CENSUS REPORT ACCESSORIES 2012 The U.S. Accessories
Transcription
CENSUS REPORT ACCESSORIES 2012 The U.S. Accessories
ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT ACCESSORIES CENSUS The U.S. Accessories Market 2012: $34.5 Billion In The Bag. 2012 In a more competitive retail reality that faces the accessories industry, the latest industry statistics give insight and provide opportunity The Census Issue data is just the beginning. The NPD Group’s market information services for the accessories industry help you monitor a multitude of accessories categories across all retail channels. It’s the industry data and expertise you need to address your most pressing business questions. 2013 Projected Market Share by Classification* Use it to identify opportunities for expansion, enhance marketing strategies, improve product distribution, fine-tune product development, benchmark results, and more. Slippers/Casual Footwear 2.60% Learn more. Belts 1.06% For more information, contact Charles Camaroto at 866-444-1411 Umbrellas 0.79% Jewelry 34.88% or email contactnpd@npd.com. Handbags 30.12% Sunglasses 5.39% Scarves 1.45% Small Leathergoods 6.18% Hosiery 9.20% Hats 1.04% Watches 6.66% Gloves 1.41% * Projections provided by Accessories Magazine I n a year where consumers were bombarded with pros and cons on the national elections, the debt ceiling and the so-called fiscal cliff, not to mention a slow job recovery and an economy that seemed to inch along, American consumers showed surprising resilience last year. Whatever their views were on the nation’s economic woes, American consumers still went shopping, still crowded into stores on Black Friday, and still bought even more from the convenience of their personal computers, tablets or even mobile phones. Although retail sales improved—even if not as robust as some had forecast—there’s still a long way to go in many categories. But, fortunately consumers continued to shop for accessories, lured by their versatility, relatively low investment and fashion savoir-faire. One of the major motivating factors in the continued strength of accessories sales is the role 24 ACCESSORIES of the “need cycle.” Women have reduced or held off on their fashion purchases for economic reasons, but now they need to replenish their wardrobes as a matter of necessity. “Even though the economy is still sluggish and paychecks are less in the New Year with the 2% increase in Social Security taxes, women will still opt to update their wardrobes,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, Inc. “After all, you can go just so long with wearing the same outfits and expecting them to look right and even more important fit right. The need cycle takes precedence when updating your wardrobe is ignored for too long.” That means retailers and manufacturers need more than ever to stay abreast of the nuances and consumer buying patterns in an increasingly competitive retail environment. Hence, Accessories Magazine once again provides the annual Accessories Census Report, | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM the only comprehensive guide to the state of the accessories industry. As has been the case in previous years, Accessories has partnered with The NPD Group, Inc., a global information company that is a leader in retail tracking services and consumer panels in a wide range of industries. This report fuses Accessories’ proprietary industry research with NPD’s latest statistics. The result is a look at what happened in 2012 encompassing more than 90% of all accessories sold in the United States. “We are delighted to continue to partner with Accessories Magazine on their Census Report,” says Diane Nicholson, president, beauty, fashion, and sports, The NPD Group, Inc. “NPD has the unique ability to deliver the industry with the most detailed and accurate insights. Exiting calendar year 2012, the industry enjoyed a healthy growth with many of the smaller segments hitting it big.” npd.com ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE/THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT KEY RETAIL TRENDS • Being on the leading edge of women’s return to fashion shopping, accessories boasted a 5% increase in 2012. That was on top of a 4% increase in 2011. • Improvements in average unit prices in some leading categories helped push the total average unit pricepoint to $16. But the accessories industry posted a small decline in total unit sales, hit primarily by declines in cold weathergoods units. • Fashion, costume and bridge jewelry, which represents more than a third of all women’s accessories sales, continued to flourish with a 3% increase in dollar sales and a 4% increase in units. • Handbags, which had a 6% increase in dollar sales, rebounded particularly strong with certain age groups (such as 34 and under) and in smaller silhouettes. as gloves/mittens and mufflers. However, a wetter year in some regions, helped lift umbrellas dollar sales by 14%. TOTAL WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES U.S. Retail Sales Estimates $ Billions Projected 2013 $32.50 2012 $30.5 *Projections provided by Accessories magazine dollar sales rose 15% while unit sales were up 11%. • After suffering several years of sales declines, fashion/sports watches made a strong rebound, growing 18%—the largest increase that any accessories category posted in 2012. • Accessories sales in 2012 were in line—actually slightly better—than other fashion categories. According to The NPD Group, Inc., sales of women’s apparel rose 4.2% last year (for the 12 months ending November 2012 vs. 12 months ending November 2011). Meanwhile total U.S. footwear sales were up 3% with women’s footwear sales leading the way with a 4% increase. • Though small in size, small leathergoods gave an outsized 2012 performance: • 2012 was one of the hottest years on record, which didn’t help sales of cold weather merchandise, such • In most categories, price isn’t the primary deciding factor in an accessory sale. In fact, most accessories sales last year were made at regular price. • Sales by retail channel were similar to previous years, with the exception of department stores, chain stores and specialty stores which showed slight increase in most accessories categories. Mass merchants, on the other hand, posted slight declines for the most part. The channel that had growth in all categories? Online, including internet pureplays. About the 2012 Annual Census Report: Accessories Magazine and The NPD Group, Inc. have collaborated on all the accessories categories listed in the total chart. In addition to the consumer information collected by NPD, this census contains Accessories Magazine’s proprietary research of industry statistics and trends incorporating classifications not surveyed by NPD, such as hairgoods and casual footwear. The Port Washington, NY-based NPD Group is the leading provider of consumer and retail information for a wide range of industries. For more information, go to www.npd.com. TOTAL WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES U. S. Retail Sales Estimates by Category TOTAL WOMEN'S ACCESSORIES Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry*1 Fashion/Sport Watches*2 Handbags*3 Small Leathergoods* Belts* Gloves/Mittens* Hats/Caps** Sunglasses* Umbrellas* Slippers/Casual Footwear*** Hosiery**4 Scarves/Mufflers** 2012 Dollars (billions) $30.5 $10.7 $1.9 $9.0 $1.8 $0.4 $0.4 $0.4 $1.5 $0.3 $0.8 $2.9 $0.4 Dollar % Chg 12 vs 11 5% 3% 18% 6% 15% 2% -8% 1% -11% 14% -2% 4% 4% 2012 Units (Millions) 2,600 821 56 197 110 30 48 26.6 84 26 52 1,100 33.5 Unit % Chg 12 vs 11 -2% 4% 8% 2% 11% -5% -1% -3% -2% 1% -6% 1% -14% *Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 12 excludes Fine Jewelry, Fine Watches, Luggage ***Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Footwear / 12 ME Dec 12 1 Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry = all women's jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold, or platinum 2 Fashion/Sport Watches = all women's watches under $350 3 Handbags defined as all Women's Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffel Bags, Messenger Bags, Backpacks, Sport Equipment Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags **Statistics by Accessories Magazine 26 ACCESSORIES | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM Average Unit Retail $16 $13 $34 $46 $16 $12 $8 $11 $18 $10 $15 $3 $11 ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT HANDBAGS KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Handbags have staged a comeback with renewed consumer interest in this classification. • “Women returned to buy handbags in 2012, especially smaller silhouettes, because they were an affordable luxury they could justify spending on as an investment,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD. • Handbags continued their ascent toward pre-Great Recession levels: total dollar sales increased 6% while unit sales rose 2%. • The average unit retail was $46. • Handbag sales to under-34 women increased last year, while sales to older age groups were flat or down. WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1 Retail Sales Estimates $ Billions Projected 2013 $9.5 2012* $9.0 2011* $8.5 *The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11 1 Handbags defined as all Women’s Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffel Bags, Messenger Bags, Sport Equipment Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags Projections provided by Accessories Magazine • Although 54% of handbag purchases were made on sale last year, 61% of handbag sales were planned, not by impulse. • The vast majority of handbags, 75% in fact, were self purchases. • While most handbags continue to be purchased in a store, online sales continue to edge up, now accounting for about 18% of sales. • When asked what primary uses their handbag purchases were for, 59% said “for anytime.” • Many reasons go into each handbag purchase. Last year, women cited these chief reasons in order: styling/features, price, and brand. • Only 19% of handbag sales last year were purchased as gifts. • There was a definite return to more simplified styles, with shape and structure telling the story rather than lots of logos, hardware or bling. Smooth leather added to this sleek appeal in many cases. • Interesting textures like wovens or perforations were another way to add subtle interest on structured shapes. • Totes were very strong—easy to understand, practical and versatile for both the workplace and after. Their ability to hold a laptop or tablet computer was also instrumental to their success. • Top-handle bags (single or doublehandles) captured the ladylike trend. • Underscoring the consumers’ attraction to the classic satchel, The Cambridge Satchel company (launched in 2008 with just $1,000 seed money) is now an $8 million brand. The shape was modeled after the basic British schoolboy’s satchel. • Color-blocking—with its retro feel— was a key trend in 2012, be it in WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1 Wearer Age Groups % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 6% 10% 17% 37% 16% 14% Total 13 Yrs + 13-17 18-24 25-34 35-54 55-64 65+ % of 2012 Unit Sales 100% 9% 12% 15% 34% 16% 14% Average Unit Retail $56 $41 $48 $61 $61 $59 $55 Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 12 *Handbags defined as satchels, shoulder bags, clutches, cross-body bags, minibags WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1 Style of Accessories Total Basic Classic/Conservative Sporty/Active Trendy/Fashion-Forward % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 25% 20% 9% 46% % of 2011 Dollar Sales 100% 23% 20% 8% 49% Remaining percentage not specified Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12 1Handbags defined as all Women's Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffle Bags, Messenger Bags, Backpacks, Sport Equipment Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags 28 ACCESSORIES | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT HANDBAGS KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 (CONT’D) color-blocked leather, color-blocked skins, or color-blocked mixed media. • Small, boxy shapes with long straps—often chains—were a key item, selling at a lower retail than larger bags and offering lots of fashion punch. • Small and medium silhouette handbags—including satchels, shoulder bags, clutches, cross-body and minibags under 12-inches wide— accounted for more than half the half of the dollar volume share last year, according to NPD. • Cross-bodies were very strong for their ease, comfort and newness. Some bags offered adjustable straps that could covert the cross body into a shoulder bag. • Clutches fared fairly well but not as well as cross-bodies and totes. In scale, clutches got larger and became more of a day-to-evening item. The oversized envelope clutch was key. • Detachable straps (mainly chains) on clutches were popular and easily 2012 Dollar Share 2011 Dollar* Share* 100% 100% Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 Department Stores 19% 18% 1.0 National Chains 10% 9% 1.0 Mass Merchants 9% 10% -1.0 Specialty Stores 32% 30% 2.0 Internet Pureplays^ 6% 5% 1.0 Catalog/Direct Mail 2% 2% 0.0 Home Shopping 3% 3% 0.0 Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs 8% 9% -0.1 Other 12% 15% -3.0 Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. * 2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc. /Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 1 Handbags defined as all Women's Bags, including Handbags, Totes, Duffel Bags, Messenger Bags, Backpacks, Sport Equipment Bags, Briefcases/Attaches, Laptop Bags, Fanny/Waist Packs, and Diaper Bags ^Internet Pureplays are retailers that offer internet as its primary “storefront.” This channel includes retailers like Amazon.com, eBags, Overstock, Zappos, Piperlime, etc. Other includes Food and Drug Stores, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas, etc. 30 ACCESSORIES • Women wanted to hold onto their clutches without worrying about them, so slip-through bands or wristlet straps proved important. • Aspirational brands in recognizable names like Michael Kors and Kate Spade did very well, often in shop-inshop boutiques within departments. • “Faux leather” styles are getting more toned down and classic, really going after a woman who might not realize that genuine leather bags have come down in price. • Wovens came on strong, especially moving into Spring 2013. From naturals to brights, from solids to zigzigs or other patterns, wovens added textural interest. • Quilting was key, and not just in Chanel-inspired diamond shapes (shown at left). Quilts were shown in floral shapes, swirls, zig-zags and linear motifs, as well. • Minaudieres were a strong silhouette but they had to be large enough to hold a consumer’s cell phone. Interesting elements—from studs to lace to finger “rings”—helped them attract a younger customer. • Special occasion bags didn’t exhibit the kind of growth that small leathergoods showed last year. WOMEN’S HANDBAGS1 Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total removed and slipped into the bag. | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM • Printed python snake (or actual python at the higher end) was a key motif, done in neutrals or colors. • For 2013, the Mod black-and-white trend in optical checks, stripes and color-blocks is key. • The Celine “Trapeze” or trapezoid shape was widely emulated. • Jil Sander’s Fall 2012 show put icy pales in the spotlight, driving the trend into Spring 2013. • Neon pops, namely paired with nude bodies, look fresh for Spring 2013. • Brands, such as Coach, collaborated with celebrities and bloggers for limited-edition capsule collaborations. a division of Pan Oceanic Group | 15 W 37th St, 6th Floor | New York, NY 10018 Contact: Jerry Perry | 212-354-7744 ext 2458 ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT SMALL LEATHERGOODS leathergoods by preventing cyber theft finally caught on. Look for even more fashion-forward styles to boast RFID properties going forward. WOMEN’S SMALL LEATHERGOODS Retail Sales Estimate $ Billions Projected 2013 $1.95 2012* $1.8 2011* $1.5 • While smartphones of all brands and sizes continue to increase in popularity, when it came to selecting snap-on covers to stock, many retailers stuck to iPhone cases for simplicity. *The NPD Group, Inc. /Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12 ME Dec 11 Projections provided by Accessories Magazine • Beyond snap-on covers, retailers tried to accommodate new versions of smartphones, e-readers and tablets, with one-size-fits-all designs when possible. Quilted designs added interest, as did embossed leather and colored skins. KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Small leathergoods, one of the best performing categories even during the recent recession, continues to make a strong showing. Dollar sales rose 15% and unit sales were up 11%. • “Small leathergoods has a momentum thanks to technology. Consumers are attracted to small leathergoods that are colorful and can compartmentalize their mobile phone, keys etc. They offer fashion as well as function,” says NPD’s chief industry analyst, Marshal Cohen. purchases: 11% said the leathergoods “caught my eye while shopping;” but 23% are lured by price, 21% by the styling or features, 14% by brand name and 14% by price. • The average unit sale was $16. • One of the fastest-growing classifications is mobile phone cases, where sales grew more than 67% in one year. • There is deliberateness to small leathergoods purchases: 64% were planned and 61% of them were purchased at regular price. • Cases that held phones and credit cards did very well. These bestsellers were either on a wristlet or longer strap for versatility. • Women understand small leathergoods now and they make a good gift and self-purchase item. While most small leathergoods bought last year were as self purchases, about 18% were bought as gifts. • The majority of small leathergoods sales continue to be made in-store; however, last year approximately 18% were purchased online. • When asked for the style of their small leathergoods purchases, consumers were nearly evenly split between “trendy, fashion-forward” (40%) and “basic” (41%). • Consumers cited many reasons for making their small leathergoods 32 ACCESSORIES • The security advantages that RFID blocking materials give small • Manufacturers got creative in this category too, adding “low-tech” items like paper journals or datebooks that often coordinated with tech cases. • Wallets had a strong year, particularly in designer brands such as Michael Kors or Kate Spade that served as a gateway into a designer brand for consumers not willing to spend on the handbags. • Plaque logos added an upscale look and brand identity. • Colorful wallets were a way for consumers to experiment with color without a major handbag commitment. Plus, they make it easy for consumers to find the wallet in their handbag. • Wristlets also were an excellent business, especially zip-around wristlets for security and ease. • Retailers are still experimenting to find the right balance between traditional small leathergoods and new tech cases. WOMEN’S SMALL LEATHERGOODS1 Style of Accessories Total Basic Classic/Conservative Sporty/Active Trendy/Fashion-Forward % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 41% 13% 6% 40% % of 2011 Dollar Sales 100% 40% 14% 6% 40% Remaining percentage not specified Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12 The Best Source For All Your Leather and Suede Skins FEATURING: HAIR-ON’S PATENTS • PRINTS & TRANSFERS METALLICS • EMBOSSED • EXOTICS WOMEN’S SMALL LEATHERGOODS Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total Department Stores National Chains Mass Merchants Specialty Stores Internet Pureplays^ Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs Food/Drug Stores Other Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. * 2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group,Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 11 Other includes Catalog/Direct Mail, TV/Home Shopping, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas etc. ^A Pure Play is solely an Internet retailer with no physical store | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 2012 Dollar Share 100% 11% 6% 16% 30% 6% 5% 2% 24% 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 10% 6% 17% 29% 5% 6% 2% 23% Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 1.0 0.0 -1.0 1.0 1.0 -1.0 0.0 1.0 GLOBAL LEATHERS 253 W. 35TH STREET, 9TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10001, 212-244-5190 www.globalleathers.com ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY • While there are plenty of good deals to be had in costume jewelry last year, more than half the sales, 55%, were purchased at regular price again last year. • The average unit retail remained at $13 though consumers still showed a willingness to trade up. • Nearly 20% of jewelry sales were made online, 4% more than in 2011. Besides not having to worry about fit, inexpensive jewelry such as a pair of earrings could always be purchased as an add-on to get the consumer to the “Free Shipping” threshold. • While about a third of jewelry purchases were as gifts, 62% were bought for the consumer herself. • Although consumers admitted to buying jewelry for occasions such as WOMEN’S FASHION/COSTUME AND BRIDGE JEWELRY1 Retail Sales Estimates $ Billions Projected 2013 $11 2012* $10.7 2011* $10.4 *The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11 1 Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry = all women’s jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold or platinum Projections provided by Accessories Magazine KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • 2012 was another good year for fashion and bridge jewelry as consumers bought more jewelry at regular price, planned those sales and bought them because they were fashionable. • “Fashion jewelry is still recovering,” notes Marshal Cohen of NPD. “Women are willing to invest in jewelry because it’s an affordable luxury, but sales still haven’t returned to pre-recession levels.” • For the second year in a row, jewelry sales were up 3% while unit sales rose 4%. 34 ACCESSORIES www.chanluu.com www.chanluu.jp LOS ANGELES SHOWROOM NEW YORK SHOWROOM 127 East 9th Street, Suite 1107 Los Angeles, CA 90015 1441 Broadway, Penthouse New York, NY 10018 an evening out or dress-up during the day, the vast majority, 53%, bought jewelry suitable to wear “anytime.” • About 50% of jewelry sales were for what consumers described as “trendy” or “fashion oriented,” the biggest portion of any accessories category. • Key reasons consumers cite for buying the jewelry they did? 29% said the styling/features of the jewelry and another 17% said the jewelry “caught my eye while shopping.” In third place was pricepoint. • Jewelry is often a favorite or even at the top of gift lists, but the largest percentage of jewelry, 43%, is bought for “no special occasion.” • The popularity of certain jewelry classifications tended to vary regionally. • The trend in fashion jewelry is almost that there is no trend. More important trends than ever hit at the same time, or turn so fast that retailers can barely keep up. • The improved quality of inexpensive, fast-fashion jewelry (from chain stores such as Forever 21 or H&M) continued to put pressure on better specialty chain stores as well as department stores. WOMEN’S FASHION/COSTUME AND BRIDGE JEWELRY Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution 2012 Dollar Share 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 100% Department Stores 8% 8% 0.0 National Chains 12% 11% 1.0 -1.0 Total Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 Mass Merchants 9% 10% Specialty Stores 29% 27% 2.0 Internet Pureplays^ 8% 5% 3.0 Catalog/Direct Mail 2% 3% -1.0 Home Shopping 7% 7% 0.0 Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs 2% 3% -1.0 Other 23% 27% -4.0 Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. *The NPD Group, Inc/Consumers Tracking Service for Accessories/12 ME Dec 11 1 Fashion/Costume and Bridge Jewelry = all women's jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold or platinum ^Internet Pureplays are retailers that offer internet as its primary ‘‘storefront.’’ This channel includes retailers like Amazon.com, eBags, Overstock, Zappos, Piperlime, etc. Other includes Food and Drug Stores, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas, etc. | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM KENYA HAITI “Ethical fashion is taking an active role in changing the world for the better; in my case, providing a sense of dignity and a sustainable system of support for our artisans around the world.” – Chan Luu Chan Luu Ethical Fashion International is a new line designed by Chan in collaboration with artisans around the world. The line is developed using materials handcrafted by local area craftsmen and is part of an ongoing effort to develop sustainable industries and give artisans the opportunity to work and build a new life. ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY WOMEN’S FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY1 Occasion Total Anniversary/Birthday As a Special Treat Holiday Wedding/Engagement No Special Occasion Other Occasion % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 13% 15% 20% 3% 43% 6% % of 2011 Unit Sales 100% 13% 16% 18% 2% 43% 8% Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12 *Fashion/Bridge Jewelry=all women's jewelry under $1000 that does not contain diamonds, 14-18k gold, or platinum • Overall, earrings slowed down but will pick up in 2013 if the Red Carpet is any indication. At the Golden Globes and Academy Awards, long earrings, whether slim and linear or larger in design, were everywhere, often replacing necklaces completely. • Stud post earrings were up as they were a newer trend. Ear “cuffs” that gripped or “climbed” the ear are a growing niche look. • Trendy, all-fashion jewelry websites like BaubleBar.com (now in its second year with estimated revenues of $11 million) have given major brick-and-mortar stores a run for their money. Last fall, the company opened a retail boutique called The Bar with plans to open more. • Department stores responded with stepped up branded jewelry, bringing in newer brands and licenses like T Tahari, Vince Camuto, Fossil or House of Harlow 1960. 36 ACCESSORIES • As a category, bracelets continued their reign as an item in many markets. This included everything from beaded stretch bracelets to stacked metal bangles to braided friendship bracelets that evolved to have more metal and stone. Spikes and skulls are “new” again. • While niche, the “body jewelry” trend continued, including hand chains that link rings to bracelets; and unique over-the-chest chains. • Cocktail rings slowed down, but stackables that emulated fine jewelry did best. Niche rings included over the knuckles and tiny sizes worn at the fingertips to complement nail art. • Some manufacturers added heavier platings of sterling silver over brass, with retailers giving them placement in bridge departments to much success. • Color was a key trend in 2012 and will continue more so into 2013, from mint greens and corals to stark black and white. • In bridge alternatives, the most successful retailers kept average unit retails up but offered more for the money than what was found in a solid .925 item. Retailers that lightened the weight in alternatives (to emulate flimsier solid silver at extremely low pricing) were unhappy with results. • Pantone named Emerald Green (Pantone 17-5641) its 2013 Color of the Year, so expect lots of greens like malachite or emerald crystal. • In the earring classification, hoops remain the leader; however, drop earrings came on strong in 2012, a trend that continues into 2013. • Color has also come into play on colored chain and painted metals. • Gold as a color is trending hugely and two-tone has been outstanding. Retailers are looking to do more in solid rose gold and other color plates. • Despite grumblings about the demise of the statement necklace, the end is far from here. KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 (CONT’D) replace .925 sterling silver, where prices are still high (sterling silver hit price heights—reaching $37/ounce in March 2012; at press time, it was just over $31/ounce). • Floral motifs were and will remain key, from vintage-styled metal flowers to colorful enamels. • Spirituality-related motifs (evil eye, Hamsa hand, infinity shape) sold very well, often stacked together. • Gold as a fashion jewelry plating color was a higher percentage of business in 2012 than the year prior. Expect a significant rise in 2013. • Gold/black combinations were a particularly strong trend. • In 2012, bridge jewelry was the year of alternatives, with expansions of metals that consumers could buy to | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM • In bridge, straight non-traditional plated product can often look like costume and the consumer does not understand the difference in value. • Retailers haven’t yet maximized two-tone metal combinations. • Gold vermeil (gold over .925 sterling silver) continued strong. • Bridge chain business was strong. • There were some excellent boxed programs as, once again, the retailer used the alternative metals that show excellent perceived value. ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT FASHION/SPORT WATCHES KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 sales rose nearly 11% while the $300 to $500 range, sales were up 6%. • Although watches were purchased as graduation, Christmas or Hanukkah gifts, most, 42%, were bought for “no special occasion.” • Although consumers have their smartphones, tablets etc., to give them the exact time, fashion and sport watches maintained their status as fashion accessories. In fact, women’s watches had a rebound in 2012 with dollars sales rising 18% while units were up 8%. • With fewer markdowns (watch trends have longer arcs than other accessories), strong margins and a high price/value equation, watches remain attractive to retailers. • “Bold-faced, bright watches provided a strong fashion statement but at reasonable prices,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD. “They were attractive to both the younger generation and middle-aged consumers.” • There’s a connection with fashion jewelry where bracelets remain so popular: this attention to the wrist has helped drive watches with a strong fashion component. • While metal bracelets dominated watches for a while (namely the highly popular Michael Kors “boyfriend watch”), leather straps came back very strong for in the second half of 2012. • The average unit sale for a watch was $34 last year. • News of watches’ demise is greatly exaggerated. Swatch Group, the world’s biggest watchmaker, reported a 26% increase in its 2012 profit. And the U.S. Commerce Department estimated fine watch sales were up 5.8% in 2012 to an estimated $9.4 billion. • Not only were 65% of the fashion and sport watch sales planned, 58% of sales were as self purchases, too. • Watches continue to be the most popular accessories category to be purchased online; nearly a quarter of them, 24%, were bought online. • While most consumers, 61%, bought watches suitable for anytime of the day, about 12% said they purchased them for work. • There was a range of designs popular in watches last year: about 44% were identified as “trendy” or “fashion forward” while another 45% described their watch purchases as “basic” or “classic conservative.” • The three most important reasons cited for buying watches were: 1. Styling/Features, 2. Price, 3. Brand. • Higher-priced watches picked up in sales, too. In the $150 to $300 range, 38 ACCESSORIES will gain strength in Fall/Holiday 2013, possibly spurred on by the 1920s-styles to be seen in the new high-style “Great Gatsby” movie, opening this summer. • Larger sizes remained key, despite talks about a major shift to downsizing. A smaller boyfriend watch, however, did pick up speed while still maintaining its borrowedfrom-the-boys look. • Smaller, ladylike bracelet watches WOMEN’S FASHION/SPORT WATCHES1 Retail Sales Estimates $ Billions Projected 2013 $2.1 2012* $1.9 2011* $1.6 *The NPD Group/ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories/ 12ME Dec 12 and 12 ME Dec 11 1 Fashion/Sport Watches = all women’s watches under $350 Projections provided by Accessories magazine. • A new retail trend is the increase in open-sell formats for more higherpriced merchandise. • Leather is also the way to capture the color trend, absolutely essential for 2013. White has become a 12-month color, as winter white gained popularity. • Rose gold PVD looks remained strong and still looked fresh. • Tortoise remained a popular material. • Black and gold was a powerful fashion combination. • Printed snake straps in various colors did well, with high perceived value. • While no longer “new,” ceramic remained popular. Best colors remain white and black, although blush gained strength. • Bright colors were shown for Spring 2013 and will continue into the Fall. They look great in the showcase and drive sales as well. WOMEN’S FASHION/SPORTWATCHES1 Style of Accessories Total Basic Classic/Conservative Sporty/Active Trendy/Fashion-Forward % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 18% 27% 12% 44% % of 2011 Dollar Sales 100% 18% 25% 10% 47% Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12 *Fashion/Sport Watches = all women's watches under $350 WOMEN’S FASHION/SPORT WATCHES1 Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total Department/National Chain Stores Mass Merchants Specialty Stores ^Other Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. *The NPD Group/Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories/12 ME Dec 11 ^Other includes Off-Price, Factory Outlets, Internet Pureplays | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 2012 Dollar Share 100% 27% 15% 21% *37% 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 26% 15% 20% 39% Visit Us at Call Us - 646.833.8811 Email Us - sales@pavanausa.com March 17th to the 20th, 2013 Sands Expo Center 7 West 34th Street Suite 645 New York, NY 10001 Booth G1418 www.PavanaWatches.com Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 1.0 0.0 1.0 -2.0 ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT HOSIERY/LEGWEAR KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Buoyed by the demand for replenishment, hosiery benefited from its fashion prowess at a price. Dollar sales were up. Average unit retail remained at about $3. specifically for hosiery; 31% said their hosiery purchases were unplanned while 27% were planned but hosiery wasn’t their primary shopping reason. • In 2012, 42% said they made their hosiery purchases while shopping • Hosiery was all about bright, bold color on the legs—everything from socks to tights to leggings. Colored tights performed best in heavily textured, heavy weights. • Most hosiery purchases were self purchases, though 22% were bought for someone else. • Tights had a very good year, as consumers wore them under dresses as well as shorts. Interest came from patterns, openwork and cut-outs such as diamonds, circles, stripes, etc. • Hosiery continues to be sold mostly • Sales by wearer’s ages tend to be fairly equal for those ages 54 and younger. Those ages 55 and above account for the largest segment of sales at 26%. • Most hosiery is bought at regular price while 40% was purchased on sale last year. in-store locations; only 7% was purchased online last year. WOMEN’S HOSIERY1 Retail Sales Estimates $ Billions Projected 2013 $2.9 2012 $2.8 2011* $2.7 • Younger consumers love legwear— tights, leggings or jeggings. • Sheers are making a comeback, with more ladylike dressing paramount. • The 50 Shades of Grey trilogy *2012 Figures and Projections provided by Accessories Magazine *2011 Figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11 sparked new interest in sexy boudoir dressing (HYP launched a Fifty Shades hosiery line including garter sets, printed tights and more). Men also buy these as sexy gift items. WOMEN'S HOSIERY Age Wearer % of Dollar Sales 100% 12% 13% 16% 16% 17% 26% Total 13 Yrs+ 13-17 18-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+ % of Unit Sales 100% 13% 14% 17% 16% 17% 24% Average Unit Retail $3 • Lace had a good year, driven by a retro vibe, from lace knee-high trouser socks to lacy tights. $3 $3 $3 $3 $3 $3 • In socks, multipacks expanded into new silhouettes with novelty categories returning. • The hot boot trend drove boot sock and tight sales. Wool boot sock styles sold the best in many cases. Source: The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / Jan-Nov 11/12 Other includes Food and Drug Store, Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc. • Slipper socks and longer silhouettes were surprisingly successful, especially fleece-lined no-shows. WOMEN’S HOSIERY1 Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total 2012 Dollar Share 2011 Dollar Share* Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 100% 100% Department Stores 13% 12% National Chains 12% 11% 1.0 Mass Merchants 35% 36% -1.0 Specialty Stores 18% 17% 1.0 Catalog/Direct Mail 1% 1% 0.0 Internet/Pure Plays 1% 1% 1.0 Off-Price/Factory Outlet/Warehouse Clubs 12% 13% -1.0 Food/Drug 2% 2% 0.0 Other 5% 7% -2.0 * The NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11 1 Hosiery = Socks, Sheer Hosiery, Tights ^Internet Pureplays are retailers that offer internet as its primary “storefront.” Other includes Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc. Souce: Accessories Magazine 40 ACCESSORIES | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 1.0 • In athletic socks, tech features (wicking, etc.) remained important with pops of neon on trims as key. • Better fabrications sold but value continued its importance • Set in the ’80s, TV series “The Carrie Diaries” is reviving retro emphasis on colored tights, printed leggings, etc. • For 2013, invisible liners are key, with dots, animal, etc. Spring 2013 is all about color, both brights and pastels, stripes/dots/florals, as well as lots of socks and pretty openwork. • Fall 2013 will be all about great pattern—especially abstracts and geometrics—in legwear and leggings. LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235 NEW YORK 212.564.4710 KBELLSOCKS.COM A DIVISION OF RENFRO CORPORATION ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT SUNGLASSES KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Even though most accessories categories had a good year in 2012, sunglass business was an exception. Dollar sales fell 12% though unit sales only fell 2%. • “Sunglass business was tough last year. For consumers, it’s a need versus a desire issue and frankly they felt they could do without sunwear as a must-have fashion item,” says WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES Retail Sales Estimates $ Billions Projected 2013 2012* 2011* $1.7 $1.5 $1.7 *The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 11 and 12 ME Dec 12 Projections provided by Accessories Magazine Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for NPD. • The average unit sale for sunglasses was $18. • Sunglasses are among the highest self purchase accessories categories. Only 12% were purchased as gifts. • Though growing slightly, online sales of sunglasses accounted for only 10% of sales last year. • Not surprisingly, 22% of respondents said they bought their sunglasses for outdoor use. The rest mostly use them “anytime.” • Trendy/fashion-forward sunglasses were the style that most consumers purchased, accounting for nearly half of all sales. • While about a third of sunglass sales are for the styling or features of the glasses, other important reasons include: price (20%), brand (14%) or other (14%). • Sunwear has increasingly been shown year-round at retailers and this year was no different. 42 ACCESSORIES completed in 2012, so the market can expect more polarized fashion options like gradient polarized. • Sunwear remains the entry point to many designer brands, so consumers still are drawn to labels. Logos, however, remain subtle and tasteful, not overly flashy. • Polarized lenses carry about a $40 to $50 premium compared to regular lenses but better in-store training and consumer education is helping to drive the category. • Retro and cat eyes drove the business. The cat eye trend may be a few years old but 2012 was the year it really hit as a key fashion shape. The oversized cat was the most wearable but still had a retro nod. • For 2013, color is a key trend—pinks, greens, yellows and shades of blues. • Transparency and translucency will increase this year in a wide range of opacities, from clear to milky, from blushes to brights. Lenses can be tonal or in contrasting hues. • Gradient lenses allowed for oversized lenses that looked softer on the face. • Plastic retro frames with a “geeky” feel were also bestsellers especially in heavier, non-beveled frames. This is also a key fashion trend for frames in the optical world. • Going forward into 2013, expect more flash mirror lens sunglasses as a fashion trend, from basic silvers and golds to more colorful selections. • According to data from VisionWatch (12 months ended September ’12), sales of reading glasses were up 5.1%. Average retail prices of reading glasses was $16.76, essentially flat from 2011. • In metals, the aviator continued its reign, from basic styles to colored metals or mixed media versions. • Metal shield styles are uptrending as a fashion statement. • Mixed-metal combinations (metal fronts with acetate temples) were strong, offering the look of metal with the comfort of plastic. • For 2013, there will be increased focus on lenses as consumers get savvier to technologies such as polarization. Once merely for sports sunglasses, polarized lenses are moving into the fashion world. • The purchase of Polaroid Eyewear by fashion sunwear giant Safilo was WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES1 Style of Accessories Total Basic Classic/Conservative Sporty/Active Trendy/Fashion-Forward % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 23% 16% 14% 47% % of 2011 Dollar Sales 100% 19% 13% 13% 55% Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 /12 ME Dec 12 WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total Department Stores National Chains Mass Merchants Specialty Stores Off-Price/Factory Outlets/ Warehouse Clubs Food/Drug Stores Other 2012 Dollar Share 100% 11% 5% 15% 36% 6% 2% 25% Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine *2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 Other includes Internet Pure Plays, Catalog/Direct Mail, TV/Home Shopping, Flea Markets, Mall Kiosks, Salon/Spas, etc. | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 11% 5% 17% 35% 7% 3% 23% Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 0.0 0.0 -2.0 1.0 -1.0 -1.0 +2.0 5L^@VYR6MÄJL!(]LU\LVM(TLYPJHZ:\P[L5L^@VYR5@;LS! 6WLYH[PVUZ*LU[LY!:LH]PL^+YP]L:LJH\J\Z51 ;LS! www.iconeyewear.com ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT SCARVES/MUFFLERS KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Despite being business stymied by a fashion trend downturn and muffler business being chilled by warmer weather, scarf/muffler business as a whole managed a 4% increase in WOMEN’S SCARVES/MUFFLERS Retail Sales Estimates $ Millions Projected 2013 $458 2012 $440 2011* $428 *2012 Figures and Projections provided by Accessories Magazine *2011 Figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11 dollar sales last year. • The average unit retail was $11. • Similar to 2011, most scarves and mufflers were purchased on sale, approximately 54%. • Nearly half of all scarves/mufflers purchased last year were unplanned, although 26% said they were their primary reason for shopping. • Although 70% of scarf and muffler sales were self purchase, 30% were bought for “someone else.” • Most scarves/mufflers are purchased in stores. In 2012, only 10% were bought online. • A warm 2012 winter saw consumers replacing coldweather purchases with lighter-weight wool scarves. • Indeed, lightweight, oversized scarves did well for their versatility and were worn in all seasons. • True coldweather merchandise sold best in lighter weights or open knits that worked as layering pieces. • More expensive silk squares had good sell-throughs as accessories to the more ladylike fashion trend. • Pricepoints tended to be polarized with movement at both ends of the spectrum. • The No. 1 silhouette was the infinity or loop scarf, which became a powerful fashion staple. Easy-tounderstand and wear, consumers flocked to this shape, which will develop further for 2013 with new treatments and mixed media. • Infinity rings/loop scarves also brought a new, younger customer into the scarf market. • Going forward, growth will come not from unit sale increase per se but from selling better qualities and raising average unit price. • Fortunately, the importance of color and a growing print cycle have helped the scarf business too. Prints will continue into 2013. • The pull-through fur scarf is an easy item that will grow in importance. • In coldweather scarves, manufacturers and retailers are moving away from weather-driven offerings to create a fashion-driven classification. Basics flopped as they did not provide a reason to buy. Shine was strong, namely Lurex threads. • Icy pastels and soft pales were a highly popular coldweather palette (as well as traditional jewel tones). • Ruffles added surface interest and femininity. % of 2011 Dollar Sales 27% 26% 47% Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / Jan 11 to Nov 12 44 ACCESSORIES | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM . RE HE % of 2012 Dollar Sales My primary reason for shopping 26% Planned, but not primary reason 24% Not planned 49% T AR ST WOMEN’S SCARVES & MUFFLERS1 Planned Purchase ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT SCARVES/MUFFLERS • For 2013, the industry aims to drive higher sell-throughs by reasserting balance of assortments to different weights and more options. • Embellishments and treatments with mixed media will drive scarf and muffler sales for 2013—from studding to lace mixed with knits. • Due to their exposure on the 2012 fall runways, colored fur (real or faux) will do even better in 2013, in solids and creative color-blocking. WOMEN'S SCARVES/MUFFLERS Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution 2012 Dollar Share 100% 10% 13% 9% 45% 1% 6% 8% 8% Total Department Stores National Chains Mass Merchants Specialty Stores Catalog/Direct Mail Internet/Pure Plays Off-Price/Factory Outlet/Warehouse Clubs Other 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 9% 12% 10% 45% 1% 2% 9% 11% Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 1.0 1.0 -1.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 -1.0 -3.0 Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine * 2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12ME Dec 11 Other includes Food and Drug Store, Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc. KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) called 2012 the “hottest year in the lower 48 ever.” That didn’t help glove/mitten business any—sales fell 8% in dollars and 1% in units. • The average unit retail was $8. • Consumers said that most of their glove/mitten purchases were planned, about 62%, but most of the sales, about 53%, were at sale prices. GLOVES/MITTENS • Asked to describe the style of their glove/mitten purchases, most consumers, 41%, described theirs as WOMEN’S GLOVES/MITTENS Style of Accessories Total Basic Classic/Conservative Sporty/Active Trendy/Fashion-Forward WOMEN’S GLOVES/MITTENS Retail Sales Estimates $ Millions Projected 2013 2012* 2011* $445 $440.3 $433.7 *The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11 Projections provided by Accessories Magazine 46 ACCESSORIES % of 2012 Dollar Sales 100% 41% 17% 13% 29% % of 2011 Dollar Sales 100% 39% 18% 12% 31% Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 / 12 ME Dec 12 • Although most of the glove/mitten sales were for self purchase, 30% of sales were purchased as gifts. • Though proper fit is an issue with gloves/mittens, 14% were purchased online, a slight increase from 2011. “basic.” The second largest group, almost 30%, described their purchases as being “trendy/fashion-forward.” 2012 Dollar 2011 Dollar Pt. Chge. Share Share* ’12 vs. ’11 100% 100% Department Stores 20% 21% -1.0 National Chains 14% 13% 1.0 Mass Merchants 24% 25% 1.0 Specialty Stores 12% 12% 0.0 Off-Price/Factory Outlets/Warehouse Clubs 7% 9% -2.0 Other 23% 20% +3.0 Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures by Accessories Magazine * 2011 Dollar Share figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12ME Dec 11 Other includes Factory Outlets, Off Price, Catalog/Direct Mail, Food and Drug Stores, TV/Home Shopping, Internet Pure Plays, etc. | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM • But citing what reason(s) they bought their glove/mitten purchases, 27% said due to the price; 18% said “styling/ fashion-forward” and 26% cited “other” reasons for their purchases. • Consumers demanded the ability to use their smartphones and screens, but touch gloves were best for swipeanswering phones, while fingerless (or pop-finger or pop-top) were better for more intricate typing and texting. • Touch gloves at all pricepoints caused some “significant overbuys” at retail in some situations. WOMEN’S GLOVES/MITTENS Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total And another 17% described their purchases as “classic/conservative.” ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT BELTS WOMEN’S BELTS Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total 2012 Dollar Share 2011 Dollar Share* Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 100% 100% Department/National Chain Stores 27% 26% 1.0 Mass Merchants 22% 24% -2.0 Specialty Stores 26% 25% 1.0 Other 25% 25% 1.0 Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. *2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 Other includes Factory Outlets, Off Price, Catalog/Direct Mail, Food and Drug Stores, TV/Home Shopping, Internet Pureplays, etc. Source: Accessories Magazine WOMEN’S BELTS Retail Sales Estimates $ Millions Projected 2013 2012* 2011* $335 $340.8 $350.8 UMBRELLAS KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 *The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 11 and 12ME Dec 12 *Projections provided by Accessories Magazine KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Despite being overshadowed by neckwear in many fashion accessories departments, the belt category improved last year after a decline in 2011. Dollar sales increased 2% while unit sales declined 5%. • The average unit sale was $12. • Not surprisingly, most belts are bought as self purchase. Most, nearly • Belts continue to be an accessory that women purchase in a retail store. Only 8% were sold online last year though that is up over previous years. • Asked about their belt purchases, consumers identified “trendy, fashionforward” 45%; “basic” 38% and “classic/conversative” 13%. • When asked why they bought their belts last year, 27% said for the “styling/features,” 21% for “the price” and 23% cited “other” reasons. • Stretch belts—particularly in 3-inch than normal precipitation in other that could drive up retail prices. regions. So it’s no wonder umbrellas • To be successful, belts had to be posted a 14% increase in dollar sales special or different to attract attention, with a 1% increase in unit sales. leaving the basic jean belt off most • The average unit retail was $10. consumers’ radars. • Owing to the fact umbrellas may be • Skinny belts continued, in ½-inch, ¾- needed at a particular time for a inch and 1-inch widths, offering a specific purpose, 64% of them are clean look at a nice price, often spiced sold at regular price and 64% are up with color or exotic skins. bought as a planned purchase. • Colorblocking was strong, with mixed • More than three quarters of umbrellas colors and materials. are bought as self purchase; only 11% • Python continued as the popular are bought as gifts. exotic skin look, adding value. • While size and fit aren’t important in Colored and metallic snakeskin was umbrellas as in many accessories key, even in embossed versions. categories, only 9% were purchased • Soft sashes added waist interest, but online last year. with no hardware to clutter the effect. • Practicality, rather than fashion, is • Corsets were a trend but had to be umbrellas: 56% of consumers’ • Adjustable, dual- and multi-purpose belts (i.e. a slip-on or snap-on buckle) helped maximize purchases. WOMEN’S UMBRELLAS Retail Sales Estimates $ Millions • With people getting back to work and the ladylike dressing trend, consumers sought out more refined belts. particularly with front interest. contoured) waist bands will be key. • Black-and-white will be key in 2013. The Preciosa® GENUINE CZECH CRYSTAL™ trademark is a guarantee of the finest quality Czech product, available only from Preciosa probably the biggest impetus in realistic (i.e. 2- to 3-inch widths). • For Spring 2013, straight across (non- 48 ACCESSORIES European tradition since 1915 the country last year, but so did heavier of look but with less metal or leather widths—were the shining stars, • Stretch had the benefit of offering lots Largest selection of crystal stones & beads in the world • Drought may have hit many parts of 60%, were planned purchases, while 54% were bought at regular retails. PRECIOSA® COMPONENTS purchases were described as “basic.” • Of umbrella sales last year, 22% were described as being “trendy/fashion-forward,” another Projected 2013 $236 2012* $235 2011* $234.5 *The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Accessories / 12 ME Dec 12 and 12 ME Dec 11 Projections provided by Accessories Magazine | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 12% as “sporty/active.” • Asked for the reason for their umbrella purchase, most consumers, 34%, cited “other.” Price was second at 28% and 14% for quality. DISTRIBUTORS OF PRECIOSA® GENUINE CZECH CRYSTAL STALTM BEAD & TRIM, Inc. | 212-725-9845 | www.beadandtrim.com Beads Factory, Inc. | 213-624-2121 | www.beadsfactory.com John F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.com Northeastern Importing Corp. | 212-242-4075 | www.northeasternimporting.com porting.com Pulver Importing, Inc. | 800-223-7858 | www.jfallen.com John Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.com (Canada)) www.preciosa.com co com OR CONTACT US AT usa@preciosa.com info@preciosa.com info@preciosa com ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, INC. 2012 CENSUS REPORT SLIPPERS/CASUAL FOOTWEAR SLIPPERS Sales vs. Regular % of 2012 Dollar Sales % of 2011 Dollar Sales 100% 100% On Sale 46% 46% Regular Price 54% 54% Total Source: The NPD Group, Inc. / Consumer Tracking Service for Footwear / 12 ME Dec 12 slipper consumers, style trends are toward younger, more fun and contemporary slippers, not “grandma” looks. classification was $15. KEY RETAIL TRENDS • Most slippers/casual footwear, some 54%, was purchased at regular price. • Despite growth in indoor/outdoor cross-over slippers and casual footwear that increases the category’s versatility, the business decreased overall 2% in dollars and 6% in units in 2012. • The average unit retail was $15. • Breaking out the flip-flop, thong sandal business—a mainfloor growth category for most retailers—sales increased 21% in dollars to $1.6 billion. The average unit retail for this • Although 44% of consumers say that their slipper purchases were planned, 34% said theirs were unplanned. • Slipper/casual footwear sales tend to be self purchase, some 63% of sales. • Even though most slipper/casual footwear purchases were done in- store last year, 19% of sales were bought online. • With the 18 to 25-year-old demographic truly on the rise as • No. 1 style? The moccasin, usually with artisan/Southwest influenced styles. Best were Southwest-styles in neutrals or with bright stripes on the footbed, turquoise-color accents, and a fringed vamp for an authentic touch. SLIPPERS Retail Sales Estimates $ Millions Projected 2013 $821 2012* $820 2011* $785.5 *The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Footwear / 12 ME Dec 12 and 12ME Dec 11 Projections provided by Accessories Magazine SLIPPERS Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution Total Apparel Specialty Catalog/Direct Mail Department Stores Discount Stores/Mass Merchants National Chains Off Price Online/Internet Pureplay Shoe Chain Shoe Stores Other 2012 Dollar Share 100% 4% 5% 17% 25% 12% 6% 7% 4% 5% 18% 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 5% 5% 17% 24% 11% 6% 5% 4% 5% 19% Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 -1.0 0.0 0.0 -1.0 1.0 0.0 +2.0 0.0 0.0 -1.0 WHOLESALE,SIMPLIFIED Expect the moccasin to continue as a top seller this year, too. • There’s a return to the soft sole for a comfortable, cushiony, curl-up-onthe-couch slipper. The short bootie style also performed extremely well. • A scuff/clog with pretty sweater knits was popular, especially with trims and treatments for visual interest. • Indoor/outdoor soles continue to be a market driver especially to younger consumers who use hard soles both for indoor as well as outdoor wear. Since comfort footwear remains so strong, manufacturers are continuing to improve arched footbeds and outsoles for greater cushioning and enhanced support. • A sequined clog with dyed to match fur in hot pink was popular in 2012, particularly in specialty retailers. This high-impact, statement piece offered a wow factor at retail. • The velour bootie, a perennial favorite, continued as a top performer. Though far from a contemporary style, it proved popular for gift-giving and not just for Baby Boomers. College girls love them, too. • Ballet flats are still important but the moccasin is overtaking them. • Smoking slippers may not have had the sales volume that softer, cozier styles did, but they still made a strong fashion statement and will remain a powerful flat silhouette. The penny loafer look with its stylized, preppy feel is expected to be more important going forward, namely in fun colors. • Sweater knits remain popular but Nordic looks continue to evolve with more experimental treatments in crushed velvets, terries, microfibers, suedes and velour. FASHION WHOLESALE GOES ONLINE! Finally! The perfect virtual marketplace. Browse women’s, men’s and children’s apparel, footwear and accessories all on one incredible space. Monkey N Middle lets retailers plan their wholesale buys online. Anytime. Anywhere. Retailers can conveniently shop a brand’s showroom, plan buys, create styleouts, manage budgets, place & track orders and so much more. You’ll love the convenience and there’s no cost. Register now at Monkeynmiddle.com! • Fur remains a key material in natural and dyed-to-match colorations. • Regarding animal prints, women never seem to tire of leopard. Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. *2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Footwear /12 ME Dec 11 Other includes Athletic Specialty, Factory Outlet, Sporting Goods, Warehouse Clubs, etc. 50 ACCESSORIES | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 99 Madison Avenue | New York, NY 10016 | P: 201.706.4580 | info@monkeynmiddle.com ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE / THE NPD GROUP, I NC. HATS/CAPS KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 30% said they specifically went shopping for their hat purchases. • While most hats/caps were bought as a self purchase, 28% were purchased for someone else. • The vast majority of headwear is purchased in a store location, but 11% were sold online in 2012. • Although headwear enjoyed sales increases in recent years, sales slowed down to only about a 1% gain in 2012. This left retailers blaming a warm winter and struggling to understand soft spring/summer sales. • In 2012, the fedora remained the most popular silhouette, but trended toward a broader-brim fedora or Panama hat. • The average unit retail was $11. • With fedoras sold “on every street corner” however, the industry rallied to create new and innovative styles and approaches, featuring mixed media—anything to give the consumer a reason to buy. • Women continue to look for more than pricepoint in their hat/cap purchases. Last year 64% of the purchases were made on headwear that wasn’t on sale. • Hats/caps are true accessories, mostly bought on impulse. Last year, 55% were unplanned purchases. Another • While straws had some bright spots, overall they were a disappointment. This baffled retailers optimistic about consumers’ heightened desire for increased sun protection. WOMEN’S HATS/CAPS Retail Sales Estimates $ Millions Projected 2013 2012 2011* 2012 CENSUS REPORT • Openwork straws provided more breatheability as well as fashion patterns in the weave. $328.7 $326.8 $320.5 • Oversized floppies reduced in scale *2012 Figures and Projections provided by Accessories Magazine *2011 Figures by The NPD Group, Inc./ Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11 % of 2011Dollar Sales My primary reason for shopping 30% 35% Planned, but not primary reason 16% 25% Not planned 55% 40% Source: The NPD Group / Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / Jan 11 - Nov 12 KEY RETAIL TRENDS 2012 • Hair accessories had a strong year, driven by various pop culture influences that helped renew consumers’ interest in the category. • Although “The Great Gatsby” movie WOMEN’S HATS/CAPS Channel Category Dollar Share Distribution 2012 Dollar Share 2011 Dollar Share* 100% 100% Department Stores 7% 5% National Chains 10% 9% 1.0 Mass Merchants 11% 12% -1.0 Specialty Stores 35% 34% +1.0 Catalog/Direct Mail/Internet Pureplays 5% 3% +2.0 Off-Price/Factory Outlet/Warehouse Clubs 9% 11% -3.0 Other 23% 26% -3.0 Total Source: 2012 Dollar Share figures from Accessories Magazine. *2011 Dollar Share figures from The NPD Group, Inc./Consumer Tracking Service for Apparel / 12 ME Dec 11 Other includes Food and Drug Store, Variety Stores, Craft/Fabric Stores, etc. 52 ACCESSORIES • For Fall 2012, fur felt cloches were a strong feminine silhouette, certainly propelled by PBS’s historical hit series “Downton Abbey.” • Looking forward into 2013, trims and embellishments are minimal, permitting shape and form to steal the show. Silhouettes are ladylike and feminine. On the other side, glamour with embellishment and saturated colors make strong statements: femininity mixed with edge. • Fedoras remain the key silhouette with broader brimmed versions offering more versatility, taking the consumer from the beach to a nightclub in a way that an oversized floppy hat cannot. • For 2013, trend manufacturers are really banking on fashionable baseball caps (see photo) seen on many fashion runways, to inject newness and revive the classification. HAIRGOODS WOMEN’S HATS/CAPS1 Planned Purchase % of 2012 Dollar Sales into more manageable sizes. Those that weren’t packable did not sell through as they were too impractical and too dramatic for anyone but the boldest fashion star. | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM Pt. Chge. ’12 vs. ’11 2.0 was delayed from its scheduled Holiday 2012 release, it was still a main influencer of trends. “Downton Abbey,” originally set in the 1910s, was full of gorgeous hair pieces, too. In 2013, Season 3 is set in the 1920s, giving women lots of inspiration for hair clips, jeweled combs and flapperinspired beaded headbands. • Soft headwraps with ornamentation were key. These ranged from stretch fabric with a brooch detail (usually clear rhinestone), to beaded headbands backed with felt and secured with elastic. Thinner softer bands could be worn in the hair or across the forehead. • Neon and other brightly colored clip-in hair extensions (a la Nicki Minaj) added some trendy touches that appealed to women from tweens to twenty year olds. GAME CHANGER ASIA MAJOR Wild animals like zebras and cheetahs have left the Big Game reserve this season and joined their domesticated cousins like the cow. With the graphic black-and-white trend spilling over into Fall, our favorite animal prints are those in stark contrasts, whether Mother Nature intended them that way or not. From left, Pre-Fall 2013 fashions from: Givenchy, Christopher Kane, Jason Wu. Prada wasn’t the only designer looking East last season, nor will it be the last. As fashion designers turn to Asia for fashion inspiration (not to mention a new breed of highend consumers), they will find plenty of ideas at “Asia Week New York.” The week-long fair opens March 15, 2013 with the largest number of gallery participants since its inception. Above: Tane Seed Maio Motoko 2011 installation of fold screens 61 x 61 inches each, at the Lesley Kehoe Galleries during Asia Week New York. WELL-HEELED With over 150 stunning contemporary specimens on display, The Museum at FIT would be wise to prepare for stampedes of high-heeled, shoe-obsessed visitors. “Shoe Obsession,” currently showing and running through April 13, 2013, shows exactly why retail shoe departments everywhere are expanding. From top: Roger Vivier Eyelash heel pumps, Fall 2012-13; Alexander McQueen brace shoe, 2010, from the Collection of Daphne Guinness. FOXY LADY Sly and sleek, the fox has already found its way onto fashion runways, and now it’s appearing as an accessory motif. Here, a fox struts its stuff on a Jill Stuart silk dress, an elegant Melvin leather cuff and a cuddly Accessory Collective knit cap. PEARLY GIRL Get those pearls out and that ’do up…Holly Golightly is back! “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” hits the Broadway stage this month, bringing classic ladylike fashion along with it. Starring Emilia Clarke (unrecognizable without her “Game of Thrones” platinum hair), the show is sure to have many iconic accessories moments. Opening March 20, 2013 (previews begin March 4). 54 ACCESSORIES | MARCH 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM