Prestige PARIS

Prestige
PARIS
Citi presents LUXE City Guides
The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler
www.luxecityguides.com
How does the song go? “I love Paris in the springtime…’ Well, who doesn’t, and
for that matter summer, autumn and winter are pretty darn good too.
The City of Light shines like a romantic beacon year round with the finest of cuisine, fashion, lifestyle
and culture, and yet, this ancient, fascinating and beautiful city is extremely walkable and easily
navigable with its 20 districts or arrondissements spiraling out like an escargot from the central 1st.
The legendary Seine River bisects the city with the urbane ‘right bank’ or rive droite being north, and
the chic, artistic ‘left bank’ or rive gauche being south. Bienvenue à Paris!
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Drab vs. Fab
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BLAH BLAH
Excepting Fashion Week, there
is no bad time to visit Paris,
but bear in mind that during
peak spring season the city is
swamped and in August the
entire population goes on holiday,
or so it seems
CDG to town: around 45 mins /
Un peu de politesse, mes
chers, always bid hello and
goodbye when entering shops,
bars and restaurants
Shops, services and restaurants
generally close on Sunday,
so use this day for museums
and activities
€45 by cab; 30 mins / €8,70 by
RER train; or 45-60 mins / €9,40
by Roissybus
Service is always included, but
leave a small tip by rounding up
to the nearest euro or two
Even locals carry the fab little
red Plan de Paris métro n’ maps
all-in-one. Pick it up at any
news kiosk
Cabs are fine for short hops
but the métro is excellent for
longer journeys, buy a one-week
‘carte orange’ pass, or a ‘carnet’
of ten tickets
Coffee: café is espresso, allongé
is long espresso and café crème
(not café au lait) is coffee
with milk
The int’l dialing code for Paris
is +33 1, all local calls begin
with 01 and mobiles with 06.
To call emergency from a cell
phone dial 112
The handy Vélib bike scheme has
stations every 300m – €1/day,
€5/week via credit card + PIN /
www.velib.paris.fr
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LUXE PARIS
Intro
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LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
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Prestige
LUXE INSIDER
LORENZ BÄUMER
Legendary haute jewellery designer Lorenz is famed for his
spectacular one-off pieces utilizing rare and precious stones,
which are often inspired by the natural world. In addition to
his custom work and signature collections, for over 20 years
from his beautiful salon and atelier in the Place Vendome, he
also created exclusive collections for Chanel, and since 2009
is Artistic Director for Fine Jewellery for Louis Vuitton.
www.lorenzbaumer.com
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LUXE INSIDER
LORENZ BÄUMER
1) What’s the one thing every visitor to Paris must do and why?
Definitely Place Vendome. It is a wonderful place to go, a reference in luxury and especially
jewelry. This is my playground with the view that I have from my salons. Something I never get
tired of. I also happen to own 150 historic photographs dating back to 1853 of all the special
moments recorded on film from the magic square. Come and visit the collection
on your next journey!
2) What do you most love about Paris and why?
Paris is the city of inspiration, museums, amazing craftsmanship… a city that pushes you
beyond normal boundaries. I am very fond of the Museum des Arts Décoratifs where 4 of my
creations are on permanent display. There is always something special happening there, that I
can use for my next piece of jewelry. Reading is another of my passions and I love to discover
new books at Galignani library, rue de Rivoli where Bertrand Pizzin gives the best advice.
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
•
www.galignani.com
3) Where do you go for a pamper session, massage or spa treatment?
For me there is only Catherine Leroy, who just opened her spa, 6,rue de la Trémoille in the 8th
arrondissment. She does acupuncture and massage, so I love to visit her at the end of a busy
week. I feel totally rejuvenated: a million years younger!
4) What are 3 of your favorite restaurants in Paris and why?
What dishes do you order at these places?
Alain Ducasse in all his special locations: from the Plaza to Rech to Les Lyonnais. Kinugawa
for Japanese food. Jean-Paul Hévin for his “tartelette au chocolat”
and Paparazzi for the best pizzas in town.
Paparazzi / 6 Square l’Opéra Louis Jouvet / +33 1 40 07 92 56
www.alain-ducasse.com • www.kinugawa.fr
www.jphevin.com
5) What are your three favorite shops in Paris and what do you love about them?
My three favourite shops in Paris are Urban Solutions for the best bikes in the city, (my
favorite means of transportation for Paris), Plume et Bille where I find the special Namiki
pens from Japan that I love for writing notes, and La Maison du Miel for the most incredible
selections of honeys. Since then we don’t have sugar at home any more.
www.urbansolutions.fr
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LUXE Insider
www.maisondumiel.com
LUXE Loves
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Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
Prestige
LUXE LOVES
Shopping
MURIEL GRATEAU
Divine and dramatic, but simple
porcelain tableware, plus a rainbow
of fine linens and staggeringly chic
jewelry. Muriel’s eye is always flawless
and her monochrome store a magnet
for the city’s most stylish denizens
37 rue de Beaune, 7th / M: Rue du Bac /
+33 1 40 20 42 82
murielgrateau.com
Dining
LE RELAIS DE L’ENTRECÔTE
It’s not glamorous, and yes, you will
almost certainly have to queue, but
the two helpings of thinly sliced steak,
sublime ‘secret recipe’ green sauce,
fabulous shoestring fries, plus amiable
waitresses are just too priceless. Steak
and frites for a king!
15 rue Marbeuf, 8th / M: Franklin D.
Roosevelt / +33 1 49 52 07 17 /
go early or queue
relaisentrecote.fr
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LUXE LOVES
Hotel
Hotel
LE ROYAL MONCEAU
HÔTEL FOUQUET’S BARRIÈRE
This Raffles-run glory-bower has been
touched with the Starck stick, and
strikes firmly on the luxe gong with
a très contempo ring. Choose from Il
Carpaccio, Le Cuisine and Le Bar Long
and you’ll be well fed, watered and left
feeling awfully exclusive.
A gold-dusted, regal residence with
an address to match. You are quite
literally smack bang in the middle of
the city on Avenue George V, with
the Champs-Elysées and the Arc de
Triomphe within moments of your door.
With plush, very spacious rooms, butler
service, garden, indoor pool, fitness
37 avenue Hoche, 8th / M: Ternes /
+33 1 42 99 88 00
hall, U-Spa and legendary brasserie
Fouquet’s included in the picture, its all
looking terribly rosy, or golden!
www.leroyalmonceau.com
46 avenue George V, 8th /
M: George V / +33 1 40 69 60 00
www.fouquets-barriere.com
Activity
Dining
SAINTE-CHAPELLE
RALPHS
Is there a more celestial (and
romantic) chapel on the planet?
The utterly adorable C.13th upper
chapel with its ravishing stained
glass is breathtakingly exquisite. Try
to go on a sunny day for maximum
intake of breath.
Fight for a summer terrace perch or
clubby salon table at Mr. Lauren’s
dandy paean to American classic
comfort cooking. It’s terribly BCBG,
but it’s terribly lovely whether at
lunch or supper.
4 boulevard du Palais, 1st / M: Cité / +33
1 53 40 60 80 / Mar-Oct 9.30am-6pm,
Nov-Feb 9am-5pm / closed daily 1-2pm
173 boulevard St Germain, 6th / M: StGermain-des-Prés / +33 1 44 77 76 00
ralphlaurenstgermain.com
www.sainte-chapelle.monumentsnationaux.fr
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Dining
Bar
SUR MESURE
LE BAR DU PLAZA ATHÉNÉE
Step into this white on white spaceship
for a galactic molecular ride through
all the latest techniques in 2 Michstarred chef Thierry Marx’s prolific
repertoire. Yes, there is faffy foam,
but Marx’s devotion to healthy living is
reflected in clean, sparkling flavors and
imaginative pairings like bean sprout
The famous, ambient glow bar, luscious
leather armchairs, wood paneled walls
and eye-watering prices are like manna
to the city’s beautiful crowd who come
to be scene and barely heard. Go late.
and truffle risotto.
Hotel du Plaza Athénée / 25 avenue
Montaigne, 8th / M: Alma Marceau /
+33 1 53 67 66 00 / daily 6-11pm /
electro-rock Thu-Sat 11pm-2am
www.bar-plaza-athenee-paris.com
251 rue St-Honoré, 1st / M: Tuileries / +33
1 70 98 73 00 / closed Sun-Mon
www.mandarinoriental.com
Activity
Shopping
NISSIM DE CAMONDO
MERCI
A wander around this truly beautiful
house, complete with its original
collection of C.18th art, furniture
and antiques, offers a unique
glimpse into the past. A fascinating
little time capsule.
Shop with a clear conscience at this
delightful concept store featuring a
vintage book café, home furniture and
fragrance, plus new/vintage togs for
kids and grownups with profits
going to charity.
63 rue de Monceau, 8th / M: Monceau /
+33 1 53 89 06 50 / 10am-5pm /
closed Mon-Tue
111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd / M:
Saint-Sébastien-Froissart / Mon-Sat
10am-8pm / +33 1 42 77 78 92
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
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www.merci-merci.com
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LUXE LOVES
Dining
Dining
LE CHATEAUBRIAND
YAM’TCHA
Gastro-vivants sell their kids for
seats in Iñaki Aizpitarte’s vibrant,
exciting, experimental bistro. If you like
adventure and the unknown on your
plate, then book well ahead.
Barely 20 seats, slightly erratic service
and very tricky to book, but exAstrance chef Adeline Grattard delivers
a gorgeously original Franco-Oriental
prix fixe of taste and texture.
129 avenue Parmentier, 11th /
M: Goncourt / +33 1 43 57 45 95 /
closed Sun-Mon
4 rue Sauval, 1st / M: Les Halles / +33 1
40 26 08 07 / closed Mon-Tue
Lunch
Bar
LE MEURICE
EXPERIMENTAL
COCKTAIL CLUB
Alléno and Starck have turned this
crystal, marble, gilt and mirror salon
into one of the city’s most foughtfor tables, but you will need to be
sitting down when the bill comes. That
said, the prix fixe lunch is the best
value in town.
Tiny, sexy, young and funky, with plush,
chandeliered vibe and tempting drinks
list, the ECC is a laboratory of fine and
rare spirits served with a little tonguein-chic, and a heck of a lot of flair.
228 rue de Rivoli, 1st / M: Tuileries /
+33 1 44 58 10 55 / closed Sat-Sun
experimentalcocktailclub.com
37 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2nd / M: Sentier
/ +33 1 48 78 31 80 / 5pm-5am /
www.lemeurice.com
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LUXE LOATHES
TAXIS
You’ve got more chance of
hailing a pelican in Paris. If you
are lucky enough to get one,
your next realization will be that
friendly cab drivers are as rare as
friendly waiters
SERVICE
Any chance of getting my
order before I expire? Probably
not, and especially not if
you’re not French
SUNDAY
Shops, services and a good many
restaurants are closed on Sunday
– quell insanity is this?
PRICES
€35 for a martini in hotel
bars? C’est du vol organisé! Be
prepared to haemorrhage cash
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Intro
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LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
Prestige
DRAB VS. FAB
MUSEUM PASS
CUISINE
EIFFEL TOWER
You will of course wish to visit the
Louvre and Musée d’Orsay but spring,
summer and autumn the queues can
be atrocious, and tempers simmer
easily. Book ahead to get the 2, 4 or
6-day Museum Pass delivered to your
hotel and you’ll swan straight to the
front of the queue (much to everyone’s
annoyance). It also gains you entry to
scores of other wonderful museums
too. Le fab!
In a city of such fine food it’s tempting
to simply wander from restaurant to
bistro without ever really knowing
the components of the dishes and the
origin of the ingredients. Step forward
Wendy Lyn, whose fabulous food tours
illuminate and charm in equal measure,
and yes, you get to eat just about
everything you see along the way!
You could stand around with the rest
of the milling tourists watching Mr.
Eiffel’s splendid tour de force as it
goes through its nightly spellbinding
light show. For those in the know, the
very best way to witness the spectacle
is with a cocktail in your hand and a
grandstand view on the terrace of the
Café de l’Homme. Salut!
thepariskitchen.com
www.restaurant-cafedelhomme.com
www.museums-of-paris.com
VAUX LE VICOMTE
LUNCH
The Museum Pass will help you to
avoid the queues at the Château de
Versailles, but it really can’t protect
you from the abject swarms in spring
and summer. If two’s company, but
thirty thousand is a crowd, why not
consider the quieter and glorious Vaux
le Vicomte, the original inspiration for
Versailles. In summer you can even
dine within the candlelit grounds.
Palatial peace!
Paris hosts some of the world’s most
rarefied dining experiences, but apart
from the eye-watering cost, the sheer
difficulty in reserving a table for dinner
can be infuriating. So, reeducate
yourself to accept lunch as the main
meal of the day and you’ll take full
advantage of the city’s fantastic
prix fixe deals, from magnificent
Le Meurice to tiny Le Comptoir du
Relais. Bon appetit!
www.Vaux-le-vicomte.com
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ROMANCE
What better way to start your day than
in lovely St-Germain-des-Prés with a
steaming cup of the signature, thick
hot chocolate from Les Deux Magots,
followed by a gentle amble along Rue
Jacob’s pretty antique and décor shops
(pop into Ladurée for thigh defying
macarons), and be sure to stop off at
one of Paris’ best cultural secrets, the
charming little Musée Eugène Delacroix,
for a window into the C.19th romantic
artist’s atelier, home, work and private
garden. For a relaxed, but terribly good
lunch without a reservation be sure
to arrive very early at Le Comptoir
du Relais, or if you’re in the mood for
the chicest cheeseburger in town try
your luck at Ralph Lauren. Well, you’ve
earned a pamper, so off with you to
the Six Senses Spa, and relax in one
of their delightful couple’s cocoons.
Rejuvenated? You simply can’t come to
Paris and not shop for beautiful lingerie,
and just a short cab ride away awaits the
incomparable Fifi Chachnil, for undies
with a built in knee-tremble! With your
purchases safely wrapped, make haste to
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the heavenly Sainte Chapelle, and then
onto the perfect afternoon tea at The
Four Seasons Hotel Georges V. Just
time for a quick wash and brush up at
your hotel before dusk when you should
take your table for cocktails at Café de
L’Homme (see Fab vs Drab) to watch the
spectacular Eiffel Tower light show (every
hour on the hour). 20,000 sparkling
light bulbs is quite something. With your
magical dinner booked (well in advance)
at Le Meurice, and a moonlit walk
through the close by Tuileries Gardens
to look forward to (or if you prefer, supper
at ravishing Le Grand Vefours followed
by a stroll in the Palais Royale), the
irresistible effect of Paris will become
very apparent.
LUXE Loves
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STYLE
Photograph: Antoine Mercier
Start your stylish day with some of the
finest croissants and baked goods in
the city from famed baker Eric Kayser
– rather handily he has a shop Carré
Rive Gauche at 18 rue du Bac in the 7th
arrondissment, just perfect for your post
pastry stroll around the best interior
décor and antique shops in this treasure
chest of a neighborhood. Whatever
you do, don’t miss out on divine Muriel
Grateau (see LUXE Loves), and a visit to
the splendid taxidermist extraordinaire
Deyrolle, quite simply one of our favorite
shops, anywhere. A quick coffee at Hotel
Montalembert if you must, and then taxi
to the joyous Musée des Arts Décoratifs
for its design collections dating from the
Middle Ages to now. Lunch! Huitrerie
Regis offers bivalve bliss, and you can eat
in or takeaway. What luck, you’re terribly
close to the beautiful Palais Royale,
and that means vintage shopping and
perfume at the lovely shops of Didier
Ludot and Serge Lutens. An afternoon
visit to the Musée Jacquemart-André
is at once stylish and cultural, but just
as importantly you’ll find a rather good
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afternoon tea under the Tiepolo ceiling
of its grand café. For that all important
pre-prandial, it’s difficult to beat the
excellent libations at ECC, before taking
your seat at the ultra fashionable white
on white clad Sur Mesure for Thierry
Marx’s molecular marvels. If something
a little lessPhotograph:
formal is called
for, head to
Matt Burns
Chez l’Ami Jean for Basque at its best
in a boisterous boîte of chandeliers, zinc
and graffiti – don’t miss the infamous
rice pudding with salted caramel cream
and nougatine. Nightcaps? Mais oui. Two
words. Andy Wahloo. Fin!
LUXE Loves
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Drab vs. Fab
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Prestige
LUXE ITINERARY
GOURMET
Wendy Lyn is the go-to gal for all things
culinary in Paris including food tours,
cooking classes, market visits and wine
tastings, but it’s also worth seeking
out the advice of Aurélie and Marion
at Succulent Paris who arrange all
manner of culinary delights including
food tastings in private apartments.
Prefer to go it alone? No problem. During
the week, one of the very best places to
start is always the delectable La Grand
Épicerie and its extraordinary seasonal,
regional and international produce. From
the ultra-luxe food hall specializing in
everything, it’s an easy step to the tiny
independent stores specializing in only
one thing. On you go to nearby 8 rue du
Cherche-Midi in the 6th for the legendary
bread of Poilâne, and then follow your
nose to 51 rue de Grenelle in the 7th,
where it’s possible to detect the presence
of cheese wonderland Barthélémy
even as you turn into the street. You’ve
now got the makings of a picnic, and
where better to enjoy it than the sylvan
surrounds of the nearby garden at the
Musée Rodin. Chocolate is a subject dear
to most people’s heart and in Paris you’re
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spoilt for choice, but for an altogether
different experience grab a cab to the
9th to find the extraordinary A l’Etoile
d’Or at 30 rue Fontaine, where pigtailed
Queen of Candy Denise Acabo reigns
benevolently over her realm of handcurated confectionary and French artisan
chocolate. We adore this store! Or, if you
prefer to sit down for your chocolate
fix, try the wicked upstairs tearoom at
artisanal chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin,
his alchemical cocoa will send you loco.
Yes, you’ve died and gone to Hévin! To
finish your day, care for something a
little under the radar for supper? Try the
excellent tasting menu at Verjus. Relaxed
and welcoming, this little restaurant is a
bit like attending a great supper party, or
if you prefer it even less formal, they have
a great wine bar with bites menu too.
Lovely!
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
Prestige
THE ESSENTIALS
ROMANCE
Les Deux Magots
6 place Saint-Germain-des-Prés / M: St.
Germain des Prés / +33 1 45 48 55 25 /
Sainte Chapelle
62 rue Saint-Antoine / M: St. Paul /
+33 1 44 61 20 00
www.lesdeuxmagots.com
sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr
Ladurée
21 rue Bonaparte / M: St. Germain des
Prés / +33 1 44 07 64 87 /
The Four Seasons Hotel Georges V
31 avenue George V / M: George V /
+33 1 49 52 70 10
www.laduree.fr
www.fourseasons.com/paris
Musée Eugène Delacroix
6 rue de Furstenberg / M: St. Germain
des Prés / +33 1 44 41 86 50 /
Café de L’Homme
(see Fab vs Drab)
www.musee-delacroix.fr
Le Meurice
228 rue de Rivoli / M: Tuileries /
+33 1 44 58 10 10 /
Le Comptoir du Relais
9 Carrefour de L’Odéon, 6th / M: Odéon /
+33 1 44 27 07 97
Ralph Lauren
173 Boulevard Saint-Germain /
M: Odéon / +33 1 44 77 76 00 /
www.lemeurice.com
Le Grand Vefours
17 rue de Beaujolais / M: Palais Royal /
+33 1 42 96 56 27
www.grand-vefour.com
ralphlaurenstgermain.com/en
Six Senses Spa
3 rue de Castiglione / M: Tuileries /
+33 1 43 16 10 10 /
Palais Royale
4 rue de Valois / M: Palais Royal /
+33 1 42 96 15 35
www.hotel-paris-palaisroyal.com
www.thewestinparis.com
Fifi Chachnil
231 Rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries /
+33 1 42 61 21 83 /
www.fifichachnil.com
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THE ESSENTIALS
STYLE
Eric Kayser
18 rue du Bac / M: Rue du Bac /
+33 1 42 61 27 63 /
Serge Lutens
95 rue de Rivoli / M: Palais Royal /
+33 1 42 86 57 76 /
www.erickayser.com
www.sergelutens.com
Muriel Grateau
(see LUXE Loves)
Musée Jacquemart-André
158 Boulevard Haussmann / M: St.
Philippe du Roule / +33 1 45 62 11 59 /
Deyrolle
46 rue du Bac / M: Rue du Bac / +33 1
42 22 30 07 /
www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
www.deyrolle.com
Hotel Montalembert
3 rue Montalembert / M: Rue du Bac /
+33 1 45 49 68 68 /
www.hotel-montalembert.fr
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
107 rue de Rivoli / M: Tuileries / +33 1
44 55 57 50
www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
ECC
37 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Châtelet /
+33 1 45 08 88 09 /
www.experimentalcocktailclub.com
Sur Mesure
251 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries /
+33 1 70 98 73 00 /
www.mandarinoriental.com/paris
Chez l’Ami Jean / 27 rue Malar / M: La
Tour-Maubourg / +33 1 47 05 86 89 /
www.amijean.eu
Huitrerie Regis
3 rue Montfaucon / M: Mabillon / +33 1
44 41 10 07
Andy Wahloo
69 rue des Gravilliers / M: Arts et
huitrerieregis.com
Métiers / +33 1 42 71 20 38 /
www.andywahloo-bar.com
Didier Ludot / 24 Galerie Montpensier
/ M: Palais Royal / +33 1 42 96 06 56 /
www.didierludot.fr
GOURMET
Wendy Lyn
wendy@thepariskitchen.com /
thepariskitchen.com
Succulent Paris
33 rue de Tocqueville / M: Malesherbes
/ contact@succulent-paris.com /
www.succulent-paris.com
La Grand Épicerie
38 rue de Sévres / M: Sevres-Babylone /
+33 1 44 39 81 00 /
www.lagrandeepicerie.fr
Poilâne
49 rue de Grenelle / M: Rue du Bac /
www.poilane.com
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Barthélémy / 51 rue de Grenelle /
M: Rue du Bac / +33 1 42 22 82 24
Musée Rodin / 79 rue de Varenne /
M: Varenne / +33 1 44 18 61 10 /
www.musee-rodin.fr
A l’Etoile d’Or / 30 rue Pierre Fontaine /
M: Blanche / +33 1 48 74 59 55
Jean-Paul Hévin
231 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries /
+33 1 55 35 35 96
www.jphevin.com
Verjus / 52 rue de Richelieu /
M: Bourse / +33 1 42 97 54 40
www.verjusparis.com
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries
Prestige
YOUR LUXE NOTES
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LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries