Rhode Island - The Beverage Journal

Transcription

Rhode Island’s only trade magazine and comprehensive online resource
for the local licensed beer, wine and spirits industry.
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Brand & Price Index
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MARCH2016
FEATURES
16
Beer Here
Local winter festivals brought out the brands and their fans.
18
Local Chatter
Community-centric restaurateurs share the secrets
of their success.
16
22
Social IQ
On Premise Advice looks to social media for
direct marketing.
24
Retail Review
Allen’s Wine and Spirits celebrates 25 years in serving
the Portsmouth-area.
28
Green Shoots on the Emerald Isle
Irish Whiskey is experiencing a wave of new distilleries.
18
24
28
March 2016 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3
MARCH2016
36
The Case for Vino Nobile
New reasons to rediscover Montepulciano’s noble wine.
42
36
Why Négociants Still Matter
Applying savoir-faire to regional French wines, ‘middlemen’
bring value to the U.S. market.
46
On Call with Jameson
Irish whiskey keeps getting reinvented at Chicago’s
Barrelman Tavern.
48
New Products & Promotions
42
The month’s review of newly released flavors, tastes
and brands.
48
46
DEPARTMENTS
5 Market Point
6 News Front
10 Around Town
LIQUOR BRAND INDEX
WINE BRAND INDEX
BEER BRAND INDEX
In the Price List section this month:
261a
262a
263a
264a
20 Wine Buzz
25 Serving Up
26 Association News
JOURNAL CLASSIFIED
SHOPPING NETWORK
Page 1a
THE INDEX
Wine FAQ’s
By the Numbers
Beer Column
Crossword
HOW B
E E R, W
INE
AN D S
PI R ITS
G ET TO
MAR KE TH E
TPLAC
E
The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information.
4 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2016
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
RHODE ISLAND
BE VER AGE JOURNAL
VOLUME
80
No 03
{ ISSN
MARCH
2016
0035-4652 }
March offers an avalanche of local news and market
information. It’s another great month to explore the issue
cover to cover.
PUBLISHER
GERALD P. SLONE
gerry@thebeveragejournal.com
°
St. Patrick's Day takes the holiday focus this month with the cover story about
the explosion of distilleries on the Emerald Isle. With that in mind, go “On Call"
with Jameson, beloved leader of the Irish whiskey pack and check out “poitin,"
a variation on Irish whiskey, and other new products.
°
Montepulciano gets a turn in the wine spotlight, and we offer a retail-focused
piece on contemporary negociant wines.
°
New Products & Promotions and Wine Buzz offer a pot full of gold: product
ideas to keep you in the green.
°
Beer festivals warmed up the winter, showcasing many brands for eager crowds.
°
In the local focus: We talk to the Gregg’s team of restaurateurs, recently
recognized for their community service.
°
Meritage in East Greenwich offers our monthly “Serving Up” cocktail recipe,
while Allen’s Wine and Spirits gets the “Retail Review” treatment.
°
We like to keep things easy for you with the resources we offer; it’s our mission
and our purpose. Need a demo on how to use the magazine and the directto-wholesaler shopping website? We offer all the tools you need to keep your
business running smoothly, and they are all included in your subscription or
price listing. Call us.
E D I T O R & A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R
DANA SLONE
dana@thebeveragejournal.com
DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALER SERVICES
LAURIE BUICK
laurie@thebeveragejournal.com
S U B S C R I P T I O N / R E TA I L S E R V I C E S
BRIAN SLONE
brian@thebeveragejournal.com
DESIGN
EVAN FRASER
evan@thebeveragejournal.com
E D I T O R I A L A D M I N I S T R AT O R
SAVANNAH MUL
savannah@thebeveragejournal.com
WRITER
LAUREN DALEY
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Published Monthly By: The Rhode Island Beverage
Journal; 2508 Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden,
CT 06518 is devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees.
Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written
permission from the publisher. This includes articles,
pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not
responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims.
The opinions expressed here are that of the individual
authors and not necessarily the views of The Rhode
Island Beverage Journal. We reserve the right to reject
any material that is flawed due to content or design.
All advertisements and price list advertising are subject
to the approval of The Beverage Journal which reserves
the right to edit, reject or properly classify.
Periodicals postage paid at New Haven, CT.
Postmaster: Send address changes to:
CT Beverage Journal, P.O. Box 185159, Hamden CT 06518
DO NOT FORWARD.
ON THE
COV E R
A sunny outlook from Southeast Tuscany.
National Coverage, Local Advantage
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tel 212.571.3232 fax 212.571.4443
www.bevnetwork.com
N EWSF R ONT
TREASURY WINE ESTATES ADDS CHATEAU
MINUT Y TO PORTFOLIO
Treasury Wine Estates is the exclusive U.S.
importer of Château Minuty, a Côtes de Provence
rosé producer. “While the rosé category is
currently experiencing explosive growth and
popularity, Château Minuty has been around
since 1936 and is now under the careful direction
of third-generation winemakers, Jean-Etienne and
François Matton,” said Sandra LeDrew, President of Treasury
Wine Estates. “We are very excited to work with the family and
to represent this prestigious and pioneering brand.”
CONSTELL ATION BR ANDS BUILDS BREWERY TO
KEEP UP WITH DEMAND
Constellation Brands has
released details regarding
the
construction
of
a new brewery to be built in Mexicali, Mexico, located near
California, one of Constellation’s largest beer markets.
The brewery is expected to provide 10 million hectoliters of
production, with the first 5 hectoliters to be completed by 2019.
The company is also expanding their Nava Brewery in Mexico,
which currently holds 10 million hectoliters, to a 25-millionhectoliter capacity by year end 2018.
JACK DANIEL’S DISTILLERY CELEBR ATES
150 YEARS
Jack Daniel’s will celebrate its 150th
anniversary of the distillery in Lynchburg,
Tennessee, both at its historic location
and around the world, in 2016.
Commemorative 150th anniversary bottles, a global barrel
scavenger hunt, a global master distiller for a day contest,
renovations to, and new facilities for, the Jack Daniel Distillery,
as well as a celebration event in Lynchburg set for October
are among the events and promotions planned to celebrate
the legacy.
COGNAC POSTS OVER ALL GLOBAL GROW TH
IN 2015
The Cognac Board (BNIC) has announced
record growth in 2015, due to exports
reaching an historic high in terms of
volume and value. The Cognac Board sites
performance growth in North America,
where the industry and consumer demand
continues to increase. The board reports a 13 percent growth
in volume and a 39.2 percent growth in value, with about 67.7
million bottles being shipped in 2015; 65.3 million of those
bottles were exported to the United States.
SANTA MARGHERITA EXCLUSIVELY IMPORTED
BY SANTA MARGHERITA USA
Santa Margherita USA, Inc. is now
the exclusive importer of the Santa
Margherita wine brand in the U.S.
Santa Margherita’s wine portfolio
includes Pinot Grigio Alto Adige and Valdadige, Chianti
Classico Riserva and Prosecco Superiore. “As we move into a
new year with an iconic brand at the forefront of our portfolio,
our family is excited to share another aspect of the Santa
Margherita story, deeply rooted in history, that until now has
not yet been told,” said Gaetano Marzotto, Chairman of the
Board for the Santa Margherita Wine Group.
SILICON VALLEY BANK PREDICTS DECLINE IN
WINE CONSUMPTION
Silicon Valley Bank released its
Annual State of the Wine Industry
Report in January, which combines
Silicon Valley Bank’s experience in
the U.S. wine business along with
research to forecast predictions. The Silicon Valley Bank offers
financial services and advice to more than 300 vineyards and
wineries on the West Coast. The report predicts that fine wine
sales will end 2016 with growth between 9-13 percent, a slight
decline from about 14 percent sales growth in 2015.
DISTILLED SPIRITS COUNCIL REPORTS STEADY
GROW TH IN 2015
The Distilled Spirits Council of the
United States (DISCUS) reported
another year of steady growth in 2015 with
supplier sales up 4.1 percent and volumes
up 2.3 percent. DISCUS reported strong
growth in every whiskey category for
the second year with revenues rising 8 percent. Tequila grew
by 9.4 percent in sales and Cognac grew 16.2 percent. Other
highlights included the U.S. market reaching $72 billion in
sales, which supports about 1.4 million jobs in the hospitality
industry. American whiskeys led export growth, increasing 4
percent due to consumer interest, while overall spirit exports
grew 3.4 percent.
N EWSF R ONT
DIAGEO PROVIDES NUTRITIONAL
INFORMATION ON PRODUCTS
PASTERNAK WINE IMPORTS AND THOMAS
GEORGE ESTATES ANNOUNCE PARTNERSHIP
Diageo is working with the newly
revised website, DRINKiQ.com, to
give consumers more information
about nutrition, calorie and alcohol content for all of their
brands. DRINKiQ.com includes a breakdown of calories,
carbohydrates and protein, as well as saturated fat, sugar,
caffeine and sodium content. Consumers are also able to use
a Drinks Calculator to determine how many calories they are
drinking per serving, along with tips to promote responsible
drinking. Diageo launched the responsible drinking website
in 2008.
Pasternak Wine Imports will oversee
the distribution and marketing of
Thomas George Estates, a Russian
River Valley based winery. The Thomas
George Estates portfolio consists of two
independent brands, Thomas George
Estate wines, dedicated to the estate-grown Pinot Noir and the
Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley AVA, as well as the
Noble Tree wines made from estate-grown Sonoma County
grapes. Thomas George Estates offers a range of single vineyard
wines including Baker Ridge, Cresta Ridge, Starr Ridge and
Sons & Daughters Ranch, but they also vinify by individual
lot-specific sites.
WHISK Y EXPERTS NAME BEST CANADIAN
WHISK Y OF 2015
A panel of 10 independent
whisky experts has named Lot
No. 40 the Canadian Whisky
of the Year at the sixth annual
Canadian
Whisky
Awards.
The whisky is distilled in
Windsor, Ontario. Davin de
Kergommeaux, Chairman of the
Judges, said Lot No. 40 is, “a rye
whisky sensation. Interest in rye is surging globally and here is
proof that Canada makes the best all-rye whiskies in the world.”
Other top whisky winners included Canadian Club 100% Rye,
Gooderham & Worts, Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye,
Crown Royal Hand Selected Barrel and Masterson’s 10-YearOld Rye. Dr. Don Livermore of Corby Distillers (center) accepts
the award from Kergommeaux (left) and whiskey author Dave
Broom (right).
BROWN - FORMAN WILL SELL T WO SPIRIT
BR ANDS TO SAZER AC
CANADA’S OLDEST BREW L AUNCHES IN THE
UNITED STATES
Terlato Wines announced a long-term agreement
to be the exclusive marketing agent for Riondo
Spago Nero Prosecco, an authentic DOC prosecco
from the Veneto region. Terlato will feature the
signature Spago Nero Prosessco DOC and import
single-serve 187 ml bottles, as well as the 750
ml bottles with Riondo’s signature string close.
“Riondo already holds a strong position in the U.S. with a
6 percent market share, which places it in Nielsen’s Top Five
for Prosecco sales volume for the past four years. With overall
Prosecco sales at 3.5 million cases in 2014 and growing, we have
confidence that there is major untapped growth potential for
Riondo Prosecco in the U.S.,” said William A. Terlato, CEO of
Terlato Wines.
Moosehead, Canada’s oldest independent
brewery, will launch its Moosehead Radler, which
is a combination of grapefruit, grape and lemon,
in the U.S. this spring. The beer will launch in
March 2016 and will be imported by United
States Beverage of Stamford, Connecticut.
“Moosehead is a brand that has a loyal following. As we look
to grow the brand in the U.S., we want to introduce styles that
help expand our existing consumer base, and Radler is the
brand to do that,” said Andrew Oland, CEO of Moosehead
Breweries Limited.
Brown-Forman Corporation will
sell its Southern Comfort and
Tuaca brand trademarks to Sazerac
for $543.5 million. The decision to
sell the brands is based on the company’s evolving portfolio
strategy. Brown-Forman has marketed Southern Comfort since
1979, when they acquired the brand, and Tuaca since 2002.
“We are very excited about the opportunity to acquire such
iconic brands. Brown-Forman has done an excellent job of
building both brands over the years and we are looking forward
to many more years of successful brand building,” said Mark
Brown, President and CEO of the Sazerac Company. The sale
is expected to close March 2016.
TERL ATO WINES ADDS LUXURY PROSECCO TO
WINE PORTFOLIO
NEW WINES
from
DELICATO FAMILY VINEYARDS
AND ZAC BROWN
N or t h Coa st a nd Rus sian Rive r Valle y
Zac Brown, proprietor
John Killebrew, winemaker
Available Now at MS Walker
For orders Please Contact your Sales Representative or 401.247.0646
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
NORTH COAST
PINOT NOIR
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
©2016 Z. ALEXANDER BROWN WINES, NAPA, CA 94558 ALCOHOL 13.5 –14.5% BY VOLUME
PROPRIETARY RED BLEND
NORTH COAST
A RO U N DTOW N
M.S. WALKER RECEIVES SALES ACCOLADES
FROM JORDAN WINERY
Three M.S. Walker executives were inducted into Jordan
Winery’s “Ruby Jacket Society” in January 2016. Brett Allen,
General Manager, Michael Lester, On-Premise Manager,
and Douglas Shaw, Senior Vice President, received the
recognition for their excellence in sales leadership and
brand stewardship during 2015. Shaw and Lester traveled
to the Healdsburg, California estate of Jordan Vineyards &
Winery for the ceremony on January 21, 2016.
1
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Photos by Drew Ross.
1. Brett Allen, General Manager, M.S. Walker of Rhode Island.
2. Taken in the Jordan Winery oak tank room on January 21,
2016. John Jordan, CEO, Jordan Winery; Michael Lester,
On-Premise Manager, M.S. Walker of Rhode Island; Ashley
Cesario, Eastern U.S. Regional Sales Director, Jordan Winery;
and Douglas Shaw, Senior Vice President, M.S. Walker.
BILLY’S RESTAURANT RECEIVES ACCOLADES
FROM OPENTABLE
Billy’s Restaurant has been named the “Best Restaurant
in Boston/New England” from OpenTable’s diners’ choice
list. Located on Maple Avenue in Barrington, this American
bistro and tavern was the only Rhode Island restaurant to
make the list, and is a top-ten diners’ choice winner. “We
are so honored that our diners took the time to give us
such great reviews on OpenTable,” said Bill Dessel, Owner,
Billy’s. “I’m very proud of the team at Billy’s who strive to
provide our guests the highest-quality dining experience
possible in a warm, inviting and unpretentious setting.”
Billy’s Restaurant is currently rated 4.7 out of five stars with
a 100 percent rating of diners recommending this place to
friends. OpenTable also rates Billy’s as “loved for” Overall
Restaurant, Neighborhood Gem, Service and Contemporary
American for Boston/New England/Rhode Island.
Owner Bill Dessel at Billy’s in Barrington. Dessel is also co-founder
of KEEL Vodka.
SONS OF LIBERTY SPIRITS AND J. RIEGER & CO.
WAGER WHISKEY
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Sons of Liberty Spirits of Rhode Island and J. Rieger & Co.
of Kansas City made a whiskey wager to send their finest
whiskey to each other based on which team won the AFC
Divisional playoff game between the New England Patriots
and the Kansas City Chiefs on January 16, 2016. The New
England Patriots won the game, and J. Rieger & Co. sent a
case of their finest whiskey to the staff at Sons of Liberty
Spirits. If the Patriots had lost, Sons of Liberty would have
sent a case of their whiskey to J. Rieger & Co. The two spirit
companies communicated during the game through social
media using #NFLWhiskeyWars.
1. Bryan Ricard of Sons of Liberty toasts with J. Rieger.
2. J. Rieger & Co.’s line up.
A RO U N DTOW N
NEWPORT DISTILLING COMPANY RELEASES
NEW RUM
Newport Distilling Company, makers of Thomas Tew
Single Barrel Rum, released the newest addition to their
portfolio – Widows Walk. This white rum is crafted in a
single pot still and “has a buttery nose up front followed
by a grassy cane flavor and finishing with dark molasses
notes.” At 67.5% ABV, Master Distiller Brent Ryan said,
“There are lots of distillers making flavored rums and lower
proof white rums, an over-proof white rum is a unique
expression that is focused on our meticulous process and
the spirit itself.” Widows Walk is packaged in a 1-liter bottle
and is distributed by Horizon Beverage Company, Origin
Division in Rhode Island.
AVVIO RISTORANTE JOINS NEWPORT
RESTAURANT GROUP
Avvio Ristorante is the latest restaurant to join the Newport
Restaurant Group. Avvio, an Italian eatery slated to open
in spring 2016, will occupy the former Papa Razzi space in
Garden City, Cranston. Chef Greg Coccio, former Executive
Chef at Papa Razzi, will remain in his role at Avvio, along
with Chef Kevin DiLibero, Director of Culinary Arts, Newport
Restaurant Group. Avvio’s menu will feature classic Italian
dishes, Neapolitan pizzas and wood-fired grill offerings.
“When Newport Harbor Corporation purchased seven
Papa Razzi restaurants in 2012, it gave us the opportunity to
grow our footprint into Massachusetts,” said Paul O’Reilly,
CEO and President of Newport Harbor Corporation. “The
Cranston location has been successful, but with the growth
and expansion of Garden City, we saw an opportunity to
refresh the space and enhance its offerings to align with
Newport Restaurant Group’s culinary philosophy. These
changes will allow us to add Avvio to the portfolio and
to provide guests in the West Bay and statewide the
experience they have come to expect from our restaurants.”
CAROLYN’S SAKONNET WINES POURS AT
SUN WINEFEST
Carolyn's Sakonnet Vineyard staff poured at the 13th
Annual Sun WineFest at the Mohegan Sun Casino in
Uncasville, Connecticut the weekend of January 29,
2016. The three-day event attracts thousands of wine
and food lovers from around the region. The vineyard
showcased a selection of its award-winning wines: Estate
Blessed Blend Red, Estate Rhode Island Red, The Blessed
Blend White, and SIREN wine, made of 100-percent Vidal
Blanc grapes.
Rachel Brooks, Senior Events Coordinator and Jessica Walsh,
Social Media and Marketing Coordinator of Carolyn’s Sakonnet
Vineyard of Little Compton, Rhode Island.
A RO U N DTOW N
USBG RI HOSTS MOUNT GAY RUM BRAND
AMBASSADOR
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Photos by Chris Almeida.
Twin River VIP 100 Club was the site for the United States
Bartenders Guild Rhode Island (USBG RI) Chapter meeting,
where a brand education session with Mount Gay Rum's
National Brand Ambassador, Scott Fitzgerald, took place.
Fitzgerald presented a tasting of the Mount Gay Rum line
along with the company’s history, which began in 1703 in
Barbados, making it the world’s oldest rum producer. The
session was part of the chapter’s monthly gathering held
on January 19, 2016. The USBG RI board members also
discussed meetings with chapter members after the session.
1. Mount Gay Rum. Chapter members tasted different varieties
of the rum, learned about the characteristics of each, and
the distilling process.
2. Mount Gay Rum's National Brand Ambassador, Scott
Fitzgerald.
3. Laura Kanzler, Origin Beverage; Ben Terry, New Harvest;
Patrick Cull, USBG RI Treasurer; Alex Thibault, Brand
Activation Manager, Mount Gay; Scott Fitzgerald, Mount
Gay Rum's National Brand Ambassador; Katie Masterson,
Boom Box/Magdalena Room; Ian Magiros, On-Premise Key
Account Specialist, M.S. Walker; Frank Martucci, Director of
Beverage Operations, Twin River Casino; Joaquin Meza, El
Rancho Grande; Jonathan Pogash; Anthony Guaetta, Twin
River Bartender; Liz Sawtelle, Secretary, USBG RI.
MARCHESI DI BAROLO MANAGER VISITS RHODE
ISLAND
During a recent visit to the United States, Anna Abbona,
the owner and export market manager for Marchesi di
Barola, Italy, spent time with the M.S. Walker sales team to
promote the portfolio in Rhode Island. Based in Alba, the
Abbona family is the fifth-generation owner of the Marchesi
di Barolo wine estate. Over two centuries ago, the Marquis
of Barolo created the wine making style that established
the Barolo region.
M.S. Walker Sales Team, except where indicated: Brett Allen; Ian
Magiros; Michael Lester; Owen Thorpe; Bryan Hoffman; Anna
Abbona, Owner and Export Manager Manager, Marchesi di
Barola; Nat Saywell; Steve Brodd; Matt Supinski; David Montoya;
Alan Babb; Christine Langford; Marc Guillotte; Michael Bianco;
Sid Lahkhar; Jamie Matos; and Ryan Lavoie.
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A RO U N DTOW N
ALPHA DISTRIBUTING GETS IN THE IRISH SPIRIT
FOR MARCH
Alpha Distributing visited The Beverage Journal office
on February 4, to showcase a timely March product, Irish
whiskey. Known in Ireland as The Gaelic Soldier, Kern Triple
Distilled Blended Irish Whiskey is produced at Ireland’s
award-winning Teeling Distillery. Kern is aged up to five
years in American Oak with Irish malts and grains, giving
the whiskey a honey-malt finish.
M.S. WALKER’S MAGIROS TAKES ON NEW
ACCOUNT ROLE
Ian Magiros moved into his new position of On-Premise Key
Account Specialist in January 2016. Magiros is a Certified
Sommelier and holds an Advanced Certificate in Wine and
Spirits from WSET.
Ian Magiros, On-Premise Key Account Specialist, M.S. Walker.
Photo by Chris Almeida.
The Natural Choice for Limoncello
All natural, with no preservatives, no flavorings, and no coloring agents.
Made using 100% lemon peels of the special P.G.I. Sorrento Oval lemon variety.
Please reach out to your local Rhode Island Distributors sales representative for information.
WWW.VILLAMASSA.COM
Drink Responsibly. Villa Massa® Liqueur Limoncello. 30% Alc./Vol.
©2016 Imported by Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY 10604. Please Enjoy Responsibly.
BEERHERE
Two Festivals
Showcase Beer’s
Crowd-Drawing Power
BY DANA SLONE
Rhode Islanders were treated to two beer festivals during the
month of January. Many local, regional and national craft brewers
turned out to offer thousands of samples over the course of two
separate weekends. While not produced in conjunction with one
another, the festival crowds showed just how popular a draw craft
beers continue to be for consumers.
The first festival was the Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
Federal Hill Pizza presented the inaugural event on January 16,
2016 at the Historic Warren Armory in Warren. One hundred
percent of the door funds, the event’s raffle funds and a portion of
the proceeds were donated to Chefs Feeding Kids and the Historic
Warren Armory Restoration Fund.
The second festival for area beer lovers, The Rhode Island Brew
Fest, was a sold-out showcase of more than 55 breweries featuring
more than 175 beers at the Pawtucket Armory. The festival, in its
fourth year, is produced by Gray Matter Marketing, who donated
a portion of every ticket sold to the Rhode Island Brewers Guild.
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An expanded gallery is posted at www.thebeveragejournal.com/
ri-winter-beer-fests-2016.
1. Federal Hill Pizza’s Rich Kraemer, General Manager and Event
Director and William A. Manzo, Owner/Chef. Rhode Island
Winter Beer Blast 2016.
2. Bill McAvoy, CT and RI Sales Manager, Two Roads Brewing in
Stratford, CT. Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
3. Patrick Bailey, Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale/DFW Brewery
Rep, Alltech Lexington Brewing and Distilling Company.
Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
4. Both from Revival Brewing Company in Cranston, RI: Alex
Roskowski, Brewer, and Michaela Brinkley, Customer Service and
Marketing Coordinator. Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
5. Cara Liefers, Director of Sales, Grey Sail Brewing of Westerly,
RI. Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
6. Chris Martelly, Sales, Atlantic Distributing and Importing
and Scott Allan, Brewery Rep., Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers of
Framingham, MA. Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
7. Jared Ducharme, Sales Manager, Whaler’s Brewing Company
of Wakefield, RI. Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
8. Jacqueline Vaughn, Mumma’s Real Lemonade of Warren, RI.
Rhode Island Winter Beer Blast 2016.
9. Jamie Buscher, Intern, Narragansett Beer and Amber Niaura,
Intern, Narragansett Beer of Providence, RI. Rhode Island
Brew Fest 2016.
10. Bill McAvoy, CT and RI Sales Manager, Two Roads Brewing
in Stratford, CT, with Jacqui Macek. Rhode Island Brew Fest
2016.
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BEERHERE
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Photos by Chris Almeida.
11. Carrie Anne Kelly, New England Sales Manager, 21st Amendment
Brewery of San Leandro, CA. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
12. All from Whaler’s Brewing Company in Wakefield, RI: Courtney
Zink; Wesley Staschke, Co-owner and Brewer; Josh Dunlap, Coowner and Brewer; Nicole Anderson. Rhode Island Brew Fest
2016.
13. Gray Matter Marketing’s Brian Hodge, Director of Communications,
and Matthew Gray, President. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
14. All of Foolproof Brewing Company of Pawtucket, RI: Steve Sharp,
Head Brewer; Kris Cumming, Sales Manager; and Nick Garrison,
President and Founder. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
15. Sean McGilloway, District Manager, Green Flash Brewing
Company of San Diego, CA. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
16. Craft Beer Guild of RI’s Eric Schwartz, Sales Rep., and Shaun
Daniels, Sales Supervisor, pouring for Colorado’s Left Hand
Brewing Company. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
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17. All of Bucket Brewery from Pawtucket, RI: Peter Larrivee, Sales
Manager; Nate Broomfield, Founder and President; and Drew
Powers, Founder. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
18. Michelle Kirms, Assistant Brewer, Grey Sail Brewing of Westerly,
RI. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
19. Matt Thomas, CT/RI Regional Sales Manager, Dog Fish Head Craft
Brewery of Milton, DE. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
20. Clare Simpson-Daniel, PR and Events Captain, and Keiko Gammel,
Events, of Newport Storm Brewery in Newport, RI. Rhode Island
Brew Fest 2016.
21. Providence’s Long Live Beerworks, Brian Lee, Assistant Brewer;
Armando DeDona, Brewer/Owner; and Chris Moran. Rhode Island
Brew Fest 2016.
22. Matt Richardson, Owner and Brewmaster, Tilted Barn Brewery of
Exeter, RI. Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
23. Stonington, CT’s Beer’d Brewing’s Aaron Simoncini, Owner and
Brewer, and Precious Putnam, Owner and Operations Manager.
Rhode Island Brew Fest 2016.
M ARC H 2 01 6
LOCAL CHATTER
Community is at the Heart
of Success for a Team
of Restaurateurs
Bobbie and Bob Bacon.
BY LAUREN DALEY
Bob and Bobbie Bacon might be Michigan natives, but they’re
true blue Rhode Islanders at heart.
The husband and wife team — who co-own four Gregg’s Restaurants
and Taverns in Rhode Island — have made it their mission over
the last few decades to create a close-knit community feel in their
Rhode Island restaurants. They extend that community feeling
by donating to Rhode Islanders in need — including to Hasbro
Children’s Hospital in Providence, the Special Olympics in Rhode
Island, and the Rhode Island Community Food Bank. And over
the last 20 years, Gregg’s Giving Tree has become something of a
community staple — the Bacons’ program has given some 400,000
holiday gifts to those in need.
In 2013, the Rhode Island Chapter of the Association of
Fundraising Professionals (AFP-RI) bestowed Gregg’s with the
Outstanding Philanthropic Business Award. More recently,
Gregg’s won the NRA Restaurant Neighbor Award at the 2015
Rhode Island Hospitality Association’s Stars of the Industry
annual awards. The Bacons don’t give for the glory; they give for
the good of their community, as Bob said in a recent interview.
Q: Tell us a bit about you and Bobbie. When and why did you get
into the restaurant business?
A: We met while attending a small college in southern Michigan,
Olivet College. We also both worked at a restaurant called Win
Schuler’s [in Michigan]. I was a busboy and Bobbie was the most
beautiful waitress I have ever seen. Both of us have been in the
“Rhode Island is definitely a unique place to live and
work. I can’t think of any other state where people can
live at total opposite ends of the state and still interact
on a regular basis. Our restaurants exude that same
sense of close community.”
BOB BACON
restaurant business forever. I started working at my neighbor’s
restaurant in Michigan at 11, and Bobbie’s parents owned and
operated a small local restaurant and also a local Tavern in Battle
Creek. [Today] we reside in East Greenwich, where we raised three
sons, and are now proud grandparents. [But we’re] not completely
empty-nesters — we have a 4-year-old boxer named Harlie.
Q: Tell us a bit about your history with Gregg’s.
A: I began working at Gregg’s in 1982 [and] helped the previous
owner grow the concept and the company. From the beginning,
we had the agreement that I would buy it when he retired.
The original location was in Warwick. Our other locations
(Providence, East Providence and North Kingstown) came about
when opportunity knocked. All of our locations [are the sites of
previous] restaurants that failed. When presented with the chance
to take them over, we evaluated the local community and decided
whether the Gregg’s concept was a good fit.
Q: Do you consider Gregg’s a chain?
A: I guess we’re a chain, but we’re a local chain. We benefit from
some aspects of being a chain — buying power, name recognition
… the consistency that having a local central kitchen/bakery gives
us. However, each location has a very loyal and local following and
we’re very active in the communities we serve. This helps us retain
that favorite-local-restaurant feel, and keeps us from experiencing
the disconnect that some national chains have.
Q: What do customers like about going out to Gregg’s?
A: I think our guests like that we’re intimately connected to and
rooted in Rhode Island. We’re pretty well known here in Rhode
Island, and we’ve served multiple generations of Rhode Island
families. Our staff is made up of multiple generations of Rhode
Island families … Rhode Island is definitely a unique place to live
and work. I can’t think of any other state where people can live at
LOCALCHAT TER
CONTINUED ON PAGE 25
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W
wine buzz
Both the LVE
Cabernet & Chardonnay
have a laser-cut label
that features roses as the
background.
New AVA-DriVeN LiNe
reAffirms KeNwooD’s
streNgth iN soNomA
Kenwood Vineyards has held a
strong but relatively quiet presence
in Sonoma County since 1970
(considering they produce about
half a million cases annually). Part
of Pernod Ricard’s wine portfolio
since 2014, the brand is getting a
fresh makeover. SKUs have been
trimmed back, and not only do
the bottles sport a new look, but
longtime winemaker Pat Henderson has been charged with a new
mission to refocus Kenwood by
introducing a new terroir-driven,
AVA-designated range.
The idea is simple—and made doable by Kenwood’s broad
palette of vineyards. “Six Ridges is a tribute to the mountains and
ridges that border this very special place,” explains Henderson.
“With this new range, we wanted to bottle the very best of the
County. We’ve chosen only the best varietals from each appellation
and provided extra special treatment from grape to bottle.”
The new Six Ridge label both represents an aerial view of vineyard blocks and echoes the iconic wolf-head labels of Kenwood’s
Jack London series. The Six Ridges range is rolling out nationwide
now, with the following:
2012 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (SRP $24.99)
2014 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($24.99)
2014 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($21.99)
2013 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($24.99)
2013 Dry Creek Valley Merlot ($24.99)
The sixth, a 2015 Sonoma Coast Sauvignon Blanc, will be available May 2016. Effectively a reserve tier priced under $25, the Six
Ridges line should help draw renewed attention to Kenwood as a
consistent and deep source for value. kenwoodvineyards.com
JohN LegeND ADDs wiNe
to his repertoire
Napa Valley’s Raymond Vineyards and
acclaimed singer/songwriter John Legend
have launched the LVE Collection, which
will be poured exclusively at 66 locations
of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine
Bar through March. LVE stands for Legend
Vineyard Exclusive. There are two wines:
a complex 2013 LVE Cabernet Sauvignon
($24/glass; $96/bottle) and a balanced,
fruit-forward 2014 LVE Chardonnay ($17;
$66). In April, the LVE Collection will be
available through current distributors of
Boisset Collection wines.
boissetcollection.com
flemingssteakhouse.com
lvewines.com
John Legend with
Jean-Charles Boisset
sAuVigNoN BLANc
fLexiNg muscLes iN 2016
Look what’s having a moment: Sauvignon Blanc, the aromatic and naturally acid-fueled grape that has been a perennial distant #2 to Chardonnay. SB was lauded by Nielsen
as one of the hottest varietal wines of 2015, growing 10.7%
in volume and 13.3% in value. Over in Marlborough, NZ,
Wine Spectator columnist Matt Kramer told a crowd at the
first-ever Sauvignon Blanc Celebration in that NZ’s own
distinctive style of SB is entering a “mid-life” crisis, and in
the next stage, “talent beats luck.” Meanwhile, Rombauer
Vineyards, known for Cab and Chard like so many Napa
Valley wineries, has released their first Sauvignon Blanc—
it’s fresh, crisp and vibrant (SRP $24).
THIS IS
JUST THE
BEGINNING.
50 years ago,
Robert Mondavi’s vision
was to make Napa Valley
wines stand amongst
the greatest of the world.
We know he’d be proud.
Visit RobertMondaviWinery.com
for more information.
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2016 Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville, CA
O N -P R E M I S E ADV I C E
WHETHER YOU TWEET, FACEBOOK
OR INSTAGRAM, SOCIAL MEDIA
MARKETING IS KEY
BY LEN PANAGGIO
I write a lot about seeking the newest, hippest and hottest
products to offer our guests. Placing new beers, wines and
spirits on your lists — and innovative dishes on your menus — is
important, as it demonstrates your commitment to staying
current. We immediately update our menus and wine lists
in order to communicate the changes internally, but we also
need to be sure to share the message externally, to current and
potential customers.
a photo of any new product, write a short blurb, and post it
to Facebook, Instagram or Twitter. Bingo! Instant publicity.
I “like” many Facebook pages of restaurants and stores to see
what is out there and what they are doing. It is mind-boggling
how effective this form of marketing is. However, many places
still aren’t using these free social media tools. If you’re one of
them, what are you waiting for? I know it can seem daunting, so
I’ll share what I’ve learned.
When we communicate change, we must do so to at least two
very different groups: baby boomers and millennials. The
boomers are an important market segment, as they have time
and money to spend. Millennials, on the other hand, want
more time but don’t have the money. However, they are the
future of our businesses, whether on premise or off premise,
and we need to embrace them, not ignore them.
Just like anything else, there is a right way and a wrong way to
promote yourself on social media. First of all, as in traditional
advertising and marketing tactics, to be effective, you must be
consistent. You have to get your message out on a regular basis
or your message dies off. It may seem easy enough to throw
something up on Facebook or Instagram, but trust me, to do it
right, it can be almost a full-time job!
As a boomer myself, I still believe traditional word of
mouth is the most effective way to get your message out to
this segment. As an operator, if you do your job right and
excel at it, your guests will sing your praises, leading to free
referrals. For example, I am often asked for food and beverage
recommendations when people visit. My answers are based on
my own personal experiences; people trust my judgment and
often they will get back to me and let me know if they thought I
was right or wrong.
Consider assigning one or more people from your team to
manage each account on a daily basis. To change it up every
once in a while, allow an eager server or staff member to do a
‘social media takeover’ and manage the channel for a day or a
week. It gives followers a new perspective. Posts don’t have to be
product-focused, either. Be sure to showcase what makes your
business unique, such as your scenic views, friendly staff, or all
those TVs for March Madness!
Millennials, on the other hand, get their information though
social media. They want the quick abridged version of
marketing; just a photo or photo with a short caption. This
is an effective and immediate way of getting information to
the public, and a lot of boomers are beginning to embrace
this trend. When consulting a client, I advise them to take
I personally enjoy looking at what is posted on both Facebook
and Instagram, as they are great sources for discovering new
and exciting products and trends. This form of marketing is
instant, effective and very cost-effective. Like I always say, isn’t
that what our guests expect from us? New, hip, hot products
and new, hip, hot ways of promoting them!
Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Sláinte!
ABOUT
LEN PANAGGIO, BEVERAGE CONSULTANT
Len Panaggio’s career in food and wine spans more than three decades as an owner and as a beverage director at some of the top
restaurants in Rhode Island. Currently a hospitality consultant, Len is a graduate of the University of Rhode Island and has attended
the Culinary Institute of America Master Sommelier program and the Sterling School of Service and Hospitality.
Rhode Island’s only trade magazine
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RE TAI L R EVI EW
Allen’s Wine
and Spirits
BY SAVANNAH MUL
A
llen’s Wine and Spirits has
customers from all over the
Ocean State who travel for
their variety and service. “[The success]
is a combination of a lot of things,” said
store owner, Glenn Allen, “it’s service,
hospitality, being friendly, we’re like a
family here, and we have great products
and loyal customers.” In June, Allen’s
Wine and Spirits will be celebrating their
25th anniversary.
Alex Allen, Glenn’s son, who serves as the
events manager and partner, said they will
be organizing a celebration to commemorate
the success of their business and growth
throughout the years. The anniversary will
also see the beginning of a rewards program
to give back to their loyal customer base.
When Glenn Allen started his business in
1991, he had prior liquor store experience,
having worked at a retail location while
in college. He saw the opportunity in the
beverage alcohol retail business, changed his
plans and applied for his own Class A license
in Portsmouth, an area he felt had good
population demographics and would serve
customers conveniently on the main road.
Allen’s Wine and Spirits staffs 10 employees
and “all have a background in restaurant
work, know alcohol safety procedures, are
TIPS certified and know how to make a
recommendation [for customers],” said
LO C AT ION
3001 EAST MAIN ROAD
PORTSMOUTH, RI
FAC T S
SQUARE FOOTAGE: 2,400
YEARS IN OPERATION: 25
Alex. “Every time we bring in new products,
we train our staff on them to educate
the consumer.”
The store’s sales are mostly driven by beer.
Alex credits purchasing manager Brandon
Lavigne, who for the past 10 years has been
stocking the latest releases to satisfy the
consumer demand for craft beer. Another
trend Glenn has seen since he began in the
business is the growth in rosé wines and red
blends, of which they carry a large selection
to keep up with demand.
“We’re also seeing the younger generation
developing their palette and purchasing
[those] bourbons and whiskies,” Glenn said.
More specifically, he said domestic whiskey
sales have been on the rise in his store
because he sees more millennials buying
USA-made products.
Aside from the retail end of the business,
Glenn said about 15 years ago they extended
outside of their brick-and-mortar location
to build up the catering end of their
business, serving as a liquor supplier for
catering companies. With past experience
working in restaurants and as a bartender in
Darrell Laramie, Employee; Alex Allen, Events
Manager and Partner; Glenn Allen, Store Owner;
Elias Wheeler, Employee.
Boston, along with a business degree from
Northeastern University, Alex facilitates
orders with caterers, as well as arranges oneon-one consulting services for weddings and
parties to coordinate a custom cocktail and
beverage program.
For the past 10 years, they have been working
with Blackstone Caterers in Middletown.
“Through good service we’ve kept them
for that long,” Alex said. “We have a great
relationship with them.”
In 2009, Rhode Island Monthly named
Allen’s Wine and Spirits to their “Best of
Rhode Island” in the wine shop category.
The local Portsmouth Rotary Club also
recognized them as a “Business of the Year”
and they have received accolades from the
Newport Chamber of Commerce, as well
as the Portsmouth Business Association.
They also have been recognized by local
police departments for promoting safe and
responsible drinking and have worked with
local nonprofits on fundraising events.
Allen’s Wine and Spirits also delivers
special orders to a host of private clients
in Newport. ■
If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured,
email: dana@thebeveragejournal.com
SE RVI NGU P
LOCALCHAT TER
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 18
5 4 5 4 P O S T R OA D
EAST GREENWICH, RI
total opposite ends of the state and still interact on a regular basis. Our restaurants exude
that same sense of close community.
Q: You’re known for your philanthropy. What do you like most about giving back?
A: We’ve been blessed with a successful business, a loyal and dedicated staff and great
guests — that’s why we’re compelled to give back. Our focus has been to always give back
to the communities and people that have been responsible for our success. We try to focus
our efforts on Rhode Island-based initiatives and organizations, where their efforts are
focused on helping fellow Rhode Islanders. Our own Gregg’s Giving Tree program is …
a great example of an initiative that has grown beyond our wildest dreams and now helps
bring the joy of Christmas to thousands of children, elderly and families in Rhode Island
each year.
Q: And what is the “Giving Cake”?
A: The Giving Cake came about with
Alongside an extensive seafood
and pizza menu featuring items from
blackened fish tacos to grilled scampi
pizza — and extensive wine list,
Meritage also offers creative tapas and
artistic cocktails.
BARTENDER: Lindsay Gardiner
COCKTAIL: The Rye Cocktail
RECIPE: Mix
• 3 oz. house-made vanilla-infused
Templeton Rye Whiskey*
• 2 tsps. Royal Rose cardamom clove simple
syrup
• Juice of 3 fresh lemon wedges
Shake vigorously. Serve on the rocks in a
lowball glass. Garnish with lemon twist.
*House infused whiskey: Add 3 vanilla sticks
to a bottle of Templeton Rye whiskey. Let
stand for about a week. Strain.
The drink “tastes of smooth, mild vanilla
but still maintains the bite of whiskey,”
said Gardiner. “The fresh lemon adds a
crisp citrus taste. I thought it would be
interesting adding the [cardamom clove]
simple syrup to play off the vanilla. It also
adds a great aroma to the drink.”
the simple desire to do something to
help The Hasbro Children’s Hospital …
We created a special chocolate peanut
butter cake and … for well over a
decade now, a portion of the proceeds
of each slice is donated to [Hasbro]. To
date the program has generated close
to $150,000.
Q: What do you consider the backbone
of your business?
A: Our desserts are what
Brian Casey, H Robert Bacon, Bobbie Bacon
and Bahjat Shariff at the 2015 RIHA annual
awards dinner.
we’re best known for … Our brand is basically quality products priced to
provide value to our guest and served in a clean comfortable atmosphere. An
exceptionally friendly and accommodating staff is a big part of our brand,
as well.
Q. What tips do you have for other restaurant owners, or others in the hospitality business?
A: This business is not for the faint of heart. If you don’t have a passion for hospitality
the restaurant business will eat you up. People are great but they will challenge you every
day. You have to be up every day for the challenge.
Q: You’ve also added a bar section. What cocktails, beers, wines are you liking at Gregg’s
right now?
A: Our liquor sales are dominated by wines by the glass and beer. We also have a segment
of our clientele that really enjoy the martini and Manhattan selections we offer. Our
demographics are so varied from location to location, day to day and restaurant area to
restaurant area that it is difficult to pinpoint any segment that stands out in terms of
liquor sales. Our beverage director, Janet Courtois, is really good about listening to our
guests and responding to what they are asking for, so we are always offering new drink
selections that are seasonally driven.
Interview was condensed. View more at www.thebeveragejournal.com. ■
ASSO C I AT I ONNEWS
IT’S JUST THE TIP
OF THE ICEBERG
BY DALE J. VENTURINI
Wage issues are an ongoing, hot-button topic for politicians
and business owners alike. In the face of legislation focused on
eliminating the tipped wage, we spent the better part of 2015
undertaking a grassroots, educational campaign to illustrate how
the realities of wage increases can hinder the local economy and the
myriad small businesses that fuel it.
Those in favor of eliminating the federal tipped wage are organized,
paid activists, likely with no experience in the restaurant sector,
and who deliberately misrepresent the facts related to how our
industry compensates its tipped employees. This is part of a strong,
coordinated, calculated and persistent campaign against our industry
from out-of-state groups with no skin in the game.
Rhode Island has undergone four wage increases in as many years.
The latest took effect on January 1, 2016, raising the state’s
minimum wage from $9.00 to $9.60. Governor Raimondo has called
to increase that wage again, hiking it an additional five percent to
$10.10 an hour.
Business owners have not yet adjusted to the last minimum-wage
increase, and our concern is that every increase adds to the burden
and forces them to make changes to compensate for the wage
increase. These decisions will ultimately have a negative impact the
community: the hiring of fewer employees, fewer hours for those
employees, and reduced benefits. We’re carefully watching the
Governor’s proposed wage increase to see what its effect will be on
local business.
law allows employers to credit a portion of an employee’s received tips
toward the state’s minimum wage rate.
RI state law permits employers to pay a tipped employee a minimum
cash wage of at least $3.39 (is this the current new wage 2.89 + .50)
per hour and take a tip credit of $6.21 per hour, for a total of $9.60
per hour - which is RI’s minimum wage. However, if an employee’s
tips fall below the tip credit of $6.21 per hour, the employer is
responsible for making up the difference and ensuring that the
employee is paid at least minimum wage, regardless of tips. So, in no
instance will an employee ever make less than minimum wage.
According to a recent article in the Providence Journal, “Rhode Island
servers enjoy generous tips according to a new study,” (1.22.16).
Rhode Island ranks as the seventh most generous tipping state in the
United States, with servers making an average of 21 percent in tips.
In fact, the report cites New England as the nation’s most generous
tipping region.
This supports research from the National Restaurant Association
(NRA), which reports that tip-earning employees can be among the
industry’s higher-earning employees, earning a median of $12 to $17
an hour in tips, according to recent Association research.
Wage issues will continue to be hot-button topics. I think we can all
agree that people who are working in good jobs should not be living
in poverty. However, before everyone is quick to jump on the wageincrease bandwagon, we need to spend more time understanding the
issues and the facts at hand.
The emerging workforce is the hidden casualty in wage increases.
As business owners are forced to pay more, they need to hire
more selectively, choosing workers with baseline experience and a
complimentary skill set. It just doesn’t make good business sense to
hire a young person at a high hourly wage and then have to spend a
large percentage of work time teaching and training.
Rhode Island’s hospitality industry is regularly lauded for business
growth, job generation and providing necessary tax monies to state
coffers. We are an economic cornerstone and a true community
partner. However, we are regularly demonized by these out-of-state,
organized activists whose sole mission is to twist the truth and
ultimately drive hospitality owners out of business.
The tipped wage underwent a separate wage hike of 50 cents in
January 2016, with another 50-cent increase scheduled for 2017.
This was a compromise in response to a bill last year which sought to
completely eliminate the tipped wage. The current federal tip-credit
To allow these activists to dictate Rhode Island’s wage agenda is
unacceptable. To learn how you can help keep our industry strong
and able to employ more than 70,000 folks in the state, please visit:
www.rihospitality.org.
ABOUT DALE J. VENTURINI, PRESIDENT & CEO, RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION
A veteran of more than 25 years in the hospitality industry, Venturini is considered by many to be the voice of the industry in the
state of Rhode Island. She has been instrumental in improving the industry’s educational and training programs in the state, as well
as enhancing the bottom line of the business she represents. Venturini splits her time between the office and the State House, a
constant presence for her membership.
WAS A WARM-UP
EVERYTHING ELSE
DON’T GET BURNED. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. | RESPONSIBILITY.ORG
JACK DANIEL’S, OLD NO. 7 and TENNESSEE FIRE are trademarks. ©2015 JACK DANIEL’S. Whiskey Specialty, 35% ALC/VOL. (70 PROOF). JACK DANIEL DISTILLERY, Lynchburg, Tennessee.
#JACKFIRE
IRISH SPRING
The Wind Continues to be at Irish Whiskey’s Back
BY JEFF CIOLETTI
T
here’s no denying that whiskey has been on a tear
as of late, but the fastest-growing segment of the
category tends not to get as much attention as its
Scottish and Kentuckian cousins.
Overall, whiskey already accounts
for more spirits revenue than vodka and
it’s poised to overtake it in volume soon
enough. That’s due in large part to the
surge in demand for high-end, straight
American whiskeys—including the
bourbon, rye and Tennessee segments—
as well as the top price tier of the Scotch
segment, single malt.
However, the real MVP, in terms of
percent growth, has been Irish whiskey,
which has been growing in the mid teens
to low 20% range for the past several
years. Irish represents about 2.5 million
9-liter case equivalents, or just under 5%
of total U.S. whiskey volume, according
to the Distilled Spirits Council of the
United States (DISCUS). In revenue
terms, Irish accounts for about $500
million of the $7 billion whiskey
category, or about 7% of total dollars.
For 2014, Irish volume increased 9.1%,
while revenue increased 10.7% to $553
million, according to Nielsen.
Segment leader Jameson has had
a great deal to do with Irish whiskey’s
overall trajectory, as brand owner
Pernod Ricard reported its revenue
growth in the U.S. market slightly
outpaced that of the brand’s overall
global business, surging 13%. Those
numbers seem even more impressive
when considering the fact that Jameson
commands nearly two-thirds of the
global market for Irish whiskey.
The modern tale of Irish whiskey in the U.S.
is rife with activity, outpacing whiskey overall.
OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE: Among
important developments: the rise of smaller brands,
such as Kennedy (top, left), made possible by
the halo effect of Irish category leader Jameson.
Anticipating increased tourism, Tullamore D.E.W.
recently completed a $40 million facility. Kilbeggan
is one of a scant few Irish whiskeys that is doubledistilled; most are triple-distilled.
THIS PAGE: The Jameson Visitor Experience in
Midleton (top). Right: The Irishman uses distilling
techniques from Irish whiskey’s heyday 200 years ago.
“There’s obviously good marketing
behind the brand, thanks to Pernod
Ricard,” says Heidi Donelon,
internationally renowned Irish whiskey
expert and the driving force behind
the Ireland Whiskey Trail. “But at the
end of the day, you could throw all
the money behind a product and if it’s
not good, it’s not going to be a massive
success.” Jameson’s signature smoothness
and approachability, she says, has been
helping consumers discover or rediscover
the category.
Shifting drinker demographics have
also played a role, says Jameson brand
director Sona Bajaria. “Whiskey drinkers
are different than they were 10 years ago;
consumers are changing and becoming
more savvy,” Bajaria says. “Whiskey
drinking occasions are evolving—straight,
mixed, cocktails, etc. Additionally, more
women are entering the category.”
HALO EFFECT
Pernod Ricard expects Jameson to be
a billion-dollar brand before the end
of the decade, and its momentum is a
welcome development not only for the
parent company, but other brand owners
competing in the space.
The category, Bajaria says, will
continue to welcome new entrants
offering not just new trademarks, but also
further segmentation within the category
like small-batch offerings and flavored
options. “In the context of this category,
Jameson will continue to build upon its
current advocacy by remaining relevant
with its current offering, innovation and
application to multiple usage occasions.”
For the new and smaller players in
the category, Jameson is that proverbial
rising tide, and they hope that some of the
spotlight the dominant brand is enjoying
might spill on to their contenders.
“The other brands are capitalizing on
the growth of Jameson,” says Alejandra
Peña, senior vice president of marketing
for Castle Brands, known for its Clontarf
brand and the more premium Irish singlemalt Knappogue Castle, available in 12-,
14- and 16-year-old expressions, as well as
some limited-release bottlings.
A key growth driver for the overall
Irish whiskey segment has been its
approachable taste profile, which tends
to be a bit milder than the more flavorforward bourbon and Scotch. “Irish
whiskey, compared to other whiskeys is
much easier to drink,” Peña notes.
Castle has been able to play in
that space, given the familiar flavor
characteristics consumers may initially
have encountered with Jameson. “We have
Clontarf, which is a blend and basically
we are a value brand, priced a bit below
Jameson,” Peña explains. “And we have
been growing quite nicely in the U.S., as
well as Europe. But it’s hard to compete
against the giant; we don’t have the same
resources. Consumers like Jameson, but at
some point they’re ready to try something
new. That’s why smaller brands see the
benefits of what Jameson is doing.”
IRISH WHISKEY
In that respect, Irish often acts as a
bridge for regular vodka drinkers who
want to transition to a spirit with a bit
more flavor. “Irish whiskey is a perfect fit,
as opposed to going straight to Scotch,”
Peña explains.
There’s also rising interest among those
already drinking whiskey who are looking
to broaden their palates across all of its
diverse styles and expressions. Social media
certainly has made the consumer base more
well-rounded and better informed.
“I think the category is seeing such
growth because many consumers are looking
for an alternative to standard whiskeys,”
offers Mara Melamed, the senior brand
manager for Beam Suntory’s Irish whiskey
portfolio. “There is a certain appreciation
for Irish whiskey that is evolving along with
today’s whiskey drinkers. Consumers are
now more educated and are looking for new
options with distinct flavors.”
EXTENDING OUT & UP
Once consumers participate in the
category on the sub-premium level, the
time may come when they’re ready to trade
up. “There’s room for premium brands like
in the vodka segment with Grey Goose
and in tequila with Patrón,” Peña notes.
“Premiumization hasn’t really happened
yet, but [Knappogue Castle] is the brand
we have to compete in that segment.”
Peña says she hopes to woo a few
Scotch drinkers to the Irish side, especially
since those consumers tend to have an
affinity for history and heritage. “They
like to explore,” she says. “Maybe not the
IRISH WHISKEY SELECTIONS
super hardcore single-malt drinkers who
like products that are very smoky. We’re
much more delicate in taste profile.”
Meanwhile, Beam Suntory plays across
most of the price tiers, starting with 2
Gingers, which retails for $19.99 and whose
smoothness and slightly sweet profile is
designed to appeal to a new generation of
whiskey drinkers of both genders. “We’ve
introduced 2 Gingers as the ‘converter,’
as it’s meant to convert consumers who
typically drink beer or vodka into whiskey
drinkers,” says Beam Suntory’s Melamed,
calling the brand “genderless, seasonless,
mixable and accessible.” It’s also doubledistilled, which goes against the grain of
the typically triple-distilled Irish whiskeys
and is more in the Scotch tradition.
Also twice-distilled is Kilbeggan,
Beam’s premium-blended brand, produced
in a 180-year-old pot still and selling at
a suggested price of $23.99. Tyrconnell,
which retails for around $34.99, is
positioned as an ideal introduction to the
world of single malt Irish whiskey. Those
looking for a more smoky, peaty profile
akin to an Islay Scotch are the target for
Beam Suntory’s Connemara brand, selling
at a suggested $44.99. Finally, Greenore,
with a price tag of $49.99 gives consumers
a chance to try one of the few single grain
Irish whiskeys on the market.
NO DRAM, YES DRAMA
Beam Suntory’s enhanced presence in
the category hasn’t been without its
controversies. In 2011, Beam acquired the
Cooley Distillery, which had produced
the whiskey for Sidney Frank Importing
Co.’s Michael Collins brand. In a lawsuit
filed two years ago and still ongoing,
Sidney Frank’s legal team asserted that
its contract with Cooley was “wrongfully”
terminated by its new owner, which
effectively cut off supplies for Michael
Collins and pushed it off the market. A
Sidney Frank spokesperson confirmed that
the brand has been discontinued “due to
lack of supply.” As a result of its absence,
Michael Collins, whose line included a
blend and a lightly peated single malt, has
become something of a collector’s item.
While Beam Suntory has made a
conscious effort to step up its profile in
the category, Pernod Ricard has continued
to apply full support to its Jameson
franchise. Of special interest: Black Barrel,
introduced two years ago, pushing Jameson
in a similar direction—namely special
barrel finishes—as other whiskeys of late.
Not to be forgotten, Pernod Ricard’s
hand in the Irish segment is broadened
significantly with smaller-scale Powers
(with a substantial pot still component)
and upscale, aged expressions of the pure
pot-still Redbreast.
On the other hand, another
large global spirits marketer, Diageo,
announced it effectively was getting out
of the Irish whiskey business, at least
for now. Last year Diageo traded the
brand Bushmills to Jose Cuervo for full
ownership of Don Julio Tequila. Though
Bushmills performed well, the global
drinks giant wanted a bigger piece of
the high-end tequila market. Bushmills
Preserving the Fine Craft
of Traditional Irish Whiskey
92
POINTS
Prepared with fresh spring water
sourced from the Ilen River
Only distillery to malt its
own Irish-grown Barley
100% Irish owned & crafted
Artisanal Irish Whiskey
imported from Ireland
Produced, Distilled and Bottled in Ireland by West Cork Distillers, LLC.
Imported by M.S. Walker, Inc. Somerville, MA. 40% Alc/Vol. Please enjoy responsibly. WESTCORKDISTILLERS.COM
IRISH WHISKEY
should make Cuervo a credible player
across most price tiers in the category; its
offerings range from its flagship blend to
more specialty offerings like Black Bush,
which gets its signature deep amber hue
from seven-plus years in Oloroso Sherry
casks and sweet bourbon barrels. Others
in its range include the honey-infused
Irish Honey and 10-year-old, 16-year-old
and 21-year-old single malt expressions.
VARIATIONS EMERGE
While single malt and single pot still Irish
whiskeys are satisfying consumers’ desire
to trade up, West Cork Distillers’ Kennedy
range speaks to another trend that spans
most whiskey segments: a bit o’ flavor. In
addition to its original blend, Kennedy
offers Spiced, Honey, Lime and Chili
varieties. M.S. Walker, which imports
Kennedy, also introduced the distillery’s
West Cork Irish Whiskey brand last year,
available in its Original Classic Blend and
10-Year-Old Single Malt.
Another relative newcomer to the U.S.
market is Donegal Estates, which importer
Star Industries introduced about a year
ago. The blend gets its characteristic sweet
nose and smooth taste from the four years
it spends maturing in bourbon barrels.
Also popular on the market is
William Grant USA’s The Knot, which
technically isn’t an Irish whiskey—it’s
considered a whiskey liqueur, along
the lines of a Drambuie or Southern
Comfort. The company is clear about
whom they are targeting. Marketing
material describes it as “a shot drink”
IRISH WHISKEY SELECTIONS
Tullamore D.E.W.’s new facility brought distilling
back to the town of Tullamore. The portfolio
includes the original, aged in Sherry and bourbon
casks; a 10-year-old Single Malt and 12-year-old
Special Reserve; and the 110 proof Phoenix.
and “a real man’s drink that respects
the sacred code of real manhood.”
With so much consumer demand for
new products and line extensions, the
industry has been in a race to ensure that
production and logistical infrastructure
are up to date. Among Ireland’s new
distillery projects, the Walsh family’s
facility—slated for completeion in
2016—is notable in that all three types
of whiskey (malt, pot and grain) will
be made under the same roof for the
first time. Their brand, The Irishman,
imported by Palm Bay, uses methods from
Irish whiskey’s heyday 200 years ago and
boasts a diverse array of styles. Expressions
in the portfolio include the bargain-priced
Founder’s Reserve (SRP $33) and a highend Cask Strength (108 proof, $150).
Last fall, William Grant & Sons
brought distilling back to the town of
Tullamore for the first time in six decades
when it opened the new $40 million
facility to produce its Tullamore D.E.W.
brand. The site will help keep up with
demand for the Tullamore D.E.W. range,
which includes its sherry and bourbon
cask-aged original, its 12-year-old Special
Reserve; 10-year-old Single Malt; and
Phoenix at 55% ABV with a high
concentration of pure pot still whiskey.
And, this year, the Teeling Whiskey
Company officially will bring whiskey
making back to Dublin for the first time
in more than 125 years when it opens its
newly constructed distillery.
“More exciting things are going to
happen because you have more brands
investing,” says Castle’s Peña. “The
category’s a lot more dynamic than it used
to be. It used to be one player, Jameson,
but now you have Beam and new brands
and new distilleries being opened.
Competition is going to be a bit tougher,
but I think that’s going to be good for the
whole category to get more consumers to
switch or to try Irish whiskey.” ■
rhÔne revival
Po w er ed by T err o ir , Styl e and Va lue , Rhône Wines
ar e Lead i ng the Way in France
By david lincoln ross
While the wind certainly plays a
role, Rhône reds (nearly 80% of the
region’s wine) draw on much more en
route to their ultimate fruity, spicy style—
diverse grapes (ten red and nine white
are permitted); challenging stony soils;
the art of blending. What matters most,
of course, is that factors both stylistic
and economic have converged to boost
Rhône wines tangibly ahead of the rest
of France in the current American wine
arena. Rhône wine exports to the U.S.
doubled in the last decade, hitting 1.2
million 9L cases in 2014, according to
French Customs data. In 2014, Rhône
red, white and rosé sales gained 6% in the
U.S., reports Nielsen.
Perhaps most importantly, the buzz
about the Rhône is spread across both onand off-premise, and North and South.
Michael Madrigale, Wine Director at
Boulud Sud in New York City, says, “When I
became sommelier ten years ago, customers
knew about Southern Rhône, and especially
Above: Costières de Nimes—an official AOC
since 1986 and the southernmost of the Rhône
Valley wine-growing areas—is also notable
for implementation of the Costières de Nîmes
Landscape and Environmental Charter, an
innovative concept to protect and promote
sustainability in winegrowing areas.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While these wines
are popular, everyone is interested in CôteRôtie and all Northern Rhône wines now.”
Alan Sack, Wine Consultant at
Warehouse Wines in New York City,
notes: “There is more willingness and
interest among customers to explore
Rhône wines. In our store, you can find a
Côte-Rôtie for $20.”
Success has also spread across subregions and price points. “When you look
at 2014 trends in French wines, it’s the
$15-$20 (+8.5% growth by volume) and
Core Luxury $20+ (+15.1% by volume)
categories driving growth, according to
Nielsen,” explains Bill Terlato, President
of Terlato Wines International, importer
Top photograph and top left on opposite page courtesy of Inter Rhône
N
ot often does wind get credit for winemaking, but in France’s
Rhône Valley, the Mistral deserves some respect. Sending cool
air down the Rhône River as many as 100 days in the year, the
benificent breeze chills hot summer days, mitigating intense
heat in the vineyards. It also scrubs vineyards of diseases from humidity, rain
and fog. Purists also boast that the wind works like a virtual conveyor belt,
infusing the region’s leading red grapes—Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre—
with spicy dollops of the aromatic shrubbery garrigue.
rhÔne revival
Above: The Rhône region overall is known for
red wines, but Nielsen reports that in 2014 fully a
third (36%) of all Rhône wines sold were rosés.
Right: The view from Jean-Luc Colombo’s Les
Ruchets vineyard in Cornas, in the Northern Rhône.
The steep parcel is only 5.4 acres, planted with
90+-year-old vines on steep granite slopes; all
work in the vineyards is done manually. As in other
northern sub-regions, Syrah is the only red variety
grown in Cornas, yielding dark, robust wine.
of Chapoutier wines from the Rhône.
“Nielsen also reports that Core Luxury
Rhône growth of +30% is outpacing the
overall French category, in the 52 weeks
ending 12/06/14. When it comes to
Rhône wines, it’s quality, not quantity,
that is resonating more and more with
consumers today.”
Peter Deutsch, President of Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits, importer of VidalFleury wines, points out that one of the
Rhône’s strengths is offering well-made
options at a variety of price points, not
unlike cars and other products. What
Deutsch finds most surprising is the
sudden rise of rosés from the Rhône over
the last few years. In 2014, Deutsch cited
Nielsen data that reports fully a third
(36%) of all Rhône wines sold were
rosés. It’s a phenomenon he attributes
to the growing popularity of rosés in
general, including those from Rhône’s
neighbor—Provence.
Summing up the prevailing optimism
for these versatile wines, Martin Sinkoff,
VP and Director of Marketing at Frederick
Wildman and Sons, Ltd., importer of
the Paul Jaboulet Aîné and the popular
Jaboulet Parallèle 45 line, says, “We are
bullish on the Rhône as a category. The
wines fit the market, offering lots of
variety, lots of flavor, rich textures and
great value. White wines and rosé wines
will continue to grow, though red wines
will continue to drive the category.”
With or without a boost from the
Mistral, Rhône wines appear poised to
achieve still greater heights for America’s
merchants and restaurateurs.
Lionel de Ravel, U.S. Director,
Gabriel Meffre, a wine producer based in
Gigondas and marketed by Vision Wine
& Spirits, emphasizes that the region’s
momentum seems to have been picking
up: “In just the last three years, American
consumers have truly discovered the
fantastic value Rhône wines offer.”
Perhaps some credit is due to the region’s generic ad campaign—“Côtes-duRhône: Always Right.”—which started
back in 2009 and emphasizes the wine’s
more versatile, accessible and contemporary identity, relative to other French
wines. Eschewing traditional vineyard
and grape visuals, the ads tapped common
contexts and images that portrayed the
flagship red’s ability to swing from casual
to formal settings—e.g., jeans to tuxedo,
pizza to haute cuisine.
church & state
At Church &
State, a French
restaurant in
Los Angeles,
Joy Cushing,
Wine Buyer
and Sommelier
says: “Rhône
has vaulted into
the third most-requested wine. From
Syrah wines in the North to Grenache
blends in the South, they’re perfect
wines for Pinot and Cab lovers. I give
them a taste of a Côtes-du-Rhône,
they love it and become instant
converts.” She adds, “We sell Côtesdu-Rhône by the glass for $12, and
Jean-Luc Colombo’s Cornas for $95,
and both sell well.”
rhÔne revival
Story-telling helps, too. Mel Dick,
Senior Vice President and President of the
Wine Division, Southern Wine & Spirits
of America, which distributes several top
Rhône producers, says: “People love to
learn the stories associated with wines
like Châteauneuf-du-Pape; it’s the Pope’s
wine. So when retailers and restaurateurs
share these stories, customers recall
these wines.”
Here are some tips to keep your
customers’ Rhône crush going as strong as
the Mistral wind:
Take the opportunity to educate. United by
the river Rhône, the Rhône Valley overall
must be viewed as two very distinct parts.
In the rugged, mountainous Northern
Rhône, Syrah is the only red planted;
in the southern part, red blends rule
(comprised typically of mostly Grenache,
Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan).
ers tiring of overripe Syrahs, a peppery
Northern Rhône might be just the ticket.
Tap into bigger trends. Not entirely
by coincidence, the Rhône revival echoes
several major trends in wine today. Red
blends, for example, are red-hot in the
U.S. market; Rhône blends are as old as the
vine-covered hills. Grenache/Garnacha
has been pegged as a candidate for the
next big grape; the Rhône is loaded with
Grenache. And as rosé and organic wines
continue to gain attention, the Rhône is
well-positioned.
Remember the sweet side. Some 2,000
years ago, Roman Pliny the Elder wrote
in his Natural History: “The Muscat
grape has been grown for a long time in
Beaumes and its wine is remarkable.”
For sweet wine lovers, do not forget
the Vins Doux Naturels of Muscat de
Beaumes-de-Vénise (sweet, vivid and
appley); and dark, rich Rasteau, based on
Grenache Noir. n
Remember to cross-sell. The Rhône’s
grape-variety tool kit and propensity for
blending help maintain a family resemblance across appellations that encourages experimentation. If a customer likes
Côtes-du-Rhône, suggest similarly
styled and priced wines from VenSyrah: Solo
toux. For those who enjoy Gigogrape in the
North, blending
ndas, Vacqueyras is likely to be a
partner in the
favorite as well. And for customSouth.
France
Rhône
Valley
Northern
Rhône Valley
Southern
Rhône Valley
N
w
E
S
Duché D'uzès
Region
Though united by the same river, the
Rhône Valley is really two very distinct
parts. In the Northern Rhône, key red
appellations in the Northern Rhône are:
Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Cornas, CrozesHermitage, St. Joseph and St. Péray;
and the white variety Viognier arguably
reaches its earthly pinnacle of quality in
tiny Condrieu.
In the Southern Rhône, the principal
appellations are: Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Tavel, Lirac and
Côtes-du-Rhône. New to the map is the
recently minted AOC of Duché d’Uzès;
cultivated since the 6th century BC, Duché
D’Uzès gained AOC status in July 2012,
and is notable in that white wine is the
area’s rising star.
Top left and bottom middle photographs courtesy of Inter Rhône
Vacqueyras is among a group of Rhône AOCs that
began as a “Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages” but was
then deemed worthy of its own Cru status; 97%
of production is red. Right: Bottles on display at
Chelsea Wine Vault in Manhattan. Rhône wines
range naturally from basic table wines to pair with
coq au vin to cellar-worthy collectibles.
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BLANC PAGE
A S A M E RIC A N S D IV ERSIFY T HEIR PREFERENCES IN WHIT E WINE ,
CH I LEA N SAUVIGN O N BLANC PRESENT S AN OPPORT U NIT Y
BY ROGER MORRIS
‘C
hilean Sauvignon Blanc can be just as crisp as those from
New Zealand, but with the elegance of Sauvignon Blanc
from Loire in France,” says Alex Guarachi, CEO and
founder of California-based TGIC Importers. “And Chile
is capable of doing so many things with Sauvignon Blanc because of the
varied terroirs and growing conditions throughout the country.”
Most wine regions pride themselves
on producing a distinctive style of wine,
something they can heavily market as a
brand—Napa Valley Cabernet, Mendoza
Malbec, South African Chenin Blanc.
But when it comes to their Sauvignon
Blancs, Chilean wine producers love to
flaunt their diversity. If a consumer likes
the Sauvignon style of Sancerre, Marlborough, Graves or California’s North Coast,
Chile thinks it can match those styles and
improve on them, and at a discount.
In fact, Chilean winemakers think so
highly of Sauvignon Blanc that they are
touting it in the American market as the
companion white to go along with the
country’s iconic red, Cabernet Sauvignon,
rather than the traditional Chardonnay.
“The quality of Sauvignon Blanc in Chile
has improved over the past few years more
than Chardonnay,” claims Viña Tarapaca
winemaker Ed Flaherty, and plantings
have increased dramatically.
GEOGRAPHY SPAWNS DIVERSITY
A look at a map of Chile helps explain its
huge capacity for diversity. The country’s
average width from the Pacific Ocean to
the crest of its Andes Mountains and
its border with Bolivia and Argentina
is only 110 miles, about the driving distance from downtown New York City to
Philadelphia. However, it stretches some
2,653 miles from the tropics in the north
almost to the Antarctic in the south,
about the distance between Los Angeles
and Washington, DC.
That north-south span alone encompasses the range of climate possibilities—from hottest to coldest, wettest to
driest—needed to grow practically any
grape variety. Even its narrow east-west
corridor provides a huge range of climates from humid, foggy coastal areas
to temperate interior valleys to chilly
mountainside venues. For Sauvignon
Blanc, a grape that loves to change style
according to where it’s planted, the clone
used and winemaking practices, Chile is
a virtual Noah’s Ark of viticulture.
In short, Sauvignon Blanc from Chile
may all taste like the same variety, but
with distinctive differences, according
to Evan Goldstein, sommelier, consultant and author of the recently published
Wines of South America: The Essential
Guide. “For example, SBs from Casablanca have a cleaner, brighter perfume and
the definitive Sauvignon characters of
herbs, grass, lemon, and olive,” Goldstein
explainss. “I believe that the western,
TOP, LEFT: Chile’s variety of microclimates from north
to south makes it a veritable Noah’s Ark of viticulture.
RIGHT: Recent advances in quality and targeted
promotions are helping raise the profile of Chilean
Sauvignon Blanc above the “bargain wine” level.
Here, revelers at last summer’s #WineBarWars in
NYC enjoy Sauvignon Blancs picked by sommeliers
competing to develop interesting wine lists strictly
from Chilean wines.
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Phil Bernstein (far left) at
Macarthur Beverages in
Washington, DC, thinks
Chilean Sauvignon Blancs
could benefit from more
marketing attention.
In New York City, Chris
Raftery thinks SB is
becoming the Malbec of
white wines by the glass.
Aurelio Montes believes
respect for Chilean
bottlings over $20 is just
around the corner.
cooler-climate area of Casablanca produces zippier elderflower versions, while
farther east, the wines tend to evoke pink
grapefruit, hard candy, and green melon.”
Goldstein suggests keeping an eye on
Limarí, where the wines are mineral-driven; San Antonio, with a spicy character,
and its more concentrated sub-regions
Leyda and Lo Abarca; and Bío-Bío, whose
wines are “elegant with quince aromas.”
As evidence of Chile’s potential for
both quality and diversity in Sauvignon
Blanc, consider Undurraga’s “T.H.” (for
Terroir Hunter) program—dedicated
to finding the best terroirs for various
grapes all over Chile. Acclaimed enologist Rafael Urrejola has pinpointed 30+
parcells, each no more than 12 acres.
As part of this program, he makes three
separate T.H. Sauvignon Blancs, from
Leyda, Casablanca and Lo Abarca, each
vivid and balanced yet distinct. The
2011 Lo Abarca was named best New
World white wine at the ExpoVinis in
São Paulo, Brazil, among entries from
more than 25 countries.
TRADE, CONSUMERS
TAKING NOTICE
While American drinkers grew fonder of
Sauvignon Blanc over the past decade,
particularly by-the-glass offerings, trade
professionals say they now are demanding different, distinct styles, much as an
earlier generation split preferences on
types of Chardonnay.
And while Chardonnay is still the
most popular varietal wine in the United States, Sauvignon Blanc continues
to make inroads. “Sauvignon Blanc is
becoming the Malbec of white wines by
the glass,” says Chris Raftery, sommelier
at CorkBuzz in New York City. “Chilean
Sauvignons are popular in part because
they tend to have a nice salinity to them.”
One ongoing
challenge: with fine
Sauvignon Blancs
made all over the
world, it’s harder for
Chile to stand out.
“People are moving away from New
Zealand’s grapefruit tastes to Sauvignon
Blancs that have more lemon-lime
flavors like those from Chile,” adds Andy
Gesell, VP and South American Manager
for Alabama-based Vineyard Brands,
importer of Cono Sur.
One issue that Chile faces is standing out in a crowded marketplace. Sauvignon Blanc, either 100% varietal or
blended, is produced around the world,
and the U.S. is generally producers’ primary target. Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages in Washington, D.C.,
notes the attractiveness of Chile’s wines,
but feels that the country needs to give
its Sauvignon Blancs the same marketing
attention that New Zealand and France
do theirs. “The Chileans Sauvignons sell
steadily as they are in an attractive price
point,” he says, “but I don’t really have
anyone beating down our door for them.
In general, Chile is dragging its heels a
bit as a category overall.”
Furthermore, Sauvignon Blanc seems
to be positioned in consumers’ minds at
only one price level. “It’s difficult to break
that $20 a bottle price barrier with American drinkers,” concedes Aurelio Montes,
International Vice President for Wines of
Chile and himself an exporter of Chilean
Sauvignon Blancs under his eponymous
label. Respect at higher price points may
be just around the corner, though, based
on quality evident in recent vintages.
Goldstein concludes: “There are very
good price values, especially at the top end,
when compared to those emanating from
France, New Zealand and California.”
Selling diversity is a tempting marketing strategy—but only as long as each
consumer can sort out producers offering
their preferred style. Otherwise, Chile’s
“blanc page” can suddenly have so many
images that the consumer turns it and
moves to the next one. n
BLANCS TO WATCH
RELIABLE BARGAINS
{$15 & UNDER}
• Anderra
• Los Vascos
• Casillero del Diablo • Montgras
• DeMartino
• Santa Ema “Amplus”
• Emiliana “Natura”
• Santa Rita "120"
• Lapostolle
• Veramonte
WORTH THE HUNT
{& THE TAG}
Casa Silva
Garces Silva
“Cool Coast” Sauvignon
Blanc 2014 ($23)
“Amayna” Barrel
Fermented 2012 ($21)
Concha y Toro
Koyle
“Terrunyo” 2011
“Costa” NV ($24)
Cono Sur
Montes “Outer
Limits” 2014 ($26)
“20 Barrels” Sauvignon
Blanc 2014 ($20)
San Pedro
Errazuriz
“1865” Sauvignon
Blanc 2014 ($17)
“Aconcague Costa”
2014 ($17)
Viña Ventisquero
($23)
“Queulat” Gran Reserva
2012 ($18)
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on
on call
@
call
brass
monkey
Meatpacking
District, NYC.
jameson:
beyond the shot
brassmonkeynyc.com
At this NYC hotspot,
I r e l an d ’ s l e a d i n g w h i s k e y
p l ay s m u l t i p l e r o l e s
By kristen bieler
irish black
sazerac
Brass Monkey,
New York City
B
efore Manhattan’s
Meatpacking
District became
the destination it is
today—before the jam-packed
Highline elevated park, the
swank hotels, the high-end
retail explosion, and the steady
stream of supermodels—there
was Brass Monkey.
As owner of the tri-level bar—
one of the longest-running in the
area—Sean Cunningham has been
in the unique position of witnessing a neighborhood transform, and
drinking patterns along with it. The
Meatpacking club scene came and
went, for example, and today there
is a thriving post-work scene, lots
more women, and a big increase in
daytime drinking. >>
WIN EFOC US
MARGIN
VS.
VOLUME
THE CLASSIC SEE-SAW
DYNAMIC OF RESTAURANT
WINE PRICING DESERVES
TO BE RE-EXAMINED
BY JEFF SIEGEL
E
very evening, is it any wonder that half the tables at
Toronto’s Le Paradis Bistro on any night have wine on
therm? Many of the diners don’t even order it. Instead, says
manager Jascha Baraness, “they ask us what they should
have. And they do that because they trust us to bring them something
that is quality and not expensive.”
And why not? The markup on the
wines on the Le Paradis list averages
two times wholesale, and the restaurant
has used that multiple for much of its
28-year existence. Yes, some wines
are marked up more than that, but Le
Paradis is famous among consumers and
the trade for its wine pricing. Many of
the wines on the list cost $40 or less,
impressive given Ontario’s taxes and
highly regulated distribution system.
Is it any wonder that half the tables at
Le Paradis on any night are drinking wine?
“Our business model is based on
volume,” says Baraness, who recently
returned to Le Paradis after a seven-year
absence. “That’s why our food is priced in
line with our wine. We want our customers
to be able to have dinner for two with a
glass of wine each for $35 a person.”
Is this almost three-decades-long
practice a fluke, or can other restaurants
change the way they price wine and
make more money in the process? Or
is traditional restaurant wine pricing,
the three to four times wholesale that
has endured for what seems like forever,
with us—for better or worse?
The answer may not be what you think.
“This is real ancient history, and
usually imposed by people who are afraid
to price more fairly because they’re
afraid of the bean counters,” says Dallas
wine consultant Diane Teitelbaum, who
has been working with restaurants and
wine pricing for more than 30 years.
“But it’s starting to move away from that
theory, and it seems that more and more
restaurants are getting the message. You
can make money charging less than
three and four times.”
PRICE HISTORY
Restaurant wine pricing has a long and
infamous history—$10 for a glass of
house wine that the distributor charges
a couple of bucks for, or $25 for a bottle
of $6 wholesale White Zinfandel. So
it shouldn’t be surprising that a CNN
survey a couple of years ago claimed
that markups of as much as 500% wasn’t
unusual, or that a Cornell University
report around the same time found that
these too-high wine prices hurt sales.
That’s because, for most restaurants,
the goal is not volume, but profit, says
James Tidwell, MS CWE, the master
sommelier and beverage manager at
the Four Seasons Resort and Club in
suburban Dallas. Use too-low pricing
over time and too many loss leaders,
he says, and the law of diminishing
returns kicks in. Low pricing becomes
permanent, and margin never returns.
Still, for every restaurant that
does wine the right way—fair pricing
combined with quality glassware and
trained employees—there are the rest,
which see wine as inventory that needs
to be expensed instead of an asset that
needs to be sold. Restaurant bosses would
never treat a chicken breast the way so
many treat a bottle of wine, because no
one would eat an overpriced piece of
poor quality chicken that has gone off.
But wine? How often does it seem that
the attitude is: “How much can we mark
that bottle up, and I don’t care if we
leave it open on the bar for two days to
get rid of the entire bottle?”
“There is sort of this infrequently
spoken gripe from consumers: ’Why
are we paying these kinds of markups?’”
says Stan Frankenthaler, chief officer of
food, beverage and strategic supply for
CraftWorks, which operates about 200
o nca l l
Interestingly, the Meatpacking
Jameson
District, like Jameson, has deep
Smash
historic roots but earned its
street-cred fashionability relatively
recently. Jameson’s modern turning
point was 1975, when parent company
Irish Distillers Ltd. opened a new
facility in Midleton, which promptly
began producing the light, easy-tolove pot-still blend that set the stage
for Irish whiskey’s comeback stateside.
The Meatpacking District turned its
Bringing Irish to the Mix
corner in the 1990s; founded in 2004,
Cunningham’s go-to pour for mixology
Brass Monkey is actually one of the
is Jameson Black Barrel, which delivers
neighborhood veterans.
“a little more intensity, slightly stronger
“We’ve seen a movement away from
flavors” to cocktails than Jameson origijust shots, particularly when it comes to
nal, he thinks.
Irish whiskey,” Cunningham observes.
Brass Monkey’s cocktail program is
While he is adamant he doesn’t want
heavily seasonal, relying on maple syrup
Brass Monkey to be a “traditional Irish
and chocolate bitters in the wintertime,
bar,” the Dublin-born Cunningham is a
citrus and ginger in warmer months. “Our
passionate ambassador for Irish whiskey.
Moscow Mule with Jameson Black Barrel
Perhaps surprisingly, a growing percentage
instead of vodka is one of our best sellers all
of the Irish whiskey at Brass Monkey
summer,” he says. “The whisky is brilliant
is consumed in cocktails. “Jameson
with the lime and ginger.” Another
Ginger is a fall-back drink for so many,”
house favorite is the Black Irish. Again,
he reports.
Jameson Black Barrel is the foundation,
and the cocktail is built up with ginger ale,
chocolate bitters and lime.
On the day we visited, Cunningham
and his team assembled a Sazerac with
Jameson Black Barrel, which showed
beautifully alongside the fragrant anise
lift of Pernod. An Irish bar it may not be,
but I challenge any other establishment
to make a more delicious Irish Coffee
than Brass Monkey’s. “The key is
dissolving the sugar in the coffee first,
so the cream won’t sink,” Cunningham
explains. “When one person orders
one, it’s like an avalanche of other
orders follow.” n
Sean Cunningham is a
Meatpacking District veteran,
having opened Brass Monkey
in 2004.
jameson cocktails
■ Irish Black Sazerac
2 oz Jameson Black Barrel
½ oz Simple Syrup
½ oz Ricard or Pernod
2 dashes Aztec Chocolate Bitters
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
Combine syrup, Jameson and bitters
with ice and stir. Strain over ice in a
rocks glass. Chill Ricard or Pernod and
float on top. Garnish with Lemon Twist
and Orange Twist.
■ Jameson Smash
1½ oz Jameson
½ oz Simple Syrup
4 Lemon wedges
5 Mint leaves
Muddle lemons, mint and simple syrup.
Add Jameson and ice and shake. Strain
over fresh ice in a rocks glass garnish
with mint leaves.
■ The Real Irish Coffee
1½ oz Jameson
1 cube Comptoir du Sud natural sugar
Real Whipped Cream
Pour boiling hot water into a glass coffee
mug and set aside for a few seconds to
heat glass. Pour out hot water (or into an
additional mug if making more than one
drink). Add Jameson and sugar and
stir until sugar is dissolved. Top
with coffee until about 1 inch from
rim of glass. With a hot spoon,
add dollop of fresh cream to float
on top of coffee and serve.
W IN EFO C US
TOP: At Le Paradis in Toronto, wines have been
priced at twice their wholesale cost for nearly three
decades, which manager Jascha Baraness says has
developed a loyal clientele who often trust the staff to
make wine choices for the table.
BOTTOM: Stan Frankenthaler believes that
consumers are more aware of markups today than
ever—and are apt to see a $50 list price for a $15
retail wine as “greedy.”
restaurants under 11 brands, including
the Old Chicago and Rock Bottom
concepts. “Are you delivering a special
experience with wine to the guest, or is
it the same experience they can have at
home? Because then they are going to
be cynical about your wine program.”
At the most basic level, cutting wine
prices sells more wine, though many
people don’t want to believe this, says
Lyle Beaugard, a certified sommelier and
wine consultant in suburban Toronto.
“Consumers know prices,” he says,
“and when you charge $50 for a $15
wine, they know it and they think
you’re too greedy. So they don’t buy
anything, and you’ve lost a sale.”
Teitelbaum’s theory: “You can sell
a $100 bottle once a day, or you can
sell $20 bottles of wine all day and all
night. It’s your choice.” Mark wine up
two-and-a-half times, she says, and
you reduce spoilage; increase turnover,
which will please the distributor who
may then be willing to offer better deals
or more interesting wine; and increase
cash flow from something that may have
barely flowed before.
separate from the rest of the restaurant.
After all, who complains about the price
of restaurant coffee?
Treat your wine
program as part of
the overall customer
experience, not
something that is
separate from the
rest of the restaurant.
TIPS TO SELL BY:
❂ Price wine using the same approach
that you price food, and not
differently just because it’s wine.
Markups like 2½ times wholesale
make more sense for most of the
wines on the list, just as a $5 appetizer
makes more sense than a $10 one.
❂ Consider pricing tiers, like 4 times
WHAT’S THE NEXT STEP?
But the discussion can become even
more sophisticated than that, says
Frankenthaler, whose company’s wine
program at its Chop House and Gordon
Biersch concepts is about more than
just margins. It’s about value vs. cost,
something that not enough operators
and owners understand. They see wine
pricing from the cost perspective, he
says, and don’t see how including value
can boost a wine program without
focusing solely on margins.
“But value doesn’t mean rock bottom
pricing,” he says. “It’s the best equation.
It’s like coffee. Why do people pay $3
for a cup of coffee when they can drink
it at home for free? You have to give
them a quality product that also gives
them something different than they can
get at home.”
In other words, treat your wine
program as part of the overall customer
experience, and not as something that is
wholesale, 2½ and 2, based on
quality and availability. If the wine is
difficult to find, for instance, or offers
exceptional value, the 4 times markup
is not outrageous. “Let the higher
priced wines make up the difference
in margin,” Frankenthaler says.
❂ Look for unique wines for the
highest pricing tier. Again, it’s a
question of availability, he says. If
you can offer someone something
they can’t get anywhere else, price is
less of a barrier to purchase.
This approach, say those who have
tried it, is more work than letting the
distributor pick the wine (while throwing
in free glasses and table toppers), but the
payoff is worth the effort. The results,
as Le Paradis’ history can attest, can be
more profitable than imaginable.
And can make customers happier
than they thought they could be. ■
B I TT ER T UR NS SW E E T
AMARO—THE OFFBEAT, ANCIENT ELIXIR—GOES MAINSTREAM
BY W. BLAKE GRAY
BLACK
ROCK CHILLER
Branca Menta, Suze,
Reposado tequila
Amor y Amargo,
NYC
Recipes on
hina’s Mao Zedong used to say that everyone
should “eat bitterness.” Mao would probably look
favorably upon a burgeoning trend in the spirits
industry: the growth of amaros*.
Amaro means “bitter” in Italian. It’s also
the name for a type of spirit usually taken at the end of a meal in Italy. Amaros are meant to help
the digestion, and perhaps that’s the reason that some taste
downright medicinal.
Amaros are old: many have formulas that haven’t changed since
the 1800s. They have always been available in the U.S., but aside
from the affection that San Francisco bartenders have for Fernet
Branca, until the last decade they reached only a very niche market.
C
Not anymore. While overall sales figures are hard to come
by, anecdotal evidence suggests a growing wave. Restaurants that
used to have one amaro now offer a list; Locanda in San Francisco
offers an amaro flight. Some restaurants, like The Partisan in
Washington, DC, carry multiple amaros on tap.
Tony Terlato, who knows something about booms in the
business (he created the behemoth that is Santa Margherita Pinot
Grigio), says that Terlato Wines International’s Amaro, Nonino
was up 33% in depletions in 2014.
Banfi Vintners, which has never imported an amaro, plans to
*NOTE: The plural form of amaro, technically, is amari; however, given the category’s
relative obscurity, we believe that “amaros” are more immediately grasped by people
accustomed to English language structure.
AMOR Y AMARGO PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA NEWMAN
BeverageMedia.com
“Mysterious yet versatile,
Amaro is a classic afterdinner digestif, but it is
also a great mixer and even
works as a shot, appealing
to the Fireball crowd.”
bring in one from Florio starting in 2015.
Reversing the usual model of imports from
Europe, Banfi has asked the producer to
make an amaro that is less sweet, specifically
for the modern American market. “It may
well be amaro’s moment,” says Joe Janish,
Banfi’s director of public relations.
The trend started in restaurants, but
it is spreading to retailers. Terlato says
38% of Amaro Nonino is now sold offpremise. “We started working with the
Nonino family in 1996. For the first six or
seven years, it was almost all on-premise,”
Terlato notes. “But now off-premise is
really taking off. People learn to drink
it in restaurants, and then they want to
have it at home.”
BOLTING THE BAR
Amaros got into restaurants through the
bar. With the explosion of craft cocktails,
bartenders discovered that the complex
formulas of amaros make them a powerful
ingredient to play with. Bartenders
brought amaros into fine restaurants, and
now sommeliers and servers are bringing
them to the dinner table.
“It’s becoming more a part of the
mainstream,” says Matthew Wohlab,
sommelier at Phoenix’s Nook restaurant,
which carries amaros on tap. “I have two
types who order a lot. If I get traditional,
actual Italians, they order amaro and
soda. And I get a lot of bar managers and
restaurant people. It’s big with them.”
Wohlab says it’s surprisingly easy to
sell a glass of amaro after dinner to people
who have never tried it. “A lot of it has to
do with price point,” he says. “If a brand
doesn’t cost a lot of money, you can sell
shots of it for $5 or $6. It becomes like a
Fireball thing. If somebody sits at my bar
and they ask, ‘What do you like?’ I can say,
‘I like amaro.’ It costs $5, it’s easy for them
to try. It’s more daunting for somebody to
order a $22 grappa.”
As a category, amaro can be challenging
because they’re all so different from each
other. For the previous generation of
drinkers, this might have been a turnoff.
However, millenials like variety, so what
was once a negative is now a marketing plus.
Retailers can consider what Bi-Rite
Market in San Francisco has done. The
ABOVE: At Amor y Amago, an intimate bar in
NYC’s East Village whose names means “love
and bitters,” diners can explore amaros via
tasting flights or creative cocktails.
BELOW: Amaro Lucano goes through a sevenstage production process; the completely
automated bottling phase can produce up to
30,000 bottles a day. Testing for quality control is
carried out in each phase.
store picks an “amaro of the month” for
an end cap display, with a card describing
its tasting notes. “You have to give
people some kind of entry point,” says
Rachel Gepner, Bi Rite’s spirits buyer.
“And people need to touch them, to read
the bottles.” She says she loves working
with amaro because “they’re very much
products of where they’re from. It’s a
different kind of terroir. It’s not just the
climate; it’s the ecosystem. The plants.
The history.”
Here are some fine amaros in the U.S.
today, with tasting notes.
Amaro Nonino is unusual in that it
doesn’t actually taste particularly bitter,
and that’s by design. “Some mixed
drinks work with Nonino that don’t
work with the herbal amaros,” Tony
Terlato says. Unlike many
amaros that start with grain
neutral spirits, it’s made
from grape brandy. It has
a pretty, fruit-and-mintdriven character, with notes
of orange peel, clove and
B IT TE R S W E E T
Friulian mountain herbs. Imported by
Terlato Wines International.
lost its importer last year and as of this
writing doesn’t have a replacement.
Santa Maria al Monte was
Averna was created by
created in 1892 and at 40%
alcohol is one of the stronger
amaros. It’s also potent in flavor:
woody, spicy and complex, with
a long finish. It really benefits
from an ice cube. Imported by
Vias Imports.
Benedictine monks who gave the
recipe to a monastery patron
in 1859. It’s one of the most
widely found amaros for good
reason: with its rich, full-bodied
character of cola, cinnamon and
citrus, it’s a great introduction
for beginners (32% ABV).
Imported by Campari America.
Suze is from France, was
invented in 1889 and was
featured in a Pablo Picasso
painting, “Verre et bouteille
de Suze.” It’s one of the most
basic amaros, but that doesn’t
mean it’s not intense: it’s a
blast of severely bitter yet floral
yellow gentian leavened with
a necessary, but still large, dose
of sugar; 20% ABV. Imported by
Domaine Select Wine Estates.
Braulio is the spirit that got
this writer into amaro in
the first place when it was
recommended by a waiter in
northern Italy. With plenty
of alpine herbs, it’s one of the
most complex and elegant (21%
ABV). Unfortunately Braulio
Ramazotti celebrates its 200th
anniversary this year. It’s a dense, slightly
sweet amaro with coffee and citrus notes.
At 30% ABV, it is popular in Milan as
a “correction” for espresso. Imported by
Evaton Inc.
Varnelli Dell’Erborista is an amaro
for your purest wine-geek clients. The
roots and herbs that flavor it come
from Sibillini mountains, as does
the honey used to sweeten it (most
amaros use sugar). It’s produced over
a wood fire and bottled unfiltered,
giving it a cloudiness and some
sediment (21% ABV). Most unique
of all, it lists all of the ingredients on
the back label. Imported by Domaine
Select Wine Estates.
Many amaros are still based on ancient, secret
recipes using on exotic (or at least obscure)
natural ingredients.
ABOVE LEFT: some of the 27 different herbs and
spices taken from four continents to make Fernet
Branca. Among the known ingredients are
gentian root, rhubarb, gum myrrh, red cinchona
bark, galanga and zedoary.
ABOVE RIGHT: Lucano, created in 1894, uses
more than 30 herbs; among them: wormwood,
clary sage, musk yarrow, holy thistle, angelica,
aloe and elderberry.
Fernet Branca is an odd standardbearer for amaros as it’s the most
extreme. It’s too potent for most
cocktails, and hard to love on
first taste. But the spirits world
is unpredictable: if Jagermeister
could be a hit, why not Fernet
Branca? In Argentina they mix
it with Coke; wait ’til Americans
discover that. Imported by
Infinium Spirits (Wilson Daniels).
Lucano was created in 1894 by a pastry
chef. Just six years later, it became the
official amaro of the last royal
family of Italy. Smooth and
initially a little sweet, its complex
herbs unfold on the finish;
28% ABV. It’s easy to imagine
sipping this and thinking
“Damn that Mussolini!”
Imported by Domaine Select
Wine Estates. ■
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Rhode Island - The Beverage Journal

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