PWC Jet Ski Beach Cart Dock Stand Instructions

PWC Jet Ski Beach Cart Dock Stand Instructions
(Please read the disclaimer on page 8 before you continue!!)
Materials & Tools needed to complete your PWC Stand:
Tools (Required):
Hacksaw, PVC cement (Oatey glue brand is ideal- 16 oz.), Medium/ Course sand
paper, electric drill, 3/8” drill bit, marking pen, and measuring tape.
Optional Tools (Not necessary):
Miter box (for straight cuts), and PVC Pipe cutter saw
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The following is a list of parts that will complete your PWC stand. Recommended
diameter for all pipes and fittings is 3” for added support and strength versus the
2” pipe. A majority of reputable hardware stores like Lowe’s or Home Depot will
carry all the PVC and fittings. If you are unsure of the specific pipes and or fittings
used, take these instructions with you and ask for store assistance or email me at:
wb2nco@yahoo.com.
List of parts:
(1 quantity) 10 foot of plastic plain end 3” dia. PVC pipe
You will need just about all of the material of the 10-foot pipe, which will also be
used for the cross-member support pipes. Again, recommended diameter should be
3” for more support over the 2” diameter pipe.
3” PVC Pipe
(4 quantity) “Street” or Sanitary Tees 3”
Make sure each “tee” has a female flange on each end.
3”
3”
3”
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(4 quantity) 3” 90-Degree Elbows
Each elbow should have one female end flange and one male end flange
3” Male end
3” Female end
(4 quantity) 3” Threaded Clean-out Adapter (optional) (for adding wheels
and/or added support)
Each adapter should have a threaded bottom to accept a threaded plug
3” at the top
4” thread at the bottom
Optional Wheels Parts
(4 quantity) 4” Threaded Plugs
Acts as a base to the stand and allows caster attachment
Screws in the bottom of the clean-out adapter (pictured above)
4” thread
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(4 quantity) 2.5” General Duty/ Industrial Swivel Casters (optional)
(Each caster is usually rated to 215 lbs. EACH)
2.5” caster
Stand Assembly Directions:
(Refer to diagrams at the end)
For all 2 seater PWC’s and stand-up type jet skis:
1. Cut (2) 3.5-foot sections off the length of the 10-foot PVC pipe. These will
be considered as bunk pipes. (This leaves you with 3 feet of PVC to use for
the cross-members, PLENTY of left over material).
2. Cut the left over 3-foot section in half to 1.5 feet (this will be used for the
cross-members).
3. To determine the length of the cross-member pieces compare the distance
between your PWC trailer bunks. Measure the distance between each bunk.
More than likely, you will only need 6”-8” PVC length to make up the
cross-members. Keeping in mind that the street tees will add a few inches
to each side.
4. It is recommended that you dry fit all the pieces together. Consider sanding
each fitting and end lightly to make it easier to take apart. (DO NOT force
the pipes together yet. They can be very difficult to take apart if you force
them at this time). The reason for this step is to double check that the
width of the stand is comparable to the width of the bunks on your
trailer. You may have to re-cut the cross-members to achieve the
correct length.
5. Dry fit again and check again for the trailer bunk distance match.
6. Once the stand matches the trailer bunks, disassemble and start gluing
the pieces together.
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Gluing the Parts Together
1. Apply glue to each end of the pipefitting. Start with the first 3.5-foot bunk
pipe.
2. Glue the 3.5-foot bunk pipe to two of the 90-Degree elbows. The bunk pipe
should slide into the female end of the 90-degree elbow pipe.
3. Make sure each 90-degree elbow is correctly aligned with the
corresponding end by setting the bunk pipe on level ground as soon as you
fit the 90-degree elbows onto each end. (You have to do this quickly due to
the quick set-up of the cement). Let dry for a few minutes.
4. Repeat steps for second 3.5-foot bunk pipe.
5. Once the elbows are attached to the bunk pipes, you will need to glue and
slide the 90-Degree elbows into the top of the street-tees using the cement.
Make sure all 4 street-tees are straight and facing each other (to fit the
cross-members).
6. Glue two cross-members on one side and slide into the street tees on one of
the completed halves of the stand.
7. Glue the two cross-members on the other side and slide into the street-tees
of the second half of the stand.
For all 3+ seater PWC’s: Cut (2) 4-foot sections off the length of PVC. This
leaves you with 2 feet of PVC to use for the cross-members, again PLENTY of
material left over. (If your watercraft has a larger hull, you may need to
purchase an additional 2-3’ of PVC pipe for the cross-members).
1. Cut (2) 4-foot sections off the length of the 10-foot PVC pipe. These will
be considered as bunk pipes. (This leaves you with 2 feet of PVC to use for
the cross-members).
2. Cut the left over 2-foot section in half to 1 foot (this will be used for the
cross-members). (If your watercraft has a larger hull, you may need to
purchase an additional 2-3’ of PVC pipe for the cross-members).
3. To determine the length of the cross-member pieces compare the distance
between your PWC trailer bunks. Measure the distance between
each bunk. More than likely, you will only need 6”-8” PVC length to make
up the cross-members. Keeping in mind that the street tees will add a few
inches to each side. (Again, if your watercraft has a larger hull, you may
need to purchase an additional 2-3’ of PVC pipe for the cross-members).
4. It is recommended that you dry fit all the pieces together. Consider sanding
each fitting and end lightly to make it easier to take apart. (DO NOT force
the pipes together yet. They can be very difficult to take apart if you force
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them at this time). The reason for this step is to double check that the
width of the stand is comparable to the width of the bunks on your
trailer. You may have to re-cut the cross-members to achieve the
correct length.
5. Dry fit again and check again for the trailer bunk distance match.
6. Once the stand matches the trailer bunks, disassemble and start gluing the
pieces together.
Gluing the Parts Together
1. Apply glue to each end of the pipefittings. Start with the first 4-foot bunk
pipe.
2. Glue the 4-foot bunk pipe to two of the 90-Degree elbows. The bunk pipe
should slide into the female end of the 90-degree elbow pipe.
3. Make sure each 90-degree elbow is correctly aligned with the
corresponding end by setting the bunk pipe on level ground as soon as you
fit the 90-degree elbows onto each end. (You have to do this quickly due to
the quick set-up of the cement). Let dry for a few minutes.
4. Repeat steps for second 4-foot bunk pipe.
5. Once the elbows are attached to the bunk pipes, you will need to glue and
slide the 90-Degree elbows into the top of the street-tees using the cement.
Make sure all 4 street-tees are straight and facing each other (to fit the
cross-members).
6. Glue the two cross-members on one side and slide into the street-tees on
one of the completed halves of the stand.
7. Glue the two cross-members on the other side and slide into the street-tees
of the second half of the stand.
Adding wheels (casters) to the PWC Stand
Adding wheels (or casters) to the PWC Stand allows you to move it simply while
your watercraft is on it. One benefit is that they are completely removable and
adjustable.
1. You will need four threaded Clean-out Adapters. The bottom of the streettees will slide into the top of each adapter. The bottom of the clean-out
adapter should be threaded 4” in diameter. This enables you to screw the
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threaded 4” plug into the bottom of the clean-out adapter. (It will act as an
attachment for the casters).
2. Glue the clean-out adapter to the base of the street-tees on the stand. Press
down firmly so that they seat correctly.
3. Using your hacksaw cut off the square part of the threaded plug so that it’s
flush.
4. Align a caster on the bottom of the plug and mark holes for drilling.
5. Using a 3/8” drill bit, drill 4 holes through the bottom of the plug.
6. Use ¾”- 1” bolts/ screws and nuts to secure the casters to the bottom of the
plug. Tighten each so that it securely fastens to the plug.
7. Screw each of the plugs into each adapter (which is now the bottom of the
stand.)
**Helpful hints**
*Some casters have a lever lock on them, allowing you to lock the wheels into
place on a hard surface.
*Wipe off the plug threads with a clean rag, as you might get plastic debris
from the PVC when drilling holes for the casters.
*Spray some WD-40 or silicone spray on the threads of the plugs to insure
easier installation.
*When you are through using the stand on the beach, wipe out any loose sand
and dirt that may have lodged in the threads.
Water Stand Usage:
After you have completed your stand you will need to drill 3/8" drill holes
along the top of the rails. This allows air to escape when setting the stand in the
water and prevents floatation of the stand. Also note the ends of the legs are
left open. This allows water to enter the stand, which will keep it in place
without the PWC on it. The open ends also allow for fast water drainage. Be
sure the wheels are taken off before water usage!
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Painting & Other Recommendations:
• A majority PVC pipe comes from the factory with a clear coat base on
the outside of each PVC pipe and fitting. It is recommended that the
bunks be sanded down to make it less slippery and more durable for
water usage. If you choose to paint your stand, sanding the entire PWC
stand is recommended. Use a PVC primer before you decide to paint
your PWC stand.
• Hardware stores also sell all necessary PVC pipes and fittings in
BLACK.
• Using your sand paper sand down any rough edges/ spots where the
elbows and other pipefittings meet the bunks.
• Some people have also purchased bunk trailer carpet and glued it onto
the top of the stand using contact cement
**Disclaimer**
The author of these instructions does not provide any warranties whatsoever with
regard to this information. In no event shall the author be liable for any damages
arising out of or in connection with the use of this information. The author of
these instructions assumes no liability or fault for breakage and/or damage to the
owner’s watercraft. The author will not be held liable for any damages that may
occur while the watercraft is either on the PWC stand, and/or while transporting
the watercraft on the PWC stand, and/or in or out of the water. All exclusive
rights to these instructions solely belong to j-littell@comcast.net. Do not make
copies and/ or distribute these instructions in any manner, way, or form.
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