominates (marijuana being one of the few
plants that will grow in the infertile soil). Most
visitors head to Chefchaouen, the most visitorfriendly town of the region, but no less pretty for
it. Located between high twin peaks, the town’s
beautiful medina of whitewashed walls and red
tiled roofs dates back to the heyday of the
Andalucian Empire.
VILLA JOSEPHINE, TANGIERS
Villa Josephine is an 11-room, 19th-century
French villa that recently opened as a hotel. Its
dark wood panelling and parquet floors are
warmed up with rich Moroccan rugs and quirky
oil paintings. The Villa Josephine remains one of
the most spectacular and prestigious properties in
Tangiers, with French-style service, an elegant
dining area (serving Moroccan and French cuisine)
and a swimming pool set in the middle of a
tropical garden, all just 10 minutes from the
bustling central medina and the kasbah. Your stay
in Tangiers couldn’t be more romantic.
Tangiers
For many years Tangiers enjoyed the status of an
International Free Zone, free from normal rule,
which helped create a raffish and cosmopolitan
society. Something of this spirit lingers and life in
Tangiers perhaps has more of an edge than
anywhere else in Morocco. There is an attractive
old medina, which has not just Islamic and Berber
influence but also some wonderful examples of
Art Deco architecture from the city’s louche days
of yesteryear.
Morocco
Telephone: 01993 838 420
Villa Josephine
13
The Erg Chebbi
Fez
Periodically capital of Morocco, the city of Fez has
always occupied a place at the spiritual and
political heart of the country. Founded in the ninth
century, many of the early settlers were Islamic
refugees fleeing neighbouring Tunisia and they
established the Kairaouiyne Mosque, a spiritual
and intellectual powerhouse of the Islamic world.
The medina and souqs are probably the best in
Morocco, truly labyrinthine, assaulting the senses
with new sounds, exotic scents and an intense
experience unlikely to be rivalled elsewhere.
RIAD MABROUKA, FEZ
With friendly and helpful staff, an enthusiastic and
knowledgeable owner in Michel Trezzy, and a
wonderful location, your stay at this riad will be
memorable. Located in the heart of the ancient
medina, the traditional Moroccan decor of the
riad has a definite Andalusian influence. The
interior courtyard has sculpted plasterwork on the
columns, wonderful cedar wooden doors and
typical Moroccan mosaics, and opens onto a small
garden with roses and citrus trees with a small
pool in one corner.
RIAD FES, FEZ
Fassis - residents of Fez - describe their city in
terms of walls: from the outside you will never
understand her, but once within them you will get
to know and love the real Fez. This sums up the
Riad Fes perfectly as it is located in one of Fez’s
narrow alleys, the high blank walls giving no clue
as to what lies inside. Once through the door, a
delightful paradise opens up, with a beautiful
courtyard at the heart of the hotel. Delicate
tilework defines the riad, and the blue and white
colours create a wonderfully tranquil air. The 21
rooms and suites are appointed with fin-de-siècle
period pieces that evoke the grand living of rich
Fassi merchants.
Riad Fes
14
Riad Mabrouka
Ancient
Grand Tour
of Morocco
Imperial
Cities
This itinerary has been designed for those wishing
to immerse themselves in the rich history and
culture of the Imperial Cities. Starting in
Casablanca, you will discover the fascinating
imprints left by ancient civilizations as you travel
on to the capital, Rabat. The next stop on the trail
takes you to Fez via the imperial city of Meknes.
After time to explore Fez, you travel south to the
dynamic city of Marrakesh.
Tanneries, Fez
Day 1
Fly to Casablanca and transfer to
your hotel for an overnight stay.
Day 2
Explore Hassan II Mosque before
you transfer to Rabat for a two-night
stay.
Day 3
Day at leisure to explore Rabat.
Day 4
Transfer from Rabat to Fez via
Meknes and Voloubilis. Three-night
stay in Fez.
Day 5
Private guided tour of Fez.
Day 6
Day at leisure to relax and explore
Fez.
Day 7
Transfer to Marrakesh for three
nights in a riad.
Day 8
Private guided tour of Marrakesh.
Day 9
Day at leisure.
Day 10
Transfer to airport for return flight
to UK.
EXTENSIONS
Meknes & Voloubilis
The Erg Chebbi
Only a short distance west of Fez, the fortunes of
Meknes, originally a small market town, took a
dramatic turn when Sultan Moulay Ismail assumed
power in the 17th century and had huge palaces,
harems and miles of walls pierced with arched
gates constructed for the royal court. On his
death, influence seeped away from the city;
earthquakes and rain did the rest, reducing much
of the massive works to subsiding mud-brick
interspersed with monumental gates that remind
us of its former glory. Nearby at Voloubilis are the
remains of one of the Roman Empire’s key
Moroccan cities. Alongside the ruined buildings,
the mosaics, as colourful and vivid as the day they
were laid, are the real highlight.
The first colossal dunes of the Sahara rise at
Morocco’s eastern edge. The best time to see the
dunes is at sunrise and sunset when the changing
light subtly alters their colour with each passing
second, from butter yellow to gold, ochre and
honey. These are the most accessible dunes of
the Sahara in Morocco, but are not easily
incorporated into a short trip, being about 10
hours’ driving time from Fez and at least as much
from Marrakesh, so realistically you need at least
three-day round trip to fit them in. They are best
incorporated as part of a circuit itinerary between
Marrakesh and Fez, or as a loop through the
southern oases from Marrakesh.
You can extend your visit to Morocco with time
at the coastal town of Essaouira, or by spending a
couple of nights in a mountain retreat in the
foothills of the High Atlas.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
requirements.
THE DESERT EXPERIENCE
Located at the edge of the Erg Chebbi, the desert
experience is a night spent camping in a traditional
black, Bedouin, goat-hair tent. The facilities are
obviously quite basic, with traditional Bedouin
food, communal washrooms, simple blankets and
mattresses. However, you get to camp under the
most amazing sky, nearly always clear, with
thousands and thousands of stars on display;
indeed on a moonless night the starlight is
sometimes bright enough to read by.
Mosaic, Voloubilis
Morocco
Telephone: 01993 838 420
Bedouin Tent, Erg Chebbi
15
Musician, Ouarzazate
The Southern Oases Valleys
The Draa Valley
The Dades Valley
Stretching south and east from Ouarzazate, the
valleys of the southern oasis circuit are arguably
the most beautiful area of the country. Towering
gorges, steep canyon sides, verdant palm
plantations and crumbling kasbahs dominate the
landscape. A loop can be made heading out to
the Erg Chebbi along one series of valleys and
making your way back along an alternative valley.
This is a journey through one of the more
untouched areas of Morocco, and will provide
some of the best memories of your trip.
The broad gravel plains of the Draa river bed are
planted with palms stretching as far as the eye can
see, protected by a network of pisé walls and
kasbahs now gracefully melting away. The valley
peters out near the settlements of Zagora and
Tinfou, where a lone sand dune sits puzzlingly in
the middle of a vast gravel plain, shadowing a sign
saying “Tombouctou - 51 jours”. Fifty-one days
that is by camel, a measurement dating from the
time when Morocco exerted control right across
the Sahara into Mali. The village of Tamegroute,
south of Zagora, is a pretty collection of kasbahs
and pisé houses once a famous seat of learning.
Today the potters' cooperative is the best reason
to stop, to see local craftsmen at work.
The Dades Valley is the principal route between
the desert and the ancient trading oases of the
Tifilalt. The High Atlas rear to the northern side of
the route, and at Todra there is a dramatic gorge
cutting into the mountainside that forms one of
Morocco’s greatest natural sights and comes
complete with a gentle stream and welcoming
auberge and café. At its eastern end, the valley
joins that of the Ziz, where towering palms
threaten to spill over the canyon lip hundreds of
feet above.
Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate is a city of strategic and historic
importance, sadly not really reflected in the
determinedly modern architecture. It is however a
great base and staging post for exploration of the
kasbahs, valleys and desert of the south, and
possesses a couple of interesting kasbahs itself.
Taourirt is the best of these, and has been
restored, now standing at the heart of a complex
of traditional housing, craft shops and cafés.
Todra Gorge, Dades Valley
16
Local weaver
The Desert
Circuit
This itinerary has been designed for those wishing
to experience the Sahara and can be extended to
a longer tour of the country. It also showcases
some of the best kasbahs in the country at Ait
Benhaddou and Telouet.
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Marrakesh,
transfer to your riad for two nights.
Day 2
Marrakesh.
Day 3
Drive to Ouarzazate in a 4WD via
Telouet and Ait Benhaddou.
Overnight in Skoura.
Day 4
Continue along the Draa Valley,
visiting the Todra Gorge, and
finishing at the Erg Chebbi sand
dunes. Stay overnight in a Bedouin
tent near the dunes.
Day 5
Return from the desert and spend a
night in Ouazarzate.
Day 6
Drive to Marrakesh and spend two
nights in a riad.
Day 7
At leisure.
Day 8
Fly back to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
A loop like this could easily be included as part of
a longer itinerary. Instead of transferring back to
Marrakesh on day six you could continue to the
High Atlas for a few days either in a mountain
retreat or trekking, perhaps attempting an ascent
of Jebel Toubkal. Alternatively, you could go from
Ouarzazate to Essaouira and spend a few days
soaking up the quirky atmosphere, sun and ocean
breezes.
Kasbah, Draa Valley
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
Dar Kamar
DAR KAMAR, OUARZAZATE
A former Glaoui courthouse, Dar Kamar is hidden
away down a narrow alleyway in the old Kasbah
Taourit in the centre of Ouarzazate. Renovated
using the traditional straw and mud bricks known
as pisé, the atmospheric hotel has 12 individually
designed rooms which are all air-conditioned. The
roof terrace is the ideal place to relax and soak
up the views of the Kasbah and palmeries in the
distance.
Skoura
Skoura lies astride the route from Ouarzazate to
the Sahara and is a town typical of those in the
Dades Valley. The modern town offers little to
detain the visitor, but the palm plantations are
criss-crossed by paths that run by crumbling pisé
Kasbah Ait Ben Moro
requirements.
walls up to kasbahs in equally ruinous condition.
The whole effect is quite beautiful and if you are
going to break your journey anywhere in the
Dades Valley, Skoura is as good a place as any.
KASBAH AIT BEN MORO,
SKOURA
A mud-brick kasbah built in the 18th century, and
typical of those found in the area, Ait Ben Moro
has been restored using traditional techniques and
decorated in the original style. It is a simple but
comfortable place, and a great base for exploring
the nearby palm plantations and kasbahs that have
not been so fortunate in the restoration stakes.
Although the hotel is pretty simple, it is
comfortable and has bags of character. Staying in
this genuine kasbah is a real treat for any visitor to
Morocco.
Morocco
Telephone: 01993 838 420
17
Kasbah Ait Benhaddou
Oued Mellah
The Oued Mellah runs through the High Atlas
from Marrakesh, providing the easiest route to the
oases and valleys of the south. It was one of the
principal trade routes, controlled by the Glaoui
tribe; their Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou guards the
southern approaches and their grandiose
ambitions were expressed best in the building of
Telouet, their family kasbah at the northern
entrance to the Oued Mellah. At its height it was
a huge complex of brilliantly decorated reception
rooms, cavernous kitchens, slave quarters, and
extensive subterranean dungeons. With the
coming of independence, the Glaoui lost their
pre-eminence, a decline that has been mirrored at
Telouet where unstable walls have closed off
much of the kasbah, leaving only the reception
rooms as an eloquent testament to former glories.
Taroudant
Taroudant is a wonderful little Berber town,
completely encircled in ochre ramparts that cradle
traditional souqs still trading with a gentle
parochial air. The pace of life is unhurried, and
although you can take an excursion to the nearby
Kasbah of Tioute, Taroudant is really about
relaxing and getting a little closer to real
Moroccan life.
18
DAR ZITOUNE, TAROUDANT
Created in Berber style using local materials, Dar
Zitoune is made up of 14 bungalow-type rooms
set in four acres of landscaped grounds with olive,
palm and orange trees and a 20-metre pool.
Furnishings are traditional, with inlaid wooden
tables and intricately carved brass lampshades,
whilst typical Moorish designs decorate the ceiling.
Each room is air-conditioned with satellite TV, a
safe, phone and internet access. Dar Zitoune also
offers its guests a small spa with hammam and a
choice of massage treatments, and the terrace
restaurant prepares a delicious choice of
Moroccan and European meals.
Palais Salam
THE PALAIS SALAM, TAROUDANT
The Palais Salam is in the former palace of the
pasha of Taroudant, and occupies a wonderful
spot just inside the ramparts complete with its
own monumental gate. Inside the hotel the
battlements dominate the skyline, framed by
towering palms that grow in the gardens next to
the pool. The accommodation is in a series of
riads, or courtyards, and is comfortable and
spacious without being luxurious or pretentious.
The garden and pool area is a haven of peace.
Dar Zitoune
Anti-Atlas
and the Atlantic coast
An ideal itinerary for those wishing to visit one of
the more remote regions of Morocco,
encompassing the walled town of Taroudant, the
spectacular mountain scenery of the Anti-Atlas
and Tafraoute, and the empty white beaches of
the coast. It is possible to relax for a couple of
days by the beach, either at the beginning or end
of your trip, before heading inland. Here the
traditions of the village communities still hold
strong and life continues at a slower pace than
elsewhere in Morocco. It is possible to venture
offroad to explore the palmeries around Tafroute
and to discover the impressive rocky landscapes
by foot.
Day 1
Fly from the U.K. On arrival in
Agadir transfer to your hotel in
Taroudant for a two-night stay.
Day 2
Visit the village of Tioute in the
morning and the medina and
ramparts of Taroudant in the
afternoon.
Day 3
Travel through the Souss Valley and
along the winding mountain roads of
the Anti-Atlas, stopping at the
Ameln valley en route. You stay in
Tafraoute for two nights.
Day 4
Visit the blue painted rocks of the
artist Jean Verame, either by foot or
4WD, or the nearby palmeries of
Ait Mansour.
Village of Tazcam, Tafraoute
Day 5
The Sous-Massa National
Park
Set off for the coast this morning via
Tiznit, where you stay for three
nights.
Day 6
At leisure.
Day 7
A guided tour of the Massa Natural
Reserve and the fishing village of
Tifnite.
Day 8
Transfer to Agadir airport for your
flight to the U.K.
Just 40 kilometres south of Agadir, the sandbars,
ponds and reedbeds of the Sous-Massa provide
perhaps the most important habitat in Morocco
for birdlife. The park is home to many sedentary
birds including the kingfisher, cormorant, the rare
bald ibis, Elonard’s falcon and curlew. Amongst
the migrating birds are the glossy ibis, crane, pink
flamingo and spoonbill. Although the immediate
area of the lagoon is protected, bird watchers will
find plenty of opportunity to watch wildlife from
the path that traverses the park. Gazelle, oryx
and ostrich are also being reintroduced into the
park and there are plans to allow access to
visitors late in 2007.
EXTENSIONS
If starting your trip on the coast and ending in
Taroudant you can extend your itinerary by
travelling over the stunning High Atlas to
Marrakesh. A couple of days spent in this vibrant,
bustling city, which has a wonderful choice of
small character riads for accommodation, offers an
exciting conclusion to your trip.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
The Souss Valley & Anti
Atlas
The Souss Valley is the hub of all commerce in
Morocco’s grocery trade: banana and orange
groves flourish amongst the extensive vegetable
crops, and this is the only area in which the argan
nut - virtually unique to Morocco - flourishes, the
gentle foothills of the Anti-Atlas dotted with argan
trees. The Chleuh Berbers are the original
inhabitants of this area and most men travel to
other regions of Morocco to trade, returning to
Kasbah, Anti-Atlas Mountains
the area in their retirement and building large
villas amongst the typical small stone villages of
the Tafraoute oasis. Here the granite rock
formations dominate the landscape, palm
plantations line the beds of the valleys and the
distinctive red painted stone houses enhance the
region’s independent character.
requirements.
Morocco
Telephone: 01993 838 420
19
Egypt
or 4,000 years Egypt has been drawing
ancient Egyptians, and Cairo is the perfect
lonely oases and remote monasteries. At El
visitors to marvel at the temples and
example of this, where layer upon layer of
Alamein, ranks of war graves pay testament to
funerary monuments of its ancient culture,
medieval history competes for space with
heroism and a history much younger than that
lining the banks of the Nile, crammed into the
Fatimid citadels, Mamluke souqs and Ottoman
of the Ancient Egyptians. Whilst many of
narrow strip of fertile land amidst the desert
mosques, overlaid by a vibrant modern city.
Egypt's historic attractions are still in situ, a
that forms the bulk of the country. From the
Outside the green margins of the Nile, the Red
wonderful array of artefacts can also be found
iconic pyramids of Giza to the temples of Abu
Sea’s stunning coral reefs are fringed by sandy
in her museums: Alexandria and Luxor both
Simbel, there is a spectacular array of
beaches blessed with year-round sun. In the
have excellent little museums, and the
Pharaonic sights that form the core of Egypt’s
desert remarkable rock formations, jagged
Museum of Egyptian Antiquities is one of the
appeal. There is more to Egypt than just the
mountains and seas of sand shelter and hide
most famous in the world.
F
20
Audley in Egypt
Egypt is a simple country to visit, with most of the
key places of interest lying along the line of the
Nile and easily connected by logical itineraries.
Travel across larger distances is by scheduled
flights, whilst local travel and sightseeing is easiest
with a private driver and guide. At certain sights,
local guides are employed for their specialised
knowledge of a particular monument. Nile cruises
are the most popular way to visit Egypt’s greatest
archaeological treasures around Luxor and Aswan,
and include guided excursions along their routes.
These are in groups of around 20, with
professional English-speaking guides. For the more
adventurous, desert excursions with 4WD vehicles
on a private or small group basis can allow you to
discover lesser-known sites and attractions.
Certain dates, such as the holy month of Ramadan
when most of the country fasts during daylight
hours, may affect your travel plans, and we will
always ensure such factors are taken into account.
Accommodation
Egypt is blessed with some wonderful historic
hotels rich in charm and character. Whilst many
are graded five star, they do not always measure
up to international standards of service and are
slightly faded around the edges: as long as you are
prepared for this it is often a key part of their
charm. Other hotels tend to be international chain
hotels that are very comfortable and have higher
levels of service, but offer less in the way of
character. Many hotels in Egypt are set near the
Nile or the sea, and where necessary we would
suggest upgrading to rooms that make the most of
the views as the supplements are seldom
prohibitive.
Transport
Private sightseeing and transfers are most likely to
be in a minibus, even if there are only two of you.
For excursions in larger groups, such as those on
Nile cruises, minibuses or coaches are used. All
the vehicles we use are air-conditioned, though
local taxis you may use along the way may not be.
The cruise boats are differentiated by the number
of cabins (varying from 50 to more than 150) as
well as by the size of the cabins, the standard of
the furnishings and slight differences in their
itineraries. Internal flights are with Egypt Air, who
are not the most reliable airline: schedules can
change, delays do occur and flights are often at
uncivilised hours of the day. We and our agents in
Egypt are used to dealing with these issues and
will do everything possible to ensure they have
minimal impact on the enjoyment of your trip.
Internal flights cost less when using Egypt Air
internationally, although we will always offer the
option of using British Airways if you wish.
Climate
Traditionally Egypt has been seen as a winter
destination, with most visitors arriving between
October and April. At this time of year, Cairo and
Lower Egypt (the area towards the Mediterranean)
are pleasantly cool, with average maximum
temperatures in the low twenties celsius. Upper
Egypt (around Aswan and Luxor) tends to be a
few degrees warmer, but still very pleasant. There
may be some rain in Lower Egypt, but it is light and
sporadic. The summer season from May to
September is hot, especially in Upper Egypt where
temperatures can hit 50C. The high temperatures
are, however, alleviated by very dry air, airconditioning, far fewer visitors and lower prices,
making summer a viable season for your trip.
Nile sunset
Cairenes
Egypt
Telephone: 01993
01869 838
276 410
250
21
The Citadel, Cairo
Cairo
For over 700 years Cairo has been the largest city
in Africa, and it continues to grow at a rapid pace.
The urban sprawl, dusty streets and chaotic
driving do not endear the city to everyone, but
those who persevere are rewarded by a diverse
and dramatic history, and many unsung attractions.
The one stop that really must be included in any
visit to Egypt is the Museum of Egyptian
Antiquities, a vast treasure trove handed down
through the ages that includes the legendary
treasures of Tutankhamun. Scratch beneath the
surface and Cairo reveals its wondrous secrets,
beautiful mosques, imposing citadels, labyrinthine
bazaars, ancient Coptic churches and unexpected
garden oases.
THE GRAND HYATT, CAIRO
The Grand Hyatt group has a reputation for
delivering consistent, luxurious accommodation
across the globe. At their Cairo hotel this is
combined with one of the most enviable locations
in the city on the northern tip of Roda Island. So
the hotel is just a short distance from the centre
of the city and the Egyptian Museum, but
separated from the heavy traffic and chaos by the
Nile. In addition, each of the superbly appointed
714 rooms and suites looks out over the river.
Giza & the Pyramids
The Grand Hyatt, Cairo
THE FOUR SEASONS, CAIRO
The luxury hotel chain boasts two exclusive
properties located in the heart of Cairo, The First
Residence and the Nile Plaza. As with Four
Seasons hotels across the world they offer superb
luxury, excellent decor and fine furnishings. The
First Residence, located in an upmarket residential
complex, has views of the Pyramids and the Nile
on most of the upper floor rooms. The larger of
the two hotels with 365 rooms is The Nile Plaza,
a beautiful hotel with a contemporary and
sophisticated twist, close to the heart of the city.
The Four Seasons at The First Residence
22
More than any other monument, the Pyramids of
Giza symbolise the mystic appeal that Egypt has
exerted over travellers for so many millennia. The
instantly recognisable tableau of the pyramids
dominates the Giza skyline, sitting on the fringes
of the ever-expanding city, facing urban streets to
the north and east, and staring south and west
over the endless desert sands. Sentinel to the
pyramids, the Sphinx sits in enigmatic splendour,
whilst the surrounding area is filled with numerous
smaller pyramids, mastabas and funerary temples.
Beyond Giza lie the pyramid fields of Saqqara and
Dashur and the ancient city of Memphis, the first
capital of a unified Egypt.
An Egyptian
Introduction
This tour has been designed for those who are
perhaps short on time but do not want to miss
any of Egypt’s major sights. It includes time in
Cairo to allow you to visit the pyramids and the
Egyptian Museum, as well as a short Nile cruise
which includes visits to the Valley of the Kings, the
temples of Luxor, Karnak, Kom Ombo, Edfu and
Philae, and the Aswan High Dam. Taking less than
a week in total, this is the perfect quick
introduction to Egypt.
Day 1
Fly to Cairo and spend two nights in
the city.
Day 2
Visit the pyramids and Sphinx at
Giza, and the Egyptian Museum.
Day 3
Fly from Cairo to Aswan and board
your cruise boat. Afternoon visit to
the High Dam, Unfinished Obelisk
and the Temple of Philae.
Day 4
Sail to Kom Ombo and visit the
Temple of Sobek and Haroeris. Sail
to Edfu and visit the Temple of
Horus.
Day 5
Sail to Luxor and visit the West
Bank (Valley of the Kings, Temple of
Hatchepsut, Colossi of Memnon). In
the afternoon visit the East Bank
(Temples of Karnak and Luxor).
Day 6
Disembark and fly from Luxor to
Cairo, and then on to London.
Pyramids of Giza, Cairo
The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, Cairo
THE MENA HOUSE OBEROI, GIZA
There can be few hotels with a location to match
the Mena House, nestled at the foot of the Giza
plateau, directly beneath the looming hulk of the
Great Pyramid. Built by Khedive Ismail, a 19thcentury Egyptian ruler, as a hunting lodge and
base for exploring the pyramids it was patronised
in its early days by international royalty and high
society, a trend that continued after its conversion
to a hotel: Churchill and Roosevelt planned the
D-Day invasions here. The hotel combines classic
19th-century Arabesque architecture and design
with more modern areas, and has a pleasant
garden and pool. Of the numerous dining options,
The Moghul Room Indian restaurant has a
deservedly excellent reputation.
Local street scene
NB: This itinerary must depart on a Wednesday.
The Monasteries of St Paul
& St Anthony
EXTENSIONS
Located southeast of Cairo, not far from the Red
Sea shore, these two monasteries are the oldest
in Egypt. St Anthony, regarded as the father of
monasticism, retreated from the world to live in a
cave here, and a large monastery that developed
near the site dates back to the 4th century.
Nearby, another monastery marks the final resting
place of St Paul, companion of St Anthony, where
lions reputedly appeared in the desert upon his
death to help dig his grave. The various churches
within the walls boast frescoes in excellent repair,
and the remote setting makes them wonderful
places to visit.
For those seeking relaxation on a beach, the coast
of the Red Sea is a short flight away, with miles of
white sand beach, excellent hotels, and some of
the best diving and snorkelling in the world.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
requirements.
Egypt
Telephone: 01993 838 410
The Mena House
Monastery of St Anthony
23
Fort Qaitbey, Alexandria
El Alamein & the
Mediterranean Coast
Alexandria
For centuries Alexandria was arguably the most
important city in the world. At the heart of
developments in the sciences and philosophy, it
was the repository of the greatest collection of
knowledge in the world - the famous Library. For
such a significant place, precious little of the old
Alexandria remains: just Pompey’s Pillar and the
catacombs as well as assorted artefacts in the
Graeco-Roman museum. It has been replaced by
a modern city where the pace of life is quite
gentle, and a Mediterranean air of relaxation
pervades.
THE WINDSOR PALACE,
ALEXANDRIA
Built in 1902, The Windsor Palace exudes
character and the stately grandeur of a golden era
as one of Alexandria’s “heritage” hotels. Built in
the style of a small palace right on the waterfront,
the hotel resides in the cultural and social hub of
the city, with its street cafés, shopping boutiques
and seaside promenade. All deluxe rooms and
suites have recently been refurbished and enjoy
panoramic views of the old harbour, and together
with the welcome from the friendly staff help
make this an excellent base while in downtown
Alexandria.
The Windsor Palace
The Nile Delta
Heading along the coast from Alexandria there
are one or two historic sites, including Abu Sir,
known as Taposiris Magna in classical times and
renowned for its lighthouse. The main draw to
this region is about 100 kilometres out of
Alexandria, where El Alamein marks the furthest
extent of the Axis advance across North Africa: it
was here that General Montgomery decided to
dig in and retreat no further. The battlefield is
huge and still heavily mined so most visits focus
on the various war cemeteries, their rank upon
rank of headstones bearing silent witness to
heroism in the desert.
Changing river channels and agricultural activity
have taken their toll on the antiquities of the
Delta, though there is plenty to interest the
devoted amateur Egyptologist, such as Tanis, with
the shattered remains of a huge Temple of Amun,
and Bubastis, where vaults full of mummified cats
were found. These ruins are atmospheric rather
than extensive, and it is the rural life of the delta,
with gently flowing branches of the Nile
separating green areas of swaying reeds dense
with local birdlife, that is the main attraction. One
of the nicest ways to appreciate this scenery is on
one of the trains running between Alexandria and
Cairo.
The road to Siwa
24
Alexander, Oracles
and Battles
Alexander the Great features prominently in the
history of this region, having both founded the
greatest city of Antiquity at Alexandria and sought
confirmation of his divine birth at the Siwa oracle.
As we follow in his footsteps, we take time to
stop and commemorate a much more modern
battle with visits to the war graves and museum at
El Alamein.
Day 1
Fly from London to Alexandria.
Spend three nights in Alexandria.
Day 2
Tour of the city, including the
catacombs and Pompey’s Pillar.
Day 3
Day at leisure, or you may like to
take a trip into the Nile Delta.
Day 4
Leave Alexandria and drive along
the Mediterranean coast. Spend
some time at El Alamein before
continuing to Siwa where you spend
three nights.
Day 5
Enjoy a desert safari.
Day 6
Explore the amazing old town and
stunning surroundings.
Day 7
Long day driving back to Alexandria
for two final nights.
Day 8
At leisure.
Day 9
Fly back to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
Fatnis Island, Siwa
From Alexandria there are several trains a day
down to Cairo, where you could spend a few
extra days or even continue into a full programme
including a Nile cruise.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
Adrere Ammellall Ecolodge
Shali Lodge
Desert Circuit
With their own language and style of mud-brick
construction, Siwans remained independent until
coming under Egyptian authority in 1820. Siwa is
perhaps best known for the Oracle of Amun,
where Alexander sought confirmation that he was
the son of Zeus.
A desert adventure provides a great contrast to
the well trodden path of the Nile valley. Now
connected by asphalt roads, it is easier than ever
to explore over 1,000 kilometres of desert
through the main oases of Siwa, Bahariya, Farafra,
Dakhla and Kharga. Each oasis has its own unique
flavour and landscape, including the salt lakes of
Siwa, the hot springs and palm groves of Bahariya,
and the traditional mud-brick village of Dakhla.
Siwa
Located some 600 kilometres from Alexandria
and isolated in every other direction by the
impenetrable Sahara, the oasis of Siwa has
remained largely untouched by the outside world
and remains a unique outpost of Berber culture.
requirements.
SHALI LODGE, SIWA
Built by the same environmentalist as Siwa's
renowned Adrere Ammellall Ecolodge, Shali
Lodge is a small hotel consisting of eight rooms.
The underlying eco-principles at both lodges are
strong, using local materials wherever possible.
Located just off the main square, Shali Lodge
boasts a central location for exploring the old
town. The rooftop restaurant, surrounded by a
palmerie, is a welcome addition and a pleasant
way to spend an evening.
Egypt
Telephone: 01993 838 410
25
Local children, Bahariya
Bahariya
EL BADAWIYA, FARAFRA
El Badawiya is a traditional mud-brick building
comprising 20 rooms set around a courtyard. The
main attractions of this hotel are the friendly staff
and excellent safari organisation. There are a few
standard rooms and split level rooms which are
basic but clean, and the hotel also boasts a
beautiful swimming pool which is a welcome relief
from the heat of the desert. There are also eight
newly completed suites close to the hotel that
provide a good standard of accommodation to
match the facilities.
The smallest of the oases on the desert circuit,
Bahariya lies approximately 350 kilometres from
Cairo and boasts hot springs, palm groves and
rock formations. Bahariya was under Pharonic
control in the Middle Kingdom and later thrived as
a post on the lucrative trading route between
Egypt and Libya. Most recently it became famous
for the discovery of over a hundred beautifully
gilted golden mummies that had lain undiscovered
for over 2,000 years. Bahariya also serves as a
good base for exploring the White and Black
Deserts with its unusual chalk formations.
INTERNATIONAL HOT SPRING
HOTEL, BAHARIYA
Located at the foot of the Black Mountain,
International Hot Spring Hotel is a restful and
relaxing place to stay. The 36 rooms are basic but
very clean. There is a hot spring pool in the
courtyard which is lovely in the winter months
and is said to help relieve arthritis and
rheumatism. In the gardens there is a large
Bedouin tent where in the evening you can relax
with a water pipe and listen to traditional Bedouin
music. The German owner is very knowledgeable
about the area and keen to make sure his visitors
have a truly unique experience.
26
The White Desert
Farafra
As the least populated and most isolated oasis,
Farafra is largely undiscovered. Those who
venture here are attracted by its proximity to the
White Desert and Crystal Mountain with its
natural large arch entirely composed of quartz
crystal. Another highlight is the delightful museum,
owned by a local artist Badr Abd El Moghny. The
museum is home to his own work which reflects
the life, people and nature of the Farafra Oasis.
El Badawiya
The Great
Desert Circuit
The desert circuit is an ideal itinerary for those
who wish to explore these lesser known, yet
remarkable and stunning regions of Egypt. The
desert is a place of harsh vistas and strange
landscapes, softened by the odd oasis where a
traditional lifestyle persists, and offers a very
different Egypt to the tourist trail.
Pottery, Dakhla
Dakhla
Kharga
Full of history and culture, Dakhla Oasis is also
probably the most fertile and cultivated of all the
oases. Situated about 200 kilometres from Kharga,
it is one of the more interesting oases with its
Pharaonic, Roman and Coptic antiquities
combined with exotic architecture, palm groves,
hot springs and dunes. A relative abundance of
water has allowed farming to flourish and also
makes Dakhla a surprisingly good spot for
bird-watching. A highlight is exploring the
still-inhabited old town with its twisting passages
and alleyways, and its mud-brick walls.
At approximately 340 kilometres from Luxor,
Kharga is the nearest oasis to Luxor and benefits
from the smallest number of tourists. It is a large,
fertile town, and you’ll find it hard to believe that
you are in the middle of the desert. Steeped in
history, Kharga is a fascinating insight into the
ancient settlements.
DESERT LODGE, DAKHLA
Desert Lodge is a new mountain-top hotel with
commanding views of the unique village of AlQasr, distant sand dunes and mountains. Built in a
traditional style, the 32 large rooms are simple
with private bathrooms and some have private
terraces. The hotel was built with a commitment
to ecological management, and natural materials
were used in the construction in an effort to use
the local resources available. It is well designed
and offers visitors to the area a truly unique
experience.
PIONEERS, KHARGA
If travelling to Kharga from the desert, this hotel
feels comparatively luxurious. All 102 rooms have
air-conditioning and a balcony or terrace that
faces onto the pool. Staff are friendly,
accommodating and willing to arrange safaris or
excursions.
Day 1
Fly from London to Alexandria.
Spend two nights in Alexandria.
Day 2
Tour of the city including the national
museum and Pompey’s Pillar.
Day 3
Early drive to Siwa with optional visit
to El Alamein.
Day 4
Day at leisure to explore the
amazing old town.
Day 5
Day at leisure for a dune excursion.
Day 6
Drive to Bahariya, famous for the
discovery of the Valley of the
Golden Mummies.
Day 7
After breakfast depart for Farafra. En
route explore the Black Desert and
the White Desert rock formations.
Visit to local art museum.
Day 8
Set off for Dhakla where you can
explore the old town and pottery
factory.
Day 9
Head east to Kharga for the final
oasis on this route.
Day 10
Leave the desert for Luxor where
you have time to explore some of
the more famous temples.
Day 11
Private guided tour of the West Bank.
Day 12
Morning private guided tour of the
East Bank. Afternoon flight to Cairo
for three nights by the pyramids.
Day 13
Private guided tour of the pyramids
and Sphinx.
Day 14
Explore the antiquities at the Egyptian
Museum with a private guide.
Day 15
Transfer to the airport for your
return flight.
EXTENSIONS
This trip can easily be extended to include time at
leisure at the Red Sea. Alternatively, board a Nile
cruise from Luxor down to Aswan to unwind and
visit some of the famous temples.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
requirements.
Egypt
Telephone: 01993 838 410
Desert Lodge
27
Fishermen, Lake Nasser
Upper Egypt
Nile Cruises
Upper Egypt refers to the southern half of the
country, containing the upper reaches of the river
Nile. Today, as in history, the towns and sights are
largely confined to the narrow strip of cultivated
land either side of the river. The area is home to
one of the greatest concentrations of historical
monuments anywhere and although it is the
landmarks of ancient civilisations that dominate
and draw visitors, the modern world has also left
its legacy with the Aswan High Dam and its
offspring, Lake Nasser. Both the Nile and the lake
are popularly explored by cruise, although the
sights of the Nile Valley can equally be visited
from the delightful hotels of Luxor and Aswan.
Cruising the Nile has long been seen as the most
romantic way to visit the monuments of Ancient
Egypt. Most cruises today ply the waters between
Luxor and Aswan visiting the major sights. The
boats are essentially floating hotels and sightseeing
is done in organised groups from the boats. There
are a huge number of Nile cruisers, with very few
of a consistently high standard, and moorings are
congested, except for those vessels with private
moorings. Increasingly people are opting to visit
Upper Egypt using hotels as bases, although if you
get the right boat and book far enough in advance
to ensure a cabin, Nile cruises still provide a
wonderful way to explore Egypt.
M/S Oberoi Philae Nile Cruiser
M/S O BEROI P HILAE N ILE C RUISER
Regarded by most people as the best boat
cruising the Nile, the Philae is smaller than much
of the competition at just 54 cabins. It also has
the most character, being styled as an Edwardian
paddle steamer complete with dark woods and
brass fittings. The cabins are comfortable, if not
especially large, they all have balconies and are
appointed to the standard of a good, international,
five-star hotel. The Philae is also one of the few
boats with private moorings in Luxor and Aswan.
Temple of Horus, Edfu
28
Grand Tour
of Egypt
This comprehensive itinerary highlights many
different facets of Egypt, from the hectic pace of
Cairo and the remnants of her impressive past to
the hugely popular monuments of the Nile Valley,
as well as the more unhurried experience of
exploring classical Alexandria and steaming
serenely across the quiet waters of Lake Nasser.
Day 1
to your hotel in Cairo or Giza.
Day 2
Private guided tour of the pyramids,
Memphis and Saqqara.
Day 3
Private guided tour of the Museum
of Egyptian Antiquities and Old
Cairo.
Day 4
First-class train journey to
Alexandria. Relax on arrival after
checking into your hotel.
Day 5
Private guided tour of Alexandria
and El Alamein.
Day 6
At leisure to continue exploring
Alexandria. Return to Cairo later in
the day by first-class train and stay
overnight in the city.
Day 7
Fly down to Luxor and board your
Nile cruiser for a four-night cruise.
Afternoon tour of Karnak and Luxor
temples.
Day 8
Tour the West Bank, including the
Valley of the Kings. Sail to Esna in
the afternoon.
Day 9
Sail to Edfu and visit the Temple of
Horus. Continue to Kom Ombo and
visit the Temple of Sobek and
Haroeris.
Day 10
Sail to Aswan and visit the Temple
of Philae.
Day 11
Disembark the cruise after breakfast
and transfer to Lake Nasser to
board the M/S Kasr Ibrim. In the
afternoon visit the temples at
Kalabsha.
Day 12
Full day cruising to Wadi Es Seboua.
Day 13
Visit the Temple of Wadi Es Seboua.
Sail to Amada and visit the two
temples there.
Day 14
Sail past the fort at Kasr Ibrim.
Cruise on to Abu Simbel and visit
the temples.
Day 15
Chance to visit the temples at Abu
Simbel again, before flying to Aswan
and spending two nights there.
Day 16
At leisure.
Day 17
Fly from Aswan to Cairo, and then
on to the UK.
Local musicians
M/S M O V E N P I C K R O Y A L L O T U S
The Movenpick Royal Lotus is the latest addition
to the Movenpick fleet, with sixty cabins and two
Royal suites. The elegantly furnished cabins have a
full range of amenities and there are extensive
facilities as well as a restaurant and three bars.
The décor throughout is modern and stylish and
the Royal Lotus looks set to become one of the
best boats cruising the Nile.
Lake Nasser
Formed behind the massive High Dam at Aswan,
Lake Nasser is the world’s largest reservoir and
stretches nearly five hundred kilometres to the
south, beyond the Sudanese border. The Ancient
Nubian temples of Abu Simbel were famously
moved, block-by-block, out of the reaches of the
rising waters. These temples are not as grand as
the likes of Karnak, but their location on the
shores of the vast lake with the desert stretching
at their backs, and the Nubian influence on their
design makes them well worth seeing. Cruising
here is one of the few hidden treasures left in
Egypt - just eight boats sail the lake, and over a
four- or five-day cruise you might see other
people on just three occasions, leaving you free
to enjoy the stunning desert scenery on either
shore.
M/S Kasr Ibrim at Abu Simbel
M/S K A S R I B R I M
The Kasr Ibrim is an Art Deco masterpiece,
recreating the indolent feel of a 1920s paddle
steamer, the perfect vessel for a cruise where the
journey is as important as the destination. Carved
wooden furniture, cream decor and period fittings
complement a large sundeck and private balconies
in each cabin. These touches are important, as
there is plenty of time to relax and watch the
scenery go by, in contrast to the more hectic
itineraries of a Nile cruise. The four-night
southbound cruise is the best, as it climaxes with
a wonderful waterborne approach to Abu Simbel.
Morocco
Egypt
Telephone: 01869
01993 276
838 250
410
29
Sphinxes, Luxor temple
Abu Simbel
Aswan
The most famous of the rescued temples of Lake
Nasser are those at Abu Simbel. They were built
by Ramses the Great on the edge of his empire,
to impress his might and power upon all those
entering Egypt. The Temple of Ramses is the
larger of the two, and the famous, huge statues of
Ramses that form the facade are one of the
defining images of Egypt. One of the best ways to
appreciate them is to arrive by boat on a Lake
Nasser cruise, though most people visit on a halfday trip, flying in early from Aswan for a quickfire
tour of the two temples before flying back.
Aswan is easily the prettiest town in Egypt, and
our recommendation for the perfect place to
unwind at the end of your trip. Although not as
rich in sights as Luxor, it does still have the
picture-perfect Temple of Philae and the
monumental High Dam. Fringed with palms, the
desert horizon is broken by the Aga Khan’s
mausoleum and the faint outline of the Monastery
of San Simeon, stunningly located amidst the arid
landscape. The river itself snakes through the
rounded boulders that gave Elephantine Island its
name, the waters flecked with white felucca sails.
THE OLD CATARACT, ASWAN
Temple of Ramses ll, Abu Simbel
30
Agatha Christie’s home in Aswan, The Old
Cataract is perhaps the most famous hotel in
Egypt, and oozes character. The location is superb,
slightly out of town and on the banks of the Nile
overlooking Elephantine Island and the Sahara. Built
at the turn of the last century, it combines classic
fin-de-siècle grace with Ottoman influences, where
Edwardian furniture is complemented by Moorish
arches. Guests do need to take a forgiving attitude,
as the service is not always up to scratch, and parts
of the hotel do look a bit tired - but if you are
prepared for this then there is nothing to beat
sitting on the terrace with a cold drink at sunset
and watching the desert and river come alive in a
blaze of golden colour.
The Old Cataract
Luxor
Luxor, home to a huge concentration of
monuments, has developed to cater to the
thousands of tourists who pass through. On the
east bank of the river, the town itself is modern
and lacking in charm, but it has grown up around
the two temples of Luxor and Karnak. Karnak is
the largest temple anywhere in the world, and its
scale is typified by the enormous hypostyle hall, a
forest of some 134 huge columns that dwarf
visitors. On the west bank at Luxor is the Theban
necropolis, where the people of ancient Thebes
buried their dead. There are a number of funerary
temples, which are impressive, but it is the tombs
that bring people here, their decorations still rich
after thousands of years.
Egypt
in Style
Egypt has several excellent hotels in converted
palaces that ooze charm and character, making
them a key part of the travel experience. By using
these historic properties, and a stylish Nile cruiser,
it is possible to take a trip that will showcase the
most impressive and important monuments of
Ancient Egypt as well as enjoying individual
accommodation with wonderful views.
Day 1
in Cairo to the Mena House Oberoi.
Day 2
Private guided tour of the pyramids,
Memphis and Saqqara.
Day 3
of Egyptian Antiquities, and Islamic
Cairo.
Day 4
At leisure. You may wish to arrange
further tours of Cairo, for example
to the Coptic Quarter or shop in
the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Day 5
Fly to Luxor and board the M/S
Oberoi Philae for a six-night cruise.
Sail to Qena.
Day 6
Visit Temple of Hathor in Dendera.
Sail to Luxor. Afternoon at leisure.
Day 7
Tour the Temples of Karnak and
Luxor. Afternoon at leisure.
Day 8
Excursion to the Valley of the Kings,
Valley of the Queens and Medinat
Habu. Sail to Esna. Afternoon at
leisure.
Day 9
Sail to Edfu and visit the Temple of
Horus, then sail to Kom Ombo for
the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris.
Day 10
Morning at leisure. Sail to Aswan
and tour the High Dam, the
Unfinished Obelisk and the Temple
of Philae.
Day 11
Felucca ride to the Botanical
Gardens. Then transfer to the Old
Cataract for three nights.
Luxor temple
Days 12-13 At leisure. You may wish to arrange
an excursion to the Temple of Abu
Simbel, the Monastery of St Simeon,
or the tombs of the Nobles.
Day 14
Al Moudira
AL MOUDIRA, LUXOR
Built on the outskirts of Gezira, a small village on
the west bank at Luxor, Al Moudira is an oasis of
calm away from the touts and trinket sellers of
the town. Built by a Lebanese lady, it is just about
the only hotel in Egypt with a truly Arab sense of
style. Moorish arches and peaceful courtyards give
the feel of an Ottoman palace, and the colours
used are those found in the nearby tombs and
temples. In the rooms, high ceilings and traditional
designs and furniture complete the sense of a
luxurious retreat after a busy day sightseeing.
Nubian coffee, Aswan
SONESTA ST GEORGE, LUXOR
On the east bank of Luxor, minutes away from
Luxor temple, The Sonesta St George is a firstclass hotel overlooking the Nile. A modern seven
storey building which has a vast range of
restaurants and facilities, it provides an excellent
base for any holiday. The dining options include
Italian, Japanese and Oriental as well as several
casual lounges and bars serving snacks. The rooms
are well equipped and furnished, the majority with
Nile side views though it is also possible to
upgrade to full Nile view.
Transfer to the airport and fly to the
UK via Cairo.
EXTENSIONS
For those seeking relaxation on a beach, the coast
of the Red Sea is a short flight away, with miles of
white sand beach, excellent hotels, and some of
the best diving and snorkelling in the world.
Egypt
Telephone: 01993 838 410
31
Coral reef, Red Sea
The Red Sea
Sharm El Sheikh
The Red Sea offers miles of wonderful coastline,
from the developed shores of Sinai around Sharm
El Sheikh to exclusive resorts on the western shores
near Hurghada. As well as the chance to recuperate
on a beach, time can also be spent snorkelling and
diving on the legendary coral reefs or exploring
nearby sights of interest. Time at the Red Sea is
easily incorporated into an Egyptian itinerary, and is
a great way to unwind at the end of a trip: from
Upper Egypt you can travel overland to Hurghada
or catch a flight to Sharm El Shiekh.
For many years Sharm (as most people call it) has
been a magnet for tourists seeking beaches, and
fantastic diving and snorkelling. As a result the
town itself is very much geared towards massmarket tourism, with the full array of shops,
restaurants, night clubs and package tourists.
THE OBEROI SAHL HASHEESH,
HURGHADA
NEAR
The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh was the first luxury allsuite resort to open on the Red Sea coast. It is an
exclusive haven of sophisticated luxury and
relaxation and fronts a private beach with
beautiful white sand and panoramic views of the
sea. The 102 Arab-inspired suites are set in 48
acres of perfectly maintained grounds and form a
stunning array of arches, domes and columns.
Each suite has a private walled courtyard to
guarantee privacy and peace, while upgraded
suites also have a private pool. Dining and
recreational facilities are superb and the service is
impeccable. We regard the Sahl Hasheesh as the
best beach hotel in Egypt, and arguably the best
hotel in the country.
32
The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh
However, many of the hotels are self-contained
resorts and you need never experience
downtown Sharm if you do not want to. There
are also areas of the city which are away from the
commercial heart, where you can unwind in
greater peace and isolation.
Character
Grand Tour
Hotels
of
Morocco
of Egypt
Amongst the comfortable hotels of Egypt, there is
seldom much character - most have been built
within the last few decades by international chains,
and so have little local flavour. However there are
one or two noticeable exceptions. The Mena
House is a grand former hunting lodge and has a
superb location beneath the pyramids, and the
Old Cataract is in a similar vein, built by a former
ruler in wonderful Moorish style right next to the
prettiest section of the Nile in Aswan. Al Moudira,
in Luxor, is newer but built in traditional Arab
style by a charming Lebanese lady, and the
Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh is also new, but is full of
graceful arches, traditional domes and every
comfort you could ever hope for.
Day 1
Fly from the UK. Met on arrival in
Cairo and transferred to the Mena
House Oberoi.
Day 2
of Giza.
Day 3
of Egyptian Antiquities.
Day 4
Fly from Cairo to Aswan and check
into the Old Cataract hotel.
Day 5
Private guided tour of the Temple of
Philae, the High Dam and the
Unfinished Obelisk.
Day 6
Visit the Monastery of St Simeon.
Day 7
Take the convoy from Aswan to
Luxor, stopping to visit the temples
at Kom Ombo and Edfu. In Luxor
stay at Al Moudira on the quiet west
bank.
Day 8
Private guided tour of the west
bank, including the Valley of the
Kings, the Temple of Hatchepsut and
the Colossi of Memnon.
Day 9
Private guided tour of the east bank,
visiting the Temples of Karnak and
Luxor.
Day 10
Drive in convoy to Hurghada and
check into the Oberoi Sahl
Hasheesh.
The Red Sea
Days 11-12 At leisure.
Day 13
The Four Seasons, Sharm El Sheikh
The Ritz Carlton, Sharm El Sheikh
THE FOUR SEASONS,
SHARM EL SHEIKH
THE RITZ CARLTON,
SHARM EL SHEIKH
Set amidst lush landscaping, and designed to
resemble a traditional Bedouin hillside village, the
resort has beautiful courtyards and cooling swimming
pools connected by shady walkways. All of the 136
rooms boast wonderful Arabesque styling, and many
have views over the Gulf of Aqaba. Guests can
expect the intimate and personal levels of service
that are the hallmark of Four Seasons’ hotels. As well
as the excellent architecture, furnishings and facilities,
the location of the hotel is also a real plus-point, far
enough from the heart of Sharm to be exclusive but
close enough to give access to the restaurants, shops
and diving centres.
The exclusive Ritz Carlton Resort is located just
outside Sharm El Sheikh with easy access to the
restaurants and shopping facilities of the bustling
town centre. All 321 rooms and suites in this lowrise whitewashed hotel are furnished in luxurious
modern style. There are several excellent
restaurants, and standards of service throughout
the hotel are luxuriously first class. The hotel
boasts excellent sporting and recreational facilities
including seven swimming pools, tennis courts, a
gym and a relaxing spa centre. In addition, the
hotel has a private dive centre and offers diving
courses and water sports from its private beach.
Fly from Hurghada to Cairo, and
then on to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
Instead of spending time at the Oberoi Sahl
Hasheesh, you could relax in Sharm El Sheikh.
From here you can extend your trip with visits to
St Catherine’s and across into Jordan to see Petra.
Alternatively, you can combine this itinerary with a
cruise on Lake Nasser, one of the most relaxing
and spectacular ways to spend time in Egypt.
Egypt
Telephone: 01993 838 410
33
Hermitage, the Sinai desert
The Sinai Peninsula
6th century Church of St Catherine, the medieval
monks’ quarters (still used) and a descendant of
the Burning Bush. The dramatic location and
preserved historical state of the monastery make
a visit truly inspiring. It is best to spend a night
here: this allows you to climb Mount Sinai and see
the dawn if you wish, and also make the most of
the short visiting hours at the monastery. There
are two routes to the summit, the most punishing
being the 3750 "Steps of Repentance", carved by
a remorseful monk. It is also worth paying the
extra local charge to see the monastery's
collection of icons, some of which are both
breathtakingly old and beautiful.
Inland from the developed coast the pace of
change has been much slower. Much of the
peninsula is uninhabited, harsh mountainous
desert and plateau. What the region lacks in
population it makes up for in dramatic scenery:
folded rock strata exposed in a sheer canyon wall,
sandstone changing colours in the setting sun,
jagged mountain peaks against a bright blue sky.
Excursions into the peninsula can be taken from
Sharm and it is also possible to arrange camping
trips to allow you to experience the desert sky at
night, littered with stars and galaxies.
Carved cross, St Catherine's Monastery
St Catherine’s & Mount
Sinai
Man-made arch, Sinai Peninsula
34
At the heart of the peninsula is Mount Sinai,
where the Ten Commandments were revealed to
Moses. The mountain also overlooks the valley
where Moses encountered the Burning Bush, and
it was on this site that the Byzantine Empress,
Helena, founded a monastery in 337 AD. The
monastery was fortified against raiders, and
dwindling numbers of monks received a boost
when the remains of St Catherine, an early
Christian martyr, were found nearby at the
summit of Egypt’s highest mountain. Today the
monastery is open to visitors who can admire the
St Catherines Monastery, Sinai
Pyramids
and Petra
This itinerary has been designed to feature the
highlights of two fascinating countries. Due to
good transport links between Egypt and Jordan it
is possible to combine visiting the ancient
treasures of Egypt with the legendary city of Petra.
Camels, Sinai Desert
Day 1
Fly to Cairo from the UK. Transfer
on arrival to your hotel in Cairo or
Giza.
Day 2
of Giza, Memphis and Saqqara.
Day 3:
Private guided tour of the Egyptian
Museum and Old Cairo.
Day 4
Fly to Aswan and join a three-night
cruise to Luxor. Afternoon to visit
Karnak and Luxor Temples. Sail to
Aswan.
Day 5
Tour the West Bank, including the
Valley of the Kings. Sail to Esna in
the afternoon.
Day 6
Visit the Temple of Horus. Continue
to Kom Ombo and visit the Temple
of Sobek and Haroeris. Sail to
Aswan.
Day 7
Visit the Temple of Philae and the
High Dam before transferring to the
airport for your flight to Sharm.
Spend three nights at your hotel in
Sharm to relax.
Days 8-9
At leisure.
Day 10
Transfer to Nuweiba to catch the
ferry across to Aqaba. On arrival in
Aqaba transfer to your hotel in
Petra for three nights.
Day 11
Full-day private guided tour of Petra.
Day 12
Day at leisure to continue exploring
Petra.
Day 13
Transfer to the Dead Sea for two
nights.
Day 14
Day at leisure.
Day 15
Transfer to airport and fly back to
the UK.
EXTENSIONS
Wadi El Raha
WADI EL RAHA, ST CATHERINE’S
None of the hotels in the St Catherine’s area are
really top-class, but the Wadi El Raha is a good
comfortable option with some character. It was
built from locally quarried stone, which makes it
an attractive building in harmony with the
surroundings. The rooms are large and have great
views over the monastery and Mount Sinai,
offering a pleasant base for your time in the
region.
The road to Petra
Connections to Jordan
Jordan is just a short hop across the Gulf of
Aqaba from Sharm, and an itinerary combining
the two countries can be easily designed. Ferries
connect Nuweiba (up the coast from Sharm) and
Aqaba, although the sailings are sometimes
affected by bad weather. Those not wishing to
travel by ferry can fly between Sharm and
Amman.
For those interested in the impressive temples at
Abu Simbel, extra time could be spent in Aswan
in order to visit this magnificent site by a cruise on
Lake Nasser or by flights from Aswan.
Alternatively, time in Jordan can be extended to
include a desert experience at Wadi Rum or
trekking in some of the spectacular nature
reserves.
Egypt
Telephone: 01993 838 410
35
Jordan
36
he legendary draw of Jordan is Petra,
T
has left their mark in churches bursting with
is such that all the sights combine easily into
rightfully considered one of the ‘must-see’
mosaics, colonnaded streets and impregnable
logical itineraries, making Jordan a
sights of the region, if not the world. The
fortresses. More recently the efforts of the Royal
wonderfully simple place to visit. In addition,
beauty of the country is that it is a compact
Society for the Conservation of Nature
it combines well with Egypt, allowing the
microcosm of Middle Eastern history. The
(RSCN) have created beautiful reserves, home
visitor the opportunity of seeing both the
Nabateans of Petra, biblical characters,
to rare fauna such as the Arabian Oryx, and
pyramids and Petra in one trip. All of these
Classical city builders and Crusader armies
stunning scenery crossed with hiking trails. In
attractions draw people to Jordan, but perhaps
have all played out their roles across a
the Dead Sea and Gulf of Aqaba, Jordan also
the greatest memory most visitors take away
dramatic landscape of red sandstone canyons,
has two great destinations for unwinding at
with them is of a people of wonderful
desert expanses and salt-laden waters. Each
the end of a trip. The geography of the country
friendship and hospitality.
Audley in Jordan
Jordan is a wonderful destination in which you
can choose to see as much or as little as you like.
It is possible to spend no more than a long
weekend focussing on Petra or a longer journey
of up to two weeks taking in the major
archaeological sites, spending time walking and
hiking in the RSCN reserves and leaving a few
days to unwind on the shores of the Dead Sea or
on the Red Sea at Aqaba. We use private drivers
and guides, and normally you will be accompanied
by the same driver and vehicle throughout your
trip and will have the appropriate local guides for
each of the sites you visit. There are good
transport links between Jordan and Egypt, and
some of our clients choose to combine the two,
enabling them to see both the pyramids and
Petra in one trip.
Accommodation
With one or two notable exceptions, there is
little in the way of traditional, character
accommodation in Jordan: most of the hotels we
use are part of international chains that deliver
excellent comfort and service, with uniform style
and standards across each of the rooms within
the hotel. Most of these hotels have made efforts
to reflect traditional architecture and design,
although in a modern setting. When visiting the
RSCN reserves, accommodation varies in style
and size but tends to be quite basic. In some
instances you will be in a campsite with shared
bathroom facilities, in others you will be in a
remote lodge constructed from adobe. In all
instances there are either restaurants or kitchens
that can prepare all meals if advised in advance.
Transport
Jordan has an excellent road network, and the
length of the country can be traversed in a
matter of hours. Most of your travelling will be
on these roads, in private air-conditioned cars or
minibuses. In addition, flights link Amman and
Aqaba, and there is a service from Amman to
Sharm El Sheikh or Cairo for those combining
Jordan with Egypt. Ferries also ply the waters
between Aqaba and the Sinai Peninsula.
Climate
Jordan has a typically Middle Eastern climate in
which summers are very hot, with temperatures
reaching up into the forties celsius. If you are not
adversely affected by heat it is still worth
considering a trip at this time as you will have
sights like Petra almost to yourself. Spring and
autumn are the best times to travel as the days
are warm, with temperatures into the high
twenties celsius with cool nights. Winters can be
surprisingly harsh: Petra has sometimes
experienced snow, and the nights get cold
especially in the desert regions. Winter is also
when the majority of the rain falls, but showers
tend to be short and sharp.
Jordan
Telephone: 01993
01869 276
838 250
415
Muscians, Jerash
37
The Citadel, Amman
Amman
The capital of Jordan is a modern, bustling place.
Most of the architecture is concrete and steel,
circa 1960, but there are the odd dramatic
exceptions, such as the King Abdullah Mosque.
The city is not entirely the product of the late
20th century and remnants of its history are a
pleasant surprise to stumble across, such as the
Roman amphitheatre and attendant Odeon found
at the heart of downtown Amman. The citadel
sits atop a hill overlooking the amphitheatre and is
a patchwork of archaeological digs of Roman,
Byzantine and Islamic remains. Amman has several
excellent museums, such as the Jordanian
Archaeological Museum on the citadel, but
perhaps one of the most interesting is the much
less visited Royal Automobile Museum, a fantastic
collection of the late King Hussein’s cars.
THE AMMAN MARRIOTT
The Marriott is located near Jebel Hussein, one of
the city’s most popular shopping districts, with
easy access to the shops and markets that form
part of Amman’s attractive downtown bustle. The
hotel has a warm and cosy feel, with all 293
rooms offering the same comfortable, upmarket
but unpretentious international style that you
would expect to find in Marriott hotels the world
over.
Jerash & the Decapolis
The Four Seasons, Amman
THE FOUR SEASONS, AMMAN
Located in the upmarket diplomatic district of
Amman, the Four Seasons has very effectively
brought its brand of exclusive, luxury
accommodation to the capital. The 192 rooms
and suites are decorated in Four Seasons’ hallmark
style, blending classic and contemporary designs,
using dark woods and rich colours. Local flavour is
introduced in the Seasons restaurant, and the
hotel also has Italian and Asian restaurants as well
as several bars.
38
Temple of Artemis, Jerash
The Decapolis was a Graeco-Roman
confederation of ten cities in a region now
straddling Jordan and Syria. Jerash was a member,
and today is probably the best-preserved Classical
city in the region. From the dramatic colonnaded
agora, you make your way up the cobbled,
arcaded street, alongside the ruts made by Roman
cart wheels, past their shop fronts and above the
sophisticated sewer system that runs beneath the
stones. At the far end of the city is the Temple of
Artemis, fronted by a small forest of columns
topped with exquisitely carved Corinthian capitols.
A short way north of Jerash is another Decapolis
city, Umm Qais, atop a ridge with far-reaching
views over the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan
Valley.
Classic
Jordan
Jordan’s major sites can all be comfortably visited
in a one-week trip, with time left over to unwind.
Starting in the north, with visits to Jerash and
Amman, you then take the King’s Highway south
through Madaba, Mount Nebo and Kerak to
Petra. You have two full days to explore the lost
city before travelling, via Wadi Rum, to the Dead
Sea resorts for a couple of days to relax.
The Oval Plaza, Jerash
Day 1
Fly from the UK to Amman. Transfer
on arrival to your Amman hotel.
Day 2
Amman and Jerash.
Day 3
Travel down the King’s Highway to
Petra, visiting Madaba, Mount Nebo
and Kerak en route. Three-night stay
in Petra.
Day 4
Day 5
Day at leisure to continue exploring
Petra.
Day 6
Morning visit to Wadi Rum, including
a 4WD trip into the desert.
Continue on to the Dead Sea for
two nights.
Day 7
At leisure on the Dead Sea.
Day 8
Transfer to the airport and fly back
to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
Kharaneh Desert Castle
Mosaic, Mount Nebo
The Desert Castles
Heading east from Amman into the desert you
come to a series of fortified buildings, most of
which were actually Ottoman country estates.
These can be visited as a “loop” trip in a day from
Amman, or you can take a little more time if you
want to get to some of the more remote castles
and perhaps to visit the Shaumari Wildlife
Reserve. The two most popular desert castles are
Qasr al-Hallabat and Azraq. Hallabat was a
Roman fortification completely rebuilt by the
Ottomans in the 8th century, and boasts some
excellent mosaics, frescoes, and a wonderful
hamman (traditional bath house). Azraq was
originally a fort on the old Roman border, later
being used by the Byzantines, and also Lawrence
of Arabia.
For those interested in diving, time at the end of
the trip can be spent in Aqaba rather than the
Dead Sea. Alternatively, time at the Dead Sea
could be extended for further relaxation or to
explore the sights of northern Jordan in greater
depth, such as the Desert Castles and the oryx
breeding project at Shaumari. There is also the
option of taking a flight or ferry from Aqaba to
Sinai and spending some time exploring the
wonders of Ancient Egypt.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
requirements.
Madaba & Mount Nebo
Jordan, although an Islamic nation, has a strong,
vibrant and well-preserved Christian heritage. The
town of Madaba is still Christian, and amongst its
churches are some superb mosaics, the most
famous of which is a 6th-century mosaic map
depicting the Holy Land. Mount Nebo is a very
important Christian shrine recently visited by the
late Pope John Paul II, for it is here that Moses
first caught sight of the Holy Land, and is believed
by many to be buried.
Jordan
Telephone: 01993 838 415
Mount Nebo
39
Petra by night
The King’s Highway &
Kerak
Petra
No matter how many times you have seen Petra
on television or in films, nothing prepares you for
the first time you exit the tiny cleft of the Siq (the
1.2 kilometre narrow canyon leading into the city)
to be confronted by the enormous splendour of
the Treasury Tomb. Built by the Nabateans, who
grew rich through their control of the
frankincense trade routes through Arabia, Petra
fell into obscurity about a thousand years ago,
with its existence - and location - kept a closelyguarded secret by the local Bedouin. In 1812, John
Louis Burckhardt tricked his way into the site,
opening the way for generations of awe-struck
visitors.
For over 3,000 years, the route from Amman
south to the Arabian Peninsula has been busy
with pilgrims, merchants and conquering armies.
Winding through sheer wadis and along
precipitous ridges, it passes numerous important
historical sites. For the modern visitor, it begins
with a visit to Madaba and Mount Nebo before
heading south to the crusader castles. The most
impressive of these is Kerak, whose solid crusader
walls refined by the Mamlukes sit on top of a
steep outcrop, making this an almost impregnable
position.
The Movenpick Resort
THE MOVENPICK RESORT, PETRA
Tomb facades, Petra
40
Located about one minute’s walk from the gate to
Petra, the Movenpick is built in beautiful
Arabesque style, with graceful arches, intricate tilework, delicate mashrabiya wooden screens and
oriental artefacts. The rooms are more modern
and European in style, but are quite large and still
offer great comfort. A wonderful roof garden
provides the perfect place to watch the sun set
over the sandstone hills, relaxing perhaps after a
session in the hammam to recover from your
day’s exertions.
Local children, Petra
Long Weekend
in Petra
With a relatively short flight and little time-change,
it is very easy to make a flying visit to Jordan and
still see a great number of the major sights,
including those of the King’s Highway, Wadi Rum,
and of course a full day at the legendary city of
Petra itself.
Day 1
Day 2
Travel down the King’s Highway
visiting Madaba, Mt Nebo and Kerak.
Spend two nights at Petra.
Day 3
Day 4
Morning visit to Wadi Rum, including
a 4WD trip into the desert.
Continue to the Dead Sea for a final
night.
Day 5
to the UK.
EXTENSIONS
This trip can easily be extended to include more
time at leisure at either the Dead Sea or the Red
Sea at Aqaba. Alternatively, for the more active, a
couple of days could be added at one of the
RSCN reserves for the chance to do some hiking
amidst dramatic, inspiring scenery.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
requirements.
Sunset, Dead Sea
The Movenpick Dead Sea Resort
The Dead Sea
For millennia people have been coming to the
Dead Sea, drawn by the medicinal qualities of the
mineral-laden waters. The waters are also eerily
beautiful, with crystalline formations on the
shoreline surrounded by harsh, unforgiving cliffs.
Being so far below sea-level - at the lowest point
on earth, in fact - temperatures and humidity are
always higher than elsewhere in Jordan. Swimming
in the Dead Sea is a novel experience, with its
sensation of weightlessness, but it does leave you
coated in a layer of salt and the resorts provide
large swimming pools as a salt-free alternative.
Near these resorts, at the head of the lake, is
Bethany-on-the-Jordan, where John the Baptist
preached, and the probable baptismal site of Jesus.
THE MOVENPICK DEAD SEA
RESORT
Located on the shores of the Dead Sea, the
resort is styled as a Bedouin village, running down
a green valley to a swimming pool and therapy
centre. The walls are rough-dressed local stone,
and the style is simple, but no sacrifice of comfort
has been made - the rooms use the best materials
and fabrics for furnishings, and many look out over
the small stream that runs through the village. A
sandy beach forms one side of the large, infinityedge swimming pool, so the view stretches
uninterrupted across the glassy surface of the
Dead Sea. The therapy centre offers hydromassage, mud wraps and a host of other relaxing
and invigorating treatments.
The Treasury, Petra
Jordan
Telephone: 01993 838 415
41
Wadi Rum
Little Petra & Aaron’s Tomb
Not far from Petra is Little Petra, perhaps best
seen before the main site as an atmospheric
introduction to Nabatean tomb architecture. A
suburb of the ancient city, it comes complete with
its own mini-Siq, tombs, temples and various
examples of domestic architecture. When
Burckhardt tricked his way into Petra, he did so by
asking to make a pilgrimage to Aaron’s Tomb.
This remote shrine sits atop the highest peak in
the region beyond the far side of the city. For the
more adventurous, full-day treks can be organised
up to the tomb and back, offering a chance to
enjoy the amazing scenery and get away from the
crowds.
Aqaba
Greatly cherished as the only outlet to the sea,
the port city of Aqaba at the southwestern point
of Jordan provides a breath of fresh air and the
country’s only real beach resort, to which
Jordanians and visitors alike flock in their droves.
Aqaba also boasts nine months of mild summer
weather during autumn, winter and spring. When
temperatures reach a chilly 10C in Amman, the
temperature in Aqaba can be an enviable 25C.
There is plenty to do and see in Aqaba but its
main appeal lies in its coral reef, offering some of
the best diving and snorkelling sites in the world.
42
THE INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL,
AQABA
Diving turtle, Aqaba
The Intercontinental in Aqaba is the latest and
arguably the best beach hotel in Jordan. The
hotel’s situation offers amazing views of the Gulf
of Aqaba, as well as a prime section of beach. The
style is modern and elegant, and the rooms are
comfortable and well decorated. The leisure
facilities attract many visitors, with a world class
health club and spa and a comprehensive
watersports centre offering diving, waterskiing and
windsurfing.
Wadi Rum
In recent times the vast desert expanse of Wadi
Rum has become famed as the location for many
of Lawrence of Arabia’s exploits, but traders have
passed across the landscape for thousands of
years. Canyons, offering respite from the powerful
midday sun, bear Thamudic inscriptions dating
back two millennia. Rum is a place of towering
sandstone outcrops, with sheer red sides and
rounded summits. Unusual geological formations
such as rock bridges are easy to find, the local
fauna less so though ibex, hyrax and Arabian
desert cats are all resident. A visit to Wadi Rum
can be an excursion in a 4WD driven by a local
Bedouin, an overnight stay in a basic, fixed camp,
or a mobile camping trip on camelback lasting
several nights.
Intercontinental, Aqaba
Wild
Jordan
More famous for its archaeology, Jordan is also at
the forefront of conservation in the Middle East
and under the auspices of the RSCN has achieved
some remarkable results in a short time. This trip
showcases the best of the RSCN reserves whilst
also including some of the major highlights of the
country.
Day 1
Day 2
Jerash, Madaba and Mount Nebo.
Overnight in Ajloun Nature Reserve.
Day 3
Spend the morning exploring the
reserve before driving to Dana
Nature Reserve. Overnight in the
guesthouse.
Day 4
Hike from the guesthouse to Feynan
Lodge in the Dana Nature Reserve.
Day 5
Collected from the lodge and driven
to Petra for a two night stay.
Day 6
Private guided tour of Petra.
Day 7
You will be driven to Wadi Rum,
where you camp after exploring the
desert scenery.
Day 8
Return to Amman, via Shobak and
Kerak castles, for a final night.
Day 9
to the UK.
Dana Nature Reserve
EXTENSIONS
This trip can be extended with some time at
leisure, either at Aqaba on the Red Sea or at one
of the Dead Sea resorts. Alternatively take one of
the onward connections to Egypt from Aqaba and
spend a few more days exploring the sights of the
Sinai, or the Nile Valley.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
Dana Guest House
Feynan Eco-lodge
The Royal Society for the
Conservation of Nature
Dana Nature Reserve &
Feynan Eco-Lodge
The RSCN runs five main reserves in Jordan, and
has followed a very successful model pioneered in
the Dana Nature Reserve, where the local
Bedouin are actively involved in the running and
managing of the reserves and developing an
excellent eco-tourism infrastructure. As well as
protecting areas of beauty, rare animals are also
bred in the reserves, such as the oryx and ibex.
We are corporate members of the RSCN and
promote them where we can. Even if you decide
not to include a visit to one of their reserves, their
excellent Wild Jordan centre in Amman showcases
their activities, sells handicrafts from the
communities they work with and has a great little
café: all reasons to drop in for a couple of hours.
The first RSCN reserve created, Dana covers a
system of wadis running down to Wadi Araba just
north of Petra, and is home to wildlife, jawdropping landscapes, and thousands of years of
history. Best explored on foot, there are a series of
trails - some guided, some self-guided - which take
in a variety of sights from canyon scenery to local
villages and ancient copper mines. Of the various
accommodation options, the most interesting is the
new Feynan Eco-lodge which opened in early 2005.
Reached on foot, the traditional adobe building is
wonderfully remote, with solar power through the
day and candlelight at night. Near the Dana
Guesthouse the visitor centre sells silver jewellry
created by the women of Dana village.
requirements.
Jordan
Telephone: 01993 838 415
43
Oman
44
lichés like “Jewel of Arabia” are hard to
C
spine, riven by sheer canyons that drop
modern development is encouraged to mirror
avoid when describing Oman, because it
dizzyingly away revealing the contorted inner
this style, and to remain low-rise, which
is the country that mirrors most people’s images
strata of the rock, while the golden dunes of the
makes even the cities easy on the eye. The
of the region, and best lives up to these
Wahiba Sands give way to narrowing wadis,
Omani people eagerly display the hospitality
expectations. Part of this is the remarkable
river beds that carve steep walls hiding deep,
famed in this part of the world, and are
natural scenery, part is its heritage and part is
cool pools of water. Untouched white-sand
always ready with a smile. National dress is
the generous and hospitable nature of the
beaches fringe the Indian Ocean, and some
still very common-place and the flowing white
people. Geographically the country is
offer the rare privilege of seeing nesting turtles.
robes of the men and colourful headdresses of
spectacular and beautiful. The Hajar
Oman has looked after its heritage well, and
the women are both attractive and exotic, a
Mountains rear into the sky along Oman’s
the old forts have been expertly restored;
metaphor for the country itself.
Audley in Oman
There are several different itineraries you could
follow through Oman. The core of most visits is
going to be time spent in the north of the country
on a circuit combining Muscat, Nizwa and the
surrounding mountains, the desert, and some time
on the coast (to see the nesting turtles). This
would normally take about a week depending on
what you choose to include. There is then the
option of rounding off your trip with either a bit
of culture, by flying to the stunning Musandam
Peninsula, or to Salalah to see an area that is quite
different from the rest of the country; or there is
the option of spending a few days in one of the
excellent Muscat hotels to relax, unwind and
enjoy a bit of sunshine. It is important to
remember that tourism has not yet really taken
hold in Oman, and as a result the quality of some
services (guides, hotel staff etc) is not yet as good
as elsewhere. As always, our preferred policy is to
employ Omanis wherever possible, and it should
be noted that it will take time for them to gain
the necessary experience in dealing with
international visitors. However, as long as you are
aware of this before you travel, there is no reason
to let it put you off visiting this wonderful country
in the company of these smiling, friendly hosts.
Transport and Guides
There are three basic options for time spent in
Oman: self-drive; a private car and driver; or a
private car, driver and guide. Roads in Oman are
generally in good condition, and not particularly
busy especially outside of Muscat. Driving is on
the right, standards of driving are not that great
and some of the routes, like those in the
mountains and along the coast between Sur and
Muscat, are gravel rather than tarmac. But for
those who are confident in their driving and
perhaps have some experience driving on the
right and on graded tracks the conditions should
pose few problems. If you take a car and driver,
the vehicle will have air-conditioning, though the
drivers do not always speak English. Many of the
sights are natural, such as the mountains and
wadis, and many of the forts have some sort of
interpretive displays, all following a similar pattern,
so whilst a guide can add to the experience, they
are not essential.
Accommodation
Muscat has a good selection of hotels, including
one or two that are excellent. Most are in the
five-star bracket, and are expensive compared to
hotels in many other countries: at the moment
demand for hotel rooms outstrips supply which
squeezes the prices up. This also means that
those looking to travel over the spring, autumn
and winter should book well in advance to
ensure there is availability. For the budget
traveller there isn’t much selection in Muscat –
there are one or two three-star hotels, but they
tend to only be marginally less expensive than the
cheaper five-star options, but are of a significantly
lower standard: it is definitely worth spending a
bit more money on accommodation in Muscat.
Outside of Muscat in the north, accommodation
is fairly simple, of a two- to three-star standard.
We always use the best available, which tends to
be clean, comfortable and basic. Salalah has two
international four- to five-star standard hotels.
will be somewhere in the twenties, perhaps into
the thirties in the autumn and late spring. Rain is
fleeting and tends only to come in the middle of
the winter as short, sharp showers. Temperatures
are considerably cooler in the mountains than on
the coast. Salalah has a very different climate in
that it has a monsoon season, called the khareef.
From June to September, wet winds create a
thick fog that coats the mountains. Rather than
heavy rain, the fog deposits moisture on the
vegetation and ground creating luxuriant green
hills.
Climate
Oman is not a summer destination: temperatures
can rise significantly above 40C and humidity is
unpleasantly high. However for the rest of the
year, from October through to April, it is a
wonderfully pleasant place to visit: temperatures
Rustaq Fort
Oman
Telephone: 01993
01869 838
276 430
250
Old men, Nizwa souq
45
Old Muscat
Muscat
Muscat is essentially a collection of small cities and
towns separated by serrated ridges. In total it
stretches along perhaps 25 kilometres of the
coastline. At its heart is old Muscat, a walled city
with a natural harbour watched over by the twin
fortresses of Jalali and Mirani, where the Sultan
has his palace. Nearby, the historic commercial
district of Muttrah spreads along the shore of a
wide bay and it is here that you’ll find the old
souq and the fish souq. The houses have
delicately styled balconies that betray the influence
the Portuguese once had in the area. Qurm is a
largely residential area where most of the hotels
can be found. Centred on the sculpted contours
of Qurm Natural Park it has a long stretch of
beach to enjoy. Between Qurm and the airport at
Seeb is a long ribbon of residential suburbs, one
of which is home to the modern Sultan Qaboos
Mosque, a beautiful piece of architecture
combining traditional Arab and Persian influences
with a dash of modernity.
S H A N G R I -L A B A R R A L J I S S A H
RESORT
A 40-minute drive from the airport and a shorter
drive to the old city of Muscat is the Shangri-La
Barr Al Jissah resort, the newest resort in the
capital, offering the best of Omani hospitality and
ultimate Arabian luxury. Comprising three deluxe
46
Camel transport, Muscat
hotels Al Waha, Al Bandar and Al Husn, over 20
restaurants and cafés and an exhaustive range of
21st century leisure facilities the resort is a
complete experience in itself. It is however the
stunning location that is the immediate attraction
of the Shangri-La. The dramatic backdrop of the
deep red, rocky mountains contrasts dramatically
with the white sands and clear turquoise waters
of the private bay which is home to the resort.
Whichever of the three hotels you stay in, your
room will look out over the ocean, as well as
having its own private balcony or terrace, allowing
you to enjoy the view.
Jewellery shop, Muttrah souq
Long Weekend
in Muscat
A direct flight to Muscat takes seven and a half
hours, and crosses just three time zones, which
makes Oman a tantalising possibility as a shortbreak destination. This short trip still allows you to
see the major sights of Muscat as well as the
chance to visit some of the forts, towns and
mountainous scenery of the interior.
Day 1
Fly to Muscat. Transfer on arrival to
your hotel.
Day 2
Muscat city tour including the Grand
Mosque, Bait Al Zubair Museum,
Old Muscat and the Al Alam Palace.
Day 3
Drive to Nizwa via Seeb fish souq,
Nakhl fort and springs and Birkat Al
Mauz, a village with an attractive fort.
Spend one night in Nizwa.
Day 4
Tour of Nizwa’s famous round
tower fort and its souq, return to
Muscat.
Day 5
Transfer to Seeb airport for your
flight home.
TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL
requirements.
Sultan Qaboos Mosque, Muscat
The Chedi
THE CHEDI, MUSCAT
One of the newest hotels in Muscat, The Chedi
has done much to raise the profile of the country.
Set in beautifully tended gardens, the hotel is a
series of low-rise white buildings nestled in the
greenery and reflected in still pools of water.
Inside there is a strong Asian influence: dark
woods, slatted blinds, low beds and crisp white
linens decorate the rooms, whilst the restaurant
serves a menu of Arabic, Mediterranean, Asian
and Indian cuisine and is one of the best places to
eat in Muscat. There are two pools for guests to
enjoy, and a sizeable stretch of beach as well.
Pool, Crowne Plaza
THE CROWNE PLAZA, MUSCAT
Of all the good beachfront hotels in Muscat, the
Crowne Plaza is probably the best value. It is
quite a bit less expensive than most of its
competitors, and enjoys a great location on a
rocky headland, above Qurm beach receding into
the distance. A small bay provides the hotel’s own
beach, and there is also a pool. The 200 spacious
rooms are well appointed in a modern style and
have been recently refurbished. The hotel is
unpretentious and there are four restaurants
including a rare Persian restaurant.
Al Alam Palace, Old Muscat
Oman
Telephone: 01993 838 430
47
Nizwa Fort
The Batinah Plain
Nizwa
North of Muscat lies an area of cultivated land
sandwiched between the Jebel Akhdar massif and
the ocean. Protecting the springs that form at the
base of the mountains was historically important
as these water sources allowed the Batinah Plain
to be made fertile, and so a series of forts was
built. Today three have been expertly restored:
Rustaq, Nakhl and Al Hazm. A trip to these forts
is a photographer’s dream: crenulated battlements
draw the eye towards the extensive palm
plantations and towering mountain backdrop.
Inside, dungeons, secret passages, painted wooden
ceilings and collections of ancient muskets add to
the sense of drama.
Isolated by the Hajar Mountains from the coast
and the outside influences brought to the coastal
cities through trade and conquest, Nizwa
developed as a bastion of conservatism. A thorn
in the side of many who tried to unify and rule
the country, the town is dominated by its
principle form of defence, the massive Nizwa fort,
a circular structure some 35 metres high and with
a diameter of 46 metres. The narrow, winding
staircase to the fighting platform is protected at
numerous intervals by slots in the roof, through
which boiling date syrup could be poured on
would-be attackers. All these factors combined to
render the fort practically unassailable. Under the
Nakhl Fort
Nizwa cattle market
48
shadow of the fort is Nizwa souq, an ancient
market now housed in a modern arcade built
exactingly to traditional design. As well as
jewellery, muskets and khunjars (traditional curved
knives worn by men) there is a wonderful Friday
auction. Locals come to parade their livestock for
sale to the highest bidder in a lively swirl of
elegant white-clothed men and black-coated
women with colourful headdresses - and some
anxious cows and goats!
Classic
Oman
Taking just over a week, this comprehensive
itinerary demonstrates how compact and
accessible the major sights of Oman are. Most
touring itineraries in Oman will be based on this
outline, a circuit taking in Muscat, the forts and
wadis of the Batinah Plain, the interior town of
Nizwa in the shadow of Jebel Shams, the serried
dunes of the Wahiba Sands, the nesting turtles at
Ras Al Jinz and the stunning drive along the coast
between Sur and Muscat.
Painted ceiling, Jabreen Fort
Around Nizwa
North of Nizwa is Jabreen, arguably the best fort
to visit in the country. Superbly restored and
stocked with artefacts, it gives a good idea of what
life must have been like for the original inhabitants.
Its prize attractions are the painted ceilings, which
are some of the best executed examples of this
decorative art in Oman. South of Nizwa is Bahla, a
massive fort and defensive complex around a palm
plantation. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, its
vast earthen brick walls tower 50 metres above
the surrounding village, and because it has never
undergone major restoration it reveals much about
ancient building techniques.
Day 1
to your chosen hotel.
Day 2
Day 3
Set off along the Batinah coast, visit
Seeb fish souq, drive through date
palms and visit Nakhl springs and
Nakhl fort. Continue to the village of
Wakan to see the terraced fruit
farming and enjoy an exhilarating
drive through Wadi Abhyad. Spend
the night in a coastal hotel.
Day 4
En route to Nizwa today you visit
Rustaq fort and cross over the
northern edge of the Hajar
Mountains. Stop at the 4,000-yearold beehive tombs at Bat and the
fantastically restored Jabreen fort.
Spend two nights in Nizwa.
Day 5
Tour Nizwa, visiting the vast tower
fort and the souq, then explore the
surrounding area including the
deserted village of Tanuf and Jebel
Shams, the highest peak in eastern
Arabia, as well as the fort of Bahla.
Day 6
Drive to the Wahiba Sands and visit
a traditional Bedouin encampment,
before enjoying the beautiful Wadi
Bani Khalid. Continue to Sur for the
night. Visit Ras Al Jinz in the evening
to see nesting turtles.
Day 7
Visit the dhow yard and fishing jetty
of Sur before taking the dramatic
coastal road back to Muscat for your
final night.
Day 8
Transfer to the airport for your flight
home.
THE FALAJ DARIS, NIZWA
Something of a local institution, the Falaj Daris is
one of the oldest hotels outside of Muscat. After
enjoying a welcome coffee from the tribesman
surrounded by traditional paraphernalia at the
door, you pass into the first courtyard where
attractive greenery surrounds a small pool. The
next courtyard is far larger and has a second, also
far larger, pool. The rooms are simple but
comfortable and the buffet restaurant provides a
good selection of Arabic specialities, which is
important as Nizwa is not blessed with many
great restaurants.
EXTENSIONS
To round out this trip and make it a complete
exploration of Oman, tag on a few days in Salalah
or Musandam, or both. Salalah, with its almost
tropical climate, monsoon season and famous
frankincense is very different to the rest of Oman.
A flight up to Khasab opens up the fjord-like inlets
of remote Musandam and can be tied in with a
few days in Dubai afterwards.
Oman
Telephone: 01993 838 430
Inquisitive buyer, Nizwa souq
The Falaj Daris
49
Village, Jebel Akhdar
Jebel Akhdar
Jebel Akhdar, meaning Green Mountain, refers to
the northern section of the Hajar mountains. As
you take the road out of Nizwa heading for Jebel
Shams, the highest peak in Oman at about 3,000
metres, you start to climb past ancient villages
steeply terraced into the mountainside. Near the
summit is a wide plateau from which you can
peer into Wadi Ghul, Oman’s Grand Canyon. A
sheer drop of over a kilometre, with dramatically
contorted vertical rock faces opposite, it simply
takes the breath away. Perched halfway up the
canyon wall, in a seemingly inaccessible location at
the head of the valley, is an abandoned village
whose narrow terraces can still be made out. If
you look very closely you can see the footpath
that makes its way under the rim of the canyon to
the village. It is a walk of about three hours each
way from the plateau.
Al Jabal Al Akhdar Hotel
50
AL JABAL AL AKHDAR HOTEL,
JEBEL AKHDAR
The only accommodation actually based in the
mountains, this small hotel is simple but clean and
comfortable and provides a great base for
exploring the area. The unusual, colourful, stainedglass domes in the entrance hall and dining room
depict scenes and wildlife from the local area and
ensure that the hotel is flooded with light. The
rooms and suites are basic but modern. The
restaurant has a varied and enjoyable choice on
the a la carte menu and 24-hour room service is
provided by the friendly staff.
The Wahiba Sands
The Wahiba Sands is a large desert area just four
hours’ drive from Muscat. Its geography is mixed:
in the north are smaller dunes and wide flat areas,
to the east the dunes pile up to 100 metres high
against the ocean, and in the south, at Barr El
Hikman, is a vast expanse of flat sand dotted with
treacherous salt flats and home to huge
populations of migrating birds. A surprisingly wide
array of flora and fauna call the sands home, as do
about 3,000 Bedouin, some of whom you will get
to meet when you visit the Wahiba. There are
also camps to experience a night in the desert, a
remarkable experience that starts with a golden
sunset, continues with a densely-starred sky and
concludes with the soft light of a desert dawn.
Traditional Akhdar house
Grand Tour
of Oman
Once you have completed this tour, there is little
of Oman that you will not have had the chance to
explore. This is a more detailed version of the
Classic Oman itinerary, giving you greater time at
leisure to explore places like Muscat and Salalah
independently as well as venturing in greater
depth into many of the sights, such as spending a
night in the desert. It also includes a visit to
Salalah, a very different region to the rest of the
country, and birthplace of the present Sultan.
Day 1
Fly to Muscat and spend three nights
in the city.
Day 2
Day 3
Free time in Muscat.
Day 4
Set off along the Batinah coast, drive
through date palms and visit Nakhl
springs and Nakhl fort, the village of
Wakan and enjoy an exhilarating
drive through Wadi Abhyad. Spend
the night in a coastal hotel.
Day 5
En route to Nizwa today you visit
Rustaq fort and cross over the
northern edge of the Hajar
Mountains, stopping at the 4,000year-old beehive tombs at Bat and
the fantastically restored Jabreen
fort. Spend two nights in Nizwa.
Day 6
Full day in Jebal Akhdar and Jebel
Shams, driving and walking amongst
the most spectacular scenery in the
country.
Day 7
Begin the day touring Nizwa, visiting
the vast fort and souq. On your way
to the Wahiba Sands stop at a
couple of local towns to see the
Bedouin men and women trading at
markets. Overnight in a desert camp.
Day 8
From the desert you drive to the
beautiful Wadi Bani Khalid and
continue on to tour Sur, visiting the
dhow yards and fish jetty. You stay
overnight in Sur.
Day 9
You take the attractive coastal road
back to Muscat, before flying from
Muscat to Salalah where you spend
three nights.
Day 10
Full-day tour of the Salalah region,
including Mirbat, Job’s tomb,
Mughsail beach and the dramatic
mountain roads.
Day 11
Free time in Salalah.
Day 12
Return flight from Salalah to Muscat
for two final nights.
Day 13
Free day at leisure in Muscat.
Day 14
Return to UK.
The Wahiba Sands
Greenback turtle, Ras Al Jinz
Fins Beach, near Muscat
Ras Al Jinz
The Sur to Muscat Road
Reached from the Wahiba Sands via the stunning
water pools and shady canyon of Wadi Bani
Khalid, Ras Al Jinz is a small sandy bay where
greenback turtles come ashore to nest all year
round and is a protected area. You need a permit
to visit the beach at night, and we can obtain this
for you. Visits are undertaken in the company of a
guide who ensures minimal disruption to the huge
turtles as they dig their nests and lay their eggs.
You should also be able to see some of the
hatchlings making their precarious way down to
the ocean.
Due for conversion to tarmac along its entire
length by the end of 2006, this is a wonderfully
scenic drive sandwiched between the contorted
slopes of the Eastern Hajar mountains and the
shoreline, passing through picturesque villages at
the head of gently flowing wadis, such as Shab and
Tiwi. There is also a historical angle to the
journey: at Qalhat are the ruins of a large coastal
town visited by Marco Polo. Closer to Muscat,
shining white beaches nestle under rocky
overhangs, and a collapsed cave has created an
impressive sinkhole.
Oman
Telephone: 01993 838 430
51
Green wadi during the Khareef
Salalah
Salalah and the surrounding region of Dhofar offer
a remarkable contrast to the rest of the country.
Between June and September the monsoon
(Khareef) blows cool, wet air off the Indian Ocean
at a time when the rest of the country is
sweltering. As well as providing a temperate
summer retreat, it also turns the countryside a
lush and tropical green. Salalah, the birthplace of
the current Sultan, sits on a long sandy beach
fringed with palm trees yet only kilometres from
the desert. The mountains behind Salalah capture
moisture that allows the famous frankincense
trees to grow and produce the incense that is
found in the Salalah markets and all over the
world. A town with a modern and spacious feel
to it, surrounded by dramatic scenery, Salalah is
the best place to base yourself for the exploration
of the region.
Dhofari fisherman
Dhofar
The Crowne Plaza
52
The Dhofar region around Salalah holds
numerous attractions for the visitor and is worth
taking a day or two to explore. The mountains home to the Jebali tribesmen with their traditional
rifles and pastoral lifestyle - dominate the Dhofar
hinterland. The most spectacular pass across them
is the “Furious Road” which rises 400 metres in
three miles through eight hairpin bends. North of
Salalah lies Job’s Tomb, whilst west along the
coast is Mughsayl, famous for its giant blowholes
on the cliff tops. Heading east, you come to Khor
Rawri, one of a number of creeks in the area: low
salt content makes it a haven for fish and bird
species and it is also an archaeological site dating
to the 1st century AD. Further along the coast
you come to Mirbat, a picturesque town whose
small fort looks out over the sea.
Traditional window, Mirbat
Inlet, Musandam
THE CROWNE PLAZA, SALALAH
Extensive landscaped tropical gardens and
coconut groves cocoon this hotel, situated on the
edge of the wonderfully long Salalah beach.
Recently refurbished, the simple, modern design
incorporates Arabian influences and offers a
typically hospitable regional welcome. Three
restaurants and several bars offer a pleasing choice
of views over the sea in a cool and serene
atmosphere. There are a number of pools in the
grounds as well as tennis courts, a gym,
watersports and diving facilities and a new ninehole golf course.
Frankincense tree, Dhofar
EVASON HIDEAWAY
ZIGHY BAY
AND
SPA
AT
Due to open early in 2007, Evason will
complement the remote and beautiful peninsula
with its renowned brand of innovative style that
makes the best use of traditional materials and
design. There are 85 pool villas and pool villa
suites planned, and there will also be a private
marina. A hilltop restaurant will enjoy great views
over the bay, and the coffee shop will showcase
regional specialities Backed by mountains, the
Hideaway will sit on 1.6 kilometres of secluded
beach, and as with all Evason hotels a real
premium will be placed on service. To cap the
experience off, guests will have the option of
arriving by speedboat, along the dramatic road
from the mountains, or by paraglider for the really
adventurous!
The Musandam Peninsula
Musandam is one of the least visited but most
beautiful areas of Oman. An island of Omani
territory, entirely cut off from the rest of the
country by the surrounding United Arab Emirates,
it is a legacy of the tribal lines that dictated local
borders. The Peninsula sticks into the Straits of
Hormuz like a crooked finger, its coastline deeply
scored with jagged creeks that are most often
compared to Norwegian fjords. Dhow cruises
around the coast are one of the real highlights of
Musandam, allowing travellers to enjoy the scenery
and snorkel in the brilliantly clear water. Inland are
small villages and towns with white houses and
small forts such as the regional capital, Khasab.
Khasab
Oman
Telephone: 01993 838 430
53
Libya
54
hroughout its years as something of an
T
Libya is best known: the most extensive and
the desert through Berber subterranean
international pariah, intrepid visitors
best preserved remains of a Roman city
settlements and fortified mountain villages,
continued to visit Libya; now that a
anywhere, while nearby Sabratha has a
the mighty Sahara is reached, and it too is
rapprochement has taken place, the trickle has
wonderful seaside location and one of the most
filled with surprises - rock-art tells of a time
become a steady stream. For those in the know,
remarkable examples of a Roman theatre.
when the area was a fertile land of elephants
there is absolutely no surprise in this: the
Over to the east, the Greek cities of Cyrene,
and giraffes. It also offers the traditional
outstanding Classical ruins and breath-taking
Ptolomais and Apollonia give an equally
beauty of the desert - the gentle slopes and
desert scenery have long been one of the worst-
valuable insight into the Hellenistic world.
steep crests of dunes as far as the eye can see,
kept secrets of the travelling world. It is
Smaller sites, they are fantastically atmospheric
punctuated only by palm-fringed oases with
perhaps for places like Leptis Magna that
and attractively situated. Heading south into
deep still lakes.
Audley in Libya
Tourism may have taken off in Libya in the last
two or three years, but it is still very much in its
infancy. However, thanks to strong Italian links
there is a good amount of experience around and
things will certainly improve. Traditionally people
have travelled to Libya on organised group tours
partly because visas were until recently only
available for groups rather than individuals. We
provide both group and individual travel to Libya.
Individual travel, particularly to the desert, is more
expensive as the cost of guides and 4x4 vehicles
is being shared by fewer people. However
individual travel does offer the greatest flexibility
and the best chance to bond with those Libyans
accompanying you on your trip. Travel is either by
coach, minibus, saloon car or 4WD and you will
always have at least a driver and a guide with you.
For trips to the desert there will also be a cook.
Climate
The climate of Tripoli and the northern coastal
region is Mediterranean, with hot dry summers,
cool winters and some modest rainfall. Weather
can be variable, influenced by the Sahara Desert
and the Mediterranean Sea which moderates daily
temperature ranges. The Sahara is basically very
dry and hot in the summer and cool and dry in
the winter. Temperatures in the summer can
reach 50C during the day but more commonly
are around 40C. Night temperatures can vary
from 30C to 40C. Some people have found
travelling in summer rewarding, but most do not.
The best time for visiting the Sahara is probably
from October to April, when temperatures range
from 15C to 30C during the day and from 5C to
20C at night.
Guiding
Tourism in Libya has expanded dramatically in the
recent past and as such many services have yet to
catch up, particularly hotel and guiding standards.
It is a requirement of the Libyan authorities that
all visitors are accompanied by a guide but there
are insufficient well educated multilingual guides.
The accepted situation is that your accompanying
guide is there to smooth the way with officials
and to direct your driver; they can usually provide
you with some local information and some history
but they are not historians or archaeologists, nor
necessarily multilingual, so a certain amount of
patience and understanding is required of you. A
local guide will be found at each major historical
site to aide your understanding, but you may also
find a guidebook invaluable.
Accommodation
Hotels, like guides, have not yet all caught up with
the boom in visitor numbers. There is also some
distance between our interpretation of what
constitutes a four or five star hotel and the official
Libyan grading system. There is only one genuine
five star hotel in the country, in Tripoli, but it is
very expensive. Most of the accommodation we
use is of a reasonable standard – clean,
comfortable and the best available. We have also
sought out, where possible, hotels with local
character rather than bland, government hotels. In
the desert, accommodation is a mixture of basic
fixed camps, and proper camping. Once again it is
essential that you travel with an open mind and
accept that tourism is a new business. Hopefully
you will enjoy the advantages of the situation,
when you talk to locals who are genuinely
fascinated by foreign cultures or at the market
place when you are not outrageously overcharged
as happens in many tourism-based economies.
Mosque, Ghadames
Local Culture & Etiquette
Libya, like all the countries in this brochure, is
Islamic and appropriate respect needs to be
shown. However unlike the other countries in
the brochure, it has not had massive amounts of
contact with the outside world so etiquette on
dress and behaviour needs particular attention.
Ramadan also has a much greater effect on the
visitor here and we would not recommend
travelling during this period. For more
information on these aspects of visiting Libya,
please contact one of our Libya specialists. You
should also be aware that it is inappropriate and
unwise to discuss politics or religion whilst in
Libya. However, this does not change the fact
that Libyans are a hugely hospitable and friendly
people, and will seek to talk to you and learn
more about you at any occasion: you may even
be lucky enough to be invited to someone’s
house for tea or a meal. Take these invitations up
as it will be a special experience and a real insight
into just how hospitable the Libyans are.
Libya
Telephone: 01869 838
276 435
250
Tuareg man
55
Amphitheatre, Leptis Magna
Leptis Magna
Leptis Magna has deservedly earned a reputation
for having the most complete and impressive
Roman ruins in the whole of North Africa. Leptis
Magna was associated with the Roman Empire for
more than 600 years from the 2nd century BC,
and was significantly expanded with markets,
theatres and forums during this period. These
Roman structures, well preserved under sand for
centuries, have made the city an important area
for archaeological study since the 1920s. Leptis
achieved its greatest prominence in 193 AD when
its native son, Lucius Septimius Severus, became
Emperor. The wealth of great monuments in
Leptis Magna makes it a bit difficult to point out
highlights but the theatre is clearly one, and the
Hadrianic Baths are still impressive, with one of
the pools remaining intact.
Sabratha
In Roman times the Tripolitania province had
three cities; Leptis Magna, Oea (now the modern
Tripoli) and Sabratha. Sabratha reached its
monumental peak during the rule of the dynasty
founded by Septimus Severus, but the city was
badly damaged by earthquakes during the 4th
century; it was rebuilt on a more modest scale by
Byzantine governors. Within a hundred years of
Cyrenaica that it has retained to modern times.
Old Roman cities are fairly well represented all
over North Africa, but nowhere is there a site of
Greek ruins more impressive than Cyrene. Not
only does it have a fantastic setting overlooking
the Mediterranean, but the site is deliciously only
partly excavated. Of main interest is the Temple
of Apollo, first built as early as 7th century BC.
Around Cyrene, the Necropolis has grown to an
unbelievable size (an estimated 10 square
kilometres) and there are still hundreds of tombs
cut into the hills. Other notable archaeological
sites in the region include the Greek cities of
Ptolemais and Apollonia.
Theatre, Leptis Magna
the Arab conquests, trade had shifted to other
ports and Sabratha dwindled to a village. Today
the theatre is the main attraction and is in
excellent condition having had some restoration,
even now still being used as an arena for local
theatre and concerts. The museum is a must, and
has an extensive exhibition of everything from
statues to small coins.
Cyrenaica
Cyrene, the ancient Greek city, was the oldest
and most important of the five Greek cities in the
region and gave eastern Libya the classical name
Theatre, Sabratha
56
Ghadames
Temple of Zeus, Cyrene
Rock-Art of the Fezzan
The Fezzan is the name of the Saharan region in
southern Libya, covering approximately 700,000
square kilometres. A mixture of heavily eroded
sandstone and basalt mountains and vast sand
seas, the area was once far more fertile. From
12,000 to 4,500 years ago it was temperate with
regular rainfall and extensive flora and fauna.
During this time indigenous people progressed
from hunter-gatherers to pastoralists and this
development is charted in one of the most
remarkable and extensive collections of rock-art
and petroglyphs anywhere in the world. The Jebal
Akakus is the most famous area, a designated
UNESCO World Heritage site, although
previously untouched areas such as Wadi
Methkandoush and Msak Millet are now opening
Rock-art, Jebel Akakus
up. To be in this arid landscape surrounded by
the swirls and broken outlines of weird rock
formations and see images of elephants, giraffes,
and huge cattle being herded or hunted by
bushmen with spears and arrows is a remarkable
and strange feeling, especially when you consider
that the oldest images were created over 10,000
years ago.
Idehan Ubari
Idehan is the local word for a sand sea, and the
Ubari is a prime example of one, stretching some
300 miles from east to west. The dunes, steep
crescents stacked one on top of the other
reaching high into the deep blue sky, are full of
surprises. There are sand valleys filled with palm
trees and bushes, the tracks of desert rodents,
foxes and wolves linking the islands of green. The
biggest surprise comes when you crest a dune to
see one of the lakes that dot the area. Umm Al
Ma’ is the prettiest, a deep, narrow lake fringed
with reeds and palms, ideal for those who want
to swim in the Sahara, and don’t mind the
extremely high salt content! A night spent
camping in the Ubari promises to be a special
experience. Bathed by moon and starlight under a
cloudless sky, the silence and absence of other
people makes it a remarkably peaceful place.
Ghadames
Ghadames is an oasis in the west of Libya, 340
miles south west of Tripoli, near the borders with
Algeria and Tunisia. The old part of the town,
which is surrounded by a wall, has been declared a
World Heritage site by UNESCO. Here you'll find
a tranquil old city made of mud, lime and palm
tree trunks. A network of covered alleyways and
attached roofs allows passage from one house to
the next. In earlier days the lifeline of Ghadames
was trade through the Sahara, including slavery, but
today the people here make a living from
agriculture and the few passing tourists.
Libya
Telephone: 01869 838 435
Umm Al Ma'a Lake, Ubari Sand Sea.
57
Hebridean Cruises
58
ased aboard the luxury vessel, Hebridean
B
combine with areas further afield such as
Spirit, these cruises take in some of the
Moorish Spain. The food on board is superb and
more unusual and fascinating destinations
the service is matchless and discreet, while your
around the Mediterranean and African
accommodation is elegant and wonderfully
coastlines. Each cruise is accompanied by guest
comfortable. With such small passenger numbers
speakers who help bring these places to life
a boutique and exclusive atmosphere is assured:
whether it be through their lectures, or as
put simply a cruise with Hebridean is like
informative dining companions. We have
checking into a five-star hotel that then follows
chosen a selection of the cruise itineraries that
you on a fantastic tour of wonderful scenery,
showcase North Africa & Arabia, and also
ancient heritage and new cultures.
Theatre, Leptis Magna
Omani gentleman
Bedroom, Hebridean Spirit
HEBRIDEAN SPIRIT
Hebridean Spirit is a luxurious, small cruise ship
offering informative itineraries in the company of
expert guest speakers. Styling on-board is elegant,
with lots of dark wood and plush furnishings.
Classic touches, like wicker-backed chairs and
gramophones, recreate a golden era of travel. All
of the cabins and suites have outside views, great
importance is placed on fantastic cuisine, and
entertainment is low-key leaving plenty of time to
enjoy the surroundings and relax. There are a
variety of cruises available, the following are
samples of some of the itineraries that are in the
current schedule and are typical of the offerings
available. For up-to-date details of possible cruises,
please contact one of our North Africa & Arabia
specialists.
Petra, Jordan
Along the Incense Trail
Kingdom of the Moors
If you take the full 21-night cruise from Larnaca in
Cyprus to Dubai, you will cover many of the
great sights of Arabia as well as touching on the
legendary Horn of Africa. After traversing the
Suez Canal, a day-trip takes in the Pyramids of
Giza and other sights of Cairo. From Sharm El
Sheikh you visit St Catherine’s Monastery before
sailing for Aqaba, from where you travel to the
amazing city of Petra. After a visit to Eritrea you
sail for Oman, berthing first at Salalah to take in
the sights of Dhofar, then in Muscat where a trip
to the desert looms before touring the Omani
capital itself. Finally you visit Fujairah and Sharjah
before arriving in Dubai. By embarking or
disembarking at Sharm El Sheikh you can split this
into a five- or 16-night cruise.
It is unusual to combine the shared Moroccan
and Spanish Moorish heritage in one trip, which is
what makes this a fascinating itinerary. Beginning
with sherry tasting in what was the frontier land
between Moor and Christian, you then sail to
Morocco. After visiting the dramatically-sited,
whitewashed mountain retreat of Chefchaouen
you head back to Spain and the stunning Sierra
Nevada. Continuing to Palma you can contrast
the old Moorish town of Palma with the colonial
British style of Mahón. Back on the mainland you
conclude with a more modern yet no less
inspired architectural style, marvelling at the
creations of Gaudi in Barcelona.
Jewels of Tripolitania
Embarking in Malta, you first cruise back in history
to the Classical city of Sebratha before spending
time at her more famous sister, Leptis Magna, the
finest Roman city in existence. Sailing along the
Libyan coast you move through the ages to the
dramatic clash of Montgomery and Rommel with
visits to the cemeteries of Tobruk. Sailing on to
Egypt you visit Alexandria before traversing the
Suez Canal prior to disembarkation.
The Great Pyramid and Sphinx, Egypt
Hebridean
Mpumalanga
Cruises
& The Kruger Park
Telephone: 01993
01869 838
276 400
250
Chefchaouen, Morocco
59
New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom
Telephone: 01993 838 400 • Fax: 01993 838 010
Email: arabia@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com
W8501
All of our brochures are printed on paper produced from sustainable resources.
Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.
With special thanks to the following photographers:
Alamy Ltd; Ariadne van Zandbergen; John Carr; Copix; fotoseeker.com; istockphoto.com; Jordan Tourist Board; Chris Kober; Jamie Marshall; Michael Runkel;
Moroccan National Tourist Office; Graham Simmons; various hotels and members of the Audley North Africa & Arabia team

Audley North Africa - COVER

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