installation instructions for the motor trike harley

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE
MOTOR TRIKE HARLEY-DAVIDSON FLT
6° RAKE KIT
Thank you for choosing the Motor Trike Rake Kit. We ask that you read the
directions before you start and follow them very closely. Doing so will save you time and
ensure that the customer’s experience with their new rake kit is a positive one.
It is critical that proper eye wear, ear protection, and protective clothing is worn
throughout this rake kit installation.
Failure to secure this vehicle during installation could result in injury up to and
including death.
If you do not have the proper tools to do this installation, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
PERFORM THE INSTALLATION.
When placing your order please remember to provide the bike year and model. This
information is necessary for you to receive the correct parts.


If you are ordering for a 1995 to 2001 bike you will need to order MTFS-0009
If you are ordering for a 2002 to current bike you will need to order MTFS-0010
If you are ordering a kit for a Road King you must purchase a Road King Rake Kit
Adapter (MTFS-0051) in addition to the Rake Kit.
When you receive your kit, please check to ensure that all parts and hardware are
included. Use the supplied assembly drawing as an aid.
If there are any parts missing or if you have any questions concerning the kit at
this time call Motor Trike at 1-800-90TRIKE (800-908-7453) Mon-Fri 8am-5pm CST.
Or you can email us at INFO@MOTORTRIKE.COM
This written procedure is based on an installation performed on a 2010 Ultra
Classic. It may vary for different years and/or models.
Motor Trike Inc. reserves the right to change specifications, equipment, or designs at any
time without notice and without incurring obligation.
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PROCEDURE
1. Before you start to work, cover the fuel tank, side fairings, and front fender to
protect them during the installation process. See Figure 1.
Figure 1
2. Remove the windshield by removing the three T27 Torx screws at the bottom of
the windshield. See Figure 2.
Figure 2
3. Remove the front of the fairing by removing the T27 Torx bolt in front of each
handle bar grip and the T27 Torx bolts just inside of the down tubes. See Figure 3.
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Figure 3
4. Remove the stereo head unit by removing two socket head cap screws from each
side of the head unit with a 3/16” Allen wrench. Unplug the stereo connectors.
See Figure 4.
Figure 4: Stereo Fasteners. Right Side
5. Remove the tension from the clutch cable by loosening the adjustment nut behind
the front tire. See Figure 5.
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Figure 5
6. Remove the snap ring from the bottom of the clutch handle pivot pin. See Figure
6.
Figure 6
7. With the cable loose and snap ring removed, you will be able to remove the clutch
handle pivot pin, then the handle, and then the clutch cable pin. See Figure 7.
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HANDLE
HANDLE
PIVOT
CABLE
PIN
Figure 7
8. With the end of the cable free, feed the cable back through the fairing to allow
removal of the fairing. See Figure 8. Note: If the bike has a throttle cable that runs
through the fairing like the clutch cable, it must also be fed through the fairing
before fairing removal.
Figure 8
9. Disconnect the ground cable from the top triple tree. See Figure 9.
Figure 9
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10. Disconnect the running lights and remove them by loosening the two T40 Torx
bolts on each down tube. See Figure 10.
Figure 10
11. Remove only the lower bolt from each side to remove the lower chrome cover.
See Figure 11.
Figure 11
12. Disconnect any electrical connectors that need to be disconnected before
removing the fairing. Remove the top T40 and T27 Torx bolt from each side.
Carefully remove the fairing. See Figure 12 and Figure 13.
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Figure 12
Figure 13
13. With the fairing removed, disconnect the front brake calipers from the down tubes
by removing the two 12 point 10 mm bolts from each side. See Figure 14. Gently
hang the brake calipers to keep from damaging the flexible brake lines. If the bike
is equipped with a front crash bar, it is a convenient place to hang the calipers.
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Figure 14
14. Remove the brake line tee block from the bottom of the lower triple tree, using a
T40 Torx tool. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
15. Remove the fork tube cap bolts along with the seals. Use a 1-3/8” socket. These
will be reused. See Figure 16.
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Figure 16
16. 2001 and older bikes have air forks which use a fork tube cap that have a hole
down the center and are about an inch longer than what is shown in Figure 16.
Bikes with air forks will have air fitting like what is shown below in Figure 17. If
the bike is a Road King, remove these from the fork tube cap bolts. They will be
reused on all other 2001 and down bikes.
Figure 17
17. Loosen both pinch bolts in the lower triple tree using a 5/8” socket. See Figure 18.
Figure 18
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18. Lift the front of the bike up slowly by jacking under the front of the frame. This
will allow you to remove the down tubes/front wheel assembly. See Figure 19.
Figure 19
19. Break the fork stem nut loose with a 1-½” socket. Do not remove. See Figure 20.
FORK STEM
NUT
Figure 20
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20. Remove handle bars by removing the two 1/2” bolts with a ¾” socket underneath
the top triple tree. See Figure 21.
Figure 21
21. Disconnect the steering lock and lower plastic cover from the top tree by
removing the two socket head cap screws with a 5/32” Allen wrench. See Figure
22.
Figure 22
22. Remove the top tree by removing the fork stem nut and washer. See Figure 23.
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Figure 23
23. Remove the stock lower tree by removing the bearing adjuster nut and pulling the
steering stem, which is welded to the lower triple tree, down and out of the
steering neck. See Figure 24.
Figure 24
24. Remove the decorative fork covers by removing the two ¼” bolts from each side
of the tree with a 3/8” wrench.
Figure 25
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25. Wipe the lower bearing race off and inspect the race to determine if it is necessary
to replace it. If there are any scratches, blemishes, or scoring on the surface of the
bearing race, replace the bearing race. If the bearing race surface is completely
smooth, then it may be reused.
26. To replace the lower bearing:
a. Knock out the old bearing with a screwdriver from the top. There are
mouse holes on the front and back of the steering neck, when looking
down into the neck, that aid in knocking the lower race out. See Figure 26.
Figure 26
b. Tap the new supplied bearing race into the lower end of the steering neck.
Make sure to tap the bearing race into the steering neck evenly. Use a tool
that will not damage or dent the bearing race. The race is seated when the
sound of tapping on the bearing becomes solid. Visually inspect the race
to make sure it seated properly.
27. Inspect the upper bearing and race for any signs of wear or failure.
28. Pack the lower bearing on the steering stem of the rake kit with new grease.
29. Install the new lower triple tree on the bike frame by putting the steering stem up
through the steering neck and screwing the stock bearing adjuster nut on the
steering stem. See Figure 27. Do not forget to put the dust cap under the bearing
adjuster nut.
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DUST CAP
ADJUSTER
NUT
Figure 27
30. Snug the bearing adjuster nut, by using a screwdriver or pin, until bearing play is
taken up and the steering stem/lower tree turns freely. Over-tightening the bearing
adjuster will cause excessive bearing wear.
31. Install the decorative fork covers onto the lower triple tree using the four supplied
¼ bolts using a 3/16” Allen wrench. The seam on the covers goes towards the
back of the bike. See Figure 28.
Figure 28
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32. Install the top triple tree using the stock washer and the stock fork stem nut. See
Figure 29. Do not torque the fork stem nut, just get it hand tight.
FORK STEM
NUT
STEM
WASHER
Figure 29
33. Install the steering lock with the stock bolts using a 5/32” Allen wrench. See
Figure 30 and Figure 22. If the bike is a Road King replace the steering lock with
the Road King Lock Standoff (MTFS-0052 supplied in MTFS-0051).
34. Remove the 4 handle bar bushings and 2 bushing sleeves from the stock top triple
tree and install them in the new top triple tree. The handle bar risers go on top of
the top triple tree. See Figure 30.
HANDLE BAR
RISER
BUSHING
AND
SLEEVE
Figure 30
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35. Cover the front fender with a towel and carefully remove the stock fork tube caps
from the fork tubes. Use caution while removing them. The fork tube cap will
jump up once it is free from the threads in the down tube. See Figure 31.
FORK TUBE
CAP
Figure 31: Right fork tube cap removed
36. Transfer the stock O-rings from the stock fork tube caps to the new fork tube cap
extensions.
37. Install the new fork tube cap extensions. This is made easier by using a leather
glove to pad your hand and pushing down on the cap while you rotate the fork
tube with your free hand. Getting a hand from a second person can also help.
Make sure that you screw the fork tube cap extensions in straight to avoid cross
threading the fork tubes. Tighten the fork tube caps. See Figure 32.
Figure 32
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38. Install the handle bars using the stock hardware. Remember to transfer the ground
strap from the stock triple tree and to put the ground strap between the handle bar
mount and conical washer. See Figure 33.
GROUND
STAP
Figure 33
39. Attach the brake line tee to the bottom of the new tree using the original T40 Torx
bolt with the 3 washers supplied with the kit under the tee to space it down. See
Figure 34. Tap the included spring pin into the open hole in the bottom of the
lower triple tree leaving halve of it exposed if it is compatible with the brake line
tee. If the tee is a round disk leave the spring pin out. The spring pin holds the tee
in place while tightening the brake line tee bolt. Tighten brake line tee bolt.
3 WASHERS
Figure 34
40. Install the front wheel assembly by sliding the down tubes up into the lower tree
and then upper tree. Jacking the bike up and slowly letting it down helps expedite
this process.
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41. Screw in and tighten the fork cap bolts to retain the fork tubes. Use a 1-3/8”
socket. It isn’t necessary to reinstall the factory steering stop pucks. See Figure 16
and Figure 35.
Figure 35
42. If the bike is a 2001 and down Road King, install the air fittings (from MTFS0051) into the top of the fork tube cap bolts. Wrap the threads in Teflon tape. Do
not over-tighten. See Figure 36. All other 2001 and down bikes will use the stock
fittings shown in Figure 17.
Figure 36: Air fitting
43. Torque both pinch bolts in the bottom tree to 40 ft-lbs with 5/16” Allen. See
Figure 37.
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Figure 37: Pinch Bolts
44. Torque the fork stem nut to 60 ft-lbs with a 1 ½” socket. See Figure 20.
45. Reinstall both of the brake calipers with the stock bolts with a 12 point 10mm
socket. See Figure 14.
46. Rotate handle bars from lock to lock checking for any interference. 2009-current
bikes will use the socket head cap screws on the bottom of the top plate as the
steering stops. 2008 and down bikes will use the bolt-on steering stops on the
bottom triple tree. Leave both installed, it is not necessary to remove either.
47. Make sure all hardware installed up to this point is tight and torqued accordingly.
48. Reinstall the main fairing by first getting it into position on the bike and then
holding it in place with the top T40 bolt on each side. See Figure 38
Figure 38
49. Reconnect all electrical connectors.
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50. Reinstall the lower chrome cover and screw in the lower T40 Torx bolt. See
Figure 10 and Figure 11.
51. Reinstall the running lights and tighten all four T40 Torx bolts. See Figure 10.
52. Reinstall both of the T27 bolts that attach the fairing to the smaller lower fairing.
See Figure 12.
53. Re-route the clutch cable up to the fairing and feed it through the grommet in the
fairing. See Figure 8. Make sure to route the clutch cable behind the front crash
bar. Running it in front of the crash bar will lead to the cable being pinched
during left turns. See Figure 39.
Figure 39: Correct Clutch Cable Routing
54. Reattach the cable to the clutch lever. Reinstall the handle and the snap ring. See
Figure 6 and Figure 7.
55. Adjust the clutch cable so that the clutch handle has a very small amount of slack
in it. The small amount of slack eliminates the chance of having the clutch
partially engaged or preloaded, which will lead to premature clutch failure. Once
the cable is adjusted cover the adjuster with the rubber boot. See Figure 5.
56. Reinstall the stereo head unit using the factory hardware. Reconnect stereo
wiring. See Figure 4.
57. Reinstall the front of the fairing and the front windshield. See Step 2, Step 3,
Figure 2 and Figure 3.
58. Turn the handle bars lock to lock and check for any interference.
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59. Due to the angle of the fairing changing the headlights and running lights must be
adjusted down.
60. Verify that all of the parts are installed properly and that all of the bolts are tight,
keeping in mind that customer safety is the first priority.
61. Test drive the vehicle at parking lot speeds and then highway speeds. Always
remember to check that your brakes are functioning correctly before beginning a
test drive. Always wear a helmet and appropriate riding gear.
62. Clean the bike thoroughly inside and out.
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