On Skinny Skis and Snowshoes

Living Healthy
Winter 2014
in Northern Vermont
& New Hampshire
NorthStar Publishing LLC
skis &
shoes
A guide for the NEK
and North Country
WINTER
WALKS
Where to go & how to get there
Marion Michele Brown
Ginger and
Energy
A FREE PUBLICATION
LIVING HEALTHY • 1
Living Healthy
in Northern Vermont &
New Hampshire
is published semi-annually by
NORTHSTAR PUBLISHING LLC
WINTER 2014
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4 WINTER WALKS
A guide to 11 destinations where
there is plenty to see and do.
10 ON SKINNY SKIS
AND SNOWSHOES
Everything you need to know to plan
your outing.
A guide to great destinations in
New Hampshire and Vermont
F
by Meghan McCarthy McPhaul
rom the majesty of Mount Washington and the grandeur of its
namesake hotel and resort to the quiet hamlets around the Craftsbury
Outdoor Center deep in the Northeast Kingdom, there’s plenty of
winter fun to find on skinny skis and snowshoes. Beyond the health
benefits of being active and outside in the colder months, Nordic skiing
and snowshoeing are also easily accessible, easy to learn, family friendly
and affordable.
“The trails always feel empty, and everyone passing by says, ‘Hi,’ and smiles,” says Tina Mangold
of Franconia, N.H., who skis primarily at nearby
Bretton Woods Nordic Center and lists numerous reasons to love the sport. “We are outdoors in
nature. It is quiet and peaceful. I am warm, getting a
great workout, and my entire family loves it. It is just
our winter thing.”
Kick, glide, skate and ‘shoe
There are various style distinctions in Nordic
snow sports. The most common of these include
classic skiing, skate skiing and snowshoeing. Most
Nordic centers offer instruction in each style, as
well as equipment rentals suitable for the different
disciplines.
Classic skiing involves kicking and gliding. Skiers “kick” straight back with one ski while gliding
forward on the other. Skate skiing is, as the name
implies, something like ice skating – only with long
skis instead of short blades, and with the added propulsion of long ski poles. In skate skiing, the skier
uses a V-stance (with ski tails close and tips spread
away from each other) and transfers weight entirely
from one ski to the other with each stride. The
equipment for classic skiing is different from that
used by skate skiers, so it’s important to match your
skis, boots and poles to the style you choose.
Generally, it’s best for beginners to start out classic skiing, and for many cross-country skiers, this
remains the preferred style. But skate skiing can be a
bit addictive.
“What appealed to me (about skate skiing) was
the grace of it. It looked so effortless to be moving
along that quickly,” says Dave Brown of Craftsbury, Vt., who can ski from his front door onto the
network of trails maintained by the Craftsbury Outdoor Center. “It’s great exercise. It feels to me that it
should be illegal, how easily you can move.”
Originally from Salt Lake City, Utah, Brown
started out as an alpine skier, but became almost
exclusively a Nordic skier when he moved to Ver-
mont 40 years ago. He is a regular on the Craftsbury
Outdoor Center trails, where he tries to ski several
days a week through the winter, including stops by
the post office in Craftsbury Common to check his
mail.
While Brown is a self-taught skate skier – he
learned from watching some of the elite skiers
who train in Craftsbury, along with a few YouTube
videos – he recommends newcomers to the sport
take a lesson to get started. That’s a sentiment shared
by Martha Wilson, a Bretton Woods skier, who says
professional instruction can benefit skiers of various
abilities.
“I’ve taken lessons in both skate and classic,”
Wilson says. “The amazing thing about Nordic skiing is that you can just head out with the basics, but
you can always learn something new to refine your
technique.”
Some Nordic centers also offer snowshoe lessons
and guided snowshoe tours. While there are different types of snowshoes – from traditional woodand-rawhide varieties to assorted plastic and metal
models, some with crampons or other traction
systems – there’s not much to snowshoeing other
than strapping them on and hiking through the
snow. Joining a guided tour, however, can be a great
way to learn your way around the trails.
Beyond the different Nordic disciplines and
equipment (check with the pros at a shop or Nordic
center to find out what’s best for your adventures),
there is also an array of terrain, from the sleek
groomed tracks surrounding Nordic centers to the
more off-the-beaten-path trails through forests and
up and down hills and mountains.
The ski ties that bind
When skiing started to become popular in New
England and throughout the United States in the
1920s, there was little distinction between crosscountry skiing and downhill skiing. To come down
a hill or mountain, skiers first had to ski or climb
up it. (The first rope tow in the United States was
LIVING HEALTHY • 11
installed in Woodstock, Vt., in 1934. The first
chairlift in New England opened in January
1938 at what is now the Gunstock ski area in
New Hampshire, one winter after the country’s
first chairlift, at Sun Valley, Idaho. The first
aerial tramway in North America opened in
1938 at Cannon Mountain in Franconia, N.H.)
Many of the region’s first ski trails were
eventually developed into “ski centers,” where
various wintertime activities were offered –
cross-country trails, downhill trails, ice-skating
rinks and small rope tows. Some of these centers ultimately evolved into modern ski areas.
The blurred lines between alpine ski areas and
Nordic ski areas continue in many centers,
including at Bretton Woods in New Hampshire.
With 6,288-foot Mount Washington as its
backdrop, the Bretton Woods Nordic Center
sits near the majestic red-roofed Omni Mount
Washington Hotel and just down Route 302
from the Bretton Woods alpine ski area. With
100 kilometers of groomed trails, Bretton
Woods has a little bit of everything for Nordic
skiers – including lift-serviced skiing at the
periphery of the alpine trails.
“What is unique to Bretton Woods is the
Mountain Road trail network, which is accessible by the chairlift,” says Nordic Center Director
Peter Smith.
For $10, Nordic skiers may ride the chairlift
to the new High Country trail and explore the
higher – and, therefore, sometimes snowier –
tracks of the Stickney Trail System. Skiers will
also find the Mount Stickney Cabin, a warming
hut offering hot soups, beer and wine, a warm
woodstove and an outside fireplace.
Beyond the Stickney trails, Bretton Woods
Nordic Center includes the Deception Trail
System, which runs between the hotel and
Mount Washington, and the Ammonoosuc
Trail System, meandering south toward the
Appalachian Mountain Club’s Highland Center.
Skiers are welcome to bring their dogs along for
a ski in the Deception area.
For beginning skiers, Smith recommends
starting off on the B&M trail. Named for the
Boston & Maine Railroad, which once traversed
the area, this trail follows the old railroad bed
along a gentle track into the woods. There’s a
warming hut about 5 kilometers from the Nordic Center along the trail.
Martha Wilson, who spends lots of time
exploring both the Nordic and alpine trails
at Bretton Woods (and writes a Blog titled
Outdoor Mom about family adventures at the
resort), has a hard time picking a favorite trail.
“Honestly, I just love being out there,” she
says. “It’s a treat to follow along the Ammonoosuc River on Bridal Path, listening to the river
flow even on the coldest of days. I love to cruise
up to the yurt on B&M and then see how fast I
can make it around all the roller-coaster turns
down Sebosis. And the Abenaki Crossing trail
gives the feeling of kicking and gliding virtually
to the foot of the ‘rock pile’ (Mount Washington).”
Other ski areas where Nordic and alpine
mingle include the Northeast Kingdom’s Jay
Peak and Burke Mountain.
Jay Peak Nordic Center offers full and halfday passes, rentals, lessons and guided snowshoe tours. The Nordic Center is located at the
resort’s golf clubhouse with some 20 kilometers
of trails winding along the golf course. The trails
are groomed for classic and skate skiing.
Burke Mountain collaborates with Kingdom
Trails to offer Nordic skiing and snowshoeing
on more than 60 kilometers of groomed trails.
The Nordic system is separated into two areas:
Dashney Farm and Darling Hill. The Kingdom
Trails Nordic Center is located near the base
of the alpine area on Dashney Farm (1.3 miles
off Route 114 past the lower Burke Mountain
entrance). While the Nordic Center does offer
season and day passes, it does not rent equipment, so be sure to bring your own or rent from
a local shop before heading out.
Dashney Farm includes trails through farm
fields and forests with trails suitable for all skiing abilities. Darling Hill (parking is available at
the Children’s Theater on Darling Hill Road) offers trails for beginner and intermediate Nordic
skiers and inspiring views of Willoughby Gap.
Venturing off the beaten path? Be prepared!
By Meghan McCarthy McPhaul
E
nsuring safe travels during outdoor winter
adventures takes a little extra preparation. While cruising around the groomed
trails of a Nordic center may not seem all that
daring, skiers should still be ready for the elements, especially if you’re new to the sport or
the trails and are not sure how long it might take
to complete a particular loop. If you’re heading
off the beaten path, it’s even more critical to be
prepared.
Here are a few tips for a safe trip:
Remember daylight hours are considerably
shorter during January and February than they
are in July and plan accordingly. If you’re heading out for a long ski tour or snowshoe, make
sure you leave early enough in the day that you
can return before dark. Take a watch and keep
track of your rate of travel so you know when
you need to turn around – even if you haven’t
reached your destination. And pack a headlamp
(and extra batteries or a backup light) in case
you do get caught in the dark.
Check the weather forecast before you go.
Winter days that dawn clear and bright are often
12 • LIVING HEALTHY
coldest – and they could turn stormy with little
warning. Higher elevations are often windier
and colder.
Leave your trip itinerary and expected return
time with a friend or loved one.
Carry plenty of water, whether you’re touring
around a Nordic center or heading into the
backcountry. Some winter adventurers suggest
filling bottles with warm water so it doesn’t
freeze. If you’re headed out for a day-long adventure, packing a thermos of hot water, tea, or
broth is another good idea.
Bring food. Your body will burn lots of energy
to keep you warm and active, and you’ll need to
refuel. Not all summer hiking snacks transfer
well to winter trails; energy bars, for instance,
get very hard when frozen. Trail mix, peanut
butter and jelly sandwiches, dried fruit, nuts
and chocolate are all good high-energy winter
snacks.
Many hiking essentials are the same regardless of season: first aid kit, map and compass,
sunscreen (the sun offers a double punch in winter – rays from the sky above and reflected light
from the snow below), a whistle, a pocketknife,
waterproof matches and a fire starter. A space
blanket, which is lightweight and packs small,
is a key addition to the winter pack. Throw in
a few hand and foot warmers, too; they’re light
and can quickly warm frigid fingers and toes.
Wearing and carrying the right clothing is
hugely important for winter outings. Dressing in
layers helps maintain a comfortable and healthy
body temperature. Shedding layers during uphill
climbs and adding them on less strenuous sections of your trek will help you stay warm and
dry. Stay away from cotton, and opt instead for
warm, wicking fabrics like wool and polypro.
Key items of clothing for winter outings include
a hat (plus an extra in case the first one becomes
wet from snow or sweat); liner gloves (plus extras) and waterproof outer gloves or mittens; an
extra pair of socks; enough layers – top and bottom – to keep you warm and dry; an insulating
jacket or sweater; a waterproof jacket (preferably
with a hood) and pants; and gaiters.
For more information about hiker safety, in all
seasons, visit hikesafe.com.
Skier’s Scoop
 Bretton Woods Nordic Center
www.brettonwoods.com/winter_sports/
nordic/overview
(603) 278-3322
 Craftsbury Outdoor Center
www.craftsbury.com/skiing/nordic_center/
home.htm
(802) 586-7767
 Jay Peak Nordic
www.jaypeakresort.com/things-to-do/
nordic-center
(802) 988-4653
 Franconia Village X-C Center
www.franconiainn.com/cross_country_
ski_center.php
(602) 823-5542
 Burke Mountain/Kingdom Trails
www.kingdomtrails.com/trail-network/
nordic-trails/nordic-trail-system
(802) 626-6005
 Northwoods Stewardship Center
www.northwoodscenter.org
(802) 723-6551
All Nordic, all the time
At the Craftsbury Outdoor Center and other
purely Nordic ski areas, the focus is solely on
cross-country skiing. With more than 100
kilometers of ski trails, Craftsbury really does
have something for every skier, and that is
evidenced by the locals like Dave Brown, who
cruises the trails in his green Dickies pants and
leather chopper mittens, and the Lycra-clad
elite athletes speeding along the track with
visions of Olympic medals dancing through
their heads.
Operated as a nonprofit organization since
2008, the Craftsbury center has a duel mission
of promoting participation and excellence in
lifelong sports (with a focus on Nordic skiing,
running and rowing), along with employing
sustainable practices in its operations and protecting the land surrounding the center.
On the Nordic skiing side of that mission,
the center maintains a looping network of
trails that ramble through fields and forests,
across lakes and ponds, along rivers, and
through the villages within the town of Craftsbury. A few years ago, the center also installed
a small snowmaking system, with the ability to
cover about 5 kilometers of trails in the event
there is not enough natural snow to do the job.
“Craftsbury Outdoor Center has it all,” says
John Monaghan, who attended local Sterling
College in the early 1990s and visits the area
annually from his home in New Hampshire.
“First time skiers and families can have fun
learning the sport, as well as serious competitive skiers who need miles of challenging
terrain to ski on.”
The center is home to the Green Racing
Project, an Olympic development program
that offers training to elite athletes year-round.
When they’re not training, the team’s athletes
help out with various projects at the center,
including many environmentally-based initiatives. (For more about Nordic racing, from the
junior Bill Koch League offered at many of the
centers mentioned in this article to masters
and elite competitions, visit the New England
Nordic Ski Association website: www.nensa.
net.)
For beginning skiers, Craftsbury’s Nordic
director John Brodhead recommends the short
(just under 5 kilometers) Duck Pond Trail. For
a longer outing, Brodhead suggests the Grand
Tour, a 16.7-kilometer loop through Mill Village, Craftsbury Common, Craftsbury Village
and Albany.
On the rare occasion Dave Brown chooses a
ski route he can’t access from his front door, he
tends to make the short drive to the center and
ski around Big Hosmer Lake. “It’s just a really
nice ski along a mostly undeveloped shoreline,” he says. “I’ll find all kinds of (animal)
tracks on the ice, and once in a while an ice
fisherman.”
Beyond lessons, rentals and uber-affordable
trail passes (a day pass is only $10, and an annual membership – including use of the gym
and rowing facilities in summer – is $50 for an
adult and a mere $100 for a family), the Craftsbury Outdoor Center also has an eco-friendly
lodge that can accommodate 100 people in
private rooms. Lodging includes hearty meals
in the dining room, with much of the food
grown and raised locally.
 Hardwick Trails
www.hardwicktrails.net
 Hazen’s Notch Association
hazensnotch.org/Winter_Recreation.htm
(802) 326-4799
 AMC Highland Center
www.outdoors.org/lodging/
whitemountains/highland/
Another Nordic-centric ski area, albeit on a
smaller scale, is the Franconia Village Crosscountry Ski Center in Franconia, N.H. Offering ski and snowshoe rentals, day and season
passes and instruction, the center is located
at the Franconia Inn and covers more than 65
kilometers of trails in the Easton Valley. Trails
range in difficulty from beginner to expert
and travel through field and forest along both
sides of the Ham Branch of the Gale River,
with views of mounts Lafayette, Cannon and
Kinsman.
Off the beaten path and
groomed track
For those who prefer to explore beyond the
groomed trails of Nordic centers, there are
myriad local options for both skiing and
snowshoeing. Essentially any trail used for
hiking or mountain biking in the summer is
easily transformed to a classic cross-country
(skate skis are best on groomed tracks) or
snowshoe trail by a cover of snow. Most golf
courses also allow skiers and snowshoe trekkers free winter access.
In northern Vermont and New Hampshire,
there are endless miles of trails through National Forest lands, state parks and conservaLIVING HEALTHY • 13
tion land. Some of these trails are also open
to snowmobiles, which lay down a nice track
to follow, so be aware of shared use. While options are too many to list, here are a few local
favorites:
■■ The Lafayette Ski Trails on Route 141 in
Franconia are quiet and offer a few short
loops for skiers and snowshoers just off I-93
and a stone’s throw from Cannon Mountain.
The Franconia Recreation Path which winds
through Franconia Notch from Franconia to
Lincoln, and is well knows as a bike path, is
also a good skiing option.
■■ The Society for the Protection of New
Hampshire Forests conserves and manages
several thousand acres of land throughout the
state, most open to the public. In the North
Country, Forest Society land with trails open
to snowshoe and ski outings include The
Rocks Estate and Bretzfelder Park, both in
14 • LIVING HEALTHY
Bethlehem, and the David Dana Forest in
Dalton.
■■ Crawford Notch State Park and the AMC
Highland Center are also home to many
snowshoe/ski trails, along with great views.
■■ The Northwoods Stewardship Center in East
Charleston, Vt., maintains a network of hiking trails on nearly 3,000 acres of preserved
land. Many of the trails are also marked for
winter outings and make for fun ski tours or
snowshoe treks. The center also offers occasional guided snowshoe and ski tours.
■■ Beyond state parks and national forests,
locally-held public lands are also generally
open to winter trail use. A good example is
the Hardwick Trails, 6 miles of wooded trails
behind the Hazen Union School that are perfect for a gentle ski or snowshoe outing.
■■ The Hazen’s Notch Association, a conservation land trust and environmental education
center in Montgomery Center, Vt., maintains
more than 30 trails for cross-country and
snowshoeing, including some trails that are
groomed. Trails range from gentle to challenging, including a snowshoe trail to the
summit of 2,800-foot Burnt Mountain.
Many people who enjoy snowshoeing and
Nordic skiing find their favorite trails are often
the ones right outside the back door, whether
those trails lead to a greater maintained network
of tracks or just into the quiet of the woods.
Wherever you choose to ski or snowshoe,
chances are you’ll find beauty in the snowcovered forests and peaks and return with rosy
cheeks and good cheer.
Meghan McCarthy McPhaul, an award-winning writer, is the author of the book, A History of Cannon
Mountain, Trails, Tales and Skiing Legends, published in 2011. She lives with her husband and three
children in Franconia, N.H., where she writes a blog, writingsfromafulllife.blogspot.com.