CWT 33 Summer 2010 Issue for web.qxd
Transcription
CWT 33 Summer 2010 Issue for web.qxd
Traveller C A N A D I A N W O R L D Summer 2010 / Vol 8 / No 2 In This Issue Asia Zhengzhou, China North America Las Vegas North Africa Cairo, Egypt Canad a’s Only P rint an d On-lin e Consu mer Tr avel Magaz ine Printed on Recycled & Recyclable Paper A word from the editors W elcome to the Summer 2010 Issue of Canadian World Traveller (CWT), which is being distributed across Greater Montreal, as well as in select locations in the Greater Toronto Area. The magazine is now in the seventh year of its publication. This issue, as well as all of our previous 32 issues, are archived on our website at www.canadianworldtraveller.com. In addition, an electronic version of Canadian World Traveller is distributed by email to over 12,500 travel specialists and Travel Club readers across Canada. You will note that our publication is printed on recycled paper. This is just our small but significant contribution to our collective efforts to help preserve the forests of our beautiful planet. We hope that our initiative will inspire other print media to follow suit and that you will recycle this magazine after reading it or better still share it with others. Published by Canadian World Traveller In this issue, we invite you to explore Zhengzhou, China which has been called the “Cradle of Chinese Civilization” because of the many everyday things that were invented there in ancient times. We then spend a week at Las Vegas’ exciting new CityCenter, which is destined to forever change perceptions of the old “Sin City”. This sparkling revolutionary urban complex offers the visitor much more that just slot machines. Finally we return to Cairo, Egypt to learn more about the extraordinary mosques and other structures built by the little-known Fatimids, whose rule dated back to the 10th century when their empire grew to include all of North Africa and parts of the Arabian Peninsula. Happy Summer Travels Table of Contents Page Zhengzhou, China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Las Vegas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Cairo, Egypt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 W hy spend days recovering when you can take this homeo-pathic remedy during the flight and feel fresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time. www.nojetlag.com 4055, Ste-Catherine Street West, Suite 158 Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8 Tel.: (514) 667-2293 www.canadianworldtraveller.com Email: info@canadianworldtraveller.com Publisher Editor-in-chief Graphic Artist Advertising Marketing Distribution Ecotourism Contributors Michael Morcos Greg James Al Cheong Leo Santini Tania Tassone Royce Dillon Dave Taylor Tom Koppel Habeeb Salloum David J. Cox Tania Tassone Front Cover Photo: Zhengzhou, China Printed in Canada Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers. A unique, safe and natural homeopthic remedy for motion sickness. 32 easy to take chewable tablets in each packet. www.tripease.org NO-JJET-LLAG TM Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311 Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : gaelft@no-jet-lag.com Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 4 Zhengzhou Cradle of Chinese Civilization By Michael Morcos I t was a humid, overcast day and Mt. Songshan, the sacred Chinese mountain behind me, was hidden in the fog that coiled over its slopes like a slumbering dragon. In front of me, long rows of 1,200 yearold pagodas loomed through the mist, their tall towers outlined with ghostly petal-shaped eaves. Close by the "pagoda forest" stood an ancient Shaolin temple, the birthplace of Kung Fu and Zen Buddhism. As I marveled at the majesty of China's past, its ambitious, energetic present was only 40 kilometres away - the object of my visit, the city of ZhengZhou, a metropolis of eight million people that is both the cradle of Chinese civilization and an important part of this teeming nation's rapidly evolving future. See Zhengzhou, China on page 5 Zhengzhou, China Continued from page 4 China’s Heartland ZhengZhou is located on the Yellow River in the central Chinese province of Henan, 600 km south of Beijing. A transportation hub, its impressive airport boasts a variety of international carriers serving the city's dynamic manufacturing sector and world-class tourist destinations. Founded over 3,600 years ago by the Shang dynasty of rulers, ZhengZhou was China's first imperial capital, reaching its pinnacle under the Song dynasty (9th 12th century AD), the golden age of Chinese history. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 Today, that storied past is visible in hundreds of historic sites and attractions. Wherever you wander, it quickly becomes clear why the ZhengZhou area is considered the Chinese heartland - the region is responsible for many of the innovations that mark China's enormous contribution to human progress over the centuries, whether technical (the invention of indoor plumbing, eyeglasses, paper, and the first ever printing press), or cultural (the world's first libraries, secular literature, and transcribed musical compositions). And, yes, as befits an area that helped develop rice cultivation, dumplings, and pasta, the food is downright delicious. A Modern Town Given the wealth of history on display, it may surprise visitors to see how up-todate ZhengZhou is. While the sheer number of people in the streets can be daunting, the city retains a pleasant atmosphere. Modern, well signposted, filled with parks and gardens, and boasting a total of nine 4- and 5-star hotels, ZhengZhou generally feels airy and relaxed despite its hustle and bustle. The downtown radiates outward from the central Erqi Memorial along five major thoroughfares; within strolling distance are 5 the city's main shopping, entertainment and eating districts. At night, downtown side streets jam with vendors selling exotic snacks and curios. International Influences I made sure to sample local cuisine at lunch hour, trying signature dishes like hu la tang (a spicy and sour soup with glass noodles, seaweed, and meat) and zhengjiao (long steamed dumplings). Oftentimes, dining out became an opportunity to meet well-wishers, or passersby wanting to practice English. China's recent rush to international prominence is reflected by the attitudes of its citizens, many of whom are knowledgeable about the outside world. See Zhengzhou, China on page 6 6 Zhengzhou, China Ctinued from page 5 They are also influenced by it, as I found out when I stumbled onto a wedding party - the groom resplendent in a natty suit, his consort wearing a fairytale wedding gown any Canadian bride would die for. The local touch? Two interlocked gold padlocks held aloft by the happy couple, symbolizing love for ever after. Grand Heritage Once comfortable in ZhengZhou's humid subtropical climate (beware the May-September rains), I set out to explore the area's many cultural treasures. But where to start? The City God Temple, home of the traditional local deity? Or perhaps a stroll in the Yellow River Scenic Area, its 13 kilometres of views dominated by 50-metrehigh granite busts of two legendary emperors? China's attractions, modern and ancient, invariably tend towards the lavish and grand; as a result, even the laziest daytrip can quickly test the number of adjectives in any tourist's vocabulary ("Colossal! Exquisite! Amazing!"). In the ZhengZhou region, I had to choose between visiting the neighbouring city of Gongyi's Song Emperor Tombs (colossal) and heading to nearby Xinzheng's Temple of the Yellow Emperor (exquisite). Instead, I plumped for a third option 112 km to the west but easily reachable by bus: the amazing Buddhas of the Longmen Grottoes just outside the city of Louyang. Longmen Ghettoes At a time when medieval Europe was building cathedrals, Chinese Buddhist monks took a simpler but equally breathCanadian World Traveller Summer 2010 taking approach to the divine - they cut vast shrines from the sheer rock of mountainsides, carving elaborately sculpted caves (or "grottoes"), and transforming whole cliff-faces into unsurpassable stone statuary. Though present elsewhere around ZhengZhou (there are beautiful grottoes in Gongyi, for instance), these incredible achievements can be best seen at Longmen, where monks laboured for 500 years creating one of the wonders of the world, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The place itself is a revelation. Imagine if you can a mountainside torn away to reveal towering statues of the Buddha up to 17 metres tall; everywhere the surrounding cliffs pitted with grottos and niches (2,345 in all), their contents a treasure-trove of over 100,000 religious sculptures hewn from the sandstone rockface. In many of the grottos, every inch of space, including floors and ceilings, is covered with devotional carvings. On the cliffs outside, the giant statues pose frozen in the rock, defying the teachings of Buddha himself that all things are transitory. Millennium City Park ZhengZhou and its environs remain just as absorbing after nightfall. One evening I ventured to the smaller, skyscraper-free city of Kaifeng (45 minutes by train), long ago the residence of a tourist named Marco Polo. Upon arrival, I headed off to the Millennium City Park, dedicated to the sort of spectacle only the Chinese can pull off. The park is based entirely on a famous Song Dynasty picture, “Going Upriver for the Qingming Festival”. Details of the painting illustrating daily life during Song times are recreated throughout the elaborate theme park, which features intricate period architecture, torch parades, and "10th centurystyle shopping." Song Dynasty Show Henan Provincial Museum Back in ZhengZhou, I visited the Henan Provincial Museum (8 Nongye Rd in the city's north end) to make sense of everything I'd seen. Housed in a mammoth eye-catching pyramid, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of artifacts from China's 8,000-year history. Well-captioned in English (audio is also available), the exhibits include many rare relics, notably a burial gown made of jade and some of the earliest musical instruments known anywhere (demonstrations using replicas take place regularly). Expect to see lots of gold, along with priceless jewelry, ceramics, sculpture, paintings, and porcelain. Even more spectacular is the song-anddance production put on nightly at another Kaifeng theme park dedicated to the Song era, the Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden. The show, "Dreamlike Prosperity of the Eastern Capitol," depicts life in Bianliang, the Song capital. Vivid, expressionistic, and high tech, it features hundreds of costumed performers cavorting on extravagant stage-sets that defy belief. My favorite part was the show's surrealistic second act, "The Butterfly Fond of Flowers," which I thought couldn't be topped until I went to see traditional Yuju Chinese Opera in ZhengZhou itself another diverting evening spent in a mindboggling world of costumed finery, sumptuous sets, and idiosyncratic music. Futuristic New City Taking a break from tradition, I ventured into the "New City Zone," a massive futuristic development that will double ZhengZhou's size on completion in 2020. Consisting of two circles of identical skyscrapers ringing an artificial lake, the New City is intended to be both a commercial and residential centre. See Zhengzhou, China on page 7 Zhengzhou, China Continued from page 6 Features include an already finished performing arts centre (it looks like five gigantic golden eggs), along with a 6-star pagoda-shaped skyscraper hotel now under construction, and a convention centre containing a 5,000-seat auditorium. When done, fountains rising from the central lake will come alive in elaborate nightly shows, with jets of water reaching building height. Movies will be projected onto a screen of water vapor filling the night sky, producing a cinematic experience visible kilometres away. Mt. Songshan’s Temples An hour from ZhengZhou lies Mt. Songshan, one of China's five holiest mountains. Its tumbling scenery of crags, gorges, rope bridges and temple complexes has attracted visitors since the local Zhongyne Temple was completed during the Qin Dynasty in the 2nd Century BC. Even more famous is the Shaolin Temple at the mountain's base, built 700 years afterwards by Buddhist warrior monks who founded both the esoteric practices of Zen Buddhism and the martial arts discipline of Kung Fu. Destroyed many times by the monk's opponents during its long history, the temple complex was only restored to its previous splendour in 1981. Today, it continues to house a population of monks who remain devoted to Buddhism's study when not putting on hourly displays of acrobatic prowess and wizardly martial skills for tourists. Shaolin Music Ritual Many of the Shaolin monks' feats (smashing iron bars over their heads; balancing on spear points; flinging nails through plates of glass without smashing them) are astonishing to witness, as is the 7 extravagant "Music Ritual," a nightly show put on during the summer. Although expensive to see, the epic production is well worth the admission price: horses, chariots, boats, medieval siege machines, and hundreds of whirling monks all fill an outdoor stage to tell traditional battle stories enacted on a lavish scale - a grand finale to the spectacular sights of ZhengZhou. For More Info on ZhengZhou: China National Tourist Office 480 University Ave, Suite 806 Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 Tel: 416-599-6636 or 1-866-599-6636 Official Websites: www.tourismchinaca.com and www.cnto.org Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 8 Las Vegas Like You’ve Never Experienced It Before! By Greg James L as Vegas… Sin City, glitzy showgirls, 24-hour casinos, aging crooners, free drinks, mediocre cuisine, quickie weddings, tacky recreations of the world's iconic landmarks and a longstanding reputation as the "anything goes" capital of the USA! That's what most people think of Vegas. Well, no more. CityCenter, the stunning new addition to the world-famous Strip has changed all that! See Las Vegas on page 9 Photos: Courtesy of CityCenter, Las Vegas Las Vegas Continued from page 8 A Complex for Our Times The brainchild of MGM Mirage, now renamed MGM Resorts International, CityCenter is truly a city within a city. This 67-acre complex of buildings, plazas and "green" pathways brings together within walking distance the very best of accommodations, dining, shopping, entertainment and relaxation amenities in an eco-friendly, people-oriented environment unheard of in the history of Las Vegas and indeed the entire USA. Form and function truly converge here with impressive public art and innovative architecture and interior design creating a feast for the senses while maintaining a human-scaled ambience. A popular saying goes, "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas." However, after my short stay at CityCenter, I couldn't wait to tell all! Aria Resort & Casino I had never stayed at a resort casino before but the Aria belies what I'd heard about such establishments. The moment I entered the lobby I was struck by its airy, elegant and almost hushed atmosphere. I would later discover that the worldrenowned firm of Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects had designed this state-of-theart gently curving eco-friendly edifice. The reception area staff of the Aria who welcomed me in such a personable and friendly manner made it nearly impossible for me to believe that this was a 61-storied, 4,004-room hotel! A 21st Century Room The casino’s wide central aisle led to the elevator that whisked me up to my room. I knew that I was in Las Vegas the minute I closed the door behind me. The room's wall-to-wall blackout drapes, followed by its sheer curtains, silently slid open to reveal a stunning bird's eye vista of the city's famous neoncovered Strip and the ridge of the snowcapped Spring Mountains beyond! While the décor, furnishings and amenities of my room where second to none, it was the bedside touch-screen monitor that impressed me the most. All of the functions in the state-of-theart room, including the lights, air-conditioning, TV and curtains could be controlled from the pad-sized monitor without getting out of bed. City Within a City Although I had never visited Las Vegas before, many of my friends were amazed when I told them that I hadn't ventured out to see most of its clichéd flashy landmarks that run along the Strip. First of all, it actually rained quite a bit during my four-day stay in late January. Annual precipitation in Las Vegas is only about 4.5 in (110 mm), which usually occurs during the entire span of the winter months but it seemed it all fell during my visit, not something you would expect in the Nevada desert. But more to the point, there was so much to see and do within CityCenter that I had little time for anything else. 9 What follows is a brief overview of some of CityCenter's fascinating and impressive components. Leaning Veer Towers The first time I saw these two glass-covered, 37-storey towers leaning in opposite directions (five degrees from centre), I thought I was seeing things. The two towers each feature approximately 335 condo-residences for those who want to make Vegas their permanent home. Because they tilt away from each other, the residents of each tower can enjoy unobstructed views. World-Class Shopping The towers rise from an equally spectacular shopping, dining and entertainment emporium, Crystals, which is a destination all by itself. Crystals' eye-popping interior architecture and stunning indoor fountains vie with the likes of Tiffany, Bulgari, Cartier, Christian Dior, Fendi, Van Cleef & Arpels and Versace for the attention of wellheeled shoppers or casual browsers. What was most impressive was the lack of any snobbery at these exclusive establishments. Maybe it's because they couldn't tell if you were a big winner at the casinos the night before! See Las Vegas on page 10 Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 10 Las Vegas Viva Elvis! Viva Las Vegas! I was thrilled to discover a Montreal connection in Aria's opening show Viva ELVIS, which was created and performed by Montreal's own Cirque du Soleil. This spectacular tribute to the late great Elvis Presley explores highlights of his life through dance, acrobatics and live music. Continued from page 9 Exclusive Vdara Hotel and Spa This unique 57-story crescent-shaped hotel and spa offers 1,495 suites for those who prefer a non-gaming environment. Its Sky Pool & Lounge features 19 luxuriously appointed retreat cabanas including six spa cabanas. Vdara's 10,000 square feet of conference space can accommodate up to 400 guests and its Silk Road restaurant offers a contemporary Mediterranean menu. One of the hotel’s most prominent public art pieces is Nancy Rubins' towering "Big Edge" installation. It consists of colourful, life-sized, stainless steel and aluminium canoes and other watercraft suspended by nearly invisible cables in a gravity-defying cluster some 50 feet above the hotel’s driveway. Smorgasbord of Food and Drink CityCenter's innovative green solutions include everything from its specially designed slot machine bases that double as air controllers to the world's first fleet of stretch limos powered by compressed natural gas. On another fascinating tour, a representative from CityCenter's collaborator WET guided us through the five exclusive water expressions they created for CityCenter. These included Aria's stunning exterior fountain featuring dancing shoots of beaded water as well as the hotel's dramatic interior two-storied glass "waterfall". It may seem strange that water features in the desert would be environmentally sound but the water used is constantly recycled and has a cooling effect whether indoors or outdoors. There were many magnificent restaurants located at the Aria and elsewhere in CityCenter. Most memorable were the authentic paella creations at Julian Serrano; Michael Mina's signature fish and seafood dishes at American Fish; the Latin inspired menu at Beso and the succulent steaks lovingly prepared by award-winning chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten. Art and Architecture East Meets West at the Mandarin Rounding out the unique combination of properties located in CityCenter is the 47-storey Mandarin Oriental that is a revolution in sustainable design and a welcome oasis of non-gaming oriental calm. The Mandarin Oriental's elegantly appointed 23rd floor Sky Lobby, restaurant and bar offer some of the most breathtaking views of Las Vegas. During my Las Vegas sojourn, I attended a cocktail reception at the intimate 23rd floor Mandarin Bar where I was graciously served signature cocktails and creative titbits of finger food while marvelling at the 225-degree glittering views of Las Vegas spread out below me. Green and Wet Features While on an informative sustainability tour, I discovered that CityCenter is the largest private green development in the world. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 CityCenter's fine art collection that seems to be found everywhere one turns is just too large to be listed here. However I cannot fail to mention a few outstanding pieces. On entering the Aria, one is struck by Maya Lin's "Silver River", which is cast in reclaimed silver. The 84-foot-long sculpture hangs over Aria's registration desk. The late famed British sculptor Henry Moore's contribution "Reclining Connected Forms" was carved out of Roman travertine marble and is installed in "The Park" between the Aria and Crystals. Finally, the aforementioned "Big Edge" by Nancy Rubins that stands in front of the Vdara and Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen's "Typewriter Eraser, Scale X" found near the Mandarin Oriental, are both playful and imaginative - exactly what great public art should be! As to the spectacular architecture and interior design of CityCenter's buildings, the kudos go to the likes of Cesar Pelli, Daniel Libeskind, Kohn Pedersen Fox, Helmut Jahn, Rafael Viñoly, the Rockwell Group, Norman Foster, Gensler and more than 45 interior designers. Dancing the Night Away The evening I spent at HAZE Nightclub in the Aria was truly mind-blowing. The Light Group designed this huge multi-levelled, surreal entertainment venue where state-of-the-art technology controlled the amazing sound and light system. This was my last night in Las Vegas and what a way to spent it! A Fitting Farewell An early morning massage at The Spa at Aria was just the right remedy for that old morning-after-the-night-before feeling. On my way to the airport driving past the old-style casinos, I mused at what impact CityCenter would have on existing perceptions of Las Vegas. I know this city-within-a-city had dramatically changed mine. During my stay I hadn't spent a single quarter on the slot machines and yet had experienced one of the best times of my life. More Info on CityCenter: www.citycenter.com www.arialasvegas.com 12 Egypt Exploring the Cairo of the Fatimids By By Habeeb Habeeb Salloum Salloum "You must walk Cairo's Muizz li'Din Allah Street! It's full of history. I'm still in awe at what I've seen." Husn Abboud, a budding Arab Canadian writer seemed to be in a trance as she related to me the high point of her trip to Egypt. Now, a year later, I stood with Ahmad, the muezzin (the official appointed to call adherents to prayer) of Al-Hakim bi Amr Allah Mosque, atop Bab AlFutuh, one of the three remaining of the 60 gates of the city's once all-encompassing 10th century Fatimid walls. As I surveyed Muizz Street below me, I thought of Husn's words that had given me the urge to explore this venerable city within a city. Over 1,000 years have passed since the foundation of this ancient town was laid yet still Fatimid Cairo abounds with domes and minarets. Even though from my vantage point, the town appeared rundown, it still had the majesty of history. See Egypt on page 13 Egypt Continued from page 12 Undiscovered Cairo Long noted for the Giza Pyramids with their Sphinx and the city's Museum of Antiquities, Cairo has other equally appealing tourist attributes. It is abounds in intriguing Islamic monuments, virtually unknown to the vast majority of visitors from the West. The city's magnificent historic mosques with their appealing domes and minarets are a world of history and exoticism, waiting to be discovered. More than the pharaohs' monuments, colourful oriental bazaars and plush hotels, these mosques will, no doubt, one day draw streams of visitors. Still hidden from the view of western travellers, they are like underground gems waiting to be mined. Unlike in the neighbouring countries, there still remain a good number of historic places of worship in Egypt since the country never suffered the same fate as the Arab lands of the “Fertile Crescent” where Crusaders and Mongols destroyed most of the ancient monuments. Capital of Fatimid Empire With the planet Mars in the ascendant, the first stone of Cairo was laid by General Gawhar who had conquered Egypt for the North African Dynasty, the Fatimids (a Shicite Islamic sect). He named it Al-Qahira (the Conqueror), the Arab name for Mars, from which the name Cairo is derived. Subsequently, the city became the capital of the Fatimid Empire, which once included all of North Africa and parts of the Arabian Peninsula. In the centuries that followed, Cairo flourished and became one of the most prosperous urban centres in the world. Historic Street The town Gawhar established, remnants of which were spread out below us, has remained the heart of Cairo until our 13 times. Of course, the rulers that followed added their own touches. Ayyubids, Mamluks, and later, Ottomans, all embellished Muizz Street, the main avenue of See Egypt on page 14 Magnificent Mosques For visitors not acquainted with the Islamic face of Cairo, a guide well versed with its mosques and Islamic history is a must. To get an overview of the hundreds of these Muslim houses of worship, the itinerary should include four historic mosques: Ibn Tulun, Al-Azhar, Sultan Hassan and Muhammad Ali, representing the handiwork of the main Islamic dynasties in Egypt. All of these mosques are open to tourists and are worth lingering visits However, if one is to get a real feel of historic Cairo, visiting the well-preserved Fatimid district is a must. It was established on the 5th of August in 969 A.D. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 14 Egypt Continued from page 13 the Fatimid city, with their structures - the highest and most varied concentration of medieval monuments in the city. Duing these centuries, medieval Cairo became one of the towns of the Arabian Nights. Ibn Buttuta, the famous 14th century Arab traveller, after visiting the city, wrote: "I arrived at length at the city of Cairo, mother of cities, mistress of broad provinces and fruitful lands, boundless in the multitude of buildings, peerless in beauty and splendour..." As I gazed on these historic monuments, I thought of the emirs and sultans who had vied with each other in erecting a more magnificent mosque or madrasa (school). The forest of minarets of these structures today help to give Cairo its Arab/Muslim atmosphere and make this area of the city a picture of oriental splendour. Minarets of Al-Hakim As we walked down from Bab Al-Futuh to the door of Al-Hakim Mosque (9901013), Ahmad turned to me, "Did you say that you were of Syrian origin? Are you a Druze?" I was somewhat astonished, "No! Why do you ask?" He said that money was needed to complete the renovation of the mosque and he thought that if I were a Druze I would consider donating some money. The Fatimid ruler, Al-Hakim bi Amr Allah, who built the mosque, is important in the Druze (a Muslim sect) religion. However, in Islamic history, Al-Hakim is famous for his eccentricities and arbitrary edicts. He declared himself divine and gave birth to the Druze sect - found today in the greater Syria area. His mosque, noted for its unique minarets, was allowed to fall into ruins until it was recently renovated by funds from the Bohras, an Ismaili Shi'i sect, found in India. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2010 Travelling Back in Time From this controversial mosque, walking down Muizz Street was like travelling back centuries. A traveller will never find so much history concentrated in one spot. There are at least forty interesting historic structures in the area - for those interested in Islamic history, all worth exploring. Crowning these monuments are those structures that go back to the Fatimid age. Architectural Gem After a few minutes walk, I stopped to examine the Al-Aqmar Mosque (built between 1121-1125), a true seminal monument, important in Cairo's architectural history. One of the few Fatimid buildings still almost intact, it contains among its decorations a unique stone facade, fine examples of Fatimid woodcarving and many historical inscriptions. Outside the mosque, a young welldressed youth, noting that I was trying to read an inscription commented, "I see you are interested in our old mosques! Don't you think that we should be moving into the future, not always thinking of the past? We need technical colleges, not religious monuments." I did not have a chance to answer before he disappeared in the crowd. Like many students throughout the Arab world, he believed that emphasizing the historic past was preventing the country from moving into the modern age. Centre of High Learning Past a series of other venerable monuments, I reached Al-Azhar Mosque - the greatest gift the Fatimids gave to the Muslim world. Founded in 970 by Gawhar, it soon began to play an important role in the religious life of the Muslim world, and this has continued until our times. Also, at a very early stage, it became a centre of high learning. Today, it competes with the Qarawiyin Mosque in Fez, Morocco, as being the oldest university in the world. In recent years, the subjects taught there have been modernized. In addition to the traditional studies, commerce, medicine and science have been added. Today, Al-Azhar and the nine other campuses it administers, cater to over 100 thousand students. Through the centuries ruler after ruler expanded the mosque until in our times it has become a great combination of styles - all blending well together. Only the Central Court and a few other minor parts of the mosque go back to the Fatimid era. Trinkets, Tea & Thoughts After exploring this world-renowned mosque-university, I roamed through the edging Khan al-Khalil, one of the greatest oriental bazaars in the world, ending my day by purchasing a few souvenirs, of course, after much bargaining. Tired, I sat down in the very crowded Fishawi's Tea House, much frequented by entertainers, intellectuals and tourists. Here, over a cup of tea, I contemplated the passing scene. The 250-year old cafe, still operated by the same family, consisted of two long parts divided by a much-used alleyway. Between the bumps of passersby, I thought of the Fatimids and their surviving monuments. These impressive structures are well worth exploring not only by those travellers interested in the history of Islam and its civilization but also by anyone who wants to discover Egypt beyond its famous pyramids and temples of the Pharaohs. More Info About Egypt: Egyptian Tourist Authority in Canada 2020 University, Suite 2260 Montréal, QC H3A 2A5 Tel: 514-861-4420 Fax: 514-861-8071 Email: info.ca@egypt.travel Official Website: www.egypt.travel Make Your Winning Move.