Wombat mange is treatable in free living wombats.

Wombat mange is treatable in free living wombats.
Mange can wipe out isolated colonies of wombats in just a few years!
Thank-you for trying to assist manage mange, the biggest threat to Australian wombats in general, and a protracted, inevitable
death for individual wombats. It is only relatively recently that animal welfare groups have begun treating wombats with mange
in their natural habitat.
This booklet is just some on the information available about mange, here is more on our web site particularly in our
Bulletins. We recommend you read all you can, you keep yourself safe and you check your local laws pertaining to wildlife.
The Wombat Protection Society of Australia is a non profit organization to raise money to fund projects that provide wombats
with immediate protection from harm, enhance the quality of life of individuals or groups of wombats and to fund projects which
develop or maintain suitable habitat/ sanctuaries for wombats.
The society will also fund and support research projects which meet these criteria. One aim of the society is to develop an
interactive web site which will bring together people involved in wombat conservation and protection, maintain a data base of
up to date research and information about wombats and serve as a conduit for further research.
www.wombatprotection.org.au
MANGE CAN BE STOPPED
In 2006 The Wombat Protection Society of Australia (the society) set a five year goal to have mange eradicated from wombats throughout Australia. Since setting that target, mange, originally restricted to vombatus ursinus , the bare nosed wombat, has
been confirmed in the Southern Hairy Nosed Wombat, Lasiorhinus kreffti .To date, the society has set up a mange mapping survey
which allows members of the public to report sightings of wombats with mange and it has produced two research summaries. These
papers, “Eradicating Mange in Wild Wombats” and “Treatment Options for Free Living Wombats with Mange” have been published on
the society’s web site and comment invited.
Thousands of wombats are affected and dying from mange and as they do, they share the mites which cause mange
with other wombats and if a female, with their joey. This ensures each generation of wombats is affected and some believe this will
continue until they die out completely. Wombats are generally considered to have enough individuals to not be endangered so no
Federal or State authority has any intervention plan in place or proposed. This is where an animal “owned by the Crown” as wombats
are, receive less rights and protection than that of any domestic pet or farm animal. An owner of any animal allowed to suffer the way
a mange infested wombat does would be heavily penalised and that animal removed from their care. No such protection or care is
provided to a wombat. Additionally, ignoring this infestation ensures more animals suffer.
Mange changes the healthy wombat which should have clean and complete hair, bright eyes, clean skin visible in its’ ears
into an emaciated, scab encrusted, blinded and flyblown animal. This wombat was named Barabarroo from the road near which she
was located. She was blinded by thick scabs over her eyes, had thick plaques on most of her body and open flyblown fissures despite it being winter. She smelt of decaying flesh. Her ears were completely full of scabs and her body was drawn together into a ball
because the plaques, filled with lymph fluid and mite deritus ,stick the skin into rock hard plaques of scab.
WHAT IS MANGE?
Mange is an infestation of the mite Sarcoptes Scabeii the same mite which causes scabies in humans and mange in dogs. Vigilance and proper treatment has seen mange eradicated
in the human and canine populations. Occasional infestations are easy to control but because
there has been no attempt to eradicate the mite from wombat populations, it continues to spread
and to kill wombats. It is now difficult to find places free of mange. In wombats, the female mite
buries into the flesh and tunnels through it depositing eggs as well as her waste. The wombat
reacts to this invasion in a process which causes a dysfunction in the keratinisation process and
this leads to thick scabby plaques developing all over the animal’s body.
The scabs draw the body together, so often the impression given by a
completely manged wombat is of a hunched up creature walking on its toes.
The skin cracks and fissures become infected and flyblown. The animal reeks
of rotting flesh, scabs grow over the eyes and eventually the animal dies.
Usually, many months of suffering have occurred prior to the death. While very
little research has been done with wombat mange as a focus, the little that has,
suggests that these animals die from the combined effects of emaciation
and pulmonary and other
HOW CAN IT BE STOPPED?
Sarcoptes Scabei
Stopping mange has to start by getting people to know enough and care enough to take action. A very small number of
wildlife rehabilitators know about mange and its devastating impact on wombats. Farmers and others who live close to the land are
aware of it but in general, most people are unaware.
Those who have contact with manged wombats are over come with either compassion or repulsion as the animal in the last
stages of infestation is a sad and rotting mess. For some reason these animals often come into dangerous situations they normally
would avoid and are often reported under houses and in people’s backyards. Whether this is interpreted as them seeking help or
trying to find water or fresh grass remains untested , but these are the few that get observed and have any chance currently of being
helped. These often are the sickest animals with the least chance of survival.
While there are some stories of rehabilitating such ill animals, others have experienced that such an animal, particularly a
free living one, may not be savable at that stage. Free living wombats can become very stressed in captivity and lose their place in
the wild if removed from their habitat. In reality, there is such a small handful of situations where captive treatment could be attempted this provides no useful solution to the problem. Because very ill wombats come to the attention of the few rehabilatators
involved with wombats, a general consensus has resulted in such animals being euthanised rather than treated. However, no work
has focused on keeping populations mange free by treating animals before they develop this state of ill health . Early intervention in
the wild is the focus of this project.
The problem of mange is that it is geographically widespread and affects thousands of animals few people see, because
wombats are nocturnal and only live in pockets along the Eastern Seaboard of Australia. Most wombats live on private land. In
some areas the animal is viewed as a nuisance and this creates an unsympathetic audience to its plight in some sectors of the
community. In addition, the majority of Australians know virtually nothing about wombats let alone having the expertise to understand the impact of mange. Those groups educating people, prefer to show a healthy young wombat to encourage the public to appreciate this amazing marsupial. Pictures of maggot ridden emaciated flyblown “iconic” symbols don’t make great publicity and sometimes fuel fears
that the mange on the wombat will be caught by people or their pets.
Solutions to the problem aren’t simple and they are complicated by the animal’s behaviour and our lack of interaction with
this animal. Some of these obstacles can be overcome by reproducing information on mange and targeting this information to a
wider audience than the wildlife rehabilitation fraternity alone. In saying that, it is the wildlife rehabilitation community to which the
project owes its existence and indeed, most of the information which suggests how mange could be treated in free living wombats
comes from those who have raised and rehabilitated wombats through these groups. They have the rare experience of being able
to observe “field trial” interventions without causing harm. In the one systemic piece of research on mange in wombats undertaken
by Skerratt in 2001, he experimentally infested wombats with mange mites and then studied their release in a free living population.
The W.P.S.A. would not support interventions which cause intentional harm but recognise that the findings of such work needs to
be applied to helping wombats. It is only in recent times that any attempt to collect and collate the existing material about mange
and the potential for intervention has occurred. It is because of this material that we have some strategies that can be employed to
treat free living wombats. The wide distribution of wombats and the issues involved in treating native animals as well as variations
in where wombats live, means that a prescriptive, recipe approach would not work.
Treatment of free living wombats with mange has occurred but only on a “one off” basis and often it is not possible to get
information about how the animal fared long term. Currently individual release site carers able to identify their returning wombats
are the best source of information about the efficacy of treatments used on free living wombats showing clinical signs of mange.
Through their observations we know there are a number of effective treatments and over time we have developed methods for
treating free living wombats that do no require capture or confinement. In many cases, proper hospital treatment would be the
best option but there are no facilities for wombats to be treated on mass and that means that free living wombats are left to suffer
and die rather than being treated in the early stages. This occurs also because many people don’t understand what mange is and
because wombats are nocturnal and it is not until mange is well developed that they are seen in daylight.
MANGE CAN BE CAUGHT BY CONTACT WITH
INFECTED WOMBATS. CAUTION SHOULD BE
TAKEN, GLOVES WORN AND HIGH HYGIENE
PROCEDURES FOLLOWED AT ALL TIMES.
Mites can transfer to humans and small raised pupules that are
intensely itchy develop on the skin, It’s called Scabies. Scabiol and
other benzyl benzoate products rapidly resolve infestations
HOW TO BEGIN
Wombats suffering from severe infestations may be seen
out during the day and some members treat these wombats by simply
walking up behind and downwind of them and pouring on product
directly. This method only works for a month or so because when the
wombat’s ears and eyes clear up, they bolt before they can be reached
because they are hearing and seeing better.
Eventually, as they recover, they return to nocturnal behaviour
as their eyes heal which means they are no longer seen during the
day. Making use of seeing one out during the day by following it to its
burrow means you can ensure a longer period of effective treatment.
Tracking and mapping burrows in an area is the next best approach
and in areas where there are too many burrows to treat all of them,
working out which burrows are active and treating those will be the
best approach.
Wombats will chew
each other, these
wombat has hair loss
caused by another
wombat biting her
back. This is not mange
A typical “Wombat hunt”
A mangy Wombat seen at a distance, approached slowly down wind by 1
person, with a long dowel with a treatment dose in the bottle on the end, ready to
pour onto the wombat if you can. The Wombat will stop eating and stand still and face
the noise while he works out what he can hear, and if you are patient, you can get
close enough to treat him. Or he could scamper straight off to the closest burrow or
bolt hole.
You will need to follow this wombat to his burrow so you know if you don’t
see him next week and you can then put a flap on the right burrow. As he gets better
you wont see them out in the day and have to rely on what you have been observing
re activity in local burrows.
Strip of treatment (4 ml) on wombats forehead, he’s annoyed and ‘barking/ hissing,
they do bite so just back off slowly. They
often don’t seem to mind, just run off to
their burrow or nearest bolt hole.
2 metre dowel treating wombat
We suspect that the death of a heavily infested wombat in it’s burrow, if
shared with another wombat, is the most likley means by wich an intense load of mites
will be transfered to another wombat, sufficent irrespective of previous contact to the
mite and possibility of immunity, to cause sarcoptic mange in that animal. Mites do not
live long off their host and burrows even if infested will be mite free within 3 weeks.
Wombats are known to share their burrows with other wombats and even use
a couple of burrows in one night. Some ‘burrows’ are just short bolt holes or ‘test dig’
burrows made by younger Wombats. So you don’t need to flap all the active burrows
you find.
Farmers mistakenly think there’s one Wombat per burrow, when it could be
there are as many as 40 burrow’s, 20 active and only 6 wombats! One wombat can do
up to 100 scats in a night, which helps the myth of there being many more wombats
than there actually is.
The more you disturb the burrows, the more likely the wombat will move onto
another part of his range. So crawling into burrow’s, or taking photo’s inside burrows,
is not a good idea. Wombats will often move burrow’s if flaps are put on and left on,
but they do eventually return.
Smaller flaps are better, as wombats often bask in the sun in the entrance to
their burrow, and they see the flap as intrusive, They don’t appear to initially like the
smell of the cydetin, but get used to it. It will depend on the wombat, removing the flap
next day isn’t always possible although preferable.
Not sure where the burrow is flaps can also be put on Wombat pathways,
under fences where they have pushed through, or on access points under house or
sheds if a wombat is living there. Flaps can be Plywood, small ice cream lids, or milk
bottle sides or just caps; hot glued to string or wire, it’s about delivering the treatment.
A short bolt hold and a wombat
bum showing you could reach in
with your treatment pole and ‘treat’
him get it as high up his back as
possible.
Finding Burrows
Track running under bracken wombat
scats on track and rocks to help scent
location 1.5 to 2,5 cm square depending
on size and age . Wombats can do 100
scats in a night depending on conditions.
Some burrows are very obvious and easy to locate, others
are more discrete. If you can’t locate the particular burrow a wombat
is using, you may need to locate and “treat” all the burrows in an
area. This is necessary anyway if you see a large number of wombats with mange using an area.
Some burrows are very easily found while others may
need a bit of sleuthing to find. Wombats use pathways that have
overhangs often going under logs and branches. If you are following
a track and have to jump over or duck under trees and logs, you are
likely to be following a wombat track. Burrows are often downward
towards gullies and very often near to creeks. Wallabies and roos
tend to use clear pathways.
Wombats will have scat sites and scratching places nearby.
Wombats with mange become very thirsty as their skin “leaks” so
they are likely to be close to a water source. This is a good tip too for
those treating wombats with mange- make sure they have access to
easy water.
Dead centre of photo a will hidden used burrow, the
white object is an old wombat bone recently dug out.
Fresh dirt indicating used on the right,
and an unused burrow right next door
Finding them again!
G.P.S. Systems are helpful if you plan to monitor a large
number of burrows, however some members report that in dense bush
with accuracy restricted to a couple of metres, you may need to develop
some other marker system to ensure you can find the burrow again.
Hang a coloured bit of fabric nearby, or a description on your treatment
sheet.
Some members use maps and mark and describe where they
are, adding burrows as they find more. Once you have found your burrow the burrow flap is arranged in the most suitable manner depending
on the burrow entrance shape.
The earth sides are waist high , a large
‘main’ burrow probably centries old.
White old scats and dark green fresh shiny cubes
Scat size and number of pellets are affected by
feeding pattern. If you observe fresh scats in your
area over a number of days you can develop a
record for aging scats that may
help identify recently used
pathways and burrows.
Obliging wombat ‘spud’ demonstrating a treatment flap.
Plywood flap under wire fence, has been there 18 months, (as have a few others
in burrows) 2 large rocks used to direct wombat thru flap. Treatment only put in
flap for monthly maintaince, or weekly if a mangy wombat appears to be using it.
Can’t find a burrow but do know a pathway?
The wombat in this burrow, has
flap rage and distroys flaps on
a weekly or even nightly basis.
Was it the flap or the smell of
the cydetin?
While burrow flaps placed in the entrance to burrows provide the best direct
treatment, there may be occasions where it is more practical to use a track or a pathway
that is being used by wombats.
The issues to consider are whether you will treat a particular wombat you are
targeting as effectively. Most bare nosed wombats use a single burrow and while they will
share if under duress, it is more common for one wombat to use one burrow. Flaps over
burrows are more likely to directly treat a particular wombat. Wombat tracks are frequently
used by more than one wombat and may also be used by other animals, hence the likelihood of getting any particular animal on a track is lower than directly in front of a burrow.
While the work of monitoring large areas where wombats are being treated is
relatively new, one large treatment area reported that wombats may move from their burrow if a flap is left in place. A number of other members have had no issues and wombats
continued to use burrows, throughout the treatment schedule with flaps left in place all the
time, empty or filled.
Bare nosed wombats move burrows periodically, following feed, water or breeding cycles. Bare nosed wombats also are reported to enjoy sunning themselves at the
entrance to their burrows so large flaps which block sun could potentially interfere with
their afternoon sunning. If flaps can be checked the following day and lifted up/off out of
the way until the next treatment ,any concerns about the flap interfering with the burrow
entrance are addressed.
All flaps a max of
15 cm x 15 cm, Hang high in
entrance
Milk bottle side flap, too
light for windy spots.
Burrow Flaps
deliver product as the
wombat goes in or out
of their burrow. Made
from plywood or a small
ice cream lid using a
plastic drink or water
bottle cap (4 ml ) and
a small ‘rain protector roof. Round sharp
corners off!
Burrow is to wide
for just one flap, but
a better spot is the
‘ramp’ leading to the
burrow entrance.
Using string and Wire
pegs to hold in place
is simplest.
Wombat Mange is treatable!
Non-invasive treatment methods for free living wombats.
Mange Progression
Mange is caused by a mite
that reproduces rapidly.
Clinical symptoms
No Clinical symptoms
Treatments that have worked.
For prevention, treat once monthly Cydectin® or Revolution®. (Revolution® available from Vets. Cydectin®
is available from Produce stores)
Hair loss and scabbing around 4 ml Cydectin® pour on used for red deer & cattle .
the eyes. Mange frequently
Treat weekly for 8 weeks.
begins underneath the animal
Or
making it hard to see how
Revolution® (for dogs )available from vets.
developed the infestation is. Treat fortnightly for 8 weeks. .
Hair loss on sides and back
some scabbing, no cracks or
infection. The wombat has
good body condition.
Thick raised scabbed areas,
developed cracks allowing fly
strike and infections. Generally out in daytime. Poor body
condition
4 ml Cydectin® pour on used for red deer & cattle.
Treat weekly at least 8 weeks.
Or
Revolution®. Treat fortnightly at least 8 weeks. May
need some topical treatment to relieve itching. ( a
spray on, seek advice)
4ml Cydectin® weekly for 8 weeks or longer. Antibiotics are indicated and the wombat may not recover
even with intensive care. More complex help needed,
euthanasia may be an option, seek advice from The
Wombat Protection Society.
Cydectin® pour on used for red deer & cattle This is a pour on treatment and can be delivered in a flap or with a pole
and bottle or cap. You don’t have to catch to wombat. Cost effective when treating large numbers of wombats. Cost for
approx. 12 doses about 50c (purchasing 2.25 lts for $225.00)
Revolution® (for dogs )available from vets. This is a direct spot on to the back of the neck of a wombat and you need
to catch your wombat!. Use weight appropriate dosage. Cost for 12 doses approx. $170. 00
Neither product is licensed for use on wombats, but that the Wombat Protection Society is conducting work which will
allow for this to happen, meanwhile off registration use of products can be directed by a Veterinarian. Dose rates and
techniques described are ones reported to the Society by members to be effective.
How Long To Treat
Based on the mite life cycle and results from carers treating wild wombats, they need to have more doses of Cydectin
if they have mange than the dose rate recommended as a preventative. Weekly doses for at least eight weeks with fortnightly
treatments for another eight weeks seem to have the best overall results. WPS bulletins have discussed possible reasons for this
including the mite life cycle, the thickness of wombat skin and their slower metabolic rate. It takes at least six weeks before changes
are seen, particularly if the animal had heavy scabbing prior to the start of treatment. Not getting worse is a positive sign. A recent
report from a member described treating a large free living wombat for a period of four months. At the beginning he was blind and
unresponsive. Seven weeks into the treatment he was responsive and alert.
The most recent report indicates that his hair is growing back ,his eyes are totally clear and he looks well, and new hair
growing through strong and healthy. Some of the deepest pieces of keratinised plaque (scab) are still growing out with the new
hair. Mites interfere with the keratinisation process the process that grows hair and nails) and some of what appears to be scab on
wombats is actually thick plaques of keratin. It is better to get spot on products onto CLEAN skin and hair as the scabby plaque area
compromises dermal absorption. The simplest treatment which appears to be the most effective is to get a dose of pour on cydectin® (or similar) onto the wombat (by whichever method) weekly for a least eight weeks and then to continue to treat fortnightly for
another eight weeks. If burrow flaps are set up over the burrow the wombat uses, this effectively means having someone happy to
refill the lid of the burrow flap weekly for two months and then fortnightly for two months. This makes weekend treatment programs a
suitable way to care for wombats in a given area. Occasionally, there may be need to clean the flap container and very occasionally,
if a wombat does a major burrow entry renovation, a new flap may have to be installed. Otherwise refilling the container on a weekly
basis and if done over weekends, lifting up the flaps the following day is all the work needed.
How Long Before I Know It is Working
Hair regrowth takes quite some time, partly
because the hair follilces have been compromised by the
female mite tunnelling through the skin. The spread of mange over the animal should
stop within a month, often there is a localised effect with
the back and the head, getting the majority of the dose,
improving faster than under the arms and behind the legs;
not getting worse is a good sign; hearing and eye sight
seem to improve by week four and generally some hair
regrowth is seen from weeks 6.-8. The wombat can still look motley for some time
but close inspection shows that scabs have dropped off
or are growing out ( hairs often grow through scab so they
“lift” growing up with the hairs, giving the appearance of the
wombat still being scabby although the skin underneath is
healed and beginning to grow hairs.) This picture (Fred) is
of a wombat following eight weekly treatments of cydectin
pour on.
The hair regrowth pattern is indicative of a
localised effect from the pour on,( back and head which get
bulk of pour on directly onto them clear up first) new hair
is growing on his side, underbelly and face indicating the
systemic effect. His eyes and ears are clear of the scab
that encrusted them at the start of treatment. Keratinised
scab is growing out around his left cheek and back legs. He is putting on condition and will be treated for
another two months at fortnightly intervals.
Fred
Above still some scabbing
on ears.
Below ‘Shed’ at about 10
-12 week’s body condition
improving and coat regrowing well. ‘Lyn’ below fine
hair regrowth, body condition improving
Why do mangy wombats appear
around farms?
The most plausible reason for the many wombats that are
reported coming into homesteads and yards near dogs
when they have mange is because they are seeking water. Many people comment on how the wombat ignores dogs barking and often dogs barking alerts property
owners to the fact they have a wombat with mange visiting.
It may also explain why many manged wombats are found
under sheds.
While mites clog ears and eyes and affect hearing
and sight and probably smell, intense thirst and the need Lyn March 09
to shelter near water may explain this behaviour. Members
who have release sites where hand reared wombats have
been released often report a wombat they have released
many years previously, returning if they are hurt including
when they get mange.
Many release sites now treat wombat burrows on
a regular basis as a means of keeping mange out of their
release site or property.
Shed July 09
Frequently Asked Questions
1. 4 mls is the maximum dose of Cydectin needed to treat a large adult wombat once. The
water bottle lids in the flaps
provided hold approximately 4mls.
2. If the wombat has obvious clinical signs of mange it is recommended that it be treated weekly until hair is regrowing and the clinical signs are reversing. This may take as long as 8 weeks at least. Wombats move burrows and grazing
areas so maintaining weekly treatments for this time helps ensure they are mite free if they can’t be found. As wombats
feel better, they won’t be seen out in the daytime less and less, but it’s important to keep treating the burrows.
3. If possible, continue to treat a wombat that has had mange fortnightly until it is fully recovered.
4. For preventative treatments, treat monthly where other wombats are known to have mange, less frequently if no other
wombats are seen with mange.
5. In addition to your kit ( Wombat protection society mange Kit ) you will need fencing wire bent as pegs, string to
attach Flap, Disposable gloves, when filling flaps. Also a length of thin dowel ( can be taped together on sight for extra
length) and an old small plastic bottle taped to one end to put dosage in. Hot glue gun is great to fix caps into flaps and
raid covers if needed.
6. Mange is caused by a mite. It is an infestation not a disease. Just like Kids at school, one gets hair lice they all get it,
and until they are all treated and Lice free it will continue to be spread around repeatedly.
7. The clinical signs including hair loss, scabbing and fissuring are caused by the female mite burying in under the skin.
Her faeces and body when she dies set up the infections in the skin.
8. Try to ensure the Cydectin is poured onto the least affected areas. It is a pour on that is absorbed dermally ( through
the skin). While slight localised effects have been noted the product is systemic which means it eventually moves through
the whole system via blood supply. The scab is actually keratinised (from hair) plaque and is (according to Skerratt 2001)
filled with parakeratotic plaque, dead mites and skin exudations. It is therefore not the best place to put the Cydectin to
get the best skin absorption. (where there is still hair, generally down the back)
9. Supportive treatment may be needed if the wombat smells. Terramyacin powder- sold as pink eye powder for cattle,
can be used as an antibiotic powder and as it is made for eyes, it is safe to puff this powder all over the wombat. It can
also be bought as a blue aerosol spray- though wombats tend to dislike aerosols
10. Supportive treatment may be needed if the wombat is flyblown. Cetrigen, an animal product that is insecticidal and
anti-bacterial may be used- it is an aerosol so wombats tend to run away when this is used. Tea tree oil diluted into warm
water and sprayed on may be used as an alternative.
11. Stay in touch with the Society or the person nominated to support your efforts. We have found areas where so many
wombats have mange that a broad treatment program may be necessary so if you are seeing more wombats with mange
than you can help get into contact again.
12. Finally, as this work is relatively new, any documentation you keep notes, observations, photographs are invaluable
in assisting other wombats and we would be grateful for a copy of these.
Wombat facts..
-If the current local resident wombat is removed, younger wombats will divide up the area and move in. The younger
wombats are more likely to make test runs at burrow digging and abandon them than older adults.
- Wombats live in 6 or more burrows, some having two entrances, and do 80 to 100 scats each per night so burrow or scat counting will not be a good indication of how many wombats are actually around. .
-A single wombat may own a number of generational burrows, often centuries old.
- Wombats may abandon partly dug burrows, so there will appear to be more burrows than there are wombats. These are often only used as a temporary shelter in an emergency.
- Wombats can have a home range of 5 hectares in good conditions and up to 23 ha in poor conditions and can range as far as 3 kilometres in a single night.
- In good conditions Bare nosed wombats breed every two to three years and have only one young. If there is not enough territory or conditions are poor wombats do not breed. A pair of wombats will only produce the equivalent of one female every 4 years. A baby wombat stays with mum for 2 years and they live about 10 to 12 years in good
conditions in the wild.
- Wombats have the lowest known food intake of all Australian Marsupials. It is less than half that of a koala.
- Wombats are quite intelligent and train well to electric fences
There appears to be at least two clinical presentations of mange.
One is a dry version with extensive hair loss. The other a wet type.
Dry version
Wet version
This well haired wombat had the wet type of mange. She felt damp when picked
up. Mites bury into the skin causing fluid loss. DO NOT BATHE a wombat with
wet type mange. Scab beneath hair becomes waterlogged and bacteria builds
rapidly leading to immediate death.
Mange is prevalent throughout all populations of wombats with the exception of the Northern Hairy Nosed Wombat. This is a Southern Hairy nosed
Wombat with mange.
Southern Hairy nosed Wombat with mange.
Mange: organic and homeopathic treatments
- Homeopathic treatments. Are used in the UK to help in the treatment of mange in fox’s. As yet this is a
very new (as is all research into the treatment of free living wombats with mange) and some members use
homeopatic treatments. More information is needed about this at this stage.
- Oil-To Remove Crusting: Oil of some type to remove and soften crusting associated with mange should not
be considered a treatment in and of itself, although there is some evidence that oil will smother mites. Davis
and Skerratt recommended baby oil or if this had not softened the crusting Glycerine and raw sugar. (Davis
and Skerratt). As only part of a treatment procedure. This method causes saturation of fur with oil and may
lead to thermoregulatory issues so it is only used on captive wombats able to be monitored and temperature
controlled.
- Sulphur oil A number of members of the Wombat Protection Society have used sulphur mixed with oil to successfully treat scabies/
mange and remove mange mites on wombats with no reported negative or side effects. There are two ways such treatments have been
employed. The first involves captive wombats having the oil and sulphur mix rubbed over their bodies to a point of fur saturation over a
long period of time, using the oil to assist remove the keratotic plaques and feeding the wombat small doses of sulphur mixed into feed.
This method causes saturation of fur with oil and may lead to thermoregulatory issues so it is only used on captive wombats able to be
monitored and temperature controlled.
The second method using the same mixture of sulphur and oil is to hang an applicator device over a burrow that delivers a small
quantity of sulphur and oil onto the top of the wombat each time it enters and leaves the burrow. Using the wombat’s natural grooming
process, over a period of time, the oil and sulphur is gradually distributed over the entire body. This method does not involve saturating
the animal so thermoregulation is not an issue.
In trials with a hand reared captive wombat, given a 5ml delivery of sulphur and oil daily for a week as a pour on, no matting or
sticking of hair occurred and after 24 hours in each case the mixture was well distributed throughout the fur despite it only being applied to
the neck region. It also made no difference if this amount was squirted along the back. Wombats generally only enter and leave burrows a
few times at most nightly, and a delivery device of 5mls will not result in the animal becoming saturated. 4,4,5,5,5=23.
It should be noted that some proponents of this method believe that scabies/mange is the result of other environmental factors
as well and merely eradicating the mange mite will not ensure the ongoing health of the wombat per se. It is also important to note that a
wombat with severe mange (more than 75% of body affected by plaques, following Skerratt,2001) would, in most circumstances also require antibiotics to survive, however, there may be benefits to other wombats which may share the burrow of such of wombat in removing
the mites from it , even if it dies.
Sulphur has also been claimed to detoxify and enhance immune response (Zest) so it would seem that no further harm is likely
to be done to a wombat with severe mange which may die using the self application method and this method probably protects other
wombats that may share a burrow with it.
The delivery device is a plastic screw top jar filled with 500mls of a carrier oil such as advocado, neatsfoot or a vegetable oil, into
which is mixed 50grams sulphur and agitated to make a 10% suspension. The sulphur does not fully dissolve into the oil but rather is suspended and delivered via the oil onto the wombat. This container has a small hole 1/8” drilled into the lid and is screwed onto an upturned
lid such as a milo lid employing washers between the two lids. This is hung from a chain by a spike over the top of burrows at wombat
height. The solution runs out onto the lid and remains there airlocked until the wombat’s movement tips the amount on the lid down its
back at which time the lid refills
So sick, wombat needs catching ?
If a wombat is so ill it needs to be caught and treated. Get advice
from The wombat protection society first, as there might be someone locally
whom can decide if it really needs catching, or can catch it. Firstly be aware,
that he will bite ! and it hurts! Nets can be used to capture wombats but they
can run fast so you need to be fit to out pace them.
A large section of bird mesh can be used by 2 people but a wombat
is capable of chewing thru such mesh so they need t be picked up quickly.
This Bin has been modified so that it can be used as a capture container as
well as a transport cage. Wombats are easily heat stressed so keep them
cool.
If transporting
a wombat add
frozen drink
bottles to his
carrier to help
keep him cool
and in an air
conditioned car.
The wombat should be picked up facing out in a
bear hug. If possible support him as the pressure on his ribs can cause distress. You will also
get mange ( scabies) handling wombats without
protection.
Remote camera’s
Using a digital camera, let’s you see what’s happening. Spotted a healthy fat wombat and a fox . The currently recommended camera takes day or infra red photo’s, down loads onto a card, and then onto your computer, heat and movement activated . Waterproof and easy to use. Costs around $330. Called a ‘scout Guard cam SG550. available from www,wildlifemonitoring.com.au
Making the flap
If using an small ice cream lid, or a milk bottle side you can cut the slot out using craft knives ,
scissors or a soldering iron to burn the slots out. The lid fits in and is held in place without the need
for glue by the remaining plastic “tongues”. (see below) If using plywood, a jigsaw or hole saw will
be necessary and the lid is glued in position. A hot glue gun works well with all ply and plastics you
need to use a reasonable amount. of glue.
Some areas that get rain use a “roof” to stop the lids filling with water. In the plastic flap
model this is a slot into which a suitable sized piece of plastic from the container or another lid is
placed. In the plywood model a small piece of plywood is inserted into a slot to perform the same
function. DO round off any sharp points on roofs or shelves. Corrugated cardboard can also be
used but is less durable.
Record keeping
A treatment record like this
can be kept, keeping a
record of usage of burrow,
if the treatment dosage was
emptied, date and description, will give you a picture of
what is happening with your
burrows. Dated photo’s are
also a great help, when you
can get them.
Wombat Mange treatment chart
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Burrow
identification
T* = 2 flaps
Date
Activ
Y N
Date
Treat
Y N
Active
Y N
Treat
Y N
Date
Active
Y N
Date
Treat
Y N
Active
Y N
Treat
Y N
Road Kill mitigation
Wombats often they look like they have been there
for days. A female wombat dead after a car accident
can have a joey wombat survive for up to 3 days in
the pouch!.
If they are on their back’s or a cross or
mark is painted on the wombat it has
been checked.
The pouch of a wombat with a very small joey will be
very tight and you may need to insert a finger into
the pouch to ascertain weather a joey is inside or not
Wombats are frequently hit where road
guards are placed as these are often
against embankments and near waterways, preferred wombat habitat.
Wombats usually are hit in the head and rarely survive road
collisions. An injured wombat surviving a road accident will need
veterinary attention
Wombats do not respond like horses and dogs to the sound
of cars. They use smell as their primary sense, their eye sight is poor
and the speed of cars means by the time they hear an approaching
vehicle they panic and bolt, often into the car. If you see a wombat
at the edge of the road, act as you would if you saw a two year old
child. Slow completely down and prepare to stop until you are sure
the animal will move away from the road.
DO NOT LEAVE A DEAD OR INJURED WOMBAT ON THE ROAD. Not only will this cause a further hazard to other motorists
but if dead the carcass will attract a variety of carrion eaters such as
wedge tail eagles that may also become road kill. The reason you
turn the animal on its side or back to pull it off the road is that if a joey
is alive in the pouch and you pull it belly down you may injure the
joey. If you cannot pull the animal from the road on your own, flag
down a car to help or call a rescue organization to assist.
The police will also attend if an animal is injured and needs
euthanasia though this is not a priority for the police and in all cases
try the animal rescue organisation first and seek their advice regarding the specifics of the situation.
If you see a dead wombat near the road;
Male wombat testicles (above) And a pouch with
an enlarged nipple protuding , indicating mum was
feeding a joey, who could still be around. Joey could
have wandered a distance and needs locating, or
will die as well.
Stop your vehicle, put hazard lights on
Ensure your passengers are safe; Your safety comes first!
Turn the wombat gently onto its back and pull them off the road using
their front paws. Leave them on their back as this indicates to others
that it’s been checked as they don’t generally die with their legs in
the air. Animals with painted crosses have already been checked.
Check if she has a pouch and if there is a joey.
If she has and you can get help/advice do so
If not gently remove the joey .
If attached to a teat and mum is dead cut teat rather than yank mouth
Wrap joey in natural fibre-wool, cotton, hemp, linen and keep at your
body temperature Get advice
Don’t attempt to feed or give fluids before you get advice
Call a vet, wildlife refuge, rescue group or local wombat rescuer.
Joey Rescue
Small joey being removed gently wriggling and carefully manipulating the females pouch. Small joey often can
be removed from pouch without cutting. It may be necessary to cut mum’s teat rather than pull it from her joey’s
mouth and damaging the mouth. Scoop the joey out gently and have its bags and liners nearby.
Wombat joeys can live for many days in their
mother’s pouches after the female is killed. If you
are involved in a motor vehicle accident with a
wombat it is unlikely that the adult will survive
BUT IT IS VERY LIKELY THAT THE JOEY WILL.
It’s a boy!!
Rub the bag you will put the joey in around mum’s
pouch so he has the comfort of her smell.
Cut pouch ligament and
muscle sowing that this
process is bloodless
Bigger more developed joeys are easier to see in the pouch
It can be quite a challenge to remove a joey from mums pouch. Often
it’s easier if you turn Mum on her side. Once you have cut the band of
muscle around the pouch will release and allow you to scoop the joey
out Give the joey a quick inspection to ensure that there aren’t any
obvious injuries.
Place him somewhere warm often down your front, provides a slow gentle warmth. Joeys must never be placed on anything
warmer than your body temperature. And get them to an experienced
carer as soon as possible. Do not try and feed joey, (they don’t drink
cows milk!) as it could end up in the lungs and it will die. Warmth is
the first priority.
RENDERING ASSISTANCE TO AN INJURED WOMBAT
At the roadside when you, your vehicle and passengers and
the wombat are safe assess the situation. Put the wombat on its side
or back and check if there is a bulge or any obvious signs of a joey in
the pouch.
The pouch is found in the stomach towards the back legs in
the middle and will be quite obvious. If the pouch is empty and a long
teat protrudes, the wombat had a joey at foot still suckling and YOU
MUST NOTIFY a rescue organization so they can attempt to find the
joey even when the mother is dead. If the wombat is a female and her
teats are small, she has no joey.
If the wombat is an adult and still alive the best course of
action is to cover him or her with a blanket or cloth and keep him or
her as quiet and dark as possible. If you can , call a rescue organization from where you are and remain with the animal until a rescuer
reaches you. If you need to leave the animal to make the phone call
make sure you take details of exactly where the animal is, set your
vehicle’s killometer meter and WRITE IT DOWN.
You will think you will remember but you probably
won’t. Rescue organizations have great difficulty
locating injured animals in Australia’s vast road
system.
Veterinarians Australia wide are mandated to
assist injured wombats and usually provide their
treatment free of charge. In addition Veterinarians
are a good source of knowledge regarding local
organizations and appropriate carers.
Wombats and fencing
Yes Bare nosed wombats can climb!
Wombats are creatures of habit and will use the same track that they have created on a daily basis. If a wombat finds an obstruction in the way of it’s path it will not go around it - it will remove it! This often results in damaged fences where the wombat digs
under or even pushes through the fence. Wombats are incredibly determined animals and it doesn’t matter how often you try to
barricade their pathway they will not rest until they have made their way through again. Providing a wombat gate is the best way
to solve this problem. The gate needs to be solid and strong so that other animals (that don’t have the strength of a wombat) can’t
get through it; for example fox’s , rabbits, wallabies etc. Gates can be installed in fence lines or even in farm gates. Below is a
cheap (made from found items around the farm) simple, easy to manufacture and install design. Use wither star posts wired or
bolted together or water-pipe welded at the top joint,. Either use eye-bolts into the top of some old hard wood that you have nailed
together with scrap metal to stabilise it. Or some steel strapping over the water pipe also acts as a hinge. Weight at around 3kg to
stop wallabies, foxes and rabbits, you can nail on extra wood to increase weight if needed.
Electric fencing
Stand off Electric fencing is quite effective for wombats. Keep the lowest wire as close to
ground as possible about 15 cm but higher where echidnas may be caught.
You need top place the wombat gate in
Wombat path. Fill in hole under fence, and use
wire mesh, (chicken wire) attached to bottom of
fence extending at least 50 cm in each direction
to prevent digging.
In this situation gate
is tensioned into fence
line, after it has ben
hammered into the
ground. So you will just
need to put a tension
wire below the wire
skirt across the bottom
legs of the gate.
Counter-intuitively ,soft mesh makes it hard for wombats to get a purchase to dig and shade mesh or similar soft
mesh will usually deter a wombat digging around difficult to fence places like water tanks. It may deter a wombat from
building a new burrow but is not effective as a deterrent to stop them entering an existing residential burrow. The
most effective method of managing a burrow in a place where it shouldn’t be is to wait until the wombat has moved to
another burrow and de-commission it then. The bare nosed wombats in N.S.W., Victoria and Tasmania use a number
of burrows according to weather conditions so there will be times when they are not in residence. Placing sticks or a
sheet of cardboard near the burrow entrance or using sand or similar to check tracks will give an indication of whether
the burrow is currently in use. It is not true that all burrows in use will have entrances cleared of leaves and other
debris, many a well used burrow requires the wombat to walk over piles of sticks, stones and fallen debris. While some
wombats are fastidious and clear away anything from their burrow entries, others are happy to leave their entries littered. Scats may be found near to some active burrows ,however some wombats travel significant distances from their
burrows and make a toileting place so presence or absence of scats is not a definite indicator of burrow use either.
here a wombat simply lifts the wire with it’s teeth
Gate use demonstration
infra red camera
The incorrect belief that wombats are like rodents or moles
leads to the incorrect assumption that wombats will undermine all
farmland. Wombat burrows are built and used by successive generations of wombats and the suitability and availability of burrows may
have an impact on breeding numbers. Destroying long standing burrows increases local burrow building activity as a number of wombats
may use a particular burrow which, if destroyed may lead to a number
of wombats digging two or three new burrows to compensate for the
destruction of their “safety point” .
Burrows are spread throughout a wombat’s grazing range so it
can bolt to a burrow from anywhere within its range. Destruction of well
established burrows probably leads to an increase in burrow digging
activity, where leaving established burrows will most likely see any additional digging restricted to the existing burrow complex.
The lack of rigidity makes it difficult for
the wombat to get purchase to dig or
pull up the fencing. However... wombats are highly intelligent and where
there’s a will there’s a way.
Wombat Protection Society of Australia
Telephone: 02 6493 8245
E-Mail info@wombatprotection.org.au
Mail P.O. Box 6045 QUAAMA N.S.W 2550. Australia
CONTACTS
Amanda Cox Public Officer
Jan Smith Director
Wombat Protection Society of Australia 02 64 938245
ABN: 33 122 449 665 Approved Environmental Organisation
Registration effectiveJuly 5th 2007 as a DGR organisation
able to receipt tax deductible donations.