The Era - Evans Hotels
Transcription
The Era - Evans Hotels
The Era THE LODGE AT TORREY PINES VOLUME 1 REL AX // RESTORE // RENEW 2 3 24 AW T H O R N C R E A T I V E CONTENTS 12 P UBL ISHER 7 Jessica Kaiser EDITORIA L EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Ryan Brandt MANAGING EDITOR Michael Persson RESEARCH & COPY EDITOR Joni Lacroix FACT CHECKER Roni Reino A RT & P RODUCTI ON ART DIRECTOR Breanna Clymer ASSOCIATE DESIGNERS Meredith Lindsey, Aimee Skidds PHOTO EDITOR 30 Kristin Burgess PROJECT COORDINATOR Cora Paradiso AD DESIGNER Holly Hancock PRODUCTION MANAGER Jennifer Legacy A DVERTISING VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Ben Morse SALES DIRECTOR Wes Hampton SALES MANAGER Michele Hazut Features [16] LI VES AQUATI C They didn’t know it at the time, but when five children arrived at SeaWorld, their experiences would leave a mark that would last a lifetime. BY SAR AH TUFF [24] TW O BY THE SE A 33 Jewell Court Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.610.0533 hawthorncreative.com © Hawthorn Creative 2014 All rights reserved. 4 Get to know the elegant La Jolla and the rugged and wide-open Torrey Pines. They’re side by side, but far from alike. BY ARCHANA R AM Departments [7] OURS T O Y O URS Go deeper with your stay and enjoy all that we have to offer. [12] THE NE IG H B O RH O O D Tour Mission Beach and Pacific Beach. [14] ON T H E AX IS Plotting your activities through The Lodge at Torrey Pines, Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa, and Bahia Resort Hotel. [15] C RAF T E D The Artisan Table. [30] CH E CK O UT A.R. Valentien: Where art and dining sit together. 5 OURS to YOURS EDITED BY MICHAEL PERSSON L A GOLF SAFARI For those who evaluate their vacations on their scorecards, The Lodge at Torrey Pines Director of Golf Services Rich Wallace takes us on a PGA-worthy tour of the region. TORREY PINES NORTH DEL MAR COUNTRY CLUB Start here because the North course is certainly easier than the South course. That said, it’s no pushover; it’s just much shorter. Like the South course, play this one in the morning to beat the afternoon rush. RESORT KEY: L The Lodge at Torrey Pines Next up, get off the coast and to a valley tucked into the hills 10 minutes northwest of La Jolla – no need for the freeway, so you don’t have to worry about traffic. The director of golf at this immaculate course gives a great welcoming speech that guests rave about. B Bahia Resort Hotel MADERAS Time this round to end around dusk – sunset here in the East County turns everything a gorgeous orange. As for the play, it’s classic target golf – more hazards and plays tighter than Torrey Pines North. My favorite hole is 18 – par 5 with a huge elevation drop. Just wind up and hit that sucker. TORREY PINES SOUTH Save the hardest for last. [Pictured here] This beast is the longest course in the lower 48, “tipping out” over 7,600 yards. When the “rough is up” (three to four inches high), it’s brutal. Stick to the white tees, and remember, the greens on this course break away from the bunkers. C Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa 7 OURS to YOURS OURS to YOURS Bianchi B C BIRDS IN PARADISE They can squawk, they can talk, some even go for a walk. Who are these fine feathered ambassadors inhabiting the bird room and about the resort? Here, we find out. MOJITO, MEET THE SOUTH PACIFIC B B P L AY I T A GA IN , MA N Sitting in Tangier Bar, close your eyes for a moment, and you could be on set with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca. But then again... First came the mojito, then the Bahia Mojito, which is given a splash of the resort’s tropical aesthetic to the raves of guests. 1 oz. of simple syrup in a highball glass C AS A BL A NC A TAN GI E R BAR The pianist has a baby grand to tickle. Old, belt-driven ceiling fans keep things cool. Waitstaff dresses Southern California casual. Drinks are both classic and contemporary. You can request “As Time Goes By” to be played. 8 ↔ ↔ Sam only had an upright. 3–4 orange segments and 4 mint leaves, muddled At Rick’s Café Américain, the heat came between Bogey and Bergman. 1 1/2 oz. of Bacardi O Orange Rum ↔ ↔ ↔ Dinner jackets and bow ties were de rigueur. Fill with ice Champagne in coupe glasses was standard. Bogey’s character would never have allowed it. Top off with club soda and garnish with an orange wedge BIANCHI A blue and gold macaw, he flirts with the ladies and whistles when he gets excited. C This Mississippi-style stern-wheeler cruises the bay that connects these two resorts. But later at night is when this turn-of-the-century replica shows its 150 passengers a rollicking good time. Once the kids disembark, after-hours (at 9:30 p.m.) kicks in along with the live band. Then, the Belle sets off once more across the bay, stopping in the middle for guests to take in SeaWorld’s seasonal fireworks that explode above head and reflect in the water. In the distance, San Diego’s city skyline adds another dimension to the romantic sights. But the hullabaloo is inside, where Bahia Resort Hotel General Manager Jim Greene describes the charged atmosphere as “…a social thing. You are so close to the band, you are practically interacting with them.” Karaoke, anyone? Mercer L A CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK Scooter MERCER Another blue and gold macaw, she loves to dance just as much as she loves to be massaged. SCOOTER This lilaccrowned Amazon parrot likes to nap and makes more noises than words. The emblem for The Lodge at Torrey Pines is the culmination of a famous Japanese artist, an American painter, and an executive director who knows a good thing when he sees it. “It’s a windswept, tortured image, honoring a tree that exists in one of the toughest habitats a tree could find itself in,” says Bill Evans of the Evans family, which owns and operates The Lodge at Torrey Pines, Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa, and Bahia Resort Hotel, referring to the intriguing motif of The Lodge at Torrey Pines. Evans, a professed art lover, saw a woodblock print created by the famous Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai – he of the famous cresting waves prints. “It had it all: a gnarled tree, the sky, the water. It was the same as what we had here.” Included in the final woodcut block were influences from the American painter Arthur Wesley Dow, whose landscapes own a similar minimalism. “The final block we created reads only ‘The Lodge Torrey Pines.’ I told my business partners at the time, who were complaining about the fact that we left out ‘at,’ that it wasn’t important. What’s important was that it looked good.” Chadwick CHADWICK The escape artist of the bunch, this Eleanora cockatoo can often be found by the bar begging for nuts. CORNELL A green wing macaw that’s a bundle of energy and knows a lot of tricks. RESORT KEY: L ENTERTAI NM ENT ON THE B AY Aboard the Bahia Belle, Mission Bay becomes an entertainment hub. Cornell The Lodge at Torrey Pines B Bahia Resort Hotel C Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa 9 OURS to YOURS OURS to YOURS C THIS STOOL WAS MADE FOR TALKIN’ Tropical art and artifacts abound throughout this tropical resort, but one piece in particular is deceiving. L BEER PAIRINGS, DISTILLED The Craft Beer Dinner Series marries two of San Diego’s drivers in its culinary culture: local beer and local food. Chef de Cuisine at The Lodge at Torrey Pines Jeff Dibble and Owner of AleSmith Brewing Company Peter Zien offer a few digestive opinions on this event. HOW DOES A CRAFT BEER DINNER ALTER HOW YOU CONSTRUCT A MENU? Dibble: I try to pick out distinct flavors, aromas, and mouthfeel. Once I identify the flavor profiles, and if somehow nothing jumps out at me, I have some books on matching flavors, as well as one on beer and pairings by Mr. Zien himself. OUTSTANDING IN THE WILD “Entering, your senses take over, and your mind quiets. Along the trails, coastal sage, rosemary, yucca, and the rare Torrey pine are interspersed among wild snapdragon, monkey flower, and lemonade berry. Listen closely for the buzz of hummingbirds emerging between the crashing waves on the beach down below. Nearing the end of the Broken Hill Trail, the Pacific Ocean sparkles before you. And, if you’re lucky, perhaps dolphins playing in the surf or the spout from a whale in the distance will greet your eye.” 10 B C CHAMPIONING LOCAL Around all three properties, products from San Diego businesses add that local touch. RYAN BROS COFFEE Mention morning joe at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, and it’s Ryan Bros, roasted in the heart of the city. liquid equivalent of food itself. COOLA SUNCARE Made with certified organic WHAT ARE GUESTS RECEIVING BY ATTENDING ONE OF THESE TAILORED DINNERS? Cheri Rampacek, the Spa Operations Manager at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, spends her “off” days as a nature tour guide, showing guests around Torrey Pines State Reserve. She sums up the draw of this untamed haven. L IN THE FLAVOR WORLD, WHERE DO BEER AND FINE DINING INTERSECT? Zien: Beer is an absolute natural for a food pairing. In many ways, it is the L It isn’t only in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast where the furniture talks. The “speaking stool” at the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa has been afforded similar powers. Found by Michael Rockefeller in a head hunter village in Papua New Guinea in 1961, the stool is the second largest of its kind in existence and designates who has the right to speak at fraternal headhunter meetings. In its native environment, to have a turn, a villager must get the speaker away from the stool by getting close enough to bang on it three times, which would give him the floor for as long as he could keep a fellow villager from doing the same. Dibble: “Foodies” are getting what they came for: a wonderfully prepared meal and an introduction into craft beer. Zien: The beer may be great, the dish may be great, but when perfectly paired, the experience is enhanced to a new and higher level. A CRAFT BEER DINNER IN CALIFORNIA? SOME WOULD CALL THAT HERESY, NO? Dibble: Before California wine, hops were often grown on the same land. I would argue that the best of both of these two drinks are produced here and deserve celebrating. Zien: I love a glass of great wine on occasion, but we brewers are able to bridge the flavors and aromas of fine cuisine in a way that is direct and easy to comprehend and enjoy. RESORT KEY: L The Lodge at Torrey Pines B Bahia Resort Hotel ingredients and tropical fragrances, these products are the “natural” choice for The Spa at Torrey Pines and The Catamaran Spa. MIMI & LU JEWELRY Borne from working the wardrobe department of Cirque du Soleil; handmade, playful jewelry sold at The Catamaran Spa. JADIENCE Herbal formulas designed for detoxification and healing muscles, formulated by a graduate of Pacific College of Oriental Medicine in San Diego. C Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa 11 the neighborhood the neighborhood MISSION BEACH With nearly two miles of beach, this Coney Island of the West Coast has an action-packed atmosphere, from the familyfriendly carnival feel to lively beachside bars. BY RONI REINO PACIFIC BEACH This three-mile stretch of sand once only drew college students and surfers; now, families and young professionals come seeking seaside retreats and hot spots. BY RONI REINO THE BAKED BE AR KONO’S CAFE 7 10 BE ACH CLUB THE FABULOUS RAG Beloved for its custom cookie ice cream sandwiches, this local phenom puts its spin on a timeless dessert. thebakedbear.com Sports and cold brews just steps from Crystal Pier; nightly music, like the sultry acoustic stylings of Aussie Sam Hosking. 710bc.com G I A N T DIPPER R O L LER C OAST ER WAV E H OUSE Rollerbladers and gawkers occupy the same stretch of ocean boardwalk at Belmont Park; kids go gaga for this 1925 wooden roller coaster. belmontpark.com Area surfers throw tricks on manmade waves; drinks served alongside hot tubs; tiki bars and fire pits add that quintessential SoCal vibe. wavehouse.com L U I GI’ S AT T H E BE A C H DR A FT Delicious Italian since 1985; scratch made, hand-tossed, renowned pizzas highlight the molto bene menu. luigisatthebeach.com 12 Where breakfast and lunch have been an awesome fixture since 1991; surfers and locals come to tuck in. konoscafe.com A women’s boutique for the professional with a sexy side; cocktail dresses and gypsy style are de rigueur. thefabulousrag.com Located directly on the boardwalk; beachside bar and grill serves up handcrafted fare and beers galore. draftsandiego.com 13 on the axis crafted ACTIVELY RELAXED SOURCED TO PERFECTION These four quadrants add up to a single unrivaled experience found throughout the hotels. BY MICHAEL PERSSON What goes best with the local food at The Lodge at Torrey Pines’s Artisan Table? A pinch of salt and pepper, a dressing scantily applied, and you. BY DAVID CHOATE REL AX C T L B THE CATAMARAN SPA C LOUNGE LIZARD Outdoor workout machines and soundproof treatment rooms. WEEKEND YOGA Escape the sun under lounge cabanas or romantic double-wides. B STANDUP PADDLEBOARDING C SUP at Bahia Resort Hotel. LUAU B B HANG GLIDING Going up at Torrey Pines Gliderport. AMONG THE CROWD Sun salutations over the Pacific on The Lodge at Torrey Pines’s Arroyo Terrace. RESORT CABANAS ALONE TIME Live entertainment at Tangier Bar at Bahia Resort Hotel. Sunset Luau’s at the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa. C KID’S CORNER HIKING TORREY PINES STATE RESERVE Eight miles through coastal wilderness and sandstone canyons. BAHIA BELLE BOAT CRUISE Live music and San Diego’s skyline aglow on a replica Mississippi riverboat. Beach activities balanced by trips to Legoland, San Diego Zoo, SeaWorld, and more. C Surfing lessons at Mission Beach. L L 14 L The Lodge at Torrey Pines B Bahia Resort Hotel FOUR SEASONS, ONE TABLE WINTER Corned veal cheek with sweet and sour eggplant, pickled mushrooms, balsamic vinegar SPRING Butter-poached Maine lobster with crushed fingerling potatoes, smoked paprika butter SUMMER Summer squash tortellini with arugula, picholine olive, brown butter, marcona almonds FALL B C ACTIVE RESORT KEY: ake a seat at the Artisan Table at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, and you may bite into an onion sweeter than a strawberry, slice into a finessed pork cheek, or swirl a crisply acid 2012 Gavilan Chardonnay, each taste grounding you in an experience that is distinctly San Diego and that is an extension of the hotel’s spirit that imparts a sense of place. C Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa Young broccoli with blood orange and green garlic What ties these disparately delectable elements together is the lodge’s affable Executive Chef Jeff Jackson, who has a network of local farmers who offer up their boutique wares for the great oaken Artisan Table, where 10 to 16 diners serve themselves at the family-style dinner. The ethos is less farm-to-table and more farm as a dredged from the Pacific off Baja, table, a decision Jackson embraced California. Each menu features mulyears ago. tiple appetizers, main courses, and When he arrived in La Jolla in 2001, desserts, ranging from stuffed Baja Jackson was intent on bringing the clams with bitter fennel and preserved kinds of dishes he was accustomed to orange to a fluffy chiffon cake with creating from the spoils of the famed grilled nectarines, cherry compote, Santa Monica Farmers Market to his and honey whipped cream. new home. The “Celebrate the Craft” Indeed, it is the intersection of festival annually held for local farmfarmers’ careful work and Jackson’s ers, with Jackson whipping up huge sharp and selective culinary eye that meals with the crops brought makes the Artisan Table worth to him, has formed the basis dining at. Despite the care Executive Chef for the Artisan Table. and savoir faire that goes Jeff Jackson (left) “There’s really no excuse into this edible array, any preworks alongside Chef de Cuisine not to use locally grown tense of “fancy” or “haute” Kelli Crosson. foods, especially here,” is absent, since this is about Jackson says. “The [Artisan raw, fresh, and synchronicity Table] menu is more freelance, and between two professionals. “I think it’s a hands-off approach for me, letthat’s why there’s such a kindred spirit ting the ingredients shine.” between chefs and farmers. There’s For the chef, that means a light nothing romantic about being a chef touch with spices and dressings, just or being a farmer,” Jackson said. “We enough to complement the fresh grow food, pull it out of the ground, crunch of spring radish and English make it taste good.” // peas, or fresh fennel and preserved orange inside the shells of clams 15 LIVES AQUATIC FIVE SAN DIEGO SEAWORLD EMPLOYEES UNDERWENT A SEA CHANGE WHEN THEIR VISITS TO THE PARK CHANGED THEIR LIVES FOREVER. BY SARAH TUFF 16 17 “IT WAS ONE OF THOSE DREAM-COMETRUE EVENTS, SEEING THE WHALES UP FRONT. HEARING THEIR EXHALATIONS WAS JUST MIND-BLOWING.” “SHE WAS FEMININE, SHE WAS GRACEFUL, AND AS I GREW UP AS A BALLERINA, I THOUGHT, ‘YOU COULD DO THAT.’” THE G OO D D O C TO R ASSISTANT CUR ATOR Overseeing animal trainers, the population of dolphins, birds, and pilot whales at the park’s Blue Horizons Stadium area. 18 Being from Oklahoma City, I hadn’t really been exposed to any kind of marine mammals, so as a 12-year-old, the Shamu show was mesmerizing. What really caught my eye was that there were a lot of male trainers, then there was this one girl – she had blond hair and blue eyes; TODD SCHM I T T // 4 3 SENIOR VETERINARIAN Overseeing the medical care and welfare of the park’s roughly 27,000 animals, along with a team of other veterinarians, animal care specialists, scientists, researchers, medical technicians, and other animal experts across the globe. (MAN WITH SEAL PUP) SEAWORLD SAN DIEGO WEN D Y R A MI R E Z // 4 2 she looked kind of like me. She was feminine, she was graceful, and as I grew up as a ballerina, I thought, ‘You could do that – perform, do ballerinatype moves with these animals.’ If I didn’t have 15 years of ballet, I don’t know how I ever could have done the hydro hops and spy hops with the killer whales and dolphins. Athleticism is a big part of our job. I walked away from that encounter saying, ‘There is no way an Oklahoma girl can do that job, but I want to be here.’ The way it inspired me and touched me, I can’t really explain in words other than a destiny that you see in front of you and say, ‘This is what I’m supposed to do.’ (WOMAN, DOLPHINS) SEAWORLD SAN DIEGO T HE BA LL ERINA In seventh grade, Ramirez traveled from Oklahoma City with her family to SeaWorld, where she was “blown away” by the relationship between trainers and animals during the Shamu show, and how the whales surfaced in dramatic elevated positions, called “spy hops.” Five years later, she moved to San Diego, an “absolutely frightening” move that paid off with a full-time job at the place where it all began. When he was 8 years old, Schmitt’s father – a large-animal veterinarian in Montana – and mother indulged their son’s childhood fascination with dolphins on a trip to SeaWorld San Diego. Six months after that vacation, Schmitt’s dad was killed in a small-plane crash, leaving his son to pursue his own dream of working with animals. Growing up in Montana, my parents thought I was a little bit strange, because there was no ocean around, but as a kid in the 1970s, I was very much into dolphins. I would go to the library and check out Dolphins (The Undersea Discoveries of Jacques-Yves Cousteau) before the days of computers. I loved to draw animals and swim – it was a boyhood type of fantasy that I developed toward whales and dolphins because of their unique ability to echolocate, diving capa- bilities, and ability to communicate with each other. With my dad being a vet, I decided I wanted to work with dolphins. They could see I was fairly committed, so they brought me to Southern California. It was one of those dream-come-true type of events, seeing the dolphins and whales up front, hearing their exhalations. It was just mind-blowing. When you come face-to-face with what you’ve been studying or reading about, it’s one of those life moments you cherish forever. 19 WATE R G IRL “THE CONNECTION WITH WATER IS A BIG PART OF MY LIFE. IT’S MY SERENITY; IT’S MY RELEASE.” L IN D Y D O N A H U E // 3 5 SUPERVISOR OF ANIMAL TR AINING Overseeing animal trainers and the population of dolphins at the park’s Dolphin Point attraction, which allows guests to learn about and interact with dolphins poolside, as well as enter the water to play alongside these amazing creatures. “MOM GOT THE WHALE TO WAVE, STICK OUT ITS TONGUE, AND SPLASH HER. AFTERWARD, SHE SAID, ‘I WISH IT HAD BEEN YOU!’ I WISHED IT HAD BEEN ME, TOO.” Born and raised on her great-grandparents’ farm near San Diego, Donahue remembers visiting SeaWorld at age 5, then plastering her bedroom walls with posters of whales and dolphins. “One drawing of a little girl swimming with dolphin was very inspirational to me,” she says. JODY W ESTBERG // 41 my kids in our pool. The connection with water is a big part of my life. It’s my serenity; it’s my release. In fact, some of my happiest memories with the animals are when we’re underwater, and guests can’t see. I feel a tremendous closeness to the animals when I’m in their environment. (WHALE, WOMAN WITH SEAL PUPS) SEAWORLD SAN DIEGO 20 THE PAT I E N T O NE (WOMAN WITH DOLPHIN) SEAWORLD SAN DIEGO I loved animals to start with, and seeing the closeness between a human and the animal – realizing that you don’t have to speak the same language and you don’t have to even be the same species to make a connection – that touched me. I asked questions: ‘How much do they weigh? How can I work with them? How big can they get to be? How much do they eat? Do they have babies?’ I was a gymnast and transferred into swimming in high school; I know that helped me with getting the job. I’ve been in and out of the water countless times every day during my 15-year career here. My 3-year-old and 1-year-old can already swim; I leave here and go home to swim with SUPERVISOR OF ANIMAL C ARE Overseeing animal rescuers, animal care specialists, and the coordination of the SeaWorld stranded animals rescue, care/ rehab, and return of nursed-to-healthy animals back to the wild. Growing up in South Dakota, what Westberg knew of San Diego consisted only of two things – Baywatch and SeaWorld San Diego – and was 12 years old during her first visit to the park. I remember my outfit because I wanted to look like a SeaWorld employee. They took volunteers out of the audience, and my mom just happened to be selected that day. I was excited for her and a little envious, too. She got to give the signals to get the whale to wave, stick out its tongue at her, and splash her. Afterward, she said, ‘I wish it had been you!’ I wished it had been me, too, but I got to share that experience with my mom. Back home, I wrote a letter to SeaWorld, and Jim Antrim, who was the curator of mammals, wrote back. He did not normally answer letters from kids, I guess, but he saw the post stamp from Sturgess, South Dakota, and he’s a big motorcycle enthusiast, and they have one of the largest motorcycle rallies there. He told me to get a good education and that growing up around large animals, like cattle and sheep, would be beneficial to getting a job at SeaWorld. I ended up being part of the rescue team at SeaWorld, and one of the first times my parents came to visit me in San Diego, I was working with the gray whale JJ. They got to see me be the keeper, feeding that large whale, and I took my mom in a special area to watch. She told me how proud she was of me and that she felt so special. It really hit me how full circle my childhood experience had come. 21 “I WAS ALWAYS THE KID WHO SAT IN THE AUDIENCE, SAYING, ‘PICK ME! PICK ME!’ AND THEY NEVER DID, SO I SAID, ‘WELL, I’LL JUST GET A JOB HERE.’” THE S H OWM A N BOB M CM AI NS // 4 9 ANIMAL TR AINING SUPERVISOR (MAN WITH SEAL) GARY SLADE Overseeing animal trainers, the population of California sea lions, and small-clawed Asian otters at the park’s Sea Lion and Otter Stadium area. A Chula Vista native and part of a family who had been baking cakes and breads for the San Diego area since 1925, McMains first experienced SeaWorld as a kindergartner. He knew immediately that he didn’t want to be a baker – he wanted to play with whales. Which is just what McMains has done for 30 years at SeaWorld, along with tending to a baker’s dozen (or three) of other swimming species. I was 5 years old, I watched the man jumping with the killer whales, and I was immediately hooked. Afterward, in our backyard swimming pool, I would take a broomstick and slap it on the water, and my little sister would jump like a whale, and I would raise my hands, and say, ‘Ladies and gentlemen, Shamu!’ On later visits, I was always the kid who sat in the audience, saying, ‘Pick me! Pick me!’ and they never picked me, so I said, ‘Well, I’ll just get a job here.’ I studied animal behavior in college and started as a park operations host in 1983, then I got into the entertainment department. It goes with my personality, always being a little bit of the center of attention; I’m a Leo. What inspired me to come here was to be in the shows – I like being on stage; I like performing. // BEST WISHES… AND FISHES The Sea World 50th Celebration Sea of Surprises SeaWorld turns 50 in 2014 and is throwing itself a surprise party. Stretching from the Pacific to the Atlantic oceans across all three SeaWorld parks (San Diego, San Antonio, and Orlando), the 18-month celebration includes unexpected moments happening every day. So far, the Surprise Squads – teams of high-energy SeaWorld employees – have given away: • 4,500+ free trays of fish for guests to feed to bat rays and sea lions • 450+ Dine with Shamu experiences • 2,000+ Quick Queue privileges • 450+ all-day dining certificates • 1,000+ stuffed animals 23 T WO BY THE SE A A SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE CO N T RIB UT IN G WRIT E R G O E S O N A N E IG H B O RH O O D WALK AB O UT T H RO UG H L A J O LL A A N D T O RRE Y PIN E S , AN D H E R TAK E AWAY S ARE E N DLE S S . 24 BY ARCHANA R AM 25 ake flight off a majestic bluff. Marvel at giant murals downtown. Swim through caves, learn about tide pools, let your jaw drop to a 360-degree view of the city, and dine on world-class halibut ocean-side. Yes, if you spend as much time in La Jolla and Torrey Pines as I have, you’ll be a broken record of superlatives – best beaches, best seafood, best hike, best brunch, the list goes on. And there’s even more to experience, from the time-honored to the truly local. Here, my favorite ways to eat, drink, be merry – and test your thrill threshold. To escape the cement, head to Torrey Pines State Reserve. Of the eight miles of trails – all of easy to moderate difficulty – the best combination is the North or South Fork with the Broken Hill Trail to take you directly onto Torrey Pines State Beach with the ocean on one side and dramatic bluffs on the other. torreypine.org 26 FAM DI EG O San Diego may be the land of flip-flops and T-shirts, but in La Jolla, I can let my fancy flag fly. Cocktail dresses, sophisticated dining, chic shopping along Girard Avenue – they’re all par for the course in this city so aptly nicknamed “The Jewel.” Here, three ways to partake in La Jolla’s luxury. Learn about the ocean ecosystem and its living contents at the Birch Aquarium, a part of the Scripps Institute of Oceanography dedicated to science education through creative exhibits and activities. One captivating experience is Whales: Voices in the Sea, where visitors can hear different whale calls and record their own. aquarium.ucsd.edu Part women’s boutique, part wine bar, Blended Industries is a Shopbop-like haven of on-trend staples from brands like BCBGMAXAZRIA and Parker handpicked by owner Summer Albertsen. For the boutique’s wine bar nook, she also handpicked the vintner – boyfriend and Bachelorette alum Jesse Kovacs, who knows a thing or two about tempting women. His Kovacs Bros. blends, not to mention the bar chairs and cozy couches, are a welcome respite for non-shoppers. blendedindustries.com Deep, meditative breaths are best exhaled at La Jolla Cove, a small beach of turquoise waters tucked between sandstone cliffs. For a good laugh, stop to watch show-worthy seals and plop down for a picnic while the kids frolic at the beach, the pool, and the park. If beaches are La Jolla’s strongest suit, excellent seafood is a close second. Set on the water, the upscale Marine Room is a San Diego institution, serving elevated surf – think nectarine-soy-glazed cobia with green tea noodles and eggplant miso foam – and turf from local meat purveyors, such as Mary’s Farm. marineroom.com (KIDS) BIRCH AQUARIUM AT SCRIPPS, UC SAN DIEGO; (KAYAKERS) ALAN C. HEISON / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Thirteen outdoor murals add a vibrant flair to downtown La Jolla Village, an effort spearheaded by Murals of La Jolla. The group hosts free guided two-hour tours, or you can DIY the whole affair. A camera is essential, if only for a snapshot against Roy McMakin’s colorful, Tetris-like mural Favorite Color on Eads Avenue. muralsoflajolla.com RETAIL, REL AX, AND REPAST (MURAL) 2014 PHILLIP SCHOLZ RITTERMANN TA K E A H I K E Changing tides and a vulnerable position between ocean and land make for a kaleidoscope of colors and creatures at the Shell Beach Tide Pools. Sea anemones, starfish, mollusks, and more abound at the shoreline, and exploring the area with little ones feels like your own personal SeaWorld. Dine on upscale Mexican street comida at the recently revamped Puesto La Jolla, which now includes a more spacious setting, charming patio, and wildly colorful graffiti art by Thomas Schoos, who designed TAO Restaurant in Las Vegas. (Kids will love the ice cream with fried cookies.) eatpuesto.com BRE AKI NG A SW E AT As evidenced by the fit, tan bodies that populate La Jolla and Torrey Pines, utilizing Mother Nature as your own personal gym is a way of life in San Diego – and for good reason. La Jolla Cove is one of the city’s most scenic kayaking spots, where paddlers can navigate through caves molded from seven fissures along the ocean to observe the area’s rich biodiversity, including leopard sharks, crabs, and sea lions. Get ready for a workout; on certain days, the ocean can be a rough bedfellow. At Torrey Pines Gliderport, the country’s top-ranked paragliding school, tandem flights send you off a staggering bluff and coasting over the Pacific before landing on Black’s Beach. Time of the day makes a difference. Thanks to subpar wind conditions, my flight lasted only a few minutes compared to the typical 10 to 15. And flyer beware: The end of the journey is marked with a steep walk back up to the Gliderport. sandiegofreeflight.com GREGORY PECK’S L A JOLL A Oscar-winning actor Gregory Peck has left an indelible mark on his birthplace of La Jolla, where he cofounded the Tony Award–winning La Jolla Playhouse in 1947. The theater company has produced Broadway favorites, such as Billy Crystal’s 700 Sundays and Jersey Boys, and cultivated generations of talented actors hoping to follow in Peck’s footsteps. Off stage, those footsteps lead to one of Peck’s favorite lounges, La Jolla’s La Valencia Hotel Whaling Bar, which has since morphed into Café La Rue. Peck may be gone, but what remains are artist Wing Howard’s murals – painted in the 1940s in exchange for a drink or two. lajollaplayhouse.org; lavalencia.com 27 THOSE I N THE KNOW Two locals dish on all things beautiful, delicious, and secret in La Jolla and Torrey Pines. S TA R T YO U R D AY T H E L A JOLL A WAY Pannikin Coffee & Tea From the mismatched furniture to the intimate community feel, this quirky, family-owned café is a refreshing alternative to megachain coffee shops. pannikincoffeeandtea.com The Cottage Where the outdoor patio is worth waiting for and their French toast puts all others to shame. Aim for a weekday or be ready to wait up to two hours on weekends. Ever the most courteous hosts, they keep fresh coffee and pastries out for the patient masses. cottagelajolla.com 28 BEACHY KEEN WHY LA JOLLA? WHAT NEVER CEASES TO AMAZE YOU ABOUT THE RESERVE? FOR A BITE? Our team loves Roppongi and Brink & Bell, which serves great sandwiches, scones, and coffee. Girard Gourmet always has lines running out the door. Surfing is San Diego’s marquee sport, and La Jolla Shores is the area’s best bet, whether you’re surfing or spectating. For a calmer, more secluded vibe, walk north to Scripps Beach. Here, the behemoth Scripps Pier juts out into the ocean, keeping most water thrillists away and their buzzing joyrides out of earshot. SHOP? Bowers Jewelers is like a miniGump’s from San Francisco, and Warwick’s is the oldest familyowned and -operated bookstore in the United States. UNDER THE RADAR? The Athenaeum Music & Arts Library. It’s a nonprofit membership library with art exhibits, classes, concerts, and plenty of music resources to get lost in. (Admission to the library and gallery exhibits is free, and materials may be used in the library but checked out by members only.) To see some of the best surfing in the city, head north to Black’s Beach. Though it’s a long descent to the actual shore from the parking lot on the bluff, you’ll be rewarded with horizon-wide views of the Pacific. FYI: Black’s is equally well known for its clothing-optional policy, a naturalist’s paradise to be sure. I walk without ever seeing evidence of man-made structures. There’s serenity in a place that’s pure nature – a wild place in the middle of an urban area. SPECIAL TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT? The best is in the spring if we’ve gotten rain for the plants or December through February for the gray whale migration. The cliffs are a great place to see whale spouts as they head south to Baja. FAVORITE VISTA IN THE RESERVE? Walk down the historic paved road to the North or South Broken Hill Trail, and follow the signs. There’s a peninsula-like point you can walk out on to see great views of the reserve and golf course. WHERE TO POST-HIKE? There’s a great lunch spot [at the Torrey Pines Gliderport]. And, of course, the best carne asada burrito is at Roberto’s on Carmel Valley Road with a nice view of the lagoon and Torrey Pines. VISTA VS. VISTA La Jolla’s best-kept secret, Windansea Beach is smaller and less crowded than other area beaches. Blue waters, soft sand, ample parking, and easy beach access are all pros, but the romantic sunsets are its biggest claim to fame. La Jolla’s Mount Soledad Natural Park boasts a 360-degree view of San Diego, and on a clear day, you’ll see as far south as Mexico and as far north as the San Bernardino Mountains. Surrounded by trails, chaparral, and photo ops galore, the park is home to a controversial Mount Soledad Veterans Memorial cross at its peak, which has inspired a long-standing debate over separation of church and state. (SIGN) BIRD ROCK COFFEE Bird Rock Coffee Roasters Named one of Zagat’s hottest coffee shops of 2014, this micro-roaster, located in La Jolla’s Bird Rock community, has plenty of accolades behind its farm-to-cup brews. Once you’ve ordered, there’s little reason to leave the friendly front patio, but if you insist, head a few blocks west for stunning ocean views – and even more stunning real estate. birdrockcoffee.com Ken King, Torrey Pines State Reserve docent (torreypine.org) An elderly lady I once met in line at the bank said it best: “Where else can you stand in one spot and see a historic church surrounded by hills with beautiful homes all cascading down to the ocean?” I feel so lucky, that’s for sure. Do you want to work out? Prefer peace and quiet? A romantic hideaway? In La Jolla, beaches are tailor-made. Goldfish Point Café Whenever I want to impress visitors, I take them to this dreamy perch atop La Jolla Cove. With views reminiscent of the Mediterranean, they’ll think you swapped San Diego for Santorini. Sandwiches come aptly served with Goldfish crackers. goldfishpointcafe.com Jerry Parent, GM and vice president of floral boutique Adelaide’s (adelaides.com) The Guy Fleming Trail offers one of the most comprehensive views at Torrey Pines State Reserve, including sparkling ocean views, well-aged bluffs, and native plants for the botany-lover. FI R S T CL AS S All SPF’d out? La Jolla has ways to flex your creativity and pick up a skill or two even while on vacation. At the luxurious perfume lab Tijon, enthusiasts with “a nose” learn the art of fragrance building with classes that range from quick guiding sessions to more in-depth, hands-on experiences to create your own custom blend made with the lab’s selection of more than 300 oils. Private classes are also available. tijon.com Take advantage of California’s yearround bounty with a farm-to-table cooking class by La Jolla Cooks 4 U, a culinary school that takes students through the spacious La Jolla Open Aire Market, held on Sundays near a local elementary school. With the veritable fruits of your labor, you’ll craft a three- to five-course meal in chef Jodi Abel’s kitchen before enjoying it porch-side at her home in Mount Soledad. A minimum of two students is required, but Abel can accommodate up to 16 for a fully hands-on class. lajollacooks4u.com 29 checkout WHERE PLACE MEETS PAINT T he A.R. Valentien restaurant at The Lodge at Torrey Pines takes its name from one of San Diego’s most prominent painters. His works represent more than the area’s floral beauty; they offer an authenticity that defines what Bill Evans wants his guests to experience. Evans has acquired 25 pieces from the Valentien collection for the restaurant and lounge but sees a bigger picture than just their showcase presence. “I’m a third-generation San Diegan,” says Evans. “For me, it’s about 30 place – these works speak to that. They are genuine, the way this hotel was designed. The craftsman style of architecture gives you a post and beam, and that’s all there is. No reinforcing; no hidden supports. It’s right there in front of you. The same goes for the local food and California-only wines we serve. Valentien’s paintings fit in with this desire to show an authentic sense of place.” –MICHAEL PERSSON 32