GRIGRI EXPERIENCE

GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE
To go beyond...
Welcome to “Product Experience”.
Here you will find known usage techniques for certain products.
This technical information comes from the product knowledge of the Petzl team and from the
experience of users worldwide.
The level of experience necessary to perform each technique is indicated by a pictogram (see
opposite): beginner, certified, or expert.
Our goal is to (eventually) offer a complete set of techniques.
Your help is important to us; do not hesitate to give us your comments and suggestions.
Thank you and good reading.
The Product Experience
• is a supplement to the information in the Instructions For Use.
• is inseparable from the Instructions For Use.
Important / rEMEMBER
• Read the instructions for use carefully before looking at the following techniques.
• You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions For Use to be
able to understand this supplementary information.
• Mastering these techniques requires specific training.
• Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and
independently before attempting them unsupervised.
FAILURE TO HEED ANY OF THESE WARNINGS MAY RESULT
IN SEVERE INJURY OR DEATH
Legends
Beginner technique
Technique usable by a trained
practitioner of the activity
Anchor
Hand
Technique for a certified
practitioner
Load
Harnesses
Technique for a person trained and
certified in the activity
Climber
Victim
Expert technique
Fall
Technique only for experts in the
activity
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
1
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Summary
• Reminder of rope compatibility: GRIGRI and GRIGRI2
p. 3
> Belaying / Protecting
• Belaying reminders: errors to avoid
• Dynamic belaying
• Belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground: WARNING, Danger!
• Unblocking a rope that is jammed behind the cam
• Multipitch climbing
- Belaying a second with the GRIGRI on the harness, using a directional
- Belaying a second directly off the anchor
• A Self-belaying is prohibited!
p. 4
p. 8
p. 9
p. 10
p. 11
p. 11
p. 12
p. 13
> Descending
•
•
•
•
•
•
Descending on one strand of rope
Descending on one strand with additional braking
Tying off the GRIGRI to have your hands free
Lowering with the GRIGRI on the harness, using a directional
Lowering from a fixed anchor-point
Self-lowering
p. 14
p. 16
p. 16
p. 17
p. 18
p. 19
> Climbing / Progressing
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
• Occasional rope climbing
• Tensioning a tyrolean D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
p. 20
p. 21
2
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Introduction
Today, GRIGRI use is widespread. It can be found at crags, gyms,
and in the mountains... Used mainly as a belay device, it has other
uses that are explained below.
WARNING, as with all climbing and mountaineering activities, it is essential to master
the techniques and understand the limitations on using this product in these activities.
Practice the techniques presented in a safe environment before using them in a real
situation.
• Reminder of rope compatibility
GRIGRI and GRIGRI2
Both GRIGRI are compatible with single dynamic ropes (CE EN 892). Only the approved rope diameters
differ. WARNING, even if you use a rope in the approved diameter range, you must be vigilant concerning
the functioning of the GRIGRI with this rope.
The compatibility between the GRIGRI and the rope used is dependent on more than just the rope’s
diameter. The rope’s texture, sheath treatments on new ropes, moisture, the state of wear, and ice play an
important role in the performance of your GRIGRI, in belaying, and also in descending.
Whenever you need to use a rope other than your usual rope, take care and familiarize yourself with
its behavior with the GRIGRI in belaying and descending.
GRIGRI2
GRIGRI
ropes mm
8,9 9
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
10
11
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
3
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Belaying / Protecting
• Belaying reminders: errors to avoid
Remember that the correct technique for belaying is as follows.
For effective and secure belaying, this is the technique to use.
- Primary belaying position.
Giving slack
Always hold
the braking side
of the rope.
Taking up slack
Giving slack
Giving slack
Stopping a fall
Taking up slack
Stopping a fall
Stopping a fall
Taking up slack
- Giving slack quickly.
1
Hold the rope
2
The index finger
supports
the GRIGRI
The thumb
presses on
the cam
The rope
is still held
(3 fingers
minimum)
3
The thumb
presses on
the cam
This action must be momentary. Once the leader has clipped, your hand must return to the primary belaying position. Continuous
contact with the device can lead to misuse.
This technique allows the braking side of the rope to always be held by the hand (with at least three fingers) and it limits the risk of
blocking the cam’s action.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
4
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
We place great emphasis on the need to hold the braking side of the rope.
But why?
The term “belay device with assisted braking,” which describes the GRIGRI, indicates that it is not an autolocking device. In fact,
you may notice that if you slide your rope slowly through the device (especially for small diameter rope), it does not necessarily
lock, and the rope slides freely through it. It’s when you pull the braking side of the rope that the cam rotates to brake the rope.
It is also important to stress the fact that any blocking of the device or the cam will negate the braking action on the rope. This is
why it is essential to avoid: grasping the device with your whole hand, keeping your thumb permanently on the cam, blocking the
cam, etc.
Here are three examples of causes of a ground fall, seen at the crags or in the gym.
1 - Incorrect GRIGRI belay techniques
It is difficult to make an exhaustive list of all incorrect techniques. Here are some illustrations:
I hold the GRIGRI with my entire hand
I give slack without holding
the braking side of the rope
I incorrectly place my index finger
I hold the climber side of the rope
Note that the use of incorrect belay technique is the primary risk factor in an accident, especially when the belayer is surprised by a
fall. If you recognize yourself in any of these illustrations of incorrect technique, adopt the technique presented at the beginning of
this paragraph.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
5
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
2 - Bad reflexes
When a person is surprised while holding an object in the hand, one of the first reflexes is to hold that object more tightly. Imagine
this situation in the case of a belayer holding a GRIGRI with the whole hand, at the moment the climber falls...
In this case, the belayer clenches the GRIGRI, without holding the braking side of the rope, and the climber falls to the ground.
Another bad belayer reflex is to grip the climber’s side of the rope.
In this case, the belayer burns his hand with the rope and worse, prevents the GRIGRI’s cam from rotating, which then cannot
brake the rope. Here also, the climber falls to the ground.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
6
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
3 - Belayer inattention The belayer is talking, looking elsewhere...
Look at this example: the belayer, hands in pockets, is not at all attentive to the climber, who is in the process of
clipping with far too much slack...
To finish, ground falls are often the result
of multiple factors: poor technique, inattention, etc.
It is up to you to limit these factors.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
7
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Belaying / Protecting
• Dynamic belaying
Some think it is difficult to
belay dynamically with the
GRIGRI. But it is the belayer,
not the belay device, that plays
the primary role in dynamic
belaying.
The key to dynamic
belaying: step or make a
small jump forward when the
climber falls. We also stress
that dynamic belaying does
not mean keeping 3-4 m of
slack in the climber’s side of
the rope: this does not reduce
the force of a fall. In addition,
in the case where the climber
has not gained enough height,
it increases the risk of a ground
fall.
In any case, it is necessary to
be attentive and vigilant while
belaying, so that potential falls
can be anticipated. Remember
that where there is a risk of a
ground fall, or striking a ledge,
a dynamic belay should not be
used.
It takes practice to master
dynamic belaying. To practice,
start with falls sufficiently high
relative to the ground (for
example, when the climber is
nearing the end of a pitch).
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
8
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Belaying / Protecting
• Belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground: WARNING, Danger!
This technique is strongly discouraged because it has been the root cause of many ground falls. In fact, if the GRIGRI is positioned
at the wrong height for the belayer, he risks involuntarily blocking the cam and preventing it from braking the rope.
In addition, with a GRIGRI anchored to the ground, controlling the descent is more difficult than with the GRIGRI on the belayer
because the weight of the climber cannot be felt. Finally, this technique does not allow for dynamic belaying.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
9
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Belaying / Protecting
• Unblocking a rope that is jammed behind the cam
In certain specific cases (for example, assisting the climber in regaining a high point after a fall, GRIGRI fixed on a carabiner
attached to two points, rope climbing, etc.), the rope can become jammed behind the cam. Don’t worry: this jamming does not
damage the rope. Our internal testing shows that even with the smallest diameters, the rope remains intact, even if the climber
falls. Note also that even with the rope in this position, the cam functions normally and the climber’s fall will be arrested.
Unjamming the rope is simple. Always hold the braking side of the rope when performing this action. If the rope is not under
tension, push on the side of the device to reposition the climber side of the rope in the cam groove. If the rope is already under
tension, simply pull on the braking side of the rope.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
Initial state: the rope is jammed
Unjamming, if the climber side of the
rope is under tension: pull on the braking
side of the rope
Initial state: the rope is jammed
Unjamming, if the climber side of the
rope is not under tension: push on the
device to reposition the climber side of the
rope in the cam groove
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
10
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
The GRIGRI can be used to belay on multipitch routes.
> Belaying / Protecting
• Multipitch climbing
Belaying a second with the GRIGRI on the harness, using a directional
This is the recommended technique for belaying the second.
Install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right
direction. Connect the GRIGRI to the harness with a locking carabiner. Lock the
carabiner. Pass the climber’s side of the rope through a directional carabiner,
placed above the belay anchor. Do a function test as indicated in the Instructions
for use.
STOP !
STOP !
Take up slack
as the second climbs.
STOPregularly
!
Never let go of the braking side of the rope. To
arrest a fall, firmly grip the braking side of the
rope while pulling downward on it.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
11
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Belaying / Protecting
• Multipitch climbing
Belaying a second directly off the anchor
Install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right direction.
Connect the GRIGRI to the anchor with a locking carabiner. Lock the carabiner. Do a
function test as indicated in the Instructions for use.
Make sure to avoid any
blocking of the device, or of
the cam, as this will negate
the braking action on the
rope.
Take up slack regularly as the
second climbs, always holding
the braking side of the rope.
This method of belaying the
second is less than ideal: in
this position, the GRIGRI’s
braking action on the rope
is not optimal (especially
with thin ropes). In addition,
the risk of blocking the cam
is greater. We therefore
recommend the preceding
technique, using a directional
point.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
12
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Belaying / Protecting
• Self-belaying is prohibited!
We cannot ignore the fact that some people use the GRIGRI as a self-belay device. Many
internet sites give tips on modifying your device for this use.
Above all, this technique increases the risks to the climber.
Firstly, the climber does not hold the braking side of the rope.
Additionally, in case of a fall, the GRIGRI can be blocked against the rock, the positioning
system (positioning strap), or other, thus negating its braking function. The climber could
fall to the ground. Finally, remember that any product modification outside of PETZL facilities
is formally prohibited (see Instructions for use).
Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
13
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Descending
• Descending on one strand of rope
The GRIGRI can be used to descend on one strand of rope.
While tethered to the belay anchor, install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right direction.
Connect the GRIGRI to the harness with a locking carabiner.
Lock the carabiner.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
14
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Take up the slack rope. When ready to descend, do the function test and remove your lanyard from the belay anchor
while holding the braking side of the rope.
To descend, pull the handle while holding the braking side of the rope. The handle can assist in braking, but the rate
of descent is controlled by the brake hand gripping the braking side of the rope. Always hold the braking side of the
rope.
Do not forget to tie a knot in the bottom end of the rope.
IN
G
BRAK
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
BRAKING
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
15
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Descending
• Descending on one strand with additional braking
With thin ropes, it is often more comfortable and secure to add friction on descents.
For this, use a FREINO carabiner or a non-locking carabiner.
FREINO
Non-locking carabiner
• Tying off the GRIGRI to have your hands free
When you want to have
your hands free to perform
a manipulation, tie-off the
GRIGRI. Make sure to correctly
lock the tie-off. You may let
go of the braking side of the
rope only when the device is
tied off.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
16
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Descending
• Lowering with the GRIGRI on the harness, using a directional
Install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right
direction. Connect the GRIGRI to the harness with a locking carabiner. Lock the
carabiner.
Pass the climber’s side of the rope through a directional carabiner, placed above
the belay anchor.
The belayer takes up slack. The climber, hanging on the rope, is ready to descend.
The belayer pulls the handle while holding the braking side of the rope. Never let go of the braking side of the rope.
Accessories /
Accessoires
FREINO
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
17
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Descending
• Lowering from a fixed anchor-point
If you need to lower a person from an anchor:
Install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right
direction. Connect the GRIGRI to the anchor with a locking carabiner. Lock the
carabiner.
Add a directional carabiner. This must be placed above the carabiner connecting
the GRIGRI to the anchor.
The belayer takes up slack and holds the braking side of the rope. The person being lowered puts his weight on the rope
and disconnects from the anchor. To lower the person, the belayer pulls the handle while holding the braking side of the
rope. Never let go of the braking side of the rope.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
18
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Descending
• Self-lowering
Pass one end of the rope through the rappel maillon. Tie-in
to this end. Install your GRIGRI on the free end of the rope.
Connect the GRIGRI to the harness with a locking carabiner.
Lock the carabiner. Take up the slack rope. When ready to
descend, do the function test and remove your lanyard from
the belay anchor while holding the braking side of the rope.
To descend, pull the handle while holding the braking side
of the rope. The handle can assist in braking, but the rate of
descent is controlled by the brake hand gripping the braking
side of the rope. Always hold the braking side of the rope.
Do not forget to tie a knot in the bottom end of the rope.
IN
G
BRAK
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
BRAKING
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
19
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Climbing / Progressing
• Occasional rope climbing
The GRIGRI is useful for short rope ascents. It is also used on big walls in cleaning (useful
for cleaning slab pitches).
Tether yourself to your ascender.
Always hold the braking side of the rope.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
20
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
> Climbing / Progressing
• Tensioning a tyrolean
Fix one end of the rope to an anchor point. Install the other end of rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device
in the right direction. Connect your GRIGRI to a second anchor point with a locking carabiner. Lock the carabiner. Do a
function test as indicated in the Instructions for use. Tension the rope by taking out all slack. The tyrolean must be hand
tensioned by one or two people, without using a mechanical advantage pulley system. Note that the shorter the tyrolean,
the harder it is to correctly tension the rope.
or /ou
or /ou
WARNING, once the rope is taut between the two anchors, you must tie-off the rope against the GRIGRI.
WARNING, a tyrolean creates a very high load on the anchor points. Make sure the
anchor points are sufficiently strong.
Falls are prohibited on tyroleans.
WARNING, overloading the tyrolean can completely lock the GRIGRI onto the rope, making it difficult to unlock.
The GRIGRI is not guaranteed if you break the handle because your tyrolean is tooortight.
/ou
Unlocking tip: use a TRAXION pulley (or other ascender) placed on your tyrolean as shown. Pull on the free end to create
slack between the TRAXION pulley and the GRIGRI. Pull the handle.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2
D145030A (180111)
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
21