spring / summer

Transcription

spring / summer
Spring / Summer
2015
2
3
MATERIAL AND WORK HAVE THE RIGHT,
NOT TO BE DEVALUED EVERY YEAR BY
NEW FASHION TRENDS.
Adolf Loos
Ludwig Reiter stands for evolutionary design: New things are
developed on the basis of years of working with leather, the
accumulated knowledge of how to craft it and product
experience, not spontaneous sketches on a scrap of paper.
As Adolf Loos would have it, whoever works in this way will
always know how to produce suitable and practical and at the
same time beautiful objects. That is why the work of an
artisan is not fashionable, like that of an artist, but always
contemporary.
Finishing a carrying case handle on a “sewing pony” in the Ludwig Reiter leather artisan workshop.
4
5
Leather case by Ludwig Reiter: elaborately hand-sewn piece by piece.
DATA & SANDWICHES
In an era of progressive digitalisation, analogue media for storage and
transport not only satisfy their function but also are charming expressions
BRIEFCASES
Hand-sewn using cowhide 4 mm thick,
moisture-resistant wax finish, pockets for loose papers,
files, writing utensils, business cards; diverse zippered
pockets, chrome-plated brass locks.
NOTEBOOK CASE K 12S-F (ABOVE)
Dimensions, outer: 38.5 x 33.5 x 8.5 cm,
inner: 35 x 27.5 x 6.2 cm. Colour: red.
of individual style—such as these briefcases hand-sewn elaborately and
carefully using the best cowhide made by Ludwig Reiter’s own trunkmakers. Nevertheless: The “elegant shabbiness” of an old leather case,
appreciated by connoisseurs and desired by the envious, has to be
achieved by years of use. Until then it may be a consolation that in contrast
even to the best smart phone, a briefcase offers enough storage space
for sandwiches, too.
BRIEFCASE K 15S-S (LEFT CENTRE)
Dimensions, outer: 43 x 37 x 8.5 cm,
inner: 40.7 x 30 x 6.2 cm. Colour: black.
BRIEFCASE K 16S-C (LEFT BELOW)
Dimensions, outer: 43 x 37 x 10.5 cm;
inner: 40.7 x 32.5 x 8 cm. Colour: cognac.
6
7
BUDAPESTER R 16-CPM.WG-1
WIENER R 13-BPM.RF-17
BADNER LOCHERL SHOE R 35-BPC.TG-3-S
Calf’s leather, maroon, welted, toecap with
rosette perforation, Viennese edging with
lyre perforation, leather-lined, all-weather
soles made of leather with a sewn-on
rubber cover.
Calf’s leather, cognac, airy perforation, welted,
leather and linen (vamp) lining, leather outer soles.
Shell cordovan, maroon, welted, wing-tipped with rosette
perforation, Viennese edging with lyre perforation, leather-lined,
leather outer soles.
VALUE AND DIGNITY
Aniline leather: The very material for classic, elegant, welted men’s shoes. Since
the natural surface structure of this smooth leather—long since no longer treated
with aniline dyes for health and environmental reasons—remains visible, only first
class, flawless raw materials can be used. The final polishing–shoe paste is
evenly “massaged” into the leather by hand using a completely smooth
bone—contributing essentially to the appearance, value and quality of these
models. Time leaves its mark on aniline leather, making the shoe ever more
interesting, lending it character, uniqueness and dignity.
8
THERESIANER R 14-BPC.TG-3-LR
BLUCHER R 25-CPD.TF-1
Calf’s leather, cognac, welted, smooth vamp,
leather-lined, leather outer soles.
Shell cordovan, dark tan, welted,
leather-lined, leather outer soles.
9
Thomas Mann in Southern France: with light summer shoes and straw hat.
MEDITERRANEAN CHARM
Summery, light woven leather shoes are a specialty of the Viennese shoemaker’s
craft, inspired by the countries of the South, that allow the foot to breathe well and
are pleasant to wear, not to mention their Mediterranean charm. Ludwig Reiter
presents new models featuring the “Calabrian weave”, recalling the straw hats of the
KAPUZINER R 12-FCD.TF-3-S MEN’S
SLATIN PASCHA R 24-FCS.TF-3-S MEN’S
Woven leather (Calabrian weave), dark
brown, welted, side buckle, leather/ linen
lining, leather outer soles.
Woven leather (Calabrian weave), black, welted,
leather/ linen lining, leather outer soles.
same name: fine, narrow strips of Italian calf’s leather are woven very densely and
then braided at the toe. The weave is stable but also flexible, breathable, soft and
adaptable. A comfort that could tempt even an otherwise very stiff Hanseatic into
wearing it barefooted—somehow to flee the “death in Venice”.
METTERNICH R 40-FCD.TF-5 MEN’S
Woven leather (Calabrian weave), dark brown, welted,
leather/ linen lining, leather outer soles.
10
KAMINSCHUH S 840-FCC LADIES’
MINI MARKET BAG N T745-FCC
Woven leather (Calabrian weave), cognac,
flexibly sewn, leather/ linen lining, leather
outer soles.
Woven leather (Calabrian weave), cognac,
jacquard lining, numerous inner pockets,
32 x 17 x 25 cm.
11
“Fare una bella figura” – classic Italian elegance.
AIDA D 8500-FC
Italian calf, cognac, delicate Calabrian
weave; lining, inner and outer soles
made of breathable leather.
UNA BELLA FIGURA
When it comes to delicate, elegant ladies’ shoes, there is life beyond the welt,
TOSCA D 8512-QD
even for Ludwig Reiter: These models here were created in cooperation with
Anaconda, maroon, comfortable velours
inner soles, soft foot bed, leather outer
soles.
a family workshop in Padova. The results are the finest Viennese-Italian fashion
accessories, combining classical shoemaker virtues, like high quality materials and
craftsmanship combined with timeless feminine elegance. Whereas many fashion
labels concentrate on “hip” and hence short-lived design, we dedicate ourselves
to the obligatory qualities: beautiful, finely crafted models endowed with physical
and aesthetic longevity. That is the only way to maintain “una bella figura”.
IPHIGENIE D 8513-QD
VIOLETTA D 8590-VS
PAMINA D 8514-QD
Velours, black, leather inner and outer soles, inner lining of heel made of
non-slip velours (for firm fit); heel height: 85 mm.
Magically light sandals made of anaconda, maroon, finely trimmed, leather
lined straps, comfortable velours inner soles, soft foot bed, leather outer
soles, delicate buckle.
12
13
MOCCASIN S 181-VMU (ABOVE)
Even life’s informal side requires the fitting shoe.
Velours, umbra, flexibly-sewn, leather outer soles,
leather-lined, outwardly turned open-edge moccasin
seam on the vamp, inverted pleat on the heel,
instep strap.
TASSEL LOAFER R 42-BCS.TF-3-S (LEFT ABOVE)
INDIAN ANCESTORS
Box calf, black, welted, leather-lined, double-seam on
the vamp. The half-concealed leather ribbon threaded
around the shoe opening ends on the vamp with the
“tassel” that gives the shoe its name.
Whoever chooses informal shoe models like these is usually a person who is
not tied up. Despite the absence of laces, these loafers offer a good fit and
extraordinary comfort because of the details with which they have been
crafted—moccasin seam on the vamp, inverted heel pleat, fitting instep strap,
leather lining: whatever derives from beautifully soft Indian moccasins can only
PENNY LOAFER R 41-BAK.TF-3-S (LEFT CENTRE)
Aniline box, chestnut, welted, leather lined, striking
cord seam on the vamp, inverted pleat on the heel,
instep strap.
be comfortable. Today’s man wears the loafer on many informal occasions, such
MOCCASIN S 881-VRN LADIES’ (BELOW LEFT)
as casual Friday, in the home office and off-hours, whereby the variety of models
Velours, navy, flexibly stitched, soft leather outer soles,
leather lined, reversed, open-edged, moccasin seam on
the vamp, inverted heel pleat, instep strap.
allows a step with dignified elegance or athletic dynamism.
14
15
S 761-VTH LADIES’
Velours, colour: heaven.
MAGHREBINER
First-class handcrafted sandals, two ply, throughstitched, flexible soles made of vegetable tanned
leather, bottoms waxed and polished for water
resistance. Models for ladies and gentlemen.
Dual ply, flexible leather soles made of vegetable tanned cowhide.
MODERN CLASSICS
Helena, Penelope, and Prometheus: scarcely a famous figure in classical antiquity
whose destiny was not fulfilled in sandals. But even those living in modern times
S 761-VTO LADIES‘
S 761/261-VTL LADIES‘/MENS‘
appreciate the advantages of first-class handcrafted leather sandals on summer days:
Velours, colour: ocra.
Velours, colour: pistachio.
S 761/261-FCC LADIES‘/MENS‘
S 761/261-QAD LADIES‘/MENS‘
Woven leather, colour: cognac.
Anaconda, colour: dark brown.
light and comfortable to wear—above all thanks to pure vegetable tanned outer soles
made of cowhide, mechanically milled intensively to make them soft and flexible
despite their thickness and robust quality. Add to that: crossed straps in various types
of leather, for an easy getaway—especially if one is not preoccupied with being kidnapped, avoiding annoying admirers, or stealing fire from the gods.
16
17
ANDALUSIAN T 500-VTT
ESPADRILLE T 501-VTH
Slipper, velours, colour: heaven.
Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: antelope.
LACES OR SLIPPERS?
ESPADRILLE &
ANDALUSIAN
Along its 700-year route from the simple work shoe of peasants in Spain
and Southern France, espadrilles and andalusians have conquered a firm
place in the summer leisure wardrobe without losing their original charm.
And no later than 1955, when the elegant Cary Grant silently slithered over
the roofs of Nice in Hitchcock’s thriller “To Catch a Thief”, such models
became honourable even among style-conscious fashionistas. The only
ESPADRILLE T 501-VTL
Slipper, velours, colour: pistachio.
question remains: lace-up or slip on?
ANDALUSIAN T 500-VTO
ESPADRILLE T 501-VRN
Slipper, velours, colour: navy.
Beautifully soft velours leather, trimmed with jute
ribbon, breathable leather lining, crêpe outer soles.
The soles are made of genuine vulcanised rubber to
make them both durable and soft as well as keeping
them elastic. These cushioning qualities as well as the
traction contribute essentially to their extraordinary
comfort.
ESPADRILLE T 501-VTO
Slipper, velours, colour: ocra.
Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: ocra.
18
19
TRAINER
Comfortable, leisurely retro-sport shoe model,
cushioned heels, reinforced toecap, sidewall sewn
double stripes, leather-lined, original army training
soles.
TRAINER T 512-VRN-VTH
Velours, colour: navy/ heaven.
JOGGING T 532-NCP-VTQ.A
Sport nappa calf, colour: pearl white,
velours stripes: quartz.
TRAINER T 512-VTL-VTH
TRAINER T 512-NCP-VTO.C
Velours, colour: pistachio/ heaven.
Sport nappa calf, colour: pearl white,
velours stripes: ocra.
MARCH READY
The trainers and jogging shoes originated in the athletic shoes issued to the
Austrian and German armies and were refined by Ludwig Reiter, triggering
JOGGING
Dynamically cut athletic and recreational shoe,
reinforced toecap, heel and sidewalls, leather-lined,
original German Bundeswehr specification rubberspiked soles for traction.
JOGGING T 532-VRN.A
Velours, colour: navy.
after this civilising process, a retro-sport shoe wave that has not subsided
since. Thanks to their outstanding comfort from the very first and many
details added to enhance it—cushioning soles and soft, breathable leather—
these models perform well not only in daily wear and during summer ball
sports, like ping pong, golf and boules, they also prove entirely ready for
the vacation march to favoured but no less strenuous sightseeing and
shopping campaigns.
20
JOGGING T 532-VTO.A
Velours, colour: ocra.
21
SKIPPER T 565-VTO, LADIES’
Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: ocra.
AYE-AYE, CAPTAIN!
An aesthetically stylish and functionally safe boarding is assured with these
CAPRI T 563-QAD
Slipper, anaconda, colour: dark brown.
summary light recreational models, inspired by deck shoes, with their sporty form,
soft leather and sidewall stitched soles, with the shaft sewn using Sacchetto
technique and firmly glued. So one always stands steady, not only aboard the
boat—like wind force 8 or roaring deck parties—but also a good form for landing.
Good news for landlubbers: for Skipper and Capri, no sailing license is needed.
CAPRI & SKIPPER
Sport and boat shoes, sidewall stitched, non-slip, white—
and hence “scuff free” deck soles made of genuine natural
rubber; leather lined.
SKIPPER T 565-VTH, LADIES’
CAPRI T 563-VTQ
Lace-up shoe, velours, colour: heaven.
Slipper, velours, colour: quartz.
22
23
Loyal companion in velvety velours.
CELEBRITY BAG N T756-VTT
PROMENADE N T721-VTO
Velours, adjustable handle length, buckle
closure, 2 inner pockets with zippers, jacquard
lining, very spacious: 40 x 30 x 13 cm, colour:
antelope.
Velours, handle made of braided buffalo
leather, zipper, inner pocket, jacquard lining,
30 x 14 x 21 cm, colour: Ocra.
A GIRL‘S BEST FRIEND
Ludwig Reiter uses high quality, thoroughly dyed calf’s leather, with a ground
surface for these velours bags. Thus the leather acquires its characteristic velvety,
even and especially fine structure, and its pleasantly warm, soft touch. Velvety
bags like these are serious competition for the role of a preferred loyal
companion, even for a handsome gentleman, offer an easy alternative to any ever
so cute little puppy, and challenge even Marilyn Monroe’s claim whereby
supposedly “Diamonds” would be “a girl’s best friend”.
24
HUNTING POUCH N T693-VRN
SIESTA BAG N T746-VTQ
Velours, long shoulder strap, outer pocket
with zipper, magnet closure, jacquard
lining, 34 x 5 x 26 cm, colour: navy.
Velours, handle made of braided buffalo
leather, magnet closure, 2 inner pockets with
zippers, jacquard lining, 32 x 17 x 26 cm,
colour: quartz.
25
AUSTRIA
Vienna, Mölkersteig 1, +43/1 533 420 422
Vienna, Führichgasse 6, +43/1 512 61 46
Vienna, Wiedner Hauptstraße 41, +43/1 505 82 58
Vienna, Weingartenallee 2, Fabriksverkauf, +43/1 2559 300 61
Salzburg, Goldgasse 3, +43/662 870 580
Graz, Sackstraße 12, +43/316 825 416
Kitzbühel, Bichlstraße 26, +43/5356 65 004
GERMANY
Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 50, +49/30 886 81 776
Hamburg, Hohe Bleichen 19, +49/40 357 12 930
Düsseldorf, Königsallee 6-8, +49/211 323 91 10
Frankfurt, Rathenauplatz 1, +49/69 282 066
Munich, Burgstraße 8, +49/89 943 01 370
Stuttgart, Calwer Straße 27, +49/711 722 318 38
SWITZERLAND
Zürich, Wühre 9, +41/43 497 24 94
GREAT BRITAIN
London, 6 Brook Street, +44/20 3302 3421
26
Kressl/Emerschitz; Photographs: G. Kressl; other: http://commons.wikimedia.org (Photograph: Thomas Mann).
LUDWIG REITER
SHOPS
w w w. l u d w i g - r e i t e r . c o m