Topical Skin Rejuvenation Treatments

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Intelligent anti-aging skin care based on independent research
Lose wrinkles, keep your bank account!
Skin Care 101
You are here: Anti-Aging Skin Treatments > Topical Actives
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There are hundreds if not thousands topical skin rejuvenation treatments on the
market, from wrinkle creams to eye serums to lifting gels. If all of them worked as
advertised, anyone with a bit of extra cash could have a skin of a fifteen year
old. In reality, relatively few topical agents are clinically proven to improve
wrinkles and other signs of skin aging. Others are supported by some positive
evidence but not enough to confidently say that they work. Numerous others
aren't backed by any reliable science at all and can even be harmful. As you
may know, cosmetics is not regulated by the FDA. Hence it is largely up to the
manufacturer's conscience not only to ensure effectiveness but safety as well.
Conversely, it is up to the consumer to buy wisely.
Clinically Proven Effective
Tretinoin (Retin A, Renova)
Retinoids
Alpha-hydroxy Acids
Estrogens
Vitamin C
Vitamin C derivatives
Anhydrous vitamin C combo
Vitamin C + E + ferulic acid
Possibly Effective but Need More Research
Retinaldehyde
Retinol / retinyl palmitate
Copper peptides
Alpha lipoic acid
Coenzyme Q10
Idebenone
Lycopene
DMAE
Green tea
White tea
MMP inhibitors
Furfuryladenine (Kinetin)
Progesterone
Niacinamide
Oat beta-glucan
Hyaluronic acid
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)
Palmitoyl oligopeptide / tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000)
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Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline)
Ethocyn
Resveratol / Sirtuins
Beta-hydroxy acids
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Reducing skin wrinkles with tretinoin (Retin A, Renova)
Skin Care 101
You are here: Anti-Aging Skin Treatments > Topical Actives >
Skin Care Basics
Skin Protection
Skin Biology
Reducing skin wrinkles with tretinoin (Retin A,
Renova)
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Retin A and Renova are the best-known brands of tretinoin (a short for transretinoic acid), an active metabolite of substance related to but distinct from
vitamin A. To be precise, tretinoin is a biologically active metabolite of vitamin A.
Tretinoin produces multiple effects in the skin. It works by triggering molecular
switches in skin cells called retinoid receptors. These switches affect many
intracellular processes including cell growth and differentiation, synthesis of
proteins (including collagen and elastin), sebum production, and possibly even
the cell's lifespan clock (telomeres). Furthermore, tretinoin indirectly inhibits
matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), the enzymes that break down collagen and
elastin, the skin's key structural proteins. MMP become overactive as we age
and contribute to wrinkles and sagging skin. Overall, the biochemical effects of
tretinoin are numerous and only some are well researched.
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Topical tretinoin and its analogs (collectively called retinoids) are among the very
few substances whose anti-aging effects on the skin have been documented in
many well-designed studies of varying duration. Topical tretinoin was found to
reduce fine wrinkles and skin roughness, increase epidermal thickness and
stimulate deposition of collagen. Typical strength of topical tretinoin creams is
0.025 - 0.1 percent. Side effects are not uncommon and include skin-irritation,
dryness, peeling and sun sensitivity. With tretinoin, more is not necessarily better.
Studies indicate that 0.025 percent tretinoin may be almost as effective as 0.05
or 0.1 percent, but with lower incidence of skin irritation. According to the
studies, improvement on tretinoin may continue for up to a year of continued
use.
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The first tretinoin brand to appear on the market was Retin A, initially developed
to treat acne and later adopted as an anti-wrinkle product. Later, other
formulations were developed in an attempt to reduce skin irritation and other side
effects. Those included Renova (tretinoin in a highly emollient base to reduce
dryness), Retin A Micro (slow-release tretinoin encapsulated in microscopic
particles to reduce skin irritation) and others. At present, all topical tretinoin
brands are sold by prescription. Users should watch out for the side effects even
with supposedly less irritating formulations. If persistent, the side effects of
tretinoin may lead to skin damage and accelerated aging, i.e. the result opposite
to the goal of the treatment. Fortunately, the irritation and other side effects can
in most cases be avoided or minimized with proper care. (See Skin Rejuvenation
Infopack for practical recommendations on how to avoid the side effects of
tretinoin.)
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Retinoids in skin care. Advancing beyond tretinoin
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Tretinoin a.k.a. trans-retinoic acid (the active ingredient in such popular products
as Retin A and Renova) is one of the very few agents whose skin rejuvenation
effects have been documented in many well-designed studies. Tretinoin works by
triggering molecular switches in skin cells called retinoid receptors. These
switches affect many intracellular processes including cell growth and
differentiation, synthesis and breakdown of proteins (including collagen and
elastin), sebum production, and possibly even the cell's lifespan clock
(telomeres).
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However, tretinoin is not the only substance capable of activating retinoid
receptors. In fact, a number of related but distinct agents (collectively called
retinoids) can do that. The success of tretinoin in dermatology and skin care
prompted researchers to study other retinoids as a potential treatment for
problems ranging from wrinkles, to acne, to age spots.
Why spend time and money looking for other retinoids if we already have
tretinoin? Isn't this just another case of the questionable "me-too" drug strategy
when pharmaceutical companies try to patent similar drugs with no significant
additional benefit? Well, not quite. The "me-too" drugs are redundant when the
original drug highly selectively hits a single target, such as a receptor or enzyme,
and is very safe. In such a case, creating more drugs that hit the same target is
more beneficial to the patent holder than the consumer. For instance,
omeprazole (Prilosec), a very successful stomach acid suppressor, has been
followed by half a dozen copy cats (Prevacid, Aciphex, Nexium and others) doing
exactly the same thing in exactly the same way.
The situation with tretinoin is different for two reasons. First, there are several
kinds of retinoid receptors, each affecting different cellular processes. Some
retinoids hit a particular type(s) of the receptors harder than the other types. As
a result, the net effect of different retinoids on the cells may vary significantly
from one retinoid to the next. Second, tretinoin sometimes causes significant side
effects, such as skin dryness and irritation, so it does make sense to look for its
gentler cousins. To that end, the goal of retinoid research in dermatology has
been to find retinoids that are safer than tretinoin and/or are more effective in
skin rejuvenation or treatment of acne and other conditions.
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So far the there has been some progress, albeit not as dramatic as anticipated.
Only two new retinoids, tazarotene (Tazorac) and adapalene (Differin), have
gained a broad clinical acceptance. Based on several studies, tazarotene
appears to be at least as effective as tretinoin against wrinkles. Furthermore, in
one study 0.1% tazarotene reduced wrinkles faster and more significantly then
0.05% tretinoin over a 24-week period. Side-effect were similar for both agents,
except tazarotene was more likely to cause a burning sensation during the first
week (but not thereafter). The study would have been more useful if it lasted
longer and also included 0.1% tretinoin for comparison. Further research is
needed to determine if tazarotene may be a better wrinkle fighter than tretinoin
over the long term. Adapalene (Differin) is a new retinoid that has become a
widely used alternative to tretinoin as an acne treatment - mainly because it is
somewhat less irritating. While adapalene clearly has some anti-wrinkle
properties, it remains to be determined whether it is as good a wrinkle-fighter as
tretinoin or tazarotene.
Another notable retinoid is isotretinoin, which is structurally close but distinct from
tretinoin. Oral isotretinoin (Accutane) has been used to treat acne for decades. It
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/retinoids.html[24/01/2012 22:05:58]
is very effective but may cause serious side effects and, therefore, is typically
reserved only for severe cystic acne. Recent research indicates that topical
isotretinoin may be useful for both acne and skin rejuvenation. Topical
isotretinoin has far less side effects than its oral form and may be even less
irritating than topical tretinoin. In one small human study, topical isotretinoin was
as effective as tretinoin for acne but caused less skin irritation (each agent was
applied as 0.05% gel). Another study showed that 0.05% topical isotretinoin (with
sunscreen) improved fine lines and wrinkles after 6 month. More research is
needed to investigate the benefits and risks of topical isotretinoin vs other
retinoids. In particular, it would be useful to compare topical isotretinoin and
tretinoin in regard to skin rejuvenation.
A word about vitamin A. Some experts (usually non-scientists) include various
forms of vitamin A (such as retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl palmitate) among
retinoids. Physiologically speaking, vitamin A is not a retinoid because it does
not interact directly with retinoid receptors. Cells have to first convert vitamin A to
retinoic acid (i.e. to tretinoin or other retinoid). The rate of such conversion is low
and varies significantly among individuals. What does this mean in practice? Low
strength topical vitamin A formulations are usually ineffective - not enough of
vitamin A is converted into a retinoid. Stabilized, high strength topical vitamin A
may be effective, but due to variability in conversion rates the results are far less
consistent than with true retinoids and the side effects may be almost as
significant. For people who cannot tolerate or cannot afford retinoids, a wellselected vitamin A formulation may be worth a try (see our articles on
retinaldehyde and retinol). Otherwise, a retinoid is likely to deliver a better
performance.
Bottom line
As of the time of this writing, tretinoin remains the primary wrinkle-fighting
retinoid. However, due to individual variability some people may have better
overall results with other retinoids. It is also worthwhile to keep an eye on the
further advances in the retinoid research.
Do not forget that retinoids have a flip side. Overuse or misuse can lead to
chronic skin irritation, dryness and other problems, leaving you skin in the worse
condition than before the treatment. For practical details on the optimal use of
retinoids, including the ways to avoid skin-damaging irritation, see Skin
Rejuvenation Infopack.
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Alpha-hydroxy acids and skin rejuvenation
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Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are a staple of numerous skin care product lines.
They are occasionally touted as a new treatment, but in fact their cosmetic use
has started several decades ago. AHA are a group of structurally related organic
acids found in natural sources or synthesized in the laboratory.
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Before we go any further, it should be noted that skincare products based on
alpha hydroxy acids are often ridiculously overpriced. Alpha hydroxy acids are
very simple, inexpensive chemicals. The cost of alpha hydroxy acids contained in
a typical jar of alpha hydroxy acids-based cosmetics is a fraction of a dollar. The
effectiveness of an alpha hydroxy acids skincare product depends mainly of the
concentration of alpha hydroxy acids rather than accompanying inactive
ingredients with scientific-sounding names. Provided alpha hydroxy acids
concentrations are the same, an affordable department store brand would bring
the same skin benefits as its overpriced counterparts.
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There are two different ways in which alpha hydroxy acids are commonly used:
(1) high strength alpha hydroxy acids are used by dermatologists in chemical
peels. Several studies convincingly demonstrated that such peels can reverse
some signs of skin aging. In a study at the University of Los Angeles, California,
forty five volunteers were treated with 50 percent glycolic acid or vehicle alone.
The treatment was applied to one side of the face, forearms and hands for 5
minutes once weekly for 4 weeks. The researchers concluded that "application of
50 percent glycolic acid peels improves mild photo aging [aging due to sun
damage] of the skin." Another study conducted at Hahnemann University School
of Medicine, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, tested a lotion containing 25 percent of
glycolic, lactic or citric acid against a placebo lotion. The treatment was
continued for 6 month. Alpha hydroxy acids treatment lead to a 25 percent
increase in skin thickness, improved quality of elastic fibers and increased
density of collagen. The researches concluded that alpha hydroxy acids
"produced a significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photo
aging."
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Peels with high strength alpha hydroxy acids (over 15%) should not be done
without the supervision of a dermatologist.
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These days the most common use of alpha hydroxy acids is in OTC skincare
products formulated for regular use. Most such products contain relatively low
concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids, usually 5-15 percent. Benefits of these
skincare products are less clear. Products with alpha hydroxy acids
concentration below 8% appear to be of no benefit. Most studies of 8 - 15%
alpha hydroxy acids report very modest improvements in wrinkles and skin
smoothness. Concentrations at the high end of this range might be a little more
effective but are more likely to cause irritation.
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Estrogens: The Skin Connection
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It is often noticed that after the menopause women begin to age faster. Wrinkles
spread rapidly, skin quickly loses elasticity and smoothness. To a large degree
this seems to result from the decline in estrogen levels after the menopause. Of
all hormones that decline with age, estrogens have the most dramatic effect on
the skin. Estrogens are known to protect women from heart disease, and now it
seems that they also slow down skin aging. Several studies indicate that
postmenopausal women on estrogen replacement therapy develop less wrinkles
and have better skin texture and elasticity than those not taking estrogens.
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While going on estrogen replacement is a complex decision requiring the
analysis of one's medical history, women after menopause can get the skin
benefits of estrogen with topical preparations. Dr. Schmidt and colleagues, from
the University of Vienna Medical School, Austria, studied the effects of topical
estrogen treatment with 0.01% estradiol or 0.3% estriol in 59 postmenopausal
women. After 6 month of treatment, a marked improvement in skin elasticity and
firmness was noted; wrinkle depth and pore size decreased by over sixty percent
in both estradiol and estriol groups. Skin moisture and collagen synthesis
increased significantly.
Many experts believe that estrogen creams could also improve the signs of aging
in premenopausal women and in men although further studies are needed to
confirm that. The recommendations regarding the use of estrogen creams to
treat wrinkles and other signs of aging are detailed in the Skin Rejuvenation
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Vitamin C for wrinkles and skin aging
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Vitamin C is one of the most widely used skin care ingredients. The variety of
skin rejuvenation / anti-wrinkle products with vitamin C is staggering. Do these
products work? Do their claims have any substance? The situation is a little
complicated. On one hand, vitamin C does possess definite, scientifically
validated merits for wrinkle reduction and skin rejuvenation. On the other hand,
many vitamin C products do not work.
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Potentially, vitamin C can benefit skin in two important ways. Firstly, vitamin C is
essential for the synthesis of collagen, a key structural protein of the skin.
Adding vitamin C to a culture of skin cells (fibroblasts) dramatically increases the
synthesis of collagen. Secondly, vitamin C is an antioxidant and can help reduce
skin damage caused by free radicals. So, when vitamin C is properly delivered
into skin cells, there is a good chance to reduce wrinkles and improve skin
texture.
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There are, however, some complicating circumstances often disregarded by
manufacturers. First, vitamin C is relatively unstable (unless it is in a dry form).
In the presence of air or other oxidizing agents, vitamin C is easily converted to
oxidized forms. The oxidized vitamin C is not only incapable of boosting collagen
synthesis or scavenging free radicals but may actually promote free radical
formation causing damage to vital molecules such as proteins and DNA. In
poorly prepared or poorly stored skin care products, vitamin C may already be
oxidized by the time you apply it to your skin. Second, only highly concentrated
preparations (10% or more) deliver enough vitamin C to the cells to be topically
effective.
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A number of skin care companies offer highly concentrated stabilized vitamin C
products, which (at least in theory) are supposed to be consistently effective.
However, these products are usually quite expensive. Furthermore, even
stabilized vitamin C products may be at least somewhat oxidized by the time you
use them. When vitamin C oxidizes, it eventually acquires a yellowish tint
indicating an advanced stage of oxidation. Interestingly, some manufacturers add
coloring to their vitamin C products, in which case it becomes hard to spot
advanced vitamin C oxidation. Whatever the motives for adding color may be,
we recommend avoiding vitamin C products that aren't colorless or white.
Unfortunately, the lack of a tint does not, by itself, guarantee the lack of
oxidation because the initial product of vitamin C oxidation (dehydroascorbic
acid) is colorless. Only further oxidation produces a noticeable yellowish tint.
Therefore, when selecting a vitamin C product it is important to pick a
trustworthy source and be careful about the expiration date and proper storage.
If you are willing to invest a bit of extra time, you can easily make a vitamin C
gel or serum on your own. That way you ensure both freshness and potency not to mention substantial cost savings. (For more information on making your
own skin care, including vitamin C formulations, see our article Do-It-Yourself
Anti-Aging Skin Care.)
Even when using an optimal formulation, not everyone will respond to vitamin C
treatments. About 50% of people show noticeable benefits. The chances are
improved when vitamin C is a part of a comprehensive regimen to rebuild
collagen in your skin. (See our article on collagen.) Also, people who do not
respond to conventional vitamin C products may respond to its derivatives, such
as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and others. These vitamin
C cousins not only boost collagen synthesis but also are more stable and less
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irritating. (See our article on vitamin C derivatives.)
Finally, keep in mind that taking large amounts of vitamin C (or its derivatives)
orally is of little benefit for reducing wrinkles because you cannot obtain high
enough concentration of vitamin C in the skin to increase collagen production.
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Vitamin C derivatives: skin benefits of ascorbic acid without the downside
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Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is one of the relatively few topical agents whose
effectiveness against wrinkles and fine lines is backed by a fair amount of reliable
scientific evidence. (See our article on vitamin C.) Unfortunately, the practical use
of vitamin C in skin care presents some difficulties due to its lack of stability.
When exposed to air, vitamin C solution undergoes oxidation and becomes not
only ineffective but also potentially harmful (oxidized vitamin C may increase the
formation of free radicals).
Some skin care companies offer stabilized vitamin C products, which oxidize
less rapidly. However, these products are usually very expensive (especially the
ones concentrated enough to be effective) and may still be excessively oxidized
by the time you use them.
Is it possible to get the skin benefits of vitamin C at lower cost and without the
risk of using a degraded product? Yes -- and in more ways than one. For
instance, you can relatively easily prepare a high potency vitamin C serum on
your own. If you make fresh batches often and store them properly, you can
ensure a reliable supply of effective topical vitamin C. (For more information on
making your own skincare preparations, including vitamin C serum, see our
article Do-It-Yourself Anti-Aging Skin Care.) If you do not wish to go the DIY
route, or high potency vitamin C irritates your skin, you can use vitamin C
derivatives.
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To improve the practicability of vitamin C in skin care, scientists have been
looking for its relatives with comparable or superior skin benefits. An ideal
vitamin C derivative should be able to easily penetrate into skin cells and release
L-ascorbic acid in amounts sufficient to boost collagen synthesis. Also, it should
be more stable and less irritating than vitamin C. So far, two compounds have
found their way into the broad skin care market: ascorbyl palmitate and
magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. A few other highly promising derivatives are on
the horizon.
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Ascorbyl palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate is the most widely used fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C in
skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C. Furthermore,
ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble antioxidant and is at least as effective as
vitamin E in protecting the skin from lipid peroxidation (a key type of free radical
damage in the skin). Unfortunately, it appears that the concentrations of ascorbyl
palmitate achievable in skin care formulas do not boost collagen synthesis as
much as vitamin C.
Numerous skin care products containing ascorbyl palmitate are commercially
available. When buying products with ascorbyl palmitate (or other vitamin Cderived skin care for that matter), it is best to choose colorless or white
formulation. That way you can spot the advanced stages of oxidation of the
active ingredient by the emergence of a yellowish tint. Unfortunately, the lack of
tint does not guarantee complete lack of oxidation because the early oxidation
products are colorless.
Magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate
Magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C rapidly
gaining popularity in skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C.
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitcderiv.html[24/01/2012 22:06:49]
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Most importantly, magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate appears to have the same
potential as vitamin C to boost skin collagen synthesis but is effective in
significantly lower concentrations. Overall, magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate
appears to be a better choice than vitamin C for people with sensitive skin and
those wishing to avoid any concomitant exfoliating effects. (Most vitamin C
formulas are highly acidic and therefore produce exfoliation.)
Skin care products with magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate are available and their
number is growing. Be careful though. Many products contain less than effective
concentration and fail to boost collagen synthesis. Also, even though magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate is several times more stable than vitamin C, it still gradually
degrades when exposed to light and air. Hence freshness and proper storage
are important.
Next generation of vitamin C derivatives
Most vitamin C derivatives on the market, including ascorbyl palmitate and
magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate, consist of the ascorbic acid fragment (ascorbyl)
and a fragment of another acid (e.g. palmitate or phosphate). Recent research
indicates that new vitamin C derivatives consisting of multiple chemical fragments
bound to a single ascorbic acid fragment may work even better. These new
derivatives are more stable compared to both vitamin C and older derivatives.
Furthermore, some of these newcomers (particularly the so-called
tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates) also appear to be more powerful boosters
of collagen synthesis. Even though relatively few skin care products currently on
the market contain these new compounds, they may become widely used as
more evidence of their benefits accumulates.
Bottom line
While unmodified vitamin C remains an important skin care ingredient, its
derivatives may do a better job in some situations. They tend to be more stable,
more affordable and less irritating. Furthermore, some of the derivatives may
even be as effective in boosting skin collagen synthesis. On the other hand,
unmodified vitamin C may be a better choice if you want to stimulate collagen
synthesis and exfoliate at the same time. (High potency vitamin C products are
highly acidic and therefore have exfoliating effect.)
To learn about the practical use of vitamin C derivatives, including the promising
new compounds, see Skin Rejuvenation Infopack. It covers optimal
concentrations, proper application, storage and other issues that impact the
effectiveness of these agents.
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Anhydrous vitamin C combo. Making the best of vitamin C skin care.
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scientific evidence (see our article on vitamin C). Unfortunately, the practical use
of vitamin C in skin care presents some difficulties for a number of reasons.
First, vitamin C is relatively unstable. When exposed to air, vitamin C solution
undergoes oxidation and becomes not only ineffective but also potentially
harmful (oxidized vitamin C may increase the formation of free radicals). Second,
vitamin C products (especially the effective ones) tend to be irritating for many
people. Topical vitamin C formulations need to be at least 10% strong to boost
collagen synthesis and thereby improve wrinkles. At this concentration, vitamin C
preparations are highly acidic (pH around 2.5), which may be irritating, especially
for sensitive skin. Neutralizing the acidity does not solve the problem because
buffered vitamin C becomes ionized, which markedly reduces skin penetration.
At present, there are two practicable approaches to solving the above problems.
They may be combined to maximize the chances of squeezing all possible skin
benefits out of vitamin C.
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One approach to improving vitamin C stability and reducing the potential for skin
irritation is to use anhydrous vehicle, i.e. a topical base cream containing no
water. Since water acts as a catalyst of vitamin C oxidation, anhydrous
environment reduces the rate of vitamin C degradation. Anhydrous vitamin C is
more stable not only during storage but also on the skin after the application.
This is an important advantage, even compared to some stabilized water-based
vitamin C formulas, which may store well but still oxidize quickly on the skin
surface. Furthermore, anhydrous vitamin C tends to be less irritating than regular
ascorbic acid products because the irritation is caused mainly by hydrogen ions
generated by acid dissociating in water.
More importantly, evidence indicates that ultrafine microcrystalline vitamin C in
an anhydrous vehicle can stimulate collagen synthesis. In a 2006 study
published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Dr Geoffrey K. Heber and coworkers studies the effects of 20 - 23% ultrafine microcrystalline anhydrous
vitamin C on the collagen synthesis in the sections of human skin. The
researchers found an increased production of both type I and type III collagen
(both of these types of collagen are important for youthful skin).
Vitamin C derivatives
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Anhydrous vitamin C
Another solution is to use of vitamin C derivatives, which may provide skin
benefits similar to the unmodified vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) but tend to be
more stable and less irritating (see our article on vitamin C derivatives.)
Unfortunately, vitamin C derivatives have limitations of their own. While a
number of vitamin C derivatives appear promising as collagen boosters, more
studies are needed to definitively determine which ones are as effective as
vitamin C itself. Also, due to variation in individual skin biochemistry some
people who respond to vitamin C do not respond to its derivatives and vice
versa.
Anhydrous vitamin C combo, possibly the best of both worlds
There is some evidence that combining water soluble and oil-soluble forms of
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/anhydrous_vitc_combo.html[24/01/2012 22:07:07]
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vitamin C may provide synergistic skin benefits through broader antioxidant
protection and better penetration. However, combining high concentrations of oil
and water-soluble active ingredients is often technically difficult using typical skin
care vehicles. Fortunately, in the case of vitamin C, some anhydrous vehicles
allow to combine high potency vitamin C with its oil-soluble derivatives while
providing the extra stability of water-free base. For example, one can combine Lascorbic acid (water soluble) and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil-soluble) in an
anhydrous vehicle. A study of such a formula, conduced by Drs Fitzpatrick and
Rostan, was published in Dermatological Surgery (a peer-reviewed journal) in
2002. The researchers used a combination of L-ascorbic acid and
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in anhydrous polysilicone gel base applied to one-half of the face vs. inactive polysilicone gel base applied to the opposite side. The
researchers concluded that the formulation produced "clinically visible and
statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12
weeks" and that "the improvement correlated with biopsy evidence of new
collagen formation."
While many biocompatible organic vehicles may be used as an anhydrous base
(e.g. glycerin), the best results seem be obtained either with
siloxanes/polysilicones or a mixture of oil and emulsifying wax. Siloxanes and
polysilicones are related silicon-containing organic compounds often used as
skin protectants. They appear particularly effective in forming an anhydrous film
that protects the skin surface from irritation, oxidation, and other offenses. The
mixture of oil and emulsifying wax is another anhydrous alternative, which, in
one laboratory study, appeared to be even more effective than polysilicone
vehicle. More research is needed to determine optimal anhydrous vehicle for real
life use as well as to compare various regular and anhydrous vitamin C formulas
head-to-head.
Unfortunately, as of the time of this writing, no commercial product seems to be
an anhydrous vitamin C combo. Non-anhydrous products with vitamin C
derivatives are available. So are a few anhydrous L-ascorbic acid products,
although they tend to be rather expensive. While waiting for an anhydrous
vitamin C combo to become commercially available, you can try to use both of
these types of products. If you do, apply them at least a few hours apart.
Applying a regular product (i.e. a product containing water) together with an
anhydrous one reduces the benefits of the latter.
Alternatively, you can take a DIY route. Skin-friendly anhydrous bases are readily
available. With minimal effort and expense, you can make anhydrous vitamin C
and/or anhydrous vitamin C combo yourself. You can even enhance it with
Vitamin E, which is known to potentiate antioxidant effects of vitamin C. (See
DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack for specific instructions).
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Vitamin C + E + ferulic acid: enhancing stability and effectiveness of topical ascorbic acid
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scientific evidence (see our article on vitamin C). Unfortunately, vitamin C is
relatively unstable. When exposed to air, vitamin C solution undergoes oxidation
and becomes not only ineffective but also potentially harmful (oxidized vitamin C
may increase the formation of free radicals). A variety of approaches have been
used to try to stabilize vitamin C in water solution. Unfortunately, there are no
good studies comparing the effectiveness of different stabilization methods under
the conditions of real life usage. In this article, we discuss a method where
vitamin C is stabilized and potentiated by the addition of vitamin E and ferulic
acid.
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Vitamin E is a fat soluble antioxidant. In living systems, vitamins C and E can
regenerate each other and thus potentiate each other's antioxidant effects. While
the capacity of vitamin E to protect vitamin C from oxidation in a water solution is
relatively modest, vitamin E enhances the antioxidant effects of vitamin C when
they are co-applied to the skin. Therefore, even if some of the vitamin C in a
product is degraded, the remainder works better in the presence of vitamin E.
Studies indicate that the combination of vitamins C and E provide better
protection from UV-induced damage than either vitamin alone. On the other
hand, vitamin E appears to have little effect on the ability of vitamin C to
stimulate the synthesis of collagen.
Ferulic acid is a naturally occurring phenolic compound found primarily in plant
cell walls. It is a potent antioxidant and may have skin benefits even when used
alone. However, skin care related studies of ferulic acid focused on its ability to
enhance the effects of vitamins C and E. Preliminary research indicates that
ferulic acid may improve the stability of Vitamin C in water solution. Also, the
addition of ferulic acid to the combination of vitamins C and E appears to
increase protection from UV-induced skin damage. In one study, the addition of
ferulic acid to a vitamin C + vitamin E formula almost doubled the UV-protection
benefits. Whether ferulic acid affects the ability of vitamin C to increase collagen
synthesis is unclear.
While the combination of vitamin C, E and ferulic acid appears to have clear
advantages over vitamin C alone, a number of limitations remain. First, even
though combining vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid makes it more stable,
some degradation still occurs and may still be a significant factor depending on
the usage and storage conditions. Second, vitamin C is acidic and may be
irritating for people with sensitive skin, especially at relatively high concentrations
required for stimulating collagen production. There are alternatives allowing to
get at least some of the benefits of stable topical vitamin C while minimizing skin
irritation. (See our articles on vitamin C derivatives and anhydrous vitamin C.)
The topical combination of vitamin C (15%), vitamin E (1%) and ferulic acid
(0.5%) has been patented by SkinCeuticals corporation and is available as a
commercial product from SkinCeuticals.com and many retailers. (We are not
affiliated with SkinCeuticals in any way). If purchasing this product, make sure to
check the expiration date and preferably store the product in a refrigerator tightly
closed. Alternatively, you can relatively easily make a C+E+ferulic formulation
yourself (see DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack). However, keep in mind that
C+E+ferulic combination has been patented by SkinCeuticals. This may not
affect the DIY formulation as long as you do not intent to sell it. However, we are
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitamin-c-vitamin-e-ferulic-acid.html[24/01/2012 22:07:26]
Vitamin C + E + ferulic acid: enhancing stability and effectiveness of topical ascorbic acid
not legal experts. If you are considering the DIY route, please check with
SkinCeuticals corporation and/or patent authority in your country.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitamin-c-vitamin-e-ferulic-acid.html[24/01/2012 22:07:26]
Retinaldehyde: Skin benefits of retinoids with less irritation
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Retinoinds, such as retinoic acid (a.k.a. tretinoin, Retin-A), are a group of
biochemical agents clinically proven to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and other signs
of skin aging. Unfortunately, retinoids can be irritating in sensitive individuals and
if used improperly may do more harm than good. (See our article about
retinoids). One alternative is to use less irritating precursors, the substances that
are themselves inactive but can be converted to active (directly-acting) retinoids
by the body. The most common retinoid precursor in skin care are retinol and
retinyl palmitate, both forms of vitamin A. (In fact, retinyl palmitate is a biological
storage form of retinol in the body). Unfortunately, while less irritating, retinol and
retinyl palmitate tend to be considerably less effective than retinoic acid and
other directly acting retinoids. The main reason is that they need to undergo at
least two conversion steps before becoming retinoic acid. Such conversion tends
to be slow and its rate varies among individuals. As a result, anti-aging effects of
retinol and retinyl palmitate tend to be more modest and less reliable than those
of retinoic acid and analogous retinoids (see our article retinol / retinyl palmitate).
Fortunately, there is a less common retinoid precursor that is just one step away
from retinoic acid. Its name is retinaldehyde (a.k.a. retinal) and it is also
considered a form of vitamin A. In just one step, the body can convert
retinaldehyde either to retinoic acid or to retinol (which can be further converted
to retinyl palmitate). Due to such metabolic dynamics, treating the skin with
retinaldehyde could produce therapeutic levels of retinoic acid while reducing the
risk of side effects associated with retinoid excess.
So, does retinaldehyde indeed combine the effectiveness of directly acting
retinoids with lower potential for skin irritation? The existing research is limited
but appears to point is that direction. A German study by Dr. Fluhr and coworkers published in the journal Dermatology in 1999 compared irritation
potential of retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid and concluded that both
retinol and retinaldehyde had a good tolerance profile compared to retinoic acid.
A French study by Dr Boisnic and co-workers (also published in the journal
Dermatology in 1999) looked at the ability of retinaldehyde to reverse skin
damage induced by UVA radiation. The researchers concluded that retinaldehyde
exhibited "many of the properties of tretinoin [trans-retinoic acid] in its biological
and beneficial effects on photoaging" and in particular improved dermal
connective tissue by boosting "repair of elastic fibers and reversing collagen
alteration induced by UVA exposure". However, more studies are needed to
assess the full scope of skin rejuvenation benefits of retinaldehyde. Particularly
useful would be those directly comparing retinaldehyde with retinoic acid and/or
other retinoids over reasonably long periods of realistic topical application. Only
such studies can fully answer the question whether retinaldehyde can provide
comparable or superior anti-aging benefits compared to active retinoids.
However, for people with sensitive skin or those intolerant of retinoids, topical
retinaldehyde may be worth a try even before such data is available.
Unfortunately, optimal concentrations and usage practices for topical
retinaldehyde need further research. Most studies conducted so far used topical
retinaldehyde in concentrations 0.05% and 0.1%.
In addition to skin rejuvenation, there is another application where retinaldehyde
may prove comparable or even superior to retinoids - treatment of acne.
Retinoids, such as retinoic acid (tretinoin, Retin-A) and adapalene (Differin), have
been one of the established acne treatments for decades. Obviously, considering
that retinaldehyde is converted to retinoic acid in the body it could conceivably
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/retinaldehyde.html[24/01/2012 22:07:44]
have the same effect on acne as directly acting retinoids. Furthermore, since it is
less irritating than retinoids, retinaldehyde may be easier to combine with other
potentially irritating acne treatments, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy
acids or benzoyl peroxide. In fact, two studies have demonstrated the
effectiveness of topical 0.1% retinaldehyde combined with 6% glycolic acid in
treating acne. Also, there is evidence that retinaldehyde possesses some
antimicrobial activity against P. acnes, the bacteria involved in the development
of acne. In fact, Dr Pechere an co-workers from Geneva University Hospital,
Geneva, Switzerland showed that retinaldehyde is a much stronger antibacterial
that either retinol or retinoic acid (published in the journal Dermatology in 2002).
It would be useful to conduct studies directly comparing retinaldehyde with
retinoic acid and other directly acting retinoids as an acne treatment. The
research so far indicates that retinaldehyde holds considerable promise as an
acne treatment, especially in combination with other anti-acne agents.
A few commercial skin care products with retinaldehyde are available (albeit not
inexpensive) and, as opposed to directly acting retinoid creams, do not require a
prescription. If you decide to shop for a topical retinaldehyde product, make sure
to check for proper concentration. As we mentioned, the clinically studied
retinaldehyde concentrations were typically 0.05% - 0.1%. While less irritating
than directly acting retinoids, retinaldehyde can still cause skin irritation and/or
excessive dryness in sensitive individuals. It may be prudent to start with lower
concentrations (e.g. by diluting with inert vehicle) and/or apply less frequently
(e.g. every other day) and then gradually increase the concentration/frequency to
the desired level. If even cautious use of retinaldehyde is too irritating for you,
consider switching to (retinoids / retinyl palmitate)
Bottom line
The limited available evidence indicates that retinaldehyde may deliver at least
some of the skin rejuvenation benefits of directly acting retinoids, such as retinoic
acid (tretinoin, Retin A), with less skin irritation and other side effects.
Retinaldehyde may also be a useful acne treatment, especially since it appears
not only to act via retinoids pathway but also to kill P. acnes bacteria. However,
more research is needed to determine whether retinaldehyde is as effective as
retinoids for skin rejuvenation and/or acne treatment. If it is, retinaldehyde may
become a preferred treatment for most people due to a better side effect profile.
If it proves less effective, it could still be a useful alternative for people who
cannot tolerate directly acting retinoids. Notably, while retinaldehyde is less
irritating than directly acting retinoids, some people are unable to tolerate it
either, in which case retinol/retinyl palmitate may be the alternative of choice.
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Reducing wrinkles with retinol and retinyl palmitate
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Retinol and retinyl palmitate are among the most widely used active ingredients
in skin care products. Unfortunately, there is much confusion about how they
work, what results they can deliver and what their optimal usage is. This article
will help clarify these issues.
First, let me explain the basics. Both retinol and retinyl palmitate are forms of
vitamin A (along with yet another form retinaldehyde). As opposed to many other
vitamins, vitamin A does not have much of a direct biological effect. It works via
its active metabolite (biochemical derivative) called retinoic acid. Only retinoic acid
and its analogs collectively called retinoids have direct effect on skin cells and
can adjust their physiology toward a more youthful state. In fact, retinoic acid
a.k.a. tretinoin is the active ingredient in Retin A and Renova - some of the bestknown anti-wrinkle creams (see our article on tretinoin). However, topical retinoic
acid often causes skin irritation and other side effects, which limit its use,
especially in sensitive individuals.
The good news is that skin cells have the "equipment" (specialized enzymes)
converting various forms of vitamin A into retinoic acid. Indeed, if sufficient
amounts of retinol, retinyl palmitate or retinaldehyde are added to the culture of
skin cells, the amount of retinoic acid in the cells increases. Therefore, at least in
theory, topical vitamin A may deliver at least some of the well-established skin
benefits of retinoic acid while producing fewer side effects.
Not all forms of vitamin A are created equal. Some are more easily converted to
retinoic acid than others. A typical conversion pathway looks like this:
Retinyl palmitate <=> Retinol <=> Retinaldehyde => Retinoic acid
It takes two and three metabolic steps, correspondingly, to convert retinol and
retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid. The overall rate of conversion of retinol to
retinoic acid is low and that of retinyl palmitate is lower still. Therefore a relatively
large amount of retinol and even larger amount of retinyl palmitate needs to be
delivered into a cell to boost retinoic acid levels and produce clinically meaningful
effects.
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Numerous products with retinol and retinyl palmitate are touted as equivalent to
retinoic acid (tretinoin, Retin A) in effectiveness yet devoid of its side effects. The
reality is a bit more complicated. Many of these products contain too little retinol /
retinyl palmitate to have any noticeable effect. Simply the fact that these agents
are in the list of ingredients is not enough. The products with high concentrations
do exist but may still not deliver the purported benefits for a number of reasons.
In particular, a product with highly concentrated retinol may cause skin irritation,
especially in people with sensitive skin. Highly concentrated retinyl palmitate is
less irritating than retinol (at equivalent levels) but is also less effective. (After all
retinyl palmitate is the farthest away from retinoic acid in the metabolic pathway.)
Furthermore, conversion rates of various forms of vitamin A to retinoic acid vary
among individuals - the same product/concentration may yield visible benefits in
some people and little or none in others. Further still, retinol, and to a lesser
degree retinyl palmitate, can be degraded by oxidation if formulated, stored
and/or used improperly.
Considering all these caveats, how should one use retinol / retinyl palmitate
products (if at all)? As of the time of this writing, research indicates that the most
reliable way to get all the skin rejuvenation benefits of retinoic acid is to actually
use retinoic acid a.k.a. tretinoin (or other directly acting retinoids at optimal
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/retinol.html[24/01/2012 22:08:03]
concentration. However, this may not be a viable option for some people.
Retinoic acid and other directly acting retinoids require a prescription (at least in
some countries) and are relatively expensive. They also tend to cause skin
irritation, especially in sensitive individual or if used imprudently. The closest
alternative is to use topical retinaldehyde, which is only one step away from
retinoic acid. However, even though retinaldehyde creams do not require a
prescription, they also tend to be expensive and may still cause skin irritation
(see our article on retinaldehyde). If for any of the above reasons retinoic acid
(tretinoin, Retin A) or retinaldehyde are not suitable for you, a product with
retinol and/or retinyl palmitate may be worth a try. When looking for such a
product, it is important to find a stable, sufficiently concentrated formulation that
does not irritate your skin.
If commercial retinol/retinyl palmitate products prove too expensive or otherwise
unsuitable for you, a do-it-yourself approach may help. It allows to easily
customize retinol concentration to fit your skin physiology, i.e. you can adjust the
concentration high enough to produce benefits but not so high as to cause
irritation. Furthermore, if the DIY cream is used up soon after is has been
prepared, retinol does not have time to degrade too much. For more on making
your own retinol cream see DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack
Bottom line
Despite the increasing availability of products containing various forms of vitamin
A (retinoids precursors), retinoic acid a.k.a. tretinoin still offers a better chance of
anti-wrinkle effects because its activity does not depend on conversion rates and
other variables. Among retinoids precursors, retinaldehyde is the nearest (on
metabolic pathway) to retinoic acid and is likely to match its benefits more
closely. However, well-designed products containing retinol and/or retinyl
palmitate provide an additional alternative that may be cheaper and, at least for
some people, less irritating.
A retinoic acid (tretinoin) user who has developed side-effects, such as skin
irritation and/or chronic peeling, may first try to reduce the concentration or
frequency of application. Then she might try a retinaldehyde product. If that fails,
a well-selected retinol/retinyl palmitate product may be worth a try. (Caution:
neither directly-acting retinoids nor any forms of vitamin A should be used in the
event of continuing chronic side-effects.) For more on pros, cons and practical
use of retinoids and various forms of vitamin A, see Skin Rejuvenation Infopack.
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Copper peptides: Can you 'repair' a wrinkle?
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If aging, as some say, is a disease, then wrinkles can be viewed as small,
improperly healed wounds. Indeed wrinkles are characterized by incorrect
deposition of collagen and imperfect skin cell layering, which is also seen in
healed wounds albeit on a much larger scale. If so, could the agents that modify
the process of wound healing (by minimizing scar formation and improving skin
remodeling) have a potential to prevent or even reduce wrinkles? Well, possibly.
A good example of a wound-healing agent that appears to also have anti-wrinkle
potential is the class of compounds called copper peptides.
What exactly are copper peptides and how can they boost skin rejuvenation?
Generally speaking, peptides are small fragments of proteins. (And the proteins
are the key building blocks of most living tissues.) Certain kinds of peptides have
an avid affinity for copper, to which they bind very tightly. The resulting
compound consisting of a peptide and a copper atom has become known as a
copper peptide.
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The benefits of copper peptides for tissue regeneration were discovered by Dr.
Loren Pickart in the 1970s. He found and patented a number of specific copper
peptides (in particular, GHK copper peptides or GHK-Cu) that were particularly
effective in healing wounds and skin lesions as well as some gastrointestinal
conditions. One of the end results of this research was Iamin gel approved by
the FDA for the treatment of acute and chronic wounds and ulcers.
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A lot of substances can have a positive effect on wound healing. A distinctive
feature of GHK copper peptides is that they reduce scar tissue formation while
stimulating normal skin remodeling. In other words, they help better restore the
damaged area to its original look.
The mechanism of copper peptide action is relatively complex. GHK-Cu induces
the degradation of "extra-large" collagen aggregates found in scars and
promotes the synthesis of smaller more regular collagen found in normal skin. It
also promotes the synthesis of elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans and
other components of skin matrix. Other important effects of GHK-Cu include the
ability to regulate the growth rate and migration of different types of cells;
significant anti-inflammatory action; and the ability to prevent the release of
oxidation-promoting iron into the tissues. The net result is a faster, better and
"cleaner" healing.
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You might say it's nice to have cleanly healed wounds, but what about people
who do not have any wounds or ulcerations to heal? Can copper peptides be
useful for regular skin protection and rejuvenation? It appears that they can.
However, while the wound healing effects of copper peptide have been
investigated and documented in many studies, much less research has been
done so far on their cosmetic and anti-aging use. The available evidence
indicated the following potential skin benefits:
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Many existing skin care treatments are based on the concept of removing
the outermost or even deeper layers of the skin. The resulting healing
process stimulates skin remodeling leading to smoother, younger looking
skin. Since copper peptides optimize healing and improve skin
remodeling, then can augment the effect of treatments based on various
forms of controlled skin injury. In particular, copper peptides can be useful
after various forms of laser resurfacing, dermabrasion, and chemical
peels. IMPORTANT: If you are considering using copper peptides after a
particular procedure, make sure to discuss it with your physician.
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/copper.html[24/01/2012 22:08:22]
Copper peptides are effective against various forms of skin irritation,
mainly due to their anti-inflammatory effects. Skin irritation, even in the
absence of open lesions, dramatically accelerates skin aging by promoting
the formation of free radicals and other toxic byproducts. Some common
skin rejuvenation treatments, such as tretinoin (Retin A, Renova) and
alpha hydroxy acids, can cause irritation. If during treatment you
experience skin irritation for an extended period of time, your skin will
likely end up in a worse shape than when you started. In many cases,
copper peptides can reduce or eliminate the irritation and help maximize
treatment benefits.
It is always easier to prevent the damage than to fix it later. To a
significant degree, skin aging is caused by the accumulation of minor dayto-day damage from sun, wind, detergents, acne, abrasions and so forth.
As these minute lesions heal, they leave microscopic imperfections,
which, eventually, accumulate to become visible signs of aging. While it
remain to be further researched, it appears that copper peptide can help
minimize the damage from daily wear and tear of the skin. For instance,
one study demonstrated that copper peptides helped recover skin integrity
after exposure to SLS, a common detergent found in many shampoos,
cleansers, and dishwashing/laundry products.
It remains unclear whether copper peptides can reverse wrinkles and
other signs of aging in the intact skin. Theoretically, it is possible since
copper peptides promote the degradation of abnormally large cross-linked
collagen (the one found in scars and, to a lesser degree, in wrinkles).
They also stimulate the production of "regular" collagen found in normal
skin. In one small study, copper peptides stimulated collagen production in
the intact skin. In fact, in that study copper peptides produced a stronger
stimulation of collagen sysnthesis than tretinoin (Retin A, Renova) or
ascorbate (vitamin C).
At present, several skin care companies offer a range of copper peptide
products. However, to the best of my knowledge, all copper peptides in these
products are based on Dr. Pickart's patents.
Caution: While moderate use of copper peptides stimulates collagen synthesis
and has antioxidant effect (by stimulating the antioxidant enzyme superoxide
dismutase), excessive use can have an opposite effect by increasing the levels
of free copper and/or by triggering excessive production of metalloproteinases.
Free copper promotes free radical damage and collagen breakdown leading to
accelerated skin aging. Metalloproteinases can digest collagen and elastin,
weakening the skin and causing sag. These problems do not seem to occur
among the majority of copper peptide users. However, there are anecdotal
reports indicating that such side-effects might happen with overuse or, rarely,
even normal use in sensitive individuals. Ideally, a sufficiently large study is
needed to better quiantify these risk.
The bottom line
Copper peptides are a promising skin treatment with a good safety profile. Their
ability to improve the healing of various types of skin lesions is well established.
It is likely that copper peptides may slow down the development of the signs of
skin aging by limiting the consequences of daily wear and tear. Also, copper
peptides may augment the results of the skin rejuvenation treatments based on
controlled skin injury, such as laser resurfacing, dermabrasion and peels. There
are also indications that copper peptides have the potential to improve wrinkles
and skin texture on their own. However, more extensive and prolonged studies
are required to definitively prove it. Also, it appears that copper peptides may
cause rare but significant skin damage in some cases of overuse or unusual
sensitivity. Further practical details of optimal selection and prdent use and using
copper peptides products are discussed in Skin Rejuvenation Infopack.
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Alpha lipoic acid skin care: What is all the fuss about?
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Many if not most skin care conscious people have heard about alpha lipoic acid
(often called lipoic acid for short). These days the number of skin care products
with lipoic acid is growing as rapidly as its media coverage. However, as many
consumers know from personal experience, neither media coverage nor
acceptance by skin care companies guarantees effectiveness or even safety. So,
what do we really know about lipoic acid in general, and its purported skin care
benefits in particular.
Lipoic acid is a well-known natural substance found in certain foods and also
produced in the human body. It has an impressive array of potentially beneficial
mechanisms of action:
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Lipoic acid is a potent and versatile antioxidant.
It is a co-factor in a key biochemical pathway responsible for energy
production in the cells (citric acid cycle).
It inhibits cross-linking which is the formation of chemical bridges between
proteins or other large molecules. Cross-linking contributed to the aging
process by causing hardening of arteries, wrinkling of the skin and
stiffening of joints.
It has moderate anti-inflammatory effect.
Finally, it has a capacity, albeit a modest one, to neutralize and remove
from the body a variety of toxic metals.
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Lipoic acid supplements have been repeatedly demonstrated to benefit a number
of health conditions, including the neurological complications of diabetes, arterial
sclerosis and others.
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In theory, all of the above effects of lipoic acid may benefit skin cells and,
therefore, improve skin texture and wrinkles. However, many substances that
were deemed "theoretically" effective against wrinkles, proved to be of little or no
value when actually tested. (Topical collagen, aloe vera, topical amino acids to
name a few.) Furthermore, even if a substance has been demonstrated to
protect skin cells or stimulate collagen production in a test tube, this is no
guarantee of its effectiveness when applied to real human faces in a cream. The
only reliable indicators are clinical studies, preferably performed by several
independent teams of researchers.
How does topical lipoic acid fare in clinical studies department? Well, at this
point it holds a junior position. In one small-scale study, high potency lipoic acid
reduced mild-to-moderate wrinkles by up to 50 percent, whereas fine lines have
almost disappeared. In another study, lipoic acid significantly improved the
appearance of certain types of scars. In both studies the effectiveness varied
among participants, from little effect to a marked improvement. However, this
shouldn't disqualify lipoic acid as a "wrinkle cure" contender. Even well
established wrinkle treatments tend to produce widely varied results in different
people. If further studies corroborate skin benefits of lipoic acid, it may become
one of the mainstays of today's anti-aging skin care. In fact, lipoic acid will be
especially welcome in the family of proven wrinkle fighters because it is less
irritating than tretinoin (Retin A, Renova) and hydroxy acids. (Therefore it can be
used, albeit in lower concentrations, in delicate and wrinkle prone area around
the eyes.)
But don't get too excited just yet. Unfortunately, most studies of topical lipoic acid
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/lipoic.html[24/01/2012 22:08:42]
have been performed by the same researcher, a Yale dermatologist Nicholas
Perricone. Doctor Perricone has pioneered the use of lipoic acid for skin
rejuvenation, and later on promoted it in his popular book "The Wrinkle Cure."
As impressive as Dr. Perricone's credentials and studies may be, the research
that comes largely from a single source cannot be fully relied upon until
independently corroborated. Also, note that Dr. Perricone's studies employed a
rather high concentration of lipoic acid, whereas most commercial preparations
are less concentrated. Finally, lipoic acid is a cornerstone of Dr. Perricone's own
skin care line. I do not think that he would intentionally exaggerate the benefits
of lipoic acid just to boost sales. However, a potential conflict of interest is there.
Serious scientific research is a complicated business. When there is a conflict of
interest (e.g. income or prestige is affected by the outcome of the experiment), a
researcher may misinterpret the data without even realizing it. This is known to have happened to some of the history's greatest scientific minds, not to mention
rank and file scientists and physicians.
So, should you give lipoic acid a try or rather wait until more studies have been
performed? On one hand, to wait for more research is always prudent. On the
other hand, additional clinical studies may not materialize for another five or ten
years. In the mean time you may be missing out on an effective wrinkle
treatment with a good safety profile. (Although almost any treatment can produce
negative effect in a some people, adverse reactions to lipoic acid are less
common than to such agents as Retin A, vitamin C or glycolic acid.)
With that in mind, the dilemma for most people is whether it is worth spending
money on a 2-3 month supply of lipoic acid cream to give it a fair try.
Unfortunately, even though topical lipoic acid products are proliferating, they
remain somewhat costly. The prices include what I call a "hype premium"
because lipoic acid itself is an inexpensive, widely available chemical. If you like
taking matters in your own hands, you can easily make a lipoic acid cream
yourself. The benefits of this approach include very substantial cost-savings,
freshness and the ability to optimize the concentration of lipoic acid to fit your
needs. There is yet another important advantage of the do-it-yourself approach
in this particular case. Most lipoic acid products contain a mixture of its two
variants, so-called S and R forms. (For the scientifically inclined, these are two
different optical isomers of lipoic acid.) While both S and R forms are potent
antioxidants, only R-lipoic acid improves cellular energy production and reduces
inflammation. Furthermore, the presence of the S form appears to reduce the
effectiveness of the R-form. Other conditions being equal, R-form alone is more
likely to bring results than the commonly used S & R mixture. Lipoic acid creams
I've seen so far all use the mixture of the R and S forms. (Assume that the
cream contains a mixture unless the label explicitly says "R-lipoic acid".) Pure Rform is available as a powder, however, and is suitable for making your own Rlipoic acid cream.
For more information on making your own skincare preparations, including an
alpha lipoic acid cream, see the article Do-It-Yourself Anti-Aging Skin Care.
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Can coenzyme Q10 help protect and repair your skin?
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Coenzyme Q10 (Co Q10) is a relative newcomer to the skin care industry. Yet,
its value for general health and nutrition is rather well known and well
researched.
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CoQ10 has at least two important roles in the body. First, it is one of the
essential cogs in the biochemical machinery that produces biological energy
(ATP) inside the cells. Second, CoQ10 is an antioxidant. It helps neutralize
harmful free radicals, which are one of the causes of aging. Under perfect
conditions, the body can produce as much CoQ10 as it needs. However, various
factors, such as aging, stress and some medications, can lower the levels of
CoQ10 in the body. As a result, the ability of cells to withstand stress and
regenerate declines. Unfortunately, the levels of CoQ10 in the body almost
inevitably decline with age. In fact, CoQ10 is regarded as one of the most
accurate biomarkers of aging since its decline correlates so well with the aging
process. In some studies, rodents treated with supplemental CoQ10 lived up to
30 percent longer than their untreated counterparts. The effects of CoQ10
supplements on human longevity remain unknown. On the other hand, it was
proven useful in treating certain human diseases, including heart failure and
hypertension.
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What can CoQ10 do for your skin? Theoretically speaking, CoQ10 (in a skin
cream, for example) can be helpful. In most people over thirty, levels of CoQ10
in the skin are below optimum, resulting in lesser ability to produce collagen,
elastin and other important skin molecules. Besides, CoQ10-depleted skin may
be more prone to the damage by free radicals, which are particularly abundant in
the skin since it is exposed to the elements. Thus, CoQ10 may boost skin repair
and regeneration and reduce free radical damage. Furthermore, CoQ10 is a
small molecule that can relatively easily penetrate into skin cells.
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Based on this rationale as well as the drive to put new products on the marker,
some companies introduced skin care products with CoQ10. It is unclear whether
these products are effective. Firstly, theoretical effectiveness does not always
result into practical benefits. Second, very few real studies indicating possible
practical skin benefits of CoQ10 have been conducted so far. Arguably, the most
encouraging was a 1999 study by German researchers who reported that longterm use of CoQ10 reduced crows feet (wrinkles around the eye).
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Even if CoQ10 can be effective in treating skin aging, it is unclear whether
popular CoQ10 products contain sufficient concentration of active CoQ10. (Keep
in mind that CoQ10, just like vitamin C, can be inactivated by oxygen from the
air.). You can get around this problem, however, by preparing your own CoQ10
cream where you can ensure proper freshness and concentration. (See DIY AntiAging Skin Care Infopack for specific instructions).
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/coq10.html[24/01/2012 22:08:49]
Idebenone: a powerful wrinkle-fighter, a copy-cat or both?
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If you have heard of idebenone, you are likely either an enthusiast of smart
drugs or have been following skin care news. While idebenone has been known
for decades as a pharmaceutical agent, it has arrived to the realm of skin care
only recently. In fact, some skin care companies tout it as a new, cutting-edge
miracle rather than an old drug taught a few new tricks. But whether old or new,
the important question is: Can idebenone benefit your skin?
Let us start with a little history. In the 1970-80s, researchers had been studying
therapeutic potential of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), including its ability to improve
heart failure, reduce free radical damage and slow down certain neurological
conditions. CoQ10, a vitamin-like natural compound found in all aerobic
organisms, plays a pivotal role in the cellular energy production and is also an
effective antioxidant (see our article about CoQ10 for more details). Trying to
boost CoQ10's therapeutic effects, researchers synthesized and tested a variety
of its chemical analogs and derivatives. Most of these derivatives were found
ineffective and/or unsafe. One of the few lucky exceptions was idebenone.
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Idebenone is closely related to CoQ10 in its structure. It can replace CoQ10 in
the process of cellular energy production and, just as CoQ10, idebenone is also
an antioxidant. There are some important distinctions though. Idebenone is more
water-soluble than CoQ10; its cellular distribution and antioxidant profile are
somewhat different too. This makes idebenone superior to CoQ10 in neutralizing
some types of free radicals and inferior in fighting other types. Notably, idebnone
is more effective than CoQ10 in protecting cells from the free radical damage
resulting from reduced blood flow. On the other hand, idebenone appears more
conducive than CoQ10 to certain types of noxious free-radical leakage in the
cell's mitochondria. Unfortunately, there have been very few studies directly
comparing CoQ10 and idebenone in the treatment of various conditions.
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What does all this have to do with skin care? Recently CoQ10 has been shown
(albeit only in a few small studies) to improve skin wrinkles. Not surprisingly and
quite logically, some skin care companies decided that CoQ10 analogs might do
a similar or better job. But why conduct painstaking research developing new
CoQ10 analogs optimal for skin rejuvenation. Why not take a "tried and true"
existing analog, make it into a cream and tout as a new breakthrough. Lo and
behold, idebenone creams are now available and actively promoted as antiwrinkle remedies.
Unfortunatey, we can only speculate whether idebenone is better than CoQ10 as
a skin rejuvenator. Both idebenone and CoQ10 exert multiple effects on the
cells. However, despite numerous similarities, many important differences also
exist. Therefore, until there are studies comparing idebenone and CoQ10 skin
treatments had-to-head over an extended period, we will not know which of
these agents is superior.
Unfortunately, such degree of uncertainly is not uncommon when it comes to
"hot", rush-to-the-market skin care products. On the bright side, the uncertainty
about idebenone has to do mostly with effectiveness, not safety. In fact, most
experts agree that idebenone is reasonably safe. It has been in clinical use since
1980s and has a very good safety record. In the US, it is sold without a
prescription and classified as a nutritional supplement, just as CoQ10 itself. (The
FDA allows certain safe synthetic derivatives of naturally occurring compounds to
be classified as supplements.)
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/idebenone.html[24/01/2012 22:09:06]
Idebenone: a powerful wrinkle-fighter, a copy-cat or both?
Is idebenone cream worth a try? If you are using proven anti-wrinkle agents
(such as retinoids or vitamin C derivatives) with good results, it may be wiser to
hold off with idebenone and wait for more studies. However, if the established
treatments are not working for you or even produce adverse effects, then trying
idebenone is a question of willingness to spend time and money on a treatment
that could work in theory but is not yet backed by hard evidence.
Unfortunately for those tempted to try it, idebenone-based skin care is relatively
pricey, even though idebenone itself is not particularly expensive. As is common
for the actively promoted "breakthrough" treatments, the price includes a
sizeable hype premium. Your alternatives are: to pay up, to wait till the price
comes down, or to make an idebenone cream yourself. In addition to cost
savings, the DIY approach has an advantage on allowing you to ensure sufficient
concentration and freshness. Notably, idebenone (like CoQ10 and many other
antioxidants) is easily inactivated by oxygen in the air, which makes freshness
particularly important. See DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack for specific
instructions on making idebenone and CoQ10 formulations.
Finally, if you decide to try an idebenone cream, consider performing a head-tohead comparison of idebenone and CoQ10 yourself. You can simply use a
CoQ10 cream on one side of your face and an idebenone cream on the other.
Give it at least six weeks for the results (or lack thereof) to kick in.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/idebenone.html[24/01/2012 22:09:06]
Lycopene: antioxidant and sunscreen in one.
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Lycopene, a relative newcomer to the world of skin care, belongs to a class of
compounds called carotenes. Carotenes are plant pigments that share certain
elements of chemical structure and usually have color somewhere in the orangered-brown range. To one degree or another, different carotenes can scavenge
free radicals and block visible and UV-light.
Lycopene may be the best free radical scavenger among carotens - it is at least
twice as effective an antioxidant as beta carotene. In recent years, a number of
studies indicated a variety of health benefits of lycopene, including reduced risk
of cancer, heart diseases and other chronic conditions. In addition to protecting
cells from free radical damage, lycopene may produce its beneficial effect by
other means, such as improving the function of cell-to-cell junctions and some
aspects of cell metabolism. Being fat soluble, lycopene appears to be particularly
effective in the tissues with high fat and lipid content. For example, it significantly
reduces the risk of cancer of the prostate, an organ very high in lipids. The skin,
also a lipid-rich organ, is likely to benefit from high antioxidant activity of
lycopene. Theoretically, lycopene's ability to regulate cell-to-cell junctions might
provide an additional benefit of improving skin texture.
The ability of lycopene to block UV light is an additional benefit for the skin.
However, lycopene has SPF of about 3, which is insufficient to protect from direct
sun or any other harsh UV exposure. On the other hand, it is enough to reduce
the effects of indirect sunlight or the sunlight that has passed through window
glass. For people who do not wish to use sunblock at all times, an alternative
strategy may be to wear a sunblock (SPF 15 or greater) outdoors, and use a
lycopene lotion at other times.
What is the best way to get skin benefits of lycopene? As with most other noninvasive treatments, you can either put it on or ingest it. The best food source of
lycopene is tomatoes. There is a catch though. In raw tomatoes, lycopene is
tightly bound to indigestible fiber. Therefore eating raw tomatoes provides
relatively small amounts of bioavailable lycopene. Cooked tomatoes, such as
tomato paste or tomato sauce are a much better dietary source of lycopene.
However, to get any appreciable health and skin benefit of lycopene you need to
eat at least 100 grams (3.5 ounces) of tomato paste a day. An easier way may
be to use lycopene supplements which are widely available in health food stores.
Dietary intake may not be sufficient to maximize skin benefits of lycopene. When
ingested, lycopene is distributed throughout the entire body and only relatively
small amount finds its way into the skin. Luckily, lycopene is well absorbed if
applied topically (e.g. in a cream or lotion) because it is fat soluble and has
relatively small molecules. The only possible downside of topical application is
that lycopene may give your skin a bit of a tint (in the orange-red-bronze range).
Some people enjoy this look as it resembles a light, fresh tan while others prefer
to minimize it and therefore use lycopene lotions at night. The way lycopene
looks on you may depend on your skin complexion as well as your choice of
makeup. However, you will get the antioxidant, UV-protection and possibly other anti-aging benefits of lycopene regardless of your skin type or complexion.
How to get lycopene skin care products? We don't sell or promote and particular
lycopene products since the mission of this site is to provide unbiased, well
researched information. Commercial lycopene creams and lotions are available
(just search the web). However, at the time of this writing, they are relatively few
and quite expensive. Another problem with the products containing topical
lycopene or other antioxidants is that once a jar has been opened (or if it is
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/lycopene.html[24/01/2012 22:09:25]
intact but poorly sealed), the contents starts to degrade due to exposure to
oxygen in the air. A viable alternative is to make your own lycopene cream or
lotion. It is surprisingly easy to do and allows you to have topical lycopene that is
both fresh and costs many times less than most commercial alternatives. For
more information on making your own skincare preparations, including a
lycopene lotion, see our article Do-It-Yourself Anti-Aging Skin Care.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/lycopene.html[24/01/2012 22:09:25]
Will DMAE lift your face, or just your wallet?
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Topical DMAE has often been called, mostly by skin care ads and lay media,
"the facelift in a jar." To appreciate the scope of this claim, it is important to
distinguish between topical agents that reduce the appearance of wrinkles and
the ones that reduce facial sag. The former have been around for quite a while.
For example, tretinoin (Retin A) has been consistently shown to reduce the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in some people. On the other hand, none
of the well known topical agents has been proven to reverse facial sag. This is
unfortunate because a sagging face is arguably a more prominent sign of aging
than wrinkles. A common thinking goes that even young people may have
wrinkles but only older people have sagging faces. True or not, firming is as
important for facial rejuvenation as any other facet of skin care.
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So what about DMAE? Can it help, or is it just another rub-on facelift scam?
The reality is somewhere in between. DMAE won't accomplish anything
approaching a well-performed surgical face lift, but it is not useless either. In
fact, DMAE may be the first agent proven in a study to have at least some
positive effect on facial sag.
What is DMAE and what does it do anyway? DMAE is a short for
dimethylaminoethanol, a naturally occurring substance that facilitates the
synthesis of a neurotransmitter acetylcholine. DMAE also may stimulate the
synthesis of phosphatidylcholine, an important component of cell membranes.
Interestingly, DMAE is far better known and researched as a "smart drug" than a
skin firming agent. In a number of studies, DMAE has been shown to reduce
age-related decline in cognitive ability and memory. It was also found to
modestly increase life span of laboratory animals. An intriguing finding in some
DMAE studies was that it reduced the accumulation of lipofuscin deposits inside
cells. Lipofuscin is a cellular pigment consisting of aggregated chunks of
molecular waste. It tends to occur in the cells of older people. It is likely that
lipofuscin is not simply a byproduct of aging but also contributes to the aging
process. Neurons, heart and skin of older people usually contain particularly
large amounts of lipofiscin.
The DMAE-skin connection is less researched. It has been demonstrated that
DMAE causes some degree of skin tightening. However, despite speculation it
remains unclear how DMAE firms the skin -- whether by stabilizing the
membranes, boosting acetylcholine, reducing lipofuscin deposits or none of the
above. Whatever the mechanism, the effect of DMAE is often noticeable
although seldom dramatic. Besides, even though DMAE can't fully reverse the
existing facial sag, it may reduce its further progression. Some people report a
cumulative effect with continued use of DMAE.
Another issue is whether topical DMAE is safe. On one hand, it has been
extensively used in skin care since the 90s without widespread reports of
obvious skin damage. This makes major toxicity of commonly used strengths
unlikely. However, this does not rule out a possibility of low-level skin damage. A
2007 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology raised concerns
about DMAE's potential to damage skin cells. If you are using or considering
topical DMAE, make sure you read our article on DMAE safety.
A number of skin care companies sell DMAE creams, most costing upward of
$25 for a small jar. The prices reflect the hype and relative lack of competition
from "supermarket" brands. DMAE itself is a rather simple substance, no more
costly than alpha hydroxy acids or aspirin. Besides, DMAE does not need special
stabilization like vitamin C, and it is easy to disperse in a topical vehicle. Based
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/dmae.html[24/01/2012 22:09:43]
on purely economic and manufacturing considerations, a DMAE cream should
cost well under $10. Is there an alternative to paying a large "hype" premium for
a DMAE cream? Yes, there is. It is surprisingly easy and affordable to make
your own DMAE cream. An additional advantage of this approach is that you can
fine-tune DMAE concentration to fit your skin. For more information on making
your own skincare preparations, including a DMAE cream, see our article Do-ItYourself Anti-Aging Skin Care.
Again, if you are using or considering topical DMAE, whether commercial or DIY,
make sure to read our DMAE safety article first.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/dmae.html[24/01/2012 22:09:43]
What green tea can and cannot do for your skin
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Tea is an ancient herbal drink known for its stimulant qualities largely attributed
to caffeine. In modern times, it also became touted as a health food allegedly
helpful in preventing or ameliorating a variety of conditions, from heart disease
and cancer, to gum disease, skin aging and weight loss. The major types of tea
include black, green and white, differing by the method of harvesting and
processing.
Active principles in tea
The medicinal properties of tea are attributed to flavonoid phytochemicals called
polyphenols. The polyphenols found in tea mainly belong to the subtype called
catechins. Green tea has more catechins than black tea (about 25% vs 4%).
White tea is almost as rich in catechins as green tea but is different in
composition and less well studied. The main catechins in green tea include
gallocatechin (GC), epigallocatechin (EGC), epicatechin (EC), and
epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG).
Tea and general heath
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Numerous studies have shown tea polyphenols to have protective effects against
free radicals, cardiovascular damage, some cancers, infections, toxins and so
forth. But there is a catch. Most of the direct studies of the green tea effects
have been done in tissue culture (test tubes) and animal models. The majority of
human studies have been based on statistical correlations, i.e. the researchers
used statistics to link tea consumption and the incidence of various diseases.
Such correlational (a.k.a. epidemiological) data is by no means proof or even
strong evidence of cause and effect - although it is a useful starting point for
designing clinical trials.
As of the time of this writing, the overall impression from the limited human
clinical trials is that tea (especially green and white) increases antioxidant
capacity of tissues, particularly the blood, and that it improves some aspects of
the lipid profile, such as the level and stickiness of LDL (bad cholesterol).
The full heath benefits of tea consumption in humans, if any, may take decades
to investigate beyond reasonable doubt. However, considering tea's high safety
and a large amount of indirect evidence suggestive of many potential health
benefits, switching to tea (especially green or white) from other beverages makes
good sense. Due to lack of direct long-tern studies, opinions vary as to how
much tea should be consumed for optimal health. Most experts suggest drinking
from three to ten cups per day. Those who wish to avoid caffeine or do not wish
to bother with tea brewing, can take a supplement of green tea extract. A typical
dosage is 100 to 150 mg three times a day of a green tea extract standardized
to contain 80% total polyphenols and 50% epigallocatechin gallate. Whether the
extract offers the same benefits as freshly brewed tea remains unknown.
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Skin benefits of green tea
There have been a number of encouraging studies of skin benefits of green tea.
Animal studies showed protection from skin cancer. Both animal and human
studies have credibly demonstrated that topical green tea formulations reduce
sun damage. Green tea appears to exert sun damage protection by quenching
free radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays.
Therefore, green tea may synergistically enhance sun protection when used in
addition to a sunscreen.
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/greentea.html[24/01/2012 22:10:02]
A small study showed benefits of 2% polyphenone (via a particular type of green
tea extract) in papulopustular rosacea. In particular, a significant reduction in
inflammatory lesion was reported compared to placebo.
What about wrinkles, skin sag and other signs of aging? Can green tea help?
Considering their well-documented antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities,
topical green tea polyphenols are likely to slow down the development of some
signs of aging. Whether green tea can actually diminish wrinkles and skin sag is
far more uncertain.
In a 2005 study, forty women with moderate photoaging were randomized to
either a combination regimen of 10% green tea cream and 300 mg twice-daily
green tea oral supplementation or a placebo regimen for 8 weeks. No significant
differences in clinical grading were found between the green tea-treated and
placebo groups. On the other hand, histologic grading of skin biopsies did show
significant improvement in the elastic tissue content of treated specimens. More
human studies are needed to not only determine the scope of anti-aging skin
benefits of green tea but also to work out the optimal usage.
There is preliminary evidence that green tea may inhibit matrix
metalloproteinases (MMP), the enzymes whose excessive activity contributes to
age-related degradation of the skin matrix (see our article about MMP). In a
2009 in vitro (test tube) study, green tea extract was shown to inhibit two key
subtypes of MMP, collagenase and elastase. Notably, in the same study, white
tea was even more effective than green tea as an MMP inhibitor. (For details,
see our article on the skin benefits of white tea.)
How to use green tea in your skin care
Some uncertainty regarding the extent of green tea benefits and its optimal
usage is likely to remain for years to come. Yet, if you wish to include green tea
in your skin care today, there are sensible ways to go about it.
In particular, since sun protection benefits of green tea are particularly well
documented, it could make sense to apply a green tea formula under your
sunscreen when venturing into the sun. It is best to combine green tea with zinc
oxide-based sunscreens because zinc oxide is chemically inert and should not
react with green tea (which some chemical sunscreens might do, especially in
sunlight).
It may also be useful to incorporate green tea into your skin maintenance routine
to possibly slow down skin aging. However, simply buying a green tea cream
may not necessarily be the best way to go. Like most other antioxidants, green
tea polyphenols are oxidized and lose their activity when exposed to air.
Whether commercial green tea creams retain the activity is unclear and may
vary widely from product to product.
If you are willing to put in a bit of extra effort, here is some alternatives. Freeze
freshly brewed green tea as ice cubes and use them as a toner. (Just don't
apply ice cubes to your skin right out of the freezer, let them start thawing first or
you may get a freeze burn.) Or you can make your own fresh green tea cream
using standardized extract as an active ingredient (see our article Do-It-Yourself
Anti-Aging Skin Care). You can also drink lots of green tea or take green tea
extract in capsules as discussed above - the polyphenols might reach your skin
via the bloodstream in sufficient amounts to make a difference.
Related Links
Tea (Wikipedia)
Research studies related to skin benefits of green tea
White tea and the skin
Matrix metalloproteinases (MMP)
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Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase & anti-oxidant activities of 21 plants
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White tea may be even better for your skin than its green cousin
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Earlier I have discussed the potential benefits of tea - particularly green tea - to
both general health and the skin (see the article on green tea). Green tea is one
of the more researched plant-based remedies whose possible benefits include
promotion of cardio-vascular health, cancer prevention, skin protection, antioxidant activity and others. White tea is often viewed as similar or even
equivalent to green tea in terms of health benefits. This is understandable
because many of the active substances in green tea, the so-called catechins, are
also found in white tea and vice versa. However, recent evidence indicates that
white tea may be significantly more effective than green tea in some important
ways (especially in regard to skin aging) and that the differences between the
two are just as noteworthy as their similarities.
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What is white tea and how it relates to other teas?
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Tea is a drink made from the leave of a plant Camellia sinensis. Most of the
harvested leaves undergo various degree of processing, which changes the
chemical composition of the leaves and, among other things, reduces the
content of catechins. (Catechins are a subtype of polyphenol anti-oxidants
believed to be responsible for some of the tea's health benefits.)
The major types of tea include black, green and white, differing by the method of
harvesting and processing.
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The most common and the most processed type of tea is black tea. Black tea is
made of fully fermented (enzymatically oxidized) leaves and its catechin content
is relatively low. On the other hand, black tea is rich in teaflavins (products of
catechin fermentation), which are also antioxidants and, some argue, may have
health benefits of their own.
Green tea is generally not fermented but its leaves are subjected to air drying,
leading to some loss of catechins. Still green tea is much richer in catechins than
black tea.
White tea is the least processed type of tea and has the highest catechin
content. It is made of young tea leaves or buds steamed immediately after
harvest to inactivate polyphenol oxidase, the enzyme that destroys catechins. As
a result, white tea is richer in catechins than green tea. Furthermore, since white
tea is made of leaves harvested at an earlier growth phase, its composition may
differ from that of green tea in other important ways as well.
Could white tea beat its green cousin as skin protector
A number of studies indicated possible skin benefits of green tea, such as partial
protection from UV damage, anti-inflammatory effects, skin matrix protection and
others (see the article on green tea). White tea was presumed to produce
approximately the same benefits. Indeed, a study by Dr. Camouse and
colleagues from University Hospitals, Cleveland, Ohio, compared UV-protection
effects of topical green and white tea and found them to be roughly equivalent
(Experimental Dermatology, June 2009).
On the other hand, a study by Dr. Thring and colleagues from the School of Life
Sciences, Kingston University, London, indicated potential advantages of white
tea as a skin rejuvenation agent (BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine,
Aug 2009). In the study, the researchers looked at two key effects that help slow
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/whitetea.html[24/01/2012 22:10:21]
down skin aging: antioxidant activity (ability to neutralize harmful oxygen free
radicals) and the ability to inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMP). MMP are
enzymes that degrade the key proteins of skin matrix, particularly collagen and
elastin, leading to wrinkles and loss of firmness. A certain level of MMP in the
skin is healthy and necessary but excess MMP activity (often seen in older
people) contributes to skin aging. (See our article on MMP.)
Dr. Thring and colleagues found that out of a series 21 plants extracts, white tea
showed the greatest level of activity (per milligram of extract) both as an inhibitor
of key MMP subtypes (collagenase and elastase) and as an antioxidant.
Granted, extracts are not pure fully defined chemicals and comparing them may
be tricky. Still Dr. Thring's data indicate that white tea may be about 3-6 times
more effective than green tea as a skin matrix protector. The researchers also
found that by some measures of anti-oxidant activity (SOD activity) white tea and
green tea extracts were equivalent whereas by other measures (Trolox
equivalent anti-oxidant capacity) white tea was twice as effective as green tea.
While the above data is promising and may indicate superiority of white tea as a
skin rejuvenation agent, more studies are needed to confirm the above findings.
Even more useful would be to conduct double-blind clinical trials of the effects of
topical and/or oral white tea (compared to green tea and placebo) on skin aging
and/or skin conditions.
How to use white tea in your skin care
Until more research is available, we cannot fully determine the extent of skin
benefits of white tea. Nonetheless white tea seems likely to be at least as good
for your skin as green tea, and possibly better. If you plan on trying some form of
tea-based skin treatment, you may want to consider white tea or a mixture of
green and white teas.
As a skin care agent, white tea can be used in essentially the same ways as
green tea (see our green tea and skin for details). In particular, white tea can be
included in a variety of topical formulas, such as creams, lotions, serums, toners
and cleansers. Oral consumption of white tea as a drink or a nutritional
supplement may also benefit the skin.
It is unclear whether commercial white or green tea creams retain the activity of
tea extract. This is likely to vary from product to product yet credible product
comparison data are hard to find. In such context, a do-it-yourself approach is a
viable alternative for white and/or green tea formulas. It is more cost effective
and helps to ensure freshness and potency (see our article Do-It-Yourself AntiAging Skin Care).
Related Links
Tea (Wikipedia)
Green tea and the skin
Research studies related to skin benefits of green tea
Matrix metalloproteinases (MMP)
Inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinases
Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase & anti-oxidant activities of 21 plants
Theaflavins in Black Tea and Catechins in Green Tea Are Equally
Effective Antioxidants
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Inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases: a new skin care frontier
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What is the best way to keep a vital resource plentiful? Is it to produce more of it
or to conserve the existing stock? You would think I am talking about oil supply
or grain crop. Yet, I am talking about the skin, or, more precisely the skin matrix.
Skin matrix is what would remain if one were to remove all cells from the skin. It
is a framework that holds the skin together and consists mainly of intermeshed
polymers such as collagen and elastin.
The skin matrix is responsible for the skin's mechanical properties, including
firmness, strength, suppleness and elasticity. To a large degree, the signs of skin
aging reflect the condition of the skin matrix - the weaker and less regular the
matrix, the more wrinkles, roughness and sag one tends to have.
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Indeed, the skin matrix is a precious resource, which, just like oil or food, is both
produced and consumed. On one hand, skin matrix is continuously synthesized
by fibroblasts. On the other hand, whenever it is damaged, malformed or worn
out, skin matrix is broken down by the enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases
(MMP) and then recycled. But chopping up key matrix proteins, such as collagen
and elastin, MMP enzymes play an underappreciated yet critical role in skin
physiology. (See our article on MMP enzymes too learn more.)
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In a healthy, youthful skin, the synthesis and degradation of the matrix are in
balance: damaged or redundant matrix is degraded while the deficit is
replenished by the ongoing syhthesis. Unfortunately, this intricate balance gets
disrupted as we age: too little of the matrix is synthesized and too much is
degraded. As with any supply-demand imbalance, it can be improved by either
increasing supply (boosting synthesis of the matrix) or reducing demand
(inhibiting the breakdown).
Many of the well-known skin rejuvenation treatments are aimed at replenishing
skin matrix by stimulating the synthesis of collagen or elastin (e.g. ascorbic acid,
copper peptides, palmitoyl pentapeptide, topical estrogens and other anti-aging
treatments). Unfortunately, this approach fails or falls short in some people,
presumably due to individual variations in skin chemistry. Besides, the ability to
respond to matrix synthesis boosters is known to decline with age.
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What's a girl (or a boy) to do, if matrix synthesis boosters have failed her? If you
can't produce enough -- conserve! Try to reverse or reduce the loss of skin
matrix by inhibiting or reducing the levels of MMP enzymes. This may especially
benefit older individuals since research indicates that MMP levels rise
excessively with age. It makes a good sense to try to return MMP levels to
normal youthful levels, which are sufficient to remove the damaged matrix but
allow you to preserve the healthy one.
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But what can be done to inhibit MMP enzymes? Unfortunately, the development
of practically useful MMP inhibitors by drug companies has met with only limited
success so far. As of the time of this writing, the only MMP inhibitor available as
a drug is doxycycline hyclate (Periostat), a compound that inhibits MMP-1 (a.k.a.
type I collagenase) and possibly also MMP-2, MMP-8 and MMP-9. The
approved use of doxycycline hyclate is periodontal disease, where it helps
strengthen connective matrix in the gums. Theoretically, it may help to treat
wrinkles if used topically, but studies are needed to determine safety and efficacy
of such use.
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/mmpinhibitors.html[24/01/2012 22:10:40]
If MMP inhibitor drugs are not ready, what else can be done to reduce skin
matrix degradation? Here's some steps to consider:
Reduce or eliminate exposure to environmental factors that
stimulate the synthesis of MMP. This includes sunlight (UVA and
UVB), chlorinated water, smoking and anything that causes
irritation, inflammation and production of free radicals.
Use skin care ingredients with anti-inflammatory activity.
Research shows that inflammation increases the levels of MMP
enzymes whereas anti-inflammatory agents have the opposite
effect. In particular, two different classes of anti-inflammatory
agents, so-called COX inhibitors and 5-LOX inhibitors, have been
shown to reduce MMP activity. (COX, a.k.a cyclooxygenase, and
5-LOX, a.k.a. 5-lypooxygenase, are the key enzymes involved in
the development if inflammatory response.)
Unfortunately, there is not enough data to determine which, if any,
of the numerous COX and 5-LOX inhibitors are best for topical use
against skin matrix degradation. One possible candidate is
boswellic acid, a natural 5-LOX inhibitor found in Boswellia serrata
tree. Boswellia serrata extracts are being used by a number of skin
care companies in anti-wrinkles products. Whether these
companies rely on their proprietary unpublished studies or
educated guesses remains unclear.
Another candidate is resveratol, a natural compound found in
grapes, known to have a variety of beneficial effects, including
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity (resveratol inhibits COX
and possibly other mediators of inflammation). Skin care products
with resveratol are relatively common although I am not aware of
any published studies investigating its effect on wrinkles and skin
aging.
Finally, lipoic acid, a conditionally essential nutrient, appears to
have some anti-inflammatory activity and thus might help indirectly
inhibit MMP. In fact, there is some evidence that topical lipoic acid
might have anti-wrinkle effects (see our lipoic acid article).
Consider botanicals shown to inhibit MMP enzymes. Some
plant extracts have been shown to inhibit MMP enzymes, either in
test tube (in vitro) or when used to treat certain conditions. For
example, extracts from Butcher's broom rhizome (Ruscus
aculeatus) were shown to inhibit elastase (the MMP that breaks
down elastin). This is consistent with its proven beneficial effects
on venous insufficiency, a condition linked to varicose veins. It is
likely that Butcher's broom's ability to strengthen veins is, at least in
part, due to elastase inhibition. We may speculate that applying
Butcher's broom extracts topically may firm the skin via the same
mechanism. But until studies are conducted, this will remain a
hypothesis.
There is preliminary evidence that tea extract may inhibit MMP. In
a 2009 study, white tea extract was shown to inhibit two key
subtypes of MMP (collagenase and elastase) at surprisingly low
concentration. Green tea was also effective albeit less so than
white tea. Unfortunately, this was only a test-tube study so the
result should be interpreted with caution. However, considering that
tea (especially green and white) is already known for other skin
and health benefits, this data may be another reason to give it a
try. (See our articles on white tea and green tea.)
A specially prepared digest of soy protein (a.k.a. soy peptide
complex or soy hydrolysate) appears to inhibit some MMP
enzymes. Unfortunately, the evidence is preliminary and more
research is needed. Soy extracts and hydrolysates have been used
in skin care for years. Some soy-based skin care products may,
theoretically, inhibit MMP enzymes in the skin. But again, more
research is required to confirm that as well as to determine which
soy derivatives work best.
The bottom line
There are two main approaches to maintaining and rebuilding skin matrix. One is
to stimulate its synthesis, the other is to inhibit its degradation. At present, the
agents stimulating matrix synthesis (particularly collagen boosters) are better
researched and supported by clinical evidence. In most cases, it is reasonable to
try them first. But sometimes (particularly in older people) they have little or no
effect. In that case, one should consider taking steps to minimize matrix
degradation by inhibiting or reducing the levels of MMP enzymes. As discussed
above, the methods to do that are emerging. Unfortunately, they are still some
distance away from the prime time.
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Furfuryladenine (Kinetin) for skin health and rejuvenation
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Furfuryladenine is a plant-derived growth factor/regulator (cytokine) claimed to
reduce wrinkles, fine lines and other signs of skin aging without causing skin
irritation. Furfuryladenine (or N6-furfuryladenine to be scientifically precise) is
often called by its trade name Kinetin and, less often, by another trade name
Kinerase.
Furfuryladenine has been hailed as a non-irritating alternative to tretinoin (Retin
A). Unfortunately only a few studies of furfuryladenine's effectiveness have been
conducted so far. One often touted study indicated that topical furfuryladenine at
0.1% concentration may be equivalent or superior in its effectiveness to tretinoin
(Retin A) while producing no or little side-effects in most people. However, to my
knowledge, this study was sponsored by a skin care manufacturer and not
published in a peer-reviewed journal.
Nonetheless there is some credible, properly published research suggestive of
furfuryladenine's potential to produce skin benefits. In a 1994 study (published in
Biochemical & Biophysical Research Communications), Drs Rattan and Clark
found that in tissue culture furfuryladenine delayed the onset of aging
characteristics in human fibroblasts, the key type of skin cells. A 2000 study
conducted by Dr Verbeke and co-workers in the Danish Center for Molecular
Gerontology reported that furfuryladenine inhibited in the test tube the process of
glycation, one of the key mechanisms of aging.
It appears that furfuryladenine (kinetin) may also be useful in certain specific skin
conditions, especially those associated with inflammation. Dr Wu and colleagues
from the University of California, Irvine studied the effects of topical 0.1% kinetin
twice-daily on the signs and symptoms of rosacea. The results, published in the
journal of Clinical Experimental Dermatology in 2007, indicated both
effectiveness and safety of kinetin as a rosacea treatment.
At this point, furfuryladenine appears promising but more and better-designed
studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness. If the benefits of furfuryladenine
are reliably proved it may indeed become a superior alternative to Retin A,
particularly for wrinkles in sensitive areas such as under eyes. The potential of
furfuryladenine to treat inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea is also intriguing but, again, requires further research.
As with many promising skin care agents, a question may arise whether to wait
for more definitive research or just go ahead and give it try. While your answer
may depend your personality, philosophy, patience (or lack thereof) as much as
science, consider that furfuryladenine appears to have a reasonably favorable
side effect profile, so trying it out may be less risky than trying some of the
alternatives. (Still keep in mind that almost no skin care agent is completely riskfree in all circumstances.)
Currently furfuryladenine is sold under two trade names Kinetin and Kinerase.
Products containing furfuryladenine tend to be relatively expensive. This is not
necessarily justified by the price of furfuryladenine itself. While furfuryladenine is
not as cheep as, say, vitamin C, it is not under a patent (at least not anymore)
and has quite reasonable wholesale price reflecting a healthy competition among
producers. This makes do-it-yourself approach a very cost-effective alternative.
You can purchase kinetin stock solution and create your own formula.
Furfuryladenine appears to combine well with many vehicles and other actives,
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/furfuryladenine_kinetin.html[24/01/2012 22:10:59]
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/furfuryladenine_kinetin.html[24/01/2012 22:10:59]
Progesterone, a hope for a safer skin-revitalizing hormone.
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Skin Biology
Progesterone, a hope for a safer skin-revitalizing
hormone.
Biology of Aging
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It has been established in several studies that topical estrogens produce
significant skin improvements in women at or after the menopause, i.e. in women
whose levels of estrogens are low. (See our article on topical estrogens.) While
systemic effects of small amounts of topical estrogens appear to be rather small,
some concerns remain. Oral estrogen replacement has been shown to increase
the risk of breast cancer in some studies. There are understandable concerns
that possible systemic effects of topical estrogens, however small, might
contribute to breast cancer risk.
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Wouldn't it be great to have a hormone with similar skin benefits, but practically
risk-free for topical use. Well, there may be such a hormone. In addition to
estrogens, ovaries produce another class of hormones call progestins, most
notably progesterone. The levels of progesterone also decline during menopause
but replacing it does not seem to increase the risk of breast cancer.
What if progesterone had a role similar to estrogens in skin health and could be
used topically to prevent or partly reverse menopausal skin deterioration? A
study published in The British Journal of Dermatology in September 2005 seems
to point in that direction. This 16-week study in 40 women, conducted by Dr.
Holzer and colleagues, evaluated the effects of 2% progesterone cream on
function and texture of the skin in women at or after menopause. The study
design was robust: double-blind, placebo-controlled, and randomized. The
results showed 23% increase in skin firmness, 29% reduction in wrinkle count
near the eye and almost 10% reduction of the depth of laugh lines. No serious
side-effects were observed.
While this is a welcome finding, many questions remain. Will the results be
confirmed in further studies? Could topical progesterone benefit pre-menopausal
women as well? Or even men? Could a properly balanced topical formula
combining estrogens and progesterone yield more skin benefits than either agent
alone?
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A prudent approach would be to wait till more studies are available before trying
topical progesterone. However, when it comes to beauty, some people choose
hope over prudence. Fortunately, if you give topical progesterone a try before
definitive research is available, the damage, if any, is far more likely to be only to
your wallet rather than your health. Whatever your attitude may be, talk to your
gynecologist before trying any topical hormones.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/progesterone.html[24/01/2012 22:11:06]
Progesterone, a hope for a safer skin-revitalizing hormone.
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/progesterone.html[24/01/2012 22:11:06]
Niacinamide: Can you teach an old vitamin new skin care tricks?
Skin Care 101
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Niacinamide: Can you teach an old vitamin new skin
care tricks?
Biology of Aging
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Skin Conditions
The track record of topical vitamins in skin rejuvenation has been mixed at best.
Most seem to be ineffective. A few, such as vitamins A and C, do provide some
benefits if properly stabilized and applied in sufficient concentrations. It appears
that another vitamin, niacinamide, should be added to this select group.
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Niacinamide is one of the two principal forms of vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid is the
other). Niacinamide serves as a precursor of NADH and NADPH, which are coenzymes (facilitators of enzymatic reactions) essential for numerous metabolic
pathways. In particular, these co-enzymes play a key role in metabolism of
glucose, cellular energy production, synthesis of lipids and so forth. The levels of
NADH / NADPH decrease with age, and topical niacinamide appears to reverse
the decline. Niacinamide also appears to have some antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Furthermore, niacinamide is stable, safe and well
tolerated in topical formulations even at relatively high concentrations. All of the
above suggests that niacinamide, theoretically, may be useful in skin
rejuvenation and some skin conditions. However, if theory always translated into
practice, we would already be running our cars on cold fusion rather than
gasoline. Fortunately, some research supporting practical uses of topical
niacinamide is already available.
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In a randomized controlled study, 4% niacinamide gel has been compared to 1%
clindamycin gel (a topical antibiotic) in 76 patients with moderate acne. After 8
weeks, 82% of patients treated with niacinamide and 68% of those treated with
clindamycin were considered improved. There were no side effects in either
group. The researches suggested that anti-inflammatory activity of niacinamide
may have contributed to its effect on acne.
The main downside of antibiotics is the emergence of resistant microorganisms.
If further research confirms that niacinamide is at least as effective as topical
antibiotics, it may become a treatment of choice for many acne sufferers
because it does not gives rise to microbial resistance.
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Rosacea is a condition associated with excessive skin redness, irritability,
sensitivity and inflammation. In one study, niacinamide was shown to improve
skin barrier function in rosacea patients, leading to diminished reaction to
irritants, such as detergents. In another study, treatment with 1methylnicotinamide (metabolite of niacinamide with known anti-inflammatory
effects) resulted in improvement in 26 out of 34 treated subjects. Further
research is clearly indicated.
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Unfortunately, the research of the niacinamide's potential for skin rejuvenation is
in relatively early stages. However, the few existing studies produced promising
results. One study showed niacinamide to increase the skin's production of
ceramides (natural emollients and skin protectants), thus improving skin
hydration. Another study demonstrated mitigating effects of niacinamide on some
of the deleterious effects of UV light.
Of particular interest, is a well designed (double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/niacinamide.html[24/01/2012 22:11:24]
Niacinamide: Can you teach an old vitamin new skin care tricks?
face, left-right randomized) 12-week study in 50 women of the effects of 5%
topical niacinamide on various signs of skin aging. The researchers reported
significant improvement in fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture
and red blotchiness. (While well designed, the study was sponsored by Proctor
and Gamble, so a potential for bias cannot be ruled out.)
Bottom line
On theoretical grounds, niacinamide has a substantial promise as a versatile skin
care and rejuvenation agent. The evidence of practical benefits seems to be
accumulating but more research is needed for definitive conclusions. However,
considering its well-researched biochemistry, stability and good safety profile,
topical niacinamide may be worth a try even before more studies have been
completed.
While niacinamide itself is almost literally dirt-cheap, niacinamide-based skin
care products are not ubiquitous and may be expensive. On the other hand,
stability, solubility and safety of niacinamide, make it a good candidate for a doit-yourself approach. (See DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack for specific
instructions).
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/niacinamide.html[24/01/2012 22:11:24]
Smart Skin Care: Oat beta-glucan's anti-wrinkle promise
Skin Care 101
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Oat beta-glucan's anti-wrinkle promise
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Everybody knows that "it is easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle
than for a rich man to enter the kingdom of God. " Everybody in the cosmetic
industry knows that it is almost as hard to make large biopolymers, like proteins
or glucosaminoglycans, penetrate deeply into the skin when applied in a cream.
In fact, transdermal delivery of growth factors and other large, highly specific
actives is as close to the Holy Grail of skin care as a topical treatment can get.
Surprisingly, preliminary research indicates that a biopolymer from oat called
beta-glucan may be capable of both penetrating deep into the skin and
delivering significant skin benefits. Beta-glucan is a linear polymer consisting of
glucose molecules linked together in a particular fashion. It has a long history of
safe use in skin care and dermatology as a long-lasting, film-forming moisturizer.
It has also been shown to work as anti-irritant and to speed up healing of shallow
abrasions and partial thickness burns. Beta-glucan appears to enhance wound
healing through several mechanisms including the stimulation of collagen
deposition, activation of immune cells and so forth. Beta-glucans are found in
various natural sources, such as cereals and yeast; oat beta-glucan being the
most active.
While the utility of beta-glucan in moisturizing and healing minor wounds and
burns has been fairly well established, the evidence of its anti-wrinkle effects on
the intact skin has emerged only recently. In a 2005 study published in the
magazine of International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, Dr Pillai
and colleagues investigated skin penetration and anti-aging effects of topical oat
beta-glucan. In a penetration experiment on isolated skin sections, the
researchers found that beta-glucan penetrated the epidermis and reached the
dermis by passing in the gaps between cells. After 8 hours of treatment with
0.5% beta-glucan solution, 28% of the applied beta-glucan entered the skin and
as much as 4% reached the dermis (i.e. the layer where wrinkles form).
Unfortunately, the validity of this experiment remains in question because the
skin sections used in the experiment were frozen and then treated with gamma
radiation, which may have altered their permeability. Dr Pillai and colleagues also
treated 27 subjects with 0.1 % topical beta-glucan or placebo twice daily for
eight weeks, assigned randomly, using a half-face design. By the end of the
study, beta-glucan treated areas fared significantly better than placebo, with
wrinkles and roughness diminishing by about 10-15%. Skin firmness (tensile
strength) also increased.
The evidence of beta-glucan's effects on the intact skin is encouraging but a
number of questions remain. Will these results be confirmed by other
researchers and via different methods? Is such skin firming sustainable in the
long term with or without continued use? Assuming beta-glucan indeed
stimulates collagen deposition in the intact skin, what is the mechanism of this
effect? Dr Pillai and colleagues theorize that beta-glucan stimulates collagen by
inducing the release of immune/inflammatory mediators, such as IL-1 and NFkB.
If true, stimulating inflammatory response may not be the optimal way to
strengthen the collagen network because inflammation may have negative side
effects. Also, the ratio of collagen types deposited in response to inflammation
may not be optimal in the long term. On the other hand, oat beta-glucan has a
long history of safe use. Furthermore, many skin rejuvenation methods, including
skin peels, dermabrasion, laser treatments and others work via controlled skin
damage, which induces inflammation and subsequent collagen deposition and
skin remodeling.
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/betaglucan.html[24/01/2012 22:11:43]
Smart Skin Care: Oat beta-glucan's anti-wrinkle promise
What does all this mean for practical skin care? The most prudent approach is
to wait for more research on beta-glucan. This may take a long time though.
Skin care research has low profile in terms of funding and beta-glucan
formulations are hard to patent because it is a natural ingredient. On the other
hand, oat beta-glucan has a long history of safe use in skin care and may be
worth a try even before definitive research is available. The simplest way to give
it a try is to use a moisturizer containing colloidal oatmeal such as Aveeno.
Unfortunately, it is unclear whether products with colloidal oatmeal contain
sufficient amounts of oat beta-glucan to match those used in the study. Also,
when beta-glucan is mostly trapped inside colloidal oatmeal particles, its capacity
to penetrate the skin, if any, may be reduced. Nonetheless, colloidal oatmeal is
an effective and long-lasting moisturizing ingredient and anti-irritant. People with
dry skin may want to try a colloidal oatmeal product for the sake of skin
hydration and soothing if nothing else.
Skin care products containing purified oat beta-glucan (rather than whole
oatmeal) do exist but are few. Also, they are hard to compare as they rarely
have beta-glucan concentration stated on the label. Do-it-yourself approach is
also an option. While pure oat beta-glucan may be difficult to find in retail
amounts, highly enriched extracts are available and may be incorporated in DIY
skin care formulations. (See DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack for specific
instructions).
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/betaglucan.html[24/01/2012 22:11:43]
Hyaluronic acid for skin hydration and possibly a lot more
Skin Care 101
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Skin Protection
Skin Biology
Hyaluronic acid for skin hydration and possibly a lot
more
Biology of Aging
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a biopolymer naturally occurring is the skin and other
tissues. It is an important component of the skin matrix. HA is also a popular
skin care ingredient often used topically. To learn what this underappreciated
biopolymer is all about we strongly recommend starting with our introductory
article on HA. Here we focus on possible skin benefits and limitations of topical
hyaluronic acid.
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Hyaluronic acid is highly effective humectant, i.e. an ingredient that holds
moisture. HA can hold hundreds of times its weight in water and is often used in
moisturizing formulas. Indeed it can provide effective skin surface hydration,
either alone or in combination with other moisturizing ingredients.
However, there is a controversy whether concentrated HA formulas should be
used as a moisturizer in dry climate. When air humidity is very low, HA may
preferentially pull water from the skin rather than from the air, thus producing the
opposite effect. The optimal use of HA as a moisturizer needs further research.
Until then, when trying out HA-based products, it is prudent to be watchful for
such an effect, especially in very dry environments. If proper skin hydration is
not achieved, you can try adjusting HA concentration and/or combine your HAbased formulation with other skin care products. If you are using a commercial
HA product, you can dilute it with a compatible neutral base and/or co-apply with
a compatible hydrating product (e.g. a colloidal oatmeal-based moisturizer, such
as Aveeno). If you need additional flexibility regarding the concentration of HA
and/or combining it with other ingredients, you can easily make an HA-based
formulation yourself (see DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack for practical
directions).
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Hyaluronic acid is a polymer and the size of its molecules (chains) may vary in a
wide range. Depending on the size, HA chains may produce different
physiological effects. In particular, relatively large HA chains (molecular weight
500,000 Da or more) appear to reduce inflammatory response. There is some
evidence that topically applied HA can reduce skin irritation from various causes
(such as retinoids, laser treatments, chemical peels and others). Unfortunately,
as of the time of this writing, very few studies investigated HA as a topical antiirritant. Further research is required to determine optimal HA concentrations and
usage patterns for specific conditions. (The concentrations studied so far ranged
from 0.1% to 2.5%.)
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Actinic keratoses (AKs, solar keratoses) are premalignant inflammatory skin
lesions particularly common in fair skinned people who had substantial
cumulative sun exposure. In several studies, a topical formula with 2.5% HA and
3% diclofenac (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug) produced marked
improvement or complete clearance of AK lesions in at least half of the patients
after 90 days. HA alone also produced improvement in some patients but overall
was less effective than the combination.
Wrinkles
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/hyaluronic-acid.html[24/01/2012 22:12:01]
The content of hyaluronic acid in the skin matrix decreases with age, which may
contribute to the development of fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging.
Hence there is a considerable enthusiasm in the media about topical HA as a
potential wrinkle cure. At present, such hopes appear exaggerated at best. HA
variants typically used in skin care have relatively long chains (molecular weight
500,000 Da or more) and seem unlikely to penetrate the skin well enough to
affect dermal matrix. A small size variant of HA (5,000 - 20,000 Daltons) may
penetrate better but there is a catch. Small size HA appears to promote certain
inflammatory responses, i.e. in that regard it has the opposite effect to large size
HA, which is anti-inflammatory. Therefore, even if small size HA can penetrate
the skin, it may not be a good skin rejuvenation agent. (To learn more, see our
our introductory article on HA.) More research is needed to determine whether
any form of topical HA is useful in treating fine line and wrinkles.
Bottom line
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural biopolymer that can be very effective for skin
hydration and moisturizing if used properly. Preliminary evidence suggests that
large size HA may also help combat skin irritation and inflammation. The
effectiveness of topical HA for wrinkles is unproven.
There are many commercially available products that contain hyaluronic acid.
Unfortunately, most are relatively expensive (at least compared to the cost of
ingredients) and may not contain HA concentrations that fit your needs. If you
cannot find a HA-based product optimal for your skin, you can relatively easily
make one yourself. For practical direction on making your own skincare
formulations, including those with hyaluronic acid, see DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care
Infopack.
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Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), a gentler wrinkle cure candidate.
Skin Care 101
Skin Care Basics
Skin Protection
Skin Biology
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), a gentler wrinkle
cure candidate.
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Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) is a skin rejuvenation compound developed
by Sederma corporation in collaboration with Proctor & Gamble. It was originally
named palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and later renamed to palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
to reflect a correction in the data on its molecular structure. It has been included
in a variety of commercial skin care formulas under the trademark Matrixyl.
Please note that Matrixyl is distinct from its similar sounding distant cousin
Matrixyl 3000.
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The proponents claim that palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is at least as effective
against wrinkles as retinol but does not cause skin irritation, which is a common
side-effect of retinoids.
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So, is there any science under the hype? Chemically speaking, palmitoyl
pentapeptide-4 (Pal-KTTKS) is a relatively small molecule. It consists of five
amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid to enhance oil solubility
for the sake of better skin penetration. It is structurally related to the precursor of
collagen type I (a.k.a. procollagen type I). Researchers found that when added to
the culture of fibroblasts (the key skin cells), palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 stimulated
the synthesis of the key constituents of the skin matrix: collagen, elastin and
glucosamnoglycans. How exactly palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 did that remains
unclear, although a number of theories exist.
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Unfortunately, the ability to improve the productivity of skin cells in the test tube,
does not always translate into an effective anti aging treatment. Less than one in
ten promising test tube discoveries ever becomes an established therapy.
Clinical studies of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 do exist but all of them (to my
knowledge as of the day of this writing) have been conducted or sponsored by
the manufacturers (Sedema and Proctor & Gamble). This does not necessarily
make the studies biased, but potential conflict of interests is always a red flag.
Unfortunately, this situation is typical. Early studies of patented chemicals are
almost always sponsored by manufacturers. It usually takes a long time before
completely independent research is conducted.
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So far, clinical data are encouraging. One study demonstrated that palmitoyl
pentapeptide-4 was as effective as retinol in repairing sun-damaged skin but
was devoid of side-effects. Most other studies showed at least some
improvement in various objective and subjective measures of wrinkles. No side
effects have been reported.
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Unfortunately, the clinical data is still too skimpy to view palmitoyl pentapeptide4 as a proven anti-wrinkle treatment at this time. So, should you wait? Or is
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 worth a try today? There is no universal answer to this
question. If your skin care budget is tight, you may not want to spend your hard
earned cash on "perhaps-effective" products. On the other hand, if you have
cash to burn and/or other alternatives didn't work, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, with
its good safety profile, may be worth a try. palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 may also be
considered as a nonirritating fall back option for people who develop skin
irritation in response to retinoids or alpha-hydroxy acids.
If you decide to try palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, keep in mind that its concentration
in a product should be sufficiently high (e.g. matching the levels used in the
clinical studies). There is a large price variation between different palmitoyl
pentapeptide-4 products, although none are dirt-cheap. However, the price does
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/pentapeptide.html[24/01/2012 22:12:20]
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), a gentler wrinkle cure candidate.
not always reflect the concentration of the active ingredient. It may reflect
prestige of the brand, advertising overhead, sophistication of packaging and so
forth. Be wise. Make sure you are paying a fair price per until of the
pentapeptide. For recommended palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 concentrations, clinical
data and details see Skin Rejuvenation Infopack.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/pentapeptide.html[24/01/2012 22:12:20]
Matrixyl 3000 (palmitoyl oligopeptide & palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7): Back to the future of skin care
Skin Care 101
Skin Care Basics
Skin Protection
Skin Biology
Biology of Aging
Matrixyl 3000
(palmitoyl oligopeptide & palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7)
Back to the future of anti-aging skin care
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Matrixyl 3000 is a relatively new skin care ingredient sometimes promoted as a
new and improved version of Matrixyl. Both Matrixyl 3000 and "classic" Matrixyl
were delevoped by the Sederma corporation and are incorporated, usually
separately, in a variety of skin care products on the market. The naming
suggesting that Matrixyl 3000 is related to Matrixyl might be an attempt to
leverage the popularity of the original Matrixyl. In fact, the only relationship
between the two is that both are based on peptides and aim at stimulating the
synthesis and replenishment of the skin matrix (the skin's structural framework).
Their trademark name similarity notwithstanding, Matrixyl 3000 and "classic"
Matrixyl are chemically dissimilar except that both are based on peptides (small
protein fragments representing short chains of amino acids). Specifically, Matrixyl
3000 is a combination of the two peptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl
tetrapeptide-7, whereas "classic" Matrixyl is a trademark name for the peptide
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. In this article, we review Matrixyl 3000 and its
components. For details on the "classic" version, see our article on the original
Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4).
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Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide (Pal-GHK) is one of the two active ingredients in Matrixyl
3000. It consists of a short chain of three amino acids (a.k.a. GHK peptide or
glycine-histidine-lysine) connected to palmitic acid. Palmitic acid is a fatty acid
added to improve the peptide's oil solubility and thus skin penetration. The
peptide GHK is a fragment of type I collagen molecule and is believed to serve
as a biological indicator of increased degradation of the skin matrix. Indeed,
when collagen is degraded, more of its small fragments get created in the body,
including GHK. Furthermore, GHK is believed to stimulate the feedback loop
triggering the synthesis of new collagen as well as other components of the skin
matrix. When the key skin matrix-producing cells (fibroblasts) detect increased
levels of GHK, they "assume" that the skin matrix is being lost at a higher rate
and begin synthesizing it more vigorously. Thus, Pal-GHK (a version of GHK
designed for better skin penetration) is intended to stimulate skin matrix
replenishment via topical application, leading, presumably, to wrinkle reduction,
skin firming and other benefits.
Another interesting point about the GHK is that it is a part of another well known
skin care ingredient, the copper peptide Cu-GHK. Copper peptides are known to
improve wound healing, activate skin remodeling, improve the structure of skin
matrix, reduce scarring and exert other beneficial effects on the skin. The skin
benefits of copper peptides are relatively well researched and established (see
our article on copper peptides) In fact, most of the research showing the benefits
of copper peptides has been done using Cu-GHK, which consists of the copper
atom (in the ionized form) bound to the GHK peptide.
In that light, we can hypothesize that Pal-GHK may act at least partly via the
same mechanism as Cu-GHK. At the first glance, this appears unlikely because
the benefits of copper peptides are believed to be contingent on their copper
component. However, it is possible that the addition of the palmitic acid to the
GHK increases its skin concentration so much that even the normally low levels
of copper in the skin suffice to activate it. It is also conceivable that many of the
effects of Cu-GHK are due to the GHK peptide rather than copper and can be
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/palmitoyl-oligopeptide-palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7-matrixyl-3000.html[24/01/2012 22:12:39]
reproduced using a highly penetrating version Pal-GHK alone. Thus, it would be
very useful to find out whether Pal-GHK and Cu-GHK indeed work at least partly
via the same mechanism and, if so, what are comparative advantages and
disadvantages of each. Unfortunately, such research is yet to be conducted.
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Pal-GQPR) is another active ingredient in Matrixyl
3000. (It was also formerly known and marketed as palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3.)
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 consists of a short chain of four amino acids (a.k.a.
GQPR peptide or glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine) connected to palmitic acid.
Palmitic acid is a fatty acid added to improve the peptide's oil solubility and thus
skin penetration.
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is believed to work by reducing the production of
interleukin-6 (IL-6) by the the key skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts. IL-6 is
a molecule that promotes inflammation, which, in turn, leads to faster
degradation of the skin matrix and thus contributes to the development of
wrinkles and loss of skin firmness and elasticity. By reducing the levels of IL-6
and possibly other inflammation mediators, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is thought to
slow down the degradation of the skin matrix and may also stimulate its
replenishment.
Matrixyl 3000 as a synergistic combination
Matrixyl 3000 combines palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 not
just because two active ingredients are better then one. According to the
Sederma corporation, these two peptides produce a synergy when used
together, i.e. the skin benefits of such combination are greater than what one
would expect if each agent's effects were independent of each other. Here's a
fictitious example of synergy to illustrate my point: Ingredient A causes a 10%
improvement and ingredient B causes a 15% percent improvement whereas A+B
combo causes a 60% improvement (as opposed to the expected 25%
improvement).
According to Sederma, the synergy between palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl
tetrapeptide-7 is dramatic. They reported a tissue culture study where Matrixyl
3000 increased the synthesis of skin matrix roughly 2.5-3.5 times. In particular,
the synthesis of collagen type I increased by 258%, fibronectin - by 164% and
hyaluronic acid - by 179%.
Sederma also reported a small human study involving two groups of 24
volunteers where Matrixyl 3000 performed considerably better than placebo and
somewhat better than "classic" Matrixyl, including the following beneficial effects
after two month of daily application * :
Reduction in main wrinkle depth (-15%) and volume (-18%)
Reduction in roughness (-14%)
Reduction in complexity (-16%), "lifting" parameter
Decrease in the area occupied by deep wrinkles (>200 microns) (-44%), 37% decrease in density
Increase in skin tone (+15%)
* For details, see complete report from Sedema Matrixyl 3000 study
Unfortunately, despite plausible theoretical grounds regarding the mechanisms of
action of Matrixyl 3000, the not-yet-rational exuberance about it may be
premature. Numerous agents holding theoreical promise and/or positive effects in
a test tube fail to deliver in properly conducted human clinical studies. As of the
time of this writing, there are very few published studies of palmitoyl oligopeptide
or palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and none of those seem to be independent.
Furthermore, the only clinical evidence of the benefits of their combination (i.e.
Matrixyl 3000) appears to come from the report by Sedema corporation. This is a
far cry from the gold standard, i.e. unbiased, independent clinical studies
published in well known peer reviewed biomedical journals. Until such studies
are available, the combination of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl
tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000) will remain a promising but unproven treatment.
Best practices, safety and costs
Based on the data reported by Sedema corporation, Matrixyl 3000 appear to
produce maximum effect at the concentration around 10-15 ppm (combined for
both peptides). However, the data is limited and uncorroborated by other sources
and valid only for tissue culture. Therefore, the question about optimal strength of
Matrixyl 3000 in skin care formulas remains open. The concentration in the
formulas used in Sedema's human study was 3%. In its literature, Sedema
recommends the range of concentrations from 3% to 8%. Notably, this
percentage is calculated based on the Sedema's proprietary stock solution of
Matrixyl 3000 (of undisclosed strength) rather than pure peptides.
Based on the data from Sedema corporation as well as user feedback, Matrixyl
3000 appears to be virtually free of any obvious side effects in short-term use.
The effects and side effects of its long-term use are unknown.
There is a large price variation between different products containing Matrixyl
3000, although none are dirt-cheap. However, the price does not always reflect
the concentration of the active ingredients. It may reflect prestige of the brand,
advertising overhead, sophistication of packaging and so forth. Be wise. Make
sure you are paying a fair price per until of the active peptides.
Another cost-cutting alternative is to purchase Matrixyl 3000 stock solution and
create your own formula. Matrixyl 3000 appears to combine well with many
vehicles and other actives, which makes a DIY option easy to implement. For
specific instructions see DIY Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack.
Bottom line
Matrixyl 3000 is a synergistic combination of two skin active peptides, palmitoyl
oligopeptide and palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7, which appears promising based on
both the proposed mechansism of action and preliminary data from the
manufacturer (Sedema corporation). However, it remains to be proven effective
by independent published clinical studies. Considering its seemingly good safety
profile, Matrixyl 3000 may be worth a try even before such studies are available - for example, if more established agents are ineffective or irritating in your
particular case.
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Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline): an alternative to Botox or wishful thinking in a jar?
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Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline): an alternative to
Botox or wishful thinking in a jar?
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The quest for a Botox alternative is a popular pursuit among both skin care
manufacturers and consumers. While Botox is highly effective in reducing motion
wrinkles, it is expensive, requires physician-administered injections, and
occasionally leads to side effects, such as droopy eyelids (see our article on
Botox for details). Not surprisingly, products touted as Botox alternatives keep
popping up. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name Argireline) is one of the
seemingly promising new Botox alternatives.
Argireline is manufactured by a Spanish company Lipotec and is a hexapeptide
(a chain of 6 amino acids) attached to the acetic acid residue. It is believed to
work by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters. When applied to the skin,
Argireline supposedly relaxes facial tension leading to the reduction in facial lines
and wrinkles with regular use. This remotely resembles the effect of Botox, which
reduces facial tension and movement by paralyzing facial muscles. Note that
Argireline is unrelated in its physiologic effect and mechanism of action to other
bioactive skin peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide.
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So far, the evidence to support the benefits of Argireline is skimpy at best. In a
clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, acetyl
hexapeptide-3 at a 10% concentration has been shown to reduce the depth of
wrinkles up to 30% after 30 days of use. There are no other credible clinical
studies to be found. The benefits and adverse effects of long-term use, if any,
are unknown.
Is it worth a try? The rationale behind Argireline is plausible enough and
eventually it may be validated by research as a safe and effective wrinkle fighter.
However, at this point neither its effectiveness nor safety can be considered even tentatively proven. Besides, Argireline-based products are not particularly cheap,
even compared to Botox. However, I am not sure if their prices reflect a large
novelty-hype premium or high costs of the concentrated (10% or more is
required) active ingredient. If it's the former, the prices may eventually decline.
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There is one more concern worth mentioning. Botox injections target specific
muscles, whereas Argireline (if it indeed works) is likely to relax most of your
face. And while Argireline may reduce wrinkles, it may also, in theory, increase
facial sag because the neurotransmitters whose release Argireline inhibits, help
maintain facial firmness. Notably, a popular firming skin care ingredient DMAE
firms by stimulating the release of neurotransmitters and increasing facial
tension, i.e. by producing roughly the opposite effect to Argireline. Whether
Argireline may indeed contribute to facial sag has not been studied. Until more is
known, people prone to facial sag should approach Argireline with caution and
monitor their facial firmness while on it.
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http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/acetylhexapeptide.html[24/01/2012 22:12:45]
Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline): an alternative to Botox or wishful thinking in a jar?
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/acetylhexapeptide.html[24/01/2012 22:12:45]
Can Ethocyn restore elasticity to your skin?
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Ethocyn (chemical name: ethoxyhexyl-bicyclooctanone) is claimed to stimulate
the synthesis of elastin in the skin. If true, such capacity would be highly
valuable in skin rejuvenation. Elastin is a protein responsible for the skin's ability
to bounce back after being stretched. The levels of elastin markedly decline with
age, which is one of the major factors in the development of the signs of aging.
(See our article about elastin.)
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Unfortunately, reliable methods to preserve and/or restore youthful levels of
elastin in the skin are scarce at best. That is why the development of Ethocyn in
the early 1980s by Dr. Chantal Burnison initially generated so much interest. The
problem is that Ethocyn's effectiveness has not been validated by credible
published peer-reviewed studies (at least I haven't found any) even though the
company refers to some proprietary unpublished research. Perhaps the
manufacturer (Chantal Pharmaceutical Corporation) didn't have the budget for
the studies comprehensive enough to be published. Or perhaps they were wary
of disclosing trade secrets. Or perhaps the supporting data simply wasn't solid
enough. Hopefully, time will tell.
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Ethocyn molecule is claimed to have a number of physiological effects.
Importantly, it blocks the action of the androgenic sex hormone
dehydrotestosterone (DHT). It is a well-established fact that DHT levels increase
with age. Ethocyn makers claim that age-related decline of elastin synthesis is
caused mainly by high level of DHT. Therefore, topical application of Ethocyn
presumably blocks DHT in the skin and thereby stimulates elastin synthesis.
Such mechanism of action is conceivable but there are serous reservations. In
particular, there is little, if any, credible published research proving that high DHT
levels suppress the synthesis of elastin. Perhaps the makers of Ethocyn
established that fact themselves. Still, an independent peer-reviewed
corroboration would help.
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Let us assume DHT indeed suppresses elastin synthesis in the skin. Then any
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agent blocking DHT action or reducing DHT levels would presumably help
delivery, great value,
restore elastin to the skin. Many such agent are known, such as finasteride,
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dutasteride, spironolactone and so forth. Yet there is no evidence that any anti- www.logicalbeauty.co.uk
DHT agent (except, allegedly, Ethocyn) boosts elsatin synthesis. Perhaps antiDHT drugs simply have not been studied in that connection. Or perhaps the link
between DHT and elastin synthesis, if any, is not causative. Again, more credible
research is needed.
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Ultimately it is more important to prove that Ethocyn indeed increases elastin
synthesis than to establish its exact mechanism of action, whether involving DHT
blockade or not. Perhaps the anti-DHT effects of Ethocyn are irrelevant and it
boosts elastin via some other pathway. This would still be very good news.
However, as long as Ethocyn is backed only by unpublished proprietary
research, is it difficult to take its merits at "face value".
Bottom line
Ethocyn holds a promise of boosting skin elastin and thereby improving signs of
aging. An intriguing mechanism of its action (the blockade of dehydrotestosterone
in the skin) has been proposed. However, independent published research
corroborating these claims is scarce at best.
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Sirtuins, longevity and skin rejuvenation
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As our understanding of the aging process grows, researchers keep testing new
ways to extend life span. Yet, the most effective anti-aging intervention, at least
in animals, remains the same as fifty years ago: caloric restriction, a.k.a. eating
less. For instance, if you feed mice about 30-40% less (in calories) than what
they consume when fed without restrictions, the animals live up to two times
longer and remain healthy throughout almost the entire lifespan.
The results of caloric restriction in humans are likely to be less dramatic and
there may be risks if caloric restriction is too severe and/or initiated too early in
life. Yet, most experts agree that a properly administered, mild variant of caloric
restriction is likely to benefit both human health and longevity.
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Obviously, there is a catch. Humans tend to avoid things that are hard to do,
even if they are beneficial. For most of us, dramatically cutting food intake
makes life too miserable to be worth extending. To counter this problem,
researchers have been trying to figure out how caloric restriction extends life and
whether the same mechanism can be engaged by other means.
They started with an obvious theory that caloric restriction extends life by
reducing cell damage from free radicals, which are generated when cells burn
nutrients in the mitochondria to produce energy. Indeed, a reduction in free
radical levels does appear to have some role. But there's more. Caloric
restriction seems to trigger some very specific cellular mechanisms of selfpreservation whose biological role is to extend survival of the organism until food
intake increases sufficiently to ensure successful reproduction.
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In particular, one biochemical pathway triggered by caloric restriction involves a
class of enzymes called sirtuins (named after the corresponding gene sir2). The
main role of sirtuins is to selectively regulate the activity of many key genes
responsible for metabolism, cell defense, reproduction and other functions. In a
way, sirtuins are involved in switching the body from reproductive mode to
survival, self-preservation and stress-resistance mode. (A brief technical aside:
sirtuins are NAD-dependent histone deacetylases, the enzymes which inhibit the
activity of genes by making DNA more tightly packaged and thus less accessible
for the cell's gene-copying machinery.)
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The discovery that sirtuins are partly responsible for the longevity and health
effects of caloric restriction quickly lead to the search for sirtuin activating
substances. A sirtuin activator could theoretically deliver many of the benefits of
caloric restriction without the concomitant hardships. In the ultimate "have your
cake and eat it too" scenario, a sirtuin-activating drug could trick your body into
thinking it is starving while you may be scooping a chocolate sundae.
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Resveratol, the sirtuin activator
The good news is that one potential sirtuin activator has been found. The not-sogood news is that it is unclear whether we can take advantage if it yet. This
potential sprinkler of youth is resveratol, a well-known substance found in grapes
and red wine. Several studies showed that resveratol can activate sirtuins and
extend lifespan in various species, from yeast to worms to rodents.
A particularly interesting study (published the prestigious journal Nature in 2006)
was conducted by a team of Harvard scientists who tested the effects of
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/sirtuins.html[24/01/2012 22:13:21]
resveratol on obese mice. The researchers put two group of mice on a high
calorie, high fat diet. One of the groups also received resveratol. The diet started
when the mice were a year old (a middle age in mouse terms). As expected,
overfed mice in the first group soon became overweight, developed diabetes,
fatty liver and other health problems. The mice in the other group, who received
the same unhealthy diet plus resveratol, did much better. While also overweight,
the mice on resveratol did not develop any of the health problems seen in the
first group. And they lived longer too. Essentially, resveratol neutralized the
negative impact of excess caloric intake on health and longevity.
Unfortunately, it is unclear how these promising data on resveratol apply to
humans. Many questions remain. Would humans respond the same as mice? If
they do, what would be the optimal human dose? In the above Harvard study,
mice received 24 milligrams of resveratol per kilogram of body weight per day.
For an average human, this would translate to about 1700 mg of resveratol a
day. Even after adjusting for slower metabolism of humans compared to mice,
the comparable human dose would likely be hundreds of milligrams a day. This
is a far greater amount than what can be realistically consumed by drinking red
wine, which contains between 1 and 3 mg of resveratol per bottle. The safety of
high doses of resveratol in humans has not been studied. Also, resveratol is
unstable and oxidizes easily, which makes the manufacturing of bioactive, highdose resveratol supplement a complicated and expensive process. All of these
questions need to be addressed before sirtuin activation via high-dose resveratol
can become a viable option. Some companies are working in that direction.
Others are trying to find more effective and stable sirtuin activators, whether
derived from resveratol or not.
What can you reasonably do in the meantime to activate your sirtuins? Probably
not much. There are numerous resveratol supplements on the markets but the
dosages are likely to be too small to be effective. Besides, the stability and
quality of most resveratol supplements is at best questionable.
Resveratol as a skin care ingredient
Some experts argue that despite the above uncertainties, there may already be a
limited way to benefit from resveratol's ability to activate sirtuins - by applying it
topically to the skin. Small oral doses of resveratol are known to be safe - after
all people have been eating grapes and drinking red wine for millennia. When
applied to the skin, even small amounts may create a high enough local
concentration to produce sirtuin activation in skin cells. Whether they actually do
so is unclear.
Unfortunately, topical application of resveratol carries some uncertainties beyond
its potential effect on sirtuins. On one hand, resveratol is an antioxidant and antiinflammatory, both of which is generally good for the skin. Indeed, in one study
in mice, resveratol reduced some indicators of free radical damage induced by
ultraviolet light. However, in another study, in human epidermal cell culture
exposed to ultraviolet light, resveratol increased a certain type of harmful DNA
mutations. More research is needed to determine the net effect of resveratol on
the skin as well as optimal ways to apply it (if any). Those who wish to try topical
resveratol despite the above concerns should be extra careful in avoiding sun
exposure, at least until more is known about resveratol's potential to increase
UV-induced mutations.
Commercial creams with resveratol do exist even though the choice is limited.
However, the concentration of resveratol in these products is typically unknown.
Furthermore, the instability of resveratol makes creating a cream with
appreciable shelf life and good biological activity very difficult. A do-it-yourself
approach is more likely to deliver a viable formula because one can purchase a
stabilized resveratol extract and add the desired amount to a topical vehicle just
before use - thus reducing the risk of degradation. Using an anhydrous vehicle
may further increase the chances of creating a formula capable of activating
sirtuins. I have been receiving requests to include a DIY formula for a resveratol
cream in my DIY Skin Care Infopack. However, I am reluctant to do that until
more research about the risks and benefits of topical resveratol is available. (If
you wish to make a suggestion and/or provide feedback regarding this issue,
please contact me).
Topical sirtuins
Some companies claim to make creams containing sirtuins, thus allegedly bypassing the need for sirtuin activator. Considering that sirtuins are large and
relatively unstable proteins, it would seem very difficult to make this approach
work in practice. At his point, there is no evidence that products claiming to
contain sirtuins are effective.
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Beta-hydroxy vs alpha-hydroxy acids for skin rejuvenation
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Just as alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids are simple organic acids found
in nature or synthesized in the laboratory. They are somewhat different from
alpha hydroxy acids in structure and mode of action. Although beta hydroxy
acids are now often portrayed as the latest skincare breakthrough, they have
been around for quite a while. Salicylic acid, a common beta hydroxy acid, has
been used for treating acne for decades. In fact, acne treatment remains the use
of choice for beta hydroxy acids. There are no studies showing that beta hydroxy
acids are superior or even equal to alpha hydroxy acids for skin exfoliation,
reducing fine wrinkles, etc. when used as a part of skin care routine. There is
some evidence that as a moderate chemical peel agent (i.e. for relatively strong
peels used only occasionally and usually applied by professionals) beta-hydroxy
may be a viable alternative to alpha-hydroxy. For acne, however, beta hydroxy
acids are clearly superior to alpha hydroxy acids.
Bottom line
For persons without acne, adding beta hydroxy acids to alpha hydroxy acids
regimen of daily skin care is a waste of money. For occasional chemical peels,
beta-hydroxy may be worth a try, especially if the results with alpha-hydroxy
have been unsatisfactory.
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Topical Skin Rejuvenation Treatments

Transcription

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