Tbilisi, Georgia - Scottish Football Association

Traditional eats include khinkali and
khadjapuri. The former is a meat dumpling
– but make sure you eat it properly and avoid
becoming a dumpling yourself. Get hold of
the dough at both sides of the knot at the
top (with fingers), pepper it lightly, have a bite,
suck out the gravy then eat. They’re tasty and
filling. The khadjapuri is akin to a cheese pasty
and boasts several different fillings. For once
we can say that vegetarians are well catered
for – even meat-eaters will be converted
by the tastebud-tingling spreads, sauces and
pickles.
Georgia is famous, quite rightly, for its
excellent wine. The national spirit – Chacha
– may well have you dancing round the room
as it’s 70% proof (it’s like grappa). As for
non-alcoholic stuff fruit juices abound (the
raspberry iced tea is great) as does Borjomi
mineral water which comes in different
varieties – sparkling, non-sparkling and
sparkling salty – bit strange but apparently
very good for you.
Toasts are taken very seriously here. At
a Supra (Georgian table) the Tamada
(toastmaster) is boss and what they say goes
– always wait till you are instructed before
saying anything or drinking. Georgians will
use just about anything as an excuse to drink
and even an informal lunch can descend
into toasting. The golden rules to remember
are: Never toast with beer (only wine or
brandy) and never with your left hand. This
is considered offensive, even by the most
friendly and liberal of Georgians.
RESTAURANTS/CAFÉS
Wed 17 October 07
Boris Paichadze
National Stadium
Tbilisi
Kick-off 21.00 (local time)
georgia
v scotland
Whether you’re after Chinese, French cuisine,
Asian spices or pizza you’ll find something to
suit your taste at the area in and around the
upmarket Sharden Street. Other places to
eat are …
Shemoikhede Genatsvale (5 K.
Marjanishvili St) – The longest-named
restaurant in Tbilisi – and one of the nicest,
especially for stuff you would never touch
back home. The eggplant and walnut starter is
tasty as is the khinkali and roast pork served
with a sour plum sauce. A cool (literally) and
relaxing place to eat where a meal for two
and a couple of beers will cost around 30 Lari.
There is another outlet at 25 Leselidze St.
Marco Polo (44 Rustaveli Ave) – Five floors
of eatery and drinkery with everything from
a tavern in the basement to a banquet hall
at the top – an ideal setting for any groups
who want a good meal, a bottle of wine and
a quieter build up to the match. Large groups
who book in advance may be able to get a
discount. The pork steak is brilliant and the
staff are very friendly and helpful. Menus in
English, draft beer 2 Lari. Tel: 935383.
Cafe Lotus (facing Freedom Sq) – This is a
vegetarian corner caff where greasy nosh is
certainly off the menu. Tasty dishes at cheap
prices are the order of the day.
McDonald’s (Republic Square) – You know
what the food is like, but this is worth coming
to just to see how nice a McDonald’s building
can actually look.
Nikala (Several sites including Rustaveli
Avenue) – This is the Georgian answer to
McDonald’s and is a good place to have a
quick lunch.
Restaurant Kalakuri (right bank)
– Located next door to one of Tbilisi’s top
hotels, The Ambassadori. If you’re looking
for some excellent nosh this eatery, which
translates as ‘city restaurant’ is expensive (by
local standards) but very good.
Cafe Kala (8/10 Erekle II St) – European
and Georgian cuisine – so you can order
an exotic dish with a spag bol chaser. www.
cafekala.info-tbilisi.com
Taglaura (77 Kostava St) – A massive
traditional beer house west of Heroes Square
(about 10 minutes from the centre by taxi)
which has room for a Tartan Army invasion.
Kinkali Sakhli (37 Rustaveli Ave at
Republic Square in the underground complex)
– Named after Georgia’s traditional dumplings
this joint which is quite tricky to find, has
loads of room and provides a hearty meal
at cheap prices. Make sure you like khinkali
though as it’s the only thing on the menu,
albeit with a variety of fillings like mushroom,
potato and cheese.
PUBS
You’ll find a number of pubs/restaurants to
suit every taste in the area around Sharden St.
At the other end of town, on Kiacheli St and
G. Akhvlediani St near Respublikis Moedani
(Republic Sq), there are enough drinking holes
to keep you occupied. Stick with the local
brews (Natakhtari or Kazbegi) which are
tasty, refreshing and a smidgen of the price of
European bottled beers. Pubs open and close
with great regularity in Tbilisi, but at the time
of writing all those mentioned below were
still serving.
Nali (4/1 K. Kiacheli St at join with G.
Akhvlediani St) – This bar has a reputation
as a good hangout with people sometimes
bursting into song despite the fact it’s not
a karaoke bar. Popular with the ex-pats,
the locals and anyone else who happens to
wander in. The Whyte & Mackay ATAC Fans
Embassy will be open at this bar on Mon 15
Oct 7-8pm, Tues 16 Oct 6-8pm & Wed 17
Oct 12-2pm.
Hunter’s Tavern (6 Sanapiro St) – It looks
like someone went to a DIY store and bought
two garden huts. But once you get inside the
larger of the two wooden structures you’ll
feel all cosy – and that’s just the warmth of
the staff welcome. With a piano, an organ,
a stereo and a small stage you can be sure
there’ll be entertainment (for us and them).
Half-an-hour’s walk from the stadium it could
be a good matchday pub. See www.hunter.
info-tbilisi.com for more info.
Kaiser Brau (8 Sioni St) – A mini brewery
with a big, warm welcome for the kilties
– they’ll even show you how they make the
unfiltered German beer after which the pub
is named. Although it’s quite tricky to find
(locate the Sioni Cathedral on the right side
of the river, look for a griffin and you’ll see
the sign up an alleyway) there’s big screens,
good European food and ample room for
supporters.
The Hangar Bar (20 Shavteli St)
– Although this Irish rugby-loving bar is small
there’s an ornate dining room and a courtyard
outside and rumour has it that around 1000
French fans were able to party in the streets
surrounding the pub recently.
Dublin (8 G. Akhvlediani Street) – Legend
has it that this imaginatively-titled pub is
built on the spot where merchants used to
stop and rest during their travels. If you rest
your weary legs you can expect to do so
in the company of a pint of the black stuff
and perhaps some musicians as live music is
sometimes on offer. Food is also served. Open
noon til 2am. See www.info-tbilisi.com/dublin/
World Sport Café (5 V. Maiakovski
St, across from the Mushaedi Garden)
– Georgian football fans will address you
something like this: “Shot’landieli? Shota
Averladze! Rangers! Celtic! Glasgow…”
and good on Mr Averladze and his brothers
for providing this pub just 200 yards from the
entrance to the National Stadium. Although
closed at the time of our visit we are assured
it will be open on the day of the big match.
www.info-tbilisi.com/sportcafe/
Tavern Toucan (8 L. Kiacheli St) – Beer,
food, music and a Scottish Lion Rampant
flag hanging from the roof – can’t be bad.
Apparently opens from 11am-2am. See www.
toucan.info-tbilisi.com.
The Beatles Club (25 Kostava St) – Now
for those of you who have had a hard day’s
night or been working like a dog then this
might be the place to unwind. Beatlemania
at its most extreme in this pub/club run by
devoted fans of the Fab Four.
Wheels (16 G. Akhvlediani Str) – Not far
from the Dublin pub and what do you know
another Irish Bar, but gives you that bit more
choice doesn’t it?
CLUBS
During the summer the clubs ‘migrate’ to the
seaside holiday town of Batumi. By October
they should have returned to the capital.
On G. Akhvlediani Str you’ll find some new
places and it might be worth looking up www.
info-tbilisi.com or www.etbilisi.com (but be
warned that some clubs appear even though
they closed down ages ago). Many clubs only
operate at the weekend, but just in case here’s
a few details.
JR’s (Sheraton Metechi Palace Hotel, Issani)
– Run by a Scot it may be the perfect place to
boogie the night away. A good old-fashioned
disco where you are at least likely to
recognise a few of the songs being played.
Night Office (Under Baratashvili Bridge)
– Three bars to reflect three different moods
(relaxed, comfortable and moody) mean this
club can cater for up to 1000 revellers. The
laser shows are renowned and local DJs keep
those tunes pumping. Over 18s only, open
Fridays and Saturdays. Prices are 25 Lari for
men and 15 Lari for women. See www.infotbilisi.com/nightoffice/ for more info.
Club Gvirabi ‘Tunnel’ (30 L. Asatiani St)
– Situated on a street facing the Botanical
Gardens this is a stalwart club of the city.
Might need to take a few twists and turns to
get to the club, but said to be a really buzzin’
place.
TBILISI
Please be aware that the purple dots on the maps show the approximate location of the relevant bar or pub.
Also note that there are multiple spellings of street names (for example, Sharden St and Chardin St are one and the same).
Maps are also quite inconsistent with streets appearing on one map and not another. However, we’ve tried our best to make
our maps as accurate as possible.
TBILISI
STADIUM GUIDE
for ongoing supporter information
www.scottishfa.co.uk
BEER AND BELLIES
The Boris Paichadze National Stadium where Dinamo Tbilisi play
is the chosen arena for the match on Wednesday October 17th.
The 55,000-seater ground has recently been totally refurbished and
is now widely recognised as one of the best stadiums in Eastern
Europe. The stadium is just outside the centre of the city on the
left bank of the river, but you may still face a long walk (about 30
minutes) depending on where you set off from. We advise you to
get there early as there could be as many as three cordons and
checks outside the stadium. There are few bars and restaurants
in the area close to the ground, but fans can walk right round
about the stadium and there are some small snack bars serving
refreshments. Streets around the stadium are often closed hours
before a big match so if you want to get a taxi there do so early.
Later on getting right to the ground by taxi may not be possible
so the metro could be an alternative. For a flat rate of 40 Tetri you
can buy a small orange token at the counter which you slot in at
the turnstile. Take care on the escalators – they’re extremely fast
and seem to stretch for miles. From the Rustaveli metro station go
down the escalator and await the train on the left platform. Get off
at the second stop, station (Vagzlis Moedani), and turn left off the
train, leaving at the exit with the big sword over the arch. Once at
street level turn right down Tevedore Mgvdeli St then first left down
G. Tsabadze Street where the stadium will become visible on your
right. The walk will take you about 10 minutes.
There is no culture of football violence or racism in Georgia
but supporters should always be aware of the potential for
troublemakers and be alert at all times.You’ll also be delighted to
know that musical instruments and small flags are permitted in
the ground and, for the ladies, they’re even putting on some extra
toilets. Disabled fans will also be well catered for.
Our allocation is situated in the South Stand’s west corner
– areas 3 & 4 – Upper Tribune (stand) which will be covered. The
South Stand is situated on G. Tsabadze Street. Be aware that for
operational reasons seating plans could change and we ask you to
be patient if this occurs. English speaking stewards should be on
hand to direct you should you need any help. Scotland fans should
be aware that at the end of the match the police may require you
to stay in the stand for a short time until the Georgian supporters
have cleared the stadium.
Alcohol or any item which can be used as a weapon (bottles,
flagpoles, etc) will not be permitted in the stadium. Segregation
for fans inside the ground has been organised to ensure safety and
security to help make the match as enjoyable as possible.
If there is a general power failure during the match stay in your seat
until told otherwise and follow the instructions of the police and
stewards.
Currency
Convertor
£1 = 3.31 Lari
$1 = 1.65 Lari
Please note currency
conversion rates approximate
as at 19/09/07
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Tbilisi is a real gem. It’s small enough to get around but big enough to be interesting. In
this day and age when everywhere looks and feels the same Georgia’s capital is a welcome
change. The remnants of the Soviet era are apparent in the gargantuan, functional buildings
which sit alongside traditional Georgian houses with their wooden balconies and bright
colour schemes. The hills, the river, the magnificent churches are the beauties alongside
the beasts of the unfinished pavements, mass of construction work and old bangers which
putt-putt along the busy streets. Turning a corner is always exciting – most of the time you
don’t know what to look at first. Just walking around is the best thing to do – but here are
a few sights to catch if you can.
Please take off any hats when visiting a church. Also be aware that there is an unwritten
conservative dress code when visiting a church, which may not extend to men wearing kilts
at certain religious sights. Please respect their wishes if challenged about your attire.
Sulphur Baths (Abano St) – The water from the hills over Tbilisi is naturally warm
(36.5ºC) so it’s no surprise that the locals thought about building spas here many centuries
ago. The Romans rebuilt in their own style and today you’ll see some refurbished baths as
well as the Blue baths favoured by Alexandre Dumas and Pushkin. If you fancy a treatment
be aware that you’ll be ‘as a newborn’ (ie in the scud).
Rustaveli Avenue – We had Rabbie Burns, they had Shota Rustaveli and this wide
boulevard named in his honour will remind you of Paris. The tree-lined thoroughfare is one
of the main streets in the city and is very charming to wander down.
Tavisupleba Sq (Freedom Square) – At the South end of Rustaveli Avenue you’ll
find this central hub which you’ll no doubt pass through.You can’t do anything here other
than dodge the traffic and admire the golden statue of St. George and the dragon atop
the plinth (it replaced one of Lenin) and the City Hall building. It’s a good starting point to
explore the Old Town. Please use the interesting subway to cross the roads.
The Old Town – Sometimes the people you’re with are like the things you see in the
Old Town – ancient structures struggling to stay standing. The dilapidated buildings, winding
roads and ankle-breaking pavements all make this place an interesting part of the city to
explore. For a walking tour round the residential Old Town and on into the more ‘touristy’
area start at Freedom Sq head up G. Leonidze St, left at L. Beridze St and left again down L.
Asatiani St to Gorgasali Sq near the river.
Mtskheta – Half-an-hour’s drive out of town and a few Lari will take you to this
UNESCO World Heritage Site – Georgia’s ancient capital – where you’ll find the beautiful
Sveti-Tskhoveli Cathedral which apparently houses the robe of Jesus Christ. It’s also
the graveyard of Georgian kings including King Gorgasali, who founded Tbilisi. A short drive
will take you to Jvari Monastery which sits high on the hill and is built on the site which
pagans used for sacrifices. In the 4th century St Nino arrived to convert the pagans to the
Christian Orthodox faith and placed a cross here that could be seen for miles around.
Later the monastery was built. The view is a cracker as you can see the ancient capital as
well as the valley where the Aragvi and Mtkvari Rivers converge.You’ll need to arrange for
a driver to take you on this trip and wait for you (either a minibus or a taxi – see Top Tips).
Narikala Fortress and Mother Georgia – Every city has a heart-attack inducing
climb and this is Tbilisi’s, even though it’s only a few hundred yards up. If you opt for a taxi
to take you to the top check that it’s robust – some cars get halfway up before rolling right
back down! The 4th century Narikala Fortress stood firm against enemies for hundreds
of years. Time and an explosion of Russian munitions in the late 1800s got the better of
it but there are some superb views. Travel up some tiring stairs to get to the foot of the
giant structure of Mother Georgia for a different view. The statue holds in her right hand
a sword for her enemies and, in the left, a glass of wine for her friends. Better not stay on
the right side of her.
Vere Park (end of Rustaveli Avenue) – Locals recommend this park as the best
one to visit if you want to stay close to the city. Be warned to take extra care if you
venture outside the city centre to Vake Park – it has a reputation for muggings, even in
daylight.
Museums – A general word about museums here if we may. There are plenty which we’d
love to recommend, however at the time of writing, many were ‘closed for refurbishment’
with no mention of whether or when they’ll be open again. It’s not clear if they can’t afford
to open or whether the attractions are not up to standard and need upgrading. Either way,
some may be open in October and we won’t bother with prices – like everything else it’s
cheap in comparison to the UK. Museums include: The Georgian Art Museum (1
Gudiashvili Street) which does what it says on the tin; The Georgian State Museum
(3 Rustaveli Ave) is known for its gold artefacts and jewellery and the place where you
can see early human bones that are 1.7million years old; The Open-Air Museum of
Georgian Folk Architecture (near Vake Park) will give you a solid idea of life in this
great country as every region of Georgia is represented here.
One that was open was the Museum of Money (10 G. Leonidze St) – Banknotes
and coins from all over the world are displayed here, including the ‘Golden Fleece’ coins
specially made for the country. Hopefully the Scottish £5-note we left will still be there too.
Sharden Street – There you are, walking through dark, scruffy streets then low
and behold – this area appears. The restaurants, bars and cafés on this street and the
neighbouring Bamba (Cotton) Street would be at home in any hip and happening city.
There’s a great wee bakery down the stairs opposite the Old Tbilisi Museum.
Stadium Tours – There are no official tours of the Boris Paichadze National
Stadium or the Mikheil Meskhi Stadium home to FC Locomotive Tbilisi which
is situated in the Vake area of the city. However, they might be arranged through local
guides now if you get your skates on. We can recommend Manana Museridze who you can
contact on 00995 93 64 74 87 (cell phone) or via email: mananamuseridze@yahoo.com.
TOP TIPS
ESSENTIAL CHECKLIST
Note that there are multiple spellings of street names (for example, Sharden St and Chardin St are
one and the same). Maps are also quite inconsistent with streets appearing on one map and not
another however, we’ve tried our best to make our maps as accurate as possible.
The British Embassy is at GMT Plaza, 4 Freedom Square, Tbilisi, and is
open from 9am-1pm then 2pm-5pm Mon-Fri. Tel: (00995 32) 274747. E-mail:
TbilisiVisaEnquiries@fco.gov.uk. In the event of an emergency (death, serious
injury, arrest) which occurs outside of official embassy opening times please call
the embassy duty phone on 00995 99188687 which will be manned by an English
speaking member of staff at all times.
TRANSPORT Use taxis to get about the city. If travelling by rail never leave your things unattended and lock the door
from the inside. Fly on scheduled flights where possible as air safety is not always as rigorous as the UK.
Airport: The new airport servicing Tbilisi is just a few months old and is similar facilities-wise to those in western Europe.
As soon as you walk through passport control and customs you will come across an ideally situated money exchange bureau
where you can stock up on the local currency. Legal taxis are plentiful from the airport and the 15-minute journey to the city
centre should cost you about 25 Lari, the equivalent of about $15. We advise that you turn down offers from illegal private
hire car drivers as they often do not have any insurance and their vehicles are not that well maintained. Be extra vigilant of
your baggage in the airport as you may notice some unsavoury characters hanging around.
The Soviet era metro and the yellow buses – though cheap – might be more hassle than they are worth with Georgianonly tannoy announcements and signage. Locals often have a good belly laugh at lost tourists and if you use the metro you’ll
probably end up as the butt of the joke. The metro can also fall victim to power cuts leaving you trapped in a tunnel for a few
minutes at a time, however this form of travel may be an option on matchday (see Stadium Guide) as long as you note where
you’re going from and to. There are a number of mini-buses (marshrutkas) running regular routes which are cheap and
will carry more passengers but you’ll be hard-pushed to find even one that would have a chance of passing an MOT. There are
hundreds of taxis in Tbilisi which are undoubtedly the favoured transport of choice and you’ll have no trouble – or expense
– getting around the city this way. Between 3-5 Lari is more than enough of a fare to go from A to B. It is always advisable
to agree a price before your journey. We would recommend that you use common sense and if your gut instinct is saying
that the driver doesn’t seem to know where he’s going or the car is unsafe opt for another. Some tourists have learned the
hard way that it’s best not to flag down the nearest car and negotiate a price – their journey ended when they were robbed.
Make sure any taxi you take has a yellow taxi sign or clear taxi branding on it. A couple of taxi numbers are 00995 32 511
and 00995 32 09 – although the operators will probably only speak Russian or Georgian (09 also doubles up as a directory
enquiries service, ask for taxi service “511” or “09”). If you’re planning a day trip out of the city locate the flower market
where you’ll be able to barter with mini-bus drivers for a decent price. Please choose a vehicle that’s not a banger (which
is more difficult than it sounds). Alternatively, contact a tourist agency to arrange a driver for you or ask reception at your
hotel to do so.
TOILETS
It might be worth sticking a roll of soft bog roll in your luggage as the local stuff can be rather rough. There
are next to no public loos in the city so you’ll have to nip into a café/pub and buy something to use the facilities. It is an
offence to pee in the street, so don’t.
TIPPING/SHOPPING
It’s polite to leave a tip of around 10% for food if a charge has not already been added
to your bill. The Georgian Trade Centre (marked on the map) is a supermarket/mall where you can stock up on just about
anything.
SMOKING There is no law against smoking but please stub out if asked in bars or restaurants.
LANGUAGE The main language is Georgian and our hosts like you to try and speak some basic phrases, however,
Russian is widely spoken. The Georgian alphabet has 33 letters which are commonly used and words are written phonetically
(not that we’d know!). See Winning Words for a practical way to make yourself understood.
PHOTOS
Do not take pictures of military bases or power installations. Apart from being a bit of a saddo it could land
you in hot water with the authorities. Use common sense if photographing at churches or religious sights.
CUSTOMS/QUIRKS Georgians are, as a general rule, actually quite shy to begin with but do like practising their
English with you once you get chatting. They are very helpful, friendly and generous people. Whenever there’s a church in sight
they like to cross themselves, bow and repeat the process over and over – it’s quite disconcerting to see your taxi driver do
this when driving past a church. If you make friends with our hosts don’t be surprised if they greet you or say goodbye to you
with three kisses on the cheek. Many Georgians are quite conservative and very religious in nature and
an intentional flash of what’s under your kilt will be seen as extremely offensive and will result in
being sent to jail.
CROSSINGS
We know it sounds a bit patronising but really, take care when crossing the road (even when there’s a
green man) and use the underpasses where available. There is a dearth of pedestrian crossings and you may have to cross
roads a lane at a time.
STREETS Pay attention to where you’re going when walking around the city – there are plenty of potholes, lumps
and bumps and unfinished walkways which can easily trip you up or catch you out. The streetlamps must be on the lowest
wattage possible because it is very difficult to see after dark. If it rains take care as the pavements and underpass steps are
lethally slippy.
FOUNTAINS
Be aware that having a dip in the fountain at the Parliament building and the one
in Tavisupleba Square, both on Rustaveli Avenue, is a definite no-no and would land you in really
hot water after a splash in the cold stuff. It’s probably best to stay out of all fountains – no matter
how enticing they look.
Political situation Relations between Georgia and Russia have been
particularly strained since September 2006 when Georgia (very publicly) expelled
five Russian diplomats whom they accused of spying. The Russian response was to
suspend most transport links, postal services, trade and banking operations with
Georgia. The most recent blow to relations occurred in early August this year when
Georgian officials claimed a Russian jet launched a missile which they say landed
about 40 miles north west of Tbilisi. The Russians denied the accusations saying
that the Georgian side fabricated the whole incident for their own political gain.
Fortunately, the missile did not explode and there were no casualties. Later in August
reports surfaced alleging that Georgian forces fired at a plane – believed to be
Russian – after it violated Georgian airspace. This was dismissed by Russia. Relations
continue to be strained.
It doesn’t stop there. Within Georgia there are tensions and a threat of violence in
the breakaway regions – South Ossetia and Abkhazia, including the Upper Kodori
Valley . It’s highly unlikely that you were planning to go there anyway but the Foreign
and Commonwealth Office (FCO) advises that these are strictly no-go areas for us.
Given some of the ongoing tensions it’s a good idea to keep checking the latest FCO
travel advice on www.fco.gov.uk before setting off. Remember that if FCO advice
changes it could render your insurance invalid and you could put yourself in a lot
of danger.
Documentation
You do not need a visa to enter Georgia but you will, of
course, need a passport, valid for at least six months. Medical and travel insurance is
particularly important for this trip (see Health).
Health Don’t chance it with ‘last minute’ insurance policies. Make sure you’ve
read your policy and that it has comprehensive medical cover. Medical facilities
outside Tbilisi are not the best and you may need evacuated from an area – check
the policy covers medical evacuation.
Emergency numbers Fire brigade 01; Police 022; Ambulance 03.
Hospitals If you are involved in an accident you will most likely be taken to
the medical centre in the Saburtalo area (address: 29 Vasha Pshavela Ave). There is
no state system in Georgia like there is in the UK and any medical treatment needs
to be paid for so keep all paperwork for your insurance company. There is a dental
hospital on Davit Agmashenebeli Ave (towards the Boris Paichadze Stadium on the
right).
Pharmacies
There are plenty of pharmacies (aptiaki) though female fans
should be aware that sanitary items can be difficult to find so remember to bring an
adequate supply with you.
Safety and security
You will stick out like a sore thumb in Tbilisi
– more so perhaps than in any other Euro Qualifier destination. Despite Georgians
being friendly and welcoming to guests, like any other city, there will be a criminal
element who see football fans as legitimate targets. Suburbs like the Vake and
Saburtalo areas are not particularly safe and should be avoided.You should never
walk alone anywhere in the city after dark.
Outside of the capital take extra care and seriously consider hiring a local guide or
tour operator, especially in the Svaneti, Pankisi valley (north of Akhmeta) or Zugdidi
and Tsalenjika districts. Inform others of your travel plans.
Water Always drink bottled water, which is widely available, rather than water
from the tap.
Torches Daft as it may sound, add a torch to your essentials (one that’ll fit in
your sporran) as streets are very dark and, if a power cut occurs, you certainly don’t
want to be stuck in a dark alley.
Earthquakes Tbilisi can be prone to the odd shake or two given that it’s
in an area of seismic activity. The last earthquake in the capital occurred in April 2002.
TELEPHONES
Money and banking
CLIMATE & TIME The average temperature in October is around 13ºC. During the autumn months it can be
rainy and cloudy. In October Georgia will still be three hours ahead of the UK.
want a bath.
The public payphones are leftover from the Soviet era and look like they couldn’t possibly work – but
they do – however they are notoriously unreliable when calling abroad. To dial the UK dial 8, wait for the second tone, dial 10
then 0044 and the number minus the first zero. To call Tbilisi from the UK dial 00995 32 then a six digit number. Check with
your mobile phone provider that it will work in Tbilisi. Sim cards can be bought either from official mobile phone shops, like
Geocell, Beeline or some souvenir shops on Rustaveli Avenue. Credit for Georgian phones can be purchased from kiosks. We
recommend using Tbilisi’s central post office located on Republic Square where you can purchase phone cards for telephones
inside the post office.
ELECTRICITY The supply can be unreliable, hence numerous mentions throughout this guide.Take a two-pin
European adaptor with you if you want to use electronic equipment.
DISABLED TRAVELLERS Tbilisi isn’t the kindest to the disabled traveller.The pavements, even on the main
roads, are difficult to negotiate for those with disabilities.
STREET SIGNS The fact that Tbilisi is quite confusing is precisely its charm, and so what if you can’t work out where
the heck you are? Some street signs are in Russian, some in Georgian, some in English, mostly with three different spellings.
We’ve kept our maps in English so that you can at least say where you want to go.
Don’t carry large amounts of cash and be aware
that traveller’s cheques are more hassle than they’re worth as they’re not widely
accepted. Don’t take it as read that credit cards will be accepted either, though more
and more places are accepting this method of payment. ATMs can be found in Tbilisi
but be extra careful withdrawing money as thieves sometimes watch machines. Try
to use ATM’s in well-lit areas. Banks are generally open between 9.30am-5.30pm with
a break for lunch.
Sink plugs
Most hotels don’t have such a thing so devise your own if you
Currency The Georgian currency is the Lari (notes) which come in
denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200.You get 100 Tetris to every Lari and
coins come in 1, 5, 10, 20, 50. Prices are often written in American Dollars.You may
have a problem changing Scottish banknotes so American Dollars may be the best
currency to bring. There are many exchange booths located in hotels, streets and
even shoe shops!
Left luggage
leave it in your hotel.
We advise that you either keep your luggage with you or
WINNING WORDS
NUMBERS
FOOTBALL/CONVERSATION
1 = erti [‘er-tee]
2 = ori [‘o-ree]
3 = sami [‘sa-mee]
4 = otkhi [‘ot-khee]
5 = khuti [‘khu-tee]
6 = eqvsi [ekvsee]
7 = shvidi [shvee-dee]
8 = rva [rvah]
9 = tskhra [tskhrah]
10 = ati [ati]
20 = otsi [‘otsee]
30 = otsdaati [otsdaa-tee]
40 = ormotsi [or’-motsee]
50 = ormotsdaati [ormotsdaa-tee]
100 = asi [‘asi]
Who is your favourite player? = vin aris tqveni
sakvareli pekhburteli? [‘veen ‘aris tkve-neeh sak-vare-‘leeh pekh-boor-‘telee?]
Three or four Georgians have played football in
Scotland = sami tu otkhi qartveli tamashobda
shotlandiashi [sa’-mee tu ot-khee kar-tve-‘lee ta-ma‘shob-da shot-lan-deeh-‘asheeh]
Have you ever been to Scotland? = odesme tu
kopilkhart shotlandiashi? [odes-‘meh tu ko-peel‘khart shot-lan-deeh-‘asheeh]
We are having a good time = kargh dros vatarebt
[‘kargh ‘dros vah-tah-rebt]
Well done = karghia [‘kar-ghee-ah]
Unlucky = ar ghaumartla [ar’ ga-oo-‘mar-tlah]
I am drunk, please let me into my hotel room! =
nasvami var, ghtkhovt, chems otakhshi
amikvanet! [nas-va-‘meeh ‘var, ght-‘khovt, ‘tchems
o-takh-‘shee a-‘meek-vah-net]
I’m sorry = ukatsravad / bodishi [oo-kats-rah-‘vad
/ bo-dee’sheeh]
My mate is a bit crazy, but he’s harmless = chemi
meghobari tsotas aprens, maghram is zians
ar moghakenebt [tche-‘meeh me-gho-‘bareeh ‘tso-tas
ap-‘rens, magh-‘ram is zee-‘ans ar mogha-‘kenebt]
The wind is really blowing up my kilt = qari kelts
qvesh miberavs [‘qa-ree ‘kelts ‘kvesh meeh-be-‘ravs]
You can fair taste the strength of this beer! = ghausinje
ghemo am luds! [gha-ooseen-‘dje ghe-‘moh ‘am loods]
Please teach me a Georgian song = qartuli simghera
mastsavle, tu sheidzleba [kar-too-‘lee seem-‘gherah mas-tsav-leh, tu she-eedzlbe-bah]
Ever heard of The Proclaimers? = odesme ghsmeniat
jghup prokleimersebze? [odes-‘me ghsme-‘nee-at
djghoop prok-le-eeme-‘rebze
Can you play our CD please? = chveni diski
daukarit, tu sheidzleba [tchve-‘neeh dees-‘keeh
da-ooka-reet, tu she-eedzlbe-bah]
Long live Scotland = shotlandias ghaumardjos!
[‘shot-lan-dee-as gha-oomar-‘djos]
Long live Georgia = saqartvelos ghaumardjos!
[sa-kar-tve-los gha-oomar-‘djos]
Georgia’s on my mind = saqartvelo chems
piqrebshia [sa-kar-tve-lo ‘tchems peek-reb-shee-ah]
PLEASANTRIES
Hello = salami / ghamarjoba [‘salamee / ghamardjobah]
Goodbye = nakhvamdis [nakh-vam-dees]
Please = ghetakva / ghtkhov [‘ghe-tak-vah /
ghtkho’v]
Thank you = madloba [‘madlobah]
Cheers = ghaghimarjos [gau-mar-joos]
Yes = diakh / ki [‘diakh / ki’]
No = ara [‘ara]
Excuse me = ukacravad / bodishi [‘ukatsravahd /
‘bodishi]
Do you speak English? = inghlisurad saubrobt?
[‘eenghlisurahd sah’ubrobt]
Nice to meet you = sasiamovnoa tkveni
ghatsnoba [‘sasiamov-noah tkve’ni ‘gatsnobah]
Do you want to join us? = ghsurt shemoghviertdet?
[ghsu’rt she-mog-vee-ert-‘det]
PRACTICAL
Where is the… … (...) = sad aris [‘sad aris]
• police station = politsiis ghankopileba [‘po-leetsee-ees ghan-ko-‘pilebah]
• football stadium = sapekhburto moedani /
stadioni [sa-pekh-‘burtoh moe-daneeh]
• bus station = avtosadgomi [ avto-sadghomeeh]
• toilet = sapirparesho [sa-pir-pareshoh] / tualeti
[too-ale-‘tee]
• hospital = saavadmkopo [saa-vadmko-‘po]
• town centre = qalaqis tsentri [kalakees tsen’-tree]
left / right / straight ahead / back = martskhniv [
mar-‘tskhneev] / marjvniv [mar-djvneev] / pirdapir
[peer-da-‘peer] / ukan [ook-‘an]
How do you telephone the UK? = roghor davreko
did britanetshi? [ro-‘ghor dav-rekog did brita-net’sheeh]
How long will it take us to get to the stadium from here?
= ramden khanshi mival stadionamde? [ramden khan-shee’ mee-val stadee-on-amde?]
How much? = ramdeni moghartvat? [ram-de-‘nee
mo-ghar-‘tvaht]
Four beers please = otkhi ludi, ghetakva [ot-khee
loo-deeh, ghe-tak-vah]
Can I have a whisky please? = viski momartvit viski,
tu sheidzleba [vee-‘skee mo-mart-veet, vee-‘skee, tu
she-‘eedzle-bah]
I am Scottish = me shotlandieli var [meh shotlandee-elee vahr]
What would you recommend to eat? drink? = ras
mirchevt rom mivirtva? Davlio? [‘ras meer-chevt
‘rom mee-veertvah? davee-‘o?]
Good = karghi [‘kargeeh]
Bad = tsudi [tsoo-deeh]
Small = patara [patarah]
Large = didi [didi]
SIGNS
Exit = gasasvleli
Gate = gasasvleli
Toilet = sapirparesho / tualeti
Male = kaci
Female = qali
Bus Station = avtosadguri
Departure = gamgzavreba
Stadium = stadioni
Taxi = taqsi
Open = riaa
Close = daketilia
Push = miaweqit
Pull = gamoaret
Stop = gacereba