Sunglitz 07_2007.qxp - chi

After
Before
During
(U.S. Patent No. 5,224,964)
Crème Lightening System
Lightening, Brightening & Toning in a single step
INTRODUCTION
•••
Farouk Shami
“You are an Artist and hair is your canvas!”
Sunglitz is a new innovation to duplicate the Sun’s action for lightening and toning hair in
various shades and tonal values in a one step process. Adding and subtracting various
shades creates multi-dimensional effects enhancing modern hair cuts and designs.
I am honored and proud to introduce the Sunglitz Lightening System to hair artists in the
world which is one of my contributions to the professional beauty industry that we all love
and adore. Sunglitz was my first patent (U.S. Patent (NO. 5,224,964) as a hair colorist
which was followed by Silk Therapy and later by CHI Colors and CHI Tools.
Farouk Systems, that I started, is still the only company of hairdressers for hairdressers in
the professional beauty industry. I believe that you deserve a safe, faster and more artistic
system to meet the demands of today’s clients.
I am happy to share my passion and dedication of over 40 years of beauty.
Our commitment with Farouk Systems Group, Inc. has always been and will always be
• Environment
• Education
• Ethics
with Advanced American Technology.
Farouk Shami
Hair Color Artist, Chairman and Founder of Farouk Systems, Inc.
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Sunglitz Lightening System Features and Benefits
Multidimensional Highlights
• Sunglitz selectively subtracts color pigments from the hair just like the sun
• Brightens and enhances the tones
• Creates incredible multi-dimensional highlights with shine and reflection
Advanced American Technology
• 100% ammonia free formula with pleasant fragrance
• Gentle on hair and safer
• Oil base for smooth applications with silk and botanicals to condition the hair
• Triple Service: Hair can be permed and colored on the same day*
* Only with Farouk Systems Colors, Lighteners and Texture Products
Lightening and Toning in a Single Step
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1-8 levels of Lightening and predictable toning in a single step
7 pre-mixed colors or create your own customized formulas
Choose your tone from: Ash, Beige, Mocha, Golden Tones to Strawberry
For all lightening techniques (Speed Weaving Cap, Foiling, Full Head)
Oil Crème Lighteners & Toners
Brighteners & Toners
4 Easy Step for Lightening
•
•
•
•
Step
Step
Step
Step
1:
2:
3:
4:
Determine
Determine
Determine
Determine
Natural (Tinted) Level You Are Starting From
Desired Level of Lift
the Tone Desired
the Volume of Developer Needed
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Sunglitz Lightening Systems
Sunglitz Lighteners/Toners
• 7 pre-mixed ammonia free crème lighteners
• 1-8 levels of lightening and toning in single step
COOL
Ash Blonde
Blue / Green
Beige Blonde
Blue / Violet
WARM
NEUTRAL
Mocha Blonde
Neutral Blonde
Golden Blonde
Yellow/Green
Strawberry Blonde
Red/Orange
NATURAL
BLACK
Natural
Blonde
Black
NATURAL
BLACK
White
Black
Sunglitz Color Brighteners/Toners
• Creates multitude of tones and hues when painted over Sunglitz Lighteners
• To create customized lightening mixtures
• Excellent for fast tonal color corrections
COOL
Ash Blonde
Blue / Green
Beige Blonde
Blue / Violet
WARM
NEUTRAL
Mocha Blonde
Neutral Blonde
Golden Blonde
Yellow/Green
Strawberry Blonde
Red/Orange
To enhance Warm tones and to cancel Cool tones
• Use Warm Color Brighteners/Toners (Strawberry and Gold)
To enhance Cool tones and to cancel Warm tones
• Use Cool Sunglitz Color Brighteners/Toners (Ash & Beige)
Color Energy Developer
• Buffered and stabilized crème developer
• Consistent and uniform lightening results
• Fortified with silk
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Formulating
FORMULATING
There is no guesswork with complicated formulations when using Sunglitz
Lightening System because formulating is just following the Four Easy Steps.
Always strand test prior to any application/procedure.
4
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Easy Steps for Lightening
Step 1: Determine Natural (Tinted) Level You Are Starting From
Step 2: Determine Desired Level of Lift
Step 3: Determine the Tone Desired
Step 4: Determine the Volume of Developer Needed
Step1: Determine the Natural (or Tinted) Level You Are Starting From
• Consider the effects of condition, texture, porosity and previous chemical services
Step 2: Determine Desired Level of Lift
• Determine how many levels you wish to lift. From 1 up to 8 levels
Step 3: Determine the Tone Desired
• Cool: Beige or Ash
• Neutral: Mocha
• Warm: Gold or Strawberry
Remember: Sunglitz Lighteners are already pre-mixed (primary and secondary) so there is
no need to mix 2 Sunglitz Lighteners.
STEP 4:
Determine the Volume of Developer Needed
Lifting Action
Up to 1-2 levels
20 Volume
Up to 3-4 levels
30 Volume
10 & 20 vol. Color Energy
• Full head*
• Off the scalp
Up to 5-6 levels
40 Volume
10 Volume
Developer Volume
Up to 7-8 levels
* 1/8 inch away
30 & 40 vol. Color Energy
• Only off the scalp
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Sunglitz Lightening Systems
Timing with Sunglitz Lighteners
For relaxed, chemically straightened, permed and overly processed
hair, see page 14
1-2 Levels
Color Energy
Timing with low heat
10 vol.
To Lift
Timing without heat
No heat needed
1-5 min.
Up to 5 min at room temp
3-4 Levels
20 vol.
10 min.
30 min.
15 min.
Up to 10 min under low heat +
Up to 15 min at room temp
Up to 30 min at room temp
5-6 Levels
30 vol.
15 min.
40 min.
20 min.
Up to 15 min under low heat +
Up to 20 min at room temp
20 min.
40 vol.
7-8 Levels
Up to 40 min at room temp
50 min.
30 min.
Up to 20 min under low heat +
Up to 30 min at room temp
Processing time is always approximate and will vary depending
on texture, condition, porosity and amount of low heat applied. Use
your professional judgment.
• Process under a low heat dryer or at room
temperature. Never on hot temperature.
Up to 50 min at room temp
Timing with Low Heat or at Room Temperature
Low heat
Normal
• Check constantly the amount of lift and condition of
the hair by using water
• Spray product completely off the hair strand and
towel dry.
• Check hair every 2-3 minutes until desired results
are achieved.
• When processing under a low heat dryer, always
allow the hair to cool for at least 5 minutes prior to
rinsing. This will allow the cuticle to contract.
Room Temperature
Porous
Coarse
Fine
Resistant
When achieving
reddish tones
Lifting on darker levels/ Lifting on lighter levels /
Lifting more than 3 levels Lifting less than 2-3 levels
Tinted
(requires longer
processing time)
• Tinted/colored hair can take 1-10 minutes longer to
process depending on hair color level.
Do not use heat on relaxed hair (see pg. 14)
• Relaxed hair can be processed in 1- 3 minutes
Relaxed, permed or
chemically straightened
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Tones
Recommendation
Chart
COOL
NEUTRAL
WARM
Hair Level
Ash Blonde
Beige Blonde
Mocha Blonde
Golden Blonde
Strawberry Blonde
9:
Light
Blonde
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10 vol.
10 vol.
10 vol.
10 vol.
10 vol.
8:
Medium
Blonde
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
7:
Dark
Blonde
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
10 & 20 vol.
6:
Light
Brown
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10, 20 & 30 vol.
10, 20 & 30 vol.
10, 20 & 30 vol.
10, 20 & 30 vol.
10, 20 & 30 vol.
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
Use
Ash Blonde
Use
Beige Blonde
Use
Mocha Blonde
Use
Golden Blonde
Use
Strawberry Blonde
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
10, 20, 30 & 40 vol.
5:
Medium
Brown
4:
Dark
Brown
3:
Darkest
Brown
2:
Natural
Black
1:
Black
Remember to use Color Brighteners/Toners
Custom Mixing: With Sunglitz Natural Blonde Lightener and Color Brighteners/Toners (1:1:1/2)
1 part
Natural Sunglitz
Lightener
+
1 part
Color
Energy
+
1/4 part
Desired Color
Brightener/Toner
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Techniques
Speed Weaving Cap Technique
1. Apply few drops of Sunglitz Repair & Shine
into the hair and leave in.
Brush the hair into direction you wish to
style the hair.
(Mixing 1:1) (1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 1 part Color Energy Developer)
2. Place Sunglitz Speed Weaving Cap on the head by first
placing your left hand on the fore head and by using
your right hand pull the cap snugly to the nape area.
Open the wings from your speed weaving cap and tie
a knot under the chin.
3. Start to pull highlights with Sunglitz
Weaving hook from the nape area and
work your way up
4. Start the application from the darkest part of the hair,
usually nape area.
5. Paint the desired Color Brighteners/Toners
over your application. Push it with a
Sunglitz Artist Fan Brush to penetrate
through the Lightener into hair.
6. Wipe a strand clean to check the
progress every 3-5 minutes.
Wearing gloves, apply Lightener generously
to the hair to be lightened using 1/8 “ sub
sections. Make sure all strands are covered.
Start the timing when the application is
completed.
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Types
Foiling Technique
Mixing 1:11/2 (1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 11/2 part Color Energy Developer)
Before
1.
4.
After
Painting Technique
Before
2.
3.
Mixing 1:1 (1 part Sunglitz Lightener + 1 part Color Energy Developer)
1.
2.
3.
After
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Techniques
Full Head Application Short Hair
Mixing 1:11/2 (1part Sunglitz Lightener + 11/2 part Color Energy Developer)
1/8 of an inch away from the scalp
1. Divide the hair in four quadrants.
2. Start the application from the darkest part of the hair, usually the nape area.
Wearing gloves, apply the Sunglitz Crème Lightener mixture to the
midshaft and ends first, starting ½ inch away from the root using
1/8 inch subsections.
3. Paint the desired Color Brighteners/
Toner over your application.
After
4. Lift the hair to allow air circulation and even oxidation.
Start the timing when the application is completed.
Wipe a strand clean to check the progress every 3-5 minutes.
Full Head Application on Long and Mid-Length Hair (1/8 of an inch away from the scalp using 10 & 20 vol.)
1. Apply Sunglitz Crème Lightening mixture to the midshaft and ends first, starting 1/2 inch away from the
root using 1/8 inch subsections.
2. Time for 15 minutes or until you see a definite color change.
3. Mix a fresh batch of Sunglitz formula. Apply it to the root area and over the mid lengths and ends again.
Work the formula through to be sure all strands are covered.
Stay 1/8” away from the scalp at all times.
Re-touch Applications
1. Start application from the darkest part of the hair, usually the nape area.
2. Wearing gloves, apply Sunglitz Lightener mixture only to the new growth area. Avoid overlapping.
Rinsing Sunglitz Lighteners
Rinsing
1. Rinse thoroughly with warm water
2. Note: If using a Speed Weaving Cap, apply generous amount of Sunglitz
Repair & Shine to the hair prior to removing the cap and rinsing.
3. Shampoo with appropriate Sunglitz Shampoo
4. Rinse and Gently towel dry the hair
5. Apply Sunglitz Natural SunSealer for 5 minutes
6. Rinse and towel dry
7. Apply a few drops of Repair & Shine and leave in
8. Style & recommend Home Maintenance Products
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Sunglitz on Permed, Chemically Staightened,
Relaxed & Overly Processed Hair
Sunglitz on Relaxed, Chemically Straightened, Overly Pressed and Permed Hair
Sunglitz Crème Lighteners are ideal to lighten relaxed, straightened, overly processed
and permed hair.
When following the instructions they will provide excellent results.
Relaxed, straightened, permed and overly processed hair always requires a
preliminary strand test prior to application!
When doing service, always consider the following:
• Previous chemical services, Condition, Porosity and Elasticity
Hair that has been
• Permed, Chemically straightened (thio based products), Relaxed (sodium/calcium
hydroxide based products) and/or Overly Processed hair have become more
porous than unprocessed hair and requires a pH Balancing Service (lowering the
pH of the hair prior to application)
pH Balancing Service
• Shampoo the hair with Sunglitz Natural Enhancement Shampoo and rinse
• Towel dry the hair!
• Apply Generous amount of Sunglitz Moisture & Shine
Intense Conditioner and leave it on for 5 minutes
• Rinse and towel dry the hair
• Apply Sunglitz Sunsealer Daily Conditioner for 5 minutes and rinse
• Apply generous amount of Sunglitz Repair & Shine and leave in
• Place the hair under a dryer or blow dry it
Only use 10 & 20 vol. when working on...
• Permed Chemically straightened (thio based products)
• Relaxed (sodium/calcium hydroxide based products)
• Overly Processed
Timing with Sunglitz Crème Lighteners on Relaxed,
Straightened, Overly Processed and Permed hair
To Lift
Color Energy
Timing at Room Temperature
1-2 Levels
1-5 min.
10 volume
Mixing Ratio 1:11/2
(Mix 1 part
Sunglitz Lightener
+ 11/2 parts Color
Energy Developer
Up to 1-5 min at room temp
3-4 Levels
5-10
min.
Up to 5-10 min at room temp
20 volume
DO NOT USE HEAT ON RELAXED HAIR!
• Relaxed hair can process in 1-3 minutes.
• Check the amount of lift and condition constantly
• Using water, spray product completely off the hair strand and towel dry
• Tinted/colored hair takes 1-10 minutes longer to process
Processing time is always approximate and will vary depending on
texture, condition and porosity. Use your professional judgment.
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SunGlaze Service
SunGlaze Service
Enhance, refresh or brighten any hair color (natural or tinted)
To enhance Warm tones and to neutralize Cool tones
• Use Warm Sunglitz Lighteners (Strawberry and Gold)
To enhance Cool tones and to neutralize Warm tones
• Use Cool Sunglitz Lighteners (Ash & Beige)
To neutralize unwanted tones
• Determine the tone you wish to cancel and choose the opposite Sunglitz
Lightener of the color you wish to cancel.
• Remember: Sunglitz Lighteners are already pre-mixed (primary and secondary) so
in most cases there is no need to intermix them.
To remove product build up
• Use Sunglitz Natural Blonde Cream Lightener
SunGlaze Mixing, Application and Timing
SunGlaze Mixture (1:1:1)
Mix in a clean plastic bowl
1 part desired
Sunglitz Lightener*
1 part 10 vol.**
Color Energy
1 part
Color Brightener/Toner
Application
• Rinse the hair with warm water
• Shampoo the hair with your SunGlaze mixture
• Do not apply your mixture directly to the scalp
Timing
• 1 minute to 5 minutes
• Constantly check the results
• Note: Processing is always faster on lighter hair than on darker hair
• When desired effect is achieved: rinse, shampoo, towel dry and condition.
• If desired results are not achieved, rinse and after successful strand test reapply.
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Hair Color Removal
Hair Color Removal
Removing Color with Cool Blonde Sunglitz Cream Lightener
Cool Blonde Sunglitz Cream Lightener is an ideal product to remove old colors
from the hair. It’s black color removes all color tones collectively from the hair. In all
cases strand test the hair prior to application.
Preparations
• Determine client’s darkest tinted level(s) and tone(s) and previous chemical services.
• Determine the condition and porosity of the hair.
• Determine all previous color services and the quantity and the types of color
service(s). (Semi, Demi, Permanent, High Lift Color, Direct Dyes)
• If hair has been relaxed or colored with coating colors, metallic dyes, henna or any
type of color service that you can not identify, do not perform the service.
• Determine desired level of lift and tonal value.
Hair Color Removal Mixing: (1: 1 ½)
+
1 part Cool Blonde
Sunglitz Lightener*
1 ½ Parts
Color Energy
1. Start the application from the darkest area where you have most of the color build up.
2. Wearing gloves, apply Lightener generously surrounding the hair to be
lightened using 1/8 “ sub-sections. Make sure all strands are covered.
Stay 1/8” away from the scalp all the time.
3. Constantly check the progress (1- 5 minutes) by wiping a strand clean
Timing
• See the page 7
Note: If desired results are not achieved, rinse and after successful strand test reapply.
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Maintenance
Home Maintenance
Proper homecare products are an essential part of maintaining the condition, clarity
and shine of your Sunglitz highlights. They are ideal for both professional use and
home maintenance. As professional hair color artists, always recommend correct
Farouk Systems homecare products.
Sunglitz Color Enhancing Shampoos –pH 5,9 - 6.7
• Specifically formulated for highlighted and colored hair with gentle cleansing action
• Maintains and protects hair color service between salon visits
• Removes any mineral build up from the hair
• Enhances tones and shine
• Conditioning agents will strengthen the hair and maintain proper moisture balance
• Fortified with natural silk leaving the hair tangle free
Ash Blonde
Shampoo
Ideal for:
Cool blondes
Cool browns
Neutralizes
red/orange tones
Beige Blonde
Shampoo
Ideal for:
Cool blondes
Neutralizes
yellow tones
Golden Blonde
Shampoo
Ideal for:
Warm blondes/browns
Enhances sun kissed tones
Neutralizes cool tones
Mocha Blonde
Shampoo
Ideal for:
All browns/blondes
Enhances chocolate
and caramel tones
Sunglitz Natural SunSealer Daily Conditioner- pH 2.5 - 3.5
• Locks in moisture balance
• Increases resilience
• Contains blends of natural herbs and vinegar to seal
and tighten the cuticle layer
• Excellent detangler
• Leaves the hair incredibly soft and shiny
Sunglitz Moisture & Shine – Intense Conditioner - pH 2.8 - 3.5
• Daily conditioner to reconstruct and restore moisture
• Contains silk protein fibers to link hair fibers together
• Improves both the strength and the elasticity of the hair
• Adds thickness, body and volume without adding any weight
Sunglitz Repair & Shine – Silk Leave-In Treatment - no pH
• Repairs damaged hair, split ends, and eliminates frizz
• Restores silky suppleness to dull or dry hair
• Eliminates static flyaway without any added weight
• Produces an instant shine and magnificent reflection
• Provides protection against environmental stress (UV)
Strawberry Blonde
Shampoo
Ideal for:
Blonde, brown &
red hair
Enhances rich warm
red tones
Neutralizes cool tones
Natural
Enhancement
Shampoo
Ideal for:
all tones
Sunglitz Natural SunSealer Daily Conditioner
Sunglitz Moisture & Shine Intense Conditioner
Sunglitz Repair & Shine Silk Leave-In Treatment
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Info
Standard tests
Preliminary test
Even if your client has been lightening their hair for some time, sometimes allergies can suddenly develop or worsen. In
some cases, the allergic reaction can be serious.
In order to be safe, an allergy test must be performed 48 hours prior to each and every application, due to the fact that
some people are allergic to hair color products.
1. Wash a small area on the inside of your clients forearm with soap and water. Pat dry with absorbent cotton.
2. Mix 1 part of desired lightener (or mixture of lighteners) with equal part of appropriate Color Energy.
3. Apply formula to the inside of forearm using cotton swab and let it dry.
4. Do not wash, do not cover or disturb for 48 hours.
5. Examine test area periodically over 48 hours. If no reaction occurred, proceed with hair lightening.
6. IMPORTANT: (a) DO NOT USE lighteners if any of these warning signs appear at or around the test area or any place
the product has come into contact with the skin at any time up to a few days after application: redness, burning, itching,
swelling, skin abrasions, eruptions or irritations. (b) IMMEDIATE REACTIONS: if any reactions occur (including breathing
problems, tightening of the chest, heart palpitations, lightheadedness, itching, flushing, bumps or swelling) away from
the place the product has come into contact with the skin, during or shortly after application of the allergy test or while
using the product, rinse immediately with lukewarm water. Discontinue use and obtain medical attention immediately.
Alert the client not to use this or any other hair color product again until after consulting a physician.
Cautions
• Please read the Sunglitz manual thoroughly and attend a Sunglitz class before attempting to use Sunglitz System.
• Sunglitz System is only for Licensed Cosmetologist.
• Do not use if scalp is irritated, abraded or injured in any way.
• Do not use if the hair shows any sign of breakage or damage.
• Do not use 30 and 40 vol. Color Energy for full head applications, relaxed, chemically straightened, permed
or overly processed hair.
• Do not apply the product against the scalp. Stay 1/8’ away from the scalp at all the times.
• Do not use Sunglitz Lighteners if the hair has been colored previously with coating colors, metallic dyes, henna or any
type of hair color that you cannot identify.
• Do not over lap over previously lightened hair.
• If necessary, use only low heat, never hot, and always allow the hair to cool down at least 5 min. prior to rinsing.
ALWAYS STRAND TEST PRIOR TO ANY APPLICATION.
1. Mix the desired Sunglitz Lightener formula.
2. Apply from the roots to ends on a strand large enough to view results.
3. Time it following the instructions, rinse hair thoroughly and dry.
4. Analyze the results:
• If the strand test shows any breakage or any other signs of damage, do not use the products until the hair has been
reconstructed and re-tested.
• Always follow the formulation charts, timing & mixing for predictable results.
• Analyze scalp, hair structure and influencing factors.
• Always use your professional judgment.
• Do not use on eyelashes or eyebrows. Doing so may cause blindness.
• If product or mixture accidentally gets into eyes, rinse promptly and repeatedly with cool water and seek medical attention.
• If client wears contact lenses, they should remove before rinsing with water.
• Do not apply to children. Keep all hair color products out of reach of children. Protective gloves must be worn all the time
when opening, mixing, closing or handling in anyway Sunglitz Lighteners and Color Energy.
Questions? Call the Farouk Systems, Inc Hotline:
Tel: 1- 800-237- 9175
Monday - Friday: 8.00 AM - 6.00 PM (Central Standard Time)
Saturday - 9.00 AM - 6.00 PM (Central Standard Time)
www.farouk.com For more information refer to the Sunglitz manual and DVD
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Before
During
After
Yellow / Green
Tertiary
Yellow
Primary
n
lde
Go
Blo
e
nd
Orange / Yellow
Tertiary
Green
Secondary
Mocha
Orange
Secondary
Blue / Green
Tertiary
Red / Orange
Tertiary
Strawberry Blonde
Ash Blonde
Blue
Primary
Violet
Secondary
Red / Violet
Tertiary
Bei
ge
Blo
nde
Red
Tertiary
Blue / Violet
Tertiary
for more information contact your Farouk Systems Distributor or call 1-800-237-9175
© 2007 Farouk Systems, Inc • Houston, TX 77090 •
Visit our website at www.farouk.com