the angling report - Nikolski Adventures
Transcription
the angling report - Nikolski Adventures
“SERVING THE ANGLER WHO TRAVELS” $5 THE ANGLING REPORT A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER DATELINE: CHILE Trip-Planning File New Luxury Mothership: An On-Site Report (Editor Note: Just about every major fly fishing publication in the world is going to be publishing on-site reports soon about the spectacular new Nomads of the Seas mothership operation in Chile. Here’s the ‘real skinny’ on that trip from Angling Report correspondent Hugh Gardner, who was among the press dignitaries invited along on a check-out trip in December.) Ergas corporate group is said to be one of the most powerful in Chile). Ergas is also a pilot, adventurer and fly fishing explorer, and he has worked on his Nomads vision for years. He’s spent untold millions building a state-of-the-art “small ship” with the world’s best safety, communications and logistical capabilities. Atmosphere was just commis- T his past December I had the rare and privileged opportunity to represent The Angling Report in Chile on an inaugural media tour of Patagonia trout fishing aboard the new custom-built luxury cruiser Atmosphere, mothership of the high-tech Nomads of the Seas operation featuring jetboating and helicoptering into inaccessible, un-fished waters by day, while enjoying fivestar gourmet dining and cruising by night. In a word, wow! Nomads is the brainchild and pet project of Andres Ergas, a 40-year-old banker, hotelier and importer (the sioned this fall after months of shakedown cruises exploring new territory and conducting training exercises with crew and guides. Ergas is also something of a Chilean Jacque Cousteau, who has incorporated every imaginable ecofriendly feature into his operation and reached out to the scientific commu- SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSERS IN THIS ISSUE Yucatan Peninsula First-Hand Report On Mexico’s Isla Holbox PAGES 4 - 6 New Zealand This Company Focuses On Remote Fishing PAGES 6 - 8 US West A Follow-Up Report On Fee-Based Itineraries PAGES 8 - 10 Honduras Getting A Handle On Mango Creek Lodge PAGES 10 - 11 Alaska Update On Ugladux In The Aleutians PAGES 12 - 13 Subscriber-Written Reports Panama, Chile, Louisiana, Turks & Caicos, Mexico, Oregon PAGES 13 -17 February 2007 Vol. 20, No. 2 nity to conduct scientific research at the same time he is hosting international tourists aboard his vessel. He was with us on board our four-day cruise, along with a contingent of notable flyfishing experts (mostly writers and photographers) from the US, France, England and Japan, including celebrities like Mel Krieger and Dave Whitlock. There were perhaps 22 guests, served by a crew of 32. Also with us was a contingent of cetacean experts who were there to observe the 15 species of whales and porpoises that are found in the Patagonian Pacific. The Nomads operation, by the way, is expected to have great appeal to bird watchers, well-heeled trekkers and ecotourists of just about every stripe. There are well over 100 species of birds unique to the area, incredible snow-capped volcanoes and a vast wilderness of virgin maritime forests and islands. The scenery is simply stunning. About the boat itself, it would be impossible to say too much. It truly is brand-new and state-of-the-art in every respect, a technical wonder to behold and experience. Crew and staff are the very best. The cabins are great, the Chilean wines outstanding and the food service sets new standards for international fly fishing and ecotourism travel. There are even saltwater whirlpools and a masseuse on board. Talk about end-of-days - Nomads really does produce a kind of heaven on water! Perhaps the most remarkable thing is how Nomads puts a fly fisher’s most feverish winter daydreams together into one fantastic package. I have heli-fished before, but never from a floating launching pad able to move 100 miles at night to an entirely new watershed for breakfast. I have jet-boated up wild rivers before, THE ANGLING REPORT but never been dropped off and picked up in minutes from a floating five-star hotel. I’ve been on luxury cruises before, but never with this degree of attention to fly-fishing and never with better camaraderie. And never before have I seen evening slide shows set to music of group adventures that very day. Each guide is equipped with a digital camera and PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER Honor Roll Subscribers Don Causey The Angling Report encourages subscribers to file reports on great places to fish and/or important news developments that help the rest of us decide where to go (or not to go!) fishing. Subscribers who file unusually important and useful reports are placed on our Subscriber Honor Roll and are sent a complimentary Angling Report Honor Roll Fishing Cap. If you have been on an interesting trip recently, send in a letter-length report and see if you can get on our Subscriber Honor Roll. Our current Honor Roll Subscribers are: February 2007 Dick Gushman William P. Hall Dick Hamilton Dave Harman Charles R. Hartz Dennis Hatfield J.L. Heiman Jeff Hellerbach Jim Hendrix Mark Herzog Rodger Hess Jerry Hirzel Ronald W. Hoag Carl W. Hoffman Roger Hoffman Michael Hopper Richard Hosier Philip S. Humphrey David W. Hunter Jim Johnson Craig Johnston Evan R. Joubert R.F. Kayser E.P. Kelleher Mark Kelly Captain Mike Kenfield Robbie Kerr Don Kimel Garry King Adam Kline David J. Kornreich Tom Kovich Fritz Krieger Peter G. Kumpe MARKETING MANAGER Edi Bell-Suffoletto INFO. SYSTEMS MANAGER Nicholas Titus MANAGING EDITOR Barbara V. Crown EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Honor Roll Subscribers Peter Aravosis H. Whitney Bailey Frank M. Bainbridge Steve Baird Weaver Barksdale Will Bauer Mac Beatty Elbert J. Bivins Steve Blake Bernie Blau Matthew Bowes Philip E. Bowles Hal Boylan Harry J. Briscoe Debra Carr Brox Lucius E. Burch Bernard Butlin Jim Cannon Joe Carabello Otis Carney Daniel Carpenter Daniel Chait Russ Chandler Gary Coelho David E. Combs Matt Connolly Gordon L. Cox Bob Dahlberg Duane C. Dahlgren Craig Derby Don DeStefano John W. Dickerson A. Newton Dilley Terry Donovan Daniel J. Downey Donald G. Dusanic Chuck Eichner Mel Eisen Michael and Lara Ekwall Andrea Fioretti Leroy Fletcher Andrew French Giovanni Gatti Christopher Gill Thomas Gorman Robert J. Gormley Gary M. Gradke Fritz Grasberger Bob Grayson THE ANGLING REPORT Tracy Sanchez John Lachin Ken Langell Barry Leeds Marjorie Lilienthal Robert E. Long Norman R. Lucia Joe Mackay Jeremy Main Jan Maizler Arnold Markowitz George A. Marzluf Walter Maslowski Keith Matthews Tom & Kathy McCartney Gene McConnell Ernest E. McConnell Fred McCormack Ann McIntosh R.W. McMeekin Patrick Meitin Jim Merritt Edward H. Miller, III Hobby Morrison C. John Naquin, Jr. H. Eugene Noll Elmer E. Normandin, III Dott. Carlo Orombelli Thomas Parkinson Mark Pattie Frank Perkins John S. Powell Larry Pratt Don Pratten David Prescott -2- Mitch Redding Ferrario Roberto Bud Robertson Raymond B. Ryan Michael Santangelo Ted Schmidt John F. “Jeff” Schneider Marvin Schultz Stephen J. Selway Richard Schauer Richard F. Shafner Steven M. Shapiro Eric Shea Barry Silverman Ron Simpson Tom Snowden Ken Spalding Richard A. Spencer Tony Spiva I.T. Starr Pat Steed Keith Stinchcomb Avery Stirratt William S. Stoney William M. Stout Bill Stroh Paul D. Summers, Jr. Peter Swartz Steve Tennis Buz Tindle Robert S. Tomes Marco Travaglia Bill Turner Carl von Essen J.A. Waitz W.H. “Bill” Waldron David L. Warnock Eugene M. Weber Jim Williams Eruk Williamson Lynn Williamson Tom Williamson Leon H. Wittig Hubert S. Wood, Jr. Chatt G. Wright. Robert Wright Larry Ydens ILLUSTRATIONS Gordon Allen CONTRIBUTORS Jim Casada Gary Kramer William M. Cenis David Lambroughton Jerry Gibbs Paul Marriner John R. Higley Ray Sasser Tim Jones Robert Scammell Mel Toponce The Angling Report The Angling Report (ISSN: 1045-3539) is published monthly by Oxpecker Enterprises, Inc., 9300 S. Dadeland Blvd., Suite 605, Miami, Fl. 33156-2721. Periodicals Postage Paid at Miami, FL, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to The Angling Report, 9300 S. DADELAND BLVD STE 605, MIAMI FL 33156-2721. The Angling Report is not a booking agent, nor is it affiliated with a booking agent, outfitter or guide. How can we help you? 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Click on “Where Do You Want To Fish” and “What Do You Want To Fish For?” Thousands of pages of subscriber reports and previously published articles. Subscription Questions: Same contact details as above. On our web site, www.anglingreport.com, click on “Subscribe.” Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT the best scenes are compiled during dinner, a true innovation, and each guest gets a CD of their experience. But we’re here to talk fishing, so how was it? As Dickens might put it, it was both the best of times and the worst of times, in terms of results, but magnetic and electrifying every step of the way. After boarding at Puerto Montt, a seaport serving The Lakes Region of south-central Chile, we recovered from our flights in dinner hospitality and a soundless overnight sleep, waking up next morning near the mouth of the Rio Tic Toc, perhaps the size of the Snake River in Idaho. My group went off at high speeds along the coast, then up to its source lake, and four major tributary rivers which flow into it. Motorized dories had already been choppered in, and each subgroup set off along the lakeshore, or up one of its tributaries, high and swollen but relatively clear. My own boat caught a few rainbows of moderate size (anglers in both of the other boats caught more and bigger fish), and on the lake, one boat did especially well casting to the reeds near shore. Over lunch, we rendezvoused lakeside for a shore lunch built around fresh-grilled meats. That evening’s meals were terrific and the fun uproarious, especially when the day’s activities were fed back to us with a professional-grade digital slideshow carefully synched to heroic U-2 music. The next day found us 85 miles south, near the estuary of the Rio Yelcho. The main river was high and muddy, again about the size of the Snake or Missouri rivers. Our only realistic alternatives were hiking up spring-creek tributaries for mostly smallish browns and rainbows, including, I think, some slinky steelhead smolts. The setting could not have been more magnificent, with an enormous volcano and one of the planet’s most astonishing landscapes looming over us. Gentle rains on land got fierce with winds on the open sea. It was a tough jet-boat ride coming February 2007 home in leaky waders, but worth every discomfort to experience one of the most beautiful places on earth. Our third day on the Atmosphere, my fishing fortunes changed dramatically as two groups of us were flown in (on separate flights) to an Andean lake where dories had again been brought in by helicopter in advance. This lake has a name, but I’ll just call it Lago Cielo (“Heavenly Lake”). The formula was classic Chilean streamer fishing with heavy fast-sink lines and rubber-legged buggers or bunny-flies on the tippet. The famous names with us, including Krieger and girlfriend Rhea, Whitlock and wife Emily, photographer Jeff Lipsky of Outside Magazine, William Daniel of Britain’s Famous Fishing, Julien Lajournade from Voy- ages des Peches magazine in France, Bill Higashi of Japan’s Fly Fisher magazine, and several other stars - all agreed that in terms of size and numbers, this was the best day of brown trout fishing we had ever had. Emily astonished the sinking-line men by catching big browns on the surface with Dave’s classic mouse pattern. Rhea astonished everyone by landing six freshwater clams, which closed on her fly while dragging the bottom. It was just a lucky accident, but I landed the biggest brown on my guide Ricardo’s rubber-legged pattern, about three kilos. Normally, an angler tips his guide, but in this instance I got one of Ricardo’s handcarved wooden fly-boxes for “fish of the trip” (these gorgeous boxes of rare native hardwoods are available from Nomads for $100). -3- The best time to come fishing in Patagonia is not when I was there, early summer in South America, equivalent to spring runoff in the Rockies or Pacific Northwest. The primary season is late summer through early fall, just like the US in reverse (February through April). Assuming spring periods work the same there, too, the late spring, pre-runoff period there (September/October) should also be good. I would like to fish these great rivers again in prime time, when they’re low enough to read. But just like in Montana or Colorado, when the rivers are muddy, quiet Chilean lakes are full of fish, if you know what you’re doing. And even if the Nomads folks were still in exploring mode during my trip, they knew what they were doing. I learned a lot about catching lunkers on sinking lines while there. Who can criticize one of these great guides for not lining up the boat too well on a wild river for weak gringo casting when they’ve never rowed it before? It’s hard to describe the experience of flying over this untamed “cold jungle” wilderness just feet off the ground, but for me that was even better than my trophy brown. There are few wilderness areas in Alaska, and none in the Lower 48, so impenetrable and trackless as this, and none more beautiful. I suppose the bottom-line question is: “Is the trip worth what it costs?” That’s a pretty serious question when the weekly rates range from about $10,000 double occupancy for non-fishing guests to about $15K for double-occupancy fishing. Single-occupancy fishing runs upwards of $20K, even as high as $24K for a premium cabin. As far as I know, this is the most expensive ticket in fly fishing today. The answer to the above question depends on one’s main interest, I think, and on the time of year one takes the trip. The river fishing that was available on my abbreviated offseason trip was certainly not worth $15 to 20K a week, though I must adVolume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT mit Lago Cielo was in a class by itself. I can catch fish like those I caught on my trip a short drive from my Colorado home, and similar big boys in Montana or Oregon. The fishing this operation will be able to provide should be much more spectacular in the coming months, of course, as the rivers drop and clear. The salmon and steelhead now swimming the South Pacific (thanks to transplanting) also come up these rivers during the March-April period. The value of the trip at that time will certainly be greater than in December. Focusing on the fishing alone, to be sure, is not doing justice to the experience Andres Ergas has created. The overall wilderness experience… the luxury accommodations and food… the splendid air and sea infrastructure… and the improbable juxtaposition of all those elements makes this an unparalleled experience for the well-heeled traveler who does not get overly excited about a decimal point or two in the price of his (or her) pleasures. I do have some quibbles about the trip, to be sure, most of them in the area of technical services to fly fishers. The Atmosphere could carry a much better array of flyfishing equipment than it did in this instance, and the boat’s “wet-room” for drying waders and boots needs some improvement. Maybe a tying table should be added on the main deck. And, above all, the boat should be set up to offer fresh-ground Starbucks-style coffee rather than the Nescafe-type instant coffee that Argentina and Chile have traditionally been cursed with, sometimes made with roasted soy beans, for heaven’s sake! All of that aside, what Andres Ergas has created is far more than a fishing experience; it’s more like a dream come true in new realms of being, the trip of a lifetime for fostering new dreams of tomorrow. The stars of this trip were not so much the fishing as the incredible landscape and the extraordinary team of professionals who pamper you at every turn. What February 2007 is all that worth? Depending on your point of view, this is possibly a priceless experience. – Hugh Gardner. (Postscript: You can read much more about the Nomads of the Sea operation and/or book a trip on the Atmosphere by going to the company’s web site, www.NomadsoftheSeas.com. Also, as we mentioned last month, Dave Parker of Orvis Travel is booking this trip. You can reach Parker at: 800-547-4322.) DATELINE: YUCATAN First-Hand Report The Real Skinny On Mexico’s Isla Holbox (Editor Note: We first told you about the emerging tarpon fishery at Isla Holbox in Mexico in November 2005 (see Article No. 1780). Well, here’s an update, thanks to Managing Editor Barbara Crown, who visited and fished this area last month.) I sla Holbox (pronounced hôlbosh) lies off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula about three hours north of Cancún. It is a boomerang-shaped, 26-mile-long sliver of sand and mangroves that is becoming well known as a place to go for tarpon and snook. I visited Isla Holbox early last month to check out the new Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge that Frontiers International (Tel. 800245-1950. Web: www.frontierstravel. com) is representing on an exclusive basis and to gain a better overall understanding of this destination. I’ll start by telling you about the lodge, which is in its first year of operation. In fact, it was still undergo- -4- ing renovations when my husband and I were there. The villa sits about 100 yards from the water’s edge on a white sand beach. It’s a two-story structure that originally featured two bedrooms and a shared bath. When work is complete next month, it will have five bedrooms, each with its own private bath, and will be fully air conditioned. The lodge will handle up to 10 guests at a time. It has a large porch and terrace overlooking the beach, providing the perfect place to sit with a cold drink or nap in a hammock after a day’s fishing. Although the air conditioning was not installed during our stay, an ocean breeze kept us cool at night, and the sound of the surf carried up from the beach like a lullaby. When the renovations are finished, Isla Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge will be a lovely, relaxing place to base a fishing trip. The lodge is owned by Laurence John, who also owns and operates Jungle Tarpon Lodge in Costa Rica and Great Alaska Adventure Lodge on the Kenai Peninsula in Alaska. It is managed by Luciano Govi, a transplanted Italian who has lived and traveled all over the world. He is a gracious and most accommodating host, dedicated to making your stay as comfortable and successful as possible. His very appearance, bare feet and Bermuda shorts, sets the tone of the place. Laurence John picked Isla Holbox to build a lodge after scouring the entire northern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula looking for a destination that would offer quality fishing in addition to a unique environment. Isla Holbox is indeed a special place, and it is not for everyone. To start with, the place is completely un-commercialized. You won’t find any slick, sophisticated shops, restaurants or services. No fancy shopping or glitzy nightlife. What you find is a laidback, casual and relaxed place where time slows down and nobody cares what business you’re in or if you show up barefoot for dinner. The Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT streets are packed sand, the locals having rejected the government’s offer to pave the few roads in the tiny town of Holbox. The mode of transportation is by golf cart, bicycle or foot. A population of 1,500 means everyone knows everyone; and with only 400 tourist beds on the island, even at full capacity the place is uncrowded and calm. In the evening, people gather in the town square, where the tiny town hall and police station are flanked by “mini supers” (mini marts), several restaurant bars and a couple of coffee shops. There is an Internet café for those who cannot completely break away from work. If you listen closely, you’ll hear numerous languages spoken by visitors from all over the world. Some are expatriates like Govi who settled on Isla Holbox to escape the fast grind of life elsewhere. Although Isla Holbox is fairly new to Americans, Europeans and well-to-do Mexicans have been flocking here for the last 10 years or so. The ambience on Isla Holbox is a bit like the ambience on Los Roques but a bit lower-keyed. It’s important to know all this because most fishing packages on Isla Holbox are sold with breakfast and lunch included, but not dinner, which must be taken downtown. In that connection, there are a number of restaurants on the island serving mostly fresh seafood, basically whatever was caught that day. A lobster dinner (two and half tails grilled) will run about $20. Grilled fish is as inexpensive as $6, and the portions tend to be generous. Besides fishing, the activities one can take part in include swimming with whale sharks, kite surfing, horseback riding, birdwatching, snorkeling and diving. The laid-back, beach-loving spouse who doesn’t fish will do just fine on Isla Holbox. As for the fishing, the would-be client needs to understand that all guiding on Isla Holbox is provided by one guiding operation called Holbox Tarpon Club (www.holboxtar ponclub.com). Operated by Alex February 2007 Vega Cruz, Holbox Tarpon Club has 11 guides and uses 23-foot pangas with new Yamaha outboards. The company has been in business for 10 years and works with various hotels and agents, including Isla Holbox Fly Fishing Lodge, which is the only lodging operation on the island that caters strictly to anglers. The typical fishing day begins at around 6 am and concludes about 3 pm. There are three main fishing areas around Isla Holbox. There’s an area near the western end of the island about 30 minutes from the dock called simply Holbox. Back the other way, about an hour’s boat ride from the dock, is a place called Mosquito Point, where there’s a huge lagoon with a myriad of backcountry creeks and pools. And then there’s Cabo Catoche still farther east, about 1½ hour’s ride from the dock depending on conditions. Each area is a nursery for baby tarpon and snook that are present year round. There are also three rock piles offshore in water running six to 20 feet deep where 60- to 200-pound tarpon come through during the migration period from April through August. Since I was there in January, we were looking primarily for baby tarpon. I’d been told by Joe Codd at Frontiers and by other anglers who had fished there, that the baby tarpon are everywhere and eager to strike at just about anything you throw at them. An angler could expect one casting opportunity after another. Unfortunately, we had 20 mph winds on both days we fished. To make things worse, we were there on the full -5- moon, which caused lower tides than usual. Wind meant we needed to focus on sheltered areas in the backcountry. But the extra-low tides meant we couldn’t get the boat to most of those sheltered spots. Our guide, Darwin Vega Cruz, (Alex Vega Cruz’s brother) worked hard to find fish for us, but the first day was a bust. We saw one small snook that followed my fly but did not take. The second day, we gained an hour on the tide and were able to get into a few sheltered creeks and pools. After poling about for a while and blind casting under a partly clouded sky, we finally saw a pod of tarpon breaking the surface. We chased them for over an hour, occasionally losing them when clouds made it hard to see in the water. We got a few boils and some follows, but no hook-ups. When those tarpon disappeared, we moved to another area, way back in the mangroves where we found numbers of baby snook from three to five pounds. Again, we chased them around for over an hour, playing peek-a-boo with the cloud cover. Cruz called it quits just in time for us to putt-putt across a huge grass flat back to deeper water before the tide stranded us. Where we were fishing, the bottom was soft enough to suck a wading angler down to his neck, so getting out of the boat to do any wading was not an option. The fishing around Isla Holbox itself is in open areas for the most part where the wind would not allow us to find fish much less cast to them. A longer boat ride could have put us in Cabo Catoche, which is on the Yucatan mainland. The water there is reportedly gin-clear and the baby tarpon everywhere. But four to six-foot swells in the open water made getting there impossible without getting pounded for more than an hour. In spite of the difficult conditions, we found Cruz’s boat-handling skills superb. He gave us as smooth a ride as possible. It was also obvious that he knew the waters intimately, knowing Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT exactly when to slow down due to a rocky bottom and when and how far the tide would go out in each area. He was also quite knowledgeable about fly fishing and the quarry we were after. He checked all our leaders and told us which flies would work best where we were and when we should change them. We brought a selection of flies in mostly No. 2/0 and 3/0, including Cockroaches, Black Deaths, Lefty’s Deceivers and others we ordered through Frontiers’ tackle partner, 7 Days Outdoors (Tel. 800-4701232. Web: www.7daysoutdoors .com). So, would I return to Isla Holbox? Yes, definitely. I knew we were taking a chance going there during the winter when wind could be a problem, and it was. But it’s easy to see the potential of the area. The optimal fishing time here is from April to September, with fishing for the big tarpon best from May through August. November through March can be windy, but the baby tarpon are there. A seven-night/six-day package through Frontiers runs $2,495 per person based on double occupancy and a shared boat and guide. Single occupancy is $3,995. A five-day/fournight package is $1,795. That includes accommodations, pick up and return to Cancun, boat transfers from the mainland to Isla Holbox, open bar, breakfast, lunch and guided fishing. Dinners are on your own in town. Govi made excellent recommendations to us, and all the restaurants are a mere five-minute walk from the lodge. – Barbara V. Crown. (Postscript: I would be remiss if I did not tell you that other agents book trips to Isla Holbox, lodging their clients in various hotels and utilizing the guide service provided by Holbox Tarpon Club. Both Yellow Dog Flyfishing Adventures (406-5858667) and Angling Destinations (307672-6894) can arrange hotel accommodations and fishing on the island. The Hotel Faro Viejo (www.faroviejo holbox.com), which is located on the beach, also offers fishing packages.) February 2007 DATELINE: NEW ZEALAND FREE Fishing Report This Company Focuses On Remote Fishing (Editor Note: We recently sent Online Extra subscriber Frank Perkins on a FREE fishing trip to New Zealand’s Canterbury Region to fish remote high country rivers. All he had to do in return was file this detailed report on the fishing and services provided by his host, Backcountry New Zealand. See box on page 7 for more information on our FREE Fishing Program.) I have fished New Zealand several times with various lodges, so I was looking forward to a different kind of experience when the Angling Report selected me for a FREE Fishing Trip with Backcountry New Zealand (E-mail: mail@back country.co.nz. Web: www.backcoun try.co.nz). This company is an outdoor adventure outfitter specializing in fly fishing, hunting and corporate incentive travel. Nigel Birt is the head guide, and he and Liam Taylor manage the operation. The company is based in Methven, a small town roughly an hour’s drive from Christchurch on the South Island at the base of the Southern Alps. The trip they offered was for three days of guided fishing on remote rivers in the Canterbury high country. Access was to be by 4wd vehicle, and I was to stay in backcountry cabins (or huts, as New Zealanders call them) and fish nearby freestone streams for “medium-sized” brown and rainbow trout. The plan changed, however, when I arrived with fishing buddy -6- Bill Potter in early December to find unsettled spring weather. That meant the weather and water conditions in any given watershed could be poor. So the folks at Backcountry New Zealand suggested something that would give us more flexibility in choosing rivers with the best conditions each day rather than committing ourselves to a specific cabin location for several days. The logic seemed good to me, and I concurred with their judgment. I had them put us up at the Beluga Lodge (www.beluga.co .nz), where I had stayed on a previous trip, and our guide, Al Kircher, picked us up each morning in his Land Rover for an off-road drive up into the backcountry. Each day, we drove to a different river. Rides were about 1½ to two hours long, but they were scenic, interesting and surprisingly comfortable. Even anglers with a bad back would do fine on these drives. Despite the travel time, we had ample time for fishing, as Kircher was in no hurry to return to town in the evening. Our first day, we fished a good size stream that was wadeable in selected places. It had braided channels and a gravel bed with lots of open areas with gravel or sand bars. The other rivers were smaller. One was a medium-size stream in a scenic area with big limestone bluffs on both sides. The third was a small waterway in a shielded area, which we fished on a particularly windy day. The fishing was typical of New Zealand, meaning sight casting to large but wary fish. We walked behind Kircher at a good pace, covering perhaps five miles a day. Most of that was easy walking on gravel or sand banks, but occasionally we had to do some scrambling. We had to make fairly long and accurate casts in the wind, with Kircher coaching us into the right casting position. The fish were extremely selective, requiring eight to 10 fly changes to get a take. Occasionally, a fish would look at our flies before rejecting them, but more often than not they just plain ignored Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT them. Even Kircher was surprised at how selective they were, having us stick to more or less the same fly but just a different size or color. We fished with nymphs under a dry as an indicator and 12- to 15-foot leaders, increasing the challenge of accurate casting. We did not catch many fish, but that also is fairly typical of this destination. Hook-ups were scarce, and being out of practice meant losing some of the fish that did take. But almost every fish we cast to was a nice 16incher or better. Kircher did not put us on small fish. Of the fish we caught, they were mostly five pounders. We fished for both rainbows and browns and managed to catch more rainbows on this trip. Kircher was a delight. In addition to guiding for both fishing and hunting, he operates a specialized outdoor clothing and equipment manufacturing company, and he installs fencing and does other handy work on area farms. That means he knows every corner of the region and everyone who lives there. He is an aggressive off-road driver and will entertain you with tales of his adventures in the backcountry. Importantly, he could make real-time choices of fishing venues based on the present and predicted weather and took us to carefully selected rivers each day. He knew every rock, nook and cranny and where every fish would be. Kircher was energetic, well spoken and just plain fun. He was willing to fish as long as we wanted and packed good lunches for a mid-day break. When we were too tired to walk back to the truck, he would hike out himself and drive off-road to pick us up. The places we fished were nominally accessible by other anglers, although we often went through locked gates for which Kircher had keys. Angling pressure was not at all a problem, as we never saw another fisherman. The areas we fished thus seemed sufficiently isolated, although we were fishing in the early season when there are fewer anglers out. Later in February 2007 January is when most locals would be on the water. So how does this trip rate against my previous lodge-based trips? In my experience, the fishing is similar and both can involve lengthy drives in search of clean water and light winds. But they are different experiences. The folks at Backcountry New Zealand were efficient and adaptable. Because they are not tied into any one place as a base of operations, they were able to change our trip to overcome changing conditions. Also, we were originally supposed to fish with another guide who became ill. Kircher seamlessly substituted for him. He was on time every day, and there were no flaws in the logistics of the trip. I would gladly recommend them to anybody. On a more general note, due to the specialized fishing, I would advise anglers planning a trip to New Want To Go Fishing Free? All About Our Free-Fishing Program The Angling Report has always valued feedback from its subscribers. And the reasons are clear. For one thing, Angling Report subscribers are some of the world’s most experienced fishermen. Hence their judgments about places are broad-based and sound. On top of that, most subscribers’ insights on trips have a refreshingly candid air about them. That’s because they are written from a point of view that no other publication embodies – namely, the paying client point of view. So, here’s the deal. We have decided to take part of the money we used to spend on professional writers and give it to fishing professionals who are brave enough to have their services critiqued by Angling Report subscribers. Already, we have published more than a dozen subscriber-written “FreeFishing” reports, and our plan is to put an Angler/Correspondent on a stream somewhere each month. To be considered for the “job” of Angler/Correspondent, all you have to do is upgrade your subscription to Online Extra. The cost is only $2 a month for a service -7- that includes: unlimited access to our custom-searchable, 5,000-page database of subscriber reports and previously published articles; earlybird electronic delivery of your newsletter each month; and access to periodic news bulletins of importance to anglers who travel. At least one of those bulletins each month will describe a FREE fishing opportunity, and it will invite you to tell us why we should select you to take advantage of it. Sound like fun? Well, what are you waiting for? Sign up right now for Online Extra and get on the list of people invited to go fishing free. The easiest way to sign up is to go to our web site, www.angling report.com, and click on “Upgrade to Online Extra.” Or, you can call us at 800-272-5656. Just be sure, when you sign up, you send us an e-mail address that you check often. Also, be sure your spam filter is set low enough to let our bulletins get through. Enjoy! – Don Causey, Editor/Publisher. (Postscript: Online Extra subscribers now also get invited to review topquality fishing tackle and then keep it. See our web site for details.) Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT Zealand to fish several different places, whether with a couple of lodges or guide services like Backcountry New Zealand. That way you will be exposed to more country and types of waters. Keep in mind that New Zealand is probably the most specialized fishing you will ever encounter, and is not a good place for someone who wants to fish independently. – Frank Perkins. (Postscript: Backcountry New Zealand offers several all-inclusive packages. A six-day/five-night trip like Perkins’ with accommodations in cabins, farm stations or motels is $2,750 per person for two anglers. Eight days and seven nights is $3,675. A trip targeting high-country spring creeks and freestone rivers for seven days and six nights is $3,995, based on two anglers. And a sevenday floattrip using tent camps and a bed and breakfast goes for $5,975 per person, based on two anglers.) enjoy himself. For the sake of those who did not see the previous report, it is important to point out that Tagini is an Italian angler/booking agent who now lives in the US and creates fee-based fishing itineraries mostly for European clients. Fee-based tripplanning is the norm in Europe. The downside is, the client has to pay a fee. The upside is, the payment of a fee by the client insures that the agent is working for the client, not the guide/outfitter/lodge community. Tagini created the itinerary below free of charge for The Angling Report because he wants to gauge the reaction of American clients to fee-based trip planning. He wants to know what you think. And so do we. Tagini’s contact details appear at the end of his report, along with ours. Enjoy!) I t was actually quite easy for me to create an itinerary for the hypothetical angler you asked me to help, as I only had to think about a fishing trip for myself. I am, after all, SPECIAL REPORT Trip-Planning File A Follow-Up Report On Fee-Based Itineraries (Editor Note: Last month we told you all about Claudio Tagini’s fee-based approach to planning a trip out West, and we promised to follow that report up by publishing one of his fee-based itineraries. Well, here it is. Tagini created it especially for us with the following hypothetical angler in mind: a mid-50’s angler on a modest budget who is more interested in the overall experience of fishing the American West than in catching particularly large fish or large numbers of fish. Moreover, the hypothetical angler wants to explore remote, scenic parts of Wyoming, preferably focusing on on-yourown dry fly fishing. Just be aware that the written report here is a truncated version of what a paid client would get. An actual paid itinerary would include the names and phone numbers of all hotels, rental car companies, etc. Moreover, it would contain a detailed map, and it would come in a handsome notebook. Guided fishing days and/or agreed-upon floattrips would also be all paid for, with the costs added to a single final bill submitted by Tagini to the client. All the paid client would have to do is follow instructions from day to day and February 2007 about the same age as your hypothetical angler, and I like mostly on-yourown trout fly fishing. Moreover I often travel on a modest budget. My main problem in creating this itinerary was, I needed to know more about our hypothetical angler’s particular likes and dislikes. What kinds of waters does he (or she) prefer? What kind of food? If our hypothetical angler had been a real person, I would have found out all of this. Ultimately, I fell back on creating the kind of trip I would like in this part of the West. In the course of doing that, I strayed a bit from the geographical area you told me to focus on. Here is the proposed itinerary: Friday July 27, 2007: Arrive late afternoon/early evening at Idaho Falls Airport. Complimentary shuttle to -8- Shilo Inn, where the rental car is waiting. Shilo Inn has many amenities: view of City Park (where the Snake River flows gently towards the falls for which the city is named); indoor heated pool; sauna and exercise room; bar and restaurant, where the buffet breakfast is served (included). The All Season Angler fly shop is not far from the Inn. For dinner, the Sandpiper, next door, has great food and a decent wine selection. Many other restaurants to suit any taste and pocketbook are within a few blocks. Saturday July 28, 2007: Approximately one-hour drive to lodging and another 15 minutes to trailhead, bordering a neat stream (Editor Note: Tagini says he does not want to name this stream in a publication with general circulation, as it cannot sustain the kind of pressure that might result. The name would be given to a paying customer, however.) The hike is not strenuous and there is no hurry anyway, as the Gray Drake hatch was invented by God just for gentlemen: It never occurs before mid-morning. Nice riffles and small pools can be reached within 15 to 20 minutes. The best stretches require a 30- to 45minute hike. Not in the mood to hike? Travel another 20 miles or so to reach McCoy and Bear creek and fish for wild spotted Snake River cutthroat. These streams, on the Idaho/Wyoming border, are the spawning grounds for large cutts that come up from the Palisades Reservoir in spring. By late June or July, when these streams become fishable, the larger fish have already returned to the reservoir. However, some nice, pan-size fish remain. Beautiful, pristine and without crowds – these are streams where angling success is not measured by the size of the fish and quantity, although the latter is certainly not lacking. McCoy is almost all reachable by car. Bear Creek can be accessed by car only in a small section near the forest road. Dinner: Choose between diners with wholesome home-style cooking, Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT a nice grill or five-star dining at the nearby South Fork Lodge. Sunday July 29, 2007: One could easily spend a week fishing the area, alternating between these three remote streams, or take a 35-mile side excursion to Victor, Idaho, to fish one of the many streams that flow west into Idaho from Wyoming’s Grand Teton range. Moose Creek, the most southerly, has a foot trail upstream, starting elevation, 6,950 feet, arriving about four miles later at Moose Creek meadows, elevation 7,650 feet. Teton Creek is another pretty creek – a few miles further north, just past Driggs. Also well worth the effort, although requiring a much longer drive, are Robinson, Fall and Bechler in Yellowstone Park, not to mention Squirrel or Conant creeks. Monday July 30, 2007: Weekdays are the best time to fish the Grays River. Drive about 30 to 40 miles (road half paved; the rest is gravel) and you’ll find some nice spots along this pretty cutthroat stream. Grays River flows northward in the BridgerTeton National Forest, where it is joined by the Little Grays, another great stop. From here, the Grays River flows west, paralleling the last miles of the Snake River. The two streams meet near Alpine, Wyoming, where they both enter Palisades Reservoir. Tuesday, July 31: Return to Grays River in the am to fish those riffles left untouched yesterday. In the afternoon, drive toward Jackson along the scenic Snake River Canyon. Take a detour to the right on Highway 191 toward Pinedale, following the Hoback River (too often snubbed but worth fishing) prior to arriving at the lodge in Jackson. Dinner: Endless choices: sushi; Italian; affordable, family-oriented diners, such as Teton Steak House on Pearl Street; a lively local brewery/restaurant. Or fine dining at The Grill at Amangani. Wednesday August 1, 2007: Earlier the better start this am for opening day at Flat Creek. Leave the stretches close to the highway and the Flat Creek Hatchery as far behind as posFebruary 2007 sible. Bring a thermos with hot coffee, as early mornings at well over 6,000 feet are often on the cool side. Dress in layers, as it can get pretty hot by later morning when the sun rises over the 10,000-plus-foot Table and Sheep Mountains to the east. You will need drinking water also. Fish with a light rod (4 weight maximum), long leader and a fine tippet. With even moderate skill, by lunchtime you should have a satisfied grin. For the late afternoon, from Flat Creek’s Hatchery Road, drive north nine miles to Moose Junction, then turn left on Teton Park Road and cross the bridge over the Snake River. Even though it isn’t “remote,” one might want to stop and fish the productive spot where Cottonwood Creek enters the Snake River. Or, travel another four miles or so further, turn right on Cottonwood Creek Road(unpaved, so a high-clearance 4wd is recommended). Continue on this road for quite a while until you spot obvious trails descending steeply into the riverbed below. This area is aptly called “Frustration Ponds.” The fishing here is technical, so the averageskill angler will have to sweat it out a bit. However, once you figure out the right fly and manage to deliver it with a nice drag-free presentation, you can hook some nice-size trout here. Because of the difficulties, both of the terrain and the fishing itself, it is advisable to hire a local guide to fish this spot, at least the first time. Suggestions available on request. Thursday August 2, 2007: A guided floattrip on the Snake River offers a -9- change of pace, and a different type of fishing with the spectacular backdrop of the Tetons against a blue sky. Note: This must be booked in advance. Or, fish in relative solitude on the Gros Ventre River, not far north of Jackson. I know of a few remote spots where a dedicated fisherman can catch cutthroat from 15 to 20 inches on a dry fly. Friday August 3, 2007: Between the Gros Ventre River and Frustration Ponds, nice fishing can be found in relatively remote areas, not far from very public ones. The remote Moose and Teton creeks (see Sunday) are approximately 25 and 45 miles from Jackson, respectively. The Grays River is about 45 miles to the South. Saturday August 4, 2007: While in the area, a floattrip to some remote braids of the South Fork of the Snake would be a grand finale. Note: This must be booked in advance. Or, fish your way back to Idaho Falls: Hoback, back to the stream fished the first day, or take the back road to fish Moose Creek. Sunday August 5, 2007: Since flights from Idaho Falls Airport usually depart fairly early, photograph your rental car. If any ding shows up when the agency picks it up, you’re covered. Take the complimentary shuttle to the airport. The cost of all this is $1,800 (single); or $1,000 each for two persons. That sum covers my fee, lodging, small car rental, detailed maps with easy directions to the best fishing spots, hatch chart for local waters and a list of reliable fly-shops, outfitters/guides and restaurants. If you substitute the small car with an SUV (recommended if you want to go to Frustration Ponds or drive unpaved roads on the Teton west slope), add $230 to the trip’s cost. Not included are: travel to/from Idaho Falls; gasoline; meals; fishing licenses; fishing gear; anything else not expressly mentioned, including guided fishing and/or floattrips. – Claudio Tagini. (Postscript: If you would like to give Tagini some feedback on his proVolume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT posed itinerary, or contact him about a custom itinerary for yourself, he can be reached at: AWAFLYFISH@aol. com. Web: www.awatravel.net. You can copy us on your e-mail communication by cc-ing: doncausey@msn.com.) Briefly Noted Things To Do... Places To Go... New Developments So, is it safe for Americans to go fishing in Cuba now that the Democrats have taken control of the US House and Senate? We’re hearing that some anglers have jumped to that conclusion. After all, it was Republican lawmakers, especially those with Cuban-American constituencies, who supported President Bush’s efforts to tighten the economic screws on the island nation. Democrats have traditionally had a more lax attitude about the Cuban sanctions. We ran this idea by the Treasury Department’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) at press time, and the feedback is worth noting. OFAC spokesperson Molly Millerwise told us the change of guard in Washington has not resulted in the Treasury Department being ordered to do anything different as regards the enforcement of economic sanctions against Cuba. The sanctions originate in the State Department, by the way; the Treasury Department is simply mandated to carry them out. “There are no changes to the embargo itself, nor anything that would invoke a relaxation of economic sanctions,” is the way Millerwise put it. “As far as anglers are concerned, it is business as usual.” Indeed, as this is written, Americans who have traveled to Cuba through a third country continue to be hit with civil penalties. If you check out the Civil Penalties Actions and Enforcement Information posted to the OFAC web site (http:// www.treas.gov/offices/enforcement/ ofac/), you’ll find that OFAC collected $52,579 last year from individuals who violated the sanctions. While two of those cases were for purchasing Cuban cigars over the Internet, the rest were for spending money on food and lodging in Cuba February 2007 between 2000 and 2005. That’s a lot less than was collected in 2005 (a whopping $617,494!) but still enough to warrant your attention. We’ll keep you posted. Remember that humanitarian relief project on Christmas Island that we told you about in the November 2005 issue? Subscriber George Maybee, you’ll recall, was organizing an effort called Friends of Christmas Island with the intent to provide needed medical supplies and services as well as safe drinking water to the residents of this popular fishing destination. Well, the first shipment of 15 crates filled with medical equipment and supplies was on its way to the island as we went to press. Maybee expected the shipment to arrive by the first week of this month. Both Maybee and Brian Gies of Fly Water Travel (800-552-2729), who is helping Maybee spearhead this project, were on Christmas Island coordinating the relief effort as we went to press. They promised to send us an update upon their return. Here at The Angling Report, we applaud this effort and encourage anglers who love Christmas Island and would like to help the people there to get involved with Maybee’s organization. You can contact Maybee at 303-655- -10- 9831. E-mail: at gkmaybee@aol.com. Exactly what is the story on Mango Creek Lodge on the island of Roatan in Honduras? We’ve mentioned the place several times over the years, and have asked repeatedly for subscriber feedback from anyone who actually goes there to wet a line. Well, Angling Report President/Publisher Don Causey spent an afternoon there in late December and has this to say about Mango Creek: “The so-called Bay Islands off the east coast of Honduras – Roatan, Utilla and Guanaja - are up there with the most striking places in all of Latin America. The mountainous, heavily forested islands rise sharply from the ocean and have very irregular coastlines. If it weren’t for the tropical foliage and swarms of hummingbirds, the terrain would suggest coastal Maine. It’s not the sort of terrain one commonly associates with flats species such as tarpon, bonefish and permit. “My first visit to the Bay Islands was to the now-defunct La Posada del Sol Lodge on Guanaja back in 1994. I was not impressed with the fishing at all. Seems La Posada back then fished several over-pressured flats quite some distance from the lodge, but focused most of its efforts on a smallish flat right out front where it was common practice for the guide to chum bonefish in range with handfuls of injured minnows. Spin fishing was the norm. “My experience at La Posada left a bad impression of the Bay Islands as a fishing spot, and it has been an uphill fight for me to consider the area as anything more than a charming vacation area. Now, after a brief visit to Mango Creek Lodge on Roatan, I’m not so sure what to think about the Bay Islands. I had the opportunity to Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT visit Mango Creek briefly last month when a cruise ship I was on made a stop nearby. “I made a point of visiting Mango Creek because the owner, Terry Kyle, has reportedly been working hard to stop the bonefish netting around Roatan. And, according to a report we ran in 2004 from Jim Klug of Yellow Dog Flyfishing, his efforts have met with some success. Klug described Roatan back then as having ‘tremendous potential.’ “Indeed, based on the quick look I had, Mango Creek is the kind of place a laid-back angler would enjoy. The cabanas where you stay are built right out over the water so you can hear waves lapping as you drift off to sleep. There is an unhurried air about the place – a sort of fish-when-youwant schedule. While I was there, much was being made of fishing from kayaks, the pedal type that allow you to cover a lot of water very quickly. Kyle says he plans to encourage more clients to fish from kayaks. In that connection, he plans to start arranging all-day kayak trips that start with clients being dropped off with their kayaks at likely fishing spots some distance from the lodge. “Most of the bonefishing at Mango Creek is done by wading. Sturdy boots are a must here, as many of the flats are covered with broken pieces of coral. Grass flats predominate, but that does not equate with mud on Roatan. Most of the flats are firm and very wadeable, Kyle says, going on to note that the grass does mean you need to bring no-weight flies, preferably weedless ones. “The markedly unhurried and unregimented air about Mango Creek no doubt stems from the fact that Kyle is not interested in building a big fishing business around the retirement home he has created for himself. At most he wants to break even, he told me, and create employment for the many people who work for him. If, along the way, a fishing program helps him conserve the area – including the bonefish – so much the better. February 2007 “The shortness of my stay prevented me from doing much more than walk a flat out front of the lodge where almost all of the clients who come to Mango Creek spend at least some time. Judging the quality of the bonefishing at Mango Creek on the basis of what I saw on this one flat is unfair. In about an hour, I saw some three dozen bonefish, some of them quite large. The fish did appear to be spooky, however. The client I walked the flat with had no luck at all enticing a strike while I was there. “Kyle and his head guide, Terry, were quick to point out that the fish elsewhere around the island were much less spooky. And, due to the ongoing effort to stop netting, the numbers of fish are increasing. A good angler, I was told, could catch six, seven or more fish in a day. “What really whetted my interest about Mango Creek was owner Terry Kyle’s talk about permit and tarpon. Kyle admits openly that he is not a saltwater fisherman. His fishing background is the Rocky Mountain West. Many of his clients come from that region, too. The result is, I came away convinced Kyle does not fully understand the fishery around Roatan. Yes, he’s had some Grand Slams, he says. And any client who wants a tarpon on a given day usually gets one, he says. “Pressed on the subject of tarpon, Kyle urged me to hurry with my meal so there would be time for him to take me on a quick run to the eastern end of the island where he said there were numerous channels flowing through flooded mangroves. Along the way, -11- he pointed out various landmarks and points of historical interest, most of them revolving around the pirates that once dominated the area. The area he took me to was perfect tarpon habitat. There were deep, fast-flowing rivers everywhere that emptied onto grassy flats. Apparently, it had not occurred to Kyle that tarpon could be a major draw for his lodge. Seasonally, he says, some very big fish can be caught. 30- to 40-pounders are common. “Before I left, Kyle urged me to come back, or send someone in my stead who could help him figure out just how good the tarpon and permit fishery is around Roatan. As this issue goes to press, I’ve proposed that he offer a FREE Fishing Trip through our Online Extra Program. If he does, I’ve promised to select an Online Extra subscriber who has helped other lodge owners figure out fisheries, or at the very least a very experienced tarpon and permit angler. Online Extra subscribers will know shortly if a trip has been offered. “In the meantime, if my description of Mango Creek intrigues you, the cost of a week-long stay here (six days fishing, seven nights) is a modest $2,180 double occupancy. That’s the all-in cost for everything from arrival at the airport on Roatan, including booze. You can get more details by going to the lodge’s web site at: www.mangocreeklodge.com. The email address is: mangocreek@hughes .net. For sure, there is a place on our Honor Roll for the first subscriber to book a week-long trip to Mango Creek and file a detailed report afterward. See page two for details on our Honor Roll Program.” If you are planning to fly Lufthansa to a fishing destination this year, you should know the airline has implemented some hefty new fees to transport fishing gear. Upon checking in at a Lufthansa counter in the US or Canada for a flight to Europe, you could pay from $160 to $180 (depending on the gateway) each way to Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT check in angling equipment weighing up to 33 pounds. The fee is part of a new baggage policy that calls for charging excess baggage fees for all sporting equipment based on a complicated schedule determined by the kind of equipment checked in and the specific flight route. Within Europe, the fee for transporting angling equipment ranges from $25 to $50 US (20-40 Euros) depending on which countries you fly to and from. You can see the fee schedule at: www.luft hansa.com. (Click on “Information and Services”, then “Excess and Special Baggage.”) What makes this all complicated is the fact that a number of reservation agents we spoke with over the phone were unaware of the new policy. Some thought it only applied in Europe. Application of the new policy appears to be spotty at this point, with some agents charging the hefty fees and others foregoing it. Additionally, if you connect to a Lufthansa flight through another carrier and check your bags through, the fee may be calculated differently by the carrier you check in with. To be fair, Lufthansa is not the only airline that has started charging extra fees for sporting equipment. Air Canada implemented a special fee last year for some hunting equipment, and has announced plans to begin charging for other sports gear as well. Currently, angling equipment is still accepted by Air Canada under the free baggage allowance. Clearly, new airline baggage policies are going to make small travel rods more popular. They will also likely inspire some anglers to use baggage-shipment services. We are looking into those services now and will have a report on them soon. Continuing subscribers will remember our reports about Ugludax Lodge on Umnak Island, Alaska. The place is way out in the Aleutian Islands, beyond Dutch Harbor, near the village of Nikolski. Ugludax offers offshore fishing for salmon and haliFebruary 2007 but, as well as salmon and Dolly Varden angling in the various streams and lakes that riddle the island. The lodge was managed by MUM Alaska for a number of years, but recently came under the control of the Aleutian Pribilof Island Community Development Association, APICDA (www.apicda.com). A nonprofit organization, the association develops commercial and sport fishing operations in the Bering Sea and Aleutian Islands with an eye towards enhancing the long-term social and economic viability of coastal communities. We checked in with APICDA’s Director of Tourism George Weaver to learn what the association was doing these days with Ugludax Lodge. Weaver says they are continuing to offer salmon and halibut fishing, angler who breaks the world halibut record while fishing with Ugludax. That record, by the way, is 459 pounds and was caught in the region around Umnak Island. You may soon be seeing a lot more about Ugludax Lodge, as APICDA is aggressively marketing the place through various outlets, including numerous outdoor shows around the country. They are even working with Football Hall of Famer Larry Czonka, host of the TV show North to Alaska. The fishing season starts in May for Dolly Varden and halibut. Halibut can be fished until September and Dollies into late August. Sockeye salmon show up in July and are available to late August. Pinks and silvers appear in early August, with the pinks running until late September and the silvers available until October. A seven-day/six-night all-inclusive package runs $2,900. That includes round-trip marine transportation from Dutch Harbor to Nikolski, where anglers previously had to shell out another $200-plus for air transportation. For more information, visit the lodge’s web site at: www.nikolskiadventures.com; or call 888-430-8329. but have invested in a new charter boat for fishing in the open water. The new vessel is a 32 x 11-foot twin diesel cabin cruiser made locally in Homer, Alaska, and designed to handle the waters around the island. Big halibut are a major draw of the area. These fish are mostly pursued with heavy tackle, but he says they are also offering halibut fishing on the fly during a window of opportunity in August when the normally deep-water fish follow the salmon into the shallow water. Weaver admits this is a very specialized fishing with sinking tips and a large shrimp fly designed to get down deep. Persistent anglers can land 30- to 40-pound halibut this way, he says. For those who want to fish for really big halibut, Weaver says they are offering a $100,000 prize to the And, finally, the angling community, particularly the fly fishing catch-and-release community, tends to be pretty blasé about the threat animal rightists pose to the future of hunting and fishing. The presumption seems to be that fly fishermen are a gentler group of people than hunters, who knock things down and kill them with high-powered bullets. All fly fishermen do is entice fish to bite and then waltz them around a bit before sending them on their way. Who could object to that? Well, the truth is a growing number of people object to fishing. Moreover, some of the most vociferous opponents of fishing particularly object to catch-and-release fishing. Ask an Inuit what he thinks of “playing with your food” the next time you go to Alaska. Ask an animal rightist how he -12- Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT (or she) feels about waltzing a fish around before turning it loose. The fact that an angler does not kill and eat what he catches makes the “cruelty” involved gratuitous and – from a legal standpoint – hard to defend in light of the way animal rights law is evolving. What occasions these unsettling comments is the news that Scotland is on the verge of banning the use of live bait in fishing. Importantly, the main reason for the ban is to reduce animal cruelty, not prevent the spread of unwelcome species. One wag has asked if the ban will stop the use of worms as well as minnows. So, what does this have to with catch-and-release fly fishing – the sport of gentlemen? No fly fishermen would even think of using bait. The important thing to watch is the underlying trend of animal rights law. If it is “cruel” to attach a minnow to a hook, it’s cruel to attach a fish to a hook. If that cruelty is completely gratuitous – that is, unrelated to human consumption – it is unjustified and therefore wrong. Does anyone else share this concern about the growing threat to fishing? Send comments to: doncausey@ msn.com. OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Angler Network Forms. Our policy on these forms is we publish excerpts in the newsletter of Angler Network Forms as received and exert no censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. Only paid subscribers may file Angler Network Forms or request printouts of them. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing an Angler Network Form yourself. You should have found one inside this issue of your newsletter. For details on how to order printouts of Angler Network Reports, see Trip-Planning Database Service Box.) Subscriber Teri Rosette has filed an interesting report about the peacock bass fishing she enjoyed in Panama this past December. Rosette says she and friend Ross Beatty were in Panama on business, looking at resorts for Beatty’s incentive travel company and decided to spend a day fishing. They stayed at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort (www.gamboaresort .com), located on the Panama Canal in the Soberania National Park about 30 minutes from Panama City on the Pacific Coast. Gamboa is a luxury resort offering everything from ecotours to spa treatments. The resort also borders the Chagres River and Lake Gatun where it offers guided trips for peacock bass. Rosette and Beatty fished with a guide named “Toleco,” who took them into the Panama Canal itself, amidst big cargo ships, to fish side channels and islands where the fish hung around tree roots and other structure. Rosette says Toleco located fish quickly by throwing out a small minnow on a line. If nothing hit the minnow within a few minutes, Rosette says they were off to another spot. When they found fish, she says the action on fly rods was nonstop. Rosette says they started on red, orange and bright green poppers, February 2007 which the fish hit voraciously for several hours. In the afternoon heat, she says the fish stayed in deeper water but eagerly hit clousers in red and green. The fish they caught were small peacocks in the one- to three-pound range, but Rosette says they were plentiful and lots of fun. She says there were larger fish around, but they did not land any. She says she and Beatty regret having only one day to fish, and would happily have fished every day they were in Panama. Rosette warns fellow subscribers that the guides are not catch-and-release anglers. They will want to keep a few fish for their families. Besides the fishing, Rosette says Gamboa Rainforest Resort offers many activities for non-anglers and is the perfect place to bring the family -13- or a spouse. She says the staff is very knowledgeable about the rainforest, and there are a number of exhibits and tours, as well as an aerial tram that allows visitors to experience and learn all about the local flora and fauna. She eagerly recounts one experience when their fishing guide took them to a small island for a lunch break. She says several monkeys came right into the boat out of curiosity, and one managed to take her sandwich right out of her hand. The cost of a trip to Gamboa depends on the package, time of year and type of accommodations you book. Room rates alone can range from $135 to $650. Rosette says they booked the fishing independently for $250 for the day, but Gamboa Rainforest Resort offers a three-night/ four-day fishing package for $585 per person, based on double occupancy. (Postscript: We wouldn’t be doing our job if we did not mention that Rosette’s friend, Ross Beatty, will be booking incentive travel trips and vacations to this destination through his company Beatty Group International, 503-664-3340.) Last month we told you about the customized fishing trips organized in Argentina and Chile by Tim Rafford Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT of Patagonia Angling Adventures. This month, we have a report on the same kind of service offered by Alex Prior of Southern Exposure (Web: www.flyfishingcoyhaique.com. Email: info@flyfishingcoyhaique .com). The report was sent to us by subscriber Dean Pierose, who says he has been to Chile with Prior four times now. He says he uses Prior’s service because his trips are completely focused on what the client wants to do. He says Prior knows the region so well and has so many contacts that he can put together a trip that features any combination of fishing experiences, whether an angler wants to fish only dry flies, float or wade, or fish spring creeks, lagunas, freestone rivers or lakes. “He knows every water within a 200-mile radius of Coyahaique and can give you six options for anything you want to do,” says Pierose. His last trip was during Chile’s spring season this past October/November in the Alsen Region, where he fished the Rio Baker and Rio Cochrane, along with several lakes. He says he spent 12 days fishing with his son for rainbow and brown trout. Their trip began at the Rio Baker Lodge on the mouth of the Rio Baker. They spent four days there and fished the Baker and Cochran rivers, which he says fish well in the spring as they are glacier-fed streams. He says they were able to sightcast to spawning rainbow trout, and although they did not catch lots of fish, the ones they hooked were quality fish. He says they experienced the most incredible caddis hatch he has ever seen on the Baker, with non-stop action on 17- to 25-inch fish for two hours. On the Cochran, he says the water was so clear they could see 20 feet down to the bottom of the river. He says this is the prettiest stream he has ever seen, but that lots of wind can make the fishing tough. After a few days, Pierose says they moved to Lake Tamango where they stayed in a cabin with a view of the Cerro Castillo and fished several February 2007 small lakes in the area. He says they fished from a boat, as well as from the banks of the river. They used large dry flies to land as many brown trout as they wanted. From there, they moved to Mincho’s Lodge on the Simpson River and fished the surrounding waters for six days. Although a number of the streams there were blown out from rain, Pierose says they got all the fishing they wanted on various lakes. Their last two days found them at a cabin by a lake where he caught six browns from 24 to 26 inches while wade fishing in the snow right in front of their cabin. In addition to the fishing, Pierose says Prior arranged for various activities for his wife and his son’s fiancé. He says they enjoyed horseback riding, visiting local museums, shop- ping for handmade crafts made by local artisans, viewing petroglyphs and other activities. He even arranged for all of them to take a train tour into the wine country while in Santiago. Pierose gives Prior an all-excellent rating and says he is the only operator he uses in Chile. He gives the cost of these customized trips as roughly $400 per day for anglers and $200 for non-anglers. That fee goes up an additional 20 percent when a lodge stay is involved. If you’ve doubted our previous reports about fishing in southern Louisiana post Hurricane Katrina, subscriber Tony Kirk says he was there this past November and again in December, enjoying what he describes as “fantastic” redfishing. Kirk says he -14- and a friend fished with Captain Gregg Arnold (Tel. 504-237-6742. Web: www.fishinthelandofgiants .com) and reports catching 22 redfish in two days. His three largest fish each weighed 31 pounds. He says they fished south of New Orleans, sightcasting in water only one to two feet deep. He says the water was so clear, he could see the fish open their mouths to suck down his fly. Kirk says he has fished more than 30 times with Arnold over an eightyear period, and that every winter he catches several fish in the 20- to 30pound class each day, weather permitting. Also, he says he normally does not see another angler on the water. An experienced international angler, Kirk equates the quality of the fishing and overall experience with bonefishing in Seychelles or trout fishing in Argentina. As for New Orleans, Kirk says the area has recovered from Katrina, with the French Quarter back to normal and lots of restaurants and other places open for business. “Don’t believe the reports in the media,” he says. “I visited New Orleans just two months after the storm, and I don’t believe the fishing was ever affected.” He goes on to encourage fellow anglers not to think twice about traveling to southern Louisiana to experience sight casting for big reds. He gives a cost of $450 per day, and says anglers can either stay at Arnold’s house or easily find accommodations in New Orleans. (Postscript: Next month we’ll have a full-length report on a FREE Fishing Trip to southern Louisiana offered to an Angling Report Online Extra subscriber by Richard Whitner of Gulf Coast Outfitters. Whitner tells us the sportfishing business in his neck of the woods is continuing to suffer because traveling anglers mistakenly believe the fishery was irrevocably damaged or that the area infrastructure has not recovered from the hurricane. He says guides there need support in the way of angling business, and he hopes Angling Report subVolume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT scribers will help get the word out.) Continuing subscribers know we have filed several reports on the highpriced bonefishing services provided in the Turks & Caicos by a company called Silver Deep (Tel. 649-9465612. Web: www.silverdeep.com). While some anglers have criticized the $750 daily fee this company charges, subscriber Jeff Davis says the services provided by Silver Deep’s Arthur Dean are well worth the price. “I have fished all over the world, and I keep returning to T&C to fish with Dean,” says Davis, noting that he fishes twice a year with him. This past November, he says, he made his 25th trip with Dean. Davis says he continues to fish with Dean because he consistently puts him on numbers of bonefish. He likes the wide open flats Dean takes him to, with imminently wadeable hard bottoms of white sand, plus the numerous creeks and bights he knows that are reminiscent of Andros Island in the Bahamas. Davis says he has seen schools of spawning bones with Dean that filled the water column from top to bottom. He says he regularly catches fish in the five- to sixpound range and occasionally a 10pounder. “Even a novice should catch a lot of three- to four-pounders with Dean,” says Davis. Besides the fishing, Davis says the guide/client relationship he has with Dean is excellent. He describes the man as a unique “character” who sings all day in the boat and is very intelligent and knowledgeable about the area. Additionally, he says he is reliable, creative and just a great person to be with on the water. “I have recommended Dean to many fishing friends, and they have all reported great experiences,” says Davis. Interestingly, Davis says that for the first time in 15 years of fishing the Turks & Caicos, he spotted a school of tiny permit last April. He reports accidentally catching one about the size of his fist. Also, he says he has seen tarpon in the west Caicos ocFebruary 2007 casionally. He does not recommend planning to fish for these species, however. Instead, he says anglers should try barracuda and blacktip sharks on fly for a change of pace. Remember The Palometa Club (Tel. 866-723-7776. Web: www.palo metaclub.com), that new permit and bonefish lodge located on the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico in a town called Punta Allen. We published a FREE Fishing Trip report about the place last April (see Article ID 1826). It was written by subscriber Don Rollins, who raved about his entire experience. So, how is the club doing now that it has wound up its first season? Two subscribers fished there this past December and have filed follow-up reports. the first is from Louis Weber, who booked his trip through Wild On The Fly (866-899-7008). Weber reports enjoying many shots at permit and bonefish despite a week of dicey weather. Out of six days, he says he was able to fish five, with two days of sunny skies and three of gray overcast skies and rain. He says they hopped from island to island, seeking the leeward sides to get out of the wind. Even in bad conditions, Weber says his guides put him on fish. “They are amazing,” he says. “They can see anything and won’t quit.” He says that although fishing ends at 4 pm, his guides were willing to chase after permit spotted only 15 minutes from quitting time. Additionally, he says they were excellent instructors and had his girlfriend catching fish -15- although she had never fly fished before. As for numbers of fish, Weber says he has never seen so many permit, and that there were enough bones to catch fish all day long. Weber also has good things to say about the lodge itself and the staff, with a special nod to the meals served to them. He says owners Kay and Dick Cameron are wonderful hosts whose personalities are a great plus. He gives the entire operation an enthusiastic thumbs-up and reports a cost of $2,900. The second report is from subscriber Donald Beck, who fished at The Palometa Club this past December, also through Wild on The Fly. He too reports winds of 15 to 25 miles per hour the six days he fished and rain on four days. Nonetheless, his group of six anglers landed two permit (a 10- and 12-pounder), one tarpon, two snook and “a fair number” of bonefish. He says they saw lots of permit but found the snook and tarpon scarce. As for the guides, Beck says they are very familiar with the area. Furthermore, Beck notes their exceptional communication skills and positive personalities. Regarding the lodge, he says the Camerons were great and the staff fantastic. And, finally, five subscribers have filed reports on steelhead fishing trips. The first is from Tom Carson who fished the Deschutes River in Oregon this past September with The Riffle Fly Shop (Tel. 800-411-3330. Web: www.theriffleflyshop.com). He reports that he and four friends experienced some difficult fishing, with only two or three takes or good hookups for each angler and only four landed steelhead between them over a three-day period. Despite that, he says the fish were big and provided some exciting action in fast water. He says the guides, Matt and Dillon, knew the river and which spots to work, but the fish simply were not biting aggressively. “The results were definitely not due to lack of effort on anyone’s part,” he says. Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT The trip involved floating the river in one raft while the supply raft traveled ahead to set up the evening camp. The anglers and guides would stop to wadefish various stretches. Carson says the wading was tough, with melon-size rocks in deep, fast water. A wading staff is a must in this river, he says. Also, he says they often fished places where there was no room to back-cast, requiring roll casting to get a fly to the fish. Carson goes on to say that this trip is not about catching a lot of fish but rather the excitement of a big steelhead taking your fly and heading for fast water. He also says the country and wildlife are a large part of the experience, particularly the spectacular views within the canyon. He gives The Riffle Fly Shop an all-excellent rating for service and the guides’ knowledge of the river and the fishing. He says he does not recommend the trip for anglers who are not physically fit or who expect to land 10 or more fish a day. He gives the cost as $1,500 for a three-day float, including license and flies. Still in Oregon, subscriber Steve Christensen fished the Grande Ronde River with Discovery Outfitters (Tel. 888-347-1200. Web: www.discovery outfitters.org). You may recall Christensen’s previous report about this operator regarding a trip for smallmouth bass on the John Day River last June (see November 2006 issue). Discovery Outfitters is a Christian-based outdoor adventures company that organizes a variety of group trips, including inexpensive float fishing trips. This past October, Christensen returned to fish steelhead trout with them and reports hitting the B-run, which he says is a small run of mostly male but extra-large fish running up to 35 inches. He says they were a week early for the main run, and the steelhead were scarce. Fishing was by drifting and wading, using rafts to access fishing spots. He says they floated different sections of water each day, returning to the same base camp in the evening. ChrisFebruary 2007 tensen says the Grande Ronde below the canyon is very wadeable and amazingly easy to fish. The banks in other sections can be up to 30 feet high, but the stretches they fished were easily accessible. Christensen gives a cost of $350 for his three-day floattrip. He reminds interested subscribers that Discovery Outfitters is only a general adventure trip outfitter. While the guides know the river and where anglers will find fish, they are not actually fishing guides. This trip is for independent anglers who can figure out the fishing more or less on their own. See a photo of Christensen’s steelhead in the Photo Gallery section of our web site at www.anglingreport.com. Moving up to British Columbia, subscriber Roy Parks says his group of six anglers caught more than 40 steelhead on the Dean River this past July/August while fishing with Moose Lake Lodge (Tel. 250-742-3535. Web: www.mooselakelodge .com). He says this was his second trip for steelhead, and he managed to catch four fish himself that ran 12 to 20 pounds. Parks says Moose Lake Lodge has a remote lodge overlooking the Dean Channel close to the ocean. He describes the Dean River as a typical steelhead stream with lots of rocks and rapid flowing water. He says anglers must wear felt-bottomed waders or spiked boots to keep from slipping on the rocks. He also says the fishing is hard, as the river is fairly wide. He says most everyone there used a spey rod to cast across and drift down all day. He says they used jet boats to -16- travel up and down the river to various pools holding steelhead and then got out to wadefish. The lodge on the Dean is small and sparse but comfortable, says Parks. Up to six anglers are housed in small cabins, with meals served in the main lodge. Parks gives the staff good marks and says the guides were excellent. He says the lodge and guides were able to completely outfit him for five days, providing everything from underwear to flies when Air Canada lost his luggage. In addition to the steelhead fishing, Parks also spent a few days at Moose Lake Lodge, 90 miles inland from the Dean River area, where he fished for trout and salmon. He says he enjoyed two days of fly-outs and caught countless small rainbow trout and salmon from 12 to 25 pounds. Parks says he customized this trip with Moose Lake Lodge and reports paying $6,200. He says he enjoyed fishing with this operator so much that he will return again this year. Subscriber Isadore Yablon also fished for steelhead in British Columbia this past August and reports experiencing hot-and-cold fishing on the Skeena and Copper rivers while fishing with Skeena Wilderness Charters (Tel. 800-485-7696. Web: www.bcsteelhead.com). Yablon says the fishing was fair overall, but that the fish he encountered were fresh and active albeit on the small side. They averaged about 10 pounds. Fishing was by floating to fishing areas and then wading. Yablon warns that wading on these rivers is difficult due to lots of slippery rocks. “You need to be a sure-footed wader,” he says. Also, he says there are lots of overhangs in places close to the rivers, requiring the ability to roll-cast 30 to 40 feet with a two-handed spey rod. In addition to steelhead, Yablon says the Skeena and Copper also offer fresh Coho and sockeye salmon. He says the sockeyes were so fresh they were still silver. He says they took the same flies they used for the steelhead, Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT and some days saw more sockeyes hitting their flies than trout. As for Skeena Wilderness Charters, Yablon gives them an excellent rating overall. He says his guide, Kory Doll, was the outfitter’s son and was very good. He says they provided all the flies and use strictly barbless hooks. Lodging was in the outfitter’s home, which Yablon says is set up quite nicely to host angling clients. He gives a cost of $750 per day for this trip. Finally, over in the East, subscriber Jeffrey Vickers fished for steelhead in New York. He reports fishing the Canadaway, Chautauqua Creek and 18-Mile Creek in Hamburg County with Vince Tobia of Cattaraugus Creek Outfitters (Tel. 716-4792327. Web: www.cattarauguscreek outfitters.com). Vickers says he contacted Tobia after reading our reports about the self-guided fishing he arranges in the Bahamas. When he learned Tobia also guides for steelhead he booked a trip for that. Although Vickers says he had fished for everything else in the Northeast, he had never fished for steelhead. He had heard that the steelhead runs in the tributaries off the Great Lakes had rebounded, and he wanted to give them a try. Vickers says he averaged eight hook-ups a day and landed about four or five steelhead each day. He also landed a five-pound brown trout. Vickers says they were going to fish the Cattaraugus Creek first, but it was too high due to early snow and rain, so they started with the Canadaway. He says this was a good stream to get initiated into steelhead fishing. He says there were a lot of other anglers, and it was not pristine water, but he got enough shots at fish to figure out the fishing. He hooked eight steelhead in all and landed five of them. The next day he fished Chautauqua Creek, which he describes as a beautiful, small creek running through a majestic canyon. The fishing was slow, with only two landed fish. He says they went back to the Canadaway for more action and found it was less crowded than the day before. He caught another four fish there. The last day he fished the 18-Mile Creek and picked up a few more fish. Just about all the fishing was from the bank, with only some wading. He says he had expected crowded fishing conditions but found it was not that bad. As for Tobia, Vickers says he is an intense angler who loves to spot fish and will stay on the water until dark. He says he plans to fish with Tobia again and gives the cost of his trip as $300 per day. And Finally... Subscriber Feedback on Grand Bahama Report (Don Causey Note: My report in the December, 2006 issue about the Pinder brothers and their fishing operation on Grand Bahama Island inspired a couple of subscribers to offer a contrasting view of the virtues of fishing around Freeport. I welcome this kind of feedback, as the push and pull of opinion is what this newsletter is all about. For the record, though, I have to point out that on my trip to Grand Bahama I did not see the town dump and the plume of smoke emanating from it that Jeff Miller describes in his report. Ditto airplanes roaring overhead. Also, it’s only fair to point out that both of the major operators in Freeport – Grand Bahama Bonefishing and Pelican Bay Bonefishing – fish both the north shore of the island and to some extent the more sheltered south shore as conditions dictate. As for the appeal of Freeport, I must admit I was probably swayed in my opinion of the place by my non-fishing wife, who enjoyed herself there immensely. Left to my devices, I’m happy sleeping in the woods if the fish are biting.) Subscriber Jeff Miller, Jr. writes: I February 2007 recently read Don Causey’s glowing report on fishing for bones out of Freeport. I thought Don made some good points, but disagree with his suggestion that it’s really not worth making the roughly one-hour drive to Maclean’s Town on Grand Bahama’s east end. Let me offer a few thoughts and observations…. I disagree with Don’s contention that Freeport is a great resort community with everything a non-fishing spouse or family member could want. To my way of thinking, Freeport is OK, but something of a tourist trap. The hotels are pretty nice, but dining and shopping (think t-shirt and souvenir stalls for people piling off cruise boats) are limited. The golf courses are flat and fairly interesting at best. The casinos are small. If you prefer a fishing lodge experience to -17- staying in a resort hotel, North Riding Point and Deep Water Cay Club are both outstanding options. The Pinder brothers are terrific guides and great guys. I’ve fished with all of them, both at Deep Water Cay and, more recently, out of Freeport. They’re fun to be with, and the fishing they offer on the northwest side of Grand Bahama can be terrific with very large fish. But…. The area fished by the Pinders and others out of Freeport is wide open to the north wind, the worst one for bonefishing in the Bahamas. Interestingly, on days when they get blown out, the Pinders sometimes trailer their skiffs back to Maclean’s Town to find shelter from the wind and pick up a few bones. Finally, the flats fished out of Freeport are not a thing of beauty. Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT While out for the day, you’ll see numerous commercial airliners arriving at and departing from the Freeport airport. You’ll probably find yourself within view of the sizeable town dump, too. You’ll typically see plumes of smoke from the trash-burning that takes place there. Smell isn’t typically a problem, though. Especially if the wind is from the north. The east end, by contrast, is pristine, beautiful and enormous. When Gil Drake built the lodge at Deep Water Cay in 1958, it was one of the first in the Bahamas. Mr. Drake chose a place with a huge number of flats and cays, assuring low-pressure fishing and protection from the wind on all but the very worst days. He had first pick and he picked well. While there are sometimes other fishing operations on the east end, they tend to come and go and usually send out just two or three skiffs on the days they’re there. Deep Water Cay Club carefully rests and rotates flats and I’ve never felt like the fish were stressed by too much pressure. While it’s true that the club’s owners are privatizing and developing the island in significant ways, they claim that they will not put more skiffs in the water. So far, they’ve remained true to that claim. In conclusion, while I agree that one can have great days of bonefishing out of Freeport, there are lots of reasons to head for Maclean’s Town and some wonderful lodge-based angling. Subscriber Charles Day Dilks writes: I read with interest your recent article about fishing Grand Bahama. Although I agree with much of what you said, my experience during two trips in 2004 and 2005 was different in some ways than that reported. To be sure, I fished Grand Bahama with Pelican Bay Bonefish- ing, not Grand Bahama Bonefishing. Still, I must report that I was greatly disappointed in the number of fish I saw, as well as the enthusiasm and commitment of my guides. If the weather wasn’t perfect and the sun wasn’t shining, the guides would stop polling and hang out. They did not have any strategy for finding fish in less than perfect conditions. My disappointment in the fishing was alleviated somewhat by the fact that Freeport, as you reported, is a good place for an angler with a non-fishing partner. It is indeed an attractive place to visit due to its numerous restaurants, golf courses, fine hotels, etc. Due to the lack of good fishing on my last visit, I had the opportunity to fish with Captain Perry Demeritte on the East end of the Island. We couldn’t believe the difference. We found schools of bonefish that were hungry to take the fly. We waded flats for about half the time and found big bonefish tailing. Perry had a wonderful personality, worked hard even when the weather conditions weren’t perfect and didn’t blow up when a fisherman missed his target. He showed up every day in a freshly washed, starched fishing outfit, and his wife made delicious meals to order. To eliminate the daily drive from Freeport, we stayed at a small motel about 20 minutes away from the launch site. Although the motel was not as fancy as most lodges, it was certainly clean and serviceable. What’s more, it was on a beautiful, unspoiled beach with miles of uninhabited shoreline. On arrival and departure days, we were able to walk the beach and find bonefish on our own within easy casting distance. Meals were served at a locally-owned restaurant on the beach, which, again, was perfectly adequate and charming. Contrary to what was said in the article, we did not find overly crowded flats; in fact, most days we saw very few boats. This is partly because McLeans Town, where the boat is launched, is very small and was badly damaged by a hurricane. Moreover, it does not have any accommodations to speak of and, therefore, cannot support a large fishing fleet. This, of course, is with the exception of the Deep Water Cay Club located on a nearby island, but nevertheless, their numbers did not bother us or crowd the fishery. Our initial experience has been borne out over the last two years when I have fished three or four days each trip with Perry. Although I hate to give away information on my very best fishing guide, I think it is only appropriate to give Perry the opportunity to be recognized and fairly represented in The Angling Report. (Postscript: The various companies mentioned here can be reached as follows: Deep Water Cay Club, Tel. 843815-8300, Web: www.deepwatercay .com; Grand Bahama Bonefishing, Tel. 336-768-6666. Web: www.grand bahamabonefishing.com; North Riding Point Club, Tel. 242-3534250. Web: www.northridingpoint club.com; Pelican Bay Bonefishing, Tel. 954-364-7590 or 242-373-9550. Web: www.pelicanbaybonefishing .com; and Capt. Perry Demeritte, Tel. 242-353-3301. Web: www.captin perry.com.) Back of the Book (All items in this section are paid advertisements. Ads cost $1.50 per word. They are published as a reader service. For more details on our ad rates and policies, contact: Edi Bell, The Angling Report, 9300 S. Dadeland Blvd., Suite 605, Miami, FL 33156-2721. Tel. 305-670-1361. Fax 305-670-1376.) February 2007 -18- Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT From Alaska to the Caribbean, the West Coast to Labrador, North America offers exceptional angling possibilities. For those who dream of fishing in scenic, pristine surroundings, whether it be for wild trout, steelhead or salmon; for big game fish; or permit and bonefish, the choices are virtually limitless. Since 1992 we have been organizing fishing trips, particularly in the Rocky Mountains, from the Kootenai/Glacier National Park area through Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado and to the San Juan River in New Mexico. We specialize in customized trips including productive, little-known waters, which can be fished in solitude, as well as the famous rivers, where cutthroat, rainbow and brown trout are the primary species. Contact us for your next fishing adventure. Tel. 302-436-0153 E-mail: info@AWATRAVEL.net http://www.awatravel.net/ Catch Salmon BC Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island, BC. Open ocean, surf-line rock piles, eight inlets, 12 rivers. Salt and freshwater fly fishing, coho, Chinook, chum salmon, steelhead, sea run cutthroat trout, and black bass. Tell.877-610-1011. www.Catchsalmonbc.com. 10% discount to Angling Report subscribers. Mongolia River Outfitters Amazing taimen and trout fishery. Fly fishing only. Professional guides. Beautiful accommodations. Float new water daily - no shuttles. Now booking September 2007. Tel: 866-586-3009 E-mail: Info@MongoliaRivers.com www.MongoliaRivers.com Advertise With Us! E-mail: Advertising@AnglingReport.com Giant Labrador Brook Trout Awesome Lake Lodge www.awesomelake.com Toll Free 877-677-3363 PO Box 358 Stn C Goose Bay NFLD Canada A0P 1C0 February 2007 Chilean Patagonia Thank you for a successful season. Now booking for 2007-2008. • Floating lodge – the PUMA in Lago Yelcho. Capacity six fishermen. Fish the bays and rivers, including the Futaleufu, of the 28-mile-long Yelcho Lake. Mostly dry fly fishing for true trophy rainbow, brown and brook trout of three to 15 pounds. The closest thing to flats fishing there is in fresh water. PUMA has been in operation for 17 years. • Our second lodge is nine years old and located halfway between the lake and the ocean (25 kilometers from the lake) on the Yelcho River. No roads; you travel by boat. Pristine river fishing for browns and rainbows, with occasional cohos, Chinooks, Atlantics and sea-runs. Also available are other lakes in the immediate area, including the lake that every client from the 19982005 seasons, including legendary guide Bill Curtis, said “was the best dry fly fishing he ever had.” The lodge accommodates eight fishermen. Puma Fishing LTD. Contact: Dr. Stephen Selway, D.V.M. Tel./Fax (Apr. 30 to Nov. 30) 516-775-0827. Tel./Fax (Dec. 1 to Apr. 27) 954-922-5389. E-mail: fishhorsesjs@aol.com Backcountry New Zealand Fly fishing adventures in New Zealand’s South Island. Backcountry New Zealand is one of the leading fly fishing guiding operations with guides who will do their best to deliver a fishing experience of a lifetime. We have a wide range of options from lodgebased fishing to multi-day camp-out trips. E-mail: trout@backcountry.co.nz Visit us on the web www.backcountry.co.nz Anglers the world over flock to New Zealand to fish for rainbow and brown trout. Nowhere is the fishing better than at our Poronui Ranch and Station on North Island near Taupo. Up in Canada, Atlantic salmon provide a different, yet exhilarating, fly-fishing experience. Ask us about Miramichi Black Rapids Salmon Lodge in New Brunswick. It’s known for its fast-flowing rapids full of migrating Atlantic salmon. For more information contact: Kevin McKinstry Tel. 800-281-7991 kmckinstry@westervelt.com www.westerveltlodges.com -19- One Trip And You’re Hooked! The Perfect Cast invites you to discover a new way to build business relationships through the use of a new business tool - fly fishing. The Perfect Cast takes the individual challenge of fly fishing into a group setting of business executives where everyone discovers and experiences new things together. Exclusive destinations, exquisite accommodations, gourmet dining and deluxe travel provide the ultimate relationship building experience. Call to arrange the experience of a lifetime. Tel. 646-522-3426 Web: www.theperfectcast.com New Orleans Fly Fishing Headquarters Call now for bookings. • Shallow water sight-fishing for big reds. • World’s most extensive saltwater fly collection. • Orvis, Sage, Scott, Tibor and more. Uptown Angler Tel. 504-529-3597; or 800-974-8473 www.uptownangler.com Fish Cape York Australia Carpentaria Seafaris Seven nights, six days fishing Cape York from Carpentaria Seafari’s live-aboard mothership Tropic Paradise. Fish from flats skiffs on rivers, estuaries, flats and shallow reefs. Chase busting schools of fish offshore. Kick off your shoes and fish miles of deserted beaches. 54 species have been caught on a single trip on fly and light tackle. Most of them are fish you have never seen and all of them peel line off your reel like a freight train. Barramundi, mangrove jacks, queenfish, seven species of trevally, permit, tuna, huge Spanish mackerel, cobia, giant ladyfish and many more. 2007 price is $4,468 for a full week of fishing. Bring an appetite for fabulous fishing and gourmet food. Join us for the best week of fishing on the planet! Call for a free video Tel. 888-409-2008 E-mail: aus@fishabout.com www.fishabout.com Volume 20, Number 2 THE ANGLING REPORT Early Season Fishing can be great on our Pennsylvania Limestone Streams. Plenty of big fish, great spring creeks, blue ribbon freestone streams and no crowds! And if you’ve got cabin fever, the early season fishing can be excellent! We fish some of the best streams in Pennsylvania, within an easy drive of the midAtlantic, Pittsburgh and Cleveland. Because we rest our water as much or more than we fish it, the fishing is consistently good. Fly fishing only, strictly catch and release. We offer both guided and unguided private access fishing – ask about our StreamSide camps for groups. Don’t forget about steelhead, the spring runs are coming! Visit www.loganoutfitters.com. Or contact Bob Hesse E-mail: bhesse@loganoutfitters.com Tel. 877-768-7688 The Best of New Zealand Fly Fishing For over 15 years, we have specialized exclusively in New Zealand fishing and travel. Fly fishing is our central focus, but we are experts in many other activities and accommodations available in New Zealand. We create exclusive fishing programs, as well as sightseeing and other nature-based activities. Call for brochure or visit New Zealand’s most exciting fishing site. www. BestofNZflyfishing.com Mike McClelland 10544 W. Pico Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90064 Toll-free 800-528-6129 E-mail: info@BestofNZ.net Off Season Fly Fishing in Paradise Challhuaquen Lodge is a new marvelous place located in the heart of Patagonia on the banks of the Futaleufú River that offers the most gorgeous natural scenery, an awesome fishing experience and five star hotel services. To find out more about our crystalline waters surrounded by glacial lakes, millenarian trees, plenty of rainbow and brown trout, quite a few huge Pacific salmon surprises, and the elegance and comfort offered by a lodge designed by and for demanding anglers, please visit our web site at: www. challhuaquen.com and call us in the US at: 212-671-0611. February 2007 Trophy Redfish Fly fish 25 miles from New Orleans in skinny water year round. Specializing in catch-and-release sight casting. Accommodations for up to eight guests, includes meals. Four flats boats. Capt. Gregg Arnold – 504-237-6742 CUBAN FLY FISHERS Cuba - Las Salinas Fantastic bonefishing, permit, tarpon. One guide per fisherman. Excellent rates. Tel. 011-44-207-731-6871 (England) E-mail: mike@cubawelcome.com Web: www.cubawelcome.com For those who dream of fishing in scenic, pristine surroundings, whether it be for marbled trout, Mediterranean brown or grayling, from the Italian/Austrian Alps and the Slovenia countryside, south through Tuscany and Umbria, we organize exceptional angling experiences - selecting the best waters and the right time to fish them. Since its inception, W.E.T. has specialized in truly personalized fly fishing itineraries, including productive waters that can be fished in relative solitude, as well as famous rivers, for fishermen only or couples and families traveling together. You will cast to that rise you saw, slightly upstream, either on slow-moving water, perhaps under a low-reaching branch’s shade, or just past a small boulder’s wake in a faster-moving stream, the very same way you’ve been casting on streams you know, from California’s Hat Creek or Pennsylvania’s spring creeks, to “the slide” section of the Madison and many other fast-moving freestones of the Rockies. Fly fishing in Italy, Austria or Slovenia, is in many ways a very different experience than what one might be accustomed to. To begin with, whether lodging in a medieval village or in a small countryside hotel, chances are that one travels through history just to get to the stream, to say nothing about the epicurean delights you’re treated to, including some gourmet streamside lunches with your English-speaking guide. And since there is plenty for the non-fishing companions to do (from escorted touring to art and history programs, culinary classes and/or fashion shopping), these fly fishing trips are of the type that you don’t have to beg your girlfriend, spouse or family to join. Au contraire, they will beg to be taken along. Tel. 302-436-0153 E-mail: info@westerneuropeantravel.com http://www.westerneuropeantravel.com/ -20- Flies for the Serious Angler. Specializing in tarpon, bonefish and permit flies. Fantastic custom tying program for all your other needs. Visit: www.ssflies.com; or call 207-512-2900. World’s Greatest Redfishing Fly fishing and light tackle. Corporate groups welcome. Call Gulf Coast Outfitters in SE Louisiana. Tel. 877-redfish (733-3474) 2,800 square miles of flats and only 10 flats skiffs. Which 280 square miles of flats are you going to wade today? Bonefish, permit and tarpon. See June 2004 Angling Report. Cell: 011-39-33581-49111 E-mail: Avalon@avalons.net Web. www.avalons.net Patagonia Lakes District Loop Ten nights/seven days fishing in Chile/Argentina. $3,850 per person. Patagonia Angling Adventures Tel. 207-749-3383 trafford@maine.rr.com Fly Fishing For Taimen. Comfortable yurt camps and guided wilderness floattrips on Mongolia’s Delger River. Tel: 866-427-9668 E-mail: andy@fishmongolia.com www.fishmongolia.com Volume 20, Number 2