Experience Las Vegas

Transcription

Experience
Las Vegas
Excerpted from Fodor’s Las Vegas
1
10 <
Las Vegas Planner
L A S VEGAS
P L A NNER
Las Vegas Hours
When to Go
Getting Around
The Vegas climate’s bark is
worse than its bite. Sure, summer highs hover around 100°F,
but with no humidity and everpresent air-conditioning, you’ll
be comfortable as long as you
have water on hand. Even the
warmer months (June–September) are entirely bearable if you
hydrate. Luckily, with 300 days
of sunshine a year, the chances
of a rain-out are slim.
CAR TRAVEL
On the other hand, nights can
be chilly between late fall and
early spring, so bring a sweater
or windbreaker for your evening strolls beneath the neonbathed skies.
Las Vegas doesn’t have a high
or low season by the standard definition, but you’ll find
it the least crowded between
November and January. Hotels
are at their fullest July through
October. Specific events—New
Year’s Eve, spring break, major
conventions, sporting events—
draw big crowds, so plan
accordingly.
> 11
If you’re exploring the Strip or Downtown, it’s best just to
park your car (it’s free at most casinos) and walk. If you
think you’ll be operating beyond the Strip during your stay,
get a rental car.
Hoping for sushi at 4 in the
morning, or looking to work out
at a gym at midnight? Sounds
like you’re a night owl, and
that means Vegas is your kind
of town. There are all kinds of
businesses that run 24/7 in this
city of sin, from supermarkets
to bowling alleys . . . oh yeah,
and they have casinos, too.
Safety Tips
BUS TRAVEL
Public bus transportation’s available (on Citizens Area Transit, or CAT) but is geared more to locals than visitors. Both
CAT buses and trolleys ply the Strip but can take forever in
traffic—the fare on both is $2.
The Deuce is geared more to the tourist. The double-decker
buses run up and down the Strip 24/7—the fare is $3.
Stops are located every quarter mile and are marked with
signs or shelters; from transfer points, you can connect to
other city buses that go all over town.
TAXI TRAVEL
Few places in the world have tighter security than the casino
resorts lining the Strip or clustered together downtown.
Outside of these areas, Las Vegas has the same urban ills
as any other big city, but on the whole, violent crime is
extremely rare among tourists, and even scams and theft are
no more likely here than at other major vacation destinations. Observe the same common-sense rituals you might in
any city: stick to populated, well-lighted streets, don’t wear
flashy jewelry or wave around expensive handbags, keep
valuables out of sight (and don’t leave them in unattended
cars), and be vigilant about what’s going on around you.
RESERVATIONS
If your itinerary’s centered on the Strip, plan on walking
or using cabs. Cabs aren’t cheap ($3.30 initial fare plus
$2.40 per mile) but can be very convenient and worthwhile, especially if you’re splitting a fare (no more than five
people allowed in a cab). You may save a few bucks renting a car, but you’ll pay a price in aggravation.
Many attractions don’t require reservations; some places
don’t even accept them. But any activity with limited
availability—a stage show, a restaurant, a guided tour—
deserves a call ahead.
MONORAIL TRAVEL
MMAm
The Las Vegas Monorail costs $5 per ride and runs from
the MGM Grand to Harrah’s before making a jog out to
the Convention Center and terminating at the Sahara. It’s
no sightseeing tour; the train runs along the ugly back sides
of the resorts. But it’s a fast way to get from one end of the
Strip to another, especially on the weekends when even the
Strip’s back streets are full of traffic. The trains run 7 AM–
2 AM weekdays; 7 AM–3 AM weekends.
MMIs
Other monorails include the one that heads from Mandalay
Bay to Excalibur (only stopping at Luxor when it heads
south), one that runs from Monte Carlo through City Center
to Bellagio, and a third that runs between the Mirage and
TI. Rides are free; trains run 24 hours a day.
Use common sense. Ask yourself these questions:
I bringing a big party (6 or more people) to this event?
this a weekend event at a popular time of day (6–9
for dinner, 7 AM–2 PM for golf)?
MMIs
PM
the venue very popular?
MMWill
I be disappointed if I arrive to find the venue full?
MMWill
the people I’m traveling with hold me personally
responsible for ruining their morning/day/evening?
If you answered “yes” to one or more of these questions,
then you need to make a reservation, or you need someone
to call ahead for you. Who would be willing to do such a
thing? Your hotel’s concierge, that’s who. And don’t wait
until you check in; call the concierge before you leave
home to get a jump on the crowd.
Attractions, such as museums
and various casino amusements, tend to keep more typical business hours, but you can
almost always find something
to keep you entertained no
matter the hour.
Visitor Centers
The Las Vegas Convention
and Visitors Authority (LVCVA)
operates a visitor center
(P702/892–0711 w www.visitlasvegas.com) at 3150 Paradise
Road, open from 8 to 5. Stop
by for brochures and advice on
what to see and do in town.
The LVCVA also operates the
Las Vegas Hotline (P877/847–
4858), with operators on hand
7 AM–7 PM Pacific Time who
are plugged into every major
resort and restaurant in the
region. Think of them as a concierge service for all of southern Nevada.
1
Nevada State Museum
and Historical Society
515
Neon El Cortez
Golden
Museum
Fre
Nugget
mo
nt
St.
DOWNTOWN
15
Trump International
Hotel & Tower 3
Fashion
Encore
Wynn
Las Vegas
THE STRIP
Palazzo
Sands Ave.
Rio
Flamingo Rd.
Palms
Harrah’s
Venetian
Auto Collection
at Imperial Palace
Flamingo Hotel
Caesars
Bill’s Gambling Hall
Palace
Bellagio
Vdara
THE
WEST SIDE
Mandarin
Oriental
City
Center Aria
New York
Excalibur
Luxor
Mandalay
Bay
1/2 mi
1/2 km
15
Planet
Hollywood
Four
Seasons
604
Ma
Maryland Parkway
Desert Inn Rd.
PARADISE
ROAD
Atomic
Testing
Museum
Hard
Rock
5
Flamingo Rd.
University of
Nevada
at Las Vegas
Harmon Av.
MGM Grand
1
Vegas Valley Dr.
Renaissance
Platinum Hotel
Paris
Las Vegas
Country
Las Vegas
Convention
Center
Westin Casuarina
Gameworks
Monte Carlo
Tropicana Ave. New York-
THEhotel
2 Bally’s
Las Vegas
Hilton
589
Liberace
Tropicana Ave. Museum
Hooters
Tropicana
The Little Church
of the West
McCarran
International
Airport
TO PINBALL
HALL OF FAME;
THE GUN STORE
Maryland Parkway
Show D
r.
Las Vegas Monorail
Vegas Indoor Haunted
Skydiving Vegas Tours
Guardian Angel Cathedral
Mirage
0
Paradise Rd.
Circus Circus
Treasure Island
0
Sahara Ave.
Sahara
Gold
Coast
ryl
an
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Ma
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.
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lvd
.
Oakey Blvd.
Chapel of
the Flowers
Sahara Ave.
Spring Mountain Rd.
Orleans
Little White
Wedding Chapel
604
Stratosphere
15
BR
95
Viva Las Vegas
Wedding Chapel
Rancho Dr.
Oakey Blvd.
589
4
Charleston Blvd.
Charleston Blvd.
Rd.
4Downtown. Hotels are
cheaper and favored for their
strictly adult pleasures: dice
and drinks. They exist in the
old Vegas tradition, when
guests were expected to
5Paradise Road. Parallel
to the Strip, a short drive or
15-minute walk east, is the
mellower Paradise Road area,
which includes the Convention
Center. There's less traffic, and
there's monorail service along
one stretch. Hotel options
include the Las Vegas Hilton,
Hard Rock Hotel, Hooters, and
the Platinum.
Four Queens
Golden Gate
dise
Para
3North Strip. The North
Strip is defined by luxury. Wynn
Las Vegas and the Encore
have some of the swankiest
rooms in town. At the Venetian
and the Palazzo, standard
rooms have a sunken living
room. Even at TI, the recently
renovated rooms aren’t too
shabby. Though this part of the
Strip is a 30-minute ride from
the airport, it’s well worth the
journey—clubs and restaurants
here are some of the best in
town. Perhaps the only downside: prices are among the
most expensive in town.
TO
OLD NEVADA/
BONNIE SPRINGS
RANCH
The Strip
begins. Room rates in the
Center Strip tend to be in the
midrange, with smaller resorts
being the most affordable.
Another draw is the shopping
at Crystals (inside City Center),
the Miracle Mile Shops (inside
Planet Hollywood), and the
Forum Shops (inside Caesars).
Alta Ave.
Las Vegas Natural
History Museum
Experience
Plaza
Valley View
spend most of their hours in
the casinos, not their rooms;
consequently, rooms range
from scuzzy to semi-pleasant.
Stay here if you want to spend
less than $50 per night and
enjoy lower table limits.
Main Street Station
Old Las Vegas
Mormon Fort
Pk
wy
Blvd
95
Las Vegas Blvd.
2Center Strip. The heart
of the Strip is home to iconic
casinos such as Bellagio,
Planet Hollywood, Bally’s,
Harrah’s, Flamingo, the Mirage,
and Caesars Palace. This section, a 20-minute cab ride
from the airport, stretches
from City Center to the Venetian, where the North Strip
95
Valley View Blvd.
1South Strip. Between fight
nights at the MGM Grand and
concerts at Mandalay Bay,
the section of Strip between
the sprawling City Center and
the iconic WELCOME TO LAS VEGAS
sign could be considered the
entertainment hub of Vegas.
Resorts in this area include
the Tropicana, Monte Carlo,
New York–New York, Excalibur,
MGM Grand, and Luxor. Rooms
on this side of town generally
are within 15 minutes of the
airport and are slightly more
affordable than their Center
and North Strip counterparts.
Between City Center itself
and recent overhauls at Luxor
and New York–New York, the
South Strip's the most recently
updated section of Sin City’s
most famous street.
on
ags
Gr
TO SUN BUGGY FUN RENTALS;
TO SOUTHERN
RICHARD PETTY DRIVING EXPERIENCE
NEVADA ZOOLOGICAL
Lied Discovery
Bonanza Rd.
BOTANICAL PARK
Children’s Museum
Expressway
95
BR
Fremont
Martin L King Blvd
W H AT’S
W H ERE
Arville St.
12 <
Russell Rd.
14 <
What’s Where
> 15
W H AT’S
W H ERE
15
NorthNorth
Craig Rd.
Craig Rd.
Las Vegas
Las Vegas
Blvd. Blvd.
Charleston
159 Charleston
215
215
15Sahara Sahara
Ave. Ave.
Spring Spring
Mtn.Rd.Mtn.Rd.
Flamingo
Flamingo
Rd.
Rd.
SpringSpring
ValleyValley
Tropicana
Ave. Ave.
Tropicana
167
Winchester
Winchester
Desert Desert
Inn Rd.Inn Rd.
The The
Strip Strip
9
6
9
8
UNLV UNLV
8
Lake Lake
Las Vegas
Las Vegas
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LAS ANGELES
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Boulder
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BLA
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3 mi 3 mi
McCULLO
0
McCULLO
0
15
Alan Bible
Alan Bible
Visitor Center
Visitor Center
TO
TO
HOOVER
DAM DAM
HOOVER
93
E
E
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BoulderBoulder
Strip Strip
RA
Las Vegas Blvd.
Henderson
Henderson
13
Lake Mead
Lake Mead
MarinaMarina
TAINS
Henderson
Henderson
AirportAirport
13
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Lake Mea
Lake Mea
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Lake Lake
East East Las Vegas
Las Vegas
Las Vegas
Las Vegas
11
11
McCarran
McCarran 515
International
AirportAirport
International
SunsetSunset
Rd.
Rd.
7
15
167
Sahara Sahara
Ave. Ave.
de
Blue DiB
luoenDdiaRm
am
d.ond Rd.
Lake Mead
Lake Mead
National
National
Recreation
Area Area
Recreation
Charleston
Blvd. Blvd.
Charleston
ul
159
160
147
15
Bo
159
160
215
147
Bo
215
6
15
RA
15
La
Downtown
Downtown
Las Vegas Blvd.
159
.
lvd
sB
ga
e
sV
Nellis Dunes
Nellis Dunes
Recreation
Lands Lands
Recreation
S
Summerlin
Summerlin
Pkwy. Pkwy.
Las Vegas Blvd.
95
Decatur Blvd.
Valley View Blvd.
95
Jones Blvd.
12
La
15
Cheyenne
Ave. Ave.
Cheyenne
North Las
Vegas
North
Las Vegas
Carey Ave.
AirportAirport Carey Ave.
Lake Mead
LakeBlvd.
Mead Blvd.
BUS
BUS
Sunrise
Sunrise
Ownes Ownes
Ave. Ave.
95
95
Washington
Ave. Ave.
Washington
ManorManor
Decatur Blvd.
Valley View Blvd.
12
Jones Blvd.
Cheyenne
Ave. Ave.
Cheyenne
Summerlin
Summerlin
e
sV
.
lvd
sB
ga
14
Las Vegas Blvd.
14
ise
15Outskirts. This catch-all
area includes resorts and
eateries to the distant south,
far east, due north and near
west of the greater Las Vegas
metropolitan area.
15
15
13Henderson. Southeast of
the Strip but west of Lake Las
Vegas, the area's perhaps the
most stereotypically “suburban” in the valley: think strip
malls and drive-thrus. Still, its
outlets are popular, and locals
come from miles around to
gamble at Green Valley Ranch
Resort Spa Casino.
14North Side. This area,
between Summerlin and the
Boulder Strip, encompasses
the neighborhood known on
maps as North Las Vegas. It's
home to the Las Vegas Motor
Speedway, the Aliante Station
Casino & Hotel, and a host of
up-and-coming restaurants.
93
LL
12Summerlin. West of
Downtown, this tony neighborhood looks out on the
gorgeous Red Rock National
Conservation Area. It's home
to Red Rock Casino Resort
Spa and the JW Marriott Las
Vegas Casino Resort.
S
TO
TO
TONOPAH
TONOPAH
157
LL
157
ise
10Boulder Strip. Las Vegas’s
fastest growing neighborhood
comprises development along
the Boulder Highway, on the
far east side of the Valley.
Highlights include Mystic Falls
Park and Arizona Charlie’s and
Sam’s Town casinos.
95
Parad
9University District. This
neighborhood comprises University of Nevada, Las Vegas
and the blocks immediately
surrounding it. There aren’t
many noteworthy hotels, but
restaurants and museums
abound.
95
Parad
8East Side. Situated east of
Paradise Road and stretching
out to Lake Las Vegas, locals
call this neighborhood “Sunrise,” after the eponymous
medical center at its core.
93
TO
TO
ST GEORGE,
UT
ST GEORGE,
UT
Rainbow Blvd.
7Airport. Located within a
few-mile radius of McCarran
International Airport, this area
features the new M Resort, a
bunch of budget motels, economical time-shares (i.e., Tahiti
Village), a huge shopping mall,
and lots of chain restaurants.
SHE SHE
EP
ERPA N G
ENGE
RA
11Lake Las Vegas. This
man-made lake, Southeast
of the Strip, is a resort area
with high-end hotels, and
more. Be sure to check out
the shopping and gambling at
MonteLago Village.
Rainbow Blvd.
6West Side. Due west of
the Strip, on the other side of
Interstate 15, are the Palms,
Rio, and the Orleans. This
isn't a glamorous section of
town and you'll be cabbing or
driving to and from the Strip.
Chinatown and the city’s only
In-N-Out Burger are short
rides (or long walks) away.
1
95
95
City Itineraries
E. Oakey Blvd..
Ve g
a
W. Sahara Ave.
us
15
E. Sahara
Ave.
I nd
E S
TR
Planet
E. Harmon
Hollywood
Ave.
Universit y
o f Nevada
Las Vegas
Showcase Mall
MGM Grand
Reno Ave.
W. Hacienda Ave.
Hard
Rock
Mandalay Bay/
Four Seasons
Tropicana Ave.
McCarran
International
A irpo r t
at Circus Circus’s indoor theme park Adventuredome on your way to the Stratosphere
Tower. Here, the Big Shot, X Scream, and
Insanity–The Ride fly high above the Strip
at 1,149 feet. Can’t decide between wild
animals and wild rides? Go downtown for
both at the Tank at Golden Nugget, where
a three-story waterslide includes a ride
through a glass tube into the heart of a
200,000 gallon shark tank.
For a mellower afternoon, head to the
Venetian’s Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum.
After posing next to Denzel and J-Lo,
check out the exploding volcano at the
Mirage. Since you’re at the Mirage, grab
last-minute tickets for ventriloquist Terry
Fator’s one-of-a-kind musical puppet act.
You can minimize your kids’ sinful intake
by staying at the Trump International Hotel,
a posh accommodation unusual for being
smoke- and casino-free.
Swenson St.
New York–
New York
Hoover
oover D
Dam
ARIZONA
Vegas Valley Dr.
95
93
Flaming o Rd.
TO LAKE
LAS VEGAS
RESORT/RED
ROCK RESORT
Liberace
Museum
Eastern Ave.
City
Center
Las Vegas Blvd. S.
Bellagio
W. Harmon
Ave.
Paris
Cambridg e St.
Flamingo
Flamingo Rd.
Twain Ave.
Swens on St.
Caesars
Palace
LLake
M
Mead
Sierra Vista Dr.
Venetian
Harrah's
Mirage
Rd.
Maryl and Pkwy.
Treasure Island
Shore
h Sh
E. Desert Inn Rd.
Encore
Wynn
Las Vegas
Paradise Rd.
Spring Mountain
Rd.
Palms
Stardust Rd.
Trump Hotel
The Palazzo
TH
W. Desert Inn
Rd.
rt
No
Boulder C
Bou
B
Bo
City
Ci
Las Vegas
Country Club
Riviera
Blvd.
IP
Dr
.
lan
Hi
gh
Sirius Ave.
Circus
Circus
d
Meade Ave.
LAS
AS VE
VEGAS
VEG
Karen Ave.
Koval La.
Mandalay Bay. Continue on to the Bathhouse Spa inside the chic THEhotel, where
you can soak in an Asian green-tea bath.
Take a cab to City Center and cruise Crystals mall for Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Tom
Ford, and Tiffany & Co. For lunch, take
the free tram to Bellagio and nab a window seat at Olives for views of the dancing
fountains and Lake Bellagio.
In the afternoon, take a breather and relax
by the pool of your hotel, margarita in
hand. Then head to the Shoppes at the
Palazzo. Annie Creamcheese is like a thrift
store for the rich and famous where you
can pick up modernized retro-apparel (it’s
not “resale,” it’s “vintage,” dah-ling). Just
be sure to give yourself enough time for
tapas-style dinner at Lavo.
End the evening with LOVE, the Cirque
du Soleil homage to the Beatles. Then
complete your hard day’s night with the
racy Peepshow at Planet Hollywood or kick
it at one of the city’s nightclubs; watch
for B-list celebs at the Venetian’s Tao or
admire the beautiful ones at Pure inside
Caesars Palace.
Bring the Kids
This may be Sin City, but there are plenty
of great family-oriented activities. There’s
wildlife galore, starting with exotic birds
at Flamingo and the fish and reptiles at
Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay. Check out the
big cats at the Lion Habitat at MGM Grand,
and then head to the Mirage to see white
tigers of the Secret Garden and the eponymous mammals of the Dolphin Habitat.
If your family prefers adrenaline-based
bonding, scream your way up the strip,
starting at the Roller Coaster at New York–
New York. Next, head to the multifaceted
entertainment complex GameWorks in
the Showcase Mall (next to MGM Grand).
Continue north along the Strip stopping
Valley View Blvd.
Two Hours to Kill
If you only have a couple of hours to
burn, head to Mandalay Bay at the south
end of the Strip. Chill out in Red Square’s
vodka cooler, where the bar doubles as a
block of ice. You can tour the Shark Reef in
about 45 minutes and then spend the rest
of your time shopping at Mandalay Place,
lunching at trendy Burger Bar. You could
also avoid the Strip entirely and head to
the recently expanded Hard Rock Hotel. If
you’re hungry, head to Ago where you can
take in views of the pool complex over
an exceptional meal. If you need to stay
near the airport, drive five minutes east of
McCarran to the wonderfully campy Liberace Museum, an amusing slice of quintessential Vegas kitsch where you can easily
while away an hour or more.
The Vegas Virgin
Head for the heart of the Strip to take in
all that glitz and glamour you came to
see. Walk across the miniature version
of the Brooklyn Bridge at New York–New
York, take in some of the modern art collection at Aria inside City Center, check
out the dancing fountains at Bellagio, and
do as the Romans would and take a stroll
through Caesars (the Forum Shops have
great lunch options).
Head back to your hotel to freshen up
before your night on the town. Splurge
on dinner at MGM Grand’s Joël Robuchon or Switch inside Encore. Later on? Try
The Deuce, the new lounge/high-roller pit
inside Aria, or Mix, a lounge atop THEhotel
at Mandalay Bay for the view of the Strip.
Then finish off with some gambling or a
show—we love Cirque du Soleil’s O.
The Sophisticate
Enjoy breakfast poolside at the Verandah
restaurant in the tranquil, nongaming
Four Seasons resort, on the property of
> 17
15
.
.S
lvd
St. Louis Ave.
sB
Stratosphere
La s
C I T Y ITINERARIES
TO
GOLDEN
NUGGET
Rancho Dr.
W. Oakey Blvd.
t ri a
Rd l
.
16 <
Hacienda Ave.
Out for the Afternoon
Stunning desert scenery and outdoorsy
diversions are much closer to the Strip
than you might think. Make the 25-mi
drive southeast of Vegas to Boulder City,
stopping for a quick look at the handsome
and historic Boulder Dam Hotel. Continue
8 mi to Hoover Dam for a tour. Next, it’s a
short drive to Lake Mead, where you can
scuba dive over a sunken town, cruise
on the Desert Princess paddle wheeler, or
sunbathe along the beach. On your way
back to Vegas, detour to the Lake Las Vegas
Resort for a dinner of sushi or mod PanAsian fare at the stellar Marssa Restaurant.
If the gambling bug bites you, stop off at
the Red Rock Resort in Summerlin. It’s a
favorite of the Beverly Hills crowd.
1
18 <
Good Walks in Las Vegas
> 19
1
G O OD WALKS IN LAS VEGA S
.
lvd
.S
sB
Veg
a
Las
Sa
nd
s
Av
e.
Venetian
Mirage
E. Harmon Ave.
M&Ms World
MGM Grand
Tropicana Ave.
Excalibur
15
Luxor
W. Hacienda Ave.
W. Russell Rd.
Mandalay
Bay
Maryland Pkwy.
Planet
Hollywood
e Rd.
New YorkNew York
Twain Ave.
Ave.
is
Parad
Bellagio
Monte Carlo
Sierra Vista Dr.
Flamingo Rd.
Bally’s
City Center
E. Desert Inn Rd.
Casino Royale
Caesars
Palace
W. Harmon Ave.
Twain
Koval La.
amid follow the enclosed walkways to
Excalibur. From there, it’s an easy walk
across a pedestrian bridge to New York–
New York’s new gaming floor. Total time:
15 minutes.
All about M’s: Inside the MGM Grand,
resort guests can explore the grounds—
both the MGM Grand and the area surrounding the Signature towers. Then
you can join the masses and hit the Strip
heading north toward M&Ms World, the
town’s biggest candy store. Total time:
30–40 minutes.
See an Icon: If the daytime temperature
drops below 80°F or you’d rather go at
night, head south on Las Vegas Boulevard
from Mandalay Bay and you’ll spot the
famous WELCOME TO LAS VEGAS sign. If you
want to take a picture directly under the
sign, be careful crossing the street; the sign
sits in the center median and there’s no
crosswalk. Total time: 20 minutes.
Center Strip
See the Fountains: Catch the dancing fountains outside Bellagio. Showtimes are
every half hour. It’s best to go at night,
when the fountains are illuminated with
spotlights. Total time: 20 minutes.
Retail Therapy: Start by circling the stores
in Crystals at City Center, then hit the
Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood.
To wrap things up, cross the street and
explore the Forum Shops at Caesars Pal-
ace. Total time: three hours, depending on
stops and dressing room time.
Molten Fun: The Mirage’s volcano is worth
a gander, but the best views are from the
opposite side of the Strip. From Bally’s,
head north and stop in front of the Casino
Royale. It’s best to go at night, when the
“lava” glows like the real stuff. Total
time: 25 minutes.
North Strip
Viva Italy: The Strip has plenty of Italy to
explore. To immerse yourself, stoll the
canals around the Venetian’s shops, then
follow signs toward Barney’s New York
and Palazzo. All told, you never have to
step outside. Total time: 45 minutes.
Wynn Nature: Conservatory gardens in
both Wynn Las Vegas and Encore feature
seasonal flowers and trees—both rarities
in the middle of the Las Vegas desert.
To care for this greenery, Wynn employs
more than 50 gardeners. Total time: 40
minutes.
Mall and Trump: On superhot days, avoid
the sun with a stroll through Fashion Show
Mall, then cross Fashion Show Drive and
head into the Trump International Hotel for
a martini at DJT. Total time: 45 minutes.
Wynn
Las Vegas
Las Vegas Monorail
South Strip
Mummies to Big Apple: Inside Luxor’s pyr-
Trump International Hotel
Fashion Show
Mall
T H E ST R IP
way to avoid the desert sun.
Spring Mountain Rd.
Valley View Blvd.
a number of challenging walks. Many of these are indoors, a perfect
15
.
Show Dr
Las Vegas Blvd. S.
doesn’t mean you can’t get in some exercise. The Strip actually offers
Fashion
W. Desert Inn Rd.
Valley View Blvd.
Las Vegas may be a town of debauchery and decadence, but that
Reno Ave.
Welcome
To Las Vegas Sign
McCarran
International
Airport
0
0
1/2 mile
1/2 kilometer
Cooling Off Spots:
Numerous casinos and restaurants have public water misters. Our favorites: outside Diablo’s Cantina at the Monte Carlo; the frozen-margarita
bar outside Caesars Palace (northwest corner of Flamingo and the Strip);
various shops in the “horseshoe” between the Flamingo and Harrah’s.
What to Avoid:
The skinny stretch in front of TI during the Sirens of TI shows, when
everyone stops to watch.
Where to Walk:
The west side of the street from Center Strip to the Venetian—the sidewalk on the east side jogs east between the Flamingo and Harrah’s, costing you five minutes or more, if it’s crowded.
Tired of Walking?:
You’re never far from a taxi, but it’s downright impossible to hail a cab
on the Strip. Hotels welcome you onto their taxi stand lines in the hopes
that you’ll come back and play in their casinos.
Tipping for Taxis:
Tipping the bellmen who hail the cab for you is customary, but if you’re
not a hotel guest and don’t think you’ll see that bellman again, don’t
bother.
20 <
Las Vegas Top Attractions
> 21
L A S VEGAS
T O P ATTRACTIONS
B
A
1
D
C
Spectacular Spectaculars
(A) Will it be an acrobatic Cirque du Soleil
extravaganza? A standing act by a musical
legend? An afternoon comedy show, or
Broadway-lite (90-minute cut-downs of
the original productions from the Great
White Way)? A classic feather revue, or
a spooky hypnotist show? Maybe you’re
just in the mood for a plain old lounge
show where the microphones squeal, the
singer is slightly out of tune, and a great
time is all but guaranteed. It’s practically
against the law to be bored in Vegas.
World-Class Restaurants
(B) The $2.95 lobster dinner has gone
into hiding, but those cheap chow deals
of yesteryear are hardly missed; Las
Vegas has become a foodies dream destination. Every major resort offers a halfdozen fine-dining options in addition to
the ubiquitous snack bars and fast-food
places. If you stayed in Vegas for a year,
H
F
you’d never have to eat at the same place
twice—or leave the Strip.
Rolling the Dice
(C) Never mind those buffets, swimming
pools, spas, traffic jams, dancing girls (and
boys, and water), wedding chapels, and
circus acts. It’s Vegas, baby, and you’re
here to roll the bones and go all in.
Nature versus Nurture
(D) Consider heading out of the casino and
taking in one of the many natural wonderlands surrounding Las Vegas. Summer
visitors can explore Lake Mead or Red
Rock Canyon. And, if you’re in town during the winter months, hit the ski slopes
at Mt. Charleston. There’s more to this
town than neon.
The Stratosphere Thrill Rides
(E) If you’re an adrenaline fiend, you can’t
miss the incredibly scary (and fun) rides
perched atop the 112-floor Stratosphere
Tower. The Big Shot fires you 160 feet
up the Stratosphere needle, and both the
E
X Scream and Insanity dangle you over
the edge of the Stratosphere tower. These
aren’t for the faint of heart.
Forum Shops at Caesars
(F) Opened in 1992, this chichi shopping
and dining mall modeled after a Roman
streetscape forever changed the retail and
culinary scene in Vegas. In addition to
stellar restaurants like BOA Prime Grill
and Spago, this snazzy space contains
dozens of fine stores, including Gucci,
Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bulgari.
Legendary Nightlife
Sky-high bars with valley-wide views.
Thumping bass lines and flashing lights.
Semiclothed Adonises and Venuses swinging overhead. Whether you’re looking
for a wild dance club or a sophisticated
lounge scene, Vegas comes alive after
dark. So dress to the nines, grab a cosmo,
and join the 24-hour party.
G
Over-the-Top Pools
(G) The tanning booth is now a ubiquitous feature in the Anytown strip mall,
but it still can’t compare with the oldfashioned poolside sun soak—especially
if that soak is in Las Vegas, land of toned
bodies, cocktails, cabanas, Euro-style
bathing, man-made beaches, and swimup blackjack.
Hoover Dam and Lake Mead
(H) If you have time for just one trip outside
of town, make it to this Depression-era
concrete monstrosity, considered one of
the seven wonders of the industrial world.
You’ll see why when you tour the interior
and see the massive turbines that make the
lights go on in Pasadena. Combine the trip
with a visit to nearby Lake Mead, where
you’ll enjoy numerous watery activities.
22 <
Get Taken for a Ride
> 23
G E T TAKEN
F O R A RIDE
You’d think the constant opportunity
to win or lose enormous sums of money
would be enough to make Las Vegas a
thrill-seeker’s nirvana, but there’s oh-somuch more here to send your adrenal
glands into spastic overdrive.
Adventuredome at Circus Circus. If the sun is
blazing, the kids are antsy, and you need
a place to while away a few hours, make
for the big pink dome behind Circus Circus. The 5-acre amusement park has more
than 25 rides and attractions for all age levels, and is kept at a constant 72°F. Check
out the Canyon Blaster, the world’s largest
indoor, double-loop roller coaster, a huge
swinging pirate ship, a flume ride, bumper
cars, several kiddie rides, a laser-tag room,
a rock-climbing wall, and much more. And
who wouldn’t enjoy the Inverter, which
whips you upside down over and over. The
Fun House Express, designed exclusively
for Circus Circus, uses computer-generated
images to portray a fast-paced rollercoaster ride through a spooky world called
Clown Chaos. ECircus Circus, North
Strip P702/794–3939 or 866/456–8894
w www.adventuredome.com A$4–$7 per
ride; all-day pass $24.95 CCall for hrs.
Circus Circus Carnival Midway. If you can’t
win the jackpot at the casino, try winning your sweetheart a teddy bear instead.
Here you can play old-time fair games like
the dime toss, milk can, and bushel basket for the chance to win cuddly prizes.
Every half hour from 11 AM to midnight,
acrobats, high-wire walkers, jugglers, and
trapeze artists perform free shows in the
stands of the midway area. Get there at
least 15 minutes in advance for a good
spot to view the show. There are also
clown-face painting and a state-of-theart video arcade. ECircus Circus, North
Strip P702/734–0410 or 800/634–3450
1
w www.circuscircus.com A$1–$3 per
game CDaily 9 AM–midnight.
Cyber Speedway at Sahara. Did you ever
want to be a race-car driver? Well, here’s
your chance to get a taste of the action
without having to risk your neck on a
racecourse. First you get into a car about
three-quarters the size of an authentic
stock car. Then you buckle your seat belt
and prepare for a ride that simulates the
driving experience by moving your car
on hydraulic bases. Meanwhile, you see
the speedway rush past and under you
on a 20-foot wraparound video screen.
Each ride can feel different because you
can customize your vehicle’s horsepower,
braking, transmission torque, suspension,
and several other variables. ESahara
Las Vegas, North Strip P702/737–2654
w www.saharavegas.com ASingle race
$10, unlimited day pass (Speedway rides
and roller coaster) $22.95 CDaily, noon–
10 PM.
Fantasy Faire Midway. Merrie Olde England meets a modern-day carnival with all
your favorites like skee-ball, old-fashioned
horse-racing games, and a few high-tech
video games, such as the interactive Dance
Dance USA. Check out the SpongeBob
SquarePants 4D Special FX Ride, which
brings motion simulation to Bikini Bottom.
There’s also a virtual log ride and dino-theme
ride; each is a six-minute sensory assault.
EExcalibur, 3850 Las Vegas Blvd. S, South
Strip P702/597–7777 or 877/750–5464
w www.excalibur.com A$1–$2 arcade
games; $4–$5 per ride CSun.–Thurs.
10 AM–midnight, Fri.–Sun. 10 AM–1 AM.
GameWorks. GameWorks is the biggest,
most boisterous arcade in town. The multilevel arcade has more than 250 games,
loosely arranged by genre, including shootem-ups, sports games, and virtual dance
stations. There are also several casual restaurants and 21-and-over bars with pool
tables. E3785 Las Vegas Blvd. S, next to
MGM Grand, South Strip P702/432–
4263 w www.gameworks.com AFree
entry, games cost $1–$2 each, $35 all-day
pass CSun.–Thurs. 10 AM–midnight, Fri.
and Sat. 10 AM–1 AM.
HPole Position Raceway. This is no puttputting lawnmower-engine powered gokart. These miniature racers are electric
(think: souped-up golf carts) and reach
up to 45 MPH. You and 12 competitors
zip around the ¼-mi indoor track full of
twists and turns. The Pole Position computers track your overall performance
from race to race, and over multiple visits.
You’ll get a score sheet giving a detailed
score breakdown to compare with your
friends. A free shuttle service is available from the big Strip hotels. E4175
S. Arville, West Side P702/227–7233
w www.polepositionraceway.com/vegas
A$50 for adults for 2 races, $44 for kids
CSun.–Thurs., 11 AM–11 PM; Fri.–Sat.,
11 AM–midnight.
Richard Petty Driving Experience. Join the
ranks of the slightly insane as you climb
into a 600-horsepower stock car courtesy
of legendary racer Richard Petty. Petty’s
driving school offers multiple packages
to suit your personal need for speed. At
the entry level you’ll go three laps with
a trained driver who takes your car past
160 MPH. The high-end single-day package
is called the Rookie Experience, where you
go through safety training before getting
behind the wheel for eight laps of deathdefying fun. Drivers speed along behind
a pace car that gets faster with every lap.
Team Petty will pick you up from the Strip
and bus you (and any other speed demons)
to the Las Vegas Motor Speedway.
lReserve your seat well in advance
and don’t skimp on the Petty-provided picture
of you in the car. ELas Vegas Motor Speed-
way, 6975 Speedway Blvd., North Side
P800/237–3889 w www.1800bepetty.
com A$109 for basic ride-along; $159
for ride-along tour; $499 for Rookie
Experience COpen weather permitting,
call for schedules.
The Roller Coaster. There are two
reasons to ride the Coney
Island–style New York–New York roller
coaster (aka Manhattan Express): first,
with a 144-foot dive and a 360-degree
somersault, it’s a real scream; and second,
it whisks you around the amazing replica
of the New York City skyline, giving you
fabulous views of the Statue of Liberty,
Chrysler building, and, at night, the Las
Vegas lights—you climb to peak heights
around 200 feet above the Strip. Get ready
to go 67 MPH over a dizzying succession of
high-banked turns and camelback hills,
twirl through a “heartline twist” (like a jet
doing a barrel roll), and finally rocket
along a 540-degree spiral before pulling
back into the station. ENew York–New
York, 3790 Las Vegas Blvd. S, South Strip
P800/689–1797 w www.nynyhotelcasino.
com A$14, all day-ride pass $25 CSun.–
Thurs. 11–11, Fri.–Sat. 10:30 AM–midnight, weather permitting.
HSpeed—The Ride at Sahara. Launched
from inside the NASCAR Cafe, the roller
coaster uses magnetic technology to propel riders 25 feet down through an underground tunnel, around a loop, and in and
around the 192-foot tall Sahara marquee,
accelerating from speeds of 35 MPH to its
fastest speed of 70 MPH in two seconds.
You stop at 224 feet above the Strip,
then you do the entire path again—only
backwards. E2535 Las Vegas Blvd. S,
24 <
1
and tower day pass $33.95 CSun.–Thurs.
10 AM–1 AM, Fri. and Sat. 10 AM–2 AM.
HSun Buggy Fun Rentals. Create your own
little Paris-to-Dakar rally by renting a
dune buggy and hitting one of four adventure trails in the high desert, from the Nellis Dunes to the Valley of Fire. Consider
the guided tours, since the guides know
how to have the most fun in the vehicles. You’ll be covered in dirt and your
ears will be ringing by the end of the day,
but the adrenaline rush is without parallel. ELas Vegas Motor Speedway, 6825
Speedway Blvd., Bldg. B, Suite 101, North
Side P702/644–2855 or 866/728–4443
w www.sunbuggy.net/LasVegas AATV
$199, dune buggies $299 and up CDaily.
Vegas Indoor Skydiving. Here
you can get the thrill of skydiving without leaving the ground. A vertical wind tunnel produces a powerful
stream of air that lets you float, hover, and
fly, simulating three minutes of freefall
after 20 minutes of training. Airspeeds
reach 120 MPH. You can make reservations
a minimum of 48 hours in advance for
parties of five or more. It closes for private
parties from time to time; it’s wise to call
ahead. E200 Convention Center Dr.,
North Strip P702/731–4768 or 877/545–
8093 w www.vegasindoorskydiving.com
A$75 for first flight; $40 per additional
flight CDaily 9:45 AM–8 PM; classes every
½ hr.
HISTORY,
VEGAS-STYLE
by Matt Villano
HISTORY, VEGAS STYLE
Over the last few years, we’ve all heard the brilliant marketing slogan
“What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.” But a whole lot has happened in Vegas in the last few hundred years, and most of the stories
have made it into the history books.
Archaeologists believe civilization in
the area now known as Sin City
stretches back almost 2,000 years. This
once lush area was home to numerous
Native American tribes, including the
Kawaiisu, Kitenamuk, and Serrano. In
the 1820s, Spaniards traveling from
Mexico to northern California on the
Old Spanish Trail named the area “Las
Vegas” (meaning “The Meadows”).
When the area became part of the U.S.
in 1855, the name stuck.
The railroad arrived in 1905, and, over
the next decades, Las Vegas grew from
a rail hub to a leisure destination. The
Hoover Dam, built in the 1930s, played a
large part in development, but gambling
put the city on the map. Since 1940, Las
Vegas has seen casinos rise, fall, and rise
again—bigger than before. These casinos
have launched some of the greatest names
in show business, including Frank Sinatra,
Dean Martin, and Wayne Newton.
Today, Las Vegas and its environs (population: 2 million) shelter those who make
the casinos whir. And nothing here sits for
long; the town becomes hipper, bolder,
and more sophisticated every year. The
city is now home to 18 of the 21 largest
hotels in the world. From a place nicknamed Sin City, you’d expect nothing less.
IN FOCUS HISTORY, VEGAS-STYLE
North Strip P702/737–2111 w www.
saharavegas.com ASingle ride $10,
unlimited day pass (roller coaster and
Speedway rides) $22.95 CMon.–Thurs.
noon–8, Fri.– Sun. noon–10.
Stratosphere Thrill Rides. High
above the Strip at the top of
the Stratosphere Tower are three major
thrill rides that will scare the bejeezus out
of you, especially if you have even the
slightest fear of heights. Don’t even think
about heading up here if you have serious
vertigo. People have been known to get
sick just watching these rides.
The Big Shot would be a monster ride on
the ground, but starting from the 112th
floor—and climaxing at more than 1,000
feet above the Strip—makes it twice as
wild. Four riders are strapped into chairs
on four sides of the needle, which rises
from the Stratosphere’s observation pod.
With little warning, you’re flung 160 feet
up the needle at 45 MPH, then dropped
like a rock. The whole thing is over in less
than a minute, but your knees will wobble
for the rest of the day.
The X Scream tips passengers 27 feet over
the edge of the tower like a giant seesaw
again and again. Sit in the very front so
you’ll get an unobstructed view of the
Strip, more than 800 feet straight down!
Another unobstructed view can be seen by
dangling over the edge of the tower off
the arm of Insanity. The arm pivots and
hangs you out 64 feet from the edge of the
tower; then it spins you faster and faster,
so you’re lifted to a 70-degree angle by a
centrifugal force that’s the equivalent of 3
g-forces. E2000 Las Vegas Blvd. S, North
Strip P702/380–7777 or 800/998–6937
w www.stratospherehotel.com ATower
$15.95 adults; $10 kids, Big Shot $13,
XScream or Insanity $12, unlimited rides
1850
1885: State Land Act
attracts farmers.
1951: First Atomic
Bomb is detonated
north of Las Vegas.
1940
1960
(above) The Flamingo
Hotel; (below) Bugsy
Siegel; (top right) The
Rat Pack.
Industrialization
Arrives
U U1890s–1920s
U U1820s–90s
U U1500s–1800s
Spaniards settled the
area in the 1820s, but
John Fremont, of the
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, quickly followed
on a scouting mission in
1844. After annexation, in
1855, Brigham Young sent
a group of missionaries to
the Las Vegas Valley to convert a number of modern
Native-American groups,
including the Anasazi. The
missionaries built a fort that
served as a stopover for
travelers along the “Mormon
Corridor” between Salt Lake
City and a thriving colony in
San Bernardino, California.
Dissension among leaders
prompted the Mormons to
abandon Las Vegas by the
1860s, leaving only a handful of settlers behind.
1920
1941: El Rancho
Vegas, first hotel and
casino on the Strip.
Everything in Las Vegas
changed in the 1900s.
Just after the turn of
the century, local leaders diverted the spring
and resulting creek into
the town’s water system.
The spring dried up and
the once-vibrant meadows
turned into desert. Then, in
1905, the transcontinental
railroad came through on its
inexorable push toward the
Pacific. The city also began
to serve as a staging point
for all the area mines; mining companies would shuttle
their goods from the mountains into Las Vegas, then
onto the trains and out to
the rest of the country. With
the proliferation of railroads,
however, this boom was
short-lived.
Early
Casinos
1
Cultural artifacts indicate
that human settlers
including the Kawaiisu,
Kitanemuk, Serrano,
Koso, and Chemehuevi
occupied the area as far
back as the 100 or 200 A.D.
Archaeologists have said
the land would have been
hospitable—the region’s
artesian wells would have
provided enough water to
support small communities,
and skeletal remains indicate wildlife was prevalent.
It also stands to reason that
many of the earliest inhabitants took advantage of the
lush meadows after which
the region ultimately was
named; excavated pieces of
detailed weavings and basketry support these theories.
Early Settlers
1931: construction begins at
Hoover Dam sight. Population
booms. Gambling is legalized.
1911: Divorce laws are
liberalized in Nevada
1900
(left) Detail from poster
for John C. Fremont 1856;
(above) Las Vegas circa
1895; (right) construction
workers working Hoover
Dam spillway between
1936 and 1946.
Native
Occupation
1905: Las Vegas is
founded as a city.
Bugsy Takes
Charge
Las Vegans knew they
needed something to
distinguish their town
from the other towns along
the rails that crisscrossed
the United States. They
found it in gambling. The
Nevada State Legislature
repealed the ban in 1931,
opening the proverbial
floodgates for a new era
and a new economy. Just
weeks after the ban was
lifted, the now-defunct PairO-Dice opened on Highway
91, the stretch of road that
would later become known
as the Las Vegas Strip. The
city celebrated another
newcomer—dedicating the
Boulder (now Hoover) Dam
on the Colorado River in
1935.
No person had more of
an impact on Las Vegas’s
gambling industry than
gangster Ben “Bugsy”
Siegel. The Brooklyn,
New York native aimed to
build and run the classiest
resort-casino in the world,
recruiting mob investors to
back him. The result was
the Flamingo Hotel, which
opened (millions of dollars over budget) in 1946.
Though the hotel was met
with historic fanfare, it
initially flopped, making
Siegel’s partners unhappy
and suspicious of embezzlement. Within six months,
Siegel was “rubbed out,” but
the Flamingo lived on—a
monument to the man who
changed Vegas forever.
Rat Pack Era
U U1950s–60s
1800
1864: Nevada
becomes 36th
state.
U U1940s–50s
Precolonial Era
1855: Mormons
build fort.
U U1930s
1829: water-rich Las
Vegas valley (the
Meadow) gets its name.
TIMELINE
Frank Sinatra, Dean
Martin, Sammy Davis,
Jr., Peter Lawford, and
Joey Bishop were a
reckless bunch; upon
seeing them together,
actress Lauren Bacall said,
“You look like a goddamn
rat pack.” The name stuck.
The quintet appeared in a
number of movies—who can
forget the original Ocean’s
Eleven?—and performed live
in Las Vegas. Their popularity helped Sin City grow into
an entertainment destination. They also played an
important role in desegregation—the gang refused to
play in establishments that
wouldn’t give full service to
African-American entertainers, forcing many hotels to
abandon their racist policies.
TIMELINE
1971: Hunter
1966: Howard
Hughes arrives S. Thompson
in Las Vegas. writes Fear and
Loathing in Las Vegas.
1970s: Elvis Presley
and Liberace are Las
Vegas’s top performers.
1970
1980: MGM Grand catches
fire. It’s the worst disaster
in the city’s history.
1989: Steve Wynn
opens The Mirage
1980
1993: Work begins
on Fremont Street
Experience.
2001: Green Valley
Ranch Resort and
Spa opens.
1996: Las Vegas
Motor Speedway
opens.
1990
2000
2005: The
2010: The new Las Vegas
Wynn opens;
CityCenter is completed.
Las Vegas
celebrates its
centennial. 2010
BEYOND
(left) Howard Hughes; (center top)
Frank Rosenthal interviewing Frank
Sinatra; (center bottom) Elvis Presley;
(top) Liberace; (right top) Steve Wynn;
(right bottom) Siegfried and Roy; (right)
Bellagio’s dancing fountains.
Never fans of complacency, Vegas hoteliers
have continued to
innovate. Steve Wynn, of
Mirage and Bellagio fame,
opened arguably the city’s
most exquisite resort, Wynn
Las Vegas, in 2005. Sheldon
Adelson, CEO of Sands
Corporation, countered by
opening The Palazzo next
door to the Venetian, giving
the two properties 7,000
rooms combined. Off the
strip, multimillion dollar
mega-resorts such as the
Palms and Red Rock offered
more exclusive, intimate
experiences. Then, toward
the end of this decade,
Vegas experienced a new
trend: hotels without casinos of any kind, outfitted
for nothing but complete
relaxation.
What’s Next
U U2010 & Beyond
In all, more than a
dozen new mega-resorts
opened in the 1990s.
The Mirage, which opened
in 1989, started the domino
effect of new hotels up
and down the Strip. It was
followed by the Rio and
Excalibur in 1990; Luxor and
Treasure Island (now TI) in
1993; the Hard Rock Hotel
in 1995; the Stratosphere
and the Monte Carlo in
1996; Bellagio in 1998; and
Mandalay Bay, the Venetian
and Paris Hotel & Casino in
1999. These, coupled with
the $72-million, 1,100-acre
Las Vegas Motor Speedway, which took the city
from exclusively gambling
destination to a NASCAR
destination, made the city
incredibly visitor-friendly.
Tourists obliged, arriving in
record numbers.
Variations
on a Theme
U U2000s
The years immediately
following the mob
crackdown weren’t
pretty. The nation was in
a recession, and tourism
was down. Large fires at
major resorts such as MGM
Grand, Aladdin, and Monte
Carlo killed visitors and devastated the city’s economy
and image. Gradually, Las
Vegas recovered. Big corporations purchased hotels off
the scrap heap, and several
properties underwent major
renovations. With the help
of clever marketing campaigns, properties began
attracting tourists back to
experience the “new” Vegas.
In 1989, Steve Wynn opened
the city’s first new casino in
16 years—the Mirage—and
triggered a building boom
that persists today.
Age of the
Mega-Hotel
U U1990s
Elvis Presley made his
comeback in 1969 at
The International (now
the Las Vegas Hilton)
and played there regularly until the middle of the
next decade. In the same
era, East Coast mobsters
tightened their grip on
casinos, prompting a federal crackdown and forcing
some to return to the east
when gambling was legalized in Atlantic City, New
Jersey, in 1976. Frank “Lefty”
Rosenthal, largely seen as
the inventor of the modern sports book, narrowly
survived a car bomb in
1982. Others, such as Tony
“The Ant” Spilotro, were
not as lucky—Spilotro and
his brother, another casino
gangster, were beaten and
strangled to death in 1986
and buried in a cornfield in
Indiana.
Era of
Reinvention
U ULate 1980s–90s
Multimillionaire Howard
Hughes arrived in Vegas
in 1966 and began
buying up hotels: Desert
Inn, Castaways, New Frontier, Landmark Hotel and
Casino, Sands, and Silver
Slipper, to name a few. He
also invested in land—then
mostly desert—that today
comprises most of the
planned-residential and
commercial community of
Summerlin. Hughes also
wielded enormous political
and economic influence in
Nevada and nearly singlehandedly derailed the U.S.
Army’s plan to test nuclear
weapons nearby. His failure
in this matter led to a selfimposed exile in Nicaragua
until his death in 1976.
Mob Era
U U1960s–80s
U U1960s
A Maverick
Swoops in
1
In this decade Las Vegas
will continue to change.
The Las Vegas Springs
Preserve, an interactive
museum on the site
of the first settlement,
continues to grow with
the addition of the Nevada
State Museum in 2009. On
the strip, new hotels from
Steve Wynn and the storied
Fontainebleu also are in the
works. In perhaps the most
heralded development project in Vegas history, MGM/
Mirage opened the $8.5
billion City Center in late
2009, a multi-use complex
that comprises four hotel
properties, privately owned
condominiums and apartments, two casinos, and
nearly 100 restaurants. In
modern-day Las Vegas, size
means everything, and nothing is bigger than this.
30 <
> 31
E X P E RIENCE VEGAS HISTORY
1
Las Vegas celebrated its centennial in
2005, and although Sin City won’t likely
dethrone Philadelphia or Boston anytime
soon in the category of historic attractions,
this place does have a handful of genuinely engaging—if bizarre—diversions to
please history buffs. There’s a historic fort
preserving the city’s long-long-ago Mormon heritage and a museum dedicated to
the region’s (slightly creepy) history as a
nuclear-test site. Soon (in 2010 if government funding holds up), there’ll even be a
museum devoted to the town’s Mafia history. And you can be sure that most of the
things you learn here in Vegas were never
taught in the typical high-school history
class.
H Atomic Testing Museum. Today’s Las
Vegas is lit by neon, but during the Cold
War, uranium and plutonium illuminated
the area from time to time as well in the
form of a roiling mushroom cloud in the
distance. This museum commemorates
southern Nevada’s long and fascinating
history of nuclear weapons research and
testing with film footage and photographs
of mushroom clouds; testimonials; and
artifacts (including a deactivated bomb,
twisted chunks of steel, and bomb-testing
machinery from the Nevada Test Site).
Just 65 miles northwest of Las Vegas, this
desert waste was ground zero for dozens
of atomic bomb detonations between 1951
and 1962. Testing continued underground
from 1962 until 1992, when the United
States signed the Comprehensive Nuclear
Test Ban Treaty with 71 other countries.
After your visit, you can browse the gift
shop to see its Albert Einstein action figures and View-Master reels with 3-D
images of atomic testing.
Group tours of the 1,375-square-mi Nevada Test Site—that’s larger than the state
of Rhode Island—take you onto the terrain
for visits to test-site craters and observation
points. To register for a tour, contact the Nevada office of the National Nuclear Security
Administration (s Box 98518, Las Vegas,
89193 P 702/295–3521 w www.nv.doe.
gov). E 755 E. Flamingo Rd., Desert Re
search Institute, East Side P 702/794–
5161 w www.atomictestingmuseum.org
A $12 C Mon.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. noon–5.
Marjorie Barrick Museum of Natural History. This museum on the University of
Nevada–Las Vegas campus, has an excellent permanent collection of objects that
predate the arrival of Europeans in the
American Southwest and throughout Mexico. There’s also a live reptile exhibit featuring regional lizards and snakes, plus a
Xeriscape garden featuring drought-tolerant flora from the four corners of the Earth.
For kids, the best experience is the new
“archaeology dig” in the museum lobby,
where youngsters can jump into a (glorified) sandbox and excavate for cultural
treasures. E 4505 S. Maryland Pkwy.,
University District P 702/895–3381 w barrickmuseum.unlv.edu A $5 C Week
days 8–4:45, Sat. 10–2.
Neon Museum. A giant neon horseman
waves on the corner of Las Vegas Boulevard and Fremont Street. He’s the first
exhibit in the outdoor museum, a display of
neon signs retired from various old Vegas
landmarks. Others include the original
Aladdin’s lamp and the rider on horseback from the Hacienda Hotel. Until the
planned venue inside the La Concha Motel
lobby opens, the Neon Museum has loaned
some of its signs to the visitor center at
the Old Fort (which requires an entrance
fee). The Neon Museum also operates
what they refer to as their “boneyard”—a
3-acre plot that houses all of the unrestored
signs. Though it’s technically not open to
the public, Noble gas-o-philes are able to
visit by special appointment (depending
on when staff is available to lead tours).
E Downtown P 702/387–6366 w www.
neonmuseum.org A Free.
K Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort. Southern
Nevada’s oldest historic site was built by
Mormons in 1855 to give refuge to travelers along the Salt Lake–Los Angeles trail,
many of whom were bound for the California goldfields. Left to Native Americans
after the gold rush, the adobe fort was later
revitalized by a miner and his partners. In
1895 it was turned into a resort, and the
city’s first swimming pool was constructed
by damming Las Vegas Creek. Today the
restored fort contains more than half the
original bricks. Antiques and artifacts help
to re-create a turn-of-the-20th-century
Mormon living room. E 500 E. Washing
ton Ave., Las Vegas Blvd. N at Cashman
Field, enter through parking lot B, Down
town P 702/486–3511 w parks.nv.gov/
olvmf.htm A $1 C Mon.–Sat. 8–4:30.
(left) Nuclear test in the Nevada desert in 1951;
(top) Atomic Museum; (right) Neon Museum’s
boneyard.
32 <
Check Out the Razzle-Dazzle
> 33
CHECK OUT THE RAZZLE-DAZZLE
Wherever you find resorts in this town,
you’ll find crowd-pleasing wonders.
Festival Fountain and Fall of Atlantis shows at
Caesars. The laser-light show at the Fes-
Springs Preserve. This still-evolving, 180-acre
complex defies traditional categories, combining botanical gardens, hiking trails, live
animal exhibits, and an ultra-modern interactive museum, along with the new home for
the Nevada State Museum. The overarching
theme of the facility is the rich diversity and
delicate balance of nature in southern Nevada’s deserts. Kids love the simulations of
the flash-flood ravine, the recreated Southern
Paiute Indian village (complete with grass
huts!) and the green-themed, “Lawn Gobbler” Pac Man-style video game designed
to teach the importance of water conservation. There are also a few miles of walking
trails that swing you by archaeological sites
and may—if you’re lucky—bring you face
to face with some of the local fauna such as
bats, peregrine falcons, and Gila monsters.
The Café by Wolfgang Puck provides famished eco-explorers with sustainable choices,
like ethically raised cheeseburgers and environmentally mindful salads.
The Nevada State Museum, which provides
a balanced diet of traditional static displays
plus interactive and multimedia exhibits covering the history (natural and man-made) of
southern Nevada, was scheduled to relocate to
the preserve at the end of 2009. At press time,
the museum is still located at 700 Twin Lakes
Dr. E 333 S. Valley View Blvd., Downtown
P 702/822–7700 w www.springspreserve.
org A $18.95 C Daily 10–6.
Vegas Vic. The 50-foot-tall neon cowboy
outside the Pioneer Club has been waving
to Las Vegas visitors since 1947 (though,
truth be told, he had a makeover and was
replaced by a newer version in 1951). His
neon sidekick, Vegas Vicki, went up across
the street in 1980. E Fremont St. and Las
Vegas Blvd., Downtown.
(top left) The Springs Preserve; (top right) Fremont
Street; (right bottom) the iconic Vegas Vic.
tival Fountain, next to the Cheesecake
Factory, features an animatronic discussion between Bacchus, Venus, Apollo, and
Pluto. The Fall of Atlantis show, near the
aquarium, uses lifelike animatronic figures to recount the myth of Atlantis. Both
get crowded, so get there early for good
spots; don’t go out of your way to watch
either of these campy spectacles. ECaesars Palace, Center Strip P866/227–
5938 w www.caesarspalace.com AFree
CDaily 10–10, every hr on the hr.
HFountains of Bellagio. Bellagio’s signature
water ballet has more than 1,000 fountain nozzles, 4,500 lights, and 27 million
gallons of water. Fountain jets shoot 250
feet in the air, tracing undulations you
wouldn’t have thought possible, in perfect time with the music. The best view’s
from the Eiffel Tower’s observation deck,
directly across the street. Paris and Planet
Hollywood have restaurants with patios
on the Strip that also offer good views.
EBellagio, Center Strip P888/987–6667
w www.bellagio.com CWeekdays 3–7
every ½ hr, 7–midnight every 15 mins;
weekends noon–7 every ½ hr, 7–midnight
every 15 mins.
Fremont Street Experience. If you’re looking
for something a little different to do after
dark, head to this eardrum-rupturing,
eyeball-melting show that takes place on
the underside of a 1,450-foot arched canopy 90 feet overhead. The 12.5 million
synchronized LED modules, 180 strobes,
and eight robotic mirrors per block treat
your eyes, while the 208 speakers combine for 550,000 watts of fun for your
ears. The shows play five to seven times
a night depending on the time of year
and the six-minute presentations change
regularly. Parking’s a hassle (no cars are
allowed on this part of Fremont Street)
and the pedestrian mall’s bland—but the
overhead show’s worth the neck-ache.
EFremont St. from Main to 4th Sts.,
Downtown P702/678–5600 w www.
vegasexperience.com AFree CDaily.
Sirens of TI. If Saturday Night Fever and
Pirates of the Caribbean had a baby, it
would be something like this sexed-up,
20-minute outdoor spectacle. The musical naval battle between voluptuous
Sirens and a greedy gang of pirates is full
of groan-inducing lip-synched double
entendres, explosions, and backflips from
the crow’s nests. As historians note, the
finale mimics closely what happened at
the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805: a Siren
deejay scratches out a funky beat during an ensemble song-and-stomp routine. ETreasure Island Las Vegas (TI),
treasureislandlasvegas.com
AFree
C5:30 (winter only); 7, 8:30, 10, and
11:30 PM (summer only).
Volcano at Mirage. The erupting volcano
underwent a major face-lift in 2008 to
bring it up to speed with some of the
Strip’s other outdoor gimmicks. The
54-foot fountain is now surrounded by a
lake of miniature fire spouts. Several times
an hour the whole area erupts in flames,
smoke, and eerily backlit water that looks
like lava. Also new is the thundering
island percussion sound track designed
by Grateful Dead drummer Mickey Hart.
The best vantage point is near the main
drive entrance. EMirage, Center Strip
P800/374–9000 w www.themirage.com
AFree CDaily from 7 PM, every 15 mins.
1
34 <
Tee Off
> 35
T E E OFF
With an average of 315 days of sunshine
a year and year-round access, Las Vegas’s
top sport is golf. The peak season is any
nonsummer month; only mad dogs and
Englishmen are out in the noonday summer sun. However, most of the courses in
Las Vegas offer reduced greens fees during the summer months, sometimes as
much as 50% to 70% lower than peakseason fees.
If you want to play on a weekend, call
before you get into town, as the 8 to
11 AM time slots fill up quickly. Starting times for same-day play are possible
(especially during the week), but if you’re
picky about when and where you play,
plan ahead. Some of the big Strip resorts
have a dedicated golf concierge who can
advise you on a course that fits your
tastes and, in some cases, get you access
to private courses.
Best Courses
Bali Hai Golf Club. This islandtheme 18-hole, 7,002-yard,
par-72 course is dotted with palm trees,
volcanic outcroppings, and small lagoons.
The entrance is a mere 10-minute walk
from Mandalay Bay. The clubhouse
includes a pro shop and restaurant. Peak
greens fees begin at $265 midweek, going
up to $295 on weekends. E5160 Las
Vegas Blvd. S, South Strip P888/427–
6678 w www.balihaigolfclub.com.
Bear’s Best Las Vegas. Jack Nicklaus created this course by placing replicas of his
18 favorite holes (from the nearly 270
courses he’s designed worldwide) into a
single 7,194-yard par-72 course. If that
doesn’t make you reach for your ugly
pants, then consider that the clubhouse
has enough Nicklaus memorabilia to fill
a small museum. A huge dining area doubles as a banquet hall, and an even bigger
pavilion provides beautiful views of the
mountains and the Strip. Peak-season
greens fees are $165 during the week
and $250 on weekends. E11111 W. Flamingo Rd., Summerlin P866/385–8500
w www.bearsbest.com.
Las Vegas National Golf Club. Built in 1961,
this historic 6,815-yard par-72 course has
played host to Vegas royalty and golf’s
superstars over the years. Tiger shot 70 on
the final round of his first PGA Tour win
during the 1996 Las Vegas Invitational,
and Mickey Wright won two of her four
LPGA Championships here. You’ll find
five difficult par-3s and a killer 550-yard
par-5 at the 18th. Peak greens fees are
$79 during the week and $109 on weekends. E1911 E. Desert Inn Rd., East
Side P702/734–1796 or 866/731–4658
w www.lasvegasnational.com.
Paiute Golf Resort. You can play three Pete
Dye–designed courses here: Wolf, Snow
Mountain, and Sun Mountain. Snow
Mountain fits most skill levels and has
been ranked by Golf Digest as Las Vegas’s
best public-access course. Sun Mountain
is a player-friendly course but its difficult
par-4s make it marginally more challenging than Snow. Six of those holes measure longer than 400 yards, but the best
is the fourth hole, which is 206 yards over
water. Snow Mountain has wide fairways but also has its share of challenges,
especially if you stray into the treacherous rough. Wolf, with its island hole at
No. 15, is the toughest of the three and
arguably the most difficult in the area.
Greens fees at 7,146-yard, par-72 Snow
Mountain and 7,112-yard, par-72 Sun
Mountain go up to $139, and premium
weekend tee times on Wolf get into the
$159 range. If you want to play last-
minute, all courses offer great twilight
9-hole rates. E10325 Nu-Wav Kaiv
Blvd., Summerlin P702/658–1400 or
800/711–2833 w www.lvpaiutegolf.com.
Rhodes Ranch Golf Club. One of the better courses in the Las Vegas Valley, the
6,909-yard, par-72 Rhodes Ranch course
was designed by renowned architect Ted
Robinson to provide enough challenges
for any skill level—numerous water hazards, difficult bunkers, and less-than-even
fairways. Peak-season greens fees are $125
Sunday through Thursday and $135 Friday and Saturday; twilight rates are $65
and $75, respectively. E20 Rhodes Ranch
Pkwy., West Side P702/740–4114 or
888/311–8337.
Royal Links Golf Club. Similar in concept
to Bear’s Best, this 7,029-yard, par-72 is
a greatest-hits course, replicating popular holes from 11 courses in the British
Open rotation. You can play the Road
Hole from the famed St. Andrews, and
the Postage Stamp from Royal Troon.
It’s a rare chance to play links golf without having to cross an ocean, and the
Las Vegas weather usually has far more
sunshine and warmth. Also on-site is
Stymie’s Pub. Peak-season greens fees
are $175 weekdays, and $199 weekends. E5995 Vegas Valley Blvd., East
Side P702/450–8123 or 888/427–6678
w www.royallinksgolfclub.com.
TPC Las Vegas. The PGA manages this 7,063yard par-71 championship layout next to
the JW Marriott, complete with elevation
changes, steep ravines, and a lake. The
course is one of the venues for the Las
Vegas Invitational, a stop on the PGA Tour.
Fees are $235 during the week and $285
on weekends during peak season. E9851
Canyon Dr., Summerlin P702/256–2500
w www.tpc.com/lasvegas.
HThe Wynn Golf Club. Tom Fazio’s lavish urban golf course is built on the site
of the old Desert Inn Golf Course, but
bares little resemblance to the original.
You’re up against significant elevation
changes and water hazards are in the
mix on 11 of the 18 holes. The 37-foot
Wynn waterfall on the 18th hole caps the
7,042-yard, par-70 course. Open to hotel
guests only, the greens fee is $500. Play
here while you still can; plans are in the
works to turn this valuable acreage into a
convention center complex. EWynn Las
Vegas, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S, North
Strip P702/770–7100 or 877/321–9966
w www.wynnlasvegas.com.
36 <
Quirky Vegas
> 37
1
Q U I RKY VEGAS
We admit it, “quirky Las Vegas” almost
sounds redundant, but even beyond this
city’s expected wackiness, you can find
some wonderfully peculiar and offbeat
attractions.
Antique Collection at Main Street Station.
The hotel’s collection of antiques, artifacts, and collectibles include Louisa May
Alcott’s private railcar, a fireplace from
Scotland’s Prestwick Castle, lamps that
graced the streets of 18th-century Brussels, a variety of Victorian chandeliers,
and woodwork from American mansions
of long ago. There’s even a piece of the
Berlin Wall—where else—in the men’s
room off the lobby. E200 N. Main St.,
Downtown P800/713–8933 w www.
mainstreetcasino.com.
HAuto Collections at Imperial Palace. Collectively billed as the “world’s largest
classic car showroom,” the 250 antique,
classic, and special-interest vehicles inside
the IP’s “Auto Collections” exhibit will
keep gearheads entertained for hours. All
the vehicles on the lot are for sale, so the
collection is constantly changing. But at
any given time you might see “famous”
cars, like the Trans Am that acted as the
pace car at the 1983 Daytona 500, or cars
that once belonged to famous people, like
the ’39 Chrysler the late Johnny Carson
rode in to his senior prom. Many of the
cars are just vintage rides: a supercharged
’57 T-Bird, or the immaculate ’29 RollsRoyce Springfield Phantom I straight out
of The Great Gatsby. EImperial Palace,
3535 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Center Strip
P702/794–3174 w www.imperialpalace.
com A$8.95 CDaily 10–6.
Guardian Angel Cathedral. The Roman
Catholic cathedral often has standingroom only on Saturday afternoon, as visitors pray for luck—and sometimes drop
casino chips into the collection cups during a special tourist mass. Periodically, a
priest known as the “chip monk” collects
the chips and takes them to the respective
casinos to cash them in. Those staying on
the south end of the Strip might find the
Shrine of the Most Holy Redeemer (E55 E.
Reno Ave., South Strip P702/891–8600)
more convenient; it has three Saturday and
five Sunday masses. E302 Cathedral Way,
North Strip P702/735–5241 CWeekday mass 8 AM and 12:10 PM; Sat. mass
12:10 PM, vigil masses 2:30, 4, and 5:30;
Sun. mass 8, 9:30, 11, 12:30, and 5.
The Gun Store. The best remedy for a hard
day at the tables? Shooting things. The Gun
Store puts you on the range with a machine
gun of your choice. When you walk in
you’re greeted with a wall full of weapons,
most of which are available to rent. Pick
your era; hose the target a steady diet of
lead Cagney-style with a Thompson. World
War II buffs might go for an MP40 Schmeisser. Have a flair for the international?
Grab an Uzi or Sten. They’ve got handguns, rifles, and shotguns too. E2900 East
Tropicana Ave., East Side P702/454–1110
w www.thegunstorelasvegas.com AMachine gun rentals start at $50, handguns
$25 CDaily 9–6:30.
Haunted Vegas Tours. As you ride through the
streets of Las Vegas on this 2½-hour tour,
your guide, dressed as a mortician, tells
the tales of Sin City’s notorious murders,
suicides, and ghosts (including Bugsy Siegel, Elvis, and Tupac Shakur). A 30-minute Rocky Horror–like sideshow, called
Haunted Vegas, runs prior to the 21-stop
tour. The same company offers the Vegas
Mob Tour, which gives you a glimpse into
the city’s gangster past. Make reservations
in advance and note that kids have to be
13 for the Haunted tour and 16 for the
Mob tour. ERoyal Resort, 99 Convention
Center Dr., Center Strip P866/218–4935
w www.hauntedvegastours.com or www.
vegasmobtour.com A$66.25 CDaily 6 PM
(Mob Tour) and 9:30 PM (Haunted Tour).
Jubilee! All Access Backstage Walking Tour.
Admit it—you’re just as mesmerized by all
the sequins and fancy headpieces of a classic feather show as we are. On this tour, a
real showgirl (or male dancer, depending
on the day) escorts you backstage to see
firsthand the workings behind the curtains
for this $50 million stage production. The
hour-long tour shows you the mechanics of the stage, costumes, and dressing
rooms. Visitors must be 13 years or older
and should be able to move up and down
several cases of stairs. EBally’s, 3645 Las
Vegas Blvd. S, Center Strip P702/946–
4567 w www.ballyslv.com A$17; $12
with purchase of show ticket CMon.,
Wed., and Sat. 11 AM.
HLiberace Museum. If you’re out to find the
kitschiest place in town, this is the jackpot.
You’ll find costumes, cars, photographs,
even mannequins of the late entertainer in
addition to occasional musical events to
celebrate the masterfully flamboyant pianist. And although it’s set in a humdrum
shopping center away from the Strip, it’s
worth the trip to admire “Mr. Showmanship’s” trippy collectibles and memorabilia. In addition to the pianos (one of
them was played by Chopin; another, a
concert grand, was owned by George Gershwin), you can see his Czar Nicholas uniform and a blue-velvet cape styled after the
coronation robes of King George V. Be sure
to check out the gift shop—where else can
you find Liberace soap, ashtrays, and candelabras? E1775 E. Tropicana Ave., East
Side P702/798–5595 w www.liberace.org
A$15 CTues.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. noon–4.
HMadame Tussauds Las Vegas. Audition in
front of Simon Cowell or stand toe-totoe with Muhammad Ali as you explore
the open showroom filled with uncanny
celebrity wax portraits from the worlds
of show business, sports, politics, and
everywhere in between. Crowd-pleasers
include the figures of Tom Jones, Hugh
Hefner, Abe Lincoln, and, of course, the
cast of the High School Musical films. An
interactive segment lets you play golf with
Tiger Woods, shoot baskets with Shaquille O’Neill, play celebrity poker with
Ben Affleck, dance with Britney Spears, or
marry George Clooney. You can even vote
for the next celeb to be waxed. ENext
to the Venetian, 3377 Las Vegas Blvd. S,
mtvegas.com A$25 CSun.–Thurs. 10–9,
Fri. and Sat. 10–10.
Pinball Hall of Fame. In late 2009 the Las
Vegas Pinball Museum moved into a dedicated facility with more than 140 games
from all eras, including the old woodrail models of the 1950s and modern
games with fancy effects and complex
play. Though this may sound more like
an arcade than a museum, the local club
is a nonprofit organization whose goal is
to preserve this piece of Americana and
share the joy of the silver ball with as
many folks as possible. There’s even an
on-site Pinball Hall of Fame. All quarters
get donated to the local Salvation Army.
E1610 E. Tropicana Ave., East Side
PNo phone w www.pinballmuseum.
org AFree entry, 25¢ or 50¢ per game
CSun.–Thurs. 11–11, Fri. and Sat. 11
AM–midnight.
38 <
Works of Art
T R AVEL THE WORLD
W O R K S O F A RT
Yeah, yeah—we know you can’t substitute a ride down the canals at the Venetian
for a real trip to Venice, and the half-scale
replica of the Eiffel Tower doesn’t even
come close to the real McCoy in Paris. But
there’s no denying the allure of having so
many dramatic tributes to iconic attractions around the world all within the 702
area code. So go on, pose for a pic in front
of the Sphinx or feel like an international
high roller in the Monte Carlo casino—
there’s no other place we know of where
you can spend your entire vacation with
your tongue firmly planted in cheek.
Casino Hop the Strip
All right, globe-trotters. Get ready to jet
around the world without leaving the
Strip. Take in Southeast Asia (Mandalay
Bay), ancient Egypt (Luxor), Manhattan (New York–New York), the French
Riviera (Monte Carlo), Paris (ahem, at
the Paris), Italy (Bellagio), Rome (Caesars Palace), Venice (The Venetian), and
Greece (Greek Isles Casino).
Eiffel Tower Experience. Built exactly to a
half-size scale, the Las Vegas version of
the Parisian landmark rises above it all;
three legs of the tower come right through
the casino roof and are anchored amid
the gaming areas. The Eiffel Tower Restaurant is on the 11th floor and has its
own elevator (which you need a reservation to board). To get all the way to the
top, buy a ticket on the 10-person glass
elevator that ascends to the tower’s small
observation deck (a caged catwalk) at
the 460-foot level. Sure, the Stratosphere
is taller, but the Eiffel Tower offers an
incomparable view of the heart of the
Strip. Plan on waiting in line. But once
you’re up there, you can stay on the observation deck as long as you want. After
dark, watch the dancing-waters show
Sure, Las Vegas is the capital of kitsch, but
art connoisseurs have grudgingly accepted
the neon city’s burgeoning art scene.
World-renowned traveling art shows set
up shop at the Bellagio Gallery of Fine
Art. Über-developer and art collector Steve
Wynn has hung some of his more notable works in his namesake resort’s public
areas. For those in the market for a local
masterpiece, the Downtown Arts District
may just put Vegas on the international
arts map before all is said and done.
Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art. Recent exhibits
have featured works by Warhol and Lichtenstein. But you’re just as likely to see
works by Picasso, Hopper, and others.
EBellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Center
Strip P702/693–7871 or 888/957–9777
A$15 includes audio guide CSun.–Thurs.
10–5:30 PM, Fri. and Sat. 10–6:30.
City Center Fine Art Collection. There is free
art in Las Vegas, but we’re not talking
about statuesque blondes. The $8.5 billion City Center includes $40 million in
public art. Pieces range from sculptures
to paintings and elaborate fountains. Our
favorite: “Big Edge,” an amalgam of kayaks and canoes by Nancy Rubins. ECity
Center, Center Strip w www.citycenter.
com CDaily, 24 hrs.
Downtown Arts District. The emergence of
the offbeat 18b Arts District (so called
because it comprises 18 blocks bounded
by South 7th, Main, Bonneville, and
Charleston streets on downtown’s eastern
edge) continues to generate excitement in
the city’s arts community and, increasingly, among visitors. With a number of
funky, independent art galleries in its confines, the area, officially named in 1998, is
a growing, thriving cultural hub—think of
it as the Anti-Strip. In addition to the galleries—some of which contain impressive
at Bellagio, directly across the street.
EParis Las Vegas, 3655 Las Vegas Blvd.
S, Center Strip P702/946–7000 w www.
parislasvegas.com A$15 after 7:30 PM,
$10 before; Express passes $22 CDaily
9:30 AM–12:30 AM weather permitting.
Gondola Rides. Let a gondolier “o sole mio”
you down Vegas’s rendition of Venice’s
Canalozzo. We love this attraction because
it’s done so well—owner Sheldon Adelson
was obsessed with getting the canals just
right: he had them drained and repainted
three times before he was satisfied with
the hue, and the colossal reproduction of
St. Mark’s Square at the end of the canal
is authentic right down to the colors of
the façades. The gondoliers who ply the
waterway are professional entertainers
and train for two weeks to maneuver the
canals. It all makes for a rather entertaining way to while away an hour on
the Strip. Outdoor gondola rides along
the resort’s exterior waterway are also
available, weather permitting. A gondola
carries up to four passengers. EThe Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S, North Strip
P702/414–4300 w www.venetian.com
A$16 per person (gondolas seat 4) or
$64 total for a 2-seater CSun.–Thurs. 10
AM–11 PM, Fri. and Sat. 10 AM–midnight.
> 39
1
collections of locally known and worldfamous artists—you’ll find interesting eateries and dive bars to serve the alternative
artists, musicians, and writers who have
gravitated to the neighborhood. Each
month the district hosts a “First Friday”
gallery walk from 6 to 9 PM with gallery
openings, street performers, and entertainment. It’s an excellent time to come
check out the still-nascent but steadily
improving scene for yourself.
An intriguing concentration of antiques
shops and galleries is found on East
Charleston Boulevard and Casino Center Drive, anchored by the Arts Factory
(E107 E. Charleston Blvd., Downtown
P702/676–1111 w www.theartsfactory.
com AFree). This former warehouse
houses studios and galleries for art of all
types, including painting, photography,
and sculpture. The Arts Factory comes
alive on First Friday with gallery openings,
exhibits, receptions, and special events.
Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition. Travel down
to the bottom of the North Atlantic where
the “ship of dreams” rests after grazing
an iceberg in 1912. The 25,000-squarefoot exhibit includes a replica of guest
compartments, the grand staircase, and a
promenade deck some movie buffs will
recognize from that movie . . . can’t think
of the name just now. There’s plenty of
emotionally arresting artifacts: luggage,
clothing, a bottle of unopened champagne, and pieces of the ship including a
massive section of the iron hull, complete
with bulging rivets and portholes. EThe
Luxor, South Strip P702/262–4444
w www.luxor.com A$27, plus $6 for
audio tour CDaily 10–9.
40 <
Vegas and Kids
WA L K ON THE
W I L D(LIFE) SIDE
Ever since the animal-training icons Siegfried and Roy began their white tiger
magic acts at the Mirage in the 1960s,
wild animals have been just one more
part of the Vegas razzle-dazzle-’em campaign. And though the rest of Vegas isn’t
exactly child-appropriate, you can always
bank on one of the following exhibits to
enchant them.
Lion Habitat. This is as big a gamble as there
is in Las Vegas. Nine times out of 10 when
you walk through the see-through tunnel,
you’ll see the big cats snoozing above and
below. If you’re worried that the habitat
is a little cramped, take comfort that the
lions don’t actually live in Vegas. They’re
trucked in from animal trainer Keith
Evans’s 8½-acre ranch outside of town.
EMGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd.
S, South Strip P702/891–7777 w www.
mgmgrand.com AFree CDaily 11–10.
HShark Reef. You start your journey
through the mysterious realm of deep water
at the ruins of an old Aztec temple. Here the
heat and humidity may be uncomfortable
for humans, but it’s quite nice for the golden
crocodiles, endangered green sea turtles,
water monitors, and tropical fish. Descend
through two glass tunnels, which lead you
deeper and deeper under the sea (or about
1.6 million gallons of it), where exotic tropical fish and other sea creatures swim all
around you. Elsewhere you’ll find something like a petting zoo for marine life plus
a special jellyfish habitat. The tour saves the
best for last—from the bowels of a sunken
galleon, watch sharks swim below, above,
and around the skeleton ship. EMandalay
Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S, South Strip
P702/632–7777 w www.mandalaybay.
com A$16.95 adults, $10.95 under 12
CFri.–Sat. 10 AM–9 PM; Sun.–Thurs.
10 AM–7 PM.
> 41
1
VEGAS AND KIDS
Siegfried & Roy’s Secret Garden
& Dolphin Habitat. The palm-
shaded sanctuary has a collection of the
planet’s rarest and most exotic creatures.
Animals are rotated regularly, but at any
time you’re likely to see white tigers (several new cubs arrived in summer 2008),
as well as lions, a snow leopard, a panther,
and an elephant. (The tiger that mauled
Roy in 2003 is not on view.) Atlantic bottle-nosed dolphins swim around in a
2.5-million-gallon saltwater tank at the
Dolphin Habitat. Pass through the underwater observation station to the video
room, where you can watch tapes of two
dolphin births at the habitat. In addition
to the regular admission, there are VIP
edu-tours as well as a deluxe trainer-fora-day program that gets you up-close and
personal with the animals if you’ve got the
time and $500 or so. EThe Mirage, 3400
Las Vegas Blvd. S,Center Strip
P702/791–7188 w www.miragehabitat.
com A$15 adults, $10 under 12 CWeekdays 11–5, weekends 10–5.
HKWildlife Habitat at Flamingo. Just next
to the Flamingo’s pool area, a flock of
live Chilean flamingos, swans, ducks, koi,
goldfish, and turtles live on islands and in
streams surrounded by sparkling waterfalls and lush foliage. EFlamingo Las
Vegas, 3555 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Center
Strip P702/733–3111 w www.flamingolv.
com AFree CDaily 24 hrs.
Vegas megaresorts may be putting severe
restrictions on children, but there are still
a number of ways to keep kids occupied
here.
Ethel M Chocolate Factory. Watching gourmet chocolates being made will make
your mouth water; fortunately the tour is
brief and there are free samples at the end.
You can buy more of your favorites in the
store. This is a self-guided tour, so if your
youngsters start to get impatient, it’s your
own fault. Botanically inclined families
should check out the expansive cactus garden. E2 Cactus Garden Dr., Henderson
P702/458–8864 w www.ethelschocolate.
com AFree CDaily 8:30–4:30.
Las Vegas Natural History Museum. If your
kids are into animals (or taxidermy),
they’ll love this museum, where every
continent and geological age is represented. You’re greeted by a 35-foot-tall
roaring T-Rex in the dinosaur gallery that
features Shonisaurus, Nevada’s state fossil. From there, you can enjoy rooms full
of sharks (including live ones, swimming
in a 3,000-gallon reef tank), birds, cavemen, and scenes from the African savannah. Kids especially enjoy the various
hands-on exhibits; the Young Scientist
Center offers youngsters the opportunity
to investigate fossils and animal tracks up
close. After that, tour the Wild Nevada
Gallery, where kids can see, smell, and
even touch Nevada wildlife. E900 Las
Vegas Blvd. N, Downtown P702/384–
3466 w www.lvnhm.org A$10, $5 children 3–11 CDaily 9–4.
Lied Discovery Children’s Museum. The Lied
(pronounced leed) has more than 100
hands‑on exhibits covering the sciences,
arts, and humanities. It hosts several excellent traveling exhibits each year that can
range from cartoonish (“Clifford the Big
Red Dog”) to fun (“Grossology: The
Impolite Science of the Human Body”)
to depressing (“My Life as a Refugee”).
Children can play a laser harp, experience a hurricane, perform on a stage, and
more. E833 Las Vegas Blvd. N, Downtown P702/382–5437 w www.ldcm.
org A$8.50 adults, $7.50 children 1–17
CTues.–Fri. 9–4 (summer 10–5), Sat.
10–5, Sun. noon–5.
Old Nevada/Bonnie Springs Ranch. This
park has a zoo, riding stables, and a revivified Old West town. It’s a scene straight
from late-19th-century frontier life, complete with rustic buildings, blacksmiths,
livery stables, saloons, and the like. The
obligatory bank robbery leads to a staged
shootout between the outlaws and a sheriff’s posse, and three times a day there’s an
all-ages melodrama (hissing at the villain
is encouraged). j24 mi west of Las Vegas
on Charleston Blvd.E1 Gunfighter La.,
Blue Diamond, Outskirts P702/875–
4191 w www.bonniesprings.com A$20
per car; $55 per hr for horseback riding
CWed.–Sun. 10:30–6 (11–5 winter).
Southern Nevada Zoological–Botanical Park.
About a five-minute drive northwest of
downtown, you’ll find a diverse collection of animals, including a chimpanzee,
eagles, ostriches, emus, parrots, wallabies, flamingos, endangered cats (including lions and tigers), and every species
of venomous reptile native to southern
Nevada—150 species in all. An underwater exhibit stars an alligator named
“Sweetness.” E1775 N. Rancho Dr.,
West Side P702/647–4685 w www.
lasvegaszoo.org A$9, $7 children 2–12
CDaily 9–5.
42 <
Free Things To Do
K E E P YOUR MIND
I N T HE GUTTER
Bowling in Vegas will give you a new
appreciation for the sport most of us associate with bad haircuts and ugly shoes.
You’ll find elements of casinos, bars, and
nightclubs here; with lively crowds to
match. Locals take their leagues seriously,
so spare yourself some heartache and call
ahead to make a lane reservation.
Orleans Hotel and Casino. The Orleans is
in a working-class neighborhood, and its
70-lane bowling center sees lots of traffic, but its not-far-off-the-Strip location
also makes it a popular spot for visitors.
E4500 W. Tropicana Rd., West Side
P702/365–7111 w www.orleanscasino.
com CDaily, open 24 hours.
Red Rock Lanes. This 72-lane bowling alley
has all the amenities, including Cosmic
Bowling—glow-in-the-dark bowling with
a deejay—until 2 AM on Friday and Saturday nights. Roll on through until morning—it’s open 24 hours a day. If you’ve got
the bankroll, you can live the full nightclubplus-bowling dream with bottle service at
your own VIP Lanes. ERed Rock Casino
Resort Spa, 11011 W. Charleston Blvd.,
Summerlin P702/797–7467 w www.
redrocklasvegas.com
CMon.–Thurs.,
8 AM–2 AM; Fri.–Sun., 24 hours.
Sam’s Town. This is a 56-lane locals’ alley
where leagues and tournaments are taken
seriously. Tourists come for the cocktail
lounge, connecting casino, and “Extreme
Bowling Experience” starting at 11:45 PM
on Friday and Saturday nights that will
allow you to “strike out” in a night club
like never before. The scoring system
includes Spare Maker, so rookies know
where to aim. E5111 Boulder Hwy.,
Boulder Strip P702/456–7777 w www.
samstownlv.com CDaily, open 24 hours.
> 43
FREE THINGS TO DO
Silver Nugget Bowling. This alley has 24
lanes and new equipment, a pro shop,
and a modern automatic scoring system. Its version of Cosmic Bowling,
which includes fancy lights and a booming sound system, goes 8 PM–midnight
on Friday and 7 PM–midnight on Saturday. Weekend days you can rent lanes
by the hour, instead of paying per person per game. E2140 Las Vegas Blvd.
N, North Side P702/399–1111 w www.
silvernuggetcasino.net
CSun.–Thurs.
9 AM–9 PM, Fri. and Sat. 9 AM–midnight.
HSuncoast Hotel and Casino. Reflecting
its upscale Summerlin neighborhood, the
bowling center at the Suncoast, with 64
lanes, is designed to provide every hightech toy for bowlers. The alley sports Cosmic Bowling on Saturdays, and hosts a
number of different leagues throughout
the week. E9090 Alta Dr., Summerlin
P702/636–7111 w www.suncoastcasino.
com CDaily, open 24 hours.
Texas Star Lanes. This 60-lane alley at the
Texas Station Gambling Hall and Hotel
was the first to add the Cosmic Bowling
concept that’s since been imitated at alleys
all over town. It draws a youngish crowd,
so if you like to party while you bowl, this
is for you. Beginners like the “coach” feature on the scoring system that offers an
aiming point for spare pickups. E2101
Texas Star La., North Side P702/631–
1000 w www.texasstation.com CSun.–
Thurs., 7 AM–1 AM; Fri.–Sat., 7 AM–5 AM.
Yes, Vegas brims with cash, glitz, and
glamour, but that doesn’t mean you can’t
find freebies (or cheapies).
Experience Fremont Street. The downtown
casinos’ answer to the spectacle of the
Strip is the Fremont Street Experience,
played out on a 90-foot-high arced canopy that covers the entire street. Every
hour between sunset and midnight it
comes alive with Viva Vision—an integrated video, graphics, and music show.
Several different programs run each night,
and contribute to a festive outside-in communal atmosphere that contrasts with the
Strip’s every-man-for-himself ethic.
Watch a free show. You can easily spend
$100 or more on seats at a typical Vegas
concert or big-name production, but several casinos offer fabulous, eye-catching
extravaganzas that won’t cost you a
penny. There’s the erupting volcano at
the Mirage and the over-the-top Sirens of
TI at Treasure Island. Relax to the graceful Fountains of Bellagio, or see any of a
handful of free animal exhibits, like the
Lion Habitat at MGM Grand.
See the New Old Downtown. The downtown
casinos make no attempt to compete with
the opulence of the Strip, but Fremont and
connecting streets have a charm all their
own. For cheapskate gamblers, browse
through the Gamblers Bookstore and
then take advantage of the free slot pulls
and roulette spins offered at many of the
downtown casinos. You can also view
many of the Neon Museum’s signs along
Fremont as well. Head over to the emerging Downtown Arts District for free gallery tours and special events.
Be a Guinea Pig. Vegas is home to several
preview studios, where you’re asked to
watch and offer feedback on TV shows.
Some studios offer a small cash stipend
for your time, for others you’ll have to
be satisfied with free refreshments, coupons, and the thanks of a grateful nation.
We like CBS Television City research center
(E3799 S. Las Vegas Blvd., South Strip
P702/891–5752 CDaily 10–8:30) at the
MGM Grand. zNo kids under 10.
Cruise the Strip. You haven’t done Vegas
until you’ve been caught—either intentionally or unwittingly—in the slow-mo
weekend-night crawl of traffic down the
Strip. You can handle the experience like
a been-there local, or you can play the
delighted tourist: relaxed, windows down,
ready to engage in silly banter with the
carload of players in the convertible one
lane over. We suggest the latter, at least
once. Just be mindful of all the pedestrians, who can crowd the crosswalks like
belligerent cattle and are just as dazed as
you are by the cacophony.
Step Back in Time. Don’t miss out on the
opportunity to explore bits and pieces of
bygone days that are there if you look hard
enough. Drop by City Hall (E400 Stewart
Ave., Downtown w www.lasvegasnevada.
gov), and ask the reception clerk for a
copy of the Guide to Historic Las Vegas
that will point the way to two dozen
gems from the city’s past. Check out the
hacienda-style El Portal Theatre built in
1928 and the Mission-style 5th Street
and Westside schools. Beyond downtown,
Vegas is full of well-preserved examples
of fine architecture, midcentury—we like
the Morelli House—and modern, like
the geometrically intriguing Lied Discovery Museum. Wander through the older
hotels on the Strip and Downtown that
will, eventually and inevitably, be torn
down to make way for new construction.
You’ll be able to say you were there.
1
44 <
FODOR’S LAS VEGAS: EXPERIENCE LAS VEGAS
COPYRIGHT
Copyright © 2011 by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House, Inc.
T I E THE KNOT
Fodor’s is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc.
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Fodor’s Travel, a division of
Random House, Inc. Distributed by Random House, Inc., New York.
Vegas wedding chapels: They’re cute and
white. They’re flowers and neon and love
ever after (or at least until tomorrow’s
hangover). They’re also mighty quick,
once you get that marriage license.
A no-wait marriage certificate can be
yours if you bring $60, some identification (prison IDs are accepted on a case-bycase basis), and your beloved to the Clark
County Marriage License Bureau (E201 E.
Clark Ave., Downtown P702/671–0600).
It’s open from 8 AM to midnight (as well as
24 hours on holidays like New Year’s Eve
and Valentine’s Day). Down the street at
the Office of Civil Marriages (E309 S. 3rd
St., 1st fl., Downtown P702/671–0600),
a county official will do the deed for $50
cash (exact change and one witness are
required) from 8 AM until 10 PM any day
of the week. No appointment required.
HChapel of the Flowers. Enjoy a brief facsimile of a traditional ceremony at this
venue, designed to be a turnkey wedding
operation, with three chapels, on-site
flower shop, photography studio, and
wedding coordinators. Sure, it’s still Las
Vegas, so an Elvis impersonator is available for all ceremonies. E1717 Las Vegas
Blvd. S, North Strip P800/843–2410
w www.littlechapel.com.
Little Church of the West. This cedar-andredwood chapel is one of the city’s most
famous. The kitsch is kept under control,
and the setting borders on picturesque
(it’s even listed on the National Register
of Historic Places—ah, Vegas). No wonder it appealed to Angelina Jolie and Billy
Bob Thornton in 2000. E4617 Las Vegas
Blvd. S, South Strip P702/739–7971 or
800/821–2452 w www.littlechurchlv.com.
Little White Wedding Chapel. The list of
LWWC alums is impressive: Demi Moore
and Bruce Willis, Paul Newman and
Joann Woodward, Michael Jordan, Britney Spears, and Frank Sinatra. Patty Duke
liked it so much, she got married here
twice. Try the Hawaiian theme, where the
minister plays a ukulele and blows into
a conch shell to close out the ceremony.
Or, get hitched in a pink Cadillac while
an Elvis impersonator croons. E1301 Las
Vegas Blvd. S, North Strip P800/545–
8111 w www.littlewhitechapel.com.
HMadame Tussauds Las Vegas. The wax
museum now features the full-service Chapel of Dreams, where you and your beloved
can take a guided tour of the museum
before exchanging vows in front of a small
gathering of friends. For larger weddings
(or other events), you’ll want to book the
Spirit of America room downstairs. Imagine the delight on your grandmother’s face
when she sees the wedding pictures featuring you, your new spouse, and your guests
of honor: Zac Efron and President Obama.
ENext to the Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas
Blvd. S, North Strip P702/862–7800
w www.mtvegas.com.
Viva Las Vegas Wedding Chapel. An endless
variety of wedding themes and add-on
shtick is available, ranging from elegant to
casual to camp; say your vows in the presence of Elvis, the Blues Brothers, or Liberace. The chapel features a live webcam
on its Web site that lets you track the nuptials in real time. E1205 Las Vegas Blvd. S,
North Strip P702/384–0771 or 800/574–
4450 w www.vivalasvegasweddings.com.
No maps, illustrations, or other portions of this work may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the publisher.
Excerpted from Fodor’s Las Vegas (ISBN 978-1-4000-0486-7).
AN IMPORTANT TIP & AN INVITATION
Although all prices, opening times, and other details in this work are based on information supplied to us at publication, changes occur all the time in the travel world, and
Fodor’s cannot accept responsibility for facts that become outdated or for inadvertent
errors or omissions. So always confirm information when it matters, especially if you’re
making a detour to visit a specific place. Your experiences—positive and negative—
matter to us. If we have missed or misstated something, please write to us. We follow up
on all suggestions. Contact the Las Vegas editor at editors@fodors.com or c/o Fodor’s at
1745 Broadway, New York, NY 10019.
ENRICH YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH FODORS.COM
Research your destination. Talk to like-minded travelers. Get great deals. Sign up for
Fodor’s weekly newsletter.
PHOTO CREDITS
8-9, Travel Pix Collection/age fotostock. 11, Tomasz Rossa. 12 (top right), Artifan/shutterstock. 12 (top left), Hank Delespinasse/age fotostock. 12 (bottom right), LVCVB. 12
(bottom left), Ian Dagnall/Alamy. 14, Buzz Pictures/Alamy. 15 (left), Las Vegas News
Bureau/LVCVA. 15 (right), Corbis. 20 (left), Tomasz Rossa. 20 (top center), MGM
Mirage. 20 (top right), Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort. 20 (bottom right), Hervè
Donnezan/age fotostock. 21 (left), David Zanzinger/Alamy. 21 (top center), Brent Bergherm/age fotostock. 21 (bottom center), JTB Photo/Alamy. 21 (right), Richard Cummins/
viestiphoto.com. 22, maggiejp/flickr. 23, Liane Cary/age fotostock. 25, Pictorial Press Ltd/
Alamy. 26 (left and right), Library of Congress Prints & Photographs Division. 26 (center), wikipedia.org. 27 (top left), Harrah’s Entertainment. 27 (bottom left), UPPA /Photoshot/Newscom. 27 (right), Pictorial Press Ltd/Alamy. 28 (left), wikipedia.org. 28 (bottom
center), Content Mine International/Alamy. 28 (right), Pictorial Press Ltd/Alamy. 29 (top
left), UPI/Newscom. 29 (bottom left), ZUMA Press/Newscom. 29 (right), LOOK Die
Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH/Alamy. 30 (left), National Nuclear Security Administration/Nevada Site Office. 30 (right), Atomic Testing Museum. 31, Roadsidepictures/
Flickr. 32 (left), Studio J. 32 (top right), Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas. 32 (bottom
right), Roadsidepictures/Flickr. 34, david sanger photography/Alamy. 35, Ron Niebrugge/
Alamy. 36, Kevin Foy/Alamy. 37, Ethan Prater/flickr. 38, angelo cavalli/Marka/age fotostock. 39, Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art. 40, MGM Mirage. 41, LVCVB. 42, José María
Riola/age fotostock. 43, Darius Koehli/age fotostock. 44, Lola’s Big Adventure!/flickr

Experience Las Vegas

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