Read the July 2016 issue of Unwind here

Transcription

Read the July 2016 issue of Unwind here
ON THE WATER
ESSENTIALS
+
BEACH
SUMMER SPOTS
SAILING
THE KEYS
SAILING
THE KEYS
EVERGLADES
Kayaking Expedition
page 11
REWIND: THE FLORIDA REEF
JULY 2016
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this issue
8
Essentials: On the Water
11
Local Flavor: Kayaking the Everglades
16
Southernmost Appeal: Sailing the Keys
22
Rewind: The Florida Reef
26
Island Charm: Top Beaches in the Keys
30
Essentials: Boatbound
Publisher’s note:
The waters that surround the Florida Keys are the very
lifeblood of our community. Water is what feeds our tourism
industry, the primary driver of our economy. Water fuels many
of the activities we enjoy here, whether it’s fishing, diving or
boating. Water surrounds us and gives great meaning to our
local universe.
In this “On the Water” issue of unwind, our 4th annual
installment, we once again examine aspects of the Keys and
the ways our waters can be enjoyed and experienced.
We will delve into the world of Keys sailing and the
adventures that await while exploring our waters in that
exhilarating fashion. We’ll take a deeper dive on the history of
the Florida Keys Coral reef system and why it’s so important
to our region. You’ll experience first-hand a very personal
kayaking trek through the Everglades, one fraught with both
extreme beauty and unexpected challenges. And finally, we’ll
take you on a tour of the 10 best beaches in the Florida Keys.
It’s a wild ride, but we’re sure you’re up for it, so kick back,
enjoy this edition, and remember to always find time
to unwind!
THE FLORIDA KEYS
A Special publication produced by the
Keynoter Publishing Company
Publisher: Richard Tamborrino
Creative Director: Emily Pulis
Advertising Coordinator: Joanne Pulis
Contributing Writers: Bob Williams,
Craig Zabransky, Don Rhodes
unwindFloridaKeys.com | 305-743-5551
P.O. Box 500158, Marathon, FL 33050
COVER PHOTO BY John Woodell
ESSENTIALS
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Following is a chronicle of a 300-mile endurance expedition called the Everglades
Challenge undertaken in 2015 by Bob Williams of Marathon and his companion
Nora Jones. The race departs from Tampa Bay and concludes in the Florida Keys.
WRITTEN BY Bob Williams
SHORE LEAVE
Bob and Nora,
45 miles into the
Wilderness Trail
section of the
Everglades National
Park, on one of
several shore stops.
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carefully weighed and cataloged each
The Everglades Challenge is a
new dry bag to be stowed. Once the
grueling multi-vessel competition that
gear and provisions were stowed, the
my companion Nora and I entered in
consolidated weight was 440 pounds.
2015. We entered the competition with
It was a Saturday morning start with
my home-made 22-foot wooden tandem
conditions that were relatively benign
kayak in the Class 1 division. Initially
for anyone preparing for a Tampa
I was skeptical about entering such a
Bay crossing. Unfortunately the bay's
high-endurance race with an untested
400-square-mile micro-climate has a
vessel, but ultimately conceded.
reputation for rapid
There were
weather transitions,
modifications to
Made the trek in a
which had escaped
the kayak that
homemade wooden
our collective
needed completion
tandem kayak.
awareness as all race
before setting off.
participants focused
Completing the
on preparation for the start of the race.
rudder and foot-steering system
Unstable weather conditions
upgrade proved to be a tremendous
persevered throughout and the race was
improvement in handling, especially
designed to favor those with a strong
downwind. The rudder also greatly
sense of current, navigation and, most
complemented another installation
importantly, the limits of the vessel and
of a one-square-meter reaching sail,
the body driving it.
allowed by race rules, which could be
We experienced our first roll-over in
deployed or stowed in seconds. We had
July 2016 | unwind
11
LOCAL FLAVOR
HIGH SPIRITS
Despite the
unknowns they
would face
throughout, Bob and
Nora never lost sight
of the experience.
BASE CAMP
Making sure the
travelers set up
camp before dark
was a priority.
BRAVING
THE ELEMENTS
The cold wind and
water challenged
the kayakers as
much as the trip
distance itself.
RIGGED TO SAIL
The newly installed
sailing rig held up
surprisingly well
considering the
rigors of the trip.
12
unwind | July 2016
chart, unable to clearly distinguish the
continuous wall of dark vegetation at
each turn in the river. We were engulfed
in a torrential downpour with wind
gusts threatening to drive us into the
low tide mangrove roots hanging above
the surface. Their dangling roots were
clustered with sharp oysters, daring us
to grab them for stability. There was also
the fear that hungry crocodiles were
lurking right beside us. Only later did I
admit to seeing paired green reflections
when sweeping my headlamp along the
mangrove fringe. I chose to write them
off as exceptionally large bull frogs.
The surreal nature of so much raw
wilderness left us with a constant mix
of trepidation and awe. Our intense
awareness of the night sounds and
smells, along with the rhythmic
roll induced through our nowflawless synchronized paddling was
mesmerizing. With our headlamps off
and our night vision restored, aided
with the rising moon glistening on the
dripping mangrove leaves, we were
totally transported to another reality. As
the moon got higher it began reflecting
the ripple patterns in the water while
the bioluminescence streamed off of
our upward paddles with each stroke,
leaving a glowing trail in the dark from
where we came.
We paddled the next five days
through the interior Everglades, far
away from civilization, immersed
in the solitude and the tapestry of
tropical wetlands. The brisk southeast
wind was demanding every ounce
of our endurance; our downwind
sail rig remaining untested. We were
constantly amazed by the number
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF Bob Williams
TEST OF
ENDURANCE
The open water
distance and the
evolving sea and
wind conditions
demanded their
complete attention.
shared with the kayak, now anointed
the first 10 miles. It resulted from losing
with the name Splinter, we were no
rudder control when a poorly wedged
worse for the wear from the early part
water jug broke loose and jammed
of the trip.
under my steering peddle while surfing
This would now become our personal
off a wave. We quickly learned that
adventure.
waste skirts are great for keeping the
We paddled past the Ten Thousand
waves out until you are forced to push
Islands into the Everglades interior and
out of a roll over. Once the first wave
made our first camp on an isolated
broke over the righted kayak, there was
beach framed in with a collection of
never an effective way to bail out before
massive weather-smoothed driftwood
the next wave broke.
that demanded appreciation against the
We had lost most of our reserve
scarlet sunset. Getting the tent set up
buoyancy and dry stores to the 15
before the mosquito cloud descended
new dry bags that were full of water
was a priority, but even with that, our
during the rollover. So much for reserve
first night was overwhelmed with
buoyancy. In addition, we lost our GPS
the high frequency noise of countless
and the absence of that tested my
mosquitoes on the outside of the
navigational skills throughout the trip.
tent's ventilation
However, on the bright
screen, eager for the
side, I was impressed
It was a direct 30+ mile
attractive meal we
to see that our newly
crossing south to our
presented inside.
installed sailing rig
home in Marathon.
At sunrise, we
and rudder assembly
reloaded and
suffered no harm
paddled south into Shark River, working
through the rigors of the day.
our way inland to the wilderness trail.
We learned shortly thereafter that
The afternoon's whipping wind turned
the U.S. Coast Guard had canceled the
the shallow water into mini whitecaps,
race due to the number of rescues and
seemingly redirecting our course and
unstable conditions. But after some
forcing us to pick up our cadence,
thought, Nora and I were determined
making each stroke count. Considering
to make the trip anyway. We were
the distance we were planning to cover
well-provisioned and truly wanted
that day, we speculated on the misery of
to get up close and personal with the
a night in the 'Glades if we were unable
inland waters of the Everglades, away
to find a dry spot to set up camp before
from cell phones, news and every other
dark. That would leave us sequestered
distraction that keeps one from briefly
in our kayak until sunrise—a disturbing
setting aside life's stresses.
possibility.
Since we were no longer constrained
The wind and the absence of GPS
by race rules, we decided to complete
course accuracy ate away at our rate of
the 200 miles of the Everglades
progress.
Wilderness Waterway and cross Florida
My earlier speculation was now our
Bay into the Florida Keys rather than
reality. We were counting turns and
follow the Everglades' broken coastline.
course angles in the dark, on a paper
All of our gear and the kayak had been
chart, with my headlamp killing my
thoroughly reviewed and we determined
night vision with each glance at the
that, other than some abrasions that we
70&'4 &'%- 9#8' 5*+'.&
.+(6+0) 564#-'5
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of dolphins we would come across
feeding in the shallow fresh water,
many miles from the gulf. Sometimes
in the restricted mangrove passageways
they would swim right by us on their
side, making direct eye contact as we
watched them pass. Occasionally an
alligator would venture out from the
shadows to remind us that they, and
their crocodile cousins, were the top
predator of the neighborhood.
More than half the distance inside
the Wilderness Waterway is a chain
of shallow, brackish lakes angling into
the southeast wind, leaving us with
significant open-water segments with
short whitecaps that would periodically
break over the bow. This forced us to
keep the skirts snapped in, which made
the inside of the kayak warm and humid.
It was always
more comfortable,
GLADES SUNSET
once back into a
A Florida Bay
sheltered passage,
sunset was one of
to disconnect the
the many rewards
of this exhausting
skirts from the deck
journey.
for good ventilation
through the kayak.
On the seventh night we paddled
into Flamingo. We set up camp and fell
asleep about 50 feet from the water.
Around 3 a.m. we were awakened by a
tremendous amount of thrashing and
wave action from a 15-foot crocodile
and the unfortunate critter she found
for dinner.
We unloaded all of the gear, portaged
the kayak over the flood-control gate
that separates the fresh water side
of the Everglades to the Florida Bay
side, reloaded Splinter and left the
Everglades behind.
It was a direct 30-plus-mile crossing
south to our home in Marathon.
The morning was spectacular and the
water was gin clear with vast schools
of sparkling juvenile fish, eagle rays
and several species of young sharks, all
oblivious to our presence. Many would
gracefully swim up to the shallow hull,
suddenly see us and explode into a
panic departure. Large spring flocks
of wading birds reflected in the early
sunlight giving, the illusion of snow
banks stretching on the horizon. The
great white pelicans, with wing spans
over 9 feet, were also congregating on
14
unwind | July 2016
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the water in huge flocks getting ready
for their seasonal departure to their
distant rookeries.
Florida Bay is not friendly to boats or
marine mammals needing water depth
of more than a few inches. All risk being
caught in a falling tide and dried out
in the sun until the next rising tide.
That's an inconvenience for us, but a
fatal error for the occasional dolphin
or shark caught fishing the area at the
wrong time. Even in our kayak we had
to negotiate course changes miles out of
our way to circumvent low tide shoals.
The absence of a GPS continued to
test my navigational skills. We only had
the surface refraction of the bottom's
transitional colors to warn of sudden
shifts from a couple of feet to a couple
of inches clearance.
North Florida Bay is flat and shallow
with slightly deeper connecting
channels carved out by the primordial
ebb and flow of the tides. The ancient
outflow of the River of Grass has lost
much of its life-sustaining and bottomcontouring influence into Florida Bay
over the past 50 years. What you don't
see up close is apparent at 40,000 feet, a
network of straight, manmade, eastwest canals cut through the Everglades,
engineered to redirect the natural
southerly sheet flow of freshwater east
into the Atlantic and Gulf instead of
Florida Bay. As beneficial as this massive
channel segmentation of the Everglades
has been to sugar cane farmers and
developers, it has been devastating to
much of the ecology of the Everglades
and Florida Bay.
The many gems of inspiring natural
beauty we experienced through the
Everglades and into Florida Bay would
not leave us as we made the 35-mile
paddle across Florida Bay to Marathon in
14 hours. Other than the wind once again
shifting ahead of us, the weather had
been excellent, with exceptional visibility
to the bottom, even in open water where
the depth dropped to 25 feet. Sunset
arrival left us feeling exhilarated and
fortunate in having completed our
journey, no worse for the wear.
Without hesitation, we both agreed
the trip was worth making again, but
starting from Marathon heading north,
with the prevailing wind to our back,
would be preferable next time.
SOUTHERNMOST APPEAL
KEYS HISTORY & DISCOVERY CENTER PRESENTS
FloridaKeysLuxuryHomes.com
SETTING
SAIL
in the Florida Keys
92003 Overseas Hwy.
KeysOceanfront.com
WRITTEN BY Craig Zabransky
For many of us, one of our
more profound memories of
the Florida Keys is celebrating a
sunset. Whether the celebration
occurred at a memorable locale,
like Key West's Mallory Square
or simply experiencing it at
the countless waterfront bars,
restaurants or marinas, the magic
of the moment improves even
more when a sailboat crosses the
horizon. We marvel at the sunset
but can't help but wonder what it
would be like to be the one on the
sailboat watching it.
It's no surprise, then, that a
sunset sailboat cruise or charter,
a popular tourist attraction
in the Florida Keys, ignites an
imagination of time at sea.
President Kennedy reminded us,
We are tied to the ocean. And
when we go back to the sea,
whether it is to sail or watch, we
are going back from whence we
came.
The sea is almost always in
view in the Florida Keys and
the island chain offers plenty of
opportunities not just to watch a
sunset at sea but to take action
and brave the world of wind and
water and set sail on the seas.
Most everyday exploration of
the Keys occurs by driving and
depending on where one might
stop, we can access the sea and
set sail on a new type of Florida
Keys adventure.
In Tavernier, Upper Keys
visitors find Sunshine Coast
Adventures where Capt. Jenny
MacLean offers American Sailing
Association classes and charter
opportunities for couples, or up to
16
unwind | July 2016
PHOTO BY Craig Zabransky
Celebrating
the
National
Park
Service
Centennial
is 50 years in the making of the work of renowned black-and-white
photographer Clyde Butcher as he traveled across the country. Best known
for his photography in the Everglades and surrounding natural places, the
exhibit features stunning photographs of national parks ranging from the
swamps in the Everglades to the mountains of Montana to the redwoods
in California. The exhibit is on display though August 28, 2016.
Exhibit made possible
through the generosity of
The Everglades Trust.
Keys History & Discovery Center
On the property of the Islander Resort,
a Guy Harvey Outpost, Islamorada, MM 82
Open Thursdays through Sundays • 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
General admission $12; Seniors $10; Children 13-under, free
Florida Keys History and Discovery Foundation is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit organization.
The Newman Team
305-393-1770
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SOUTHERNMOST APPEAL
LEARN TO SAIL
Explosive growth in the
bare-boat charter market
has increased access and
opportunity for travelers.
Before you decide to set sail
with friends on a course for the islands on your own,
certain American Sailing Association requirements
must be met.
Through ASA certified schools (all schools mentioned
are ASA, more info at ASA.com) one must pass the
following:
• ASA 101, basic keelboat sailing, 2 days
• ASA 103, basic coastal cruising, 3 days
• ASA 104, bare-boat cruising, 3 days
Key Largo & Tavernier
INDIAN SUMMER II
Captain Jenny
MacLean's 41 ft.
sailboat for small
sailing groups
is based out of
Tavernier.
ALL ABOARD
The Florida Keys
Sailing Club attracts
groups wanting
everything from
hourly to weekly trips.
cruising the Florida Keys for a week
three people, aboard her 41-foot Indian
on a monohull or even at times on a
Summer II.
catamaran.
With roots in Quebec's St. Lawrence
Easy access to both the Florida
waterway, MacLean migrated from
Bay and the Atlantic Ocean with
Canada in the late 1990s for a life of
destinations and weather patterns
adventure at sea in the Florida Keys.
different on both sides provides a
Today she operates her sailing school
perfect setting for sailing at sunset or
from her boat and makes sure she
sunrise.
mixes in snorkeling, swimming, fishing
Regardless of the type of sailing
and even guitar (she can play) sessions
experience, GDub notices a common
at sunset for students she politely
thread among his patrons. Even if
refers to as pirates.
they sailed before or if a friend dragged
On a recent excursion, she and her
them on board, when the person grabs
student crew, a 65-year-old couple,
the helm and gets the bug, he says, his
landed a beautiful swordfish while also
or her life will change forever.
showing them how to man the helm
The road may end in Key West, but
and slow the boat from eight knots to
the Florida Keys continue for another
two knots by adjusting the sails. While
seventy miles,
this catch ended
accessible only
up being catch and
by water. Here,
release, she offers
A Keys sunset becomes
the well-traveled
up locally caught
even more special when
husband and wife
fish on the menu
a sailboat crosses the
team of Kimber
for her students.
horizon.
and Capt. David
One of her
Whidden own and
greatest joys is
operate the Key West Sailing Academy.
checking up on past pirates as they set
Both have grown up on the sea. A
sail on charters around the globe.
couple of years ago they created the
In the Middle Keys, the owner of
sailing school in Key West on Stock
Florida Keys Sailing, known locally as
Island. In addition to his knowledge
GDub, leads a school established in the
of the sea, David Whidden was a
1990s. Annapolis, Md., set the stage
2015 American Sailing Association
for his adventures in sailing, and he
instructor of the year. The school
utilizes a pool of like-minded people as
couples the experience at sea with
instructors to spread the love of the sea
gourmet cooking since David also
and teach the joys of sailing.
gained experience catering for private
Marathon attracts a range of clients
jets on the gulf shores of Alabama in a
from those wanting to sail for just a
past life.
few hours to those that want to go out
Capt. Jenny MacLean, Sunshine Coast Adventures
SunshineSailing.com
Marathon
Capt. Gdub, Florida Keys Sailing
SailFLKeys.com
Key West
Capt. David Whidden, Key West Sailing Academy
KeyWestSailingAcademy.com
PHOTOS BY Craig Zabransky & COURTESY OF Florida Keys Sailing & Sunshine Coast Adventures
MANY OPTIONS
In the Middle Keys,
easy access to both
the Florida
Bay and the Atlantic
Ocean provides
many sunset and
sunrise options.
SNUBA®
Is great for the whole family ages 8 and up.
No need for training or heavy equipment in the water
Our Instructors will give you a thorough
orientation and accompany you and your family
while exploring one of our beautiful reefs
Key Largo
305-451-1500
Big Pine
305-735-4322
Islamorada
305-664-4637
Sugarloaf
305-745-1856
Marathon
305-289-5670
Key West
305-292-2923
unwind | July 2016
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Spearfishing, and Lobster Season Supplies
FromTraining to Outfitting We haveYou Covered
TILDENS SCUBA CENTER
www.c21Schwartz.com
Real Estate Sales, Property Management & Vacation Rentals
Each office is individually owned and operated.
18
Our Certified Instructors will train you to obtain
all Levels of SCUBA Certifications, starting with
OPEN WATER at age 10
4650 OVERSEAS HWY MM 49.5
Next to the Hurricane Bar & Grill
(305) 743-7255
Sea Us on the Web
www.tildensscubacenter.com
SOUTHERNMOST APPEAL
As seen on The Food Network
with Bobby Flay and Guy Fieri’s
Diners, Drive Ins and Dives
FUN FOR ALL
Sailing appeals
to boaters and
adventurers of
all ages, including
the kids.
A Key Largo Landmark for over 25 years!
SAIL FISH?
Captain Jenny
makes sure
customers enjoy
great fishing
and a rewarding
sailing experience.
The school offers access to the
Dry Tortugas and holds one of only
30 licenses to the U.S. national park
property. This adventure is not for
everyone, as it requires perfect sailing
conditions and there is nowhere to hide.
Additionally, the school owns
and operates a smaller 22-foot boat
designed to allow first-time students
access to an ideal learning vessel, as
well as a larger vessel, the Sargasso, for
the main voyages where the mission is
to make each detail unforgettable.
There are many schools and sailing
Lunch 11:30am to 4pm | Dinner 4 to 10pm | Market 10am to 10pm
102401 Overseas Hwy., O/S, Key Largo, FL 305-451-4665
the moments at sea don't become
opportunities across the Florida
a chance to unplug, but rather the
Keys. Locals and visitors alike will
chance to plug in and become truly
notice that each sailing school can
alive.
offer different
Captain Jenny
specialties,
summed it up so
approaches and
The Key West Sailing
well. “The Sea. It's
price points.
Academy holds one of
simple. If you listen
Several also focus
only 30 licenses to the Dry
to its whispers and
on youth sailing.
Tortugas national park.
moods, it will teach
Yet regardless
you the essence of
of the captain
life. The sailing is just a conduit to that
or location, everyone shares the
balance, that essence. And that's what
sailing experience once the lines
my students find out here.”
are cast. Then something happens;
Aandah Jantzen
Every mon - Sat 5 - 8 p
Experience the WALL OF SOUND
Art Exhibit Unveilling on July 24
CHICAGO’S PRESENTS BLUES 7 NIGHTS A WEEK FROM 8 PM ONWARDS:
JULY 17- 31, SEP 7 - 20
AUG 30 - SEPT 6
SEPT 22 - OCT 8
OCT 10 - 31
HAPPY HOUR 4 -7 DAILY
AWESOME
FISH TACOS
(
32 CRAFT BEERS ON TAP
(including Florida craft
beer specialties)
WATERSIDE DINING
SERVING BREAKFAST,
LUNCH & DINNER.
Open Late! Live Music!
522 Caribbean
Caribbean Drive
Drive
522
Key Largo
Largo Fl
Fl 33037
33037
Key
305.453.1905 •• Sharkeysgalley.com
Sharkeysgalley.com
305.453.1905
REWIND
The Florida Reef
RESTFUL VIEW
Beautiful coral reefs like the
Secret Garden Reef in the Upper
Keys have been around for
thousands of years.
COEXISTENCE
Sea creatures like this spotted
moray are virtually one with the
Keys coral reef.
SOFT CORAL
This gorgonian soft coral
resembles a strange tree and is
made up of living polyps.
22
unwind | July 2016
formation or melting of ice during the
The Atlantic side of the Florida Keys
various ice ages.
is bordered by a 150-mile long reef
The sea withdrew, the land rose, and
system that is the most extensive living
about 7,000 years ago what we think
coral reef in the United States and third
of today as the Keys reef system, came
largest in the world following Australia’s
into existence.
1,600 mile “Great
Florida's coral reef
The reef serves
Barrier Reef” and
the entire ocean
Belize’s 190 mile
system most closely
ecosystem by
barrier reef.
resembles a barrier reef.
providing food and
Approximately
living space for its tiniest residents as
100,000 years ago, the underwater
well as large sea dwellers that start life
areas that later would be known as the
in the reef. If one link in the ecosystem
upper and middle Keys were covered
chain breaks, others will follow.
with extensive living coral. The coral
Coral reefs support more species
came and went as the depth of the
per unit area than any other marine
sea rose and fell depending on the
PHOTOS BY Don Rhodes
WRITTEN BY Don Rhodes
environment, including about 4,000
species of fish, 800 species of hard
corals and hundreds of other species.
Scientists estimate that there may be
another 1 to 8 million undiscovered
species of organisms living in and
around reefs.
The three major kinds of coral reefs
found in the world are atolls, fringing
reefs and barrier reefs.
Florida's coral reef system most
closely resembles a barrier reef. However,
since the Florida reefs are closer to shore
and lack the shallow inshore lagoons
found on most barrier reefs, it’s more
aptly named a bank reef. Florida also has
patch reefs which are typically small and
grow between the reef tract and the land
in shallower waters.
Reefs serve many purposes
Coral reefs help to prevent loss of
human life, property damage, and
land erosion by providing buffers for
shorelines against waves, storms, and
floods. The absence of this reef system
would mean that damage to coastal
communities from violent wave action
or storms would be far more severe.
The biodiversity of our reef system
is considered key to finding new
medicines for the 21st century. Many
drugs are now being developed from
coral reef animals and plants as
possible cures for cancer, arthritis,
human bacterial infections, viruses,
and other diseases.
Navigational Challenges
The coral reefs that line the Keys
provide many benefits. But, historically
they posed hazards to shipping and
early exploration.
Currents and offshore geography,
including the reef structures,
compounded by powerful hurricanes,
have caused many ships to founder and
wreck. There are an estimated 1,000
July 2016 | unwind
23
REWIND
shipwrecks off the Florida Keys.
Numerous lighthouses were built
along the Keys to warn mariners of
shallow water obstacles and potentially
treacherous reefs. Some of these
historic landmarks are located at
American Shoal (five miles south of
Sugarloaf Key, built in 1879 and 1880),
Alligator Reef (four miles south of
Islamorada, built from 1871 to 1873),
Carysfort Reef (six miles south of Key
Largo, built in 1852), Dry Tortugas
(Loggerhead Key, far western end of
Dry Tortugas, established in 1858),
Sand Key (seven miles southwest of
Key West, built in 1852 and 1853), and
Sombrero Key (five miles south of
Marathon, built in 1857 and 1858).
Types of Corals
According to the Florida Department
of Environmental Protection (DEP),
algae, called zooxanthellae, which live
corals are classified as animals,
in the coral to grow.
yet microscopic plants live within
Corals form when free-swimming
the animal tissues in a symbiotic
coral larvae attach to submerged rocks
relationship, essentially diverse
or other hard surfaces. Many corals
organisms that live together for mutual
grow best in water temperatures
benefit. The coral animals benefit from
between 73° and 84° Fahrenheit.
the sugars and oxygen that the plants
Overall, coral reefs need specific
provide through photosynthesis (the
conditions to grow
process by which a
including a solid
green plant turns
About 7,000 years ago the
base, warm water
water and carbon
Keys reef system we know
which is low in
dioxide into food
came into existence.
phosphate and
when the plant is
nitrogen nutrients.
exposed to light)
In addition, moderate wave action
and the plants gain nutrients from
disperses wastes and brings oxygen
animal waste and are protected within
and plankton to the reef.
the coral tissues.
Local reefs at one time were
Most reef-building corals require
dominated by two species of reefsaline (salty) water ranging from 32
building corals - staghorn (Acropora
to 42 parts per thousand. The water
cervicornis) and elkhorn (Acropora
needs to be clear so that adequate light
palmata). Both species are fast
penetrates it for the photosynthetic
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that spread in all directions. They can
growing, branching corals that protect
be orange, lilac, purple, yellow, brown
coastal areas and provide valuable
or buff.
habitat for fish and invertebrates.
Unfortunately, an estimated 90-95% of
Reef in Danger
elkhorn coral has been lost.
Unfortunately, natural events and
Reefs are also composed of soft
human actions are causing rapid
corals, resembling strange trees and
declines in the world’s reef system.
shrubs. that are made up of living
Rising ocean
polyps. Unlike
temperature,
stony corals, soft
Corals form when freecoastal
corals do not
swimming coral larvae
development,
build limestone
attach to submerged rocks.
polluted runoff and
skeletons. rather
disease damage
they compose
or kill coral reefs. Other dangers for
a skeleton made of a horn-like
coral include ocean acidification which
substance called gorgonin.
occurs when oceans absorb too much
The most common soft corals in
carbon dioxide from the atmosphere
the Keys are sea fans and sea whips.
and rising sea levels caused by melting
Sea fans are pale lavender or green
sea ice, which makes some reefs too
fan-shaped corals. Their fans flutter
deep to receive adequate sunlight.
in the ocean current like lace curtains.
Coral reacts to the stress of higher
Sea whips have long feathery branches
STORM VICTIM
Reefs and storms
wreaked havoc and
caused many 19th
century shipwrecks
like this one at
French Reef in
Key Largo.
GOING STAG
The endangered
staghorn coral,
a branching, stony
coral, can be
restored through
plantings such
as this.
BRANCHING OUT
Elkhorn coral
provides valuable
habitat for fish and
invertebrates.
WISPY WHIP
Soft corals like these
sea whips in the Dry
Tortugas don't build
limestone skeletons.
water temperatures by expelling
the symbiotic photosynthetic algae
responsible for nutrient cycling within
the coral. This is called “coral bleaching.”
Though corals may bleach, they
are still alive and able to survive if
stressful conditions subside quickly
and they are able to regain their
algae. Some coral grow new algae and
recover from the bleaching. Others die,
causing the disappearance of a vital
ocean ecosystem.
Most environmental agencies
agree that Florida’s coral reefs are
succumbing to unprecedented levels of
coral disease. Disease moves so quickly
that some diseased corals die in as
little as two weeks. This is particularly
alarming since most corals only grow
an average of 1-2 inches per year and
it takes decades for the reef to recover
from this loss.
Building and Offering
The Best Modular
Homes Throughout
the Florida Keys
Micheal Martinez
(305) 522-1511
bigmikekw@aol.com
“Visit Us Online”
ISLAND CHARM
SPRAWLING
SHORELINE
Sombrero Beach is
one of the longer
and more accessible
beaches in the Keys.
Beach Paradise in the Keys
KICKING BACK
Sandspur Beach at
Bahia Honda State
Park is a mile long,
just north of the
park entrance.
park and many amenities. The water
gets deeper than at most beaches in the
Florida Keys, which is great for strong
swimmers but perhaps challenging
for youngsters. There are no snack
bar or beach-gear rentals, but plenty
of covered areas with barbecue grills
where cooking food is pretty easy. And
the kids will love the playground.
DEEP SECLUSION
Anne's Beach at
MM73 is one that
epitomizes Keys
style and tranquility.
BRING THE FAMILY
John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park
has something for
beachgoers of all ages
and interests.
26
unwind | July 2016
Key West Truman Waterfront
Fort Zachary Taylor, designated a
National Historic Landmark in 1973, is
Florida's southernmost state park. It’s
popular for its recreation and history;
WRITTEN BY Richard Tamborrino
The Florida Keys are a unique
vacation destination in so many ways.
It's an island chain with only one road
in and out. It's more than 100 miles
long but less than a quarter-mile wide
in many areas.
One distinction you might not
associate with a ribbon of islands is
that the beaches in the Keys bear only
a faint resemblance to beaches up and
down the eastern U.S. seaboard.
Sure, there's water, sand and myriad
sea life. But because the Keys rest
largely on a bed of coral rock, the
beaches are generally smaller, not
exactly the sprawling sandy coastlines
with which many are familiar.
Here are our top beaches in the
Florida Keys.
long Sandspur Beach just north of the
park entrance.
Calusa Beach is on the bayside of
the park between Big Pine Key and
Marathon. It's a terrific destination for a
picnic or family get-together because it's
sheltered, calm, picturesque and has a
covered picnic area with lots of parking.
Calusa is wonderful for families with
young children because the water is
calm. Excellent snorkeling opportunities
abound because there are so many fish
on hand, with a small reef close to shore.
Many consider Sandspur Beach one
of the most beautiful beaches in all of
Florida. The water is also shallow and
calm here, perfect for youngsters. Kayak
rentals are available in the park and
there are picnic areas, public washrooms,
lots of bike paths and a snack bar.
Bahia Honda State Park
Mile Marker 37
It's a beach version of a double-play,
featuring two world-class beaches in
one—Calusa Beach adjacent to the Bahia
Honda Bridge and the beautiful mile-
Sombrero Beach
Mile Marker 50 in Marathon
This beach is longer and more
accessible than many other Keys
beaches, with ample parking, a terrific
PHOTOS BY Emily Pulis & COURTESY OF Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau,
Curry Hammock State Park & Founders Park
HISTORICAL
BACKDROP
The beach at Fort
Zachary Taylor State Park
combines rich history
with plenty of shoreline.
Fort Zachary Taylor State Park
it was a mid-1800s construct to defend
the nation's southeastern coastline. It's
equipped with bathrooms, a snack bar,
picnic areas, barbecue grills and places
to rent beach equipment. The beach is
also convenient; you can bike there from
downtown. If you want a little break
from the sand and water or would like
a little culture, you can stop at historic
Fort Zachary Taylor for a fascinating look
at the history of the Keys.
Anne's Beach
Mile Marker 73
This is a beach that epitomizes Keys
style. It's surrounded by mangroves and
a secluded boardwalk. There are many
private coves and the crowds tend to
stay small as parking (two small lots)
is somewhat limited. There are several
picnic tables, so bring a lunch and a
cooler. The setting at Anne’s Beach
can be the perfect backdrop for photo
enthusiasts.
John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park
Mile Marker 102
Pennekamp is a great park
experience. It has one of the most
accessible beaches in the region and it's
a prime spot for snorkeling, especially
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Nightly Entertainment
Private Events
RECOMMENDED
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Key Largo MM 99.8 Southbound Lane Behind Traffic Light
I can Assist You...
Brenda Alexander,
Market
AIRBORNE
Sea Oats Beach at
Curry Hammock
State Park is a
great destination
for parasailing and
windsurfing.
BEACH CLUB
Smathers Beach in
Key West is where
people-watchers
go to take in all
the sights.
CASTLES
IN THE SAND
Founders Park
at MM 87 has
many sand and
water activities to
entertain visitors.
DOUBLE PLAY
The ‘other’ beach
at Bahia Honda
State Park is Calusa
Beach, adjacent to
the historic bridge.
Curry Hammock State Park
Mile Marker 56
Secluded Curry Hammock State
Park is yet another example of the
magnificent Florida Keys parks system
and a welcome destination for locals
and visitors alike. There are a multitude
of activities available including
kayaking, fishing and all types of water
activities. It's also become a popular
locale for parasailing and windsurfing.
You can camp and bring your RV to stay
the night. Amenities on site are limited,
so bring your own supplies.
unwind | July 2016
the food and atmosphere are excellent.
volleyball and tennis courts, lots of
Your canine buddy will love the Higgs
room for swimming and snorkeling,
Beach Dog Park. It has separate places
and a bike path along the beach. Kayak
for small and large dogs, and there are
and paddleboard rentals are available
drinking fountains throughout to keep
for those that want to get on the water,
your pup hydrated.
and chairs and umbrellas for those that
Rhonda L. Simonds-Brewer
Rest Beach is right next door to Higgs
want to relax.
GRl, CRS, Broker/Partner
Beach and is one of the nicest places to
There is a restaurant right on the
Your Exclusive Global
watch the sunrise in Key West. It has
beach, Salute! on the Beach. The
Connection In The
restaurant's view is impressive,Upper
and Keys.a deck where yoga classes are offered
FreedivingGear,
Gear,
Freediving
Freediving
SpearfishingGear,
Gear,
Spearfishing
Gear,
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Gear,
FreedivingCourses
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2940 Overseas Highway,
2940
Overseas Highway,
305-393-0513
Marathon,
Florida, MM 48.5
Marathon,
Florida, MM 48.5
rhonda@mooringsrealty.com
386-235-2713
2940 Overseas Highway,
386-235-2713
andrew@formulafreediving.com
Florida
Showcase
Marathon,
Florida,Keys
MM 48.5
MARKET
andrew@formulafreediving.com
305-481-5156
ISLAND CHARM
KeysIslandSales.com
every evening, so you can enjoy the
backdrop of a gorgeous sunset as you
execute your poses. Rest is also a great
spot for snorkeling, and a pretty nice
Vacation
Rentals
surf break. Separating
Higgs and
Rest
LongStreet
TermPier.
Rentals
& Sales
Beach is the White
The pier
Andi
Owner/Broker
is a perfect spot
for aSaylor,
stroll, and
it is
MM 83.2 Old
popular withBooks-Magazines-Flyers
fishermen,
whoHighway
come to
Business
and Greeting
Cards
Islamorada,
Florida
33036
fish off the pier.
All Types of Printing Done
On Premises using the
Latest Technology and
305-664-8808
in House
Graphics
KeysHolidayRentals.com
305-743-6732
geminiprinting.com
386-235-2713
for beginners. Visitors can take a glassbottom-boat ride out to Molasses Reef,
chock full of all types of marine life.
The park was the first underwater park
in the United States and was added to
the National Register of Historic Places
in 1972.
Pennekamp is not as secluded as some
of the other Keys beaches, regularly
attracting more than a million visitors
a year and making it one of the most
popular parks in the Florida State Parks
system. Other activities available in the
park are canoeing, diving, fishing, hiking,
picnicking, swimming and wildlife
viewing. Campgrounds are available.
28
Broker Associate
Florida keys Showcase
andrew@formulafreediving.com
PROP DOC
KEY WEST
Smathers Beach
Key West
This beach along South Roosevelt
Boulevard has virtually everything
you could want on a beach except
lifeguards. This is Key West's largest
public beach and it's brimming with
activity, so if seclusion is your goal,
other locales may suit you better. The
beach is next to a wide sidewalk packed
with bikers, inline skaters and people
out for a stroll. On the water you can
windsurf, kite surf, kayak or cruise on
a personal watercraft. Vendors rent
beach chairs, umbrellas and any type of
activity equipment you need. There are
plenty of bathrooms.
Dry Tortugas National Park
70 miles west of Key West
You can't exactly pack up the family
and just drive out to Dry Tortugas
National Park because you can only get
there only by a two-hour boat ride (the
official partner is the Yankee Freedom
ferry) from Key West or via seaplane.
The trek on the Yankee Freedom is
well worth it, as the waters around the
seven islands of the Dry Tortugas are
full of loggerhead and leatherback sea
turtles, shipwrecks, stunning reefs and
lovely shoals. Make sure you have an
underwater camera on hand to capture
the beauty of the sea life you see while
snorkeling or scuba diving.
Most that make the trip to Dry
Tortugas National Park leave amazed
at the serenity of drying off on the
soft, white sand of a beach you have
practically all to yourself. This is a
bucket-list activity.
Make
Buying or Selling
in the
keys
a Success
contact Jass
realtor
Sales
associate
10055 overseas
Hwy, Marathon
305.304.7508
JassTremblay@Gmail.com
Dreaming of Island Living?
Outboard
shaftsfor
fixed
on boat.
Searching
Luxury
or
Inboard
props
repaired
up to 60”
Casual
Keys
Living?
with
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I can
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You...
Brenda Alexander,
Brokerprop
Associate
In Water
Removal Available
305-481-5156
305-292-0012
KeysIslandSales.com
6003 Peninsular Ave
Key West, FL 33040
Special advertiSing Section
Founders Park
Mile Marker 87 in Islamorada
Founders Park is on the bayside
in the center of Islamorada and it's
by far the closest thing to a selfcontained, multi-use park as there is
the Florida Keys. It has a marina, boat
ramps, beach, baseball fields, tennis
courts, an Olympic-size pool and a dog
park. Unique activities also include
underwater hockey and pickleball.
The beach itself is spacious yet not
overwhelming in terms of size or
visitors.
FreedivingGear,
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SpearfishingGear,
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2940 Overseas Highway,
Marathon, Florida, MM 48.5
Marathon, Florida, MM 48.5
386-235-2713
2940 Overseas Highway,
386-235-2713
andrew@formulafreediving.com
Marathon, Florida, MM 48.5
andrew@formulafreediving.com
305-743-6732
geminiprinting.com
386-235-2713
andrew@formulafreediving.com
Higgs Beach
Key West
This beach on Atlantic Boulevard is
the go-to beach when Smathers Beach
gets too crowded, but it's also a great
choice if you brought your dog on
vacation. Higgs is very popular because
of the variety of activities you can do
there. It has a children's playground,
Books-Magazines-Flyers
Business and Greeting Cards
All Types of Printing Done
On Premises using the
Latest Technology and
in House Graphics
BEADS • SUPPLIES
TOOLS • LESSONS
Make Buying or Selling
CUSTOM JEWELRY
in the keys a Success
contact Jass
realtor Sales associate
10055 overseas Hwy, Marathon
305.304.7508
JassTremblay@Gmail.com
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Special advertiSing Section
PROP DOC
KEY WEST
Outboard shafts fixed on boat.
Do Inboard
you know someone
who is up to 60”
props repaired
looking to buy or sell their home?
with
dyba-bal
&
laser
technology.
As a Realtor and a General
Contractor,
I can help.
In Water prop
Removal Available
Brenda
Symonds
10055 Overseas Highway
305-292-0012
(305)
394-7882
Brendasymonds1@gmail.com
6003 Peninsular Ave
Key West, FL 33040
ESSENTIALS
Today’s Fresh Catch:
A Brand New Restaurant!
Splash
Angler & Ale is now open on the docks at
Hawks Cay Marina. Believe it or not, we found out
opening a great restaurant is a lot like landing a great fish.
Sometimes it takes a good while, but boy is it worth it!
INTO PEER-TO-PEER
BOAT RENTALS
We invite you to stop on by for some great food and the
coldest draft beer in the lower latitudes. Order off our
menu loaded with Florida Keys specialties. Or, bring in
your own filets for some great hook and cook options.
C
alling themselves the Airbnb
for boat owners, Boatbound
has arrived in the Keys, offering
a service that helps boat owners
offset the cost of ownership
and let more people
experience the joys of
the water.
Boatbound’s listings
website lets prescreened captains rent
fully insured vessels
across the country. It has made
huge inroads into South Florida
and is now starting to ‘make
waves’ in the Keys.
Most boats sit idle for extended
30
unwind | July 2016
periods of time, making ownership
expensive for the value it provides,
which is why boats have even
greater potential in this new
“sharing economy”. With a few
rentals a month, most
boats could pay for
themselves with little
inconvenience to the
owner.
The priority is making
owners confident that their
boats won’t be damaged. Through
a unique partnership with BoatUS
and Geico Insurance, Boatbound
has become “the first fully-insured
boat rental marketplace.”
Rental rates can vary from a few
hundred to a few thousand dollars
a day depending on boat size.
The fees include comprehensive
insurance coverage up to $2
million plus an extra $1 million
liability insurance. That means any
size boat is covered for anything
from scratches and dings to more
serious damage.
Their easy online process allows
boat owners to set up listings with
photos of their boats, descriptions
of amenities, engine size, capacity,
location, asking price, and
availability. You just need to visit
boatbound.com to get started.
Angler & Ale is a place where families can come together,
friends can hang out, and fish stories can definitely be
swapped. Our doors are open. The kitchen’s hopping. The
taps are flowing. We hope you’ll stop in to check us out
real soon.
Make your reservation by
calling (305) 209-9991
or visiting AnglerandAle.com.
WE
ARE.
Offered at $2,850,000
MARKETING
BEYOND
THE
EXTRAORDINARY
81888 Overseas Highway
Islamorada, Florida 33036
305.712.8888 | OceanSIR.com