CP Intro and Basic Kit - Great War Association

Transcription

The Great War Association
Central Powers Handbook:
German Troops,
Basic Impression
Beta 1.99
Central Powers Handbook — Great War Association
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German Soldier. It is also my hope to make this
Handbuch a good reference for our “veteran”
reenactors to help them too.
All copyrights are retained by the original holder and
no rights are lost. This Handbuch is a not-for-profit
publication for the betterment of the Great War
Association, along with the Great War reenacting
hobby as a whole. All rights under the Digital
Millennium Copyright Act are in force.
Chefredaktur................................ Rudolf Weiß
Korrekturlesen:............................ Eric Zienta
...................................................... Marcus Strehl
...................................................... Chris Schneider
Please note, there are a few notes for things to add
and also a few formatting things. Some text is
“greyed-out”—meaning it needs to be re-written—just
a note on that so you didn’t think it was in error. Yes,
we know, sometimes we have repeated things in
sections... oh well. Maybe it’s important, maybe it will
get fixed in a future edit.
You might see some formatting errors, as this
document was brought from Adobe InDesign, to MS
Word, a much more primitive program, but one that is
also much more common to our team. Again, as we
say, bear with us and use this in German-ly
comradeship.
Credits to come. We also will be crediting photos, just
not time yet. And YES, we know, some are form
books... we are using them under the Digital
Millenium Copyright Act in that we ar eNOT making
a profit. Again, we will duly credit them :-)
Vorwort
This Handbuch has been put together to help a new
Rekrut in the GWA get properly outfitted and to help
him become an integral part of our organization. This
book is also intended as a guide and reference for all
unit members. As such, the production of this
Handbuch is an on-going project. All members of the
Central Powers are encouraged to help in the research
and production of this guide. My goal is that this
manual has always been to make it easier for the new
Rekrut to get properly outfitted and to become a
integral part of the unit. Think of it as coming from a
“replacement depot.” This Handbuch will teach you
the things you’ll need to “get up to speed” as a
Please don’t think we will expect you to know all this
information your first time out (or even second or third).
This info will take some time for you to absorb, and
for much of it, you must have attended an event for it
to make sense. Still, print it out, read it over every
once in awhile and use it as a reference — keep it in
the bathroom if need be, (it is good bathroom reading) but
do keep at it.
For their knowledge and help in putting this manual
together, a hearty DANKE SCHÖN! is given to the
following:
 Herrn Chris Schneider—Member of Füs.Rgt. 73 his
proofreading and many corrections.
 Herrn Marcus Strehl—member of German DSM for
his help, clarifications and photos.
 Herrn Manuel Wöller—member of German DSM for
his help, clarifications and photos.
 Herrn Glen Dresbeck—for his great article The
First-Person Impression, along with his tireless
work for the hobby.
 Herrn Doug Kingdom—member of J.R. 124, mentor,
a true brother and more! Many a “discussion”
there, but in the end, always worth it! Vielen Dank
Papi!
 Herrn Dr. Donald Crosby—For making his
translations and to make the German commo
section accurate and also for making me a better
“German.”
 Herrn Tony Schnurr of Der Kaiser’s Bunker
<www.kaisersbunker.com> for allowing us to use
many wonderful and useful photographs from his
website. Herrn Schnurr’s kind help has really
furthered this Handbuch!
 Herrn Erich Tobey of the old J.R. 120—For allowing
me to use much of his work which formed the core
and evolved, among other things, into the current
“3-M’s System,” “Awards” section and „Der
Mann unter dem Stahlhelm“.
 Herrn Steve Fischer—For his great articles on the
German Army. Herrn Fischer is another dedicated
student of the Kaiserlich Heer.
 Herrn Rick Keller of Great War Militaria—For his
help and advice about things and also for
answering the questions of almost ALL new Great
War reenactors everywhere. Great War reenacting
would not be anywhere near where it is today
without Herrn Keller’s help and hard work.
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The following individuals helped greatly with other
parts or previous editions of this manual, much of
which is contained herein:

Louis Brown

Randall Chapmann

Jef “Fontanak” Fontana t

Geoff Giglierano

Mike Gonzales

Mark Graef

Frank James

Andreas Jödecke

Craig “Deks” Nordquist

Karl-Heinz Rubasch

Dave Stone
These people above are among the most
knowledgeable I know—ready to help anyone. Again, I
must thank them!
If you’re able to describe something better; a piece of
equipment or uniform part, etc., please do so and
send it in! Also any good, clean line-drawings of
uniforms, equipment or neat clip-art would be most
appreciated! And of course, now that we’ve moved into
the “digital age” nice colour photos of real kit are also
welcomed and appreciated!
Lastly, remember, this manual is meant to help all of
us in our quest to find the real Frontsoldat—it’s not
about “us” being better than “them.” It’s about us
trying to do it right!
Thank you
Marsh Wise
Central Powers Representative 27.XI.2013
Comments? rudiweiss@ir23.org
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result in the new guy spending a LOT of money on
stuff he can’t use or that is incorrect. We hope to help
him avoid that.
Who For
This book, while written for newer members of the
Central Powers, is also meant to help those “veterans”
who have been doing this for a while.
Sections and Appendices
This is basically an Introduction and the basic kit one
wears. We have a second section called “The
Complete Soldat” which will cover other, more
advanced options. “Der Mann” is a section covering
the German man himself... We have many articles on
the German soldier and his life—as many as you wish
to read. We have a drill manual underway and this
will be available soon. With this Handbuch and its
appendices, you will gain the knowledge as if you had
been through the German Rekrut Depot (or at least that’s
our goal).
Definitions
At the end of this, we will be attaching a list of
definitions to help explain some of the terms we use.
Vendors
Introduction
Greetings and Welcome!
You are looking at the Great War association’s
Handbuch for Central Powers Troops: German
Troops. The Austrian Handbuch will come later.
This document will attempt to show what the
uniforms and kit really look like and eventually, will
have a cross reference to the GWA Authenticity
regulations.
As with anything of this sort, this is a living document
that will likely change as we find newer and better
information. Please take it for what it is and if you
find something you think is in error, please let us
know.
The Germans
This Handbuch came out of a need to help new people
build their impression, not only accurately, but also
correctly. The Germans were different than the
American Army of today, or even the early 20th
Century. Sadly, there is not much guidance, other
than some unit’s handbooks and manuals... Often the
new guy is left to the mercy of vendors and this can
Check with your unit as to what vendors they allow
and use. You may also visit the Reenactor’s
Consumer Guide at:
http://www.reenactorconsumer.com/
to check vendor feedback. And if you have a great
experience with a vendor, please leave them
feedback—conversely, if your experience was not so
pleasant, you should share that with your fellows.
A note on the German military: Please understand
that the German Army did things differently than the
U. S. military does them. The German Army was just
not that “uniform” in the way we understand the
term. Different uniforms, use of civilian items such as
shirts, etc. all gave the Kaiser’s Army a decidedly ununiform look, especially after the first few months of
the war.
After the war started, ca. 1915 or so, there were
shortages of uniforms (along with the new models being
issued) and gear. “Ersatz” items began to be seen and
this is why one can see instances of three different
patterns of field jackets being worn in a unit at the
same time of the war.
Comparing the Germans to the Americans is like
comparing apples and oranges; just remember this
and you’ll be okay.
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Welcome to World War One…
The Great War
by Rick Keller, Great War Militaria
W
elcome to the fascinating era known as The
Great War. If your interests extend into the
re-creation of this period in our history, we can
assure you that you will not be disappointed. WWI
offers a unique and exciting type of “recreation” that
compares to no other, in fact, all other forms of
reenacting will seem dull after a weekend “in the
trenches.”
World War I (or the “Great War” as it was called by those who
saw war at its unbelievable worst. Death
was a constant companion stalking through the
trenches, as he never had before. Life for the soldiers
took on new horrors, the kind that only trench
warfare can produce. There was never anything like it
before and there will never be anything like it again—
WWI stands alone in history as man’s greatest
cruelty to his fellow man—each day growing to new
heights of madness.
fought in it)
Gains were measured in yards, at a cost of lives that
to this day is still unresolved. Casualties were
rounded-off to the hundreds of thousands as men were
swallowed up in the hell of trench warfare. A
generation of men was lost forever, and in certain
towns throughout England and France, the flower of
youthful manhood was entirely erased, slaughtered
in rows by the latest German weapon, the Maxim
machinegun. Those men who weren’t killed on the
battlefield, had their lives irretrievably shattered.
Places like Verdun and the Somme taught a need for
new tactics, as both sides settled down to the
stalemate of trench warfare. The soldiers experienced
new and unheard-of horrors such poison gas and
week-long artillery bombardments—not to mention
the “normal” horrors of war such as rats, mud,
disease, constant terror, and mutilation beyond
comprehension, all of which left an impression that
few can relate to in our modern “civilized” world.
Now Forgotten
Ask
most
students today
about the First
World War and
they will only
give
you
a
blank
stare.
Very
few
Americans
can
even
tell
you
the years
during
which
WWI was
fought;
let alone
what the
November 11th holiday means! The veterans of the
Great War are almost all gone now and the few of us
who had the honor of knowing them, have been left
with a curiosity and reverence toward those soldiers
which has demanded a more in-depth exploration into
“their” world. What was it like to live and fight in the
trenches? Was it really THAT bad? Quite simply,
YES—IT WAS!
The Great War Today
The accurate recreation of such an era of warfare has
been no simple task, but on small battlefields around
the country (around the world, in fact) reenactors have
created the closest thing possible. These battlefields
have trenches, bunkers and yes, real barbed wire.
There are grenades and working mortars, as well as
machine guns and full-scale over-the-top assaults.
Nighttime is punctuated by trench raids carried out
under the eerie light of flares and star shells. In the
adjacent trench bay, there is the sound of a hand-tohand struggle as each side battles for possession of
the trench, with the victor usually being driven back
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by a reorganized counter attack. In “no-man’s-land,”
the quiet of a shell hole is interrupted by a form in the
dark, which could be an
enemy or it could be a
friend—thinking it is
not the enemy can
result in a grenade in
your lap. After the
fight, you scurry
back to your
trenches,
but
even this can
put you into a
nasty barbed
wire
part in an all-out assault on the enemy’s line, or face
the thrill of repelling a mass of men swarming over
your barbed wire into your trenches. Experience being
part of a raiding party and taking part of the enemy’s
trench. Or, if you’re careless, you might have your
throat cut by a silent raider while strolling through
your own rear lines. You can be a machine-gunner, a
mortar man, or a grunt. It is all up to you and your
involvement in the hobby—and to your dedication to a
particular impression. One thing we can promise is
that you will be totally exhausted, as you never have
before—by the end of the event, you will find muscles
in your body that you never knew were there. You will
also acquire a new outlook on the term “recreation” as
opposed to reenactment.”
Some Serious Stuff
entanglement if you are unaware of the “safe” paths
or draw a hail of fire for having forgotten the
“password.” You tumble back into the safety of your
own lines and collapse on the muddy firing step to try
and get a gulp of air, catch your breath and then a
long drink of water. Hopefully, the enemy won’t drop
a mortar shell on your head tonight, or decide to gas
your line—thus forcing you to don your stuffy and
uncomfortable gas mask that is also impossible to
even see out of, let alone fight in it.
If this madness appeals to your curiosity then you
might want to consider reenacting the Great War. It
is all there for your enjoyment, and what you get out
of it is determined by what you put into it. Often, you
can live in a bunker for days without a bath or get
drenched to the skin, muddy all over, and still fight to
hold or retake a section of the line during a downpour.
You will throw grenades into an enemy trench, take
World War I “recreations” are by no means in its
infancy. This (2013) is WWI reenacting’s 34th year.
Time will take care of our needs, and more sites have
sprung up around the country, meanwhile we work
with what we have and still have fun! Much has been
gained over a long continuous uphill struggle with the
efforts of many very dedicated individuals who have
NEVER received (nor asked) for any due credit. We
urge you to add your skills to the hobby if you decide
to participate. If you can contribute, then please do
so. If you just want to reenact, then be a professional
soldier and conduct yourself with pride in whatever
uniform you wear. Be honest, courteous, cooperative
and OBEY the rules. Be especially conscious of the
fact that you CAN injure someone with a rifle blank
or grenade and ALWAYS bear that fact in mind—the
dangers of the hobby are demonstrated at the safety
meetings held before each event. All exploding devices
are demonstrated. The test for grenades is simple:
You stand over the device and set it off between your
feet (The Highlanders hate this test!). All explosives must be
approved and accepted by the majority and the
majority always rules. In this manner, the majority
creates the event and you as an individual make the
decision to participate in that event. It is a
volunteer’s war, and in this hobby, that term takes
on a meaning as never before, because you are
responsible for the safety of everyone around you!
The Origins of Great War Reenacting
The question has been asked MANY times. “Where
did all of this start?” The Great War reenacting idea
was born in a Civil War environment and slowly
evolved through determination to reconstruct the
positively unique and incomparable life of a World
War I soldier in the trenches. The first time the Civil
War reenactors saw a U.S. WWI uniform was at a
New Market battle in about 1975 or 1976. For rather
deceitful, dishonest and underhanded political
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reasons, the “authentics” were banned from the
battle, so they formed a “parade” to march down and
watch from the sidelines. At that time I was the First
Sergeant of “Sherman’s Bummers,” and had put my
WWI Doughboy kit in the car to show someone. Well,
I ended up putting on the outfit and carrying the U.S.
Flag that led the procession. WWI was born! Enough
people showed interest in doing something, that Paul
Smith, through John Lyle at Mt. Saint Mary’s
College, obtained a small section of land, on which
they dug same very crude trenches, and had the first
battle on Sept 22-24, 1978. There were about 40
Doughboys and 6-8 Germans (the original J.R.63 under Joe
Covais and Bill Combs). Alas, the Allies woefully walked
all over the Germans, and a number of the Allies
decided to do German to help even up the odds for the
next year.
Garde Soldat at the „Ausmarsch“ —notice the flowers
in his tunic, Gewehr and Pickelhaube.
Foto aus des Max Stiebritz Sammelung
The following year, 1979, showed that with
proportionate sides, the reenactors could have a
genuine ball! Few were there to enjoy “Root Hog Hill”
and the assaults upon its bleak summit and it was
here that the art of stick grenade throwing was
perfected! After those events, these men were all
determined to make WWI into a real hobby! I
personally bought an MG 08/15 to add realism and
even the odds (although we were still greatly outnumbered by
the Americans) and I struggled for several years to get
the gun operational with blanks. Remember that this
was before anything was available or being
reproduced. The Allies were flooded with recruits, as
US stuff was cheap and readily available, but the
Germans, oh but we had to struggle to obtain
anything. Some of us even carried and threw original
stick grenades while we played around with harmless
copies that would explode but not hurt anyone.
Danger?!
Does all this mean you will get hurt? NO, but you
need to remember that this isn’t sitting in your
armchair, watching safe television… it is living
history. The WWI “living battlefield” concept is based
upon the participant’s willingness to forgo selfish
motives and accept what the majority wants. Changes
can be made through proper legislation, but the
majority still rules. This is an event where mortar
shells can fall on your head, so you MUST always
wear your helmet! The event is as REAL as possible
and yet as safe as we can make it. Most SPORTS are
more dangerous than our events, but the bottom
line is that you, and you alone, are responsible
for your actions at all times. If you cannot be an
honorable participant and accept that responsibility,
then do not do World War I. If you have any fear of
getting cut with barbed wire, trampled-on, bombed,
scorched, scraped, cut, or otherwise visited by minor
injuries, then DO NOT DO THE EVENT! As in the
real thing, your survival will be determined by your
ability to avoid such injuries. You will be totally
responsible for what happens to you, and what you do
to someone else! All of this aside, you will soon become
a “veteran” and learn to avoid these hazards while
watching for grenades and bombs.
If you are interested and want an opportunity to relive this most harrowing time in history, then join us!
However, PLEASE, accept the event for what it is
and ADAPT yourself to it—do not expect WWI to
change for you. Learn from experience, and listen to
your NCOs. And please remember this: WWI IS NOT
FOR KIDS! (despite what your wife or girlfriend calls you).
WWI is also not a “baby-sitting” service—you must be
18 years old to participate in combat events.
Equipment
A caution to the new reenactor: you will trash
equipment, so do not use original uniforms and
equipment unless there is no repro item available (and
it fast becoming true that almost everything is being reproed), in
fact all participants are urged to use reproductions
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where possible. Falling in trenches,
sliding down embankments, charging
over barbed wire, etc. does wonders for
your gear. DO NOT TRASH
ORIGINAL STUFF as your comrades
will frown on that. You will find many
serious students of WWI in the
trenches, and in between battles, you
will have an opportunity to get an
education
beyond
your
wildest
dreams. We have doctors, lawyers,
professors, students, and even the
professionally unemployed—in fact,
we have people from every walk of life
and each one offers knowledge on
different subjects. We all become one
in the trenches and endeavor to relive
an experience that ONLY Great War
can give. After dark, the only missing
elements are the real shells and
bullets! Imagine the surprise when an
SE-5 Biplane came out of the fog to
strafe the Germans! The men on the
ground thought they were in the
Twilight Zone, as no one knew in
advance of the preparations for the
plane. It was a sight that few will
forget, and was most certainly
comparable to what the real doughboy
felt when he saw his first plane!
If you are an HONEST and SERIOUS
student of history, or just a pure
reenactment buff, and wish to
CONTRIBUTE to the hobby by being
a part of it, then join us. Do not just
“take”
from
the
Hobby,
but
“contribute,” even if it is only as a
GOOD SOLDIER. Also, this is not a
Stoßtruppen artwork from Osprey’s “The German Army 1914-19”
spectator sport. We do not invite the
public to our “combat” events—it is
for us! We feel that the type of people
event as “putting 10 Civil War reenactments into one
we want will find us—sooner-or-later! We think of
night.” It is a serious event, and you MUST enter into
ourselves as a small fraternity where we can trust any
it with full knowledge that you volunteered. For this
“comrade” regardless of his uniform. The honor
reason, you cannot show up and just participate by
system prevails in this hobby—to break trust with the
yourself. You must be sponsored by a UNIT who will
system by stealing is the MOST serious crime on the
vouch for your integrity and basic skills for taking
field—it will be dealt with VERY SEVERELY.
part in the event. The interest in this hobby is
growing rapidly. Each new soldier, if properly
A Responsibility
motivated, brings to the hobby a personal quality that
can only be shared and appreciated in like company,
We, as participants, take on a very serious
thus, our hobby is a sharing of common interests.
responsibility NOT to injure anyone in our play.
Again, be sincere when contacting these people.
Be careful, be alert, and be responsible.
Reenacting the Great War I makes Civil War look like
With all this said, Welcome Kamerad!
child’s play and there is no comparison anywhere in
the WORLD! One new participant described his first
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centered around mock combat; the main purpose of
living history is education.
Historical accuracy and safety are indeed the most
important aspects of modern reenacting. The majority
of today’s participants have a devout interest in the
historical periods which they portray, and they work
hard to recreate soldiers of yesterday as realistically
as possible. To re-create these soldiers correctly
requires diligence and a lot of research. Safety is
especially vital since various pyrotechnic devices are
used to simulate the weapons of an actual battle.
Reenacting and the
3-M’s System
M
ilitary reenacting is sort of an “interactive
history lesson” for spectators and participants
alike. Unlike history books or documentary
films, reenacting attempts to provide first-hand, live
experiences with a wide variety of military
equipment, of the monotony of camp and garrison,
and the tragedy and violence of combat.
So, if you’ve ever wondered about the life of of a
soldier in the Great War, come out with us and see a
reenactment or living history event for yourself.
Our Main Activities
As members of a Living History group, we have two
main activities: attending events and doing research.
The events we participate in range from static
educational
displays
to
full-fledged
battle
reenactments complete with trenches and a
battlefield. Our research efforts include not only
determining the correct uniform, equipment, and
personal effects, but also in gathering as
much oral history as possible from all
sources.
The 3-M’s
To do as accurate a presentation as
possible, we have a rather simple
philosophy: There are three main facets to
a historical impression, and they all are of
equal importance: Man, Minutia, and
Methods—the “big three,” or the “3-M’s.”
When we get too far advanced in one area,
we try to stop and improve on one of the
other two.
Reenacting is Not a Recent Innovation
Revolutionary War reenactments were staged in
commemoration of the U.S. Centennial in 1876 and
numerous Civil War reenactments were staged for
(and in some cases, by...) veterans around the turn of the
century. The only major change in the philosophy of
reenacting over this course of time has been the shift
in emphasis away from spectacle and towards
historical accuracy. This new emphasis was also the
catalyst for the development of “Living History.”
Unlike reenactments, living history programs are not
 Man refers to the person inside the
uniform—without knowing something
about the German man, you can’t really
portray a convincing German Soldier. In
this category, we include things like
personal appearance, language, and
mannerisms.
 Minutia is all the “stuff” related to the soldier:
uniforms, equipment, personal effects. A very
obvious and therefore important aspect,but by no
means any more important than either of the
other two.
 Methods are the ways in which the Man uses
his Minutia. This includes drill, combat
techniques, camp chores, unit organization, etc..
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Character of
the German Army
by Steve Fischer
2./J.R.111
A
s reenactors, we present an
impression of what we believe the
German Soldat to have been. We
spend time, and lots of money, buying
our uniforms, weapons, and all the
assorted pieces of kit.
As reenactors portraying a foreign,
non-English speaking people it is
quite difficult for us to even get
information on the character of the
German Army and the men we are
trying to portray. Civil War reenactors
are blessed with an abundance of
sources such as The life of Billy
Yank, or Life of Johnny Reb. We
have no such sources; therefore it is my hope that the
following observations, derived from research, will be
of some use in filling the gap. A list of relevant
reading material will follow, and although it may be
difficult to obtain many of the books, they are well
worth it. One thing worth remembering is that most
stereotypes of the German Army aren’t just
exaggerated, they are patently false.
First, German society was (and still is) very formal
compared to that in America. The familiar form of
address „Du“ (you) was only used among close friends
(usually only one or two people qualified as “close”), soldiers,
students, young people, and to animals. They
addressed each other as „Sie“ (you), while they
addressed soldiers in the informal „Du“. Last names
were used almost exclusively among soldiers, the first
name was only used in addressing one’s closest
Kamerad (usually only one or two men—not your entire
Gruppe).
A Training Ground for Good Citizens
The Army in Wilhelmine Germany held a central
position; the victory over France in 1871 had
enormously raised the prestige of the Army. Universal
conscription existed, but in fact only about half those
eligible to serve actually did so. The Army was used as
a kind of “training ground” for good citizens; its
conservative values were constantly reinforced.
Soldiers were taught the value of Christianity and
capitalism; they also learned to despise politicians and
businessmen.
German society was very diverse, with many different
social groups or classes competing, but none clearly
dominated. Officers from the Prussian states in
eastern Germany were drawn largely from the
aristocratic Junker class of small land holders. In the
southwestern portion of the country, particularly in
Bavaria and Württemberg, over half the officers were
drawn from the upper middle class. NCOs were
nearly always from the educated middle or lower
middle class.
Three Social Groups
The German military could be divided into
three social groups: Mannschaften (enlisted men
including Gefreiters), Unteroffiziere (NCO’s, who
often aped officers, in dress and manner), and
Offiziere (officers). Senior NCO’s, Vizefeldwebel
(vice sergeant major), and Feldwebel (sergeant
major) were authorized to wear an officer’s
Portepee (sword knot).
True Professionals
Although some NCOs no doubt were sadists,
(such as the character Himmelstoß in All Quiet on the
Western Front), the vast majority were
competent professional soldiers. Brutality
toward enlisted men was generally not
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common. The army experience was to most men (prior
a positive experience to be looked
back upon with fondness. Military life instilled a bond
of Kameradschaft (comradeship) among the men.
German officers were highly trained and the men
looked upon them for leadership. The “fragging” of
officers and NCOs believed to be so common in the
U.S. Army during the Vietnam conflict, was almost
unknown; equally rare was an insubordinate attitude
among soldiers.
to the war anyway)
The German army in 1914 was probably the best
trained and disciplined army in Europe, not
withstanding claims to that title by the British.
During the German soldier’s two years of service he
obtained a level of training which took the
professional British army five years to reach. During
the war this level of quality declined, but up until
1918 the army still maintained a higher standard of
discipline and training than the British. Among the
first things the German soldier was expected to learn
during training was the memorization of ranks,
orders, responsibilities, and weapons nomenclature.
In most armies, close order drill is used to instill
discipline in the men; the German army used this
method to a limited extent prior to the
war but largely abandoned it during
the war. Instead, they relied on
the self discipline of the
soldier himself, calling on his
sense
of
honor.
General
Ludendorff “despised and regarded
as ineffective any attempt to achieve
social unity by force and drill.”
German training focused on the
practical aspects of drill, and
encouraged men to utilize their own
initiative.
In the British army, the NCO has often
been called the “backbone of the
army” and there is considerable
truth in that statement. This was
not true in the German army,
although the German NCO exhibited considerable
professionalism and was highly trained in his duties.
Charges of brutality leveled against German NCOs
stem from the pressure they were placed under to get
a good report on their abilities. A good report would
allow them to retire to the civil service after twelve
years. Indeed, because of this pressure, the suicide
rate among German NCOs was very high.
A Caste in Itself
The German Officer Corps was a caste in itself in
German society. During the war it consistently
refused to allow officers to be commissioned who
were thought to be unsuitable in social class or
political outlook. German officers, like their
soldiers, had a very high degree of training and
professional competence, junior officers often
commanded units which would be commanded by
majors in the British army. The German doctrine of
Storm Troop tactics was developed by a captain in
the German army, something unheard of in the
British army. Also of note is the fact that a German
Colonel, Fritz v.Loßberg, was responsible for
developing the defense in depth doctrine. German
officers were expected to be able to perform the
duties of the next rank over them; this was a
regular feature of their training. Another feature of
German training was the considerable reliance
placed on junior officers in the performance of their
assigned mission. The method used by the officers
to complete their assigned task was left at their own
discretion. They were encouraged to use their own
initiative and take advantages of opportunities on
the battlefield. This made the German command
structure
more
responsive
to
battlefield
developments than the French, British or American
structures.
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Some Observations on German
Soldiers Themselves
German soldiers were not expected to
maintain their kit in the same immaculate
condition expected in the British army—but
neither were they sloppy, wandering around
with everything unbuttoned—LOOK at the
pictures. German soldiers were expected to
keep their weapons in good condition, free
from dirt and rust. They always carried
their gas masks everywhere they went
when near the front lines. Out of the line,
the uniform was kept brushed, rips and
tears were mended. Leather gear was kept
clean and oiled. In general a good
appearance was maintained at all times
without going to the extreme of keeping
every button done up and polished. One
thing you’ll notice though, it is rare to see a
photo of German Soldaten with his collar
undone. Not to say it wasn’t done, just not
that common—a different society.
When not on duty…
Pastimes for the soldiers included playing
Skat, a card game for three players which
has a complicated scoring system that only
a German would love. In rear areas, the
army established canteens which were
called a Soldatenheim and which served
beer and provided entertainments for the
soldiers of various kinds, similar to our
USO. Another entertainment was Army-run
brothels which were regularly inspected by
the German Medical Corps.
Sources (yes, they’re links):
 In the Line, 1914-1918.
by Georg Bucher (Translated by Norman Gullick);
Jonathan Cape: London, 1932
 The German Officer Corps 1890-1914
by Martin Kitchen; Clarion Press: Oxford, 1968
 Imperial German Army Handbook 1914-1918.
by David Nash; Ian Allan: London, 1980.
 Doctrine and Dogma:
German and British Infantry Tactics in the First World War.
by Martin Samuels; Greenwood Press: Westport, 1992.
 Fighting Power.
by Martin Van Crevald; Greenwood Press: Westport, 1982.
 A Surgeons Story.
by Stephen K. Westmann; William Kimber: London, 1968.
(Westmann also wrote A Surgeon with the Kaiser’s Army)
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A Few Basics about the
Imperial German Army
by Stefan Fischer, J.R. 111
T
he idea of Germany as this big national
monolith is kind of a misnomer, because in 1914,
Germany as a single entity really didn’t exist.
This is because as a compromise during unification,
the King of Prussia became the German Kaiser
(Emperor)—not the Kaiser of Germany (a pointed
distinction!). At the same time, this allowed the
aristocracy of the other German states to retain their
titles and privileges.
(11% of the army), Sachsen (Saxony) (7%), and
Württemberg (4%). All of the rest of the army was
controlled by Preußen (Prussia) (78%), the dominant
state. In time of war, all of the armies were united
under the command of the Kaiser, who was the “AllHighest Warlord.” Actual operations though, were
directed by the great German General Staff.
The German army was composed of twenty-five army
corps, designated by Roman numerals. Each army
corps had its own district, from which it recruited its
contingent of soldiers. Prior to the war the peacetime
strength of the German army numbered 34,870
officers and 663,578 NCOs and men.
Recruiting and Service
Recruitment for the German Military was based on
the concept of universal military service. This service
was called Wehrpflicht, and it required every male to
serve the colors (at least in theory) over a period of 27
years; from a man’s 17th birthday until his 45th.
Upon reaching the age of 17, each young man was
enlisted in the first Ban (level) of the Landsturm
(territorial reserve). At the age of 20, he then began his
period of active service, which was called
Dienstpflicht, consisting of two years in the regular
Army (three if in the Cavalry or artillery) followed by five
more in the active reserve (four if in the Cavalry or
artillery). After leaving the active reserves at age 27,
the man was entered into the first Ban of the
Landwehr (inactive reserve) and then transferred into
the second Ban upon reaching age 32. At age 39 the
man transferred into the second Ban of the
Landsturm until his discharge at age 45. Not as
complicated as it sounds, this system was intended to
provide a regular army and a large reservoir of
trained reserves who attended training sessions
periodically during each year.
The German Reich (Empire) was composed of twentysix states, four kingdoms, five grand duchies and
principalities, three free cities, and the imperial
territory of Elsaß-Lothringen (Alsace-Lorraine). Three of
the states maintained some measure of independence
and had their own armies, war ministries, general
staffs, and inspectorates; these were Bayern (Bavaria)
Another category of recruit was that of the EinjahrFreiwilliger (One Year Volunteers) these were young men
of good birth and education who served for one year at
their own expense; at the end of that one year they
were allowed to transfer to the reserves as a
Fähnrich (reserve officer aspirant). During the war
another category was created, the Kriegsfreiwilligen
(war volunteers), young men who volunteered to serve
before their call-up.
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Although all German males were in theory obligated
to do military service, large numbers never served at
all. This was due in part to the large expenditures
involved and also the fact that the Reichstag would
need to approve the raising of additional troops.
Another reason was the lack of officers of the required
social class and the army’s reluctance to enlist urban
workers, who it was believed would spread socialist
ideas to the other recruits from rural areas. Despite
not serving, those exempted were carried on the
muster rolls of the first or second Ban of the
Landsturm, or if they were between the ages of 20 and
32 they were placed in the Ersatz Reserve.
When fully mobilized, the German Army consisted of
active reserve regiments, supporting Landwehr
Regimenter and the Landsturm (which only operated
within Germany itself).
Reserve regiments were intended to form duplicate
regiments of the regular army, for example the
regular Army Infanterie-Regiment Number 111 had
as its counterpart Ersatz Infanterie-Regiment 111.
The Ersatz Reserve was intended to form a pool from
which replacements could be drawn for the Reserve
and Regular Army regiments. In 1914 there were 218
Active regiments, 113 Reserve regiments, 96
Landwehr Regiments, but by 1918, this had increased
to 698 active, 114 Reserve, and 106 Landwehr
regiments.
The Officer Corps
The German Army was socially a very conservative
institution; its officer corps was drawn primarily from
the landed Junker class. In the years just prior to the
war, increasing numbers of non-Junkers were
permitted to become officers; this being due to the
increasing population of Germany and the Junker’s
low birthrate, which was making them a smaller and
smaller percentage of the population. The officer corps
was bound by oath and class to both the Kaiser and
the nobility of the various German states. Although
the officer corps was founded on birth, it also placed
great importance on ability. It was just this factor of
ability that allowed Erich Ludendorff, a
commoner, to reach the high rank of Quartermaster
General.
The Men
The men who made up the German Army came
primarily from rural backgrounds and were deeply
patriotic. The urban recruits were a problem for the
army because of the socialist leanings found in an
industrial society. Service in the German military was
looked on as an honor and the military had a high
level of prestige. The military was also used to imbue
the soldiers with the conservative beliefs of the ruling
class. For more on the Character of the German
Army, see the article by that name elsewhere in this
in Handbuch.
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Command of the Army
Although
command of the
army rested with
the Kaiser, the
German General
Staff
exercised
actual
administrative
command. Later
in the war, most
decisions
were
made
by
Generalfeldmarsc
hall (Fieldmarshall)
Paul
von
Hindenburg and
his chief of staff,
Quartermaster
Erich
General
Ludendorff and
the
Kaiser
practically
became a figurehead;. German armies in the field
operated with two heads, the Army Group
Commander, assisted by his Chief of Staff. This
allowed many of Germany’s high nobility to actually
lead armies, albeit with the aid of a thorough
professional soldier, a good example of this being the
Kaiser’s eldest son, Krönprinz Wilhelm.
two infantry, one cavalry and one artillery. Auxiliary
troops consisted of three squadrons of Kavallrie
used
for
escort
and
Aufklärungs
(cavalry),
(reconnaissance); one or two Pionier companies who
performed engineer operations, one or two companies
of Sanitäter (medical personnel—usually stretcher bearers),
and a bridging train. During the war, this basic
organization changed into a “triangular” division,
which consisted of a brigade of three infantry
regiments and one regiment of field artillery in three
battalions. Additional changes occurred by 1917;
support troops consisted of two Pionier companies, a
Minenwerfer company, and Scheinwerfer (searchlight)
sections—medical support was also increased.
Organization of the German Army
The German Army was organized around the 26 army
corps; these were each in turn, divided into two
divisions incorporating infantry and cavalry, a Jäger
battalion, a Bataillon Troß (Train battalion), a Pionier
Bataillon (engineer battalion) and a Fuß-Artillerie
Regiment (Foot Artillery). This organization was not
always uniform for each corps, some had more of the
support battalions, some less.
The number of divisions in each corps often increased
during the war and by 1918 it was not unusual to find
army corps with up to six divisions. Another thing
that increased the size of the army corps, were the
new support units that became necessary because of
the changes in technology. Although covered later in
this article, some of these support units were whole
battalions of Gas Pioniere (gas engineers), whole
troops),
companies
of
Stoßtruppen
(assault
Flammenwerfer units (flame-thrower), Flak (anti-aircraft)
units, Minenwerfer (trench mortar) units, and Luft (air)
units.
Manpower Shortages
1917 and 1918 saw the faltering German war machine
calling up troops early and scrambling to relieve
manpower shortages. Many new divisions were
created using those men who were too young and
those too old, as well as recovered wounded and
called-up factory workers. Divisions were rated as
First through Fourth class, depending upon their
suitability for offensive operations (First Class) or for
holding operations in quiet sectors (Fourth Class).
When the war began there were 50 infantry divisions
in the army, two of elite guard units, and six in the
Bavarian army. Divisions consisted of four brigades:
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Unit Breakdowns
Brigades consisted of two regiments
of either Infanterie, Kavallrie, or
Feld-Artillerie. The Regiment was
the primary organization to which
the soldier owed allegiance; it was
the Regiment’s number or cipher,
which adorned his shoulder boards
and the cover of his spiked helmet.
The Regiment was composed of
three Bataillonen (numbered with
Roman numerals), I, II, III. Each
Bataillion [das Bataillon] (battalion) was
in
turn
divided
into
four
[die
Kompagnie]
Kompagnien
(companies). The Kompagnien were
numbered 1 to 12 with 1-4
Kompagnien in I. Bataillon, 5-8 in
II. Bataillon and 9-12 in III.
Bataillon; the 13. Kompagnie was
the heavy machine-gun company
and was unattached to any of the
three Bataillonen. The companies
were further broken down into three
Züge [der Zug] (platoons), each with
four
Korporalschaften
[die
Korporalschaft] (sections), which
had two Gruppen [die Gruppe]
(squad) of 8-9 men. In all, each
company
had
259
5
Offiziere
(officers),
Mannschaften (enlisted men), 10
Pferde (horses), and four wagons.
Elite Units and Honorary Titles
Regular German army regiments
often carried honorary titles relating
to earlier elite unit status, such as
Grenadier, and Füsilier. Actual elite
formations were designated as Garde (Guards), Garde
Greandier (Grenadier Guards), or the Bavarian Leib
Guarde (body guards). In addition there were formations
designated as Jäger (lit.=hunter) or light infantry. The
Jäger were elite units composed of men skilled in
marksmanship and woodland skills and were also
intended to give close support to cavalry. The 18 Jäger
units were originally organized as battalions; later
they were grouped to form Jäger-Divisionen, the
Deutsche Jäger Division, the Alpenkorps, and the
200th Infantry Division.
The Machinengewehr Units
Unquestionably the premier infantry weapon of the
German Army was the machine-gun. Initially,
German machine-guns were organized into special
machine-gun companies armed with 6 heavy sled
mounted Maxim ‘08 guns. The German army
appreciated the usefulness of machine-guns prior to
the war; however even they were unprepared for the
vast numbers of machine-guns that the war would
demand. In addition to the regular regimental
machine-gun
companies,
special
independent
machine-gun companies were established. In late
1915 a lighter version of the MG ‘08 appeared,
designated the MG ‘08/15. This gun was lighter and
mounted on a bipod. The ‘08/15 was distributed within
the various companies of each regiment. In 1916
special elite machine-gun companies were formed—
designated Maschinengewehr Scharfschützen-Truppen
(machine-gun sharpshooter troops), these troops were armed
with the heavy MG ‘08 and were given special
training.
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The Pionier Bataillonen
Before the war, Pionier (engineer) battalions were
attached to each army corps and were responsible for
bridging operations and other engineering projects.
During the war, their role was expanded and they
were called upon to train the infantry in their special
skills. These included handling grenades, destroying
barbed wire, use of Minenwerfer (mortars), and other
technical skills. In addition, many of the new
weapons were entrusted to the Pioniers such as
Flammenwerfer (flame throwers), and early operations
using poison gas. With their diverse skills, the
Pioniere became the nucleus of the elite storm troops.
The Sturmtruppen
Sturmtruppen (Assault or “Storm” Troops) and the tactics
they employed became the hallmark of the German
army in World War One. Originally raised as special
Bataillions, their special skills were passed on and
many unofficial storm battalions were created for
special attacks and raids. Storm battalions were
composed of young aggressive soldiers’ handpicked for
their skills. They employed a large number of
specialized weapons including grenades, light
machine-guns, flame throwers, infantry canons, and
trench mortars. They were shifted around the front
and used for special assaults or raids. They were
skillful at penetrating enemy trenches and returning
with prisoners. Also called Stoßtruppen these men
were often treated like star athletes and given better
food and billets than the average soldier. In special
schools they taught the infantry their skills of
infiltration, surprise attack, and coordination of
various weapons.
Kavallrie
On a battlefield dominated by the machine-gun and
artillery there was little place for the cavalry,
although the German army (like all others) did contain
many cavalry units. The 110 regiments of cavalry
were made up of many different types, all equally
archaic to the modern student of warfare. Dragoner
(Dragoons) were intended to fight dismounted, Uhlans
(lancers) were armed with a rifle and a steel lance;
Hussars (light cavalry) were used for scouting;
Kürassiers, equipped with steel helmets and
breast plates were heavy cavalry intended to
charge into the enemy, and Jäger zu Pferd were
mounted sharp shooters. On mobilization, 36
additional units were created. The German high
command soon realized that this large number of
men (over 100,000) was being wasted serving in the
cavalry and also that the horses could be better
used elsewhere. Many of the cavalry units were
dismounted and served as infantry. Cavalry was
still needed for scouting on the vast eastern front, but
many officers looking for excitement sought other
commands. The famous pilot, Baron Manfred von
Richthofen (the “Red Baron”) was originally an Uhlans
officer before joining the air service.
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Artillery
Unlike the cavalry, the artillery really came into its
own during the First World War. German artillery
was
divided
into
two
branches: the Field artillery,
which consisted of light guns,
and the Foot artillery which
was made up of heavy guns of the corps and army
artillery. In a war that made use of massive
artillery bombardments lasting many days,
artillery took on a new importance.
The pre-war Field Artillery was organized into
101 regiments and the artillery school at
Jüterborg. Regiments were divided into two
Abteilungen, each with three batteries of
usually six guns each. The normal armament
of the Field Artillery consisted of the 7.7 cm
Field gun. Some regiments were equipped with
the 10.5 cm light field Howitzer instead of the normal
complement of 7.7 cm guns. The pre-war strength in
guns was 5,580 pieces; during the war the number of
Field Artillery units expanded, and by 1918 had
11,280 pieces. Expansion was achieved by production
as well as by pressing captured weapons into service.
Although organized into 24 regiments, the Foot
Artillery (heavy artillery) was allocated to different
commands in batteries and groups of batteries. The
Foot artillery’s principal weapons
included, 15cm heavy field
Haubitzer (howitzers), 10cm field
guns, and 21cm Mörsers. During
the war the types of guns available
increased as captured guns were
pressed into service and
new larger pieces were
developed. By the end of
the war the number of
guns had increased to
eleven
times
the
number at mobilization.
The Luftstreitkräfte
The Imperial German Army
Air Service, was founded in
1910 with the name Die
Fliegertruppen
des
deutschen
Kaiserreiches,
most
often shortened to Fliegertruppe. It was renamed
Luftstreitkräfte by October 1916. The air war on the
Western Front received the most attention in the
annals of the earliest accounts of military aviation,
since it produced aces such as Manfred von
Richthofen, popularly known as the Red Baron, Ernst
Udet, Oswald Boelcke, Werner Voss, and Max
Immelmann.
The Fliegertruppe, supported both the Army and
Navy. The Air Service was divided into three arms,
the airship troops (Luftschiff-Truppen), balloon troops
(Feldluftschiffer-Abteilungen), and the flying troops (FliegerAbteilungen). Airship troops manned and operated
airships such as the Zeppelins, which made long
range bombing raids and scouted the North Sea for
the fleet. The balloon troops manned observation
balloons suspended over the Front, which spotted for
the artillery. Flying troops operated reconnaissance
machines, which aided the artillery and took photos.
Fighter squadrons defended the reconnaissance
machines and balloons
while
attacking
enemy
observation
aircraft
and
balloons. Later
in the war huge
bombers were built for long distance
bombing raids.
Support Units
In addition to the main combat services described
above, the army had vast numbers of support units
such as transportation units, train units, signal
units, communication units, medical transport units,
hospital units, veterinary service, supply depots,
Military police, and Etappen (communications zone)
which administered the occupied areas and controlled
the local population. These services were very
important in sustaining the war effort and allowed
the fighting troops to concentrate on fighting the war.
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Shortages and Ersatz Materials
Often, despite the efforts of the support and supply
services, German troops went hungry; as the
blockade of Germany tightened, food grew scarce.
The high command tried to ensure that the troops
received priority in food allocation, but it was often
not enough. Shortages in materials resulted in the
use of many substitute materials, which were called
“Ersatz.” Shortages in rubber resulted in aircraft
landing wheels being made from wood, and
rubberized gas masks were replaced with ones
made from oiled leather. By the end of the war,
cannon barrels were so worn that they often fired
short and killed their own men. The German soldier
continued on and fought well in a war that
increasingly engulfed him and overwhelmed him.
The Germans called the later stages of the war the
“Materiálschlacht” (the war of material) meaning they
were fighting the enemy’s overwhelming superiority
of supply and resources more than the enemy
troops.
In the End
In the end, what mattered most to each side was
material resources; bravery, courage, and honor
were irrelevant in this impersonal war that
brutalized the soldier. For over four years, the
soldiers of all of the armies were forced to live in
the mud, with lice, rats and filth. The battlefields of
the First World War resembled, much more than
anything, an open graveyard, full of unburied
corpses. The proud German army of 1914 died in
this hellish world and from it, a new hardened,
brutalized army emerged in 1918—only to return
home to even more privations and revolution.
References:
 Imperial German Army Handbook 1914-1918.
by David Nash; Ian Allan: London, 1980.
 The German Army 1914-1918
by D.S.V. Foster and R.J. Marrion. Osprey Pub. Ltd.:
London, 1978.
 German Stormtrooper 1914-1918
by Ian Drury. Osprey Pub. Ltd.: London, 1995.
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F
Minutia Guidelines for the
Essential Uniform and Equipment
irst, our definition of “Minutia”: Minutia (also
known as “kit”) refers to any physical item which is
brought to an event. This includes uniforms,
insignia, decorations, gear, food, weapons, personal
effects, etc.
In this section, we will look at what goes into the
proper “kit” for our organization. Kit refers to all the
physical “stuff” which is brought to any event; not
only uniforms and equipment, but also personal
effects, food, decorations, etc. The kit we are talking
about is the standard German infantry impression.
Specialty impressions will be covered in appendixes to
this manual and will be supplied when needed.
Our Philosophy on Minutia
Our policies about what goes into a kit revolve
around three simple rules:
1. That the items are historically proven to be
correct for the reenactor’s (and/or our group’s)
impression,
2. that the item itself is close to the original in
appearance and construction, and…
3. that the person or people concerned are
qualified and historically correct to use or wear
it.
There will of course, be cases where there is a lack
of concrete information for us to make our judgments
as to just which particular item is correct. In cases
like these, we will go back to one of our basic unit
policies: to portray the common soldier; i.e. we will
choose whichever option would be the most typical.
In order to be truly historically correct, there are
some sacrifices we will have to make. For example,
many reenactors (and the original German soldiers themselves,
for that matter) expect a pair of jackboots to stomp
around in and give them that truly “German military”
look. Unfortunately, Hollywood has done a lot for
perpetuating this stereotype. The fact is, however,
that jackboots were not all that common on German
soldiers during the last years of the war. By 1917, the
true “German” military look would really have been
ankle boots and puttees—why not have both? Often
they did!.
Specialties
Most
members
eventually
find
a
specialty which they
equip themselves for,
although they will
occasionally
leave
some of this specialty
kit in their car if they
are assigned to some
job other than what
they have equipped
themselves for.
And remember the #1
rule when dealing with the
German military: there
are NO firm rules as to
uniformity—German
soldiers were NOT that
uniform—this
idea
of
“cookie-cutter” all-the-same
soldiers is more of a modern
U.S. military idea; it ain’t
how the German military
was (or is even now today).
How these standards relate to the individual
member is actually quite
simple:
Every
member
should own at least the
Standard Field Kit. Then,
according to either the
positions available in the
unit
or
a
temporary
need,
the
member
will
then
either
assemble one of
the
specialized
kits or be issued
equipment to fill a
needed specialist role.
Since members are
often
temporarily
assigned
to
various
positions within the unit,
and these positions require
different kits, the unit itself
will try to take on the
responsibility of issuing some
of the specialized gear to the
member when he is assigned to
a particular job; so again, the kit
which the member is obliged to
have first is the Standard Kit
or “A-List.”
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In regards to the actual articles we use in
the field, we discourage the use of collectible
and historically valuable original material.
First of all, the old stuff is just not going to be
as durable and simply won’t stand up to field
usage. Second, original uniforms and
equipment have historical value; once gone,
gone forever! And third, it’s not authentic: the
Kaiser’s Army was not, as a rule, issued
100 year-old gear!
When it comes to insignia and decorations,
our rules are also very straight forward; if you
didn’t earn them in accordance with the
requirements of our organization, don’t wear
them. We will have special training sessions
for people who wish to become proficient in
one of the specialties, or a person can
demonstrate his knowledge after conducting
research in a particular area: if someone in
our group is wearing some special insignia,
then he knows something in accordance with
that insignia! As far as pieces of gear or
uniform which saw limited use, we will allow
some leeway until our unit impression begins
to suffer, in which case we may institute a
lottery system based on the judgment of the
unit authenticity officer.
Who Determined All this?
Who determines what IS and is NOT correct
here? Are you guys just making it up? No. The
rules as to what is correct, comes from the
GWA German Authenticity Rules which were
written a long time ago. As of now, it is not
linked across, but the plan is to have each
item hot-linked to the pertinent section of the
Authenticity Regs. Bear with us.
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Standard Field Kit Lists for
Mannschaften
(Enlisted Men)
W
e have broken down the soldier’s “kit” into
two different “lists.” They are:
 “A-List”—Items on this list represent the
minimum kit required to participate in the
typical living history event. Every member
must possess the items on this list.
 “B-List” —Items on this list represent all the
additional items needed to complete the
impression.
An important piece of advice (which is pretty much what
if you’re new to Great War reenacting,
please don’t rush out and just start buying things
immediately! The information in this manual is
meant to establish standards for a Central Powers
impression and give you an idea of where to look for
the various items; what it can’t do is explain the finer
details of construction, fit, or price. When in doubt,
contact your unit authenticity officer or the CP
Leadership—they will be happy to help you!
this book is about):
Follow the list and try and acquire the items in
the order they appear on the lists!
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Some Quick Knowledge:
Here’s some German terms
for different parts of your kit.
LEARN the German word—
don’t use the English term. Yes,
you can—it’s part of being a
German reenactor.
1. Feldbluse
2. Hosen
3. Mantel
4. Feldmütze
5. Halsbinde
6. Hemd
7. Unterhosen
8. Marschstiefel
9. Schnürschuhe
10. Strümpfe
11. Stahlhelm
12. Koppel u. Koppelschloss
13. Patronentasche
14. Kochgeschirr
15. Brotbeutel
16. Feldflasche
17. Trinkbecher
18. Halstuch
19. Kamm
20.Burste
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We know, some of this is kind of foreign... yeah,
that’s the thing, we’re not portraying Americans. Part
of being a German reenactor IS knowing some
German; using some German words. Make it a habit
to learn AND USE the German words for your
uniform and kit, just like we use our German names.
Why else do you want to do this impression? Really, if
you want to do it the easiest, German isn’t the
impression to pick.
“Wow!” You’re thinking, “These guy’s are nuts.” No,
we’re just trying to “be there.” This isn’t some demo
for a bunch of bored touronz, it’s living history in the
real sense of the word. We’re actually trying to get the
feeling of being there and by these small actions,
sometimes we make it! So jump on in, the water’s fine
and we think you’ll enjoy it—it’s what we do!
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Minutia Guidelines for the
Essential Uniform and Equipment
There will of course, be cases where there is a lack
of concrete information for us to make our judgments
as to just which particular item is correct. In cases
like these, we will go back to one of our basic unit
policies: to portray the common soldier; i.e. we will
choose whichever option would be the most typical.
F
irst, our definition of “Minutia”: Minutia (also
known as “kit”) refers to any physical item which is
brought to an event. This includes uniforms,
insignia, decorations, gear, food, weapons, personal
effects, etc.
In this section, we will look at what goes into the
proper “kit” for our organization. Kit refers to all the
physical “stuff” which is brought to any event; not
only uniforms and equipment, but also personal
effects, food, decorations, etc. The kit we are talking
about is the standard German infantry impression.
Specialty impressions will be covered in appendixes to
this manual and will be supplied when needed.
Our Philosophy on Minutia
Our policies about what goes into a kit revolve
around three simple rules:
1. That the items are historically proven to be
correct for the reenactor’s (and/or our unit’s)
impression,
2. that the item itself is close to the original in
appearance and construction, and…
3. that the person or people concerned are
qualified and historically correct to use or
wear it.
In order to be truly historically correct, there are
some sacrifices we will have to make. For example,
many reenactors (and the original German soldiers themselves,
for that matter) expect a pair of jackboots to stomp
around in and give them that truly “German military”
look. Unfortunately, Hollywood has done a lot for
perpetuating this stereotype. The fact is, however,
that jackboots were not all that common on German
soldiers during the last years of the war. By 1917, the
true “German” military look would really have been
ankle boots and puttees—why not have both? Often
they did!.
Specialties
Most members eventually find a specialty which
they equip themselves for, although they will
occasionally leave some of this specialty kit in their
car if they are assigned to some job other than what
they have equipped themselves for.
How these standards relate to the individual
member is actually quite simple: Every member
should own at least the Standard Field Kit. Then,
according to either the positions available in the unit
or a temporary need, the member will then either
assemble one of the specialized kits or be issued
equipment to fill a needed specialist role.
Since members are often temporarily assigned to
various positions within the unit, and these positions
require different kits, the unit itself will try to take on
the responsibility of issuing some of the specialized
gear to the member when he is assigned to a
particular job; so again, the kit which the member is
obliged to have first is the Standard Kit or “A-List.”
In regards to the actual articles we use in the field,
we discourage the use of collectible and historically
valuable original material. First of all, the old stuff is
just not going to be as durable and simply won’t stand
up to field usage. Second, original uniforms and
25 of 86 Updated: 4/6/2015
equipment have historical value; once gone, gone
forever! And third, it’s not authentic: the Kaiser’s
Army was not, as a rule, issued nearly 100 yearold gear!
Not Allowed:
Per the GWA German Authenticity Regulations, wear
of the following “specialty insignia” on any tunic is
NOT authorized:
•
flag/standard bearers’ insignia
•
insignia for gun layers (artillery)
•
signaller insignia
•
fencing proficiency insignia
•
Kaiser’s shooting prize
•
shooting awards
•
Schützenabzeichnung (lanyard)
•
Kaiserabzeichen
Special Distinctions for:
•
Infantry Instruction Battalion
•
NCO schools and preparatory schools
•
Military Riding Institute
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Standard Field
Kit Lists for
Mannschaften
(Enlisted Men)
We have broken down the soldier’s “kit” into two
different “lists.” They are:
 “A-List”—Items on this list represent the
minimum kit required to participate in the
typical living history event. Every member
must possess the items on this list.
 “B-List” or “The Complete Soldat”—Items on
this list represent all the additional items
needed to complete the impression.
Detailed descriptions and sources for the items on
the different lists will be found under the appropriate
item numbers in following pages along with a vendor
from the Source List Sadly, there will be no “approved
vendor list—just too many “minefields” there. Just
look at photos and check against what the vendor
sells... You’ll be able to tell what is good and what is
not. If all else fails, ask your unit commander.
An important piece of advice (which is pretty much
what this book is about): if you are new to Great War
reenacting or new to our unit, please don’t rush out
and just start buying things immediately! The
information in this manual is meant to establish
standards in our unit’s impression and give you an
idea of where to look for the various items; what it
can’t do is explain the finer details of construction, fit,
or price. When in doubt, contact the authenticity
officer or one of the experienced members—they will
be happy to help you!
Follow the lists and try and acquire the
items in the order they appear on the lists!
The „A-List“ Items Essential for Participation:
This kit or the “A-List” is the basic impression we do, and
care should be taken to build it properly. This kit was issued
to almost every soldier in the German Army and is the
minimum needed to participate.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Tunic (Feldblusen, Waffenrock)
Trousers (Hosen)
Boots (Marschstiefel) (or shoes and
puttees—Schuhe)
Helmet (Stahlhelm)
Shirt (Hemd)
Neck Stock (Halsbinde)
Soft cap (Feldmütze)
Gasmask with can (Gasmaske)
Canteen (Feldflasche)
Belt and buckle (Koppel u.
Koppelschloss)
Cartridge pouches (Patronentasche)
Breadbag and breadbag strap
(Brotbeutel u. Riemen)
Entrenching tool w/carrier
(Schanzzeug)
Mauser 98 rifle with sling (Gewehr 98)
(see separate weapons section)
Bayonet, Frog and Knot (Seitengewehr
u. Troddel)
Items essential for living in the field
(meaning that you should TRY and get them):
16. Mess tin and fork/spoon combo
(Kochgeschirr u. Essbesteck)
17. Shelter-half/poncho (Zeltbahn)
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T
Personal Effects
hese were items which the
Frontsoldat required for
keeping his uniform clean or
mended, items to help him pass
the time, or just personal things
which the soldier felt he had to
have. Aside from the personal
effects which the reenactor is
required to have, there is a wide
variety of things which are
appropriate. Be careful, though;
there is a tendency for reenactors
to carry more personal effects
than would be typical of the
Frontsoldat in the field. On the
other hand, if you need to take
certain personal effects to an
event, make an attempt to replace
them with WWI substitutes.
Why? Well picture this for
instance: It’s early morning at one
of our events and the “troops” are
just venturing out of their Zelts
and bunkers. There are some
muttered
German
greetings.
Some trench cookers are fired up
and some ersatz coffee is started
to brew. After a few bites of
authentic Frontsoldat breakfast
fare, there will be a few minutes
to clean up before morning
Appell. Out come the straight
razors and aluminum soap dishes
as the men begin their morning
absolutions. OH NO! What is
THAT? A fluorescent orange,
weirdly shaped toothbrush is
pulled out into view and the spell
and aura are destroyed! This historically-challenged
moment could have been prevented simply by buying
a $6 bone-handled period toothbrush.
Where can you find these period personal effects?
Some things, like the old-timey toothbrush, can be
purchased from reenactor supply houses that
specialize in other periods that predate WWI (Rev
War, Silly War, usw.). Most of the other pieces you
will find at rummage sales and flea markets. It’s just
a matter of building another life in your pockets. Just
like in real life, you will find that you end-up filling
your pockets with stuff, some of it useful, some of it
not so much so. Just cast about so that what you carry
is correct for the period—it’s so easy to find little
trinkets at flea markets, garage sales and antique
malls.
Period civilian pictures, a linen handkerchief or two,
a pencil and note pad maybe a trench lighter or match
safe… Pocket knives were common, as would be some
period money and maybe a letter or three from home.
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Feldblusen
(Waffenrock)—The Waffenrock or Feldbluse (called a
“tunic” by collectors and most reenactors) is one of
the most important parts of your impression—it’s
what people see first and it greatly influences their
opinion of you and the unit. Your tunic should be
acquired first and with the utmost care.
Note: These uniform jackets do not fit anything
like a civilian suit or any current service uniform
of any nation we know of. The following are the
key fitting elements of the WWI German
uniform: The overall length is long (not waistheight, but crotch-height or lower), the arm holes are
small and the back is narrow. This gives the
wearer the overall feeling of smallness in the
arm and shoulder area and a form fitting feeling
in the body. This feeling is commonly mistaken
by reenactors as the jacket size being too small.
This is because modern garments (with the
exception of fine Italian or European suits) are
no longer made to this form fitting method and
no one is used to this feeling.
As we have seen in earlier articles, during the Great
War there were three basic styles of tunics used by
the German Army—the M.1907/10, the Transitional
and the 1915 “die Bluse”. Either the 1910, 1915 or
Transitional patterns are acceptable for use in the
GWA. Each must exhibit the appropriate buttons and
fastenings as well as numeral or cypher shoulder
boards, with proper Kompagnie buttons (depending on
your group).
 Important note: DDR tunics, Swiss tunics,
converted U.S. Marine Corps overcoats, Swedish
tunics (converted or not) or careless reproductions (Hong
Kong Keith, etc.) of any kind will not be allowed. All
reproduction tunics must match the cut, color and
fabric type of the original issue. Again, if there is
any doubt about what this entails, contact your
Kompagnieführer or the GWA CP Authenticity Officer
for details before purchasing a tunic or attempting to
make your own—this is SO important — please,
don’t disregard this advice!!!
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regimental number shall be ‘chain-stitched’ in red
wool yarn on the epaulets; If the unit wore a cypher, it
shall be done as the original. Also needed are two
Kompagnie # buttons for the Achselklappen.
More later
M.1907/10
Waffenrock
Waffenrock)—The
(M.1910
1907/10
Waffenrock (usually just referred to as a „Rock”
or “1910”) was the uniform that the German
Army wore when it went to war in 1914 and it
continued to be issued or reissued throughout
the conflict.
The back of the 1910 has a scalloped tail
with hidden pockets. This tunic also has
exposed brass imperial crown buttons
throughout, and has red piping around the
collar, down the front fly, around the cuffs and
along the back scallops.
The 1910 Rock shall have the following
specific unit details: For Prussian units, the
sleeves shall have the “Brandenburg” style cuffs
and scalloped tail. The epaulets (Achselklappen)
shall be of the same shade as the tunic and piped
in white (the Waffenfarbe for Infantry). The
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Original MINT, unissued
Crown button, showing
how it would look
lacquered and, as issued.
Another couple of original lacquered
crown buttons left is a Saxon button, right
Prussian
Bavarian buttons detail
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Side and back hook details on M.1910 Waffenrock
Rear vent details on a Bavarian M.1910
Waffenrock
Brandenburg cuff details on a M.1910
Waffenrock
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Details showing the differing models of cuff styles (the “French cuff” was only worn by members
of Garde Schützen units.
A: Infanterie back hook. B: Back hook for Field Artillerie and
(Tross) Train hook. Make sure you get the correct hook—the
Tross hook doesn’t hold the belt properly and often makes it
fold over in half.
A set of un-lacquered buttons and back
hooks, as they come. These need to be
“worked on”
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Bavarian NCO showing Tresse and Bavarian Braid
Bavarian tunic... note buttons.
Above: Bavarian braid Below: NCO
Tresse
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Achselklappen
Here are some unit shoulder straps for example -- we hope to have photos of an original board from EACH unit in
the GWA that is portrayed. Most are here now.
Original J.R. 63
Achselklappen
Original Bavarian
Leib Rgt.
Achselklappen
Original J.R. 63
Royal Cypher
1918
Repro
5. Sturmpionier
Achselklappen
Original J.R. 63
Late-war and
Greatcoat
Achselklappen
Original
J.R. 120
Achselklappen
Original J.R. 23
Achselklappen
Original J.R. 459
Achselklappen
Original 20.
MGSS
Late-war and
Greatcoat
Achselklappen
Repro
J.R. 92
Achselklappen
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K.R. 8
mock-up
Achselklappen
Original J.R. 124
Cypher
Achselklappen
Repro J.R. 124
Numbered
Achselklappen
Original F.R. 73
Achselklappen
Repro
J.R. 129
Achselklappen
Repro
R.I.R 236
Achselklappen
12. Minenwerfer
Achselklappen
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Original F.R. 90
Achselklappen
elimination of all piping (i.e.,
exposed front buttons.
on the collar and front)
and
The Bluse was closed by a fly front, which utilized
horn buttons, saving the army eight more metal
buttons per garment. Even this was not original; the
Litewka—a pre-war optional informal tunic-had a fly
front. The tunic retained the side and back (see below)
hooks, and the lining details were unchanged. There
were only four metal buttons used on the Bluse, two
for the shoulder straps and one for each hip pocket
flap. They were the smaller size, and of a new pattern
which could be stamped of iron or steel better than
the earlier pattern. They were slightly domed,
rimless, and had a large pebble-design crown on them.
The belt ramps were likewise in this pattern (though
the larger size of a normal button), and the use of company
number buttons on the shoulders was supposed to be
eliminated. To brighten the otherwise drab
appearance, the Bluse was to have a resedagriin collar
(reseda, in its pure form, is a vibrant grey-green; in practice, collars
were of various shades, ranging from pure grey to olive).
Specialty insignia (e.g., standard bearer patches, shooting
prizes, marksman lanyards, etc.) were no longer permitted
on any style tunic.
Insignia
M.1915
„Die Bluse“
(M.1915 Die Bluse)—As the war dragged on, it
became apparent that the 1910 Waffenrock
was a peacetime luxury that was just too
complicated and expensive for wartime
manufacture. In September 1915, a new
uniform Rock called the „Bluse” was
introduced. With the Bluse, the shiny brass
buttons and conspicuous red piping of the
earlier Rocks were eliminated. Its design
was also simplified to reduce manufacturing
expense
The introduction of Die Bluse (blouse),
which was to be of a universal design for the
entire army irrespective of branch of service.
Made in a darker feldgrau color (which varied
throughout the war from light gray to an almost black
colour, depending on where it was made and what colour
wool was available), the major change from the
tunic that had evolved in early 1915 was the
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Shoulder boards on the
Bluse can either be
white piped with the
numeral/cypher
‘chain stitched’ in
red wool yarn; as
with the 1910,
or... they can be
unpiped as was
done very late
in the war.
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Collar Detail
Pocket detail
39 of 86 Updated: 4/6/2015
Insignia
The epaulets (Achselklappen) shall be of the same
shade as the tunic and piped in white (the
Waffenfarbe for Infantry). The regimental number
shall be ‘chain-stitched’ in red wool yarn on the
epaulets; If the unit wore a cypher, it shall be done as
the original. Also needed are two Kompagnie #
buttons for the Achselklappen.
More
Model 1910
Vereinfachte
(Simplified) Feldrock
(Also called the M.1914 Transitional Tunic by
collectors and Volk)
Although the M.1915 „Bluse“ was supposed to
replace the M.1910, it took some time for production
to get going and in the meantime, cost-saving
measures were begun by modifying the 1910 into
what collectors call the “Transitional” tunic, a type
widely manufactured in 1915–16. This was the first
war-time change in the look of the German Army.
This tunic has features of both the 1910 and the
M.1915 „Bluse“. Some of the features that are
normally found on a transitional tunic include
turnback cuffs, exposed buttons, red piping on the
front and collar, and no back scallops.
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there was a small slash watch pocket on the right
waist. Beginning several inches below the top edge, a
line of ponceau piping ran down the side seams of
each leg. Trousers were lined at the waistband
generally with materials similar to that used in
tunics. Along the upper edge—which
was usually unfinished (raw)—zinc
dish buttons were spaced to provide
attachment
points
for
the
suspenders; there were no belt
loops. Bottoms were turned
inward, and the hem was usually
quite deep.
A Change
On 27 August 1914, the
following changes to the field
uniform were ordered:
Trousers were in the future, to
be made of steingrau (stone
grey—a charcoal shade) material vs.
feldgrau (field grey). This move
had been in discussion before
the war in that trousers and
tunics presented a poor match
since the trousers faded more
rapidly from rougher wear and
more frequent laundering. As
such, a contrasting shade was chosen, removing the
need to match existing garments. The pattern
remained otherwise unaltered.
Trousers
(M.1915 Tuchhosen)—The trousers were made of
the same field grey material as the tunic and cap.
They were basically straight-legged, fairly narrow
fitting, and were very slightly flared through the
thighs. They had a fly front closed with horn buttons.
Cut with a very high waist—they came almost to the
bottom of the rib cage—there was a belt from side
seam to side seam across the rear that permitted finer
adjustment at the waist. On the front, inserted at an
angle, there was an internal slash pocket on each
side. Small horn buttons closed these. Additionally,
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Our Requirements
Trousers must be of either feldgrau (fieldgrey) or
steingrau (stone grey) material with red piping down
the outside seam of the leg. The Hosen must be cut to
the correct pattern. An adjusting belt in the rear, a
watch pocket and slanting slash pockets in front are
characteristics which should be present.
Also
worn,
were
the
privately-purchased
„Cordhosen“ or „Manchesterhosen“ (corduroy
trousers), these were both legal and popular among
the Soldaten. Manchesterhosen were cut to the same
pattern as the regular Hosen.
**Breeches are not allowed for enlisted use as they
were only issued to enlisted personnel who were part
of a mounted unit. Breeches were not worn by line
Infanterie troops with the possible exception of some
officers and senior enlisted NCOs — who purchased
them privately.
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M.1866 March Boots
or M.1901 Ankle
Boots
oder
Schnürschuhe)—Often
(Marschstiefel
referred to as „Knobelbecher“ (or “Dice-Shakers”) by the
Frontsoldat, the M.1866 Marschstiefel should be of
brown or black leather. A rough side out finish was
more common on wartime boots than a smooth side
out finish; therefore, a rough side out finish is
preferred. The Marschstiefel should be at least 14"
tall, with single or two piece insteps. The
Marschstiefel also must have seams up the side of the
boot, as this is exhibited on original issue
Marschstiefel. Square, boxed or pointed toes are
unacceptable, as are rubber heels and soles.
The M.1914 ankle shoes (Schnürschuhe) should lace
well up onto the ankle. On both types of boots and
shoes the soles shall be of leather and hobnailed.
Heels must also be made of leather and set with
hobnails or horseshoe plates. It should also be noted
that French ankle shoes and British “ammunition
boots” were widely used by German troops, therefore
the wearing of either is most acceptable if your unit
allows them.
M.1893 Schnürschue
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M.1914 Schnürschue
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Puttees
(Gamaschen)—Members wearing Schnürschuhe
should also wear puttees or „Gamaschen“ made of web
or bound woolen strips colored feldgrau, stone grey,
black or brown. Distinguishing features of German
Gamaschen
include
a
large hook for
attaching to
the shoe at
one end and a
strap with a
buckle or an
S-hook at the
other. Often,
Gamaschen
were
also
made
from
blankets cut
into strips.
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Rolling the Wrap
Puttee
by “Pick Mattock”
Reprinted from On the Wire, Vol. 1, No. 1
A
Seldom-failing mark of a newcomer to Great
War reenacting is by looking at how the man’s
puttees are wrapped: If white socks show or the
fellow looks like he has both legs curved the same
way, then you’ve got a tenderfoot. The solution is
simple: Wrap your puttees the way the
experts do.
the leg. Ne c’est pas?
Now it’s time to learn yet another secret—how to
roll the puttees for storage. For when it IS time to
store the dry puttee, it is rolled up with the tape end
in the center! The tape hangs free as the puttee is
carefully rolled without wrinkles upon itself. When
the puttee is completely rolled up, the tape is wrapped
without wrinkles, perpendicular to the cylinder: i.e.
across the top, down the curved side, across the
bottom, and up the curved side, then neatly tucked
under itself!
An awful lot of words to explain such a simple thing,
but then, some of you blokes ‘ave an orful ‘ard time
getting’ an idea into yer loaf a’ bread.
The secret is to begin your wrap at your
ankle, above the shoe top or overlapping the
shoe top just a bit. The end of the puttee
should be placed upon the inside of the
ankle, or perhaps just in front of the lacing of
the shoe. Experience will soon show you
which area is better so that the upper end of
the wrap finishes at the side or rear of the
calf out of sight.
Then,
begin
wrapping
the
puttee
downward. That’s right, downward. Cover
the shoe top and the bump made by the knot
of the laces. (The laces have previously been tucked
into the tops of the shoes so they won’t show below the
puttee) When you have reached the top of the
instep where the shoe begins to swell
outward broadly, wrap the puttee neatly and
parallel with the ground, then start up the
leg. Each turn should be about 1 inch above
the bottom of the previous wrap.
The rolled puttee should be pulled tautly
away from the leg to maintain tension on the
wrap. This gives a tight fit, which will: (a)
hold the puttee to the leg, and (b) give
support to the calf of the leg.
The final wrap should be neatly parallel
with the ground, with the 1-inch tape band
lying neatly upon itself in the center of the
wrap, and the free end tucked neatly under
the tight band. The triangular point of the
wrap should be out of sight on the side or
back of the calf, as mentioned before.
Now take a look at yourself in the mirror.
Dummkopf, did you wrap both legs from left
to right? Always wrap from the inside of the
leg, around the front, toward the outside of
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Our Requirements
All must have a M.1916, M.1917 or a M.1918
Stahlhelm, which will be worn during all mid- and
late-war scenarios. In Great War reenacting, we wear
a Stahlhelm for a reason—WW1 reenacting has
working mortars!
The chinstrap and liner must be of the correct
pattern for the Stahlhelm worn (i.e. M.18 chinstrap with
the M.18 Stahlhelm). Helmet covers, if worn, must be
good reproductions of the original German issue.
Repainted helmets will be feldgrau color and of the
proper finish (no black painted Stahlhelme, etc.).
Der Stahlhelm
(Steel Helmet)
M.1916, M.1917 or M.1918
A
t the beginning of the Great War, the German
Army wore the „Helm“ or Pickelhaube (as we
call it today). Made of formed leather with metal
trim, the Pickelhaube offered the wearer little or no
protection against shrapnel, the by-product of the ever
increasing use of artillery. Soon, the number of
soldier’s with serious head wounds due to shrapnel
mounted. These head wounds were found to be far
worse than other types of wounds because even if they
did heal, they often left the man incapacitated and
unable to function. The rising numbers of serious
head wounds caused the German High Command to
search for a solution.
After much testing and study, the M.1916
Stahlhelm (steel helmet) was issued in limited numbers.
With the Stahlhelm, a marked decrease in the
shrapnel head wounds was quickly seen and soon,
almost all the Frontline units were issued Stahlhelme,
beginning at Verdun with its mass introduction to the
units fighting there. With the Stahlhelm, the whole
look of the German soldier changed—to a look we
associate today as “the” German look.
No one knows how many lives were saved by the
introduction of the Stahlhelm, but it can be assumed
to be a very high number.
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A Brief History of
the German Steel
Helmet
handkerchief or piece of cloth can be placed in the
dome for warmth in cold weather. The chinstrap,
when not used, was to be pulled-up over the visor of
the helmet.
by Reinhard Keller,
Great War Militaria
T
he model 1916 German helmet was a groundbreaking innovation—designed to protect the
wearer from small shell fragments that would
normally wound or kill. The M.16 Stahlhelm was
adopted in November 1915, with the first test
production and trials successfully conducted by both
the Sturm Bataillon „Rohr“ (the 1st Assault battalion) and
various other assault battalions (to the envy of regular
army troops who “borrowed” many of them from the assault units)
at Verdun in Nov/Dec, 1915. Production began in
January
1916
with
30,000
helmets
(Eidenhuttenwerk/Thale) made and issued to the assault
battalions at Verdun, with full adoption of the helmet
for both assault battalions and regular field armies in
February 1916.
Design Features
Plugging the vent lugs during cold weather
The new steel helmets were made in sizes 60 to 70
(approximately 19¾” head to 27½” head in ¾” increments), with
the maker and size stamped inside the left shield and
steel lot numbers inside the top. For correct fit, the
visor is to be level to the eyebrow and a space
maintained between the head and the shell (to absorb
impact) with use of pads, cloth, or paper strips.
Ventilation of the Stahlhelm is through the visor
shield lug holes, which can be stuffed with wood,
paper or dirt during inclement or windy weather. A
M.16 “Brow-Plate“ detail
„Sniper“ Armor
Initially, 5% of all helmets were to have the
accompanying protective nickel-steel armor “brow”
plates, but this was never accomplished due to
shortages of nickel which was needed in the
production of the brow plate. The brow plate lugs of
the M.16 helmets show a distinctive “step” as the
helmet becomes smaller in size. This “step” is to
accommodate the width of the armored brow plate
which was made in only one size. Priority was given to
German soldiers on the Somme and Verdun for the
new helmets. The French captured their first German
helmet and front plate in March of 1916. The U.S.
military received a captured helmet from Paris in
February 1917 after their request to the German
military attaché in Berlin was denied due to “Patent
right problems!”
In May, 1917, due to leather shortages, the allleather liner was changed to a metal band with
leather pads. In many instances, troops polished their
helmets with grease or oil for inspections, parades,
and other functions. By November, 1917, a nonreflective paint was being applied to reduce the glare
of the initial gloss paint. The demand for steel
helmets continually exceeded the supply, thus
helmets were always kept where they were needed,
with none taken home on leave (thus the rarity of studio
portraits with steel helmets). It’s interesting to note that as
late as February, 1917, Pickelhauben (leather spiked
helmets) were still being withdrawn from the front
lines as the steel helmets became available.
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M.1917 and M.1918 Stahlhelme
One of the first visible modifications to
the Stahlhelm was the M.1917 liner—
this went from a leather band, to a
metal bad, which not only saved scarce
leather, but also made the liner work
better.
In the final months of the war, the
steel helmet was redesigned slightly.
The old method of attaching the
chinstrap—which had been unsatisfactory at
best—was discarded. The new helmets (which collectors
call the M.1918) were produced without the chinstrap
attaching lugs on the helmet curtain; instead, the
chinstrap was attached directly to square swivel-loops
on the M.17 helmet liner ring. An improved chinstrap
with a carbine hook allowed the strap to be
tightened, then removed via unsnapping the clip
without the necessity of readjusting the fit each time
the helmet was put back on. Several weeks before
the end of the war, a variant of this helmet with “cutouts” in the
neck shield over each
ear
appeared.
Otherwise identical
to the previously
mentioned
redesigned
helmet,
it
is
believed
this
experimental
variation was
designed
to
improve hearing
and limit the
concussive effects of explosive blast while
wearing the helmet. Needless to say, these
“cut-out” Stahlhelme are not only rare, but
real ones are also VERY expensive—late war
only!
Helmet Covers
Long an informal practice in the field (most
issue helmet
covers were produced for the attack divisions
that
would
lead
the
March
1918
“Kaiserschlacht” offensive. Constructed of grey,
grey-green, or khaki colored drill, they were
attached to the helmet with a series of hooks along
the lower edge. Most had holes for the helmet’s
ventilation lugs; these were often reinforced with
leather.
had been made of burlap from sandbags),
Helmet vent lug details.
• The type A lug is for a size
60 Stahlhelm,
• the type B lug is for a size
62,
• the type C lug is for a size
64,
the
type D lug is for sizes
•
66 u. 68.
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.
Achtung! Stahlhelm Size Chart
The Stahlhelm was made in six different sizes and
you must make sure that you get one that fits you
correctly! The size of the shell can be found stamped
into the left inner-side of the neck apron. When worn
correctly, the visor should be level with the eyebrows;
this height can be adjusted somewhat with the liner.
Shell Size
60
62
64
66
68
70
Head Size
50.0 to 52 cm.
52.5 to 54 cm.
54.5 to 56 cm.
56.5 to 58 cm.
58.5 to 60 cm.
60.5 to 62 cm.
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To figure out your
size, simply take
a cloth tape
measure, and
using the metric
side, measure
around your head
above
the eyebrows.
M.1916 Helmet liner detail
Here is a great detail graphic of the M.1916 liner,
different than the one shown in the helmet cut-away
art in that it has a leather band that the “fingers” are
sewn to.
*Sometimes the Frontsoldat would substitute a wound-dressing
packet or two for the liner pads.
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Camouflage
In July 1918, the value of camouflage (whose
purpose
was to make an object appear shadowed by its surroundings)
was
recognized. It is our firm belief, based upon the
various similar patterns on helmets in the GWM
collection and those sold through our catalog, that
distinctive camouflage patterns placed on steel
helmets were often unit individualized, not only as a
mark of “esprit de corps,” but to recognize members (or
parts of) from your own unit. There can be little doubt
that several unit members who had some artistic
talent were “detailed” to paint the helmets, and thus
many distinctive individualistic and unusual patterns
were bound to emerge as a part of the painter’s
personality or whim. Of course, as with ALL things
concerning the German Army, there are exceptions; a
prime example being Stahlhelme (pl.) with the black
lines all ran down because the painter used too much
paint—yes, there were messy Germans too. Also,
many helmets were painted after the war for
“souvenirs” (and thus the birth of “camoed” trench art U.S.
helmets done in the same styles).
After this, paint and instructions for the painting of
helmets was distributed to front line troops. The
colors of green, yellow ochre, and rust brown (to be
mixed or used “as is”), were to be applied according to the
“time of year” with one of the three basic colors
matching the surrounding area. “patches” were to be
large equalized portions with sharp angles with the
front of the helmet exhibiting no more than 4 colored
fields. Light and dark paints were to be placed next to
each other, with colored segments separated by a
finger wide black line. This color scheme was adopted
for cannons, mortars and machine guns also, with
lighter colors to be used on top (shadow) and darker
paints on the horizontal.
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Postwar Fakery
An authentic “wartime” camo German helmet can
only be ascertained by its traits of provenance, and
the experience gained in years of handling original
and reproduction helmets. The paints used in WWI
were distinctively different than the paints of today,
but not impossible to match. One trait displayed by
old paint is that it takes a very long period of time to
cure and obtain traits that can be recognized after
that hardening process. Often the problem is telling
exactly how old the paint on a helmet is, and if it was
done properly 20 years ago, it could pass for WWI.
Painting of helmets to pass as originals is still a fairly
recent trend, and properly matching the factory colors
from WWI is still difficult, as you need to know the
colors that were produced. But as the years go by, and
if the fakery is done correctly, helmet collectors in the
future are going to have to be very careful!
Repro Stahlhelme
Here, are a couple photos of the common Indian
repro Stahlhelms that really need a lot of work to fix.
Sure, you can buy one, but it’s WRONG. The bill is too
long for starters, which means either you or a metal
worker buddy will have to trim the front bill down
and then fold the metal over. Kind of a lot of work.
Just buy a real one from John Dubbs or a good
repro.
The chronological dates in this short summary of
the German helmet are taken from Ludwig Baer’s
The History of the German Steel Helmet 19161945 J. Bender Publishing, 1985. Much of the art
comes from Stahlhelm, Evolution of the German
Steel Helmet by Floyd R. Tubbs.
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Shirt
(das Hemd)—The German issue shirt is made of a
white or off-white cotton drill material and was cut
long. Part of the shirt’s purpose was as a nightshirt.
Waist-length shirts (like tunics) are not authentic
(That means WRONG! Don’t buy a “German” shirt that is waitlength.)—even if using a civilian shirt. (look at the photo on
the next page) Times were different—go with it... and do
your own research. Don’t believe a vendor telling you
waist-length shirts are okay—they aren’t. And, a
waist-length shirt pops out and doesn’t stay tucked in
and is annoying.
The simple issue shirt is the best bet, and if you
cannot find an issue shirt, you do have the option of
wearing a correct period civilian shirt, which may also
be added to their kit. Another option is the wear of a
grey wool collarless shirt (British “greyback”) which was
trimmed in white, this was a common style of nonissue shirt used by soldiers. One other known
frontline practice was simply wearing long-john’s
underneath the tunic.
The Hemd was issued to all soldiers, but… being
Germans, these soldiers often augmented their
uniform with civilian clothing items. The wear of
civilian clothing items was somewhat common among
other nation’s soldiers, but was also quite unlike the
U.S. military practice of having identical soldiers—
things like this are sometimes hard for Americans to
grasp as it is just such a foreign concept… Just keep
rememberin’: The Germans AIN’T Americans! and
you’ll do fine.
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Original joke photo showing the true length of the
Hemd.
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Neck Stock
(Halsbinde)—The Halsbinde was a
particularly “German” invention
which meant to protect the collar of
the tunic from wear; not as is
commonly thought, to prevent the
collar from chafing the Soldat’s
neck. The comfort of the Soldat was
not considered to be particularly
important; more so was the need to
preserve the uniform Indeed, in
many cases, the tunic lasted longer
than the Soldat, as evidenced by the
wartime re-issue of tunics of those
soldiers who had died in hospitals.
The Halsbinde is worn tied
around the neck. The left end is
slipped through the slit and is tied
underneath the flap. They are
available in different sizes and
lengths and should be grey-colored
for wear with the field uniform. The
Halsbinde worn with the work
uniform was black, and some
black/white and black/grey reversible types have been
found.
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the German Army during WWI—this kind of thing
was ignored. Soldiers were issued what was available
and serviceable—unless you are doing an early-war
impression, it is not really important to match your
tunic and Feldmütze.
M.1910 Field Cap
Feldmütze
or
“Krätchen”)—The
(M.1910
Feldmütze is a pillbox shaped cap of feldgrau wool.
The Infanterie style Feldmütze has red piping around
the crown and a red band around the base. The 1915
„Einheitsfeldmütze“ is authorized for use at mid- and
late-war events as well. This cap was intended for use
by all branches of service and therefore the piping was
in „resedagrün“ (pea green), as was the band.
Both types of Feldmütze must be complete with
both National and state Kokarden (cockades) on the
front. The National Kokarde is black/white/red and is
sewn above the state Kokarde (see chart). The
Kokarden must be the type for enlisted use and, they
must be the sew on „Mannschaften“ (non-NCO enlisted)
version, not the prong back type which is the pattern
for NCOs.
*A note: it is a FELDmütze or Mütze
(Felt-myut-zah), not a “mootz”. Please! Ugh.
 Ideally, in a reenactor “stitch-nazi” fantasy, your
Feldmütze should match your tunic type (i.e. a 1910
tunic with a 1910 grey Feldmtze with a red band or a Bluse with a
Einheitsfeldmütze), but in the real world—especially in
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Bavarian Feldmütze
(notice lower Kokarde, which is Bavarian)
Prussian Einheitsfeldmütze
(notice lower Kokarde, which is Prussian)
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Feldmütze
Band-Cover
(Abdeck Band)—To help conceal the red
band of the Feldmütze, covers were made
of a strip of feldgrau or light-grey cloth
tacked (loosely sewn) directly to the cap.
These covers were also made of a light
webbing with an adjusting buckle in the
back (usually this style was tacked on with thread
to the Feldmütze also, as otherwise, they tend to fall
off).
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Kaiserliche
Kokarden
(Imperial German Cockades)
Großherzogtum Baden
Art by Christian Gollmar
O
ne of the neat things about the German
military was that each state had its own
Kokarden (cockades)... No, we don’t reenact each
of these different states, but it’s neat to know. From
the left, is the Offiziere (officer’s) version, then the
Unterffiziere (NCO) pin-on and last, the Mannschaften
(enlisted) sew-on version.
Großherzogtum Mecklenburg-Schwerin
Großherzogtum Hessen
Deutsches Reich (National)
Großherzogtum Oldenburg
Königreich Preußen (Prussia)
Großherzogtum Sachsen
Königreich Bayern (Bavaria)
Großherzogtum Mecklenburg-Strelitz
Königreich Sachsen
Herzogtum Braunschweig (Brunswick)
Königreich Württemberg
Herzogtum Sachsen-Meiningen
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Herzogtum Anhalt
Fürstentum Schaumburg-Lippe
Herzogtum Sachsen-Coburg und Gotha
Fürstentum Reuß (ältere Linie)
Herzogtum Sachsen-Altenburg
Hanseatic (Hamburg, Lübeck
Fürstentum Lippe
Bremen
Fürstentum Waldeck
Fürstentum Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt
Fürstentum Schwarzburg-Sonderhausen
Fürstentum Reuß (jüngere Linie)
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Gas Mask and
Gas Mask
Cannister
(Gasmaske und Gasmaskentragebüchse) —
Gas masks became standard issue to German
troops in August 1915. There are two kinds of
repro Gasmasks that reenactors will see (and
use) and that’s what we’ll cover here: The
Gasschutzmaske M.15 (Gummimaske to
collectors and reenactors) and the Gasmaske
M.17 (Lederschutzmaske to collectors and reenactors;
not being reproed at this time).
The Gasschutzmaske M.15
The Gummimaske was made of impermeable
rubberized cotton fabric. The stamped round
metal frames in eye glasses were made of
unbreakable and non-combustible celluloid.
The mask was held on the head by two elastic
bands. A neck strap allows the gas mask to
worn ready for use. Initially, the mask was stored in
the breadbag, then later, a gray canvas bag was
introduced. In 1916 the storage can carried in the
canvas bag was fitted with two straps, sometimes
made of „ersatz“ paper-cloth. The original paper-cloth
straps were strong and durable but over the years,
have become fragile and will no longer hold-up in the
trenches! Soldiers were also issued an extra filter with
a cloth carrier worn on the belt.
fabric-covered, twisted piano wire springs which, it
was said, were as good as the earlier elastic tape.
Although ingeniously designed, the Gasmaske M.17
(Lederschutzmaske) was inferior to the earlier
Gummimaske The leather was smelly and rough, it
was also stiffer and a good fit was therefore more
difficult to achieve. The Lederschützmaske did not dry
quickly and could not be patched with rubber solution,
and had to be carefully stowed in its canister to avoid
chafing the seams. As if this were not enough, the
Changes and the Gasmakse M.17
As the war progressed, the effects of the
British blockade were felt and Germany ran
short of rubber., The rubberized cotton fabric
of the Gummimaske began to be replaced by
chrome-tanned sheepskin, bought from
Bulgaria. The first step was to dip it into
sealing oil to render it waterproof. Next, a
single piece was cut from the hide and rolled
into a cone and cut in three places. Then the
seams stitched and lacquered. The seams
were cut to allow the lenses to stand clear of
the face like goggles. The eye pieces were
double-layered (celluloid and cellulose acetate
respectively) and coated on the inside with
gelatine to prevent misting-up. The coating
replaced the wiping folds of the fabric mask
and so reduced the dead air space in the
mask. The face line was made airtight by
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eyepieces angled differently from the Gummimaske
which the solders had become accustomed. One could
get used to that but aiming was difficult.
Note: After 1916, you would rarely have seen
frontline Soldaten with a full beard.
Generally, men were either clean-shaven, had
moustaches or, at the most, had a goatee. This
can easily be substantiated by looking at
period photographs; the reason for this being
so that the Gasmaske would seal properly to
the face.
The Tragebüchse is a short, circular canister with a
wire clip latch. It has a two part carrying strap,
sometimes made of „ersatz“ paper-cloth. It is
important to remove original paper-cloth strap from
the Tragbüchse—although strong and durable when
new, original paper-cloth becomes fragile over time
and they will no longer hold-up in the trenches!
Soldiers were also issued an extra filter with a cloth
belt carrier worn on the belt.
Each member shall carry a proper WWI German
Gasmaske (either original or good repro) with the
appropriate canister. The spare filter carrier is
optional.
This is NOT WWII reenacting, members need to have
Inside of early Gummimaske canister.
If you are interested in the history, design and wear of
the myriad of German gasmasks, I would suggest La
Guerre Des Gaz 1915-1918 by Patrice Delhomme
available exclusively from Great War Militaria.
There is also an Osprey book called World War I Gas
Warfare Tactics and Equipment. Last, there is a
good article by Randall Chapmann of IR63 in their
newsletter -- I’m sure he would send to you.
and carry a gasmask!
Important: It is a very good idea to remove and
disassemble the original filter on your mask and clean
out the interior, as they occasionally still have traces of
poison gases such as phosgene in them. If you happen
to breath in this gas residue, it can still damage your
lungs even after all these years! Also, asbestos was
used as one of the filter components and should
therefore be removed.
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Gasmaske 17 and
Tragbüchse
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Gasschutzmaske M.15 and details
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Canteen
Germans
(Feldflasche)—The
used a number of canteens and
most are authorized for use at
GWA events, but the ones you will
usually see (and that are reproed) are
the early war M.1907 screw-top
Feldflasche and the M.1893 model
Feldflasche. Either type must be
complete with the proper pattern
leather harness and cover. The
cover may be made either of
feldgrau wool, brown corduroy or
ersatz
papercloth.
Medical
Feldflasch are only to be used for
medical impressions. *Note: WWII
canteens are unacceptable for use
in the GWA (please see GWA uniform
regs).
Replica
M.1907
screw
top
Feldflaschen are allowed IF they
are of a correct pattern. Be careful
as some repros are made of some
weird pot metal that corrodes badly...
M.1907 Feldflasche with wool cover.
M.1893 Feldflasche with wool cover.
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M.1893 Feldflasche with corduroy cover.
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M1895 Belt and
Buckle
(M.1895 Koppel und Koppelschloß)—The military
cartridge belt with a buckle bearing the proper
inscription for the state you portray: Prussia: „Gott
Mit Uns“ (God is With Us) was a long-standing symbol
Original Koppel u. Koppelschloß courtesy of
WWW.pommerschespionier.com/
of the Prussian Army. Bavarians wore “In Treue
Fest” and Württemburg troops wore “Furchtlos Und
Treue” Other states wore different mottos.
Belt
The Koppel was worn by itself or with varying
amounts of equipment hung on it.
When the Koppel was worn with the tunic, it was
held in place by four metal hooks which were attached
to the tunic, two on the sides and two (made in the form of
buttons) in the back. This was sufficient for light duty;
however, the increased weight of a combat load of
ammunition required the use of the breadbag strap
(Brotbeutel Riemen) which was looped around the
neck and hooked to the cartridge pouches.
The Koppel was issued in varying sizes.
Minor size adjustments to the belt (for when
wearing the greatcoat, etc.) could be made by
moving the buckle along a strap sewn to the
inside of the belt.
The Koppel shall be made of leather, colored
black or brown on the outside, natural leather
inside, with the rough side out, and have an
adjustment tongue. Buckles may be made of
brass or feldgrau painted steel and must be of
the proper WWI pattern for your state.
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Buckle Plates
Prussian early-war tombak and nickel
Bavarian early-war tombak and nickel
Prussian bare steel
Prussian feldgrau-painted steel
Württemburg early-war tombak and nickel
Saxon feldgrau-painted steel
Hessen brass
Back side of buckles view
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Mecklenburg brass
Cartridge Pouches, M.1909
M.1909)—
(Patronentasche
The M.1909 Cartridge Pouch is
made of leather. It has three
separate pockets, each holding
15 rounds of rifle ammunition
attached to three separate
stripper clips (Ladestreifen) with
five rounds each, making a
combined total of 45 rounds per
pouch. On the back of the pouch
there are loops through which
the uniform belt slips and a ring
into which the breadbag strap,
or Tornister shoulder straps,
may be hooked to help support
the equipment worn on the belt.
Normally, two pouches are
worn, one on each side of the
belt buckle, allowing the Soldat to carry 90 rounds of
ammunition.
Each member will wear two M.1909 Patronentasche
of brown or black leather. The use of Peruvian issue
pouches, which are similar to original
WWI German issue, is allowed at this
time; however, the use of Turkish pouches
is only allowed to be used as a temporary
measure (don’t get tricked into buying a set of
Turkish pouches, besides which they reek of
something real nasty.). German WWII pattern
pouches are not acceptable at all for WWI
infantry use.
Reproduction pouches are available now
and the use of repro pouches is HIGHLY
recommended. A set of repro pouches is
your best bet as, with care, they will last
for years and you won’t be trashing a part
of history.
How to wear with Breadbag Strap
(see bottom pp. 75)
1. Snap hooks on the breadbag strap hook
into rings on the back of cartridge pouches.
2. The breadbag strap passes behind the
neck, under the collar of the Feldbluse to
support the cartridge pouches.
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M.1887 Breadbag
and Breadbag Strap
(M.1887 Brotbeutel mit Riemen)—The German
Soldier wore the Brotbeutel on his right hip,
suspended from the belt. This cotton duck bag holds
toilet articles, the Feldmütze when not being worn,
rations, and other necessities of life for the German
soldier. There are several models of the breadbag, the
basic ones will be described here. The Brotbeutel is
made with a single piece of cloth for the front and
back that was sewn together so it narrowed somewhat
near the top.
The flap was then put on. The flap has a single “D”ring near the top left side (A) and a leather tab near
the bottom (B) which allows the Soldat to attach the
Feldflasche to the breadbag. Three adjustable leather
straps hold the flap and inside bag closed. The bag
itself is divided into two compartments by the use of a
piece of matching cloth. Two button-down belt loops
are located at the upper edge near the corners of the
breadbag and a metal belt hook riveted to a strip of
the canvas material is attached to the top center.
The breadbag must be of ochre or feldgrau color,
with a single “D” ring and loop. WWII issue
Brotbeutels are not acceptable. Other breadbags of
similar but not
identical
construction
are likewise
Unlike the WWII practice, the First World War
German Soldat was not issued “Y” straps for his
equipment waist belt. Instead the breadbag strap
(Brotbeutelriemen), hooked to each cartridge pouch and
passed under the collar and behind the neck to serve
this purpose. German WWII issue breadbag Riemen
are virtually identical to those used in the Great War,
and as such, their use is allowed and encouraged.
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unacceptable. Certain surplus breadbags may be
converted to
WWI appearance
by
making
modifications (BGS and DDR). Check with your sponsor
or the Kompagnieführer before buying a Brotbeutel.
Do NOT pay someone $70. for a breadbag!!!
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Entrenching Tool
and Carrier
(Schanzzeug und Schanzzeugtasche)—As the
Great War devolved into sustained trench warfare,
the entrenching tool became more and more
important. The Schanzzeug that the ordinary
Infanterie Soldat carried was the short infantry
shovel (Kleines Spaten für Infanterie). The Spaten had a
straight handle with a ball shaped end. The blade was
square shaped and usually had one edge sharpened
which made it into a very deadly trench weapon.
One Soldat in 19 was issued with the Combination
Pick-Axe (Beilpicke für Infanterie). Also issued were Wirecutters (Drahtschere), Field Hatchet (Feldbeil für
Infanterie), Pionier Saw (Pionier Faltsäge), long Pionier
Shovel (Pionier Spaten) and Pionier Pick (Kreuzhacke).
Regulations said that each Kompagnie was to be
issued 100 Kleines Spaten, 13 Beilpicke and 5
Kreuzhacke with covers. [The amounts of the other
entrenching tools are not specified, but can be assumed to be on par
with the Beilpicke.]
Soldiers should have a proper M.1887 Infantry
Shovel and its correct leather harness. Original
Schanzzeuge are, of course, acceptable along with
similarly constructed Swiss, French or other
European entrenching tools. East German shovels are
acceptable as long as they are of the type with the
shovel blade riveted onto the head (as opposed to its being
welded on). If you would like to carry one of the
alternate entrenching tools, you must first get
permission from your unit leader. All entrenching
tools should be able to be used for the task they were
designed.
*Other entrenching tools (including
photos) will be covered, in-detail, in
the appendices.
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1. M.1874 Spaten
2. M.1874 carrier
3. M.1898/09 Spaten
4. M.1909 Carrier
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M.98/05 Bayonet
and Bayonet Frog
(Seitengewehr und Koppelschuh)—An enormous
variety of bayonets are known to have been used by
the German Army during the Great War. The M98/05
“Butcher” pattern Seitengewehr quickly replaced the
earlier S.98 “feather’ or “quillback” bayonet as that
model was fragile and broke easily in use. In 1917 the
high command sent down an order that ALL Front
line troops would carry the Butcher bayonet, as it
was “the” bayonet of the fighting soldier.
Each Seitengewehr must be complete with its
appropriate scabbard and frog. The Seitengewehr
scabbard should be either blued or painted (black or
feldgrau) and both scabbard and blade will have no rust
spots upon it. The Koppelschuh should be made of
brown or black, rough-side out leather with white
linen thread.
**The “Sawtooth” pattern Butcher Bayonet should not
be worn, as its use was unofficially banned during the
war. The French and Americans tended to execute on
the spot any German soldier captured carrying a
“Sawtooth” pattern bayonet, as it was believed those
bayonets would cause a wound that would not heal.
*Other Bayonets such as the “Feather-NeedleQuillback, ersatz models and modified captured
varieties will be covered in the appendices.
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A small note: the grip and guard
should be blued, whilst the blade
should be left in the “white” or
unfinished. The scabbard should be
blued or alternately, painted black or
feldgrau.
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Bayonet Knot
(Troddel)—Knotted around the bayonet frog, the
Troddel has its origins in the saber knot, which was
used to keep the saber attached to the Soldat’s hand
in combat. By the time of WWI, the Troddel had
merely become a part of the complex system of
insignia that the German Army used for unit
identification.
Gefreiten (pl.) and Musketiere (pl.) should take care
to wear only the Troddel signifying their Kompagnie
(see chart). Unteroffiziere (pl.) and Sergeanten (pl.)
should wear the Unteroffiziere Troddel, which is
made-up of black and white threads for Prussian, blue
and white for Bavarians, etc.
Green and white Troddel (Saxony), Blue-magenta-white Troddel (Mecklemburg), Black
and white Troddel (Prussia), Blue and white Troddel (Bavaria), Black and Red Troddel
(Württemberg) Photo courtesy of one our Kameraden in the DSM 1870-1918 e.V.
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Troddel Color by Kompagnie
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M.1910 Mess Tin
(Kochgeschirr, M.1910)—The M.1910 Kochgeschirr
is a two piece pail (with a kidney shaped cross section) that
fits and latches together. They were made of
enameled steel, feldgrau painted steel or blackened
aluminum. The top has a bail (handle) (A) attached to
it that keeps the Kochgeschirr closed when it is folded
over the bottom part. The bottom is deeper than the
top and has a wire handle to carry it with. Some
versions have notches stamped into the bottom part to
hold the Eßbesteck (combination fork/spoon) to keep it from
rattling around inside.
A 1930’s German political Kochgeschirr is identical to
the WWI style and therefore is acceptable to use. Up
until 1916, the large M.1867 tin Kochgeschirr was
still in use.
WWII, DDR, Swedish or Bundeswehr tins (which are
several inches shorter than the WWI type) are totally
unacceptable — just get a real Kochgeschirr, a Third
Reich political messkit or.... There are now good
repros on the market (Hessen), so you don’t have to
drop $80. for a messkit. Don’t buy stuff you ain’t
gonna be able to use!
Combination
Spoon/Fork
(Eßbesteck)—Each German Soldier was issued an
Eßbesteck, a combination folding spoon/fork. This
handy item is usually stored in between the lid and
body of the Kochgeschirr. Either the more common
tinned steel version or the early war versions in
aluminum are acceptable.
There are repros, but some are in stainless steel,
which isn’t really correct—perhaps they can be
tinned?
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M.1892 Zeltbahn
(M.1892 Zeltbahn)—The Zeltbahn is one half of a
small tent, consisting of a square-shaped piece of
canvas with 32 opposing pairs of buttons. The Zelt
also has small cord loops sewn onto it, through which
the tent ropes are threaded so that they can tie
around the neck and waist when using the Zelt as a
raincape. Zeltbahnen can be assembled in
combinations of 2 or more to make a huge “Boars
Nest.” Zeltbahns were manufactured in two different
colors—ochre and grey. At the start of the Great War,
Zelts were of a dark ochre color. As the war
progressed, the color was changed to a less
conspicuous grey color.
Other uses for Zeltbahnen include: dugout door flaps
and ground cloths for playing Skat or sunning
themselves. When fording a river, the soldier’s
uniform and equipment could be placed in the
Zeltbahn and floated across. Zeltbahns also could be
folded and buttoned, two large poles then slipped
through and the Zeltbahn became a stretcher. Finally,
the Zeltbahn could serve as a shroud for a dead
soldier; with a macabre sense of humor, German
troops nicknamed their Zeltbahns Heldensarg (hero’s
shroud), Krematorium (crematorium) and Leichentuch
(funeral shroud).
Although grey-colored Zeltbahns are preferred, earlywar ochre colored ones are just as acceptable. The Zelt
must have all the proper buttons, grommets and loops
and be of the correct measurements to attach to other
standard Zeltbahns.
The Zeltban
The Zeltbahn is an item every German soldier (and
should have as part of their kit, the
Zeltbahn served many practical purposes other than
simply decorating the top of their M.95 Tornister
(pack).
German reenactor)
Up until about the middle of 1915, Zeltbahnen
(that’s the plural of Zeltbahn, so calm down) were produced in
russet brown (red ochre), matching the breadbag and
strap. After 1915, all three were produced in varying
shades of feldgrau. The Zeltbahn measures about 158
cm. x 158 cm. (63” x 63”). It is constructed of cotton
duck, the quality of which declined after 1915.
The four sides have buttons and
buttonholes along them, allowing many
Zeltbahnen to be joined together to form very
large tents. The corners each have 4
grommets for attaching cords, etc. Across the
middle of the Zeltbahn are sewn five loops,
and seven loops are sewn in a semi-circle at
the top, which serve as a mount for the neck
cord and waist cord when the tent is used as
a rain cape.
The English term “shelter quarter” is
misleading when used to describe the
Zeltbahn’s use as a part of a tent. With
buttons and buttonholes on all sides,
Zeltbahns could be combined in twos to form
a “pup tent,” or as many as 20 could be
combined to form very large tents. For use
with the Zeltbahn, each soldier carried a bag in his
pack that contained three stakes, three poles, three
short cords and one long cord.
85 of 86 Updated: 4/6/2015
Zeltbahn Art by Steve Fischer
86 of 86 Updated: 4/6/2015

CP Intro and Basic Kit - Great War Association

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