spring / summer
Transcription
spring / summer
Spring / Summer 2015 2 3 MATERIAL AND WORK HAVE THE RIGHT, NOT TO BE DEVALUED EVERY YEAR BY NEW FASHION TRENDS. Adolf Loos Ludwig Reiter stands for evolutionary design: New things are developed on the basis of years of working with leather, the accumulated knowledge of how to craft it and product experience, not spontaneous sketches on a scrap of paper. As Adolf Loos would have it, whoever works in this way will always know how to produce suitable and practical and at the same time beautiful objects. That is why the work of an artisan is not fashionable, like that of an artist, but always contemporary. Finishing a carrying case handle on a “sewing pony” in the Ludwig Reiter leather artisan workshop. 4 5 Leather case by Ludwig Reiter: elaborately hand-sewn piece by piece. DATA & SANDWICHES In an era of progressive digitalisation, analogue media for storage and transport not only satisfy their function but also are charming expressions BRIEFCASES Hand-sewn using cowhide 4 mm thick, moisture-resistant wax finish, pockets for loose papers, files, writing utensils, business cards; diverse zippered pockets, chrome-plated brass locks. NOTEBOOK CASE K 12S-F (ABOVE) Dimensions, outer: 38.5 x 33.5 x 8.5 cm, inner: 35 x 27.5 x 6.2 cm. Colour: red. of individual style—such as these briefcases hand-sewn elaborately and carefully using the best cowhide made by Ludwig Reiter’s own trunkmakers. Nevertheless: The “elegant shabbiness” of an old leather case, appreciated by connoisseurs and desired by the envious, has to be achieved by years of use. Until then it may be a consolation that in contrast even to the best smart phone, a briefcase offers enough storage space for sandwiches, too. BRIEFCASE K 15S-S (LEFT CENTRE) Dimensions, outer: 43 x 37 x 8.5 cm, inner: 40.7 x 30 x 6.2 cm. Colour: black. BRIEFCASE K 16S-C (LEFT BELOW) Dimensions, outer: 43 x 37 x 10.5 cm; inner: 40.7 x 32.5 x 8 cm. Colour: cognac. 6 7 BUDAPESTER R 16-CPM.WG-1 WIENER R 13-BPM.RF-17 BADNER LOCHERL SHOE R 35-BPC.TG-3-S Calf’s leather, maroon, welted, toecap with rosette perforation, Viennese edging with lyre perforation, leather-lined, all-weather soles made of leather with a sewn-on rubber cover. Calf’s leather, cognac, airy perforation, welted, leather and linen (vamp) lining, leather outer soles. Shell cordovan, maroon, welted, wing-tipped with rosette perforation, Viennese edging with lyre perforation, leather-lined, leather outer soles. VALUE AND DIGNITY Aniline leather: The very material for classic, elegant, welted men’s shoes. Since the natural surface structure of this smooth leather—long since no longer treated with aniline dyes for health and environmental reasons—remains visible, only first class, flawless raw materials can be used. The final polishing–shoe paste is evenly “massaged” into the leather by hand using a completely smooth bone—contributing essentially to the appearance, value and quality of these models. Time leaves its mark on aniline leather, making the shoe ever more interesting, lending it character, uniqueness and dignity. 8 THERESIANER R 14-BPC.TG-3-LR BLUCHER R 25-CPD.TF-1 Calf’s leather, cognac, welted, smooth vamp, leather-lined, leather outer soles. Shell cordovan, dark tan, welted, leather-lined, leather outer soles. 9 Thomas Mann in Southern France: with light summer shoes and straw hat. MEDITERRANEAN CHARM Summery, light woven leather shoes are a specialty of the Viennese shoemaker’s craft, inspired by the countries of the South, that allow the foot to breathe well and are pleasant to wear, not to mention their Mediterranean charm. Ludwig Reiter presents new models featuring the “Calabrian weave”, recalling the straw hats of the KAPUZINER R 12-FCD.TF-3-S MEN’S SLATIN PASCHA R 24-FCS.TF-3-S MEN’S Woven leather (Calabrian weave), dark brown, welted, side buckle, leather/ linen lining, leather outer soles. Woven leather (Calabrian weave), black, welted, leather/ linen lining, leather outer soles. same name: fine, narrow strips of Italian calf’s leather are woven very densely and then braided at the toe. The weave is stable but also flexible, breathable, soft and adaptable. A comfort that could tempt even an otherwise very stiff Hanseatic into wearing it barefooted—somehow to flee the “death in Venice”. METTERNICH R 40-FCD.TF-5 MEN’S Woven leather (Calabrian weave), dark brown, welted, leather/ linen lining, leather outer soles. 10 KAMINSCHUH S 840-FCC LADIES’ MINI MARKET BAG N T745-FCC Woven leather (Calabrian weave), cognac, flexibly sewn, leather/ linen lining, leather outer soles. Woven leather (Calabrian weave), cognac, jacquard lining, numerous inner pockets, 32 x 17 x 25 cm. 11 “Fare una bella figura” – classic Italian elegance. AIDA D 8500-FC Italian calf, cognac, delicate Calabrian weave; lining, inner and outer soles made of breathable leather. UNA BELLA FIGURA When it comes to delicate, elegant ladies’ shoes, there is life beyond the welt, TOSCA D 8512-QD even for Ludwig Reiter: These models here were created in cooperation with Anaconda, maroon, comfortable velours inner soles, soft foot bed, leather outer soles. a family workshop in Padova. The results are the finest Viennese-Italian fashion accessories, combining classical shoemaker virtues, like high quality materials and craftsmanship combined with timeless feminine elegance. Whereas many fashion labels concentrate on “hip” and hence short-lived design, we dedicate ourselves to the obligatory qualities: beautiful, finely crafted models endowed with physical and aesthetic longevity. That is the only way to maintain “una bella figura”. IPHIGENIE D 8513-QD VIOLETTA D 8590-VS PAMINA D 8514-QD Velours, black, leather inner and outer soles, inner lining of heel made of non-slip velours (for firm fit); heel height: 85 mm. Magically light sandals made of anaconda, maroon, finely trimmed, leather lined straps, comfortable velours inner soles, soft foot bed, leather outer soles, delicate buckle. 12 13 MOCCASIN S 181-VMU (ABOVE) Even life’s informal side requires the fitting shoe. Velours, umbra, flexibly-sewn, leather outer soles, leather-lined, outwardly turned open-edge moccasin seam on the vamp, inverted pleat on the heel, instep strap. TASSEL LOAFER R 42-BCS.TF-3-S (LEFT ABOVE) INDIAN ANCESTORS Box calf, black, welted, leather-lined, double-seam on the vamp. The half-concealed leather ribbon threaded around the shoe opening ends on the vamp with the “tassel” that gives the shoe its name. Whoever chooses informal shoe models like these is usually a person who is not tied up. Despite the absence of laces, these loafers offer a good fit and extraordinary comfort because of the details with which they have been crafted—moccasin seam on the vamp, inverted heel pleat, fitting instep strap, leather lining: whatever derives from beautifully soft Indian moccasins can only PENNY LOAFER R 41-BAK.TF-3-S (LEFT CENTRE) Aniline box, chestnut, welted, leather lined, striking cord seam on the vamp, inverted pleat on the heel, instep strap. be comfortable. Today’s man wears the loafer on many informal occasions, such MOCCASIN S 881-VRN LADIES’ (BELOW LEFT) as casual Friday, in the home office and off-hours, whereby the variety of models Velours, navy, flexibly stitched, soft leather outer soles, leather lined, reversed, open-edged, moccasin seam on the vamp, inverted heel pleat, instep strap. allows a step with dignified elegance or athletic dynamism. 14 15 S 761-VTH LADIES’ Velours, colour: heaven. MAGHREBINER First-class handcrafted sandals, two ply, throughstitched, flexible soles made of vegetable tanned leather, bottoms waxed and polished for water resistance. Models for ladies and gentlemen. Dual ply, flexible leather soles made of vegetable tanned cowhide. MODERN CLASSICS Helena, Penelope, and Prometheus: scarcely a famous figure in classical antiquity whose destiny was not fulfilled in sandals. But even those living in modern times S 761-VTO LADIES‘ S 761/261-VTL LADIES‘/MENS‘ appreciate the advantages of first-class handcrafted leather sandals on summer days: Velours, colour: ocra. Velours, colour: pistachio. S 761/261-FCC LADIES‘/MENS‘ S 761/261-QAD LADIES‘/MENS‘ Woven leather, colour: cognac. Anaconda, colour: dark brown. light and comfortable to wear—above all thanks to pure vegetable tanned outer soles made of cowhide, mechanically milled intensively to make them soft and flexible despite their thickness and robust quality. Add to that: crossed straps in various types of leather, for an easy getaway—especially if one is not preoccupied with being kidnapped, avoiding annoying admirers, or stealing fire from the gods. 16 17 ANDALUSIAN T 500-VTT ESPADRILLE T 501-VTH Slipper, velours, colour: heaven. Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: antelope. LACES OR SLIPPERS? ESPADRILLE & ANDALUSIAN Along its 700-year route from the simple work shoe of peasants in Spain and Southern France, espadrilles and andalusians have conquered a firm place in the summer leisure wardrobe without losing their original charm. And no later than 1955, when the elegant Cary Grant silently slithered over the roofs of Nice in Hitchcock’s thriller “To Catch a Thief”, such models became honourable even among style-conscious fashionistas. The only ESPADRILLE T 501-VTL Slipper, velours, colour: pistachio. question remains: lace-up or slip on? ANDALUSIAN T 500-VTO ESPADRILLE T 501-VRN Slipper, velours, colour: navy. Beautifully soft velours leather, trimmed with jute ribbon, breathable leather lining, crêpe outer soles. The soles are made of genuine vulcanised rubber to make them both durable and soft as well as keeping them elastic. These cushioning qualities as well as the traction contribute essentially to their extraordinary comfort. ESPADRILLE T 501-VTO Slipper, velours, colour: ocra. Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: ocra. 18 19 TRAINER Comfortable, leisurely retro-sport shoe model, cushioned heels, reinforced toecap, sidewall sewn double stripes, leather-lined, original army training soles. TRAINER T 512-VRN-VTH Velours, colour: navy/ heaven. JOGGING T 532-NCP-VTQ.A Sport nappa calf, colour: pearl white, velours stripes: quartz. TRAINER T 512-VTL-VTH TRAINER T 512-NCP-VTO.C Velours, colour: pistachio/ heaven. Sport nappa calf, colour: pearl white, velours stripes: ocra. MARCH READY The trainers and jogging shoes originated in the athletic shoes issued to the Austrian and German armies and were refined by Ludwig Reiter, triggering JOGGING Dynamically cut athletic and recreational shoe, reinforced toecap, heel and sidewalls, leather-lined, original German Bundeswehr specification rubberspiked soles for traction. JOGGING T 532-VRN.A Velours, colour: navy. after this civilising process, a retro-sport shoe wave that has not subsided since. Thanks to their outstanding comfort from the very first and many details added to enhance it—cushioning soles and soft, breathable leather— these models perform well not only in daily wear and during summer ball sports, like ping pong, golf and boules, they also prove entirely ready for the vacation march to favoured but no less strenuous sightseeing and shopping campaigns. 20 JOGGING T 532-VTO.A Velours, colour: ocra. 21 SKIPPER T 565-VTO, LADIES’ Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: ocra. AYE-AYE, CAPTAIN! An aesthetically stylish and functionally safe boarding is assured with these CAPRI T 563-QAD Slipper, anaconda, colour: dark brown. summary light recreational models, inspired by deck shoes, with their sporty form, soft leather and sidewall stitched soles, with the shaft sewn using Sacchetto technique and firmly glued. So one always stands steady, not only aboard the boat—like wind force 8 or roaring deck parties—but also a good form for landing. Good news for landlubbers: for Skipper and Capri, no sailing license is needed. CAPRI & SKIPPER Sport and boat shoes, sidewall stitched, non-slip, white— and hence “scuff free” deck soles made of genuine natural rubber; leather lined. SKIPPER T 565-VTH, LADIES’ CAPRI T 563-VTQ Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: heaven. Slipper, velours, colour: quartz. 22 23 Loyal companion in velvety velours. CELEBRITY BAG N T756-VTT PROMENADE N T721-VTO Velours, adjustable handle length, buckle closure, 2 inner pockets with zippers, jacquard lining, very spacious: 40 x 30 x 13 cm, colour: antelope. Velours, handle made of braided buffalo leather, zipper, inner pocket, jacquard lining, 30 x 14 x 21 cm, colour: Ocra. A GIRL‘S BEST FRIEND Ludwig Reiter uses high quality, thoroughly dyed calf’s leather, with a ground surface for these velours bags. Thus the leather acquires its characteristic velvety, even and especially fine structure, and its pleasantly warm, soft touch. Velvety bags like these are serious competition for the role of a preferred loyal companion, even for a handsome gentleman, offer an easy alternative to any ever so cute little puppy, and challenge even Marilyn Monroe’s claim whereby supposedly “Diamonds” would be “a girl’s best friend”. 24 HUNTING POUCH N T693-VRN SIESTA BAG N T746-VTQ Velours, long shoulder strap, outer pocket with zipper, magnet closure, jacquard lining, 34 x 5 x 26 cm, colour: navy. Velours, handle made of braided buffalo leather, magnet closure, 2 inner pockets with zippers, jacquard lining, 32 x 17 x 26 cm, colour: quartz. 25 AUSTRIA Vienna, Mölkersteig 1, +43/1 533 420 422 Vienna, Führichgasse 6, +43/1 512 61 46 Vienna, Wiedner Hauptstraße 41, +43/1 505 82 58 Vienna, Weingartenallee 2, Fabriksverkauf, +43/1 2559 300 61 Salzburg, Goldgasse 3, +43/662 870 580 Graz, Sackstraße 12, +43/316 825 416 Kitzbühel, Bichlstraße 26, +43/5356 65 004 GERMANY Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 50, +49/30 886 81 776 Hamburg, Hohe Bleichen 19, +49/40 357 12 930 Düsseldorf, Königsallee 6-8, +49/211 323 91 10 Frankfurt, Rathenauplatz 1, +49/69 282 066 Munich, Burgstraße 8, +49/89 943 01 370 Stuttgart, Calwer Straße 27, +49/711 722 318 38 SWITZERLAND Zürich, Wühre 9, +41/43 497 24 94 GREAT BRITAIN London, 6 Brook Street, +44/20 3302 3421 26 Kressl/Emerschitz; Photographs: G. Kressl; other: http://commons.wikimedia.org (Photograph: Thomas Mann). LUDWIG REITER SHOPS w w w. l u d w i g - r e i t e r . c o m